How to insulate a mansard broken roof. Why is the insulation of the attic roof

September 7, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work (bookmark the foundation, construction of walls, roof design, etc.). Domestic construction work (laying internal communications, roughing and finishing). Hobbies: Mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

Some time ago finished the execution of an arrangement of the attic of the attic for winter stay. Performing work, I thought that the technology used by me is quite simple and makes the thermal insulation with your own hands from the inside will be able to even the unprepared person.

In today's material I will tell you the better and how to warm the attic from the inside with my own hands. This instruction will help you not make mistakes with which at the beginning of your builder career had to face me.

I assure you, at the end of the work of the attic floor of a wooden house, from anyone who does not need the necessary storage facility will turn into a cozy and comfortable room, for accommodation in which all your households will fight.

Features and methods of insulation of an attic room

Before telling about the ways from the inside heat insulating the cushionable space, I want to note that it is necessary to do this, even if you are not going to live in a house in the winter. The fact is that the attic, due to the features of the location, is strongly heated by the Sun in the summer, therefore, without a reliable insulation layer, the temperature inside will be uncomfortable (or it will have to put a very powerful air conditioner).

If you have already insulated ordinary residential premises and think that you know how to insulate the attic, you have to disappoint you. The thermal insulation of the room under the roof (not the usual room of the second floor, namely the attic) has some features that I am simply obliged to mention:

  1. The mansard premises geometry repeats the contours of the pitched roof, so far from the standard cube or parallelepiped. Installing the insulation will have to inclined surfaces, so the choice of heat-insulating material will have to be approached with special care. For example, the use of too soft and flexible products is completely eliminated.
  2. The rafting roof system and roofing is always performed from lightweight materials so as not to have a large load on the bearing walls of the house. Consequently, the heat-insulating pie must weigh so much so that only slightly weighting the design, otherwise the roof can collapse with a significant snow load.
  3. In addition to the roof rods, the attic has two more frontones and the floor (it is at the same time an attic overlap). If you do not perform the thermal insulation of these surfaces, all efforts to install the insulation in the rafter will not lead to any significant result.

  1. The roofing material, no matter how reliable it, can pass the atmospheric moisture, which, in turn, is able to damage the insulated layer or significantly reduce its technical characteristics. Therefore, during installation, it is necessary to securely protect thermal insulation from moisture.
  2. When fireing buildings, the fire is usually moving towards the top of the dwelling, where the attic is located. Therefore, to ensure the possibility of evacuating people from this room for thermal insulation, I personally recommend using non-combustible or badly flammable insulation. After all, the case is still exacerbated by the fact that the rapid roof system is made of a tree, which the NG category does not attract.
  3. Well, the last moment is ecology. It is necessary to take care that the insulation does not imagine the dangers for people living in the attic regardless of its operating conditions - heating, moisturizing, freezing, and so on.

To begin with, we define with the method of thermal insulation. There are two options:

  1. Warming of mansard walls. This method is resorted in the case when the roof rates are not the walls of the attic. The role of the latter is played by additional partitions from wood, drywall, plywood, and so on, which should be insulated.
    Plus this method - the presence of an additional ventilated space under the roof. Minus - Reducing the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

  1. Warming of roof rods. In this case, the thermal insulator is installed in the rafter system, after which it is possible to divide the spacious attic with the help of thin partitions, without worrying about the cold or heat. Plus the fact that all subxuring space will be insulated. And with the help of partitions, it is possible to divide it into several separate rooms, setting up additionally storage room in the attic room.

I prefer exactly the second way of insulation, so it will be discussed further.

Choosing materials and tools

It's time to decide what from the inside insulate the attic room. To do this, it is possible to use polystyrene foam, crumples, polyurethane foam, eco-friendly and many other thermal insulators, which offers to acquire a domestic and foreign industry.

But I perform the insulation of the attic with basalt wool. This material, in my opinion, best meets the requirements of the thermal insulation layer of this room.

Briefly list the most important advantages of basalt mats:

Characteristic Description
Low thermal conductivity The material is so well maintained heat inside the room, which is enough to install a layer with a thickness of 10 cm for effective thermal insulation.
Gigroscopic Basalt fibers do not absorb water and have hydrophobic properties, so the moisture that fell inside is quickly removed through the gaps, without reducing the performance properties of the material.
Parp permeability The material does not prevent air infiltration, normalizing humidity in the attic and extending the life of wooden parts.
Non-calamity Basalt wool is not ignited during the fire and contributes to the decay of the flame, giving time to evacuate people or eliminate the fireplace.

I could still talk about the pluses of mineral wool, but not this is the topic of today's article. Therefore, it just noted the better from the inside to perform insulation of the attic.

I prefer to use the basalt Matte TechnoNIKOL TECHNOLITE EXTRA thickness of 10 cm, sizes 120 by 60 cm. More dense material to buy is inappropriate, as it will not experience loads between rafters.

It is very important to pay attention to the size of the material.. I chose Matte TechnoNIKOL, because their width is 60 cm, namely, the distance between adjacent rafters in the case described by me.

In addition to direct thermal insulation, other materials are also needed:

  1. Wooden bars with a cross section of 30 by 50 mm, with the help of which a controller will be formed for ventilation gaps that contribute to the removal of moisture.
  2. Superdiffused vapor-permeable hydro and windproof membrane. Especially high quality these films are obtained from Strotex and Juta companies, so I recommend buying them.
  3. Penophol. The heat-reflecting material that I am going to use instead of a standard vapor barrier film that protects mineral wool from moisturizing from the inside of the room.

  1. Antiseptic primer. It needs to treat rafting roof supports in order to avoid the appearance of mold and fungus. You can buy composition with antipirens, thereby increasing the fire safety of the construction.
  2. OSP-slabs. They will be needed to design the crate on which the flexible tile is stacked on the one hand and the Eurovantia on the other. If you are going to use other materials, then the solid doom can not be needed.
  3. Polyurethane mounting foam. It is useful for sealing seams between mineral mats.
  4. P-shaped perforated brackets for the installation of galvanized crate. I will hold on the site installed mineral mats to their sewing with decorative material.

Well, now you can safely move on to how you inside with your own hands to insulate the attic.

Arrangement of insulation

The whole process of insulation can be divided into several steps:

So, I will explain how to perform work in each of the mentioned stages properly.

Step 1 - Laying of waterproofing and roofing material

Let's start using the waterproofing membrane, as it is installed outside the room before fixing the roofing coating. Only in this way, you can safely protect the insulation of the layer from entering it atmospheric moisture.

I will immediately say that the entire rafting system of the roof in the case described was established. However, the roofing material and the doomle on it are not yet laid.

The process consists of such steps:

  1. Rolling the first layer of hydro and windproof membrane. You need to start work from the bottom of the roof slide, gradually moving upstairs. The membrane is fixed with the help of brackets and a building stapler or nails with wide hats. It is necessary to install the film not in a latitude, but with a small savory (about 2 cm per meter) so that with a decrease in the air temperature, it has not broken.

