All modern kitchen headsets have mounted cabinets in their configuration. They allow saving space, possessing good capacity. Located at the level of the eye, such lockers are very convenient during operation and they are always filled with a large number of things, creating a serious load on attachments. Therefore, it is very important to produce reliable and high-quality fasteners of the cabinet to the wall.

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Selection of the height of the cabinet

Before starting the attachment of mounted cabinets to the wall, you need to correctly pick up the height for their hitch. It is determined on the basis of the main criterion - the growth of the owner of the kitchen. On average, the distance is approximately 50-60 cm from the table top to the bottom of the mounted cabinets. According to GOST, this value is leveling 45 cm.

In the event that the lockers are required above the refrigerator or over a high brass cabinet, then the height of these items and determines the desired level of cabinets.

Existing cabinet sample mechanisms

The use of modern fastening fittings greatly simplifies the work, which is associated with the hitch of kitchen cabinets. It allows you to eliminate small errors in applying markup and increases the strength of the entire design. At the same time, efforts will need quite a bit, and you can do all the work yourself, without any help.
For fastening the cabinet to the wall, a specially prepared rail is mainly used, which is called a hitch.

The hook is equipped with a crochet, which is fastened from the inside to the side wall of the locker and remains unobedient from the side.

Mounting Planck

In the first way, the hitch is on the mounting bar.

The advantages of this method:

• all work can well be performed by one person, as there is no need to support the closet when markup is made. This greatly facilitates the task, and also allows you to hang cabinets with high accuracy;
• thanks to the special adjusting screws, the location of the cabinets can be changed by making them higher below, as well as bring closer to the wall or remove from it. This mechanism allows you to almost accurately align the wardrobe, which is quite difficult, and when using conventional loops, it is not always impossible;

• on the tire for the closet, there are specially made notches with which you can easily adjust its length;
• all the necessary installation can be carried out even when the kitchen apron is already attached;
• no need to use a border for alignment;
• it is quite easy to make not only the installation on the rail, but also to make dismantling. Basically the hitch of kitchen cabinets, in this way, takes no more than 1.5 hours.

Disadvantages:

• first of all, the high cost of the entire set, which includes an assembly rail and hitch. But this is not such a serious problem, considering that as a result, a lot of time saves;
• another disadvantage of this method is that due to the loose fit of the cabinet to the wall, a small gap is noticeable at the top of the top.

Furniture loops

The second way is more affordable, but will take more time, you can also need additional help. It will use loops and fastening elements.

Initially, the upper boundary is determined and the horizontal line is applied along the length of all cabinets that you want to suspend.

Then the level is determined by the accuracy of its drawing (there are cases when the result is distorted due to uneven sex).

The first point marks the resulting line, the hole is made using a perforator or drill and fasteners are installed. The case is then taken, and temporarily suspended to determine the place of the next fastener with absolute accuracy. At the same time, one should not be guided by a fixed line, but the evenness of the cabinet itself must be checked.

The entire further process is made similarly. When all the cabinets are attached and their location is checked by the level, you can begin to connect their furniture screws with each other. The final stage of work is the installation of a connecting decorative eaves, which is screwed to the upper base with screws.

Now it remains only to hang out the facades, install the shelves, doors work normally, and if there is a need to correct inaccuracies using adjusting screws. All this process requires concentration and good attention, as well as an insightful assistant, without the help of which it is quite difficult to correctly calculate the required distance under fasteners.

Construction of the rear wall of the mounted cabinet

The progress of work on the jacket will be directly dependent on the design of the back wall of the hinged cabinets.

In the first case, the rear wall is nails and does not have rectaging. Therefore, when you hide on the mounting bar, the upper part will not fit tightly, and the cabinet will turn out with a slope. To avoid this, the indent must be provided at the bottom of the cabinet, which corresponds to the width of the mounting plank. To do this, you can navigate a thin rail or calculate the height of its hitch in such a way that it "came" to the kitchen apron. In the latter case, the fasteners should already be produced when installed kitchen apron.

