How to build a house yourself. How to build a house inexpensively - reasonable savings at every stage of construction
Building a house with your own hands should always begin with careful preparation. First of all, you need to carry out some activities that are not related to construction (nevertheless, construction of the house will not begin without them). To begin with, you should create those. home design assignment site planning . Then a project is developed / bought - not only the house itself, but also the adjoining buildings. After that, all permits for construction work are drawn up and agreed upon.
On a note! If a garden is planned on the site, then it is advisable to plant the trees in the first place so that they grow and mature during the construction process.
Stage number 1. "Null"
A foundation is being built, as well as a “ground” floor (in other words, a basement, provided that it is provided for by the project). You must first decide what foundation to choose for the house. The process itself will look something like this:
- on the selected site, the fertile layer of soil is removed;
- digging a foundation pit (it all depends on the specific type of construction - you can, for example, do screw pile foundation); if a basement is not provided, a foundation pit can be dug by hand, although easier and faster to use special equipment in this;
- all the necessary communications are laid under the foundation (if it slab, then under it it is recommended to equip drainage and an auxiliary sewer pipe for draining);
- the remaining voids are filled up (as well as the basement floor, if there is such a room).
Stage number 2. Main works
Walls and interfloor ceilings are being built, mounted stairs, internal partitions. Next are built awnings and roof (read about how to make a gable roof with your own hands). Installed Garage Doors, external doors, windows and more. At the end produced house exterior decoration(using plaster, siding, decorative stone, wall paneling, facing bricks, etc.).
Stage number 3. Communications
This is a very important stage of construction, which consists in connecting all the necessary communications and installing engineering equipment. In particular, we are talking about:
- heating system;
- gas (if provided);
- ventilation system, air conditioning system (as an option - supply ventilation in a private house);
– alarm system, video surveillance system, TV, Internet.
Stage number 4. Interior decoration
At this stage of construction, ceilings are drawn up (painted / whitened, suspended or tension structures), walls are processed (aligned, puttied, wallpapered, and so on), poured floor screed(if we are talking about concrete floors), floor coverings are laid. In addition, you need to install
Since you are reading this article, a vacation outside the city on your site is attractive to you. A country house for this, of course, is necessary. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of saving not only money and their labor, but also land. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands, perhaps easier, faster, easier and cheaper. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house allows you to wait out a long bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.
Where to start
The first question that needs to be solved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where - it is already known, the site will not be moved anywhere. According to the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, a ready-made project is developed or selected for it, and then - estimates, purchases, and for business. We will start with the choice of material.
What to build from?
Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: it is very difficult to build them on your own. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal ground movements and therefore require a foundation that is no less reliable than a full-depth tape foundation (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the bottom of the tape). The foundation of full penetration must stand to give its own shrinkage, at least from the end of summer until full spring warmth next year. The same endurance is required for insulated slab foundations, for example. swedish plate. True, there is a type of foundation for wooden houses that does not require a technological break (see below), but the timber or log structure itself must shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. That's why a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles / sq. m) and difficult to build on your own.
The same situation arises with brick houses and. Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be appropriate only in very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built 2-storey; brick and lumber technologies allow an unprepared, but attentive and accurate builder to build a house on 2 floors. Examples of the layout of compact 2-storey brick and timber houses are shown in Fig.:
Note: it is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. The construction of a country house from foam / gas blocks makes sense if the cottage is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and there will be less heating costs.
The easiest and fastest way to build a small house is to assemble it from a prefabricated panel house kit or structurally insulated panels (SIP). A 20x20-foot (6x6 m) prefabricated house is set up in a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental ability trained according to the instructions for the kit. No joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles / sq. m. Without foundation.
A SIP house will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rubles/sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held on locks between the panels. In order for a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have a lot of internal partitions from the same SIP with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.
So we come to the conclusion: to build a country house, so that it is fast, simple and inexpensive, you need it from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.
Project
An inexpensive garden and / or compact country house is best built according to a standard project; see below for essential construction details. A ready-made free project of a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - a detailed standard project of a garden house for 300 rubles. find really on the relevant sites.
