How to insulate the metal entrance door - we comprehend the basics of skill. Warm the entrance metal door with your own hands how to insulate the iron door with your own hands

In winter, in case of severe frosts, icing, frost or condensate on the inner surface of the door can appear - this indicates a freezing of the inlet metal door. What to do in such a situation? The difference in the temperature on the street and indoors leads to such consequences and speaks of poor thermal insulation doors. Therefore, consider in detail how to insulate the metal door in a private house and an apartment.

Metal itself can not be a heat insulator, i.e. It has a high thermal conductivity coefficient. Cellular cardboard, which is filled with most cheap, in particular Chinese doors also do not cope with the function assigned to it. Yes, and he does not have such a task, he is designed to reduce the weight of the metal door.

In rare cases, the door cloth cavity is filled with insulation, but it is impossible to check its presence in the door of the average price range, so you have to believe the seller for the word, and then think about how to insulate the iron door with your own hands.

Obviously, simple methods like stickers of the sealer around the perimeter of the door leaf can not much in this situation. It requires a more serious approach, in particular, to carry out the insulation of the input metal door for all the rules of thermal insulation work.

Warming input metal door with their own hands

The process begins with the choice of the optimal heat-insulating material, which depends on the effectiveness of insulation and its validity period.

How to insulate a metal door

Types of insulation:

Penophol

Thanks to the reflecting ability of the foil layer, it holds almost everything heat in the room. Used only as an additional material.

Hard insulation

These include foam and expanded polystyrenex (PESEROPLEX). Their advantage in the convenience of installation, a relatively low price. Since it is not hygroscopic, it does not need additional films. This is the only suitable option for installation in a cottage, a rustic or rural house. Indeed, in this case, the door serves as a barrier for low temperatures and wind, which is not observed in apartment buildings, where the door goes into the entrance.

Note. Choosing thermal insulation material, preference to polystrance (polystyrene foam). It is an order of magnificent foam of foam and will provide the doors much more efficient insulation.

Soft insulation

This category includes glass gamble and mineral (basalt) wool. Their difference only in the initial raw material, in its heat insulating characteristics, they are not very different. Minvatu characterizes environmental friendliness, fire safety, the ability to vary the height of laying without additional trim.

Vata is sold in rolls or sheets, which makes it possible to cut out the blanks of the desired dimensions and lay them into the cells formed by the ribbies of the door itself. To provide the desired height (the thickness of the insulation), it is enough just to press the material (press cotton), thermal insulation properties will not be affected.

But, nevertheless, professionals do not advise you to carry out the warming of an iron door with a private house. It can be an acceptable option only if the entrance door is insulated in the apartment, since in this case there is no such big difference in temperatures (in the entrance is much warmer than on the street).

Inflatable insulation

Present polyurethane foam. The spraying makes it possible to fill all the cracks, but is distinguished by a high price.

The thermal insulation of the metal doors of the Lux class is carried out using three types of material: foam (main material), foam (optional), polyurethane foam (filling emptiness rigidity and boxes).

Note: A set of materials that can be found in stores for the insulation of the outer door from the metal is unsuitable, because The insulation is used in them dermantin, foam rubber or syntheps.

Additional materials for thermal insulation doors

liquid nails, hardware, mounting foam - when insulating hard insulation;

film of the hydrobericer, parobacker, scotch - with soft;

sheet DVP, plywood, OSB (for cladding, if the door canvas is intimidate);

decorative finishing material: Dermantin, MDF panels or plastic panels;

sealer (rubber, silicone).

From the instrument you will need: roulette, drill, jigsaw, screwdriver, pencil, stationery knife.

Note. When working with glass, you need to take care of the protection of the respiratory tract, hands and eyes (respirator, gloves, glasses).

Frame device inside the door (rigidity ribs)

After the door leaf will disassemble, it may be that in the cavity of the door there are no stiffeners, then they will need to be done.

To do this, use a metal profile or a corner with dimensions corresponding to the door thickness. Its ubiquitous use is due to the fact that the metal is easier to weld to the metal surface of the door.

However, many masters converge in the opinion that it is better to use a wooden bar, because The tree has a thermal conductivity below. The complexity when working with a bar is that it is difficult to fix it quite reliably and not damage the front layer of the door canvase.

How to insulate a metal entrance door in a private house

The technology of insulation of the steel door from the inside will be described in several stages, in the form of a step-by-step instruction, so that even without experience in construction it was possible to perform their own hands.

the door leaf is removed from the loops. Masters are able to perform work "on weight", but for a beginner it can cause difficulties;

all overhead elements are dismantled. These include: Castle lining, handle, eye;

removes the skin on one of the parties. If the door is collapsible, i.e. It can be opened without a violation of one of the layers, the dismantled plane of the door retissure, and then installed in place. Otherwise, one of the sides of the door (usually internal) is cut, and in the subsequently replaced by a sheet of chipboard and finishing material;

Note. When going to perform the insulation of the Chinese metal door, be prepared for the fact that it will not disassemble it. It will be necessary to simply cut one of the front sides of the canvas and replace it later on the lining of the chipboard sheet.

if the ribs are present inside the door cavity, you can start laying the insulation. Otherwise you need to take care of their arrangement;

formation of internal crate. To do this, first make a frame to which the ribs are mounted. The metal profile is welded, and the timber is mounted by hardware, so that the integrity of the facial coating of the door is not impaired.

Council. It is not recommended to do only longitudinal or transverse frameworks of the frame, it is desirable to use their combination. Especially if we are talking about warming up soft insulation, which have the property to settle (to fall down) during operation.

in the frame cells, the insulation is stacked. When laying, it is necessary to ensure that it completely filled the entire space of the cell, while it corresponded to it in height;

when insulating the foam, it is cut on the blanks of the desired dimensions, liquid nails are applied to the workpiece and glued to the surface of the door. In the presence of cracks, it is recommended to fill them with a mounting foam;

How to insulate the metal door foam - video

when warming with cotton, work is starting with the laying of the film, which should occupy the entire inner door surface and go beyond 150-200 mm. Next, the cotton is cut on a blank by 10-15 mm. More than the sizes of the cell (slightly expanding, the wool will easily fill them with) and put in cells. The wool is then covered with a second layer of film, and the bend from the lower layer of the film, wrapped on the top layer of the film, and rushed with scotch. Thus, the wool is obtained in a case that will be a reliable protection against moisture.

