High-quality attachment of plasterboard is a pledge of a long service life. How to mount a profile under drywall and what dowel nails fastening suspended plates for drywall

September 28, 2016
Specialization: Master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, finishing of facades, installation of electricians, plumbing and heating - for all types of work I can give detailed consultation.

During its activities, I had to work very much with drywall and build a wide variety of designs. When building a frame from how firmly the connection of profiles is made, the reliability of the structure depends. This work can be done in different ways, sometimes you can use the best option, and sometimes proceed from the current situation and use what is at hand.

We will deal with what options for working can be used and what you need to pay special attention to achieve the best result. All technology is simple in implementation and do not require any special skills, the main thing is to have at hand everything you need and implement the recommendations set out below.

Technology No. 1 - the use of special elements

Modern manufacturers produce a number of components for mounting metal frameworks from metal products. Special connections for profile for drywall can have different configurations, I will talk about the most popular and convenient of them. Information is presented in the form of a table so that you can better figure it out.

product name	Appointment and design features
Profile Extension	Used to eliminate the main (60x27) profile and is a special insert that accurately combines the elements between themselves and strengthens the connection location. Products are made of galvanized metal, the thickness of which should be at least 0.9 mm, for convenience of combination, in the middle can be a special protrusion in which the ends of the profile
Connector single-level "crab"	It is it that is shown in the photo above, this option is used to connect the main profile in the same plane. The design is such that the installation is performed quickly and securely, you do not need to be perfectly customized elements, they are simply inserted into the crab and fixed with the help of screws. Products must be rigid enough, because there is a considerable load on them
Two-level connector	If you need to connect two profiles with each other, which are located one below the other, then this item will be the best solution. With it, the design is quickly going and the high reliability of fixation is achieved. Such options in private buildings are used infrequently, however, their convenience is indisputable
Side connector	And this type of product and alternately to our developers at all. But with it, it is easier to make T-shaped connections at times easier and faster, so I recommend using such connectors if you need to bind two perpendicular profiles

To accurately calculate the required amount of fasteners, the easiest way to make a sketch of the future frame and draw all its elements. It is so much easier to deal with how much and what fastener will need, and you do not have to go to buy products several times or think how to return the remnants to the seller.

Required materials and adaptations

Now we'll figure it out how to combine the profile for drywall with the help of all the items described above.

In addition to the fasteners, we will need additional materials and tools:

Self-tapping screws, in one of the previous reviews, I described in detail about the main types and their features. Here only let the recommendation use bugs (so-called small screws specialists) with a sharp tip of 9 or 11 mm long, the coating can be any, it does not affect product quality. As for the quantity, the norm is 20-25 pieces per square meter of construction, in fact it usually leaves this way;

Screwing the screws is made using a screwdriver with a special nozzle. All methization drywall used during installation have a head under the slot of pH2, so buy several bits of this size, they may differ in length, it is most convenient for it to work with a snap-in 50 mm long, and for hard-to-reach places you may need a larger length option;

When connecting profiles, they most often need to cut them, so take care in advance that the scissors for metal should be at hand. The easiest option is suitable, if only the tool was sharp.

Installation of extension centers

Instructions for working for each type of fasteners are different, we will analyze these options separately and begin with considering how to lengthen the rack profile for drywall:

When building racks, strength and geometric accuracy are of particular importance, which is why be sure to use extension cords. If there are several options on sale, then choose one that is made of a thicker metal and on the sides of which there are protrusions. Thanks to them, the profile will be combined exactly in the middle of the fastener;

First of all, you need to carry out measurements to determine the length of the fastened elements. Next, cutting is made, for this, the profile is placed using a roulette and a marker, after which the scissors for metal cuts the product. From the total length of the element that should turn out, take 10-15 mm to simplify further work;
We'll now understand how to lengthen the profile: first the connector is inserted into the end of one of the profiles, after which the second piece is installed on the other side. The node should be tightly, if it is hanging, then the strength will suffer very much. When you were convinced that the rack is flat, the compound must be fixed, twisted two screws on each side to ensure maximum reliability;

Installation of crabs

We figured out how to build a profile, now consider how to attach jumpers to the rack using the crab, the technology of work of work with your own hands is:

First of all, it is necessary to carry out measurements in order to determine the length of all bonded elements. At the same time, the size of the crossing should be 5 mm less than the total length, it is necessary so that they normally fit in the design and were not deformed in it;
The connector is inserted into the main rack from the reverse side, it is simple, because the product is adjusted for the size of the profile. It is important to arrange it at the desired level and snap until it stops so that the element is located as tight as possible;

Then the jumper is inserted from one side, this is done simply: the profile is assigned to the side and snaps onto the mount, if necessary, it needs to be densely moved to the rack so that the gap between the elements is minimal;

On each side there are protrusions with holes, they will bend by profile, after which they are tightened with self-tapping screws. Everything is quite simple and fast, so after fixing one crab you will be perfectly able to understand this type of work;

The second side is fixed in the same way. If you use a crap with a crab with a jumper on one side, then you can simply be cut off with scissors for metal.

Installation of duplex connectors

The two-level connector is necessary in cases where you need to connect two main profiles located in each other or collect a complex design.

The element itself is a holder, at the bottom of which the protrusions are located in the profile grooves, it is they who hold the racks, no additional fastener applies. At the top there are fixators that are snapped into the protrusions of the upper profile frames and do not give the node to move.

Installation process is simple enough:

The connector is inserted into the upper profile in the desired place, it is exactly suitable in size, so it will stay tightly;
The lower profile must be inserted so that the protrusions go into the bend of the side, due to this design will be kept, so it is worth checking each connection to reliability, whether everything is located as it is necessary. If desired, the fasteners can be attached to the upper profile through the holes in the connector.

Installation of lateral connectors

This type of fastener is ideal for attaching jumpers on the frame on one side. It is most often used in multi-level ceiling systems and on the frames of the frame to the walls. The connector is a product that is inserted with one side into the end of the profile, and the second clings to the side of the profile located perpendicularly.

We will deal with how to use this item:

First of all, it is necessary to carry out measurements to cut off the pieces of the profile of the desired length, they must be 5 mm less than the total distance;
Fastening until the stop is inserted into the end of the profile, which we will attach, sometimes in order to do this, you need to make a considerable effort;
Next, the prepared element is simply hanging on the side of the rack, the indicator of what you did everything right is the smooth arrangement of profiles relative to each other. There is a protrusion on the hook, which comes over the side and thus fixes the fastening;

If you wish, you can screw several screws into the sides through the profile and the connector and the end of the rack through the hole in the fastener. This will eliminate the disconnection of the node under loads.

Technology №2 - Fastening with self-tapping screws

If I say that this option is used most often, it is unlikely to be mistaken. After all, this method does not assume the presence of some special elements or fasteners, it is used that it is at hand. Plus such a solution in its simplicity, minus is that the strength of the compounds is not so high as when using the options described above.

This technology is suitable for structures that are not particularly load. Also, this option is relevant when assembling frames from a rack and non-standard profile, under these materials find components difficult, and sometimes only considered in this chapter can help solve the problem.

Necessary materials and tools

Everything is very simple, since we will use what and so must be at hand when the framework is struggling:

The profile itself, from which we will make a frame. In some cases, we will cut it off, and in some mounted as it is;
Self-tapping screws with a sharp tip - Never buy hardware with a drill that you can tell sellers if they claim that this option is better, it means that they never collected frames;
Scissors for metal will be needed to fit the elements, in some cases there will have to cut a lot, so it is better to have a convenient tool at hand;

Purchase scissors for curly cutting of metal, they differ in that the working part of the hurry and the handles are located on top. When working, you will not scratch about the edge of the profile, and it is much more convenient to cut this option.

The screwdriver with the nozzles of the desired configuration also must be present, if you do everything with your hands, then you will get tired very quickly.

Connection profile without cutting

This option is characterized by simplicity, and is used when attaching the main profile to the guide, as well as when fixing the angular connections. We'll figure it out how to connect elements with your own hands:

First you need to fix the guide elements to the wall and the ceiling, after which the main profile is inserted into them. Product sizes are made with such a calculation so that they are perfectly combined, and the rack tightly kept in the willed elements;

Next, it is necessary to twist 2-3 screws through the profile wall so that they securely fixed the element in the desired position. In the process of working when twisting the first self-pressing, one hand hold the connection to one hand, since the profile can move, further when the node is fixed, do not keep anything;

If you need to make an angular connection, then two parts should be combined at a right angle, then twisted by the diagonal diagonally diagonally. It is better if the fastening is made on both sides, but one can limit and one if access to the other is not possible;

If you want the angles to be stronger, then you can make a connection, having cutting the profile side and bending it at right angles without cutting the base.

