Best ways to remove oil paint from the walls. How to remove the old paint from the walls in the kitchen? How to remove paint from the wall quickly

Removal of oil paint from the walls - work long and time-consuming

One who at least once tried to clean the walls from the old paint coating, knows how difficult it is to remove the oil paint. Even if she swelled and falls off the itself, it keeps so hard in some sites, which is not amenable to the scraper or iron brush.

However, there are several ways to remove the old oil paint from the walls, and their choice depends on the further alleged finishes, your readiness to spend time or money.

And do you always need to do it? The question is very simple as the answer to it.

Let's start with where now can you meet such a flooring on the walls? Is that in old apartments in which the "Soviet" finish is still preserved: the walls painted from below with dark color and light (or whitewash) from above. But it is not so important.

It is important - what are you going to do with them further:

If you align with plaster (see Alignment of walls with plaster for all the rules), put off, sneak with ceramic tiles, painted or bold with wallpaperIt is certainly necessary to consider the coating, because the building mixes and adhesives do not "stick" or the grip will be very unreliable. The result can be peeling a new coating.
If it is assumed to finish with plasterboard, clapboard, wall panels Or any other materials that are fastened to the crate, no need to remove paint.

Therefore, it is advisable to make a decision on further decoration in advance before removing the oil paint from the walls, spending a bunch of time and strength. And even if it is necessary, the method of dismantling the old coating is also often selected depending on the type of coating new.

What instruments will be useful

The tool for removing paint from the walls is used the most different. That is, everyone can find that it will be perfectly fit his budget and situations in general.

Depending on the type of paint and the method of its removal, such materials and tools may be needed:

Construction hairdryer - they will be useful for the thermal method;
Electric drill;
Spatula or scraper - universal remedy;
Water;
Funds for individual protection, such as gloves, respirator.
The liquid, with which the varnish is removed, well, tissue or roller to it. With this means you need to be extremely neat since it can be toxic and cause allergies.

Oil paint removal methods

Each method described below has both advantages and disadvantages, including one common: in any case you will need a lot of time and effort.

Mechanical

Physically, this method is the most time consuming and long, but it does not require financial costs and does not harm health. The main instrument of labor is the usual ax that will have to wonder with their own hands. For this you need a lot of physical strength.

This method is ideal if:

After cleaning, you will align the walls with plaster;
Or facing it with tiles.

And the plaster, and glue solutions are best connected with a rough surface, and it is exactly the same and it becomes like an ax. The essence of the cleaning of the wall from the oil coating is that it is literally cutting off the surface.

This is done like this:

First, the sharp ax over the cleaned area is made frequent notches;

The wall is then abundantly wetted with water with a sprayer or wet rag;
When water is absorbed, the same ax or hammer and chisel should be covered, Holding the tool is no longer right, but at an acute angle to the surface.

Council. It is better to clean and clean small areas so that water does not have time to dry.

This method is chosen in the event that the work is performed in the room without ventilation, which is impossible to actively ventilate. Dust is formed quite a lot, but the conventional gauze bandage will help to protect against it.

Chemical

Wash off the paint from the walls is physically much easier than cut down (see how to wash the paint without problems). And faster. And it is quite feasible, since there is a special tool for removing oil paint from the walls, and not one. Often it is called - washing.

In its composition, it contains acids, solvents and other chemical reagents, softening coating, which after that is easily removed with a spatula or metal scraper.

As you already understood, the process of cleaning is not at all similar to the removal of dirt from the surface with the help of water and rags, since the solution is very aggressive, and it is necessary to work with it, strictly observing the technology:

On the surface, the solution is applied with a roller or brush in one direction;
Upon expiration of the specified time when the coating becomes soft, it is removed along with the applied to the means with any convenient tool;

Very convenient to operate with a metal spatula

The procedure sometimes has to be repeated to achieve the desired result. As a rule, the repeated wash is needed if the paint is applied to several layers;
At the end of the work, a mixture of paint with a solvent must be disposed of, not allowing its entry into the ground or domestic sewer.