  1. Staying the second and subsequent sheets of waterproof film.It is necessary to act in the same way as in the previous paragraph. But there is one point here. The edge of the upper membrane must be on the edge of the lower at a distance of 10 cm to ensure complete impermeability for moisture.

  1. Sealing membrane seams. This uses a sticky tape. It is necessary to simply stick to the joints of neighboring waterproofing membranes.
  2. I establish a copula. Its role is played by wooden bars, which are fixed with the help of self-tapping screws over the waterproofing membrane on the rafter supports. I preliminarily recommend them to impregnate with antiseptic and antipyarem to extend the life of the roofing structure.
  3. Fix the boards of an additional crate. They are mounted perpendicular to the rafters and are attached to self-drawing to the counterclaim. The step between adjacent details is about 40 cm.

  1. I install OSP-plates of the base.They are attached to the boards with self-tapping screws. Here you need to monitor the length of fastening fittings so that too long screws do not waste the hydro and windproof membrane below.

  1. Intim the flexible roof.To do this, the plates are glued with a lining carpet, after which the shingle shingles are fixed on it.

If you warm the attic with the already finished roof, the waterproof membrane will have to be installed on the inside. This method has two minuses:

  • the complexity of the work carried out;
  • the waterproof film will not protect the wooden rafting roof supports.

It is necessary to fix and seal the film so that it turns the rafters and seen the roofing crate. Thus, peculiar baths are formed, in which insulated material will be invested.

But before this it is necessary to prepare a cerilent space for mounting mineral mats.

Step 2 - Preparation of the Slinge System

Space under the roof, namely, the rafter system, I prepare for thermal insulation:

  1. Wooden parts purify from dust and debris, remove objects that interfer the installation of mineral mats.It is best to clean the raftered with a vacuum cleaner that allows you to remove dust, sawdust and chips, which remained after the installation of roofing material. It should also be checked if there is no sharp ends of screws, nails and so on. They can cause injury or damage insulation materials.

  1. Intimate engineering communications and insulate them.Faning and chimneys can be installed on the roof, as well as the wiring required to connect household appliances in the indoor attitudes:
    • Ventilation pipes, if they are laid in a unwitted piece of attic, it is necessary to heat up with mineral wool or foam shells.
    • For the chimney, you should construct a box for passing through an attic overlap and roof. They must be covered with thermal insulating material (most often perlite or clay), which will increase the fire safety of the room.
    • Electrical wiring should be placed in polymer flexible or rigid cable channels, which will prevent the ringer and insulation layer in the event of a short circuit.

  1. Fit wooden surface.It is better to use a universal composition with both antiseptic and fire protection properties. For example, the composition for Wood BS-13 or Firebioplastic of the guard-2. It is necessary to apply it on wooden parts using a roller or sprayer by performing a two layer treatment with an intermediate drying for 3 or 4 hours.

  1. I establish the P-shaped brackets on the side surfaces of the rafted.It is not necessary to use them, since with the proper installation of rafted Mineral mats and so the veils are becoming tight. But I'm used to reinsurance, and their acquisition is not much hurting the budget planned for insulation. But if you use your wool in rolls, without this can not do without it.

Step 3 - Installation of thermal insulation

The insulation of the attic from the inside continues. Go to the main part:

  1. Perform a cutting of mats. Mineral wool cuts into the necessary pieces with a sharp knife or a peking with very small cloths. If the distance between the rafters does you correspond to the width of the insulation, the trimming is practically not necessary.

  1. I install mats between the rafters.To do this, it is necessary to reverse the material in the middle, after which insert the insulation in the right place. Crawing, the basalt mat will take the place intended for it and will not fall out of the tilted surface.

  1. Fixed mats by brackets.It is necessary to simply bend part of the bracket so that its edge is on the surface of the mat and kept it in place. Instead of brackets, you can use galvanized perforated ribbons, which are attached directly to the lower edges of the rafter.
  2. Sealing the seams of the material with polyurethane mounting foam. Filling the gaps are needed using a gun. Moreover, act so that the composition is inside the entire gap, and not only on its surface. If you make a mistake at this stage, cold bridges can form at the joints, which will reduce the effectiveness of insulation.

To increase the reliability of the heat insulating layer, you can install not one, but two layers of the insulation. Only take mineral mats with a thickness of not 10, and 5 cm. Then the individual layers are installed so that the joints are a rupture. And the bridges of the cold can not be afraid at all, although sealing seams still costs.

Step 4 - Finishing Coating

The decorative finish of the enjoyment of the attic room is made as follows:

  1. I establish a heat transfer and a pair-protective layer.As you understand, for this, it will serve as a foam-foam polyethylene with a reflective layer of polished aluminum foil. It is mounted as follows:
    • The first sheet of the foam foil layer is established in the direction of the dwelling, and then shoots to the rafters using a construction stapler.
    • The second and subsequent sheets of the material are installed, so that there is a 15 cm at a distance between individual elements.
    • The junction of the foam joint is sampled with a double-sided sticky ribbon (inside the joint) or metallized tape (which is glued on top of the joint). It is necessary to make so that a completely homogeneous and hermetic layer is formed.
    • If the thickness of the rafters, you have such that the edge of the insulation does not reach the tree cut, then the foam need to be laid on the surface of mineral wool, fixing the roofing beams on the side surface. Otherwise, it can be cooled when air passes through the ventilation gap.

  1. Introducing the bars of the coogende to arrange the ventilation gap.You need to fasten the planks with the help of screws to the rafters on top of the foam. Thanks to these details, the gap between the finishing finish and the heat-reflecting surface, which is necessary to remove the condensed moisture.

  1. I install OSP-slabs. They are attached to the counterclaim with self-tapping screws. Here everything is standard, with the exception of some small nuances:
    • It is necessary to install sheets so that it remains 1-2 cm thick at the edges (in the frontones and gender). It is necessary to remove excess moisture and compensation for possible change in the size of the material.
    • The seams between adjacent plates should go to the gazebag (in a checkerboard) and be a thickness of 2-3 mm to avoid blocking the surface with thermal expansion of the base.
    • Fasten the stoves so that their edges are located on the bars of the counter test. The distance between self-pressing is no more than 20 cm.

On the plates later you can install the eurvagon or other decorative material. And we have ahead of the warming of the fronttones, which form the two of their four nationery walls.

Step 5 - Fronton Warming

These pieces of attic, I strongly advise you to warm the outside, using a dense mineral wool for this, which can be coated from above cement plaster. Scheme of work Next:

  1. I cook the surface to work.To do this, clean the surface of the walls from the residues of the building solutions, garbage, dirt and dust. After that, the following operations are performed:
    • Repair of damage. If slots and cracks are detected in the masonry, they must be sealed with cement mortar or blew the mounting foam.
    • Protecting the surface. To do this, take the primer composition for the brick or (not the one you have treated rafters), after which it is covered with the frontones in two layers with an intermediate drying.