Note. If you do not protect cotton, it wets, and will heat heat, in addition, it will come into contact with the inner surface of the door. And the constant impact of moisture on metal will lead to the fact that sooner or later it is delayed. Moreover, the average door does not have internal corrosion protection.

the insulation is covered with foam (if the door is addressed towards the room) reflective layer in the room;

if the door canvate disassembled without problems, then the second removable part is installed in place, and the insulation of the metal door can be considered completed. But often, it is required to prepare a stipple sheet, which will replace the door dismantled on one side.

For these purposes, a chipboard or plywood plate is used. To prepare the workpiece you need:
transfer the dimensions of the door leaf, including eye and castle;

cut the pattern;

fasten the sheet to the door frame by self-drawing;

eliminate irregularities, discover edges, as well as thicker a little leaf edge.

Note. The fastening of the facing panel is performed from below. Thus, it will be aligned as it is screwed.

the latter is made of decorative upholstery or door casing and installing elements and accessories removed.

The result of the implementation of all works will be a warmed metal door, which will reliably protect the room from heat loss.

Now it can be hung it back on the loop and check the performance of the handles and the lock.

But it is worth noting that the insulation of a metal door only in the area of \u200b\u200bthe doorway is a small part of the possible work on the insulation of doors.

One of the sources of heat loss is a door frame. In most cases, it is a hollow, and therefore perfectly misses heat.

Warming Box Metal Doors

The insulation of the door frame is performed by strangling the mounting foam inside the metal profile.

Make it easy. It is enough to drill holes in the frame profile (not through) at a distance of 400-450 mm. The diameter of the opening is equal to the diameter of the tube from the cylinder with foam. After that, the cylinder tube will start in profile and foam fills free space. Material prepared for WWW.Site site

Note. In the same way, the insulation of metal ribs of stiffness in the door cavity immediately after the framework of the framework can be performed.

Upholstery and Warming Iron Door - Video

Additional insulation of the inlet metal door

In addition to the work performed, there are two more directions through which heat goes out (blowing from under the entrance door):

through a loose fit of the door cloth to the box. Eliminate this problem by gluing around the perimeter of the door of the rubber seal;
through door slips. In this case, it will have to dismantle the slopes, inspect the safety of the foam, which was used at. Restore foam, if necessary. Then make a new warmed slope.

All work on the warming of street or apartment metal doors can be performed independently. But if you are afraid to make a mistake, it is better to order the services of the Master. The cost of its work will be from 1 500 rubles. (excluding the value of the material). And the final price will be determined taking into account the type of door, the complexity of the dismantling of one side of the door canvase, the presence of rigidity, the type of seal and the type of finishing material.

However, the costs of insulation of outer metal doors from metal are always justified, since they entail a significant reduction in heat loss through the doorway and allow the condensation to avoid the appearance of condensate on the door surface, which leads to the destruction of the door canvase.

With the arrival of cold weather, the hosts that have reliable inlet metal doors appear a global problem. The appearance of the door is worsening - water drops appear on it, hoarflash, ice on the inner surface. The atmosphere of the residential premises is changing. If you insulate the front door, then all this can be avoided. You can solve this task yourself without attracting specialists.

Materials and tools

Modern materials allow any home to protect from the cold.

For insulation of metal structures use:

styrofoam;
polystyrene;
mineral wool;
polyurethane foam;
foil isolon, foam;
sealer.

In addition to insulation, a manual plumbing tool will be needed:

roulette, pencil;
screwdriver, screwdriver;
drill with metal drills;
scissors or sharp knife;
sewn, hacksaw, electrolovik;
sandpaper, scotch;
glue (liquid nails), screws - self-tapping screws;
acetone or alcohol.

Decorative materials:

MDF - decorative panels or plates;
decorative film with a pattern repeating wood texture;
paints and varnishes;
dermatin imitating the skin.

It is impossible to neglect the safety technique.

When performing locksmith, it is important to have:

polymer coating gloves;
glasses to protect the eyes from mechanical particles, fragments;
respirator to protect the respiratory organs.

What insulation is better?

The maintenance of heat in your home depends on the high-quality heat insulating material. When it is elected, it is important to take into account the design of metal doors and the location of their location.

Styrofoamreceived by foaming (gas filling) polymers. One of the cheapest materials. It has excellent thermal insulation properties, not afraid of dampness and retains the form. Polyfoam will well keep warm on the door in the apartment. In a private house, it will not be reliable enough, but if it is supplemented by the mounting foam and foil isolon, he will serve for many years. In case of fire, chemical compounds harmful to human health.

For good sound insulation, there are three centimeters thick plates.

Polystyrene foam - Material obtained from polystyrene and other styrene copolymers. More expensive than foam. Moisture-resistant insulation having thermal insulation and sound insulation properties. Tight foam, wear-resistant, safe for health. There are refractory modifications.

Polystyrene. - The material obtained by polymerizing the styrene. It has dielectric properties, hard, has high thermal insulation properties, moisture resistant.

The materials listed above are ideally suited as the insulation of the private house inlet door, a country house. They will greatly provide protection against moisture and frost.

Mineral wool - inorganic fibrous material. Effective as insulation. In the same price category as foam. Depending on the fiber, it is divided into groups: glass gamble, slag and stone (basalt). It is manufactured from natural non-combustible materials, environmentally friendly. Sold in the form of rolls or plates. If it is used to insulate the door in a private house, water-repellent material is necessary.

Polyurene Foolder- Material, which relates to gas-filled polymers. This group includes: foam rubber, ready-made thermal insulation panels, mounting foam. Porolon has good thermal insulation and sound insulation properties. When burning is highly toxic, refers to strongly combustible substances. The exception is the foam rubber special purpose CMHR. It is distinguished by special elasticity and fire safety.

Foil Isolon, Penophol - Eco-friendly material. In the process of its manufacture, foil and foamed polyethylene are used. This is a modern, popular, economical, wear-resistant, moisture-resistant insulation. It has excellent soundproof properties.

Thermal insulation door frame with their own hands

For high-quality insulation of the entrance door, it is important to carry out the necessary work on the insulation of the box. It happens that workers, in a hurry to install the door, are left between the box and the sides of the doorway noticeable gaps. When you start warming up your door, you must fill all the slots of the mounting foam. After it freezes, all discover parts need to be cleaned. Shakes to launch and put in order.

After that, it is necessary to eliminate possible gaps between the metal door and the box. To do this, we acquire a ribbon silicone seal (can be foam). On the perimeter of the door door case process alcohol or acetone. In those places where they come into contact, glue the seal. In order to stick it exactly in the corners, we take out of two tapes of the seal, sharp knife or scissors carefully cut off at an angle of 45 degrees, remove the cut parts, and the edges of the seals are tightly pressed in the corner. Check the doorway for the presence of draft.