In the second case, the rear wall is attached with the deepening.

This design of mounted cabinets is more convenient, as it allows you to hang them not only in the back of the kitchen apron, but also an online jack. But when installing cabinets without adhesion, it is important that the apron is located perfectly smoothly, as even a small blockage immediately rush into the eyes.

How to attach a closet to the wall using a mounting plank

Preparatory work

• It is desirable that the walls are smoothly aligned;
• if the work is performed on the corner kitchen, the angle formed by the walls should be exactly 90 degrees;
• all work on the electrical installation, placement of outlets for drawing, the conclusions of the upper luminaires must be completed;
• you should also immediately prepare the wall on which lockers will hang. It must be painted or covered with wallpaper and fasten the kitchen apron in advance. Since with installed cabinets do it all will be extremely difficult.

Instruments

To high-qualityly hang kitchen cabinets at hand need to have the following tools:

• drill - can be electrical or manual. It is needed to drill holes under the fasteners. If you have to work on the bearing wall, you will need a perforator or drill with such a function;
• level;
• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• a hammer;
• clamps - auxiliary tool that will be required if you wish to connect boxes with each other to create the effect of the monolith of the entire structure;
• if the installation is performed on an anchor, then the wrench will be required;
• well, by itself, that it will be necessary to prepare the required amount of fasteners. To fasten the shedding to the cabinets, screws are needed (as a rule, manufacturers are equipped with hinged cabinets). To fasten the mounted tire to the wall, screws with dowels will be required. If you wish, you can buy special ties for fastening cabinets with each other.

How to fix a wardrobe to the wall - step by step instructions

First of all, using the adjusting screws, you must fix the hooks in the middle position. After that, they are attached from the inside on the side walls in such a way that the tap peep out the outside is only 2-3 millimeters and could be freely cling to the fastening bar.
Now you can proceed to apply markup on the wall. This should be guided by the main rules:

• if the location of mounted cabinets depends on large-sized kitchen equipment or high items, then at the time of marking, they must be put into place;
• when hiding on the mounting rail, you need to know in advance, whether the cabinets will be installed on the kitchen apron, or still closely with it;
• the mounting plate must be located down the top edge of the section by 3-4 cm. To correctly calculate this distance, it is necessary to attach a bar to the back wall of the cabinet, so that it will be attached on the wall. Then it will be clearly seen how many centimeters will need to take into account when applying the final markup.

Taking into account all these recommendations, with the help of a level, two lines are applied, ranging from the corner of the kitchen. Of these, one feature shows the top edge of the attached rail, and the second indicates the top of the cabinets.
Tip: In order to determine the horizontal position of the cabinets, it is best to use the level, and not measure the distance from the ceiling or floor, as it may occur in errors. Even if there is confidence that the ceiling or floor is quite smooth, do not risk, otherwise you will have to redo all the work again.

The top edge of the bar is pressed to the prepared markup line (lower) and make the required number of marks for fastening holes.

If the walls are durable and have a good bearing capacity, it is quite possible to divide the rail into small pieces of 15 cm, and each of them is set in those places where the canopies will be located. But if there are at least the slightest doubts about the strength of the walls, you should not share the rail, but on the contrary, it is more steadily fixing it to a greater number of fasteners.

• often you can face such a problem when at the very beginning of drilling a drill as it should jump. To eliminate this discomfort in drilling places, a small excavation is made. They are made using a hammer of a bandwicker or, with its absence, along a strong nail;
• if when drilling the wall it crumble, then for a start it is worth it to make a slightly smaller diameter, and then expand its drill of the desired size. Thus, it turns out much careful;
• to measure the depth of drilling, the prepared dowel is taken, applied to the drill and accurately remembered the desired distance. If the hole has already done and has come a turn to score a dowel into it, then you need to make sure that the depths are enough. Too deep hole will make work uncomfortable;
• in a concrete wall, it is rather difficult to drill a hole, even using a drill with a winning tip. Therefore, in the absence of a perforator, a pair of non-molk strikes with a hammer on the displacement;
• during work, special attention should be paid to the places where the wiring passes.

