How to install a brick furnace firebox door. How to Install Fixed Furnace Oven Door In Brick Stove Installation

So, the first six rows. A configuration door is installed, a grate is mounted and there is already a ready-made ash. It's time to install Machine door. Here they hold out a little longer, because the coat door is an element that is most suspended, expansion and physical exposure and therefore should be taken seriously to this process. About furnace doors can be viewed, and in this project a standard cast iron door is used.

Size 250x210 mm.
When installing, it is necessary to remember that there must be a heat gap between the door housing and bricks, filled with basalt cotton wool or asbestos. The door can be installed in the same way as the subtopic, but it is better to use one of the following ways.

The first method - through the side openings in the frame of the door with special self-drawing or well needles, is fixed directly into the brick walls of the coat of flocking (Fig. 1). This method is more suitable for doors with a wide shelf. You can also stick or fasten the steel strip to the frame to the frame (preferably from the stainless steel) and it is fixed in brick seams (Fig. 2 and 3). To the ends of the bar, sometimes even for amplification, linked wire (Fig. 3). Recently, such a method began to be practiced (Fig. 4) - the furnace door is turned into a steel sheet, and the one in turn by special dowel-nails through basalt cotton wool or asbestos to the plane of the wall, where the door is located.

For ours we use the second way (Fig.2).
We put the door to the place where the kettlebell will be, pre-laying a strip of basalt wool or asbestos and vertically, in terms of level or plunder, it is fixed. You can fix this => In a way or some other. It is important to take into account that the fixation is rigid, but also did not interfere with further masonry. Thus, we have installed and can be started.
Continuation B.

It is very important when the furnace is erected properly install furnaces. This will protect you and take pleasure from observation of calmly crackling firewood or coal in the furnace furnace.

Stoves - confusion, furnace and clean doors, grate grating, gate (chunk) valves - are installed to regulate the combustion process and ease of operation of the furnaces.

Before installing the door, check on:

♦ Frame adjustment density to frame;

♦ free rotation of the cloth in hinges;

♦ no skew;

♦ the possibility of fixing their closure;

♦ The presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

The chimnery gate should be freely walking in the grooves and tightly block the hole, the frame should not have cracks.

When installing furnace devices, it is necessary to remember that the metal and brick, heating, are expanding unequal. This affects the behavior of those devices that will be installed in high temperatures. If they are tightly closed in brickwork - with raising the temperature, they will break it. Therefore, the grille, flue-door, the oven and the cast-iron flooring is installed so that when heated is provided,

an expansion of them without impact on the masonry. For this, the grille is placed in the opening with a gap of at least 5 mm from all sides (Fig. 108).

The grate grid should be freely removed to replace in case of exercise or breakage. It is placed without a solution, and the grooves are filled with sand.

Special attention is paid to the installation of the heat door, since it is most exposed to the action of thermal expansion, and at the same time it should be installed so that the coarse space is tightly overlapped and reliable fastening it in the masonry. Fasten the flipping door with curvature steel (Fig. 109). The bottom can be fixed with a steel soft wire with a diameter of 1.8-2.0 mm, but it is necessary to close it with a solution. In the vertical part, the wire is difficult to protect from the effects of high temperature - it will quickly be abrupt.

Clammers are made from strip steel. Crazymer's ears should be beyond the door of 100-120 mm. Fasten the beam square to rivets frame. In the bottom hole of the furnace door, you can insert pieces of steel wire with a diameter

live so that they fall into the laying seams. Check the installation of the door in terms of the level - the frame should be horizontal - and fix it with a wooden slash. One end of the rails put on the door of the door, the second - on 3 bricks, laid plastics, and put a brick on top on the rail.

According to the co-solution, put bricks, starting the masonry of each row from the door, gradually close it in the furnace array.

Installing the confusion and clean doors in the same way, fasten with a steel soft wire with a diameter of 1.5-2.0 mm, laying its ends in the laying seams. The infancy door is little exposed to the action of high temperature - the expansion of it is slightly, and since it should herdedly overlap the flooding space, it is tightly lit into the masonry, closeing all the seams with a clay solution. It is necessary to strictly unstelling the horizontal framework of the framework frame.

Oven, as a rule, made from sheet steel. Therefore, when heated, they will strongly breed, if you do not leave the gaps for expansion. They set them in terms of the level, the frame is wrapped with a moistened sheet asbestos width in the Pollipich, an asbestos layer can be increased, just to the upper plane coincided with the plane of the masonry of a brick row, which is placed overlap.

The cast-iron plate on the kitchen and heating and cooking furnace lay strictly in terms of level. For stacking it in the bricks of the upper row, the grooves in the size of the plate with a gap of 5 mm per side are pushed. It is impossible to clamp even one of the sides of the plate - when heated the opposite direction will be combined. Better * Putting the plate on the clayas-scale solution. To prepare such a solution, they make a liquid clay pulp, an asbestos crumb is added to it, bringing the solution to the desired consistency. The top of the kitchen plate around the perimeter is watched by the same solution.

Sewer valves are placed so that the tightness of the channel overlap or the chimney is ensured. In bricks, grooves for the frame with a small gap

rum on the extension. Well put the valves on the clayabesto solution.

09.02.2007, 11:55

Tell me from practice how best to mount the furnace doors. On the wire, rivet and bending the plates or as some advise - drill a brick and put on anchor. Surely tried in different ways and stopped on the optimal version.

10.02.2007, 01:10

Yes, you are right, tried in different ways. Previously, years to 15 -20 tv, we always dripped with a wire or riveted with nails (for 250) to the steel strip from the wrap of wooden barrels, the benefit of them was lying almost in every yard. Now, of course, times are not those, but still knit, and we can take, and put on the bolts. Now it's kepy and on an anchor, and on the needles. It all depends on the design, customer and applied accessories (casting).
Based everything, for fastening the domestic casting, we use a black or stainless steel strip screwed or scanned to the door, and at the edges of the wire braid in the masonry, or the bending of the strip of the strip under 90 degrees. In the case of the application of the Finnish casting, it is sometimes on the anchor on the anchor. The door supplied to the clogged strip serves almost all of its life, does not fall and does not fall out. When mounting on an anchor, it is necessary to take holes in the door frame slightly larger than the diameter of the anchor, for thermal expansion. Installation on the wire, at first glance it may seem the simplest procedure, but it is not. Experience and some knowledge is needed, otherwise the door quickly looses and can even fall out. The wire must be soft, compossed, knitting, 2-3 mm, twisted tightly without gaps (!), Is well stretched and must go deep into the masonry, (and not at 15 - 20 cm, like some mountains of the Pechniks).
Choosing for you, all the ways are good and optimal to the specified place.