How to choose easier and cheaper
However, when sorting through projects, it is necessary to take into account some significant circumstances, namely, the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. earthworks and laying the foundation. It's the frosty heaving of the soil. With seasonal shifts, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll over in waves. Summer cottages are cut into soils of various kinds, but having one common property - sufficient connectivity of their own, otherwise no one needs such a summer cottage. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frost heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to raising/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight heel.On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. Here the square-cube law, well known to technology (and stubbornly overlooked by amateurs), operates here. It is easy to test it by experience: glue cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple one and the other. The third factor is the intrinsic cohesion of the soil is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.
Without going into further details, we will immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house in terms of fit into a circle of a certain diameter, then on ordinary soils of garden plots it can be built on an unburied foundation, which is much faster, easier and cheaper. In what circle should the project of a wooden house fit in the plan, so that it can be built on an unburied foundation on soils up to and including medium-heavy ones, is shown in fig. It all depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more square the house, the better it plays out seasonal ground movements. Therefore, it is better to build “tramway” houses for narrow sections, without looking closely, on the foundation of a normal depth. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1 Note: the veranda / terrace is included in the projection of the house, if it is rigidly connected with its design. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or are hinged to it are excluded from the projection of the house in the plan. We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. We only recall that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils, except for non-rocky ones, it is necessary to lay a normally buried tape or TISE foundation. The slab foundation with insulation “settles down” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to split. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, it is possible to lay a foundation on geo-screws (see below) with a steel grillage. An unburied foundation for a compact country house is the easiest and cheapest way to assemble a columnar foundation from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. Blocks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; top across the bottom. Thus, the column is obtained in terms of 400x400 mm. Pit pits for posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15 + 15 cm falls on the anti-rock sand and gravel pillow. It makes no sense to deepen the columns of blocks by more than 20 cm: the dressing of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the frost heaving forces will tear the columns. The number of rows of blocks in the column is made more than 2 if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. a week. The recessed foundation of a compact house is often, following the model of large buildings, piled on bored piles in soft roofing material formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are taken on the pile shell, which makes it possible to compensate for the height difference along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast small-sized construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - it must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring. Note: it makes no sense to lay a TISE foundation for a light compact house - the "caps" of TISE piles normally work in the ground only under sufficient weight load from the building. Of the small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one is capable of creating one. The best option for a recessed foundation for a compact house is on geoscrews. Geo-screws are a type of shortened screw piles especially for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, ground screws are not designed for swampy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a self-made tape foundation, because. ground screws are not cheap in themselves, but for a small house this is not so scary, since few screws are required. A geo-screw for soils of low and medium density, according to the principle of keeping it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a furniture confirmatory screw and also looks like it, see Fig.: The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Those and other ground screws can be used on soils up to excessively heaving. On the heads of geoscrews, you can either lay the wooden lower trim of the structure, or mount a steel grillage. For information on how a wooden house is built on screw piles, see, for example. track. video: The advantages of ground screws for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are huge: Note: if you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them about whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil. We come to the very essence: what kind of simple country house will be built cheaper and most likely? In ascending order of cost, complexity and time of construction, as well as potentially aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are next. way: KUNG is an abbreviation for a Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Size. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War and, thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung change house from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and putting it on posts, concrete supports of grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone pillow (so that weeds do not germinate and annoying living creatures do not start). The foundation for the kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle. The kung has only one drawback as a country house: a utilitarian appearance, which any designer's attempts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages: It is better to look for a kung for a country house from ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 cars (see fig.): they have a flat floor and it is easier to put them on posts due to small or no recesses for wheel niches. You need 6 columns (it can be brick folded dry): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and easier to convert into housing than Ural and KAMAZ ones. Note: do not take non-standardized "booths" from the ancient ZiS's and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and insulation is no good. The width of the kung is standard according to the zero auto-dimension (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. laying a deep foundation. For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-slot kung (two-slot), on the left in fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. Kung change houses (top left and right in the figure) already provide normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung from old hardware communications. There are also sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some application of your hands from such a kung, you get not a house, but a candy, at the bottom right in fig. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance inside) compartment for the autonomous power supply (BEA) gas unit: a mini-toilet with a shower is placed in its place. Removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get a place for a gas stove for 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself, as if on purpose, is intended for garden tools, planting material, etc., and with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, there are side windows in the hardware communications kungs, which can not be said about all kungs - military cabins. Chalet means hut, and what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. A country house-hut is durable almost the same as a kung, because. its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small house-hut (approx. up to 4x6 m) can be placed on a non-buried foundation on any soil, except for excessively heaving. Materials for a hut house are required 1.5-2 times less than for a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimum set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage inherited from the ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any finish in any landscape, see fig.: There are few drawbacks to the chalet. The house-hut retains all its advantages up to a size in terms of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small-sized hut, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that's all. In America and Canada, single hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare farmer, who remembers), on the left and in the center in the figure: Arrangement of a single-seat house-hut - a shelter and a 3-seat country house But a house-hut of only 3x3 m in plan can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. In both cases, there are few heating costs, because. the relative area of heat loss of a house-hut is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your dacha is commercially inhabited from the first spring heat to the winter cold, then the hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung. The construction of a hut house with dimensions in terms of up to 6x4 m is carried out step by step. way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins): The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason why few build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw more”. Drawings of a house-hut 3x3 m for two or three are given in Fig.: The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, as well as intermediate frames, is timber 150x75. Firstly, on the facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tightening (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge run, a ridge beam of the same section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and upper straps (longitudinal stiffeners) from the same beam. Longitudinal and transverse bonds are connected by a half-tree tie-in. Those. using the example of a 4x6 m house, it is already clear how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house grow with an increase in its size. Note: on the lower screed, 2 more ends of the beam 100x75 are visible on the sides of the window. They are supported by internal partitions. The door frame on the other façade extends up to tightening and is made of timber 75x150; the lower screed of this facade is split. If this house is without a base, the window frame is similarly performed. In the general concept of a bungalow, this is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, a “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because. it is spacious, well ventilated, does not overheat by the Sun, and in construction it is no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive. However, today little is known to professional builders outside the tropics that the bungalow is also a kind of building technology. Bungalow huts built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the wilds of Russia, the north of the USA and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still habitable. A house built using bungalow technology is easily recognizable by its 2-layer sheathing of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right. Bungalow, as a technology of wooden construction, combines elements of half-timbered structures and frame with working sheathing. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a footprint. advantages: The disadvantages of building using bungalow technology are, firstly, the increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of openings: the outer skin boards need to be cut in place to fit the trim, otherwise pockets are formed - moisture traps. Bungalows as shelters are generally more popular than huts due to better habitability. In a bungalow, you do not have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat. The device of a bungalow-type shelter is shown in the figure: Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelters The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, an unburied strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If columnar or pile, then 12 supports are needed: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical rack) on the others. This house can be extended in length up to 3-3.5 m. Then, if you do not lengthen acc. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies. The “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation with dimensions of 4x5.875 m is, of course, more complicated in plan (see the next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of "real" recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but already for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev. the option is excellent also on strongly heaving soils. The main features of the bungalow as a building technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from a bar from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is given by the sheathing of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use, because under each joint of sheets, lining racks and valleys are needed. Bungalow construction schemes are given in the figure: The truss floor structures are not conventionally shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled in a half-tree and into a spike, and the spikes of the racks are on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners even without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the scheme for reinforcing the corners in the center in fig. It is unacceptable to use steel corners, linings, etc. in this case! For the Old Testament "oakness" you have to pay with labor. Sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (bulges of annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: inner inside, outer out. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood, the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of "humpbacks" it will split and the whole house will weaken. All boards are attached to the frame along short (end) edges with triples (not in pairs!) Of nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also fastened along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or with a snake (zigzag) in increments of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along short edges with pairs of fasteners; long - in a row with the same step. The assembly of the power frame of the bungalow is a very important stage of work. And laborious, because you can’t hammer staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were placed in wedging. The frame of the house using bungalow technology is assembled in the next. order: The frame mini-house does not have any features compared to the large residential one; the scheme of its device is given in Fig.: The order of construction is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a "classic" frame house 6x4 m:
The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut house and a bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: a simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig. Also, the design of the frame house is very plastic. On the one hand, it forgives rather gross mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative lovers a certain scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about the construction of a small frame house-shelter:
It is only necessary to add to this plot that the comments of the audience about the insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive out” the dew point once and for all outside, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used to prevent condensation in the insulation layer and further inside: EPPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) . The crossbar of the roof (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a feature. It is determined by its small size, and, as a result, the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the absence in it (forgive the clericalism), put a load-bearing partition (internal main wall). To hold the latter, a fully connected foundation is needed; at least - tape normal depth. Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof beam) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b): In the first, the rack of the truss truss rests on a transverse screed beam, and in a layered truss, on a load-bearing partition; split tie. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the roof trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the well-known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like according to skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge timber - 100x75 and Mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame Mauerlat, a beam of the upper trim can directly serve. If you decide to build a house with your own hands, then at each stage you may have many questions, the answers to which you can find in our article. For a private developer who decides to do all the work with his own hands, it is important not only to understand the sequence of work and know the intricacies of their implementation, but also to correctly determine the choice of materials, wall construction and type of foundation. If you will build your house yourself, then choose a simple project, a simple configuration in terms of and with a conventional gable roof. It is much easier to build such a building with your own hands, in addition, you can save on materials. From our article you will learn about building a house from A to Z. If you decide to build a house yourself from the foundation to the roof, then before you decide on the layout, you should decide what you will make the walls from, as this may affect the planning decision and the project as a whole. A residential building can be built from the following materials: Important: if we build a house ourselves, then the weight of the wall material is very important. So, lighter gas blocks are much more profitable to use than heavy bricks. You can save on transporting material and arranging a lighter foundation. Even if we build a house with our own hands, it is necessary to follow the construction stages, the first of which will be associated with the construction of the foundation. Before you independently choose the