Then a dowel is neatly driven into the holes, and the mounting rail is installed on the fasteners. On her, with the help of a hitch, cabinets are attached. Their position is regulated by screws that are equipped with hinged mechanisms.

To create the effect of the cabinet over the wall, it will be necessary to connect them tightly with each other. To do this, they need to pairwise fix the clamps, starting from the corner cabinet. In order not to spoil their surface, the wooden wedge should be put between the cabinet and the clamp.

To prevent this problem, you will need to apply one of the two ways to be applied:

• in places where the drill comes out, it is necessary to give a wooden bar strongly (the more denser, the better);
• initially, a thinner through hole is drilled, and then, the drill of the desired diameter, it expands on both sides.

On this fastening of mounted cabinets, it remains only to install the shelves, fasten the doors and adjust them with the screws that are on the loop.

Our masters will qualitatively fulfill all the work on the rehabilitation of your furniture:, alignment of doors and boxes, assembly or after moving, mounting to the wall, etc ..

Incorrect furniture loses its attractiveness, a technical failure in the functionality of mechanical parts occurs. The load on the supporting structures is unevenly distributed, thereby sagging the collappers with the subsequent threat of internal collapse. The doors at the opening of the furniture bases of the top or bottom, the edge hovers on the ends, in the closed state, the door begins and only partially adjacent to the case. It is advisable to correct this situation in a timely manner, since the structure of parts in the furniture begins to undergo changes, which are subsequently impossible to eliminate at home. The manufacturer often forgets to complete accessories with connecting elements for a full screed of vertical panels in sectional furniture - walls, slides, children's. When assembling furniture, the module connection is necessary for security purposes - high narrow cabinets with high doors are rather unstable and require mounting to the wall of the room or, using a cross-sectional screed, to a large cabinet. In the kitchen furniture there is a connection of mounted shelves and lower cabinets. The intersection screed when the shelves is hiding the additional stimulus of reliable fastening.

Proper installation when the floor surface is irregular.

Initially, the collected enclosures are set up by level, the highest point is recorded in the furniture system, and furniture aligns it. Some cabinet models are equipped with adjusting legs, with the help of the adjusting screw, the sides of the structures rise to a certain distance from the floor. In the absence of adjusting legs, we use wooden clins. For example, with all the housings are leveling one line and are tightened with each other. The intersection screed records the installed product. Installation of connecting accessories is carried out by driving a hole with a diameter relative to the screed. For reliable fixation, the screed is performed in several places, at the top and bottom of the design. Screw tie can be hidden under the rocket. The rehabilitation process of previously installed furniture is possible with partial disassembly. Doors and eaves are removed, drawers and shelves are removed. After alignment and installation of the intersection screed, all the facades and internal filling occupy their places. It is not recommended to push the cabinets or the coulutes, put up at the level, unevenly standing, as the framework of furniture undergoes a change in geometry, disturbing the functionality of all parts.

Now designers at the interior arrangement are increasingly and more often use built-in household appliances, furniture items - beds, wardrobes, tables, and more. This approach in the decoration of the situation allows you to save space in small rooms. In modern interiors, built-in wardrobes of different shapes are widely used, they are made of artificial and natural building materials (wood, plastic).

Sliding wardrobes are used in bedrooms, living rooms, hallways

If you are at home or apartment do it yourself, you like to make furniture yourself without resorting to the help of specialists, it is important to know how to competently approach the process of assembling interior items. This is especially true of those who make the first steps in this direction. Thus, update the furniture, save a significant amount.