Stages of iron model

The sequence of actions when wearing the old door depends on its design. If the design is more modern and metal panels are attached to the base of screws, insulation is carried out in the inner way. Getting Started with internal warming, remove the metal structure, put onto the working surface. We unscrew the screws and remove the metal panel (so that the screws are unscrewed well, lubricate them with machine oil). Roulette remove the size of the internal cells of the door.

Carefully measure the insulation material and cut off. Be sure to cut the place under the door lock and the eyes. For old doors, foam or foil stone wool are remarkably suitable. We process the inner surface of the old glue design (liquid nails) and glue the prepared insulation. If the gaps are left between the old door and insulation, fill in their mounting foam. It is necessary to work carefully, squeezing the mounting foam to small portions. It is important to follow, so that it does not get on the mechanism of the battle castle. For additional sound insulation between the insulation and metal sheet, we press foil isolon. We close the design with a metal web and screw the screws.

If the old door is made by fixing metal panels with welding, then proceed to the warming of the old door, applying an external method. Preparing wooden bars 20 (30) x20 mm. We measure the parameters and cutting the rails at the required length. With the help of a drill, we do the openings of the future mount in the metal canvas. We collect the foundation of harvested wooden bars and fastened self-drawing to a metal sheet.

We prepare the insulation for the specified sizes. We put out and stick the insulation in the cells between the rails. Fix MDF panel or slab screws. Additionally, for sound insulation outside or from the inside, you can handle the door dermatin. To do this, clamping dermatin and brackets are fixed. Lubricate with glue (liquid nails), the lining and the tonmatin bending and tightly press to the metal canvase. This work is painstaking. At the last stage, install door locks, pens, eyes. Return the finished door to the place.

When the single-layer metal door is trimmed, it is necessary to measure cells between the rigidity ribs. Cut the inner material for the specified size. Mospus glue the insulation in the cavity. Gaps and minor gaps by eliminating with the help of mounting foam. Decorating the MDF panel.

Improve the characteristics of Chinese products

The door of Chinese production is an unintended design. For her insulation, remove the door, put horizontally. Remove the handles, eyes, castles. Then we begin to mount the frame and ribs of stiffness both with the inner and the outside. Therefore, we choose a wooden beam with a thickness of 20 * 20 mm, or more (repel from the thickness of the insulation material). If you wish, you can cook the metal base, attach it with self-reversals or weld to the door of the door, the joints of the joints are filled with mounting foam.

The next step is the laying of the insulation. If fibrous materials are selected (mineral wool, stone wool), spread the water-repellent material in size more than the cavity of the base, about 200 mm, fasten the glue (liquid nails) and weathered the wool, pre-cut a slightly larger web size than the size of the base cells, and cover with another layer of water-repellent material. The edges of the film tightly convert to the top layer and fix the scotch.

The insulation is covered with a foil or foil with a foil side with a foil side into the room. So improve sound insulation quality doors. Polyfoam, polystyrene foam, polystyrene, isol folgized in waterproofing do not need, as they themselves have water-repellent properties. Next, we measure the distance between the ribs of stiffness, we cut a slightly larger insulation than necessary to avoid the formation of the cavity between the insulation and the basis of the door. We glue the insulation in the cavity of the glue (liquid nails).

Attached to the surface of the base asking the mounting foam in the joints of the joints. The next step is to decorate the design sheet of MDF panel or alternative material. It is important to remember that the decorative panel must be attached from the bottom up. Fix, put locks, eyes and handles, hang the door. Now the door retains heat at home, and also protects against noise.

Without dismantling

Warming without dismantling is produced in three ways. The first is suitable for metal doors with removable panels. To do this, unscrew screws, starting with the bottom, moving up the top of the web. Unscrew not all screws, put the metal door to the stand. Gently promoting the insulation treated with glue (liquid nails), fix. For this method, foil isolon is suitable. Screw screws. The door is ready.

The second method is suitable for solid metal doors. We do the holes on top, having previously convinced that there are no more holes and gaps. We take any crumbly insulation (non-combustible bulk cotton wool, granulated foam, vermiculite, sawdust). I fall asleep it into the holes, tapping the door to achieve full filling of the cavity. This method is absolutely not suitable for doors with battle locks. After filling on the holes we put the plugs.

The third method is an external insulation. Fully follow the phased method of fastening the external method. You can stick the insulation on the inner surface of the doors.

The closer than the cold, the stronger the owners of the apartments are worried about drafts and temperatures in their home. According to statistics, about 30 percent of heat is "lost" due to cracks and insufficient thermal insulation. The most problematic places are windows and doors. It is easy to understand: metal-plastic windows with double double-glazed windows protect the apartment from drafts and frosts. But how can you prevent cold from entering the entrance door? This issue is especially relevant for those people who have metallic doors. Everyone knows that metal has excellent thermal conductivity. And this means that valuable heat disappears without a trace. And even though the iron door is much better than wooden protects your home from robbers and thieves, but it cannot cope with frosts. To improve insulation, you need to take care of the insulation of the entrance door.

What is needed to strengthen the iron entrance door?

The main problem with which the owners of apartments and houses are faced, is that this task seems very difficult. In fact, create an extra layer on the ready-made door is quite simple. Even a person who does not often do this kind of things can cope with this work. In addition, the insulation does not need special tools and materials. Everything you need can be found in the nearest construction store. If you do not know how to insulate the iron door, then prepare work tools from this list.

drill,
pencil,
screwdriver,
electric jigsaw,
roulette.

And, of course, you will need the following materials:

Fiberboard, MDF or chipboard (depends on personal preferences),
sealant
insulation (polystyolster, foam or mineral wool),
self-tapping screw
mounting foam,
liquid Nails.

How to insulate the iron door from the inside: instruction

The easiest way to create a warm and cozy atmosphere and to get rid of the cold will forever - insulate the door from the inside. To begin with, the metal door must be removed from the loops. It will be possible to engage in this work much easier and more convenient if the door takes a horizontal position. The metal sheet is always fixed by self-draws. Carefully unscrew them and examine the inner space. With the help of a roulette and a pencil, remove all sizes and write them down. It must be done in advance to prepare heat-insulating materials. Inside, you will notice the profile pipes that share the space for small cells. It is such a design that makes the door durable. But you can drill small holes in the pipes to fill them with the mounting foam. Pick up the drill, a thickness of a slightly exceeding the thickness of the cartridge tube with foam. Then neatly spread the harvesting of the insulating material, which is pre-cut under the desired form. Make sure that access to the castle and the eye remains free.

The insulation is best attached to liquid nails to guarantee its immobility. But the slots formed between different sickers of the material should be chopped by mounting foam. Do not leave "voids" to achieve maximum effect.