11.02.2007, 19:40

Thanks for the consultation. Probably I will mount the Finnish casting anchors. I would like to do so that it would be no longer coming back. Just doubt. Over time, the anchor due to different expansion coefficients can be breaking and falling. Maybe there are some tricks, such as a sealant into a hole or something else.
If that, tell me how best.
Yes, and more. What is the fitting needles. Briefly for concept.

12.02.2007, 00:02

I try to put the doors on the anchor only in the devices of periodic firebox with a small pace. Loads (type of barbecue, dacha furnace power, etc.) and tricks, but not previously indicated. It can not be cleared like that at any time you can pull the anchor. This is a plus anchor attachment, but for some reason, at high loads, I do not trust them, it may be in vain, it can be reinsured. There was no complaints.
Good luck.

22.05.2007, 23:06

Now it's kepy and on an anchor, and on the needles. It all depends on the design, customer and applied accessories (casting).

Hello.
Very surprised by reading the mount on the anchor of the coil door. After all, the anchor creates in a brick - with a serious drop in temperature, is this an additional factor for the destruction of the brick?

Zhirnov Vladimir

24.05.2007, 22:31

Good question!
In general, Kraft physics knows ... :)
Apparently he puts an anchor on the sealant

31.05.2007, 21:33

Hello, Vladimir!
Maybe you have a smile similar questions, but for such as I trying to make your only stove and do not claim the title of a "chimney professional", such subtleties are very interesting and your forum of professionals is very informative.
I, for example, in the same book on a chimney, in no description, I can not find, how does the exposure is laid out - is it mounted in the masonka or relies on the corner? Nowhere is not a word - as if it was at birth to the knowledge of knowledge.

Evgeny Kolchin

01.06.2007, 09:50

Vinni, naturally, this knowledge is not laid at birth ..
Here it is necessary to have skills in brickwork, i.e. the basics of Mason's skill - a ring, a tough, a bandage, as well as knowledge in the field of physics - the temperature expansion of various materials ..
So, if you put a corner into an exposure, then naturally it will warm faster and expanding pulling everything and everything that you have nearby, for such kidding to the corner, put a seal that allows you to compensate for this extension (example, installation of a gasket, gaps between Shamot and red brick), but not only in the subject ..
The second, if you "tie a brick exposure to an external laying, the same bad, since the outer wall is heated much later than all the inside the oven ..
From here, the exposure is laid on the inner wall and due to the dressing of the upper brick keeps

01.06.2007, 15:37

Evgeny! Thanks for the help.

Pal-Palch

29.07.2010, 16:33

29.08.2010, 18:19

Fastening the stem door SVT 405 with nichrome wire with a diameter of 1.8 mm. In each hole, 2 wires are skipped, which suits into dense pigtails and at the ends have hooks in the form of anchor.

25.12.2010, 02:37

Mirkis Semen

25.12.2010, 02:41

How much does the door just like this "yesterday"? And how do you like fastening on their samabs? I also did not coincide the holes sometimes, but then Toli, I began to do the seams thinner, it was toli because of the brick, but usually do not feed. Although I have more often put. Maybe because of this. And they are better coincided by many more than many. How many times they spoiled that these inventors producing doors even probably and brick did not see!. This also applies to fuel, but especially to the cleaner.

1. On the knitting needles, I began to bet since 1998. There were no problems with "eating". And you can pull up. But it is inferior to such an attachment on the corners, the fact that the latter more maintainable - the door is easily removed, i.e. It is easy to replace, and it is very important that the protection of the red brick choke is being implemented.
2. Fastening the flue doors on self-drawing has not practiced. Because The same Finns said that this is the day before yesterday. In the Finnish book (in Russian) Yukhani Keppo "Brick furnaces and fireplaces. Masonry" This method is very criticized. "Cold" doors are confused, cleaner - you can.

25.12.2010, 02:52

Well, I protect the red brick, I protect the "on the Us" cutting, and the chamoten then comes to the door itself. But what there is no corner, and a fierce of stainless steel in stores is a fact: (I'm needed when I need a stainless steel, so I buy a pipe, cut and straighten. Although troublesome, it is available. In anyone, you can find the town in any terrain and whirlpool.

Mirkis Semen

25.12.2010, 02:54

I agree. That the new technology for many people is not very accessible. It is necessary to order corners, have self-tapping screws for metal "Klopiki", dense basalt cardboard (better Finnish parks). For residents of remote places, the wire is still a wire, the beammers are cheap and angrily.

Zhirnov Vladimir

25.12.2010, 02:58

In the meantime, as 100 years ago, the wire rolls, probably in 90%.

RULIT, as long as!

25.12.2010, 03:04

25.12.2010, 03:07

RULIT, as long as!

So it is possible and car whiskers to sign, spring for fastening torpedoes and all sorts of cladding. And then you do not need to cut a thread - screw the screw: grin:

Mirkis Semen

25.12.2010, 03:09

RULIT, as long as!
Semen Mikhailovich also I somehow, told about the cutting of the thread in the frame of the door and fastening it with ordinary bolts

Yes I remember. I always tell me. Very original way, I came up with Kopaev V.Yu. (Moscow Guild). Received a patent for the invention. This forum has already been discussed somewhere. And even Kopaev himself responded to those posts.

Mirkis Semen

25.12.2010, 03:14

And the main years is 20 years old. And then you can repair, all one firek is sought. Ordered and where, and how much? And how much time leaves to enter, come, pick up the order ... Yes, even search for challenge. So everything is not so unequivocal. Basalt then cardboard is not everywhere. And somehow for three days killed on the fact that there would be a grinding circle on the stone in St. Petersburg to find. That was not all here. And the chamdes needed to shoot.

I agree that troublesome and expensive. And not at each facility, the customer may pay all these innovations. But if the order is solid, then the preparation is serious.

25.12.2010, 03:21

25.12.2010, 03:25

Well, I make a "folk stove", I need that b along the road from home to the object everyone will catch. So I am afraid that I still still be a "not progressive" liver. But if the wire will end, I can always sit down or connect, or a neighbor from the fence-ripples to divert. There is always a good soft wire on Ryabice :) Yes, and I don't go to the klyamers. Although more and more often, the people ask the Finnish door to put. So there the knitting needles, so again it is not necessary to run anywhere.

25.12.2010, 03:28

I noticed that polished stainless steel (corners on the door frame) do not even darken, then can the usual sheet steel can be used?