I would like to make one important note: I categorically do not recommend increasing the profile in the length. By inserting them into each other, or even strengthening another piece of profile, you will not achieve the required hardness, and the geometry of such jacks most often leaves much to be desired.

Connection with profile clipping

We'll figure it out how to bore the elements among themselves if they do not connect in any way, the technology looks like this:

First you need to perform measurements, it should be remembered that the length of the pieces of the profile, which we will be attached, should be greater, as the ends will be killed in order to attach them to the racks. The length should be more on each side by 3-4 cm, you can cut off unnecessary without any problems and then;
If the load on the design is not, then you can cut the sides and leave the base that the profile enters and through which the mount will be performed. Everything is very simple here, and if something is unclear to you, just look at the photo below, all questions will immediately disappear;

If you need to make jumpers or enhance the opening, then you can harden the profile as shown in the diagram below. Plus this solution is that it is possible to encourage a profile in any convenient side to you, after which the element is inserted into place and fixed on the frame. Angle of the outbreak - 45 degrees;

If you need a complete connection, then you can combine two options for fasteners. For example, use crabs and additionally twist the profile. This option is shown below, and it distinguishes the highest reliability, I advise you to use this decision to those who are going to hang on the ceiling of heavy wall plasterboard.

Strengthened jumper mount

If you need to achieve reliability of jumpers in wall and ceiling structures, you can use another interesting version of the work. For him, you need to have a few extra guide profiles at hand.

The workflow is simple enough:

To begin with, the guide profile cuts into pieces of about 10 centimeters long, they will be put on both sides of the jumpers, that is, there must be twice as more than ribs;
The elements prepared in this way are attached to the side of the racks at the desired level and are screwed with 2-3 metal screws. That is, we get additional grooves under the main profile, thanks to which the design will acquire additional rigidity;

In the thus prepared guides, the jumper itself is inserted and is screwed with the front side of the metal screws. This option requires an additional consumption of the guide profile, but if there is no crab at hand, such a solution will ensure that no less reliability of the structure will provide.

Technology №3 - Fastening a profile using a broker

There is a special tool for connecting profiles for drywall, it is called a barbecue and is used for mostly by professionals. This is due to the fact that the price for the strong-quality option begins from one and a half thousand rubles, buying it on the apartment repair is not very reasonable, but if you are going to constantly engage in such works, I advise you to consider this decision.

Plus such a tool is that no screws are required for work, the device extends two profiles, flexing the metal from the inside, thereby reliably fixing two profiles, it is shown below what the connection looks like.

The minus of the barbecue is that by virtue of its design, it can be used far from everywhere, so without a screwdriver and self-sustains, it will not be possible to do in any case. Consider the most popular design of the tool so that you can figure out how it works:

The basis of the structure is a fixed lever, at the end of which the bracket is located with the focus, this is the main workshop;
The metal barns a special pass, which moves due to the pressure of the movable lever. In order for the tool to be smooth, pressure on the brook is made through the roller, a system with two axes is obtained, thanks to which to use a tool is much easier.

Now we'll figure it out how to connect a profile with the help of this tool, all the technology is simple, and it will not be mastered by any person:

To begin with, you need to prepare a profile, for this it cuts into pieces of desired size. I advise you to pre-check whether everything climbs, and it is well combined by the parts between themselves, so you can eliminate problems if they are presented and not distracted while working;
Next, you need to clearly combine the connected elements among themselves. Pay the most close attention to this aspect, since if you make a mistake, then it will be difficult to correct the position, it is not a self-tapping screw, which can be turned off, the sparkler keeps firmly, and to separate it, you will have to spoil the profile;
In the barn, the handles are made as much as possible, after which the displacement is exhibited where you need to make a bump. Usually the mount is made at several points, so think in advance how it is better to have a tool to ensure maximum reliability of the connection;

When everything is located as it should, you need to carefully, but strongly press on the handle of the barn and thus connect the structural elements. Next, the tool is set in other places, and the work is made in the same way as long as you do the desired number of connections.

Output

We dealt with different versions of the work, and what to fasten the frame in your home, to solve you. All the above techniques meet all strength requirements if they are made correctly. The video in this article will help to better understand some important nuances of individual technologies, and if something is not clear to you, then write questions in the comments under the review.