The greatest drawback of this method is the danger to poison volatile substances or get a serious skin burn and mucous membranes. Therefore, it is possible to use it only in rooms with a powerful exhaust or with the possibility of good ventilation. But even in this case, the smell can hold for quite a long time, so it is impossible to live or just for a long time during repair. Especially children and people with health problems.

Council. To protect yourself, performing work follows in the respirator, protecting the eyes with special glasses, and the hands are glove. It is also desirable to be dressed in a suit with long sleeves and pants.

The second serious minus is a high price of funds, which significantly affects the wallet, if the processing is subject to a large area. In addition to the finished chemical reagents, less hazardous substances can be used: lime, calcined soda, liquid glass.

Their use for walls is difficult, but from the floor oil paint will be able to remove without problems:

It should be abundantly moistened with water, fall asleep with a solid layer of soda and cover the dearer for a day, constantly wetting it throughout this time. The next day, wake-up paint will easily be removed by a spatula.
A quick lime will help to speed up the process, which is mixed with calcined soda in the proportion of 3: 1. The thick casket is also applied to the surface and withstand 12 hours.
But the walls can be lubricated with liquid glass and give it to dry. When this happens, the resulting silicate film will be removed from the surface along with the old paint.

Thermal

Oil paint softened not only under the influence of chemical reagents, but also under the influence of high temperature. If the coating is well warm, it will be possible to scream with a spatula. You can do this with a construction dryer.

Work in this case is performed simultaneously: a small portion heats up and immediately frees from the paint until it froze again.

Cleaning with a hair dryer

In the absence of a special tool, you can use the usual iron, warming the painted surface through foil.

It is important. The method cannot be applied in areas with electrical wiring, as well as on surfaces that are afraid of heating (plastic, PVC).

The heating method could be considered the cleanest and safe if, when heated, the paint did not produce toxic substances. Therefore, as in the case of a washes, the instruction allows its use only in the ventilated rooms and subject to the use of tools to protect the respiratory organs.

But to use a soldering lamp to soften paint, a gas burner or any other source of open fire is impossible - it is fire-hazard. Especially if the base is wooden.

Mechanized

Mechanized methods accelerate the process, but create a lot of dust and dirt. Therefore, it is necessary to remind you about the need to use a respirator or a marry dressing on the face.

Bulgarian or drill with special nozzles are used as the main tools:

Bulgarian nozzles - wide abrasive circle or round metal brush. To reduce the amount of dust, it is recommended to take an assistant with a vacuum cleaner if it is not possible to use a specialized tool with a built-in vacuum cleaner.

On a drill or perforator, you can fix the crown on brick.

Another paint removal tool is a peeling chain, also fixed on the drill. If it was not possible to find it, you can use any chain with thick links (at least 5 mm in cross section). The links should be an odd quantity: 11, 13 or 15, after after fixing the central level, the length of the chain on both sides was the same - for balance. For the same reason, in case of damage to the links, they are removed from the other side and on the other, until they remain three on each side. In this case, the chain changes to a new one, as it will be inconvenient to work with a short one.

Note. If you are right-hander, a chain drill should be turned on with rotation to the left, if left-handed to the right.

Conclusion

Thermal and chemical methods of cleaning are less labor-intensive, besides, they allow them to do without serious damage to the surface of the base and save subsequently on leveling solutions. But they are the most dangerous to health. Therefore, think well before choosing any of the proposed methods.

Perhaps you will help you in this video in this article.

From the author: Hello, dear readers. As everyone knows, the construction of the house begins with the foundation, and any finishing work - with the preparation of the foundation. Most of us, or rather, more than 85% of people live in buildings that were built during the Soviet Union. And the most popular finishing material at the time for corridors, kitchens, bathrooms and toilets was paint. Today we will talk about how to remove the old paint from the walls.

Let before we closed your eyes on her and glued over the wallpaper or repainted, but the time comes when our aesthetic requirements are rising to the level when we are no longer able to endure the paint. After all, or as much as enjoying on top of it, we will not be able to achieve an ideal result.