Drawing of the built-in wardrobe in niche

Most homemade craftsmen choose for the manufacture and assembly of a wardrobe. It occupies a leading position among other types of furniture - universal, capacitive, can be of various shapes and magnitude, he does not need much space to open the doors. For these and many other reasons, people choose a wardrobe. Following step-by-step assembly and installation guide, it can be mounted in a short time.

Instructions for assembling the cabinet compartment do it yourself

Why preferably to assemble furniture yourself? There are many reasons for it.

1. You can design a wardrobe of any form, which whatever you want to make some kind of highlight, realize any idea. Even if you refer to the specialists, you probably have many "go" to spend time and effort to embody your dreams into reality, trying to dissuade you, or ask the fabulous amount.
2. Collecting furniture yourself, you fully take all the work under your control and you will be sure that no "shoals" will not be.
3. The necessary material and fittings you will acquire yourself by choosing a quality product.
4. Making furniture with your own hands will give you a lot of pleasure, because such things create a completely different atmosphere in the house, you will be proud of the work done.
5. This work may be inhabited so much that you will think about creating your own business, starting to make furniture for friends familiar.
6. There will be no such original and unique cabinet anymore - this is your designer project.
7. In addition to the forefront, the manufacture and assembly of furniture will significantly save a family budget.

Necessary materials

Popular materials for making cabinets

Do not rush to collect a wardrobe from which it fell, decide on the material.

Sliding doors for wardrobes

Tools for assembling the cabinet compartment do it yourself

Adhering to instructions and schemes, the following tools will be needed for the assembly: level (this device will help collect the wardrobe perfectly), corner, hammer (including rubber), screwdriver with cruciform and direct nozzle, ruler, roulette, pencil, screwdriver, drills Tree and metal, sandpaper.

In addition, the auxiliary tools -lobzik, drill, may be needed. Check that the material and fittings match the scheme.

Council of the specialist. Very often, when making a wardrobe, do it yourself make the doors to order. They are already mounted videos, as well as a strip of soft material. Install the doors at the end of all works.

Collect the carcass

Stages of self-assembly of standard cabinet

How to collect a wardrobe. First you need to install the base.

Base of the wardrobe

Usually, such a stove is attached to substavits that are located along the long side, using confirmates (these are eurgowrup, which have a deepening in the Hat under a special hex key).

Special drill for confirmation, confirmation with plug and hex key for confirm

Next you need to position the inner partitions. There are holes on their lower face, where it is necessary to mount the ducts before installing. What is a witch? This is a small part of the rod round section, which serves to fix the wood compounds.

Wooden wicker for furniture assembly

In the bottom plate there are no non-separation openings, they are provided under such wrenches. By connecting the ducts and openings, we make the installation of vertical partitions in the desired place (here without assistant can not do). So that the design is stable, fix the shelves, which in this case serve as ribs stiffness. Fix them using confirmates. Fasteners at this step must be twisted completely.

Fastening the walls with the help of Eurovines

We produce the final frame assembly - set the sidewalls and the top cover. All these elements must be mounted immediately. Let's just say, on this stage of work, structural features and location on them are fastened.

Installing the side and inner walls of the cabinet

At first, fix with the bottom of the sidewall, fastening them to the pione confirm. Then put the top part and the same, alike all the holes, fasten the fastener. It is necessary to provide a free course due to the fact that it should be aligned the whole base.

The base is connected to the case using the corners of the confirm

Align the design

Check diagonals of the cabinet during self-assembly

To align, you need to follow follow-up. With the help of a tape measure, at first, one diagonal is measured, then the other and on the difference received values \u200b\u200bdetermine where it is necessary to move the top of the cabinet so that its angles are completely straight. By this way alignment, fully spin the confirmates.

You feed the sheets of chipboard

Fastening the back wall of the wardrobe

The subsequent assembly step is to feed the fiberboard on the root side of the structure. These sheets not only form the back wall, but will also reliably keep the design, not allowing it to loosen over all the time of use. Typically, it has decorative treatment on the right side, it looks like a laminated color surface. Sheets are fixed with small nails, they are clogged into the ends of each piece of furniture.