You can create a variety of elements and structures. The reliability of all structural elements depends on how profiles are fastened with each other. You can perform this work in several ways. There are proven and reliable, which are used in most cases, but sometimes you can use both infirred materials.
Existing options for connecting a profile among themselves

Consider how to connect profiles for drywall between themselves correctly, and which nuances need to be considered when. Technologies are simple, and therefore, make the connection of profiles with your own hands easily, the main thing is to prepare all the necessary materials and.

The market has many designs that are produced to connect profile parts with.

Example of crab connection profiles

Connectors may have a different view and configuration, but there are the most popular, which we will look at, make it in the form of a table for convenience:

Extension glands	Apply to the 60x27 profile is a special insert that can connect elements with an accuracy of a millimeter, they are subsequently screwed. Elements are made of galvanized steel, in the middle there is a special recess that helps the ends of the profile tightly lay down to each other.
"Crab" - single-level connector	Used to clutch profile elements at one level. Such is that you can connect profiles from four sides - it is very convenient when mounting the transverse jumpers. In this case, the installation takes place easily, quickly and it turns out reliable. Products are made of tempered galvanized steel, there are a considerable load on them. Used to clutch profile elements at one level. The design of the crab is such that you can connect profiles from four sides. It is very convenient when installing transverse jumpers. In this case, the installation takes place easily, quickly and it turns out reliable. Products are made of tempered galvanized steel, there is a considerable load on them.
Two-tier connector	This element is used if you need to secure profiles located above each other. With the help of this element, assemble a two-level design will not be difficult, with it will be very reliable. It is mostly used by professional developers, private traders are rarely used, but this is a convenient element possessing a lot of advantages.
Side connector	An unfamiliar element that is practically not used, but to connect the items with its use is very simple. It is intended for connecting two perpendicular elements.

Arched profiles

Separate consideration deserve arched profiles PA. Special elements are needed to create curved surfaces and door arches from drywall. For this purpose, special arched profiles are produced. They are carriers or guide frame elements that allow the formation of the structures of the curved form. Some manufacturers offer ready-made curved parts for suspended ceilings. There are two main types of arched profile:

The metal profile has good strength and is used to create ceiling frames and arches.
The plastic profile has less durability than metal products, but easily bends. It is used to harden the edges of the arch and protecting drywall from chipping.

Arched profile dimensions: width - 62 mm, height - 27 mm, length from 3 to 4 m, minimal inner bending radius - 500 mm, minimal outer bending radius - 1000 mm.

Additional elements of the carcass

When assembling the carcass, not only profile is required. Details are needed to fasten the elements of the structure between themselves and carriage surfaces. Such parts belong to the category of additional elements:

The extension is designed to increase the length of PP profiles.
A single-level connector (crab) allows you to stick to the PP profiles at right angles, at one level.
The two-tier connector (butterfly) bonds PP profiles at different levels, providing stiffness of the structure.
The angular connector provides the creation of reliable T - shapes of PP profiles at the same level.
Longitudinal brackets are used to sprout by PP profiles, to increase their length.

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Fasteners for plasterboard structures

Several types of fasteners are used to connect the details of plasterboard structures:

Samores with a small step of thread (TN) and a 25 mm long fastening a plasterboard sheet to the surfaces of a metal frame. When weaving in several layers, tn self-tapes are used, 35-40 mm long. To fasten the drywall to the base of the tree, the screws on a tree 35-40 mm are used.
To attach direct suspensions, lengthening and compounds of different types of profile, screws are used with a drill (LB) or piercing self-tapping screws (LN) with a length of 9.11 and 16 mm. These self-tapping screws are high, which interferes with the dense fit of the sheets of plasterboard.
Self-tapping screws with piles make it possible to use them with any materials. They are produced in two versions - drilling either piercing. The most used size of the screws from 14 to 16 mm.
Self-tapes with plastic dowels are used for attaching guide profiles. They securely fasten the frame elements to brick or concrete surfaces.
Anchor - wedge is used for attachment in the surface of the ceiling anchor suspensions. Anchor - a metal wedge has a long service life and is not subject to corrosion.