type, design and material of the foundation, it is necessary to study the geological features of the area, find out the level of groundwater and the level of soil freezing. Depending on the material of the walls and the characteristics of the soil, one of the following materials can be used for arranging the foundation: Having decided on the landing on the site, choosing the optimal layout and choosing materials, you can start construction, observing the order of work. Since there should be no problems with the implementation of brick or aerated concrete masonry, we will describe in stages how to build a frame house, because this type of structure is often used in private construction in every region of our country. Building a frame house on your own is quite profitable, because thanks to the lightweight wall material, you can save on arranging the foundation. In this case, you can use one of two constructs: The installation of the columnar base is carried out in the following sequence: Before building a house from wood, it is necessary to treat all wooden structural elements with antiseptics and fire retardants to protect them from rot and mold, as well as fire. To make the frame of a wooden house, the following bars are used: Installation of the wall frame is performed in the following sequence: When installing the truss system, you can use one of three sequences of action: After completing the roof frame, installation work is carried out in the following order:
Many people dream of building their own house for permanent residence inexpensively, but most are repelled by the high cost of building materials and work. However, costs can be significantly reduced by using new technologies, streamlining the project, and doing at least some of the processes yourself. In addition, self-built housing will fully meet the needs of the owner, will serve as a source of special pride, and for many years will be able to please with comfort and a cozy atmosphere. When planning the construction of your own housing, you must not only understand the goals and objectives, see the prospects and advantages, but also be aware that excessive savings can lead to significant disadvantages and inconvenience. Much has been written about what a modern home should be like. We want to warn you about what your own home should not be: Too compact. The desire to reduce the size of housing, of course, allows you to save on building materials, but the size of the house must fully meet the needs and size of your family. uncomfortable. Space optimization and the desire to equip an energy-efficient home should not interfere with the normal lifestyle of your household. Poor quality. When choosing materials for future construction, it is better not to look towards ultra-modern pretentious solutions. As a rule, their low price directly indicates poor quality. It is better to opt for traditional, time-tested building materials, which, moreover, will require less effort and cost during the installation process. It should be understood that the construction of inexpensive own housing involves a lot of compromises and a rather difficult choice between the criteria of price, quality, appearance, complexity, etc. Starting work, it is important to understand that an inexpensive house can be built only if you save not only on equipment and materials, but also by making decisions to reduce the cost of construction at all its stages. In the process of design. When choosing a ready-made project for your own home, or doing planning on your own, you should take into account the points that will save money due to optimal planning and design features. For example, it is relatively inexpensive to build a house using frame construction technology. How to build a house inexpensively On the cost of facing materials and finishing works. An inexpensive solution for interior decoration is plastering or wall cladding with drywall, laying laminate, using simple ceramic tiles in the kitchen and bathroom. On the delivery of materials. Of course, it is easier to entrust the care of materials for construction to the contractor, however, if you take this responsibility on yourself, you can save even more money. A third party, for insurance purposes, will purchase materials from well-known manufacturers. You can buy everything you need, focusing not on the brand, but on the quality that suits you personally. As a rule, among the products of unknown companies there are many worthy options with a much lower price. To avoid mistakes, you can collect information about the manufacturer on the network or ask around familiar developers. However, do not be fooled, remember - only quality products will allow you to build a good house, and it cannot be too cheap. When looking for inexpensive building materials, do not forget about seasonal discounts. In the cold season, sales of products fall, and many sellers reduce their prices. Take advantage of this and stock up on everything you need before starting work on a suburban area. On the cost of work performed. Hiring instead of a professional team from a well-known construction company "shabashnikov" from the province, you can reduce the cost of construction by 2-3 times. Of course, by concluding a contract with a firm, you will have legal guarantees, and a team of provincial builders may not even have tax status. However, if you have the ability to constantly monitor the progress of work, then the second option will save a lot of money. Before concluding a contract with a team of builders, be sure to talk to developers who have dealt with them before. Before the team starts work, sign a written document with its leader indicating the stages of construction and the timing of their implementation. Do not be too lazy to prescribe in the terms of the contract the cost of work, the rights and obligations of each party, penalties for non-compliance with certain articles of the document. If in the process of performing work you are not satisfied with the quality or other points, change the team to another without regret. The only thing left to advise - do not look for the cheapest builders. Remember that a self-respecting master will never work for nothing, and mediocre and irresponsible