Today we will analyze all this topic on the bones, teach you all existing ways to deliver your walls from this ailment. Because they are like simple grandfathers, in which you spend only your physical forces and modern chemicals, where you will be required by the minimum of effort.

And before proceeding with the analysis of flights, I want to pay your attention to what. It has already become clear that you have to not only take off the paint, but also make a whole range of works related to the repair of the room and its finish.

Only once after having passed our articles, you will learn how to independently and without any help to carry out most of the finishing works, choose high-quality products for installation in your apartment or house, as well as understand which tool is worth buying, and how fails after a few hours of work . And now we turn to the topic.

Types of colors

You know, there are a huge number of species, but there is no sense to disassemble them, because only a few are used in everyday, and others are the case one per million. Therefore, in order not to waste time, we will analyze only those that were really applied, and with which we are really faced. So, here they are:

oil is the most squeezed paint look, the removal of which occupies the most time. And all because the basis is a olive or other similar resins and varnishes. The strangest thing is that such paint is faster in disrepair literally in a few years, losing all his appearance. But it is not in a hurry from the walls to be removed from the walls. After applying, it forms a smooth glossy surface, which has absolute immunity to water and moisture. Most often, oil paint was used to dye wooden surfaces or, in extreme cases, walls. And only because it was often not required to buy, but it was possible to get at work at work or take from acquaintances to whom she also went to Blatu;
enalevaya - another worst enemy of many finishing works. If the oil paint did not possess any particular mechanical strength, then this is a real armor-piercing shield. Especially after she stood more than a dozen years and is kindly fossil. Fighting with such an enemy is very difficult and long, but still possible. And all because it is manufactured on a polymer basis using chemical hardeners, solvents and pigments. Yes, all these components cause all the wonderful properties of its properties, but its advantages for coating are reflected in the inverse proportion for a person trying to tear it off;
acrylic - Again, polymer. And any polymer, as you know, is the derivative of the oil industry. But in the manufacture of such paint, more gentle acrylates are used and not so "violent" chemical components as in the manufacture of enamels. Such paint is although it is considered waterproof, but I would not shone the word much loudly. If you do not get the water, it does not get to the water, but when you first try to wash such a paint, she will lose all his pigment or, worse, completely shakes. But still, like paint, it is good, falls on any mineral surfaces smoothly, without divorce. It is a pleasure to work with her, it does not exude unpleasant odors and is not a meat;
water-emulsion - almost the same acrylic, but even a little easier. I assure that if you put three buckets with white paint: acrylic, water-emulsion and well-liquid and diluted lime - you will not understand anything, because they are like two drops of water. True, the properties under consideration are not at all. It will not be possible to compare it even C, because it is not afraid of the water, and our sponge-touched on it. It is possible to work only in the premises of bedrooms or children's, where high environmental friendliness is required, and there is no danger to be evaporated or exposed to moisture and water.

There is another one. Previously, such a painted very, very rarely, because it was not on sale, but it was possible to get only on specialized industries. We say now about silicate. It is completely trouble with her in terms of removal, but as the finishing material is ideal.

Water is not afraid, the fire is not afraid, to spit on the mold, in principle, just like on strikes. Even chemistry does not take it, only gross physical strength. But, I assure you with such a definition, you will not come across, you will rather come from anything listed. And the methods of removing enamel and oil are the same, as well as methods for removing water-emulsion and acrylic.

Options in which the paint is not required or, on the contrary, is strictly forbidden to leave

There are different situations, and not always paint need to be removed from the wall. And sometimes on the contrary - it is categorically impossible to leave it, otherwise all work will go to the cat under the tail. Let's wonder all these moments. Perhaps you have this situation at which there is no need to indulge in these torments. So, in these cases, the old paint can be left:

planned. They will still close the panels, it will be seen nothing, well, why suffer? Of course, it is not worth it. The only thing we need to do is to treat areas on which there is no anti-graded agent. And where we see that she swelled, the bubble we clean the knife or with a hatch and also process this means. Because the paint swollen the fungus, and we do not need to allow its growing;
it is planned to apply exactly the same coating as it was before. See if you have an acrylic emulsion on the wall, and it is in a decent condition: it does not extend the pieces, it did not crack, and in general, it is decently kept - it is not worth doing this. Because on an even non-lagging coating, the acrylic will be successfully applied and will serve no less than if you were all separated from the concrete wall;
the room will be covered with clay or MDF panels. The case identical to the first even when the panel will be attached close to the wall. But they are fixed with screws, and not with any adhesive compositions, therefore, the removal is not required. And in general, it is removed only in those cases when we face the situation that the initial surface will break the adhesion and will become a stumbling block before gluing the base and the applied coating;
on the oil is planned to apply enamel. In this case, you can do without complete deletion, but still preliminary training should be done. And it should include putting on the spacure of the detached sites, the primer, grout and only then - cover the new layer;
blowing vinyl wallpaper. Remember, the layer of old paint will be invisible only under thick vinyl wallpaper, and better also with a relief pattern. If you bought or plan to purchase exactly these, then you can not bother with severe removal. Simply, on a 1 liter of diluted wallpaper glue, add 100 ml of PVA glue, and your wallpaper will not go anywhere, guaranteeing, they will be dead.

So, we figured out. And now about what cases, no matter how cool, but it will have to suffer:

on the surface on which enamel is applied, it is planned to apply an acrylic or water emulsion. The compositions under consideration are not capable of falling on glossy surfaces or on any other, non-absorbent water. They are capable of contacting only with mineral bases, and others will not lie. When you try to try you, it may even seem that you are all deceived, and the paint lay down. That's just the situation that you and the ticket you bought, and went on foot. After drying, you will see that the emulsion has risen into small islands, and transparent threads were formed between them. We will have to redo, so do not carry out experiments;
paper, textile, fliseline or thin will be pasted on the wall. All listed species perfectly reveal the bouquet of shortcomings on the wall. Therefore, if you decide to do so, then be prepared for the fact that all the sublifting, transitions and flaws will be noticeable;

the wall must be spacked or placed. When applying a mineral layer on the paint, you will come across the problem that the putty or plaster does not stick at all and does not hold onto the wall. So you will not even be experimenting.

That's all. But there is, of course, the exception. What we will tell now, you can apply, but it will not give you a 100% result. Rather, this tool is suitable for small volumes in terms of work, or in cases where all the above options are not available.

We are talking now about the use of such a primer as concrete contact. This is a polymer chemically active mixture with a durable adhesive base and quartz sand. The composition of such a soil is such that it is capable of making a glass suitable for the plaster, not what kind of paint there.

But using this method, you can often meet another problem. To the paint, we stick well, but you know how hard the paint is holding around the wall? Perhaps, it is at all on the last bulk and will soon fall off. Well, so, to the method of processing with concrete contact and its subsequent plastering can only be resorted if we are 100% confident in the fortress of the layer being processed.

Removal methods and definition of optimal

This is the most interesting and informative section from our entire story. It is here that we will reveal all the ways of removing this dirtiness and talk about what nuances have. So, there are not so many ways, but each of them is applied pretty often. And now about the specifics:

removal using a soldering lamp. If you do not know, the soldering lamp is such a burner that works on steam of gasoline or kerosene. It pours fuel into it, manually pumped pressure with a small built-in pump, then the valve opens, the torch is set up and the desired burning is adjusted. On one liter you can work for about 20-50 minutes, it all depends on the intensity of the torch. Well, here, almost closely attach the flame to the paint and hear it, naturally, not so that she burns, but only softening. As soon as you see that it was brought to the condition - everything, remove the preheated plot with a spatula. It works, in principle, easy, but for a long time, and the smell in the room is unpleasant. Therefore, you have to work with open windows, which in the winter season is a bit uncomfortable;
the ax - I do not know why, but it is this means most people use. It is that you take an ax, preferably Soviet, with a good metal, and begin to apply on the walls of notches. The length of each is obtained about 30-40 mm, and the width is approximately 5-7 mm. One notch from another should be at a distance of 5-10 mm. Yes, plaster, and putty, but look at this wall. First, the clutch is still not the fact that with a completely remote paint. And secondly, remember: you constantly beat on the wall and often disturb the adhesive connection of the plaster layer with the main wall. Is it worth doing this? No, of course, when using such a method, a danger appears that in a few years all your efforts will be in vain, because it will begin to collapse the main layer of plaster. Yes, it happens not often, but still happens;
construction hairdryer. Almost the same way as with a soldering lamp. The only difference is that the construction hairdryer is much weaker warms, and it is electric. Working so many times slower than if you worked as a soldering lamp. But not such a smell appears, and completely absent smoke;
chemistry. The market is now replete with a variety of paint removal. I myself used so long ago. Some feelings are a miracle! One liter was enough to fully remove all the paint with a bathroom combined with a toilet. Yes, I agree, this liter cost some money, but, you know, I was not a pity, because it is completely unpleasant to suffer with other methods;