  1. Intim the starting profile. This is a perforated galvanized part to which the insulating layer will be relying. It is fixed in the bottom of the wall strictly horizontally. If you need a few such parts, then install them with a small gap to compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

  1. I stick the first row of mineral mats. Let me remind you that you need to use dense mineral wool, which is intended for subsequent finishing with cement mortar. The sequence of action is:
    • The mineral wool surface is pre-reinforced by cement glue, which is evenly distributed on the stove with a spatula.

  • At a distance of 5 cm from the edge, an cement glue roller is applied from the edge. In the middle of the mat, there are also several lumpy lumps so that no less than 40% of the leaf surface is covered.
  • The detail is applied to the wall. In this case, its lower end needs to be opened on a pre-installed starting profile. Using a water level, it is necessary to check the basalt mat to be installed strictly vertically in all planes.
  • At the first layer, other mats are stuck in the same way. It is necessary to monitor verticals, and that the seams between adjacent details are minimal.
  1. I glue the second and subsequent rows of mineral mats.Here, differences compared to the procedure described in the previous paragraph. It is only necessary to monitor that the vertical walkers go. That is, the seam of the upper row accounted for the middle of the leaf of the insulation of the bottom row (as in the brickwork).
  2. After pouring the solution, the insulation layer fix the "fungi" dowels.They are set as follows:
    • Right through the mineral mats in the wall with a perforator, a hole is drilled, the depth of which in the brick or concrete should exceed 2 cm.
    • A dowel is inserted into the resulting hole, after which the core is installed inside.
    • With the help of hammer, the core is clogged into the dowel so that its hat is slightly recessed into the surface of the insulation.
    • Not only mineral mats need to fasten. "Fungi" should be installed in the seams of the insulation, so that the heat-insulating layer does not break off under load.

  1. Sealing the seams of the material.For the insulation of the seams, a polyurethane foam is used, which gluits the fibers of the insulation among themselves, preventing the formation of cold bridges in the joints of the neighboring mineral plates. It is necessary to fill the seam with a gun as close as possible.
  2. Reinforcing the surface of the insulation with alkyl - fiberglass mesh. For this, mineral mats are coated with the reinforcing composition, after which the mesh is put on it and is pressed into the solution with a plaster grater. Then there is a little more solution to be applied from above so as to completely hide the grid inside.
  3. I perform plastering the surface.The reinforced warmed surface of the frontoths is placed, after which it is drawn up by the selected decorative material. In the simplest case, you can simply paint the fronton front paint.

That's all. Some still resort to the heat insulation of the inter-storey overlap, but with such a powerful insulation that I described this procedure is excessive.

Summary

Now you know how to independently perform the correct insulation of the walls in the attic floor and the floor with your own hands using mineral wool. However, there are other options.

For example, sprayed polystyrene foam, with the help of which the thermal insulation of complex sites is easily carried out, including Mauerlalat on heated attic. You can learn from the video yourself from the video in this article about how to fulfill the PPU.

The questions remained - ask them in the comments!

To ensure a comfortable stay in the attic room during the year owners of the house, you need to purchase a qualitative view of the insulation and mounted it, taking into account all the nuances. Roofing cake only then last long, if the thermal insulation of the roof of the attic is properly produced.

Features of the insulation of the attic roof

If the insulation arrangement technology is observed, the microclimate is created inside the room indoors. On cold days it will be warm and comfortable in it, and the air does not overheat in hot weather due to the presence of thermal insulation.

Before heating the roof of the attic, homeowner will not hurt to understand the features of the roofing pie and purchase high-quality tools and building materials.

The process of thermal insulation of the roofing structures of the roof has a lot in common with the insulation of the roofs of other types for private houses, but they are presented with special requirements. This is explained by the fact that the walls of such premises are either tightly adjacent to the skates, or they are formed by the roofs and the finalons of the structure. As a result, the air in the attic on hot days is heated, and in the cold - quickly cools.

The structure of the roof cake of the roof of the attic in the direction from the inner layer to the external looks like this:

  • vaporizoation;
  • insulation;
  • ventilation gap;
  • waterproofing;
  • material for finishing coating.

The presence of all the above layers, according to the method of insulation of the roof of the attic, is mandatory, since each of them performs a specific function.

How to insulate the roof of the attic right

Increased attention should be paid to ventilation and thermal insulation, as it depends on the quality of their arrangement, how comfortable will be on the attic floor. When choosing a heater takes into account thermal conductivity - it means the ability to direct heat into the room and in the opposite direction.

Than this indicator below, the better the material will be able to protect the attic from the loss of thermal energy. This means that to ensure the desired level of thermal insulation, the roof can be mounted a smaller layer of insulation.

Most of all, heat in the heated room is lost through the roof, since the heated air always rises up. It penetrates the layers of roofing pie and moves in the direction of the coating, in which the snow layer is lying in the winter.

In the minus air temperature (less than 2 degrees), the snow due to the porous structure and the presence of inner air pockets performs the function of the outer heat insulator.

If the heat loss due to the roof is large, the coating material is strongly heated, and the snow layers begin to melt. Then, when the temperature dropped, the resulting water turns into ice. The presence of a frozen peel is very dangerous for the surface of the roof - the load on the rafter construction increases significantly. When the insulation of the attic roof from the inside is made correctly, the snow in frosty weather on it does not begin to favay.

In the summer heat from the roof inside the attic, excess of heat falls, and even the air conditioner will not help provide in the room a comfortable temperature. It is possible to avoid such a problem due to the installation of the roof of the high-quality layer of thermal insulation. Of course, in the attic floor the air temperature will be higher than in the rooms below the rooms, but this circumstance will not deliver discomfort.

Dersighted roof ventilation device

The insulation of the roof over the attic needs a special approach, which is explained by the peculiarities of its design. The ventilating of the standard roof is ensured by the presence of an attic equipped with auditory windows. As for the attic, its ventilation space is only 10-15 centimeters.

When arranging such a roof in the process of mounting the roof cake, it is important to correctly make a ventilation gap. This space between the layers of waterproofing and the insulation should contribute to the disposal of an excessive amount of moisture and prevent the overheating of the roof in winter and as a result of the appearance of ice crust.

As a result of the ventilation arrangement, the entire design will be protected, which will extend the operating period of the roof elements. On hot days due to the presence of a gap from under the roof, heat is partially allocated - this circumstance helps air in the attic not overheat.

Selection of thermal insulation material

When preparing for laying a roofing cake, before warming up an attic with a broken roof, you need to choose high-quality material. The thickness of the future insulation and the number of layers of the insulation depends on its technical parameters. In the domestic market of building materials, a huge selection of goods for the roofing device is presented.

Among them are the most demanded:

  • mineral wool;
  • extruded polystyrene foam;
  • glass gaming;
  • polyurethan.