How to choose high-quality profile and fasteners

The reliability and safety of the design of plasterboard is provided by high-quality elements. When choosing a profile, the focus should be paid to its rigidity and weight. The profile made of material, less than 0.55 mm thick, should not be purchased. Non-quality parts made of fine metal sheets are easily bent, twisted and savage under their own weight. Use such components to assemble the frame of the frame is unsafe. In addition, it is impossible to screw the screws into a thin metal, they will not hold on it. Profiles are made of galvanized metal and rust traces on their surface will indicate poor-quality coating.

Twisted and poorly laminated profile also indicates low quality quality. The dimensions of the elements must accurately comply with generally accepted standards. Failure to follow this requirement will not allow the assembly of a smooth frame and entail his re-alteration. The surface of the profile must have a frequent deep notch, which will provide a slight screwing in it with screws. In addition, it should not be acquired profiles with a poorly treated surface - it can cause dangerous injuries to workers.

By purchasing fasteners, it is also necessary to check the quality of its manufacture. In a pack with self-draws, screws with metal residues, without thread, and also with poorly sliced \u200b\u200bslots on the head are not present. Such a marriage will not allow the use of self-directed self-directed.

Plastic jams of dowels must have a smooth surface, without influx. Reflectively manufactured plastic parts are not able to ensure the strength of the compounds.

Cost of elements for plasterboard systems

Prices for individual components of elements of plasterboard systems depend on the quality, material manufacturing material and manufacturer. PP profile prices differ from 75 to 150 rubles. a piece. The cost of the PN and PS profile on average is 35 - 40 rubles. a piece. The price of fasteners depends on its length and type. It ranges from 5 to 50 kopecks. For one self-tapping screw.

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 3 minutes

Designs made of drywall are very often used when repairing apartments. Many owners strive to save on the services of professionals and try to mount themselves. In order not to disappoint in the final result, you need to know how to fix the profile for plasterboard to the wall. After all, not only the appearance, but also the durability of the design will depend on the quality of the frame.

Frequently used types of metal products

When attaching drywall on the walls and the ceiling, appropriate metal profiles are used:

PS - racking;
Mon - Profile guide;
PP - ceiling;
PPN - guide ceiling.

Surface markup

Important and painstaking stage. The appearance of the entire structure will depend on the thoroughness of the markup. Incorrectly exposed metal photographs can immediately be invisible, but will definitely manifest after the completion of work.

On the wall surface, the most protruding point is searched. The distance from it to the inside of the plasterboard should be no less than the width of the metal used.
On the floor, a line is conducted, denoting the outer boundary of the guide profile.
With the help of a plumb, this line is transferred to the ceiling. Such marking is required when attaching drywall to the wall to the profile, since it is necessary to obtain a single plane.
On the wall there is a markup to install rack profiles. Sheet of plasterboard has a width of 1200 mm. They should be kept on the surface of metal products, so each sheet should be screwed to 3 or 4 racks. Accordingly, the step between the frame elements of the frame should be 40 or 60 cm. The extreme racks are located along the edges of the wall, and it is counting. In most cases, one preference is preferred with three profiles on the sheet: two along the edges and one in the middle.
On the lines denoting the center of vertical profiles, after every 60 cm, there are places for the installation of direct suspensions.
Places places for horizontal jumpers and suspensions for their mounting.

Mounting profile to the wall

Rooms in the apartment, and accordingly, the walls can be different: differ in size, the curvature of the surface or the availability of windows. In each case, the algorithm will be their algorithm for fastening the plasterboard, but the general rules will remain unchanged. Consider the easiest option - leveling the wall without windows.

Start the installation of the profile under the plasterboard with their own hands from the installation of the guides on the floor and the ceiling. Before this, on the surface of metal products adjacent to the floor or ceiling, paste. The algorithm for further actions is:

Secure the lower guide on the wooden floor with the help of self-tapping screws. In the ceiling or concrete floor surface, the perforator drill holes and fasten the guides on the dowel-nail. Usually in profiles there are already ready-made holes, but they can be made independently with a step of 25-30 cm.
With the help of dowel-nails, direct suspensions are mounted. Their "wings" are bend in the form of the letter "P". With their help in the future we will set vertical racks.
Vertical profiles are inserted into guides.

It is better to connect the elements of the crate, using: the heads of small screws in the metal (they are also called "fleas", "bugs" or "seeds") may interfere with the dense fit of the GLC to the frame.

"Clapses" racks are attached to the suspensions.

In order to set all the racks in the same plane, do this: set two extreme profiles by controlling their deviation or plumbing. Then between them stretch 3-4 kapron threads. They carry out the installation of other racks.