Here it is fundamentally necessary to determine the place where the nails knock, because from the back side, the elements of furniture are not visible, and defects that are obtained as a result of an incorrect choice, negatively affect the outdoor view of the cabinet.

We place rails - guides

Installing the positioner or stopper in the bottom guide cabinet

Go to an important point - mount rails for doors. The lower rail has two gutters for sliding rollers. The top is divided into two compartments. In both, you must initially drill holes so that with the help of screws to fix them to the base and the upper part, the holes must have a chamfer.

Drilling top guide for door cabinet coupe

Four holes on each bar is enough. First, fix the bottom rail, making markup in the right places. The interval from the edge of the base to the front edge should be 2.5 cm.

Installing the upper guide when assembling a wardrobe

To make the doors freely move, install the cabinet strictly horizontally using the level for this. It is desirable that it be more authentic. The upper rail is fixed like the bottom only with the difference that the holes are flipped in a checker order in all compartments. Fasten them on screws. From the front end of the top prior to the start of the base of the rail, the interval must be 2 mm.

The lower guide profile is set with an indent of 15 mm from the edge of the chipboard

Mount the rods and accessories

Installing a rod in a wardrobe

In conclusion, you need to install rods for the location of the outerwear. At first, it is necessary to make a markup where the first holder will be recorded (it is necessary for it 3 screws), drill and tighten the screws. Then we set the second holder on the rod and press the screw. The resulting design at first need to try, if necessary, align horizontally, and then place and fix as the first.

Installing boxes when assembling with your own hands

Turn the doors

Door arrangement scheme (top view)

After all the works performed, you can install doors. But first it is necessary to check the gutter in the bottom plank for the presence of garbage - it hurts the free movement of the rollers. We again check the horizontal of the planes, as well as that all connections are well fixed.

Construction of sliding doors wardrobe

Rightly hang the doors - the first thing insert into the upper rail, then the end rollers must be placed in the groove of the bottom.

Installation of doors to guides

Adjusting doors when installing in a wardrobe

How to collect a wardrobe with your own hands. In theory, there is nothing difficult in assembling a wardrobe, it is necessary to competently approach the assembly process, to show patience and accuracy. In the end, you will not only save funds, in the house you will have an original piece of furniture, which will transform the interior of the room.

Video: How to collect a wardrobe with your own hands. Furniture store "Furniture"

Here are some tips.

• Sometimes the irregularities of the floor can be corrected by laying a wage or chipboard under the closet.
• With a slightly inclined floor, the right solution of the problem is to put a wardrobe on the adjustable legs, ideally align the bottom, and then close the legs bevelled basement.
• If the curvature of the walls is insignificant, it is not necessary to align them, and the door can be rejected to the desired angle using adjusting screws.
• Frequent problem of the wardrobe - a bad doorway. Possible cause can be broken lower rollers. It is easy to eliminate. At the ends of the vertical framework at the bottom under the brush (Schlegem) there are two holes. One of them is intended to adjust the lower wheels in height, this is done using a hexagon. By adjusting the lower wheels, you can not only raise or lower the doors for 2-3 cm, but also to align the door if it twisted and does not fully adjacent to the sidebar of the cabinet.
• Even with a deviation of 5 mm, you can forget about the interchangeability of the doors, because Each door is adjustable in its side wall. When moving the door to the next place, the angular slit between it and the second side wall is obtained. That is why smooth walls are so important for the built-in ward. Also, the interchangeability of doors is not to achieve if the floor is inclined or has a wave-like shape.
• Additional floor inside the cabinet wardrobe is not only a decorative element, but also the method of leveling the main floor.
• The ceilings must either align the built-in wardrobe, or order a cabinet with a ceiling. For even a small curvature of the ceiling makes the door of the door of the cabinet "heavy". Similarly, than an even if the floor, the better the doors ride.
• In the curvature of the walls will have to put a M-shaped false panel, which is adjusted by the irregularities of the wall. As a rule, this is the only way to align the wardrobe with uneven walls and the floor.
• The difference between the vertical sizes of the side of the cabinet should not exceed 20 mm. If it is impossible to align there is a single output - install a false panel, podium or roof.