After the end of the draft work, you can start finishing. The sheathing of even expensive doors is very often made not from a solid sheet of DVP. We recommend replacing the ratio of doubts with a new and thick sheet of DVP (do not forget to fit it under the desired size). It is attached using ordinary screws.

And only after that you can proceed to the final assembly. The metal sheet returns to the place and fixes with self-draws. Then carefully inspect the resulting door. All possible cracks need to be treated with sealant.

How to insulate the iron entrance door with their own hands?

But it is not always possible to insulate the door from the inside. In this case, you need to take care of the conservation of heat in another way. The insulation is attached not inside, but outside. How to do it? After all, in this part, notes are not provided for laying insulation materials.

This method will require a little more time and effort. You need to start with the manufacture of a special frame for the door. Remove the door itself from the loops and measure it carefully. For the frame, conventional wooden rails will be required. They must be even (curved and deformed are not suitable). It is advisable to use a thickness of about 20 millimeters with a width - no more than 30 millimeters.

The created wooden frame should go around the perimeter of the door itself. Increase the strength of the structure will help cross rails. It is possible to secure it with the help of conventional screws. Thus, you independently create an inner cavity. It can be filled with foam or mineral wool. The insulation is best attached to the same liquid nails.

All gaps between slices of foamflast (or other insulation) must be bleed by mounting foam. Try not to miss even small voids. Leave the door to complete foam drying.

Now you need to do the trim, which will hide insulating materials. If you want to know how to insulate a metal door, then take the Fiberboard sheet or MDF and keep it under the dimensions of the door. This layer should be fixed with special care. To do this, try the sheet to the door, and only then start screwing the screws. We recommend it in advance to make holes in the metal so that the screws can be screwed without much effort.

How to insulate the iron door in a private house?

The problem of a private house is that between the door itself and the street there is neither a single barrier. In apartment buildings from cold and frosts, the entrance door separates the entrance. The temperature in it is always a few degrees above. And this means that heat and cold do not face two sides of one sheet of metal. In a private house, the rail door is often covered in the other. The thing is that the hallway keeps a positive temperature when negative is dominated on the street. It will not be possible to get rid of this problem with the insulation. The best way to keep heat in such a situation is to make a small "pre-banner", for example, glazing the veranda.

How to insulate iron entrance door: video

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How to insulate the inlet metal door with their own hands - reasons and ways to eliminate condensate

Questions about how to insulate the iron door in a private house, on the Internet much more than intelligible answers to them. Rather, there are answers and even a lot, but they are mainly that they give rise to even more questions, because most of them do not solve the tasks in the root due to the principal mistakes in the approaches.

Let's try to figure out, as they say "on the fingers", in which the main errors of the insulation of the entrance door in the private house, and what needs to be done to prevent them.

The picture shown in these photos has to see quite often. Rather: almost always, if the steel door, even very good, is installed without the so-called cold tambour and is the only obstacle between the warm room and the cold street.

99% of the "iron" doors, even with the most careful factory warming, are not devoid of cold bridges, leading to such consequences. It would seem that the door, the incision of which is presented in the photo below, is insulated thoroughly.

But the profiles of stiffness, the ends of the door canvases and box are precisely the bridges of the cold, which, with a small frost, provide you with a large number of condensate, and with a solid freezer, koi in Mothers - Russia sometimes happens, will lead to the formation of a land. Why does this happen?

Causes of iron door freezing in a private house

When does the moisture form begins on the box and door canvase? Then, when their temperature becomes such that the pairs of contacting with them begins to condense in the dew. With stability conditions (cold outside - from the inside heat), the resulting condensate flows down, and in its place a new one is formed. Such a miniber for the production of water is capable of developing up to several buckets per day.

If the temperature of the outside will fall further (or the temperature inside will fall), the condensed moisture will freeze and ice. And if there is a cold bridges, this process cannot be stopped, whatever insulating material you do not pave inside the door. And at the factory laid anything:

I think it should not be too detailed to paint that under certain temperature conditions, the moisture necessarily condenses not on the inner surface of the door, but on the inner surface of the outer sheet of its web. What happens to her? Definitely, it will be bought by a cotton insulation to full saturation, which will lead to:

losing the insulation of its heat engineering characteristics;
the formation of emptiness due to the sedimentation of a cotton insulation under the increased, due to the mass of water, its own weight;
the creation of the corrosion focus is almost always not the best protected internal metal surfaces;
the emergence of a favorable environment for the development of mold, fungi and living malicious microorganisms.

On the emerging from many, a completely reasonable question about what the doors are produced, there is one reasonable answer: for installation in apartment buildings, the temperature in the entrances of which (if there is a heating in the house) does not fall below zero, even if radiators are cut. Heat penetrates the staircases not only through such doors, but through thin walls of apartments. After all, their owners buying input metal doors are ten times more than the owners of private houses who want to do the same.

And what to do with these unfortunate owners of private houses wishing to establish a reliable iron door at the entrance to the house and categorically disagreeable to build even the minimum size of a cold vestibule - a heat exchanger in which it will not be presenting such surprises that are described above?

Ways to solve the problem of freezing input iron doors

Just look at the extensive steel door markets that are manufactured precisely for these cases. They are actually not so much. Maybe even more than 1% we own, but not essentially.

In such doors, first of all, they are fighting condensate formation in two ways:

eliminating cold bridges;
displays a dew point from the room outward.

For this:

Make inserts in the box, ends and ribs of the hardness of the door of solid plastic, interrupting heat transfer for metal;

Displays the design elements of the door, interrupting cold bridges (third photo above);

Install the electrically heated box, and sometimes the door canvase.

Sometimes similar methods manufacturer applies in one door design. The acquisition of just such a door will be the first solution to your problem. True and it would be advised to add something to him.

Namely:

If on your door outside there is a tree lining (1), put a thin membrane of foamed polyethylene under it, at least such as stacked under the laminate.
Installed under the decorative lining of the door handle and locks (10, 14) dense polyethylene film, which you after their fastening gently cut down the contour, effectively reduces the possibility of moisture condensation from the inside of the fitness.
If any cotton (4) is used in your door as a heater and there is an opportunity to fix it - do it. Replace it on sheet polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam, be sure to glue them to the mounting foam to the outer steel door map. It is better if it is applied without gaps, which will prevent the condensation of moisture between the metal web and insulation. The ideal option is when the dew point will be in the array of this insulation. This is not a wool you - physical water to form inside will not be able.
Install the outer coach (7) on the box (8) with the gasket between them or the same as in the first paragraph, but possibly thicker (8-10 mm) foam polyethylene, or centimeter polystyrene.

Such refinement will definitely improve the heat engineering indicators of your input door.