inexpensive "specialists" will force you to go through unforeseen expenses. As you can see, there are many ways to build a house inexpensively, saving even at the preparation stage, without even starting construction. It is only important not to overdo it in an effort to save the budget and in any matter to find that very “golden mean”. Despite the greatest desire to save resources during the construction process, there are a number of significant points that should not be saved. Technical Supervision If you are not a professional in the field of construction, then no materials read and conversations on specialized forums about how to quickly build a house can replace special education and many years of experience in this field. You can save on anything, but not on attracting a specialist who will carry out technical supervision over the construction process. You should be aware that the construction of a residential building is an extremely complex undertaking that requires an understanding of the mass of nuances and subtleties. No textbook or reference book can replace the specific knowledge and skills acquired over the years. By hiring an experienced qualified builder or technical supervision engineer, you get a lot of advantages at all stages. When designing and selecting materials for future construction. As a rule, specialists who rotate in construction circles are well aware of which team will quickly and inexpensively cope with the specifics of your home, so they can advise a good contractor. When drawing up contractual documentation with the contractor, all the necessary conditions will be guaranteed to be written in the documents. Experienced builders are well versed in the prices of building materials and prices for certain works, so you can not worry about inflated figures in the estimate documentation. The works will be controlled for compliance with the project documentation and SNiP. The purchase of the required amount of building materials and its expenditure will be under the full control of your representative. A disinterested person in the form of a technical supervision engineer will be able to competently assess the quality of work performed, control deadlines and check reporting documentation. Choosing a person responsible for technical supervision can save you from a lot of difficulties associated with construction and communication with the contractor. Project documentation A good project is the key to successful construction only if the design features of the building are consistent with the conditions of your construction site. It is best to buy a complete package of design documentation, after specifying for which region it was created. It is important to clarify the features of the climate, average annual temperatures, resistance to snow and wind loads. House quickly and inexpensively. Photo Be sure to tie the purchased project to local conditions. To do this, you will need to check and adjust the calculation of the foundation in accordance with the type of soil and its features. Often this procedure allows you to optimize costs, since the contractor benefits from an increase in the cost of construction. If an increased margin of safety from the foundation is not required, then a significant amount can be saved. Adapting the project to your own needs - changing the size of the interior, the location of door and window openings, floor and roof elements, as well as the choice of other materials, is also better entrusted to certified engineers. And the last thing - never entrust the development of project documentation and construction to one office. You can achieve the truth in this or that issue only when the opinions and interests of the designers and the contractor do not depend on each other. By creating healthy competition between them, you can optimize costs and find the most optimal solutions. Engineering systems and communications Your home's connections to the outside world need to be the most reliable and up-to-date. Remember - having saved now, you are doomed to additional expenses during operation. Properly equipped gas and electricity supply systems, plumbing, ventilation and sewerage, heating and lighting systems should not only provide the required degree of comfort, but also be safe to use. Don't forego any communication advantage. Provide your home with convenient access roads, lay cables for television and the Internet. All this will give you invaluable convenience and comfort in the future. You should not stare at large houses with many transitions and a multi-level roof. As a rule, such projects are created by professional architects, for whom the cost of construction does not matter, their goal is to sell a beautiful picture. In your desire to build cheaply and with high quality, it is better to pay attention to projects that have the following features: By taking the time to select the most economical solutions at the design stage, you can save energy and money during construction. You can build an inexpensive house with your own hands and achieve a return on every square meter of area if you follow a few simple rules during the planning process: All intra-house space should be divided into residential and economic areas. In turn, the living space is divided into day and evening zones. Each of them includes rooms for adult family members, their children, as well as rooms for guests. The daily zone includes a vestibule, a veranda, an entrance hall, a living room, a dining room and a toilet. The living space of the night zone - baths and bathrooms, bedrooms and dressing rooms. You can build a house inexpensively by minimizing the number and area of passages, halls and corridors. The kitchen adjoining the dining or living room will allow optimize business zone space. Married couples and single adults living in the home must have separate rooms. Moreover, if more than one generation of relatives lives in the house, then it is better to separate each family with a personal space with its own bathroom, and if possible, make a separate entrance. The house is best equipped with two doors - one front door, and the other - for access to the economic territory of the yard. Equipping the stairs, make sure that it is