Of course, the European Fashion for Built-in Furniture brought a special charm into the modern interior of the Russian man in the street. But together with interesting solutions in the daily practice of furniture manufacturers, housing architectures were included. If earlier the buyer was pleased with the rescue for the cabinet from instability, any layer of paper or a sheet of paper or a plate was served, today it is clearly no one to put up with a rigorous position of the furniture attribute, gaping the lumens between the walls or oblique geometry of the interpostic space. Times are not!

Embedded furniture compositions fell to taste not only because of their aesthetic appeal. Their ability to significantly expand or visually reduce the spatial environment of the home appreciated the hosts of communal and small apartments. However, to this day, at the installation of even the most ordinary cabinet model, many experts face unpleasant "surprises" - uneven floors, walls and ceiling. This often makes the manufacturer "break the head" above the next masterpiece of furniture.

Degree solid all?

Built-in furniture, the production of which many companies are engaged in today, are manufactured by individual orders. Unlike the factory, which is manufactured with standard sizes, the built-in has a direct dependence on the parameters of the room area, where the geometry of the room is equally important. In particular, it is important for cabinets, because in the standard version it has a rectangular shape, and ideally smooth floor, walls and ceiling are needed for embedding. Unfortunately, the majority of the owners of apartments cannot boast the impeccable design of their home, and the problems of uneven surfaces lie entirely on the shoulders of furniture makers. At the stage of measurement, experts fix the slope of the floor and the ceiling, the fall of the walls and, depending on the values \u200b\u200breceived, are made by one or another solution.

Setting questions with surface leveling involves different options. Since the purpose of alignment in the main mass is the aesthetic attractiveness of the premises, then the specialists are repelled from the visual perception of the geometry of the room. And the picture is far from always harmonious. For example, if the wall is found on the wall with a height of only 1 cm, then, most likely, it will notice and will be offered in the future. However, if the wall is littered with 5 cm, no one will notice the nice eye. It will also look quite acceptable if the angle of the room will not be 90, but 87 or 93 degrees. That is why, even quite expensive repairs are often made by the "according to rule" method, which means aligning surfaces, obtaining smooth planes, but not bringing the corners between them to 90 degrees. This method saves cash, since in the repair process spend less dry mixtures.

It is this method of alignment that is not suitable for apartments where the wardrobe or other built-in furniture is planned. Since only one degree of deviation from the direct angle gives a gap of about 1 cm. And deviations from direct angle can reach several degrees. This is why already at the stage of repair of the apartment, it is advisable to plan the location of cabinets and other furniture attributes in advance and take care of the geometry of the rooms. This method of alignment is called "By Lighthouses". However, when the uneven dwelling geometry does not allow to correct the deplorable state of the walls, the ceiling or floor, and the customer's cabinet or kitchen certainly wants the built-in, the quality of furniture will be directly dependent on the qualification of the collector.

"In principle, the irregularities of the floor surface of up to three cm is not critical to install the embedded cabinet. A modern aluminum system allows you to bring it all to the required level. When this value is over three centimeters, you have to use the panels on the sides to compensate for the gap, which is obtained on the sides of both walls. Either the second option is a wedge on the ceiling or on the floor depending on the problem plane. Today, uneven walls and gender are found in 99% of measurements. In my practice, about 2-5% of orders were adjusted under the design conditions of the home, where the installation of cabinets implied the introduction of additional solutions. Moreover, in the main mass of the measurers faced with the problems of mounting in the private sector, where the uneven floor or the wall is the most frequent phenomenon, "says Darra Furniture LLC Danil Biryukov.