bulgarian. The method is popular, but I am not his supporter. Bulgarian, or how to call it correctly, the angular grinding machine is an extremely dangerous thing. If you just knew how many lives would destroy this tool and how many people were injured, then, probably, they would not think about working with her. The danger is that this is a highly blurred tool, usually it is 11,000 revolutions, but meets more, and less. So, when the disc is accidentally destroyed at such a speed, it flies with such speed and energy, which is comparable to a shot from the Makarov pistol. It is very dangerous. And if you decide to remove paint to use not an abrasive circle, but a metal brush, then, again, be careful. Because when particles of metal wire fly out of it, they literally stick into your skin. And okay, when in hand or leg, it's nonsense, but in the eye or face is dangerous, so you always work not just in protective glasses, but only in a protective mask, and you don't even smoothes the casing with the brandy;
drill - Well, and this is the most humane and cheap method to remove paint from the walls. Drill - often the thing is low-robust, and the number of revolutions can be rigidly adjustable, not what on the grinder. Here the choice is between the nozzle-brush, which is not so effectively on small circulation, and the chain, which is optimal. Such a nozzle is a few chain links connected to the washers through the carbine. Rotating, they chop out paint.

With the options, everything, and I advise you to choose between chemistry and a chain nozzle on a drill, because they cleanse the paint effectively, while working is not so dangerous as with a grinder. And below, we will look at how to work with a drill, because it is a cheaper option than the processing of chemical reagents.

Algorithm for performing work

So, we decided on the choice of method, it remains only to understand what and how to do. In order to quickly remove the paint, pass consistently at the following items.

Prepare the power tools, that is, drill. Check out its performance: the cartridge is well held on the shaft, whether there is no backlash, whether the collector and the brush apparatus do not spout, whether the cord will not interrupt somewhere, which is why we can get under the voltage. By the way, a little sparking from under the brushes is allowed, and if it is abundant sparking, which flows with turnplas of revolutions, it is impossible to operate such a tool. Repair required, or rather, polishing the collector and replacing the brushes.
Configure yourself carrying or extension cord, call as you want. Its must be enough for comfortable working with power tools throughout the wall processing area.
Free the room from all the extra pieces of furniture and household appliances, because they will be mercilessly attacked by dust, which will certainly be formed in large quantities. If the case will happen in the kitchen, then, of course, the gas stove will not bring, especially if it is rigidly connected to the gas pipeline. In this case, it will need to be covered with a film. And in general, it is necessary to do with all the items that you cannot remove from the room.
Prepare personal protective equipment, namely: a protective flap or face mask, protective overalls, shoes and a headdress (suitable cap). It is impossible to use gloves. Remember pretty, working with rotating mechanisms - any - in gloves, with long laying hair, with uncoated sleeves, or with hanging flaps of clothing is strictly prohibited. If something like that falls on the shaft, he will die it.
Run the drill without nozzle and adjust the slow revolutions with a circular rotating resistance located on the start button.
Insert the nozzle into the cartridge and hush it well with the key.
Run the drill and rotating part of the nozzle Start touching the wall, making it only with washers, and not the entire chain. Start sequentially removing paint.