It all depends on the design of the furnace. In some furnaces and the door to raspberry, heats up. And if the door is worthwhile, for example, because of the futures, then there will be a simple corner to stand all my life. Yes, it melko and in the laying to embed it. Then he will not hang around.

Mirkis Semen

25.12.2010, 03:34

25.12.2010, 03:38

And a beamer, by chance, are it not shortened corners? Also to look.

25.12.2010, 03:42

Clearmen, these are strips of tin, screaming approximately cm 2-3, and a long cm 25-30. Screw (I usually trim nails) to the doors, through the holes. And the free end is refilled in the masonry. Holds better than wire, and do not pull out.

25.12.2010, 03:56

Mikhail Thank you, now I understood.

25.12.2010, 12:15

Taxis, it's when everything is available. I went to the shop, pinched my finger - "Give this door and the corners of the fastening to it," that's then taxis. In the meantime, as 100 years ago, the wire rolls, probably in 90%.

Ordered and where, and how much? And how much time leaves to enter, come, pick up the order ... Yes, even search for challenge. So everything is not so unequivocal. Basalt then cardboard is not everywhere.

Well, I make a "folk stove", I need that b along the road from home to the object everyone will catch. So I am afraid that I still still be a "not progressive" liver. But if the wire will end, I can always sit down or connect, or a neighbor from the fence-ripples to divert. There is always a good soft wire on Ryabice :) Yes, and I don't go to the klyamers.
That's what it is here, unless I didn't even see the doors of Finnish, but I put everything for the most part of the local filling or old Soviet, or Tsarist Poland.

And you say yesterday.

25.12.2010, 13:05

Vova, do not worry strongly. We love, opening our mouth, look at bright candy from abroad. For the matter that we live in a country with a huge experience of furnace heating. So without seeing the spokes and other things, you have not lost much. If the door on the wire holds for 20-30 years, then it is necessary to replace it with the fastening if it is more technologically accessible. And if behind the corners, plates and other things, you need to run two days, or to drag on yourself ... then it suggests the question of whether you need it?

25.12.2010, 13:13

I found it, it was in March of this year http: //www..php? P \u003d 20952 & postcount \u003d 4, and the theme itself http: //www..php? T \u003d 2258

In order for the country house to be warm and cozy, install the stove. Install the furnace, and the temperature mark will always be at the required level. The focus can be performed on their own, if, of course, you have special skills, and we will help you in this. So, we build a furnace.

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Masonry furnace

After a solid base is performed - the foundation of the hearth, proceed to the execution of the device body. First, the bricks of the first row are laying onto the bricks according to the coach, while it is important to control the sizes of the seams. After the position of angular bricks is determined, the row is placed on the solution, be sure to check the horizontality using the construction level. If the elements protrude out, they are precipitated by the blows of the image. After the first row is performed, it is checked with a roulette, both diagonally and perimeter. Make sure that all the diagonals are equal, otherwise to build a high-quality center will not work. Only after that the middle of the first row is filled with brick on the solution.

After the first series of furnaces is performed, the construction of the second row is proceeded, as in the first case, controlling the vertical of the angles using the level. The execution of the second row is produced similarly to the first: first the brick is laying around the perimeter, after which they fill the middle. Setting the second row, nails are clogged into the corners of the seams, the length of which can vary from eighty to one hundred millimeters.

After that, all the angles of the posted row with pre-marked points of the points are lowered with a plumb.

Next, nails are clogged into the marked points, they are tied by a kapron cord and stretch it with force. With the help of a plumb, the cords are tested correctly. In case of error you can simply bend a little nails and correct the position. Further masonry will be much easier, thanks to the cord, and the time spent on the work decreases.

All subsequent angles are performed in the same way as the first and second row described by us. When you lay out each row, the outer surface of the device body is cleaned with the help of a construction workshop, which can be removed from the residue. After completing the four - five rows, they are wiped with a wet rag.

Special attention should be paid to the seams of construction. They should be as thin with as possible, since thick seams begin to quickly crumble and the masonry of the oven is destroyed. The solution should be dense and fill with the entire depth of the seam. At the same time, if you perform vertical seams, you should overlap it with a brick located above. Ideally, if you place the brick so that the vertical seam is in the middle of the upper element. Of course, this will be not easy to achieve, but, no matter how it was, the overlap must be at least a quarter of the brick.

During the construction of the smoke canal, the brick should not be laid out with the cracked side inside, it will later make it difficult to pass the flue gases.

The fuel chamber of the focus is considered the most vulnerable to high temperatures, therefore it is not out of the simple brick, but from a solid chamotte material. If there is an opportunity, then from the dressing of the seams should be abandoned at all, as it is noted the difference in thermal expansion and, as a rule, the quick destruction of the masonry. Thus, the lining is performed either on the edge, or the number is completely laid out. The lining and chamotal material are stacked with the organization between them of the gap of about five millimeters.

Installation of clear and configuration doors

Before installing the doors, check the tightness of the adjustment of the canvas to the frame. Also, attention should be paid to the check of the rotation of the canvas, eliminate the windows, etc. If there are some defects, eliminate them.

Installing the door begins directly from the screw to the wire, which is inserted into the hole holes. The recommended wire length is fifty-sixty centimeters.

Where the door will be installed, cause a portion of the solution and insert the element, fastening it with bricks and checking the horizontal and vertical level. At the end, the wire is set in laying seams.

Installation of grate

It is important to remember the thermal expansion of materials. So, cast iron and brick have different indicators, it must be considered when installing the grate and other cast iron devices. If you do not leave the gap between the masonry and the body of the device, the headset will break the masonry, and the hearth will come into disrepair. Recommended gaps make up at least five millimeters. In addition, the semoliar changes several times during the operation of the heating device, so its free placement will not be an obstacle when replacing it.

Installation of the fuel door

The furnace door is installed in the same way, but it turns around asbestos cord. At the installation stage, the device is necessarily checked using a construction level and fixed with bricks.

If you are going to use a focus in intense mode, the wire that the door is attached can quickly fire, so it will be more advisable to replace the clemmer. For the execution of the beam, the strip steel is used, the cross section of which is twenty-five to two millimeters. Clammer's ears are removed by the frame for ten - twenty centimeters and attach to the frame with bolts with nuts.

Overlapping the door is performed in one second brick

or brick "in the castle"

If the opening is more than twenty-five centimeters, then the overlap must be performed in the form of a wedge jumper.