In some cases, the use of foamed glass is allowed. For internal insulation, natural materials such as wood chips, seaweed and others are used.

Priority in choosing

When choosing the heat insulator, several technical characteristics take into account:

  • coefficient of thermal conductivity;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • fire resistance;
  • moisture resistance.

The best choice in the device of insulation of the attic roof, specialists consider material with a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.05 W per square meter and less.

The higher the indicator of the thermal resistance of the insulation, the longer the time it will last without loss of functional qualities. An important parameter is the environmental friendliness of the material. For fire safety housing, its resistance to ignition is of great importance.

Such a heater as minvat is produced from molten rocks. It perfectly holds heat, resistant to temperature changes and aggressive environments, does not rot, weakly absorbs moisture. The mats of this material may have different thickness, so they are easy to use when arranging the thermal insulation of the attic roof.

For the manufacture of glass gambles use molten glass. In this characteristic, this type of insulation there is a lot in common with the Minvata, but it has a thermal threshold below-450 ° C. It is a good sound and heat insulator. But moisture can be gathered between its fibers, so the installation work should be done correctly.

Glasswater and Minvata are inexpensive, and insulation with their use will cost minimal financial costs. But their use requires laying a thick layer of thermal insulation and a reliable device of hydro and vaporizolation.

For the insulation of the roof design, polymer materials also use. For example, the benefits of polyurethane foam are a high degree of heat conservation, durability, low weight. It does not miss steam and resistant to moisture. Read also: "How to insulate the roof - the choice of materials and the rules of insulation."

The polystyrene can be very effectively insulate the attic without removing the roof. The coefficient of its thermal conductivity is 0.05 W / m². This is a hydrophobic material that does not transmit steam. Polystyrene foam can have a gramificence class G1 - G4. By the way, polymer insulation are expensive artificial materials. Therefore, they are not used when they want to build a house only from eco-friendly products.

It should be noted that natural insulation are characterized by good thermal conductivity, but they also have disadvantages. For example, the foamed glass is very fragile, and such materials like mats made of straw and reassembly, granulated paper are distinguished by a high degree of flammability. It is necessary to know how an attic roof is insulated with natural thermal insulators, and to own the corresponding skills.

Technology laying thermal insulation

For high-quality installation of the insulation, when roofing a roofing cake, you need to study step-by-step instructions for the construction work.

The roof isolation process on the house consists of a number of actions:

  • preparation for laying insulation;
  • installation of thermal insulation;
  • fastening the material.

Phasepno arrangement of insulation looks like this:

  1. During the development of the construction project of the rafter design, it is necessary to determine the installation step of the rafter. It should not be forgotten that it should turn out to be durable and reliable, and the gap between rapid legs cannot exceed standard values. In the case when the thermal insulation material is already selected, the rafters are mounted so that the insulation plates are placed between them tight. Such technology greatly simplifies installation and minimizes the number of waste building materials.
  2. A layer of waterproofing is mounted between rafters and crate over thermal insulation. Its canvases laid mustache, starting work from the lower edge of the skate. Each subsequent row should overlap the previous layer for 15 centimeters. The film is fixed on a tree by a construction stapler. Then the counterbours are fixed, the thickness of which ensures the ventilation gap of sufficient size. Reiki fixed on rafters with self-drawers, although it is possible and nails.
  3. From the inside of the fully prepared rafter design and the insulation is fixed and reliably fixed.

Nuances of the insulation of a broken roof

Stropile legs that are made of wood or metal are cold bridges, since their thermal conductivity coefficient is worse than that of the heat-insulating materials used. Taking into account this circumstance with the arrangement of the attic, it is necessary to mount the insulation not only between the rafters. It is necessary to place the solid layer of heat insulation on top of the matte, but in this case a thinner material is used.

The technology described above contributes to improving the quality of insulation. But this method has drawbacks, it belongs that in the end, the rafters are completely closed and they will be difficult to use to fix other elements of roofing design. To ensure further installation work, it is necessary to note the location of the rafter.

From above, the heat insulation layer is placed by a vapor-permeable film that performs the function of excess moisture. The lamp is fixed further. At the final stage of work on thermal insulation, the ceiling surface is internal.

Clear execution of the instruction, how to insulate the broken roof of the attic allows the residential premises throughout the year, since a favorable microclimate will be created.

An independent insulation of the attic roof is quite feasible, but for this it is necessary to comply with the requirements for this type of roofing work.

Insulation of the attic roof: how to insulate, thermal insulation device, mansard insulation technology with a broken roof


Insulation of the attic roof: how to insulate, thermal insulation device, mansard insulation technology with a broken roof

Horry roof insulation

If the attic room remains non-residential, the air located in the underfloor space serves as good thermal insulation (along with the heating of the overlap). In the case of an attic, everything is not like this: there is thermal insulation is very close to the roofing material and the task is not only the insulation of the attic, but also create such conditions so that the entire roofing system serves a long time.

The insulation of the broken roof of an attic type must be carried out by certain rules

Immediately, let's say that all wood that is used in the construction of the roof should be processed by antiseptics. Really all: and crates and counter-crates, and rafters. All wooden details. It is also necessary to make them less combustible. To do this, they are treated with antipirens. All elements that are from the street side are processed by the compositions for outdoor work. All wooden parts facing the inside of the room, handle impregnation for internal works. If indoors use the composition for external work, the specific smell will remain for several years. If, on the contrary, wood outside can suffer: the degree of protection is insufficient. Therefore, do not save on this matter.

Yet. Before the description of how to insulate the attic roof with their own hands, it is worth reminding about what: the ventilation system should be organized in the undercase. For this, the skate is satisfied with special ventilation holes. Through them, the air from under the roofing material goes, carrying out excessive humidity. And to fall under the flooring roof it should through the skes. It is categorically impossible to do everything hermetically. From there there is a fence of air. Only so condensate will dry up and the roof will serve for a long time.

So that the insulation was correct and moisture was displayed in a timely manner, the movement of air masses under roofing material

Proper insulation of mansardes

So that the attic floor was warm in winter and cool summer, there were no problems with high humidity, they did not intent on the roof, it is necessary to properly make the insulation of the roof. But in the case of the roof, insulation, steam and waterproofing is a comprehensive solution and one without another works very badly, or does not work at all.

If the broken roof is simultaneously the walls of the attic floor, the pie will be the following (from the inside):

  • internal covering (drywall or lining);
  • doom;
  • vaporizoation;
  • insulation (the thickness of insulation depends on the region and the parameters of the insulation, for the middle of Russia, it is about 200 mm);
  • superdiffusion membrane;
  • ventzor;
  • doom;
  • roofing.

How to insulate the roof: sequence of layers of broken roofing for residential premises

The photo shows the insulation of the mallandoic roof in the graphic version. Please note: superdiffusion membrane is laid on the insulation (designated blue). Its appointment is to prevent the condensation formed into the insulation or leaked through the roofing coating of precipitations and take the steam that still got into Minvatu, providing her drying. Because with vapor permeability from 1500 g / m 2. This layer is often called waterproofing (so it is actually), only waterproofing vapor-permeable.