Well, that's all readers. Now you know everything you can, about how to remove the paint. And no matter where exactly in the bathroom or in the corridor. The methods of removal from the specifics of the room, of course, do not depend.

And at the end, I want to remind this. Our site is engaged in the issuance of not professional literature, but only informational articles aimed at your acquaintance with the theme. So, if you have a desire to know in detail what and how to do, better consult professional literature. And we do not bring responsibility for your actions. Good luck!

How to remove the old paint, and is it necessary to clean it? Perhaps this question is asked anyone who took the repair in the old apartment. After all, in Soviet times, the most common way to finish the premises, in particular in the kitchens, toilets and the bathroom, it was the color of the walls and the ceilings.

If you decide to get wallpaper in the room, or lay a tile, then you need to remove the paint from the wall. The plated wallpapers on the paint and varnish coating, even if the old one will not be expelled for a long time, and after a while you will be disgasic. And when laying a tile, glue with a painted surface, it simply does not grab. Therefore, for further finishing works, the surface of the wall must be cleaned.

Combination of paint and base

To properly select a paint removal method that is suitable for your specific case, you need to decide on:

What type of base is under the paint.
What is planned to do with the wall surface after paint removal.
What is available tool that will be used to remove paint.
What kind of paintwork material is applied to the wall, the number of layers applied, and what is his grip with the surface of the base.

With the first three items, you decide quickly, and here to find out the type of paint will not succeed at once. But, try to determine the type of paint, still it is worth using the simplest removal methods. However, it is always worth counting on the worst option - a concrete unworthy surface, painted with oil paint.

Tools and materials

Another important factor of successful paint removal is the presence of a tool and some infridable materials.

To remove paint, you may be useful for:

electric grinding machine with a nozzle - a pin;
electric drill with various nozzles;
other type tools: ax, hammer, chisel, handproof and spatula, with which you can beat, scrape or clean the paintwork;
chemical substance - solvent;
construction hairdryer.

Methods for removing paintwork coatings

Mechanical method

It is from this method that all the repairmen begin beginners. The advantage of the mechanical method is not toxic, but a huge minus - the appearance of a huge amount of dust. That is why, using this method, you will need safety glasses, mask or respirator.

For the mechanical method of removal of paint suitable: grinding machine, drill, hammer, chisel, hand tank and even ax.

If you do not use the power tools, dust will be more, but the ax, it will also be hard to work. Therefore, consider each mechanical method in more detail.

1) work with electric grinding machine

When working with it, get ready to protect yourself from the cloud of dust. Dress glasses and mask. To stripping the surface you need to use a special nozzle - a pin in the form of a cup. The cleaning process will be as follows: We work for two minutes, we are waiting for 20-30 minutes when dust is asced. Agree that the use of grinding machine is not the fastest option. However, in modern stores, you can now buy an electric machine with a built-in vacuum cleaner, which will take all the dust in itself.

2) work electric drill

Choosing a drill, try using a few following nozzles:

The colors, this nozzle is made in the form of three connected circuits of 5-10 cm long each.
Corset in the form of a flat disk or cup.
Coroned brick nozzle.

When using the first nozzle, the paint will fly away with small pieces, and less dust, and the plaster-based plaster is not damaged. It is important to consider that the chains in the nozzle are also wear out, and if there are 3-4 levels from the chains, it is necessary to replace the nozzle. Any cruciform is always strongly dust. But, using a crown nozzle, dust will be much smaller, but time you spend much more than when working with the tool with other types of nozzles. With the help of a crown nozzle, the paint is well removed from the concrete surface.

3) work chisel and hammer

The work method is as follows: we apply chisel to the painted wall and beat the hammer on it. Agree, it is quite simple, but this process will be very tedious and long. And before the start of work, do not forget to stock chisels, as they are quickly blinking. In order for the paint better to be removed, it is necessary to determine for itself the optimal corner of the chisel direction to the wall.