Installation plate

The first row, where the stove will be installed, first laid out on a dry (without solution). After that, the stove is mounted and its configuration is delineated. Next, in the brick choose the grooves with the condition that the slab subsequently will have an extension of about five millimeters. Brick is laid on the solution. Also, the groove itself is filled with the solution, and the asbestos cord is placed on the perimeter. Only after all these procedures omit the slab and deposit it with the Cyan

Installation oven

The oven, installed in the furnace housing, turns around the perimeter asbestos. The wall adjacent to the oven is laid out on the edge, and the top is embedded with a solution with a thickness of two and a half - three centimeters. This will eliminate the ambulance of the walls of the oven.

Masonry Arch and Arches

During the construction of furnaces and fireplaces, it is often overlapping a variety of openings, fuel cell, holes. To do this, use the method of laying the jumper, both simple and complex shape. The overlap in the wall is called arch, and between the two walls - the arch. The number of elements should be odd, and the central lock is called "Castle".
The jumper usually begins to be laid out with petes, according to a pre-drawn pattern. During construction, you should adhere to the proposed package, since the height of the arch or the arch can be different.

With independent construction of the furnace, each owner faces the installation of special furnace elements. Installation is a very responsible job. But not everyone knows how to do it. Further article will tell in detail about the installation of a good floppy door and all other elements.

The furnace specialized devices include: various for the purpose of the door, grilles grate and different chimneys. They need to ensure burning in the furnace and convenient use of the stove. Therefore, all chimney elements must be highly installed and sound.

before installing the door, it is necessary to check for the power of its fit to the framework itself, the absence of various distortions, the possibility of good closing fixation, the free turning of the web and the presence of the appropriate holes for attaching the door in the brick masonry furnace;
if there are any defects, they need to be removed or replaced by the door;
it is necessary that the gate hitch will move freely in the grooves and completely close the hole, the presence of cracks in the framework itself;
if you plan to heat the oven only coal, in the Sewer itself you need to drill a hole with a size of 13-18 mm.

Installation features

By installing furnace elements, it is necessary to remember that various materials, such as brick and any metal during heating expand differently. In particular, this applies to the instruments installed in the high temperature zone. If the masonry make a dense, with a strong increase in temperature, the devices will break it. That is why they are installed in such a way that during heating it was possible to free extension without a threat to the furnace. To do this, you need to get a grinding in the opening with an exact 5 millimeter gap. During breakdown, it should be freely removed to replace. Place the grate without the use of the solution, the grooves fall asleep with sand.

Work process

Installing a high-quality furnace door. To this process, you must consider with full responsibility and

seriousness. It is most of all exposed to thermal and temperature expansion. Therefore, it is necessary to install it so that the space in the stove is most closely overlapped and a reliable mounting of the door in a masonry was carried out. Such an oven door is fastened by clemmers that are made of steel.

At the bottom of the door can be fixed with steel wire having a diameter of 2 mm, subsequently close it with a solution. The top of the door can not be fixed with the wire, since it will be pulled out from the effect of highly high temperatures.

Clammers produce from steel. All the ears should look out behind the door of 10-12 cm, and they are attached to special rivets. The lower part of the door can be fastened with a wire with a length of about 60 cm. Before you start installing the door, you need to wrap the asbestos frame. The material can be used in the form of a cord, crumbs or sheets, wetting water before use.

In the exact place of installing the door, you must apply a layer of clay composition on the masonry. When using wire, the ends are hiding in the seams. Be sure to level the installation horizontal and fixed with a wooden rail. One end of this rail is placed on the door frame, and the second masonry brick, the brick is put on top to it. Next, the bricks are laid out for the solution, gradually laying the door in the surveying of the stove. Each row starts from the door.

Oven

The oven is usually made from strong steel. The gaps are determined using a level, the frame turns around

Sheet asbestos having a width of Pollockich. The plane of the frame at the top must coincide with the surface of the laying of the last row of the brick, therefore, if necessary, the asbestos layer should be increased.

Gearing must be installed on 25-30 cm below the flue hole with a slope toward the heat door. The fuel is attached to the shape of the trough, and the slits located between the grains should be along the fuel.

So that the grate does not destroy the laying when heated, it is necessary to leave the gaps of 5 mm, which then fall asleep with sand. With the help of a solution, the grate is not fixed!

Infrequent and together with her, the clean door is set similar to the door of the furnace. The confusion door is practically not exposed to high temperatures, so it needs to be tightly and firmly closed into the masonry stove, processing the seams using a clay solution. The horizontal frame is also determined using a level.

Installation of cast-iron kitchen stove

Absolutely all stoves are installed strictly for the construction level. For installation, it is necessary in the top row to push the groove, corresponding to the size of the plate and having a gap of 5 mm on each side. No sides of the plate cannot be clamped, since during heating it will change and mow the opposite side. Use clay asbestos solution. They must also be pushed the entire top of the slab around the perimeter.

It is very important when the furnace is erected properly install furnaces. This will protect you and take pleasure from observation of calmly crackling firewood or coal in the furnace furnace.

Stoves - confusion, furnace and clean doors, grate grating, gate (chunk) valves - are installed to regulate the combustion process and ease of operation of the furnaces.

Before installing the door, check on:

♦ Frame adjustment density to frame;

♦ free rotation of the cloth in hinges;

♦ no skew;

♦ the possibility of fixing their closure;

♦ The presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

The chimnery gate should be freely walking in the grooves and tightly block the hole, the frame should not have cracks.

an expansion of them without impact on the masonry. For this, the grille is placed in the opening with a gap of at least 5 mm from all sides (Fig. 108).

The grate grid should be freely removed to replace in case of exercise or breakage. It is placed without a solution, and the grooves are filled with sand.

live so that they fall into the laying seams. Check the installation door setting - the top plank frame must be horizontal - and fix it with a wooden rail. One end of the rails put on the door of the door, the second - on 3 bricks, laid plastics, and put a brick on top on the rail.

According to the co-solution, put bricks, starting the masonry of each row from the door, gradually close it in the furnace array.

Sewer valves are placed so that the tightness of the channel overlap or the chimney is ensured. In bricks, grooves for the frame with a small gap

rum on the extension. Well put the valves on the clayabesto solution.

provse.news.

Three ways of different ways to mount the door

Masters prefer to embed chimney elements as follows: with the help of fasteners of stainless steel, "on the corner" and the like.

The first way. Mount the filling door on the wire

Installation of the cooker

The main thing in this way is to choose such a wire so that it does not burn. It is best for this purpose nichrome. It is heat-resistant and plastic, so it will last long.

The wire is rushing into the holes in the door frame.

The thickness of the wire is selected depending on the thickness of the laying seam. Wire thickness is not more than 1/3 of the seam. To stick in the masonry firmly, we have a wire at an angle to the opening effort. The wire built in this way will not give the door of the chance falling out when opening. This is the way "on the corner".