Laying waterproofing

Ideally, it stacked exactly as shown in the figure: wrapping the rafters and close by stacking on the insulation. Often, for savings, it is rolled over rafted, but not pulling, but making the sagging of 3-5 cm. This option works well too: the moisture falls on the surface, and then roll down and output beyond the roof. Here is another important point: the membrane should go into a catchment chute. Then the moisture will be excreted from the underpants space.

You can put waterproofing and so: with a light provis, but not exactly pulling it

A few more points on laying the membrane. It rolls over the rafter, starting below. The first row is started in the gutter of the drain. The next rolled with a screwdriver at 10-15 cm. And so to the skate. At the skate of the membrane on both sides, cut down at the top edge and fixed. Skate along the rolling pin, descending from one and the other side of the roof. It turns out a coating by which water flows to the very water collection chute.

Parosolation and its laying rules

It is worth separately telling vaporizolation. This should also be a membrane. The polyethylene or polypropylene film will not fit: it does not have the characteristics. The vapor permeability of this layer (expressed in g / m 2) must be minimal. Ideally, zero is equal. That is, this layer should not miss the pair from the room in the insulation layer. When using mineral wool as insulation, this is very important: it worst it loses more than half of its properties, and freezing in the wet state and then melting, in general crouched into the trunk.

Therefore, the vaporizolation film is also placed with the occasion of one panel to another. Moreover, these joints are sampled by a special bilateral steamproof tape (it looks like a sticky rubber). An ordinary painting or stationery will not suit. They do not provide 100% protection against steam. In addition to the joints, all the adjunctions are also punctured: from the bottom, from the sides, on top.

A line is on vaporizolation. She marks the border from which the next layer begins (this is the magnitude of the screwdriver) and the line on which the canvas are fastening with scotch

Parosolation is attached usually to the lags of the stapler brackets or, as in the drawing of the inner crate on the installation of the trim. In this case, another venzor is formed, which will dry the finish and membrane. This gap is desirable, but not required. In principle, the lining can be mounted on top of the membrane.

Heat insulation

The better to insulate the broken roof - the question is a complex and unambiguous answer to it. Mineral wools are used, only rigid, density of 30-50 kg / m 3. Since the attic roof usually has a big tilt angle, then soft materials can slide. It is for this reason that it is better to take the plates. Although in this case you have to adjust the step of the rafter under the dimensions of the insulation: it should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the plate so that the material becomes the "versiper" between the beams and kept well.

We need to lay thermal insulation so that the cold bridges can as small as possible. For the middle strip of Russia, 200-250 mm mineral wool is usually required. These are several layers of mats. When laying between rafters, the slabs are placed so that the seams of one row overlap the following. The width of the insulation, as already said, should be slightly wider than the distances between the rafters. Then the stove becomes tight, eliminating the presence of slots. If the width is more / less, you have to cut the material. At the same time, the chance to get a smooth edge is small and there are many residues.

If the dimensions of the rafter does not allow to lay the entire insulation, the planks of the required thickness are stapped by the side of the room. Between them laid the remnants of the insulation. Top on it already attach vaporizolation and, if necessary, the crate for the decoration. Such an option is even better: the cold bridges are completely excluded, overlapping even rafters. This method requires slightly large costs when installing, but in the attic it will definitely be warmer, which will reduce heating costs.

How to insulate the roof: order of work

The devices of the attic floor themes and well, which allows us to stretch the end of construction. It is immediately necessary to put on the rafter and secure the superdiffusive membrane, the crate and roofing material on it. And the insulation of the attic can be made from the inside after a while.

But note: the waterproofing layer must be mounted together with roofing. This is the main mistake of many developers: they do not fit this membrane. As a result, or it is necessary to remove the roof and put it, or invent systems that allow you to correct this flaw. The whole problem is that a cheapest solution that guarantees the normal state of materials, in which case there is no.

Warm outside

If you do everything right away, the order of work is:

  • from the side of the room, the lamp is stuck across rafters - heat insulation will be on it, instead of the crate, the cord or galvanized wire will be attached;
  • on her side of the roof, the thermal insulation material is stacked (according to all the rules, shoes, following the cracks);
  • top thermal insulation rolls superdiffusion membrane;
  • cutting a doom;
  • roofing coat;
  • from the side of the room, vaporizolation is enshrined;
  • with a crate or without mounting the finish.

The insulation of the attic roof is outside: it is easy to work, the thermal insulation is stacked on a fatey bottom

With this option, working with the insulation is easy: it is easy to lay it, it rests on the crate (laces).

Warming from the inside

This option allows you to move the internal finish for the required period (it will be useful if the lack of funds is felt). After installing the rafter system, that you need to do:

  • roll and secure waterproofing;
  • fill the crate (if necessary, a counterclaim);
  • mount the roofing material.

For the first stage, these are all the necessary work. After the opportunity to continue, you will need to make a malic roof insulation from the inside. It will be not so convenient to work: you have to make a fencing design that will not push the insulation higher than necessary. The wool itself will have to somehow fix it: he strives to fall on his head. The order of work is:

  • between lags with a step of 40-50 cm feed the planks that will hold heat insulation, providing the required ventilation;
  • the thermal insulation of the required thickness is stacked and fixed (the rules remain the same);
  • a doket is nailed, holding the layers of insulation;
  • the vapor insulation membrane is sampled and sick;
  • mounted doom and finishing material.

If you use stoves, then insulate the attic from the inside is also easy

Several comments on how to lay thermal insulation material. If these are matte from mineral wool of high density and their width a little more step between lags, everything is relatively simple: they themselves hold well.

If the rolled mineral wool is stacked, everything is more complicated. Doing the insulation of the attic roof from the inside, it is placed from below-up. Take the lace, construction stapler. Roll through your cotton, press it to the straps, secure a lace piece with brackets, drawing the letter Z. So fasten the first layer, followed by the second and the next.

In general, if you want the attic roof to be warm, it is better to use mineral wool mats of the required density of 30-50 kg / m 3. They are tough enough to keep the form well. Softy rolled materials on vertical surfaces or with a large slope are joined, settling down, the thermal insulation of the attic roof deteriorates.

These are the consequences of laying a lack of density rolled mineral wool

The better to insulate the attic roof

As mentioned above, the most popular material for the insulation of the attic roof is mineral wool. It is good, but completely imperfect: moisture is afraid. That is why it takes so thorough protection from all sides to keep her properties.

Polyfoam (polystyrene foam)

The roof of the foam or extruded polystyrene foam - EPPS. Polyfoam (MARODS PSB-C-25, PSB-C-35) has good characteristics, but during burning it highlights harmful substances, although there are self-fighting brands (with special additives). Here they are better to use them for insulation of roofing.