4) work ax

We take the ax and hit the painted surface, inflicting frequent short serifs in the wall. After such blows, the surface becomes rough. Next, we water the wall with water and wait until you do. All actions repeat again, removing the residues of paint. This method will save your budget, but will require a great physical activity. Just as with a chisel, the corner of the blade of the wall - plays an important role.

Chemical method

In theory, to remove the paint, it is required to apply the solvent, then wait for 10-20 minutes and repeat the procedure, and 5-6 times. As a result, the paint coating should begin to flap from the wall, which can be finally removed by a simple spatula. But in reality, the chemical solution, it practically will not have any effect on the paint-watering age from 2 or more years. The chemical method will suit more, for cleaning recently painted walls.

It is worth noting that the chemical method is unsafe option. Here, you need to always use points, mask and rubber gloves, and the windows indoors are to keep open - for venting. During the chemical processing of walls, children and pets should be located in the room. Another minus - after chemical treatment, for several days there remains a strong smell in the room.

Thermal method

In order to remove the paint, use the construction hairdryer. Best of all he removes paint from a tree surface. We direct the hot air and we are waiting for the paint coating to swell. Then simply consider the resulting mass with a spatula.

Given the simplicity of work and the lack of dust, construction hairdryer, it is not desirable to work near outlets and electrical wiring. Another important point, there are such paints that when heated, the opposite is stronger grapped with the base, so first melting on a small segment of the wall. Using a construction hairdryer, it must be remembered that the paint is toxic and easily flammable and can light up at any time. Therefore, it is possible to use the construction hairdryer only when all the safety rules are met.

Summarize

The mechanical method can be attributed to the most common methods of cleaning the old paint, using, as a hand tool (hammer, ax, chisel) and electrical instruments (grinding machine, drill). This method is the safest, but requires good physical fitness, and during work, all the premises are filled with dust. The chemical or thermal method is less secure for humans. That is why, maybe it is worth choosing the easiest option - a hammer with a chisel, or an electric drill. In the end, the result is more important, and it can be achieved in different ways.

Stamp

Cosmetic repair is a troublesome business. Especially when it can not be continued because of the layerold paints on the walls orceiling. To make plasterers or other materials freely for the base under the paint, it must be removed. But it is advisable to be able to know how to remove the oil paint from the walls.

What is the old coating from the walls

Paint with concrete wall Remove before the restoration of the walls andceilkov , equalizing putty, plaster, tile or wallpaper sailing. Otherwise, on the surface there will be no bulk glue nor the construction mixture.

If the painted wall Cream plasterboard sheets, clapboard or panels, then top layerremove at will.

A predetermined wall decoration will save time and money.

Instruments

To remove oil paint Use tools:

Construction hairdryer or soldering lamp.
Spatula, sharp knife, chisel, ax for serifs.
Brush (old).
Chemical washes.
Electrical devices (Bulgarian, drill, perforator).
Tool nozzles.

Ways to remove oil paint from walls

Mechanical

The method is laborious, but at the same time cheap.Old paint on concrete walls and ceiling floorsremove with ax.

Process course:

Wall or ceiling wet water;
make burgers;
Cleans oil coatings from the wall.

In this manner remove the old oil paint from the walls For a reliable clutch of the surface with a solution (before alignment or overlooking the surface with tiles).

Chemical

For washes use chemicals -washing for oil paint. In cleansing solvents contain chemical reagents that soften andclean the layer of any paints.

chemical washes are applied to concrete , plastered or metal surface with roller or brush;
cleaning Start after the expiration of the time specified on the packagewashed. Funds Together with the paint remove spatula, scraper or knife;
If the paint has not taken The procedure is repeated.

After removing the old oil paint garbage and restwashing Do not dispose of in the ground or in the sewer.

Draft works are carried out in rooms withgood ventilation becausemeans for removal paints contain chemicals andsolvents which cause poisoning or burns of mucous membranes.

After oil paint removal from ceiling or walls, located indoors where it was producedwashing It is impossible until the smell is completely disappeared.

The wash is purchased in the store or make themselves.Sweep can be lime or liquid glass (funds are applied toconcrete Walls and leave for a day). After applying such compositions on the surface of the dried solution oroil Paint is easily removed by a spatula.