The length of the wire must be long enough - on 2 brick thicknesses. If you have to change the door - this is the main minus, as it is a lot to disassemble.

The second way. Installation of the door on stainless steel plates

Installation of the furnace door on the plate

The plates have flanging, which clings to the door frame. Plates are attached to bricks on screws. The mount should not be tight and hard, since the plates are susceptible to compression and expansion at changing temperature. Rigidly fixed elements can destroy the masonry. Running thermally insulating material between the plate and bricks. A silica canvas fit well.

There will also be a combined method of mounting the door, that is, if you add a wire mount here.

Third way. Fastening of the coil door on bolts or self-tapping screws

This is the fastest and most unreliable way of fastening the furnace door. You just screw the door through pre-drilled holes to the laying.

General Council for all ways. Since the door expands when heated, it should not be mounted in the masonry too tight, otherwise at high temperatures it is capable of destroying this masonry.

What to livel the slit of the mounted door? Asbestos use in melting workshops. Temperatures there are very high. For wood and coal homemade stoves, this material is not required.

We reviewed three ways to mount the furnace cooker: Wire, with steel plates and bolts or screws. All methods have their pros and cons. However, the most reliable is a combined: on wire and steel plates.

How to install a flue door, three ways to lay bricks

You can buy a chimney in Nakhodka in our store "Cobbleshop" at the coal address, 59. Here you will find a cast-iron stove plate, doors for furnaces, ovens and other stovety products.

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Types of flue doors

Today, all the doors used in the furnaces can be divided into several groups that differ from a specific feature. For example, manufactured products from a variety of materials are made:

One of the most common materials for the furnace doors is cast iron. Such products are quite popular for many decades. However, they are distinguished by such disadvantages as a large mass, inconvenience of use, considerable volume of products.
The second group can be ranked iron doors. Usually such products are used in the arrangement of the stoves in the baths. For home stove, iron doors are not used because they have a relatively small number of positive characteristics.
Also, furnace doors are made from panoramic glass. Today, such models have received the greatest distribution. They are sufficiently light, and also provide a full overview of the flue space.

On the last version of the door for the furnace should pay special attention. Their advantages and disadvantages should be described, as well as to highlight the varieties of such products.

Benefits

The main advantage of the door with panoramic glass is a high heat resistance of the material. It is worth noting that this property does not have products from cast iron. This quality is one of the determinants, because the effectiveness of the heating unit depends on it. Glass can withstand considerable temperatures for a long time. This is distinguished from stainless steel.

Other advantages of panoramic glass used in stove doors:

High degree of refractory. According to this indicator, such devices also exceed the cast iron products.
It is also worth paying attention to that to increase comfort and giving the interior of the arbor comfort, it is important to have a hearth with open fire. However, with a simple stove, the flame can also be in sight. To do this, fuel doors are installed with glass. You can also mount them in the bath.
Another positive characteristic of such products is absolute safety when used in the bath. Production uses special glass that contains crystal ceramics and quartz. This makes it possible to eliminate the explosiveness of the material.
Compactness and small weight of products are also the essential advantages of doors with glass inserts.

The negative sides of such products include the brittleness of the glass. During installation, you should closely monitor the safety of the glass. In addition, when the door is installed in a bath stove, they need to be operated very carefully. It is impossible to clap with such structures.

Often, the owners of the stoves with a panoramic door face the rapid glass contamination. This property is another disadvantage of such products. On the material quickly settles the cootter layer, which must be considered.

As can be seen, the positive sides of the door with glass is much larger than negative. That is why they are very in demand today.

Installation of glass door

Before installing the door with glass to the stove, it is worth checking the ease of its opening. When tight movement, it should be developed. This will allow you to use the door as convenient as possible in the future.

Usually in small heating devices, the temperature does not rise quite high. In addition, the frame is not experiencing an open flame. For this reason, the expansion of standard furnaces is minimal. Even with the discovery of a piece of wire near the door, she holds in its place very tight.

There is an effective method for fastening the coil door, which eliminates its loss. It is necessary to stick to it special plates from the bottom and from above. It is better to choose products with expanding edges. Once all actions are performed, the plates in the brick should be squeezed.

Installation of the furnace door is performed in stages:

First, put the grate grid.
After that, plates and wire are attached to the door. As soon as the preparations are completed, the product is installed on the solution.
After the wire and the plates are bred to the inner walls of the cooler camera.
Other ends of metal elements are laying on 2 bricks, pressing on top of one brick.

The door angle is checked with a plumb. Then the latter wire is being missed into the hole of the door. It must be twisted enough tight so that the rings are not formed. Then the wire lays into the hole in the first edge of the brick. Then, on the solution, it is pressed with bricks from above.

Selection of doors

The first thing is to consider when choosing a door for a brickwork, the heating temperature, which will occur in the furnace. Due to the increase in temperature, the product will expand. Other factors should also be taken into account. There is an important rule for selection for furnaces.

The gap between the door and the stove wall must be minimal. It is filled with basalt cotton wool or asbestos. In addition, it is worth considering some recommendations of professional cookies:

To look at the flame, you should buy cast iron products with glass inserts. However, it is necessary to prepare for the fact that the product will be expensive.
For heating devices on corner or mixed fuel, cast iron products should be chosen. If the stove is token by firewood, you can use glass or steel.
To improve security, it is better to purchase a metal structure that has a heat shield. In this case, the maximum temperature of the outer surface of the door will heat up to 40 degrees.
In order for cracks in the glass, when installing the door with a seal, you can leave a small space between the product and walls. This will exclude the appearance of cracks even with strong overheating.

Such tips will help install the door to any furnace.

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What is the flue door?

Doors for furnaces - indispensable attributes in the construction of stone structures. Thanks to the door, the furnace becomes more efficient, including:

reduces warming time;
saves fuel;
furious coal or firewood do not fall on the floor.

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How to choose?

The brick furnace can be equipped with fuel doors made of various materials whose features are presented in the table:

Name	Benefits	disadvantages
Cast iron	The air intake nozzle from the room joins, thereby ensuring the full tightness of the fuel chamber	Term of use lower than the rest
	The door can be bought either personally make
Iron	Holds warmth perfectly, has a high level of fire safety	It should be periodically to cover anti-corrosion heat-resistant paint
	Relatively inexpensive cost
	Will last for a long time, you will not need to repair or replacing the furnace door
Glass	Can withstand large temperatures for a long time	Very quickly polluted and rather fragile, so when installing should be extremely careful
	Good from aesthetic point of view, since it can be observed for fire
	Do not explode, thanks to the use of quartz and crystal ceramics

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Preparing for the installation of the furnace door in a brick oven

The door must be freely open and closed.