According to some furniture makers, an uneven floor is not a hindrance to the kitchen. And all due to the fact that the kitchen bedside tables are put on the legs with a height of 10 cm, which can be adjusted in height within a few centimeters. In general, the base closes 10 cm space in which you can make almost everything to stand the nightstands. Everything is much more complicated with the wardrobes. The door of the cabinet move on wheels, which, of course, are also adjustable. But at the same time, first, the adjustment range is limited to one centimeter. Secondly, with a large slope, the doors will move under the influence of gravity or, at a minimum, to move them to both sides will have to be different with different effort, which, you see, absolutely not comfortable. Therefore, with a large slope of the floor, the doors are put on the podium, exposed by level. So at the time of installing the euphoria from a successful purchase can evaporate only because the ceiling to cover in the closet is not so simple, and the design of the furniture attribute of Togo and look at any touch will begin to "walk", and in general the cabinet will be Have a non-readable view.

As a rule, many people do not attach much importance to how one company approaches the question of curvature, but today it is possible to fight with this problem quite successfully.

Falseplanka

Due to such a simple invention as a raisedplanka, furniture makers in certain situations cope with uneven housing surfaces. This saving element is set when the wall has a vertical location or a slope within 1-10 mm, as well as with a small wave. The gap between the wall and the cabinet is reduced by pressing the raised brake to the wall, or fixing vertically through the gaskets. At the same time, the resulting gap often has to be embedded by splocks, smeasters or silicone. Alternatively, it is covered with a plastic decorative corner, which has a penny price, but helps to hide small disadvantages of furniture problems. Planks are the most aesthetic option, easy to manufacture and install.

Of course, the walls are not aligned with them, but the small irregularities they hide completely capable. In the cabinets they were involved in the reason that the brush brush pasted on the door-compartment over the years leaves the dirty mark on the wall or wallpaper. And the use of the plank protects the wall from pollution.

Restrictions on the application of slats differ for the wardrobe and swing doors. For example, by adjusting screws, the coupe can be tilted up to 20-25 mm. Suppose when the wall slope in 20-25 mm, theoretically, this step will be the solution. But again, the probability of jamming the door is created when moving to the opposite wall. And if there is also an uneven floor here, then a very ugly clearance is formed from the bottom between the horizontal bar and the coupe and floor. Since one door corner is greatly raised, the whole beauty of the facade will come to no, so it is desirable to use the bar only in the case when the wall slope does not exceed 10 mm, at least exactly no more than 15 mm. When it takes about swinging doors, then the limit on the slope of the walls is more hard - not more than 1 mm. So if the slopes of the walls are absolutely not stacked in the standards of the manufacturer, and each of them today has their own, then a more acceptable element to combat uneven surfaces is a box.

Ku

The most popular solutions in the execution of boxes are P-shaped and M-shaped species. For a M-shaped box adaptive, the thickness of the constructive is 7-10 cm, which is exhibited vertically. Then draw the curvature or the tilt of the wall, and only after that begin to be installed. The popularity of such elements from producers is due to the fact that it is not necessary to use precise measurements for its use and the cabinet will rise in the required place as the blade. Often the box is allowed all over the perimeter of the cabinet. On the one hand, it does not add to the aesthetic highlight of embedded furniture. But it is a great way out of the situation when the walls, the floor or ceiling have strong deviations from the vertical (horizontal) or curvature. Of course, you need to be prepared for the fact that some furniture makers will offer exactly an option with a box due to ease of installation, even when the wall slope is 5 mm. Since there is no time during measurements, there is no time from a specialist, and often a desire to explore almost every centimeter of the building. In a conversation with the designer, the same measurer for reinsurance will insist on the application of the box, so as not to be mistaken or not to allow a substantial slip with the order, as well as not to divert the company's reputation.