The main advantage of foam: low price. It is mounted simply: the versus is put between the rafters, all the joints are closed with mounting foam. Making the insulation of the attic of the attic from the inside is convenient: order the plates of the desired size - by 10-15 mm more than the lumen between the rafters - and put them tightly. Due to elasticity, they hold very well.

From the roof side also leave the ventilation gap and laid waterproofing. But it protects more wooden design, as the polystyrene foam moisture is not afraid, it does not absorb it itself, steam does not hold. Here it also lies the main drawback. Since the material of the pair does not miss, a good ventilation system is needed in the attic, and this is additional costs.

The EPPS has the best characteristics: under equal conditions, its thickness is twice as fewer than the minvats of the specified density and one and a half times less than the polyfoam. He also has a locking system that reduces the risk of gaps, through which heat will fly away. Another plus: extruded polystyrene foams do not like mouse and insects, fungi and mold will not multiply on it. What limits its application: solid price. And still need a ventilation system.

Epps grades - Extrol, Styrex, Penoplex, URSA XPS, TEKHOPLEX, PRIMAPLEX (Primaplex), Styrofoam, Kinplast (Kinplast), Heat insolite, GreenPlex (Grinplex). With the fact that the technology is the same, there are some differences in the characteristics, so compare when selecting.

Not so long ago, a new type of insulation appeared: foamed polystyrene foam. It is applied in a liquid form to the surface, entering into the reaction with air, it increases many times in size, filling all the slots and forming a monolithic layer. This is the only one, perhaps, today a way to correct the situation and warm the attic to the attic, if when installing roofing, they forgot to lay a layer of waterproofing.

This is a process of insulation foam expanded polystyrene (left) and what happened as a result. Surplus cut to the level of lag

This insulation has a good characteristic (thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.036-0.040 W / m² ° C), but the special application technology. It is necessary to organize a closed cavity in which the composition will fill. In the case of the mansard roof, the side parts are rafters, the leaf material (Feds, Gvl, Phaneur, etc.) is nourished from above.

A feed sleeve is launched into the formed cavity, from which a loose wool comes out under pressure. It fills all cavities by forming a single layer of insulation.

The process of insulation of the indulgent roof

The main advantage is the eco-house compared to all the insulation described above: it holds a pair. You can absorb moisture up to 20% of the volume, and then give it away. That is, there is no need to organize a parobarrier: humidity is regulated naturally, as in the case of wood. The ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation should still be as well as the properly organized movement of the air masses in it.

this information is the most understandable and compact. I want to insulate the roof that partially captures the second floor. Similarly, 1.7m on the upper arches of the 2nd floor. You have been going to the attic. Did bought in the pre-first version, now I reveal these vaults. The builders simply fisked Ventzazor. Zima was condensate, mold in some places. I would make insulation on your recommendations. The victim arises with the attic. Stating it not insulated or warming together with the crops of the 2nd floor. It is that in the house the ventilation is only forced. I consulted. I advised to set in the skate of 6 aerators. The attic of about 80m². I want to ask, it will help? Or leave the attic cold and deaf? Simply put the air on the ventsors will climb the attic and go to the slot on the skate. And yet. In the cornices there are no holes, He is embellished with a clapboard. I think the hole in the perimeter throughout the cornizer of the hole for the inflow of air. Wear an opinion, if it does not complicate. Thank you

If you do not plan to use the attic to use as a residential premises, it is quite possible to leave it cold. Then it will be easier to make ventilation. Everything works precisely how you have conceived - the aerators will provide natural ventilation of the attic space. At the same time, the exhaust ventilation can not be removed on the roof, but to stay in the attic. From here through the aerators, the sealed air will take himself. In this case, the problem of overgrowth of ice channels disappears.

Mansard insulation: from the inside, outside, materials


Use the attic room for housing is always tempting. For comfortable conditions, insulation of the indoor of the attic. It can be done from the inside and outside using different materials.

Instructions for mansard roof insulation

The dimensions of the attic are usually limited to roofing structures. And often the attic is not protected by carrier walls with a responding heat insulation. Therefore, the insulation of the attic roof should be performed especially carefully.

Horseful roof in the process of insulation

Warming of a naked roof with her own hands

An independent insulation of the roof of the attic is quite feasible. However, it is necessary to remember the requirements for the design of such a roof:

  • the roof of the attic roof involves the use of lightweight materials to reduce the load on the rafter system. For example, natural tile for it is inappropriate;
  • for insulation and insulation of the attic roof, you should also choose effective lightweight materials, which will reduce the weight of the structure;
  • ventilation plays a major role in the roofing system of attic. Any puncture in the development or installation will lead to an increase in the level of humidity in a residential room, a decrease in the properties of the insulation and the damage of the elements of the supporting structure.

Horsery roof insulation technology

The insulation of the roof of this type can be carried out in two ways: from the inside and outside. Each methods have its advantages and disadvantages, but the outer thermal insulation is considered the preferred method due to higher results.

Mansard roof insulation outside

Private house with a narent floor in the process of insulation outside

Installation of thermal insulation for the attic roof is quite simple and reduced to the preparation of the workspace, laying and fixing the materials:

  1. The bottom of the rafter with plywood, OSB or edged board.
  2. On top lay a vapor insulation layer. Its canvases and docking sites with a design must be glued with foil scotch. When installing this layer, it is important not to confuse the side of the material: vaporizolation functions in one direction.
  3. The next layer is insulation. When it is styling, it is important not to leave emptiness.
  4. Next, we settle over the rafted hydrobarrier. Strips of the material also glue the specialty.
  5. Then it is necessary to make ventilation gap. To do this, the rake with a height depending on the type of roofing coating is mounted on the hydrobarier along the rafters. A wavy roof suggests a rack of 20-30 mm, flat - 50 mm.
  6. At the last stage, the lamp is installed and roofing.

Insulation of the attic roof from the inside

In the photo is an attic roof in the process of insulation from the inside

The inner insulation of the roof of the attic, although it seems a more rational method (given the protection of the premises from atmospheric precipitation), still has a number of shortcomings:

  • most insulation elementary uncomfortably mounted from the bottom up, and lay out and fix the rolled materials is almost impossible;
  • often the rafter system is reinforced by various connections and runs, in the places of pairing of which remain unprotected by the heat-insulation of emptiness. It forms cold bridges, respectively, the insulation of the attic roof works badly.

The internal thermal insulation of the attic roof occurs as follows:

  1. Starting from the lower edge of the roof, we lay the waterproofing film of the mustache, sticking the edge with adhesive ribbon. At the walls, this coating should have a small margin, and surplus after the end of the installation work is removed.
  2. To ensure the ventilation gap, as well as the high-quality adjacent film to the roof material, nails feed the counterbours to the rafters.
  3. Then tightly, without gaps, lay out the insulation, for example, Minvatu.
  4. Next, the entire space is sewn the membrane of vaporizolation. It is fixed with the help of construction brackets.