In the suspension there are a number of holes for self-tapping screws, with which it is easy to achieve the necessary position of metal products. After that, the "wings" of the suspensions gently bent into the sides so that they do not interfere with the further installation of GLC.

In places of horizontal joints are made crossbars. They are attached to the suspensions, and the side walls are cut off with vertical racks at the profile. Another option is to use a single-level "crab" type connector.
After mounting the frame, check again, whether all the elements are in the same plane. It is much easier to fix the flaws at this stage than after mounting the plasterboard.

We will not be able to make up and maintain profiles with dimensions. After fastening the plasterboard and its high-quality putty, the joints of the sheets will not be visible. Especially if there is some finishing coating, such as wallpaper. Hope for your memory or on the label on the wall is not worth it: who knows when there is a desire to fasten the lamp on the wall, a mirror or shelf? By this time, the labels will definitely be eliminated, and get into the profile, wanting to make a mount, for example, a "butterfly" dowel will be very unpleasant.
With an insufficient length of the profile, it can be increasing. You can connect the products "Vansel" or "Jack". In the second case, an additional piece of profile is used or its role plays a guide end. The location of the connection is fixed on the sides of self-pressing, which will not interfere with the dense fit of the leaf of plasterboard to the frame.

October 22, 2016
Specialization: Master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, finishing of facades, installation of electricians, plumbing and heating - for all types of work I can give detailed consultation.

From how correctly the installation of profiles is carried out, the strength and appearance of the wall depends. If everything is done in high quality, in the end you will get a perfectly flat surface that is easy to separate and which will be distinguished by reliability and durability. I will describe the workflow in the smallest details so that you can figure it out as best as possible.

Profile Mounting Technology

We will not reflect on the advantages and minuses of this option, they are so well known, and immediately begin to consider the workflow. To begin with, we will understand with its main stages, and that everything is most clearly and clearly, I made a small scheme.

Step 1 - Surface Marking

To get the perfect wall, you need to build a smooth frame. That is why, first of all, we need to decline the plane of the future wall, and the markup will be carried out on the floor, the ceiling and adjacent walls, and not on the surface of the surface, because the frame is located with an indentation.

For work, you need the following set of devices:

Two construction plumbing;

Construction cord or fishing line;
Dowel or nails for fastening (depends on the type of base);
Rule with the level;
Pencil or chalk for marking.

Now we will analyze the workflow in detail, since if you make mistakes at this stage, then your wall will learn the curve. The instructions for carrying out work looks like this:

First of all, it is necessary to determine the most advantageous place on the wall plane, we cannot fall below it, so it is important to initially determine the starting point. Next, you can simply keep a plumb to make a label on the floor and the ceiling, and then retreat at least 3 cm so that you can place the profile and consolidate it with direct suspensions;
At the edges of the wall you need to fasten the plumbing to create vertical benchmarks, for this you need to fix a nail or dowel in the ceiling, after which it is to suspend the design so that the tip of the weight of the vehicle does not condemn the floor surface. To the rope or fishing line, on which the cargo hangs, no elements should be touched, otherwise the vertical will be distorted;

Then the cord or fishing line is stretched horizontally in such a way that the thread slightly comes into contact with the fishing line on the plumb. It is necessary to make three horizontal - on top, from below, and in the middle, it will be an excellent guideline and will allow you to make a markup as quickly as possible and most accurately;
Using a long level, rules or even ruler, you can apply labels on the wall every half meter. You must pass throughout the perimeter and gently place the surface;

Do not forget to check the retreat from the wall in the playful place, it is important that the framework does not rest in the installation in the surface.

References and construction cord are cleaned, after which you can delay the line throughout the perimeter. For this type of work, you can use any convenient tool to you: from pencil or chalk to a special construction shoelace. The lace is stretched along the surface, after which it is delayed from it and is released, resulting in a clear and smooth line;

If you have a laser level, you can spend the process much faster and easier, because this device can very accurately and quickly spend vertical and horizontally on the surface. Of course, to work with your own hands, you will have to get acquainted with the instructions or at least consult with a specialist.

Stage 2 - Fastening the Guide Profile

When your surface is marked, you can start by the next part of the work - fastening the guide profile, which is marked by Mon or UD and has dimensions 27x28 mm. The elements are made of leaf steel with a thickness of 0.4-0.7 mm, for work, take options for at least 0.5 mm.