Non-standard solutions

Of course there are alternative ways to deal with curvature. The most exotic and unlikely - the door curves. Suppose, when the wall slope for 3 cm it will be necessary to put the box, but the next moment arises: immediately it will be to rush into the eyes of the wedge. After all, the more distance, the stronger the difference in width is visible. However, if all the same 3 cm run on the door, then because of its width, this difference will not be visible, and the wardrobe "from the wall to the wall" will be without hateful boxes. At the same time, the manufacture of such a solution, namely the door curves, requires a special approach and responsibility, for not only the high accuracy of measurements, but also technological calculations is necessary. And this design can be trite incorrectly collectable, confusing the bottom with the top.

Another way to get rid of boxes is the simulation of a 32 mm plank. When the soles of the edges are trimmed along the uneven right wall, and the left for the corner is made on the left, and the result is more than a presentable cabinet. Such a solution is used in relation to the side panels when the manufacturer is killing two hares, the lack of direct corners between the back wall of the niche and the side walls becomes a solid problem and the customer will receive a wardrobe without any gnesks. Accordingly, the installation of such planks is a bit more complicated to fit the box, but the result justifies the costs of time and strength.

Support

Of course, even the most ideal furniture on uneven surfaces begins to behave enough capriciously: rattles, scroll by the doors and strives to "fall" on the side. Someone in the old manner puts under the supports of a plate and chips. But this method is far from the ideal, especially if the house slowly and truly gives a shrinkage, and with him and the floor changes its bias. Now, to compensate for the irregularities of the floor, furniture manufacturers supply cabinets and stands adjustable supports. Moreover, the adjustment process becomes bye not only by professional furniture collector, but also to the consumer itself only with the help of a simple M-shaped hexagon key. Almost all cabinet furniture today has adjustable supports, and the key is attached included. However, not all manufacturers report this in annotations to products.

The modern approach of furniture manufacturers in solving problems with uneven surfaces found its reflection in the complete set of furniture with special supports, allowing to change the height of the working surface up to 50 mm. Thus, the height difference can be eliminated if it is competent to use the functionality of the base legs when installed on the uneven floor.

The simplest adjustable support is represented by a set of screws with a plastic hat and a response part, for example, a conventional nut for the leg with an external thread, "weak" nut or an angular bracket. The leg adjustment is made by screwing the screw into the opposite part by manually or screwdriver. The disadvantage of this design is the need for repeated unloading, turning of the legs, movement of the cabinet there and back to assess the productivity of height adjustment. For heavy cabinet furniture, the problems of uneven surfaces are easily solved when using adjustable supports. The system intended to compensate for the unevenness of the floor and leveling the height of heavy wardrobes and cabinets, even if they are filled with clothes, successfully passed not one stage of approbations, and today the manufacturers are implemented in almost all models of furniture products. The support has an adjustable-screw-screw from a zinc alloy, independent of the groove. This element facilitates the adjustment, does not damage the floor, withstands the load up to 175 kg per support and is often a new-fashioned design element. You can adjust the height by any tool through a drilled hole in the bottom of the structure with a diameter of 8 mm. Moreover, this element is mounted to furniture with two spikes, which are crashed into the end of the frame, without drilling, while sometimes it is additionally fixed by screws. Supporter support has a rounded chamfer, which facilitates the gliding support on the floor surface when driving heavy furniture. Support is equipped with a screw with dimensional near up to 15 mm and up to 25 mm. Also, furniture makers offer options for adjustable support for eliminating the height difference of structures that do not have a base and raised above the floor. In this case, the adjustment process is reduced to the use of a screwdriver of a slot / cross or a hex key of 6 mm. The adjustable screw-leg is usually made from a zinc alloy, a large diameter and with a large thread rate. By the way, the plastic bummer at the time of adjustment remains fixed, which makes it easier to change the height and prevent damage to the floor.

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