Harry roof insulation foam

One of the options as you can warm the roof, using foam

Polyfoam (or expanded polystyrene) is one of the most popular insulation, which is used for thermal insulation of foundations, facades and attic roofs. If you do not know how to warm your indulgent roof as the most correctly, read our instructions, where all the steps are step-bypass.

This material has an impressive amount of advantages:

  • low cost;
  • sufficiently high resistance to stretching and compression;
  • low weight;
  • wear resistance (resistance to mechanical effects and temperature differences);
  • high indicators of moisture and fire resistance;
  • easy installation;
  • lifetime from 25 to 80 years.

The insulation of the attic roof of the foam is done like this:

  1. From the wooden elements of the roof design, we remove sticking screws and nails;
  2. The rafter is placed on the waterproofing film, fastened with a furniture stapler. If we are talking about the finished structure, the film is stacked not on rafters, but through additional rails.
  3. Then between the rafter, foam sheets are laid out, each of which knife is adjusted for the density of adjacent and eliminate gaps. Fasten the insulation can be wooden slats, glue or special dowels with wide hats.

Dersighted roof insulation scheme on the example of vapor barrier yutafol

Warming of a naked roof

By virtue of their features, the broken roof should be thermally insulated properly:

  1. Paroisolyant is mounted from the inside of the attic room with a solid carpet. The joints are sealed with a special scotch;

On the video you can see the process of mansard insulation with a broken type of roof

Mansard roof insulation materials

The choice of material for the thermal insulation of the attic roof depends, above all, from the climatic conditions of your region. Given the heat engineering properties, each insulation has its necessary heat-insulating layer.

One of the optimal options for the insulation of the attic from the inside is polyurethane foam. The photo shows the process of installing this material.

Consider insulation in popularity:

  • the most common and high-quality mansard roof insulation is basalt wool. Its installation is carried out in two layers, with overlapping joints. Most regions require laying of a layer of 150-200 mm;
  • the next popularity is polystyrene foam. Its necessary thickness is determined by the characteristics of the brand of the product;
  • modified mounting foam - polyurethane foam. This material allows you to solve the roof insulation issue from the inside. It can be applied with a smaller layer due to its thermal properties. Also distinguished by a high level of adhesion and fills the voids of the structure well;
  • contrary to the current opinion, URU is not recommended to be used as a malsourne roof as insulation. The layer required for thermal insulation layer of this material is practically unrealized. In addition, through time it can "roll down" down the design, if the installation surface is inclined.

From this video you will learn how you can warm the roof with your own hands using the available materials. There are also necessary schemes and sketches.

The insulation of an attic roof with her own hands is a rather lightweight process that does not require high training and expensive materials. Basic knowledge in the field of construction and skilled hands will allow warming up and arrange any attic roof qualitatively and for a long time.

The technology of insulation of the attic roof - tips how to warm up from the inside with their own hands, materials and scheme, video


Information article on the insulation of the attic roof: technology, materials, thermal insulation of the lone roof, insulation of foam.

If the attic room remains non-residential, the air located in the underfloor space serves as good thermal insulation (along with the heating of the overlap). In the case of an attic, everything is not like this: there is thermal insulation is very close to the roofing material and the task is not only the insulation of the attic, but also create such conditions so that the entire roofing system serves a long time.

Immediately, let's say that all wood that is used in the construction of the roof should be processed by antiseptics. Really all: and crates and counter-crates, and rafters. All wooden details. It is also necessary to make them less combustible. To do this, they are treated with antipirens. All elements that are from the street side are processed by the compositions for outdoor work. All wooden parts facing the inside of the room, handle impregnation for internal works. If indoors use the composition for external work, the specific smell will remain for several years. If, on the contrary, wood outside can suffer: the degree of protection is insufficient. Therefore, do not save on this matter.

Yet. Before the description of how to insulate the attic roof with their own hands, it is worth reminding about what: the ventilation system should be organized in the undercase. For this, the skate is satisfied with special ventilation holes. Through them, the air from under the roofing material goes, carrying out excessive humidity. And to fall under the flooring roof it should through the skes. It is categorically impossible to do everything hermetically. From there there is a fence of air. Only so condensate will dry up and the roof will serve for a long time.

Proper insulation of mansardes

So that the attic floor was warm in winter and cool summer, there were no problems with high humidity, they did not intent on the roof, it is necessary to properly make the insulation of the roof. But in the case of the roof, insulation, steam and waterproofing is a comprehensive solution and one without another works very badly, or does not work at all.

If the broken roof is simultaneously the walls of the attic floor, the pie will be the following (from the inside):

  • internal covering (drywall or lining);
  • doom;
  • vaporizoation;
  • insulation (the thickness of insulation depends on the region and the parameters of the insulation, for the middle of Russia, it is about 200 mm);
  • superdiffusion membrane;
  • ventzor;
  • doom;
  • roofing.

The photo shows the insulation of the mallandoic roof in the graphic version. Please note: superdiffusion membrane is laid on the insulation (designated blue). Its appointment is to prevent the condensation formed into the insulation or leaked through the roofing coating of precipitations and take the steam that still got into Minvatu, providing her drying. Because with vapor permeability from 1500 g / m 2. This layer is often called waterproofing (so it is actually), only waterproofing vapor-permeable.

Laying waterproofing

Ideally, it stacked exactly as shown in the figure: wrapping the rafters and close by stacking on the insulation. Often, for savings, it is rolled over rafted, but not pulling, but making the sagging of 3-5 cm. This option works well too: the moisture falls on the surface, and then roll down and output beyond the roof. Here is another important point: the membrane should go into a catchment chute. Then the moisture will be excreted from the underpants space.

A few more points on laying the membrane. It rolls over the rafter, starting below. The first row is started in the gutter of the drain. The next rolled with a screwdriver at 10-15 cm. And so to the skate. At the skate of the membrane on both sides, cut down at the top edge and fixed. Skate along the rolling pin, descending from one and the other side of the roof. It turns out a coating by which water flows to the very water collection chute.

Parosolation and its laying rules

It is worth separately telling vaporizolation. This should also be a membrane. The polyethylene or polypropylene film will not fit: it does not have the characteristics. The vapor permeability of this layer (expressed in g / m 2) must be minimal. Ideally, zero is equal. That is, this layer should not miss the pair from the room in the insulation layer. When using mineral wool as insulation, this is very important: it worst it loses more than half of its properties, and freezing in the wet state and then melting, in general crouched into the trunk.

Therefore, the vaporizolation film is also placed with the occasion of one panel to another. Moreover, these joints are sampled by a special bilateral steamproof tape (it looks like a sticky rubber). An ordinary painting or stationery will not suit. They do not provide 100% protection against steam. In addition to the joints, all the adjunctions are also punctured: from the bottom, from the sides, on top.