How to insulate the entrance metal door do it yourself

If your product is much less technologically technological than those described above, you need to know how to insulate the input metal door with your own hands without spending money more money than saved on her acquisition, preferring a cheaper option.

For this:

1) If the doorbell is collapsible - disassemble it if not - carefully cut off the back card, you can use the end, and it is possible on the plane, depending on which the insulation variant you choose.

2) Remove the so-called factory insulation and select the subsequent closing of the door leaf from the inside.

If you choose the option of returning a cut card into place with refining its edges or closing the place of the cut in some corner - do it as shown in the picture above. Please note that the rake screwed up with self-loading to the carrying profile of the door leaf has a smaller width than the inner cavity of the door, and the gap between the outer map and the wooden slak must be filled with the mounting foam. Also, protruding literally on 1 - 1.5 mm above the profile pipe of the bar, breaks the direct contact of the metal with the metal, and therefore the notorious bridge of the cold.

3) Insulation and how to work with it, select as described in the previous section. With the strapping door and accessories, do the most approximately as described in it.

4) If, instead of a metal rear card, you will prefer, for example, laminated Phaneur or you made your door to order without a rear card, and we will offer you the same fane or a material close to it by functionality, then:

Insulation of slopes

entrance doors

fill it with the insides familiar way;
make in places where the sheet metal is bent, the corners with the desired parameters (in which your plywood will enter) to fasten them with self-draws to the outer profile pipe of the door web;
insert the plywood rear door card to the pocket formed using the corner and close it the perimeter with the same corner using the sealant suitable for this purpose.

5) Do not forget about the box. When he insulated, remember that the best is the best of thermal insulators - polyurethane foam. If you can inside the box and the perimeter around it to fill it out - do it.

If you have the opportunity in any way, at least a little to insulate the box outside - be sure to: at least with a lining through the insulation, at least as close as possible to the door canvase with warm slope.

6) In all the versions of the insulation of the entrance doors, it is necessary to remember about the seals of the context. If your do not fully meet the conditions of abnormability - change them and subsequently control their condition regularly.

Heating inlet metal door with electricity

Finally, we want to offer you one simple, but without performing the procedures described above, not quite economically justified way of solving the same problem of insulation of the input metal door - electric.

Probably, you should not explain why, heated the entrance door from the inside, we will get rid of condensate and ice on it. Naturally, moving the dew point from the back of the door to the street, he will tear it inside. And if the materials proposed by us are installed correctly, then everything will be fine, and if not, the consequences of this are listed in the same article, but above (condensate, wetting insulation, mold).

How and what to warm up:

By installing a thermal veil or some directional action heater;

Paving the infrared electrical film for warm plinths from the inside;

By placing the self-regulating thermocabel for the water supply around it in the box or by paving around it.

The main nuances of the heating device of the input metal door with cable warm floor are indicated in the video material below.

Some advise to use a 12-voltage its version, but it is hardly appropriate, given that such a cable is paved inside the plumbing pipe, and the installation of a power reduced transformer is clearly not the best option.

The effect in all cases will be the same. Also, all of the above can be installed through the thermostat, which will allow, once exhibiting the desired temperature at which there will be no condensation formation, forget about this problem forever. In any case, while there is electricity in the house.

Dear readers, if you have any questions, ask them using the form below. We will be happy to communicate with you;)

stroi-Specialist.ru.

Insulation of the input metal door - the correct thermal insulation with your own hands

Warming input metal door with their own hands

The process begins with the choice of the optimal heat-insulating material, which depends on the effectiveness of insulation and its validity period.

How to insulate a metal door

penophol. Thanks to the reflecting ability of the foil layer, it holds almost everything heat in the room. Used only as an additional material;

hard insulation. These include foam and expanded polystyrenex (PESEROPLEX). Their advantage in the convenience of installation, a relatively low price. Since it is not hygroscopic, it does not need additional films. This is the only suitable option for installation in a cottage, a rustic or rural house. Indeed, in this case, the door serves as a barrier for low temperatures and wind, which is not observed in apartment buildings, where the door goes into the entrance.

Note. Choosing thermal insulation material, preference to polystrance (polystyrene foam). It is an order of magnificent foam of foam and will provide the doors much more efficient insulation.

soft insulation. This category includes glass gamble and mineral (basalt) wool. Their difference only in the initial raw material, in its heat insulating characteristics, they are not very different. Minvatu is distinguished by environmental friendliness, fire safety, the ability to vary the height of laying without additional trim.

But Wat has a disadvantage that does not allow it to be recommended for installation in iron doors for private houses. Because From different sides of the door there are different temperatures, and sometimes the difference is up to 40 ° C (-15 on the street and +25 in the house). This leads to a displacement of the point of dew inside the insulation, and wata wet. It is possible to neutralize the effect by installing the film of the hydrocker. But, nevertheless, professionals do not advise you to carry out the warming of an iron door with a private house. It can be an acceptable option only if the entrance door is insulated in the apartment, since in this case there is no such big difference in temperatures (in the entrance is much warmer than on the street).

inflatable insulation. Present polyurethane foam. The spraying makes it possible to fill all the cracks, but is distinguished by a high price.

Note: A set of materials that can be found in stores for the insulation of the outer door from the metal is unsuitable, because The insulation is used in them dermantin, foam rubber or syntheps.

Additional materials for thermal insulation doors

liquid nails, hardware, mounting foam - when insulating hard insulation;

film of the hydrobericer, parobacker, scotch - with soft;

sheet DVP, plywood, OSB (for cladding, if the door canvas is intimidate);

decorative finishing material: Dermantin, MDF panels or plastic panels;

sealer (rubber, silicone).

From the instrument you will need: roulette, drill, jigsaw, screwdriver, pencil, stationery knife.

Note. When working with glass, you need to take care of the protection of the respiratory tract, hands and eyes (respirator, gloves, glasses).

Frame device inside the door (rigidity ribs)

After the door leaf will disassemble, it may be that in the cavity of the door there are no stiffeners, then they will need to be done.