Some doors can be very tightly open and closed. Therefore, before starting the installation, it should be developed to use it in the future it is more convenient. But there are still some details, which are specified before the start of work:

Check the adjustment density to the frame, while avoiding distortion. Turning the web must be free.
The movement of the gate shift occurs without difficulty and completely closes the hole. The frame should not be cracks.
If only coals are used for the furnace, the opening is 13-18 mm in the sebar.

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Types of mountage

The process of installing the furnace door must be treated with all seriousness, since it is more than the rest of the components undergoing thermal expansion. It should be fixed securely and so that the space of the brick oven completely overlap. There are several ways to mount the doors in brickwork.

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On wire

For installation, the nichrome wire is fits optimally.

There are cases when the furnace has to disassemble and collect newly due to the fact that the flue door fell out. It happens when it is fixed with aluminum wire or stranded wires. The live shops with extensive experience advise to use nichrome material, as it is flexible and rather heat-resistant. To install the door in this way you need:

Provine the wire into special holes in the door frame (if there is no, then you can easily drill). The product must be 2-3 times less than the stamping seams.
In the laying of the wire at an angle to the opening effort. In this way the door will not fall.

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With the help of elements of sheet stainless steel

Installation with a stainless steel is more progressive. They have the form of plates with flames or whole shell. Filming plate cling to the door frame. Elements should be fixed in brickwork with the help of self-samples. The plates have a property to expand and shrink when the temperature changes, so the mount should not be tight, as it leads to the destruction of the masonry. Between bricks and stainless steel, thermally insulating material is laid. The silica fiber is best suited.

To obtain the most reliable result, this method is combined with mounting on a wire.

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On screws or bolts

This method is the fastest. It is enough to dry up 4 holes of the desired size, fill them with asbestos cord and screw the door to bricks with self-draws or bolts. The filler can also be used by the other, the main thing is that he has a heat-resistant property. This method is unreliable. If you resort to it, you will have to replace the flue door after a short period of time.

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Very often, the furnace is shifted only due to the fact that the coil door fell out of it. Typically, the doors fall out because they are fixed with weak aluminum wire or stranded wires. Sometimes metal plates are paved over the door opening and they are screwed off the wire. Plates and wire from fire are burned, then deformed, leave the masonry, and the door falls out.

Before installing furnace doors, you need to check if they easily open. There are tight doors that are developed over time. I did not meet in any rustic furnace of Russia near the laying door of asbestos. In modern conditions, the asbestos borrowed from industrial furnaces in which it, indeed, is needed that the furnaces withstand high temperatures.

In indoor furnaces, there is not such a high temperature, and the door frame is far from the fire and therefore its expansion is insignificant. Even under the stone-coal fuel, the door fastened the wire and did without asbestos. Despite the fact that part of the wire near the door is naked, the door stands quite firmly. For a larger warranty, you can drill holes in the door frame closer to its edge. There are various ways to fasten the flue doors.

The best way to avoid the door dropping is when it is installed on top and bottom to stick to it metal plates with a thickness of 2-3 mm with extended ends, then suck them into the brick.

Before installing the furnace door, you need to put three bricks in front of it onto the grille. Doctor with attached plates or wire put on the solution, are breeding plates or wires of wire on the walls, and other ends are put on three bricks and pressed on top? One or two bricks. The accuracy of the installation of the door is checked on a plumb. As a rule, we use a soft, annealed in the furnace or on the fire exactly elongated wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm, about 1 m long. Pull it easily, the ends, and more than you need, for a pillar or in a bracket, pulling and simultaneously pressing Her to them, then one, then the other end. Inserting into the hole of the door frame, the wire folds twice and tightly twist so that there is no rings. If they still turned out, especially near the door, they need to be filled with a hammer along the entire length of the wire. In a stretched position, pressing the door to the masonry, the wire is inserted into the hammer-made small chip (hole) 1 in the brick edge (5-10 mm depth) closer to the outer edge so that it does not weaken and crash. In the stretched position, the wire with the blades are tightly pressed against bricks in an angle 2 in all rows and on the solution are pressed with bricks, and then intertwined with masonry. You can direct it up. The solution near the door should be a little, the seam needs to do thinner, so it will be stronger to hold. The door is not scary to heat expansion, with such a bookmark it will have more than a hundred years. If the wire is prevented from above the door, then in this place the brick need to be out.

The doorway is good to overlap two whole bricks so that they connect to the center of the door. Often over the doors, the solution falls out and the vertical seam is shouted. To eliminate this enough in both bricks in places of laying a solution of the angle of the hammer to make notches-holes. Then, when compressing the solution in the seams, these foxes will keep the solution in the seam and it will not fall. Here shown doors with holes. They can be done by himself, simply drum down in a regular door.

Very often, the coarse doors are faced in the furnaces, because they have a bad constipation (latch), which sometimes falls off after a few days. Even with the correct installation on a removal of the door without constipation begins to arbitrarily open. It happens because there is a heavy handle on the door, and it, as a counterweight, contributes to the opening of the door. To the door does not open up, all sorts of foreign objects are leaning to it - a kocherga or a closed, which begins to smoke and often lights up. Industry, apparently, is not able to invent reliable constipation for a coil door.

I propose an easy way to get rid of an arbitrary opening of the door at least in those furnaces in which the smoke is knocked out by wind from the furnace. This method will help forgetful owners. Close the door on constipation. With incorrect masonry pipe on top of the roof, the wind enters the pipe and knocks the smoke from the furnace. With strong wind, the door opens and the fire comes out with smoke, and sometimes burning coals fly to the floor. Therefore, it is impossible if the smoke from the furnace is knocked out, leave it unattended. In addition, it is necessary to put iron sheet on the floor. To the door did not open, you can make the gas.

During installation of the door in the laying, it needs to be kept closed, but not to constipation. Then you will see how it will open at a certain position. In order for the door not to open with open constipation, the top of the door must be rejected from the vertical position in the direction of the furnace by 2-3 mm. In this case, the heavy handle will press the door to its frame, but maybe in windy weather the door will open, so it is better to make a cap of the cap. Doors can be installed so that they open up the other side. For this, there are two-way constipation in the door. It is convenient if the owner of the left-hander or if they open towards the burning partition, but the latter can interfere with cleaning. To clean the soot you can install the doors with a height of one row, but for cleaning the gas ducts with a wire with a bow of a cloth, they are small in height and are not comfortable.