To perform work, you need a whole set of materials and devices:

Instruments	Description
Profile featured	The quantity is simply determined: you need to add the length of all surfaces on which the profile will fit. Naturally, it is always worth taking with a slight margin, because in the process there may be waste
Fastener	For fastening a profile to wooden bases, screws are used with a length of 25 mm, and if you have a wall of concrete or brick, it is best to apply a dowel-nails 6x40 mm
Perforator or screwdrut	When using a dowel-nail you need to pre-drill holes, and if you work with screws, it is easier to twist them and faster with a screwdriver
Scissors for metal	Cut the profile on the pieces of the desired size is the easiest way with the help of conventional metal scissors. If you do not have them, it is easiest to buy the simplest option, especially since the price is low, and the scissors will serve you for many more years

If everything is needed at hand, you can proceed to work:

To begin, it is necessary to attach a profile over the line (it can pass both with outdoor, and from the inside of the profile, everything depends on what is convenient for you) and place the locations of the drilling holes for fasteners. Dowel should be located in increments of 40-60 cm, it all depends on the strength of the base. If there are no holes in the profile, then drill them yourself, the screwdriver will cope with this work;
The drilling of the holes is performed using a boraner with a long working part of at least 50 mm. If you have a longer element, then to see a landmark when working, I advise you to stick a tape or raw tape on the car, so you will constantly control the right depth, and you will not be constantly distracted by this aspect;

Fastening the profile to the wall under plasterboard occurs very quickly. If the screws are used, then they are simply screwed into the surface, and if a plastic plug is inserted into the hole in the hole, and the shock screw is clogged. Naturally, the element must be fixed in tight;

The next piece can be connected using the edges, but I usually simply have the items and fasten them. The guide profile is not intended for high loads, so you do not need to fasten it, do not listen to those who claim the opposite, the stiffness of the structure is ensured by completely different elements;
The profile cutting is carried out very easily: measurements are performed, after which the profile is placed using a marker. Then you need to cut the side walls to the metal to the base, after which the element and cut it to the end;

If you enhance the walls adjacent to each other and want to strengthen the angular connection, then at the assembly stage of the guide design in the corner, two main profiles are fixed as shown in the photo below. Such a system is much stronger than standard options.

The system is attached throughout the perimeter, the main thing is that all the profile is located along the line, since the plane of the future wall depends on them, any miscalculations will lead to a variety of problems in the future.

Stage 3 - Installation of vertical racks

It is from this part of the design directly dependent on the plane, and the strength of the future wall, so I advise you to pay special attention to this stage. To begin with, it is necessary to deal with what will be needed during the work:

The main profile that is marked with PS, PP or CD and has dimensions of 27x60 mm. That is, these elements are tightly inserted into the guide frame and create an excellent base for the subsequent attachment of the plasterboard. It is better to choose products made of metal at least 0.5 mm, pay attention to the quality of the coating: zinc must lie with a flat layer without divorce and unlocked sections;

Direct suspensions - with their help, you can very quickly and quite accurately set the position of the element and consolidate it. Most often, products have a length of about 300 mm and look like shown in the photo below. It is also important to choose a variant made of durable metal;

The mounting of the suspensions for drywall is made using a fast installation dowels, and the profile itself is connected to special self-drawers, which builders call bugs or seeds. Their size and configuration can be different, the main thing is that the fasteners have a small thread step for solid profile fixation;

A screwdriver is needed from the power tool to twist the screws and the perforator for drilling holes. Naturally, if you have a wooden base, then only a screwdriver is needed;
Construction cord or fishing line will make it possible to make landmarks that simplify the workflow, but the level also need to be at hand to control the plane;
Marking is performed using a roulette and pencil or a marker, and all the same scissors for metal will be used for cutting.

Installation of the profile for plasterboard on the wall begins with measuring work:

First of all, it is necessary to conduct a preliminary markup, for this, 120 cm is measured from the edge of the wall (the width of the plasterboard) and the label is installed on the floor. Thus, the entire plane is placed so that you see where the junctions between the sheets will be located. If there are window or doorways, then they need to have sheets so that the joint does not pass along the edge of the opening, since in this case the risk of cracks is very large;

Next you need to spend another line in the middle, there will be the ribs of stiffness, which will make the wall much stronger and allow to fix the plasterboard tougher. If you have a surface to be closed with two layers of drywall, then both rows will be carrying and set them down with all thoroughness;

To transfer labels from the floor to the ceiling and make lines on the wall, the easiest way to take a plumb and put it so that the tip looks at the label. The point is the point, you can also put several labels on the wall. After using the rule or long rail, the vertical lines are drawn, everything is very simple.