How to insulate a metal entrance door in a private house

the door leaf is removed from the loops. Masters are able to perform work "on weight", but for a beginner it can cause difficulties;

all overhead elements are dismantled. These include: Castle lining, handle, eye;

removes the skin on one of the parties. If the door is collapsible, i.e. It can be opened without a violation of one of the layers, the dismantled plane of the door retissure, and then installed in place. Otherwise, one of the sides of the door (usually internal) is cut, and in the subsequently replaced by a sheet of chipboard and finishing material;

if the ribs are present inside the door cavity, you can start laying the insulation. Otherwise you need to take care of their arrangement;

formation of internal crate. To do this, first make a frame to which the ribs are mounted. The metal profile is welded, and the timber is mounted by hardware, so that the integrity of the facial coating of the door is not impaired.

in the frame cells, the insulation is stacked. When laying, it is necessary to ensure that it completely filled the entire space of the cell, while it corresponded to it in height;

when insulating the foam, it is cut on the blanks of the desired dimensions, liquid nails are applied to the workpiece and glued to the surface of the door. In the presence of cracks, it is recommended to fill them with a mounting foam;

How to insulate the metal door foam - video

when warming with cotton, work is starting with the laying of the film, which should occupy the entire inner door surface and go beyond 150-200 mm. Next, the cotton is cut on a blank by 10-15 mm. More than the sizes of the cell (slightly expanding, the wool will easily fill them with) and put in cells. The wool is then covered with a second layer of film, and the bend from the lower layer of the film, wrapped on the top layer of the film, and rushed with scotch. Thus, the wool is obtained in a case that will be a reliable protection against moisture.

the insulation is covered with foam (if the door is addressed towards the room) reflective layer in the room;

if the door canvate disassembled without problems, then the second removable part is installed in place, and the insulation of the metal door can be considered completed. But often, it is required to prepare a stipple sheet, which will replace the door dismantled on one side.

For these purposes, a chipboard or plywood plate is used. To prepare the workpiece you need:

transfer the dimensions of the door leaf, including eye and castle;

fasten the sheet to the door frame by self-drawing;

eliminate irregularities, discover edges, as well as thicker a little leaf edge.

Note. The fastening of the facing panel is performed from below. Thus, it will be aligned as it is screwed.

the latter is made of decorative upholstery or door casing and installing elements and accessories removed.

The result of the implementation of all works will be a warmed metal door, which will reliably protect the room from heat loss.

Now it can be hung it back on the loop and check the performance of the handles and the lock.

But it is worth noting that the insulation of a metal door only in the area of \u200b\u200bthe doorway is a small part of the possible work on the insulation of doors.

One of the sources of heat loss is a door frame. In most cases, it is a hollow, and therefore perfectly misses heat.

Warming Box Metal Doors

The insulation of the door frame is performed by strangling the mounting foam inside the metal profile. Make it easy. It is enough to drill holes in the frame profile (not through) at a distance of 400-450 mm. The diameter of the opening is equal to the diameter of the tube from the cylinder with foam. After that, the cylinder tube will start in profile and foam fills free space.

Note. In the same way, the insulation of metal ribs of stiffness in the door cavity immediately after the framework of the framework can be performed.

Upholstery and Warming Iron Door - Video

Additional insulation of the inlet metal door

In addition to the work performed, there are two more directions through which heat goes out (blowing from under the entrance door).

Through a loose fit of the door cloth to the box. You can eliminate this problem by sticking around the perimeter of the door of the rubber seal.
Through door slips. In this case, it will have to dismantle the slopes, inspect the safety of the foam, which was used when installing the door. Restore foam, if necessary. Then make a new warmed slope.

Tags: doors, entrance doors, metal door, insulation

nawdom.ru.

The better to insulate the entrance doors in a private house with their own hands: choose the insulation (self-adhesive, felt, dermatin), video

The entrance door in a private house is one of the main sources of heat loss. In order not to freeze in winter, you need to take care of her insulation in advance. In this article, we consider what materials it is better to apply as a heater (felt, foam rubber, foam), as high quality and simply insulate the door with your own hands, hide her dermatitin and close the slit self-adhesive tape.

What a heater for the entrance door is better to choose

There are several ways to insulate the front door for the winter, the optimal is the upholstery. This uses the following materials for this:

Warm iron door with foam panels

Usually, metal doors are made from a sheet material welded on sides of the sides, i.e. have inside the voids that need to be filled from the inside, for additional insulation.

The insulation technology is as follows:

We remove the dimensions of the door leaf (width and length) by which we cut the panel from the fiberboard to close the foam layer.
We transfer to the phaneur from the fiberboard the dimensions of the door leaf, the location and size of the eyes and the handles, cut the openings under them.
We apply the panel to the door, checking the correctness of all marks.

Warming of iron door foam

With the help of a sharp knife, we cut out the sheets of penity, to glue them to the inside of the door canvase. This insulation is glued using silicone, which is applied with a dense uniform layer, over the entire surface.

Tip! The thickness of the foam is determined by the size of the regiment of the corner.

Now you can close the foam panel from the fiberboard. We put on a screwdriver and screw the boulders to the door leaf on the screwdriver.
The ribs of the stiffness of the metal door are made of a hollow tube, in the winter it is refrigerated and the effect of the "refrigerator" is obtained. That this does not happen, it is filled from inside by mounting foam. To do this, the hole is made in a drill hole, where and pour foam.

Attention! If you want to overhaul the wall, the slots between the sheets of foam, can also be pouring the mounting foam.

Warm the front door to Foam

To insulate the entrance door from a tree, a foam rubber can be used from the outside. For this you need:

Remove the door frame with loops and place it on a flat horizontal plane, such as stools. Then remove all the protruding parts of the door (lock, eye hole, handle).

Tip! Before heating the door to the foam rubber, hover the door to the canvas with an iron sheet to strengthen it.

Next, you need to make the basis for rollers needed to plug the hole between the door and the box. For doors, opening out, from dermatitis, 3 bands are cut out with a width of 140 mm, of which the length is the first to be the length of the door, and the 2 other widths. Three strips are sticking with cloves along the edge of the door box, pre-retreating from the edge of 15 mm. The party on which the loops are located. For doors that open inward, 4 140 mm wide strips are cut and nailed from all sides.
From the cotton you need to make harnesses, a diameter of 30 mm, wrap them into the dermatin, pinned from below, and nail the resulting roller at the very edge door.
Next, foam rubber sheets are laid on top of the door leaf.

From Dermatin you need to cut the cloth according to the door parameters, plus 10 cm on each side. Spread the dermatin on top of the insulation and lift it with nails, first lateral angles, and then the bottom and top
Next, you need to make the remaining three rollers (this applies to the doors that open out) and nurture them so that the upper edge of the upholstery cannol overlap the bottom.
Then you can nail a cloth throughout the perimeter, ending with the edge on which the loops are located.

Tip! You can reap the door leaf, having navigasted with caps on a specific pattern. This method of "decorations" doors does not give to the rustle.

At the end, you need to cut holes for all the protruding parts of the door, secure the handle to the place and you can hang the door back to the loop.