Best Means for washing - "Antikras-Universal". It is suitable for all types of surfaces and coatings. Cost - 300 rubles for 5 kg.

Thermal

Old coating easycleared From the surface as follows:

concrete The surface is heated with a hairdryer or soldering lamp;
Paint removes Immediately after turning off the tool.

Replace the construction hairdryer can be iron to stroke tissues. In this case, the surface is heated through foil.

Such a way Cleaning can not be used forold Surfaces in which electrical wires and for plastic walls pass.

ABOUT dean from the most "patients" questions arising in cosmetic and capital repairs - how and how to remove or remove the old paint. The task is not easy, because when creating new types of paints, their manufacture, the task of developers is directly opposite - how to make paint stable and stronger. Nevertheless, ways to clean surfaces from old paint exist, and many of them, we will also tell me further.

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Video version of the article

Let's start with removal, removal from various surfaces of the coating of oil (alkyd) paints. There are three ways that this task is solved: thermal, mechanical and chemical, as well as different combinations thereof. The most common of these methods is thermal, with partial use of mechanical cleaning.

Thermal way to remove old paint (heating)

This process is performed as follows: the old paintwork is heated to the softening temperature and in this state is considered a steel spatula. Heating coating is performed using a soldering lamp, a gas burner or an industrial hair dryer.

The thermal method is simple, effective, but has its drawbacks and restrictions. For example, it will not be possible to remove the paint from the plastic, since most plastics begin to deform for two hundred degrees Celsius. In addition, the use of devices that create a jet of hot fire is not always safe. In the closed rooms, another factor restricting the use of the thermal method is entered into, is the release of toxic substances from the paints when heated.

A large disadvantage of the thermal method of cleaning from old paint is also the fact that with it can be cleaned far from any surface, even if there is a heat-resistant. It is not very effective when cleaning massive metal surfaces.

If the question arises how to remove the old paint from the tree, then the heating is indispensable, especially when the wooden product was covered with paint for a long time, layer per layer. When heating, such a thick layer is swollen with bubbles and is readily, leaving a clean surface suitable for new staining without any additional preparation.

The technology of using thermal paint cleaning is simple: one hand hold the heating device, directing the flame or hot air to the surface, moving the jet as the paint is softened, and the other hand, in the course of the movement, are softened with a spatula. The skill of work simultaneously with two hands is produced literally for ten - fifteen minutes.

There are also nozzles from metal chains, often homemade, to remove paint with a drill - this method is rude, but often convenient.

In addition to the specified tools, there are more specialized devices - plane grinding machines and credit mills. The latter are effective when cleaning with paint plastered, stone, concrete and other, similar surfaces, however, for metal are unsuitable.

The plane grinding machines for painting oil compositions are ineffective, since the sandpaper quickly comes in disrepair, causing paint, but sometimes, especially if high-quality processing of small areas is needed, they are not replaceable. In addition, most of the water makers are well removed.

The technology of cleaning the old paint with power tools is even easier than in the thermal method: the working part of the tool is pressed against the surface being processed and as the desired degree of cleaning is achieved, it gradually moves.

Another tool that will help in removing the old paint - the perforator. With the help of a wide shovel nozzle, often homemade, you can remove the old paint from concrete bases, knocking it by a perforator. The disadvantage of this method is that together with the paint it is possible to damage the basis itself, so this method is more suitable for the removal of paints from durable concrete. Together with the paint, such a way is well removed by the shtlock and plaster, with →.

Sandblasting method for removal, removal of old paint

Another common method of mechanical cleaning from old paint is sandblasting. The principle of sandblasting is that a jet of air or water is directed to a purified surface under high pressure, into which abrasive particles are added (most often - ordinary sand). Peschinki, hovering at high speed about the surface, it is perfectly cleaned not only from paint, but also from rust, from various kinds of other persistent contaminants.

The disadvantages of the sandblasting method include the relatively high cost of the equipment and the need to have certain skills for servicing devices and the production of the work itself.