The hermetic doors fixed in the masonry with the help of glued plates, very heavy. It is difficult to mount such a wire, since they pull the wire from the masonry with their weight, but if you can fix it with the door with the doors so that it is installed with it, and the wire is intertwined with the following two masonry rows. The plates tightly hold the frame with the doors during the masonry. Such doors with wire fastening are dozens of years up to the demolition of the furnace. Sometimes doors, especially old, do not match the masonry and the door is formed on top of the door. In such cases, it is better to raise the door up in a closure with masonry, and under the door put on the solution thin brick fourth or to rush under the door of the brick on all its width, and for wires to push out shallow grooves, rising upwards. Easier and more reliable above the door fold the arch, as they did in the old days.

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With prolonged operation of the furnace, there is most often more frequently extinguishing grave, loosening, or loss of the fuel door, as well as the warping and cracking of cooking flooring.

The easiest of all change grace. From the fuel part, the excavation became extremely extracted and the new, identical old on the dimensions is installed in its place. However, when installing a grace, it is necessary to position correctly: cone-shaped gaps for ash should be located wide to the top. And I also can't forget that the grace of metal will necessarily be expanded when heated and at the landing site it needs to leave at least 5 mm of free space.

Photo 11.

Until the last time, the wire twists embedded in the seams were the most common way to fasten the cooker and the door of the ash bar. But if the doors of the ash bar are practically not subject to regular thermal and mechanical load, they, as a rule, extremely rarely fall out of the attachment points and get other damage in contrast to the fuel door.

In the process of everyday operation of the furnace, and especially with a negligence attitude to the fuel door (climbing the fifumes in the size of the size of lanes, or other negatives, the fastener of the fastening wire occurs. Standing the same twist, then under the influence of an open flame, no secure wire, in the end, inevitably burns out and the door, at best, begins to stagger, and at worst falls out. This trouble is often accompanied by both partial, or a complete collapse of the brick jumper over the door.

Photo 12.

In addition to fastening furnaces on wire twists, there are still a number of ways to install them. In particular, the thin-walled stainless and, accordingly, significantly more heat-resistant than ordinary, from black steel, corners, as well as on bevels from steel perforated tape. Based on the fact that stainless steel corners are very silent, and the mounting of the door requires certain skills, the method of installation on clemmers is more relevant for repair purposes.

Photo 13.

Klimmer, or Simply put, the usual strip of free-selling steel tape (photo 13), which is attached short, relatively with a thick frame of the door, self-drawn, or that, in my opinion, more comfortable, rivets, diameter 4-5 mm.

Photo 14.

When fastening the tape-klimmer, you need to move as much as possible to the edge frame turned inside the fifume. Otherwise, after installing the furnace device, it will perform from the outer part of the seam.

The seams in which blames will be inserted are carefully cleaned from the old solution and are washed.

Photo 15.

Photo 16.

When installing the door, the curzmers are rented in the calculated seams (photo 16), and the furnace itself is fixed, as a rule, a stack of bricks folded on top of each other.

Photo 17.

Then the seams are minimized to maximum filling and carefully closed. You can use the furnace after installing the door after complete drying of the solution during the time determined by the mixture manufacturer.

Photo 18.

We should not forget that the fuel door, like the grate, is made of metal, which is expanding when heated. Accordingly, when installing the door, from the sides and on top it is necessary to provide for at least 5 mm of space to brick, for tightness, fill in basalt materials.

In case of critical destruction or loss of bricks of jumpers over the door, they should be replaced with the installation in the middle of the jumper of the gas-called "castle" brick, well visible in photo 17. This is a masonry method when the brick is cut into 45 degrees on the ticks and as a wedge or "lock »It is inserted between previously cropped adjacent bricks, significantly enhances the jumper, not allowing it to collapse even in the case of the rash of binding bricks of the solution.

The replacement of the cooking flooring as well as the replacement of the grate, as a rule, does not cause special difficulties. However, in this, at first glance, a completely simple operation, there are a number of nuances. The first is a cooking floor, like a cooler, the fuel door, however,, like almost any metal in the body of a brick oven, it is necessary to leave at least 5 mm of free space for hermoreshit. The second is to seal the gap between the flooring and the brick masonry solution, as often most of the owners of the furnaces are made, meaningless. The solution frozard and lost elasticity with regular cycles of the expansion-compression of the flooring during the operation of the furnace will inevitably collapse and falls out. Therefore, sealing should be carried out by packing cavities by heat-resistant basalt materials.

Photo 19.

The third - cooking flooring of domestic production, especially solid, without burners, are not distinguished by special strength and often crack even after several furnaces. Therefore, despite the higher cost, it is preferable to install cooking hobs of foreign, in particular, Finnish manufacturers.

To remove soot from a convective system, or in other words, smoke-rotation systems, in the body of the furnace, a mandatory procedure should be provided for special technological holes, called the cleaner, in which the cleaned doors are installed. Ideally: every smoke turnover provides its clean door. However, in the process of masonry the furnace, by virtue of various reasons, they can either not be done, or to make an insufficient amount, thereby complicating or making it impossible to clean the heating device at all.

By the way, the sealing of soot in smoke-rises and chimneys, in addition to a significant deterioration of the thrust and critical lowering efficiency due to the reduction of heat transfer from the heated gases, the brick significantly increases the risk of fire, since soot with certain thermal modes has a property flashell and burn with very high, more than 1000 ° C temperature.

Photo 20.

Fire safety rules require cleaning the convective furnace system at least twice a year - at the beginning and at the end of the heating season.

Before installing the cleft door, it is necessary to determine where the smoke canal is located. If the EGO cannot be made by visual inspection, the channel will have to be signed. To do this, the drill is installed fine, not more than 4 mm in diameter and a length of more than 120 mm (brick width) of a concrete, which in drilling mode (the impact mode can damage the brick) in the place of the alleged placement of the smoke channel suture until The drill will not fall into the void. After the borders of the channel are defined, the hole is prepared for the installation of a clean door by removing bricks from masonry, a manner similar to that used when replacing defective bricks.

Photo 21.

If, when installing the cleaning, the door is required to remove half of the brick, then the line of the future fall is first drilled by several holes, and then beat the unnecessary part with the help of a chisel.

Photo 22.

As for the cleaner doors themselves, the market contains mainly cheaper doors of domestic production, in the overwhelming majority of the production of Rubtsovsk (photo 22), as well as imported, mainly Finnish production.

Photo 23.

It is necessary to note that, despite the lower price of products of the Rubtsovsky plant, they do not possess one of, complaint, the basic qualities that the cleaner door should have a tightness. Therefore, nevertheless, it is preferable to establish the cleaner doors of imported production.