Insulation of mounting foam

No less effective way to protect the doorway from cold air to getting a mounting foam:

Pistol with mounting foam

Buy gun with foam, medium sizes.
Cut the building tape the border of the door, including the door itself, the box and the wall.
Pour the mounting foam inner and external door perimeter, checking the emptiness between the door frame and the wall.
Then with the help of sandwich and the knife to remove excess foam.
At the end of the joints, put sand and sneak under the color of the walls of the house.

How to use sealing gasket

Rubber gasket overlaps the gap between the door frame and the door canvas. Such a gap remains even with a closed position of the door, and through it up to 20% of heat. To prevent it:

Measure the perimeter of the door frame, this indicator will be equal to the length of the tape. The width is equal to the size of the place of contact of the frame and the door leaf (the width of the fold), and the thickness of the width of the cloth and the door.

Tip! The width of the fold is to measure problematic, but this can be done with plasticine. It is placed between the door and the box, and close it. After that, it is removed and removed.

We remove the paper from the sealing laying that protects the sticky side, and smooth over the entire perimeter of the folding door box.

Thus, it is possible to insulate the door by upgrading it with insulation and closing the joints with a sealing ribbon. If these methods do not help, you need to check the installation of the door leaf and the absence of holes in the mounting foam used during installation.

Warming input door do it yourself: video

How to insulate entrance doors: photo

The better to insulate the foundation of the house outside

Reading time ≈ 9 minutes

Despite the many advantages, metal doors have one significant drawback - an increased thermal conductivity, which in the cold season is washing to deliver a lot of inconvenience. Therefore it is extremely important to know how to insulate the inlet metal door.

Metal entrance door in a private house.

Why you need to warm

Through the door design, a lot of heat can go for the following reasons:

the presence of slots, gaps, hollow spaces (for example, inside the box) through which warm air leaves and drafts are created;
lack of heat insulating layer in the purchase or self-made door design;
outdated, damaged, requiring replacement layer of thermal insulation.

In addition to the obvious benefit - heat conservation - most heat-insulating materials also have high sound insulation properties.

Through a laptile door design, up to 30% of heat can go.

Video: condensate on a metal door.

Material overview

Today there are several types of insulation, the choice of which depends on the features of the door and home (apartments), budget and personal preferences:

Cell fillers. The name received in view of the external similarity with bee honeycombs. It is lightweight, inexpensive material from corrugated cardboard with good sound insulation properties (which is very important in the apartment), but its thermal insulation properties are lower than that of other materials. Environmentally friendly, has a high level of hardness, it is well tolerating temperature differences.

Corrugated cardboard.

Mineral wool.

Styrofoam. This material is also often used for the insulation of door structures, and that is why it has high heat and sound insulation, very simple in operation and installation, has a smaller weight than other insulation, no shrinkage. Also a significant advantage is low cost.

Styrofoam.

Polyurethane foam (mounting foam). It requires the presence of tools and skills of work, therefore it is rarely used if they plan to warm the door independently. However, the material has several advantages: can evenly fill all empties, light and hard, not afraid of temperature differences and high humidity.

Polystyrene foam.

Polypropylene. According to positive properties, it does not differ from above the listed materials - light, resistant to high and low temperatures, humidity, does not shrink, easy to work.

Polypropylene.

In addition to the heat insulating material, it is also important to pick up the seal, because without it, insulation cannot be considered complete and full - cold air penetrate through the slots and gaps. Seals differ in the type of fastening: on the self-adhesive film and those that need to be glued independently. It is very important to correctly pick up the seal to the profile of the door, including to calculate its thickness.

Tip: To properly pick up the thickness of the seal, use the reception with conventional plasticine - roll it into a sausage with a diameter of 1 cm, wrap the food film. Next, attach around the perimeter of the door and close it - the plasticine is squealing and will take the thickness you need.

Sealers.

Materials and tools

Before starting work, you need to collect all the necessary materials:

a sheet of plywood or chipboard, corresponding to the dimensions of the door;
metal corners;
wooden bars (thickness is equal to the width of the corners);
foam assembly;
seal (glue, if the seal is not self-adhesive);
putty;
adhesive for fastening the thermal insulation material (liquid nails);
lobzik, screwdriver;
construction knife, spatula;
marker / Pencil, Roulette.

The insulation diagram of the door design in an apartment and a private house is almost identical - the door must be removed from the loops, disassemble, insulate the canvas, as well as the slopes, door frame, isolate all the gaps and make a facing. Only the insulation material can differ.

Please note: during the installation of thermal insulation material, the residential premises will be for some time without a door, because insulation is important to do in the warm season.

Door design.

Insulation boxes

The metal door box is usually a rectangle cooked from the corners. When installing the box in the doorway between the walls and design, the gaps remain. Usually they are filled with polystyrene foam. But from UV rays, it is destroyed and loses its properties. Therefore, when insulating the old metal structure, follow these actions:

Pay old mounting foam, also clean the gap from pollution and debris.
In the doorway, you can set the struts - it is important to foam foam, since an unrestal mixture reacts very badly to vibrations and movements.
To increase the adhesion, all areas must be moistened with ordinary water and re-fill in the mounting foam.

Joining foam into the box.

When the mixture hardens, cut extra sections with a building knife.
In order to protect the insulation from UV rays, as well as to make seams more aesthetic, it needs to be put on with putty.

Sunsaw metal doors.

Warming of the web

Consider step by step, how to insulate the inlet metal door:

Production of crates.

In the obtained voids you need to lay the selected thermal insulation material. Consider on the example of foam - it needs to be "uncorrecting" in the size of the cells. It is important to accurately comply with the dimensions, so that there are no gaps between the insulation and the framework. The height of the insulation must be equal to the height of the frame - not higher, and not lower! Next, the carved segments are attached to liquid nails to the metal canvas.
If nevertheless, gaps were between the frame and thermal insulation, they are filled with mounting foam. After curing, the protruding edges are cut into a mock with a frame.

We will also consider step-by-step instructions for insulation of mineral wool:

Stages including the manufacture of crates will be identical. However, before installing the crate and laying of the mineral wool, you need to put a layer of vapor barrier (as we remember, cotton wool is very hygroscopic). To do this, all over the perimeter of the metal sheet you need to put a dense oilcloth (film) so that it performs for perimeters by 3-4 cm.
Vata is cut into segments in the sizes of the frame of the frame - segments must be 1-2 cm more.
After styling the wool, the second layer of the film is hardened on top, and the lower bends bends over, thus it turns out a kind of protective cover from the film. To bond segments, you can use tape.
In completion layer of the oilcloth is covered with foam (foamed polyethylene with a thin layer of aluminum foil). If the coating is unilateral, it is placed in the direction of the residential space.