illuminated by natural light. The project of an inexpensive house should include extension living space for the future, for growing family members. When planning to install a fireplace, take care of the possibility of arranging a chimney in the chosen place. The correct orientation of the house on the sides of the horizon and the wind rose will reduce the cost of heating. You can reduce the cost of construction by designing a simple gable roof instead of a multi-element sloping roof. Optimize the length of engineering networks and communications by placing the kitchen next to the bathroom and boiler room. A built-in garage will cost less than a detached building and will provide you with invaluable convenience in bad weather and winter. Instead of a basement, it is better to provide pantry, while placing part of the utility rooms in the attic. Don't forget sound and heat insulation. The house should be comfortable and energy efficient. When arranging a heating system, choose the most technologically advanced solutions - they will help save money and will not lose their relevance for a long time. Separate the front door vestibule, which will prevent cold air from entering the house from the street. Installing balcony, use independent supports for it. By ridding the house of a foundation joint with a balcony, you will remove an additional conductor of cold. The optimal combination of floor area and glazing is 1:8. Exceeding this value will increase the cost of space heating. Plant vigorous trees on the sunny side. Their shade will reduce your air cooling costs by 50% in the summer heat. We recommend that you use only environmentally friendly products in the construction of your home. The health of all members of your family depends on this, so do not be too lazy to find out about the origin of building materials and the availability of quality certificates and other documents confirming the safety of their use. The main criteria on which they rely when choosing a material for walls and roofs are strength and thermal insulation. According to SNiP 02/23/2003, before starting construction, they calculate the cost of 1 sq. m for walls of various structural and elemental designs. After that, the heating costs are determined when using each structure and the period during which the construction will pay off is calculated. Thus, you can find out which of the outer shells will be the most inexpensive and rational, in other words, from which it will be cheaper to build a reliable and durable house. Of course, information can be gleaned from third-party sources, such as the World Wide Web, but this information will be quite approximate. The thing is that in different regions not only climatic conditions differ very much, but also the price of building materials, as well as the type and cost of the fuel used. It is possible that in order to select the best building material for your area, the results of similar calculations for previous projects will have to be consulted with local designers. As a rule, money invested in energy-saving materials pays off most quickly in areas with expensive energy carriers and severe weather conditions. In this case, you can inexpensively build a house from foam blocks or bricks using this wall shell design: Widely used in construction frame constructions, the share of insulation in the internal structure of which occupies the first place. If we talk about payback, then you can not think about more profitable construction. Currently, it is possible to build a frame house relatively inexpensively, 25 - 30% cheaper than the cost of block or brick buildings of the same size. The structure of the frame wall is a real multilayer sandwich, which consists of the following elements: The advantages of frame construction contribute to their widespread use in more temperate climates. In this case, external wall insulation can be omitted, since one layer of thermal insulation will be enough. The design of the wall of an inexpensive house for the southern regions can be as follows: If in winter your climate can be called mild, then single-layer walls made of porous materials (aerated concrete, gas silicate, porous ceramics, large-pore expanded clay concrete, foam concrete) will help to reduce the cost of construction. A masonry thickness of no more than 510 mm will suffice, while additional thermal insulation can be omitted. As for houses made of natural wood, the term “quickly and inexpensively” is no longer applied to them, since at present wooden structures cannot compete with modern technologies. In addition, with year-round living, they require the installation of additional thermal insulation, which negates their advantages in the form of environmental friendliness and breathability. Of course, for a country or seasonal house, this option should not be rejected, however, as the main housing, it is better to look for cheaper and more rational solutions. As you can see, there are many ways to build a house with high quality and inexpensively. Maybe it's still worth getting up off the couch, rolling up your sleeves and taking the first step towards your dream? How to build a house inexpensively. Video They acquire dachas in different ways - they inherit them, buy plots with a house and remake or complete them for themselves, or buy land in an almost open field and begin to develop virgin lands. Just such a process puzzled one of our craftsmen, who decided to join the suburban life. And since the most effective way to save money is to do it yourself, that's exactly what he did, starting small - with a summer house in the country "for the first time." Gonzik1 Last year I bought a plot in the field (like a new holiday village). The poles were installed, electricity was brought to the site (it took about two months to complete the paperwork), they put a shield on the pole with a meter, an automatic machine and a socket. This year, having saved up some money, he began construction. I decided to do everything with my own hands, because it's cheaper and more reliable. Do-it-yourself country house project The craftsman created the cottage construction project during the winter with his own hands, according to his idea - this is the first module to which he