Photo 24.

Photo 25.

Next chapter\u003e

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It is very important when the furnace is erected properly install furnaces. This will protect you and take pleasure from observation of calmly crackling firewood or coal in the furnace furnace.

Stoves - confusion, furnace and clean doors, grate grating, gate (chunk) valves - are installed to regulate the combustion process and ease of operation of the furnaces.

Before installing the door, check on:

♦ Frame adjustment density to frame;

♦ free rotation of the cloth in hinges;

♦ no skew;

♦ the possibility of fixing their closure;

♦ The presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

The chimnery gate should be freely walking in the grooves and tightly block the hole, the frame should not have cracks.

an expansion of them without impact on the masonry. For this, the grille is placed in the opening with a gap of at least 5 mm from all sides (Fig. 108).

The grate grid should be freely removed to replace in case of exercise or breakage. It is placed without a solution, and the grooves are filled with sand.

According to the co-solution, put bricks, starting the masonry of each row from the door, gradually close it in the furnace array.

Sewer valves are placed so that the tightness of the channel overlap or the chimney is ensured. In bricks, grooves for the frame with a small gap

rum on the extension. Well put the valves on the clayabesto solution.

Folding the oven is one thing, but install additional structural elements is an equally important part in the construction of the furnace. This work is very painstaking, does not allow any errors or inaccuracies, and how it is conducted know a few. This article takes the purpose of clarifying all the main points and options for installing the door to the brick furnace.

Turn

The obligatory elements of the furnace include gate valves, grate and itself - the door that is needed to lay the fuel in the furnace, adjusts the burning and prevents the fallout of the head of the furnace.

Install the door in the furnace

Preparation includes the following necessary steps:

Before the installation itself, you must examine in detail the door itself and the fastener frame (de facto take the fact that the door is already made under the required dimensions). The cracks, the doorway and the frame are unacceptable, its plane should be smooth and tightly luxury not only in the area of \u200b\u200bthe castle, but also throughout the area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the frame;
If the unsatisfactory state of the door is detected or, if possible, the defects are eliminated;
The door itself should move freely in the fastening elements. There should be easy closing-opening;
If the stove is made only under the coal, the opening is drilled in the door - 13 mm. in diameter. This hole will be intense for gases formed during anthracite combustion.

The door is exposed to the greatest effect during the operation of the furnace. It carries mechanical loads, as well as reinforced thermal. In order for the durability of the flap, the following instructions for each attachment should be followed as long as possible.

On nichrome wire

Nichrome has greatly proven itself in solving this issue due to increased resistance to heat and while maintaining its plasticity in the form of a wire. Such a fastening with a guarantee will last 20 years. How to fix the door in a brick furnace:

The main disadvantage of this method is that the wire must be kept in a stretched state and gradually close in the seam between the bricks. Length wire is one and a half or two bricks. The whole process is very laborious.

On the design of sheet stainless steel

Installing a brick furnace furnace door with this method has the most frequent distribution. The frame is a design that is the same with the door on geometric dimensions, but the frame plates have special bourges. Performed from the corner, one side of which is placed in the distance between the bricks, in the masonry. Next, everything is missed by a solution.

The way to correctly attach the door to the oven on the profile criminal can be combined with the first - on the wire, in this case the fasteners will be reliable, and durable.

On screws or bolts

This method takes place, but in the liveshche environment it is the least common and reliable. The fact is that the framework of the frame and the door itself is very heavy, especially if it is made of cast iron. This method is applicable in the question of how to fix the door for chimney in the furnace, and not for firebox.

The door and the masonry should have a small buffer, since the heating of the frame in contact with the brick will lead to its curvature, as well as damage the screws - they can bend and get out of the place of the overall. In this case, the door will recover from the masonry.

Features of installing the door in a metal furnace

The main feature is that the same metallic materials are used. It is desirable to pick up for the door exactly the same material as for the stove. Most often it is steel with a carbon content of 0.06%, also relevant to the use of cast iron.

In this case, the door is attached without a frame for simple hinges. Their main constructive reliability.

Each owner of the brick oven will independently choose options for installing the door. But the priority is the methods of installation on nichrome wire or using metal structures. These methods guarantee durability and reliability.

The question is how to install the furnace fiber door used to solve only the cookie. Now, when the tips of the masters became affordable, any owner will figure out in the question how to embed furnace details in the furnace laying.

Before talking about how to mount components for furnaces, pay attention to the following points:

The door of the furnace should fit enough to fit enough to the frame, however, if it is joined, then develop it, or change it. Otherwise, additional efforts when opening the doors will help quickly break it.

There are the following types of flue doors: cast iron, steel, with built-in glass.

The most common are cast iron doors. Despite its weight, they most of all pass the price-quality test.

Stainless steel doors are good for installation in the bath, as they are not afraid of contact with water.

The doors are chunk with glass as it is impossible to suit those who love to watch the fire. In addition, you do not have to open the door once again in order to make sure that the burning continues.

Glass furnace door

Most errors when installing furnace parts arise due to the fact that they are screwed onto a wire that does not withstand high temperatures and burns out over time.

Taking into account the above, consider the three ways to install the chimney.

Three ways of different ways to mount the door

Masters prefer to embed chimney elements as follows: with the help of fasteners of stainless steel, "on the corner" and the like.

The first way. Mount the filling door on the wire

Installation of the cooker

The main thing in this way is to choose such a wire so that it does not burn. It is best for this purpose nichrome. It is heat-resistant and plastic, so it will last long.

The wire is rushing into the holes in the door frame.

The length of the wire must be long enough - on 2 brick thicknesses. If you have to change the door - this is the main minus, as it is a lot to disassemble.

The second way. Installation of the door on stainless steel plates

Installation of the furnace door on the plate

There will also be a combined method of mounting the door, that is, if you add a wire mount here.

Third way. Fastening of the coil door on bolts or self-tapping screws

This is the fastest and most unreliable way of fastening the furnace door. You just screw the door through pre-drilled holes to the laying.

General Council for all ways. Since the door expands when heated, it should not be mounted in the masonry too tight, otherwise at high temperatures it is capable of destroying this masonry.

What to livel the slit of the mounted door? Asbestos use in melting workshops. Temperatures there are very high. For wood and coal homemade stoves, this material is not required.

How to install a flue door, three ways to lay bricks

You can buy a chimney in Nakhodka in our store "Cobbleshop" at the coal address, 59. Here you will find a cast-iron stove plate, doors for furnaces, ovens and other stovety products.