Penofol is able to reflect up to 96% of thermal rays! The folgized film on the efficiency of thermal insulation is 2.5 ceramic bricks, 8 cm mineral wool, 40 cm of aerated concrete or 50 cm of ordinary concrete.

On this, the insulation of the metal canvase is completed, it remains only to bind the surface and attach the door.

Final cladding

If the door is collapsible, then it remains only to attach a rejected cloth. If the facing had to cut, then you need to make a new coating. It not only protects the thermal insulation layer, but will also have a decorative purpose. Most often, a plywood, chipboard or MDF and Dermantine is used for this purpose.

How to make a facing with your own hands:

Fanoon and Dermantine finish.

Next, the facing canvas need to be consolidated to the door is awarded it to a wooden frame. For the connection strength, glue is applied around the perimeter.
K handle, lock and other elements is attached.
The sealer is attached to the door frame, and.
Important! If the door has become thicker from the original option, you need to take care of the lengthening of the key and the square of the door handle in advance!

Now you know how to independently insulate the inlet metal door. It's quite simple to make it, and all the efforts will certainly be justified - the heat loss will decrease, eliminate the problem of condensate, the door leaf will last longer, and utilities will become lower!

Video: insulation of the street metal door.

Having established a reliable sash between the street and the house, regardless of whether it is Chinese or European Safety Type, it is necessary to take care of the question, how to insulate the inlet metal door to cold weather.

Choose a metal door with insulation

Do you live in an apartment or in the house, in any case, your housing requires a reliable entrance door. It may be an inexpensive iron sash of Chinese production, or an armored canvas with refractory and bulletproof layers, the main thing, choose a model, the cavities of which are filled with insulation. It is extremely important to ask in advance what kind of thermal insulation is contained inside the sash, since a cellular cardboard is used as a heater. The strength of this material is high to the same extent as the thermal conductivity. Very often, the internal filling of the steel door is performed from the subtle foam, which also does not contribute to high-quality insulation.

The optimal option today is the basalt thermal insulation. Of course, with a poorly important arrangement inside the sash, mineral fiber will compare under its own severity. But professionally performed metal doors with such a filler fixed throughout the area with the help of horizontal ribs, will serve quite a long time without the formation of frozen areas. There are also models with filling in sawdust of the inner cavity between metal sheets. Such a solution largely reduces the thermal conductivity of the outdoor door.

But most often you have to buy budget options, with completely missing insulation, as well as without an inner panel, or upholstered from the inside tightly fitted boards or a bar. In this case, you need to look for options, how to insulate the inlet metal door yourself. As a material for filling the space between the ribs of rigidity, a foam rubber can be used, which is better to apply in combination with Vatin, as well as polyurethane foam or, in extreme cases, polystyrene foam. Thermal insulation can be performed both from the inside and outside.

Simplest ways how to insulate the inlet metal door

There are several ways to fasten thermal insulation on the inner surface of the metal door, but whatever you choose, be sure to prepare internal trim. It can be plywood, fiberboard, MDF or even a sheet of plastic. Next, pay attention to what material the frame and ribs of the stiffness of the sash are made. Most likely, it will be a square profile, which is more convenient to fix the inner trim. If the door frame is made of a corner, it is best to do thermal insulation outside, making a special frame from the rail to this. True, in this case, the external trim is better to choose, based on its appearance, that is, it should be decorative material.

But back to how to insulate the iron entrance door from the inside. Suppose, foam plastic is chosen as thermal insulation. To secure it, we need glue. First, according to the dimensions of the door, you prepare the inner trim, drinking holes under the locks and eyes on it (if cutouts should be complex shape, processed with a file). Next, cut off from the sheet of polystyrene fragments of the desired value based on the space of areas between the rigid ribs. We apply the glue by dotted lines along the perimeter of foam cuts, which are then tightly pressed against the door canvas.

The next stage is the installation of the inner covering. We have already prepared for this purpose for this purpose, all the slots are done in it, it remains only to fix. Because it will be added to the frame and ribs of the door stiffness, it is necessary to pre-drill holes, determining the points of fasteners. Drilling immediately through the trim, so that afterwards, applying it, not losing the location of the holes. For installation, we use conventional screws. A fixed sheet in decorative purposes process on the edges, slightly spining them.

When laying a heater as a fixation, a mounting foam can be used, which is applied not only to the inner surface of the sash, but also on the side planes of rigidity.

Thermal insulation of the front door outside is carried out in a similar way. The only difference lies in the fact that there are no frame and ribs of stiffness from profiles, between which you can put the insulation. Therefore, for high-quality fasteners of the material, it is necessary to pre-install the limiter - frame from wooden plates. This design is screwed straightened to the door leaf, for which it is necessary to drill holes for screws on the sash surface. We carry out one big sheet. Then the entrance street insulated door is covered outside with decorative trim. You can even salary or hide a dense cloth or dermist.

What should there be an inlet street insulated door

On the eve of winter it is necessary to warm not only door flaps, but also boxes. Well, if they are already purchased with thermal insulation, in the absence of such it is recommended to place the filler inside the door box at the installation phase in the opening. The best option is to fill the emptiness in the profile or chaserler with a mortar into which wood sawdust is mixed. However, as mentioned above, most often we are offered inexpensive metal doors with a complete absence of thermal insulation as models of class "Economy". And, if it was not possible to insulate the sash and the box during the installation process, you still need to find the opportunity, and subsequently fill the emptiness insulation.

It is best for this purpose some bulk filler fit. It can be strolled vermiculite, clamzit, and even the usual will significantly reduce the thermal conductivity of the door. For laying insulation, it is enough to do holes at the top of the box. The main thing is that there are no slots or cracks below, in order to avoid the rash of the filler. Alternatively, a mounting foam can be used or, in other words, polyurethane foam. To fill this, the sealant of the hole must be done all the height in the box through some gaps, filling the profile from the bottom up. The only drawback of this method is the lack of opportunity to fully monitor the quality of the cavities and the need to close the box at the end of work with decorative platbands.

The cold in the housing penetrates not only in the lack of thermal insulation, but also with drafts arising in the presence of the slightest cracks. These appear with a loose fit of the entrance door to the box, which in most cases is typical with metal sash. It is possible to solve the problem on your own: when the slot is detected along the intensified airproof, it is enough to place between the door and the box of the seal. You can buy a foam strip in the economic or construction store with a self-adhesive basis, or manually cut into the foam rubber and fix it with PVA. Also as a seal, porous rubber, syntheps, felt and even dermatin are quite suitable. The latter is best used to use with any other material from the listed, as firming wrappers, that is, wrapping the dermatin strip into a long roller with foam rubber or syntheps inside.