will later add another one, combining both parts into a single structure. With the help of a special program, he made a drawing that made it possible to accurately calculate the required amount of building materials. Foundation Since the house is lightweight, using frame technology and on one floor, Gonzik1 gave preference to a columnar foundation of special concrete blocks (20 × 20 × 40 cm). Also, his choice was influenced by the low groundwater level (GWL) in the country and the excellent condition of such foundations under neighboring buildings. Depending on the level, I used one or two blocks per pole - I removed the fertile layer, poured a sand cushion, laid the blocks. The plane was held with the help of a hydraulic level. According to the craftsman, he appreciated this simple tool - it is cheap and the measurement accuracy is excellent. The pillars were covered with roofing material for waterproofing. With the help of relatives, the foundation was ready in three days. Water supply There is nowhere to take the central water supply in the field, so the problem of water supply is a personal matter for every summer resident. Our craftsman originally planned to drill a well. Trial drilling at thirty-six meters was unsuccessful - instead of water, dense black clay went. The drillers reported that only an artesian well of about ninety meters would help, voiced a sky-high price. Gonzik1 I got upset, imagining the scale of the problem, and decided to dig a well, as the foreseeable future showed - the right decision. Three days of work, ten rings - a column of water for one and a half rings, is restored in an hour and a half. Box The strapping is two-layered - at the bottom there is a board 100 × 50 mm, on top - 100 × 40 mm, impregnated with fire and biological protection, the strapping elements were connected to each other with nails (100 and 120 mm). The strapping was laid on top of the roofing material and fixed to the posts with anchors. All frame posts were also assembled from a 100 × 40 mm board on nails, the walls were raised right in place using temporary jibs. On the ground they collected only a skate, after raising it to the roof. This stage took another four days. Next, they mounted rafters, wind boards, pulled the wind protection, over the counter-lattice and crate. As a roofing, our craftsman chose metal tiles. Gonzik1 I read that no matter which side the sheets are laid on, they are more often laid from left to right. It turned out that no, the tile is laid from right to left, otherwise the next sheet will have to be brought under the previous one, which is extremely inconvenient, especially when installing alone. The weather was not very good, it was drizzling, there was wind, he moved along the roof like a cat, trying to cling to the crate with his feet. All twelve sheets of tiles (115x350 cm) were laid in half a day. After the tiles, hands reached the ground, because of which the floor logs were not fully laid. Gonzik1 I used a 50x50x4 mm corner, a 40x4 mm metal strip connection, plus a piece of self-supporting insulated wire (SIP). Next, we covered the entire structure with a protective membrane, installed a door, laid a floorboard on the terrace, and proceeded to sheathing the facade with imitation timber. Cashing was immediately treated with protective impregnation. In the process of work, the craftsman made adjustments to the project - he made a third window, so there will be more light, and the view from the window is attractive. Internal work With the end of the holidays, the construction process slowed down as much as possible, since free weekends did not fall every week, but continued. I finished with the floor - rough on OSB logs, on top of a windproof membrane, between the logs of stone wool slabs, crate, and OSB again on it. The finish is linoleum. Also, the house got another window. He brought electricity into the house, insulated the perimeter with stone wool, on top of a vapor barrier and lining as a cladding. The finishing process continued according to the same algorithm, contrasting trims on the window openings added decorativeness to the house. All interior walls will be lined with clapboard. Gonzik1 There are no plans for a stove, a house for seasonal residence - spring, summer, autumn. I plan to hang electric convectors, I have no problems with electricity there, three phases, a new substation, 15 kW per plot. For all those interested, the craftsman posted the calculation of materials (the entire used board is 6 meters long): Taking into account independent construction and finishing, the estimate turned out to be quite budgetary. Gonzik1 The electrician is still just going to breed around the house, I think I’ll fit in 8-10 thousand. I don’t quote the cost of nails, screws, staples for a stapler, etc., because I don’t remember how much I bought. Total: about 165,000 rubles. For another short but fruitful vacation, I finished with the electrics, finished the interior lining with clapboard and painting, made a set for the kitchen, completed the terrace. I laid a 100 × 40 mm board on the terrace, took an unplaned one, processed it with an electric planer, then covered it with impregnation in two layers. Over the past winter, everything is in place, nothing has led, it has not dried up and is not warped. The craftsman plans to finish building the second block, but this test of the pen is up to the mark - an excellent cottage for a family vacation.
Foundation
Unburied
buried
Geoscrews
Video: installation of a frame house
What house to build?
When not to excess
Chalet
How to build a chalet
Bungalow and… bungalow
Bungalow like bungalow
Bungalow as technology
Skeletons
Video: country house 4 × 6 using frame technology
Video: do-it-yourself mini-frame house
In conclusion about the roof
The subtleties of the choice of materials
Landing on the site
Foundation construction
Arrangement of the frame structure of the walls
Roof installation
Floor installation
What should not be an inexpensive house
What can you save on
What you should not save on when building a house
What should be the project of an inexpensive house
Proper layout of an inexpensive house
What material to build a house from
Country house 6×6 with a built-in terrace 4×3