When you clearly place the position of future racks, you can start on the installation:

First of all, you need to measure the length of the profile that will be installed. The standard length of the elements is 3 meters, so they need to cut it most often, there is one nuance: the profile must be 10 mm shorter than the total height from the floor to the ceiling, this will allow you to freely place it in the guides;
Cut is done like this: first the markup is made, it is better to spend the line from all sides to see a clear guideline. The lateral sides are cut, the profile is driving and the inflection is cut to the end, everything is very simple and most importantly - to observe accuracy and will not be lit on the sharp protrusions of the metal;
The following important operation is the fastening of the suspensions, they are located on vertical lines or labels perpendicular to the profile and are set so that the middle of the element occurs on the markup. Each suspension is fixed with two dowels or self-pressing, the position of the elements of 40-60 cm, the more often they will be located, the hardness it turns out the wall, remember this;

Next, an extreme profile is inserted and located along the line, after that you can beat the suspensions so that they pressed to the rack. Using a level, the plane is checked and exposed to the optimal position. Then the screwdriver is taken, the profile is screwed by self-assemblies-clouds, after the end of the work, the extra ends of the suspension are rejected to the sides, you do not need to cut off;

First of all, it is best to set and fix two extreme racks, after which it will stretch between them the cord from above and below, it will simplify the further work, because you will have a plane benchmarks that will be constantly not distracted by checking using a level;
The further process is made in the same way, you need to fix all the racks, after which you can move to the next step. Justice It is worth noting that if there are no openings on the wall and the stiffness of the vertical racks is satisfied with you, then it is not necessary to do alternately. Although I would advise you to strengthen the design with their help.

Stage 4 - installation of horizontal jumpers and strengthening openings

To achieve even greater structural strength, as well as in order to enhance the openings, installation and horizontal jumpers are necessary. Installing the profile for plasterboard on the walls in this case does not imply fastening to the surface, we will fix the elements between vertical racks.

To work, you need the same set as the described above, but additionally may need a cross connector for drywall, which is called "crab" due to its form.

As for the workflow, everything can be held in two ways. We'll figure it out with each of them and begin with an option that provides for the use of crabs:

To begin with, you should purchase the required number of single-level connectors, as elsewhere is called crabs. They are located in increments of 600-650 mm from each other;
In order to place crabs on the same level, I personally pull the cord horizontally, then it can be cut off or tear it off. But you can make marking using the level, here you work as it is more convenient;
The connector snaps into a profile from the inside, after which the side mustaches bend and are screwed to the profile by the balls-clusters. Everything is very simple and most importantly - fix items in the right position;
Then jumpers are cut, their length should be 5 mm less than the distance between the racks. The elements are inserted into the struts from the outside, after which the mustaches are thrown away, and they are also fixed with self-draws. As a result, it turns out a durable and reliable system;

If there are openheads and the connection is made from three sides, part of the crab can simply be cut off with scissors for metal.

As for the second version of the work, it does not need any additional elements for its conduct. The workflow is carried out like this:

The distance measurements are made between the racks, after which the elements are cut 6 cm longer than necessary. It is necessary in order to subsequently make a frame connection without additional nodes;
As for the configuration of the jumpers, there may be two options, in both cases of bending between the side and the base, cuts are made by 30 mm. But then you can either break the sides and obtain the T-shaped element, or cut them off and secure the jumper through the top part. In the photo below, both options are very clearly shown, choose which one is better to you;

Further operations are simple: you need to place the racks to know the position of the crossbar, after which you can proceed to their mount. If you have an option with protruding on the side, then you can edit them through them, it is absolutely necessary to screw the screws at all. I like this way more and seems more reliable, because if necessary, the connection can be strengthened by wrapped the screws and from above.

Output

Making a frame for plasterboard on the wall is not difficult, as it seems most people. Of course, it is necessary to tinker, but you can be sure that you will get the result no worse than that of professionals. The video in this article will tell you additional information and will show clearly important moments of the workflow, but if something is incomprehensible, then write all questions in the comments below.