A line is on vaporizolation. She marks the border from which the next layer begins (this is the magnitude of the screwdriver) and the line on which the canvas are fastening with scotch

Parosolation is attached usually to the lags of the stapler brackets or, as in the drawing of the inner crate on the installation of the trim. In this case, another venzor is formed, which will dry the finish and membrane. This gap is desirable, but not required. In principle, the lining can be mounted on top of the membrane.

Heat insulation

The better to insulate the broken roof - the question is a complex and unambiguous answer to it. Mineral wools are used, only rigid, density of 30-50 kg / m 3. Since the attic roof usually has a big tilt angle, then soft materials can slide. It is for this reason that it is better to take the plates. Although in this case you have to adjust the step of the rafter under the dimensions of the insulation: it should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the plate so that the material becomes the "versiper" between the beams and kept well.

We need to lay thermal insulation so that the cold bridges can as small as possible. For the middle strip of Russia, 200-250 mm mineral wool is usually required. These are several layers of mats. When laying between rafters, the slabs are placed so that the seams of one row overlap the following. The width of the insulation, as already said, should be slightly wider than the distances between the rafters. Then the stove becomes tight, eliminating the presence of slots. If the width is more / less, you have to cut the material. At the same time, the chance to get a smooth edge is small and there are many residues.

If the dimensions of the rafter does not allow to lay the entire insulation, the planks of the required thickness are stapped by the side of the room. Between them laid the remnants of the insulation. Top on it already attach vaporizolation and, if necessary, the crate for the decoration. Such an option is even better: the cold bridges are completely excluded, overlapping even rafters. This method requires slightly large costs when installing, but in the attic it will definitely be warmer, which will reduce heating costs.

How to insulate the roof: order of work

The devices of the attic floor themes and well, which allows us to stretch the end of construction. It is immediately necessary to put on the rafter and secure the superdiffusive membrane, the crate and roofing material on it. And the insulation of the attic can be made from the inside after a while.

But note: the waterproofing layer must be mounted together with roofing. This is the main mistake of many developers: they do not fit this membrane. As a result, or it is necessary to remove the roof and put it, or invent systems that allow you to correct this flaw. The whole problem is that a cheapest solution that guarantees the normal state of materials, in which case there is no.

Warm outside

If you do everything right away, the order of work is:


With this option, working with the insulation is easy: it is easy to lay it, it rests on the crate (laces).

Warming from the inside

This option allows you to move the internal finish for the required period (it will be useful if the lack of funds is felt). After installing the rafter system, that you need to do:

  • roll and secure waterproofing;
  • fill the crate (if necessary, a counterclaim);
  • mount the roofing material.

For the first stage, these are all the necessary work. After the opportunity to continue, you will need to make a malic roof insulation from the inside. It will be not so convenient to work: you have to make a fencing design that will not push the insulation higher than necessary. The wool itself will have to somehow fix it: he strives to fall on his head. The order of work is:


Several comments on how to lay thermal insulation material. If these are matte from mineral wool of high density and their width a little more step between lags, everything is relatively simple: they themselves hold well.

If the rolled mineral wool is stacked, everything is more complicated. Doing the insulation of the attic roof from the inside, it is placed from below-up. Take the lace, construction stapler. Roll through your cotton, press it to the straps, secure a lace piece with brackets, drawing the letter Z. So fasten the first layer, followed by the second and the next.

In general, if you want the attic roof to be warm, it is better to use mineral wool mats of the required density of 30-50 kg / m 3. They are tough enough to keep the form well. Softy rolled materials on vertical surfaces or with a large slope are joined, settling down, the thermal insulation of the attic roof deteriorates.

The better to insulate the attic roof

As mentioned above, the most popular material for the insulation of the attic roof is mineral wool. It is good, but completely imperfect: moisture is afraid. That is why it takes so thorough protection from all sides to keep her properties.

Polyfoam (polystyrene foam)

The roof of the foam or extruded polystyrene foam - EPPS. Polyfoam (MARODS PSB-C-25, PSB-C-35) has good characteristics, but during burning it highlights harmful substances, although there are self-fighting brands (with special additives). Here they are better to use them for insulation of roofing.

The main advantage of foam: low price. It is mounted simply: the versus is put between the rafters, all the joints are closed with mounting foam. Making the insulation of the attic of the attic from the inside is convenient: order the plates of the desired size - by 10-15 mm more than the lumen between the rafters - and put them tightly. Due to elasticity, they hold very well.

From the roof side also leave the ventilation gap and laid waterproofing. But it protects more wooden design, as the polystyrene foam moisture is not afraid, it does not absorb it itself, steam does not hold. Here it also lies the main drawback. Since the material of the pair does not miss, a good ventilation system is needed in the attic, and this is additional costs.

The EPPS has the best characteristics: under equal conditions, its thickness is twice as fewer than the minvats of the specified density and one and a half times less than the polyfoam. He also has a locking system that reduces the risk of gaps, through which heat will fly away. Another plus: extruded polystyrene foams do not like mouse and insects, fungi and mold will not multiply on it. What limits its application: solid price. And still need a ventilation system.

Epps grades - Extrol, Styrex, Penoplex, URSA XPS, TEKHOPLEX, PRIMAPLEX (Primaplex), Styrofoam, Kinplast (Kinplast), Heat insolite, GreenPlex (Grinplex). With the fact that the technology is the same, there are some differences in the characteristics, so compare when selecting.

Not so long ago, a new type of insulation appeared: foamed polystyrene foam. It is applied in a liquid form to the surface, entering into the reaction with air, it increases many times in size, filling all the slots and forming a monolithic layer. This is the only one, perhaps, today a way to correct the situation and warm the attic to the attic, if when installing roofing, they forgot to lay a layer of waterproofing.

Ekwata.

This insulation has a good characteristic (thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.036-0.040 W / m² ° C), but the special application technology. It is necessary to organize a closed cavity in which the composition will fill. In the case of the mansard roof, the side parts are rafters, the leaf material (Feds, Gvl, Phaneur, etc.) is nourished from above.

A feed sleeve is launched into the formed cavity, from which a loose wool comes out under pressure. It fills all cavities by forming a single layer of insulation.

The main advantage is the eco-house compared to all the insulation described above: it holds a pair. You can absorb moisture up to 20% of the volume, and then give it away. That is, there is no need to organize a parobarrier: humidity is regulated naturally, as in the case of wood. The ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation should still be as well as the properly organized movement of the air masses in it.

The situation when attic is equipped by reworking a cold attic - not uncommon. If at the same time the roof stops, then there is no problems with insulation. The structure of roofing pie is made as it should be - with a waterproofing membrane and a ventilated underwater gap for weathering from moisture insulation.

When reconstructing the roof without replacing the roof, the situation often arises that its device does not allow warming according to standard technology. That is, it is impossible to immediately take and lay the heat-insulating mats between the rafter feet. This happens in the following cases:

    There is no waterproofing membrane - Sheet roof is simply laid on the crate. With such a structure, the insulation will not be protected from possible leaks and condensate on the inner surface of the roofing coating (especially critical for the metal roof). But it is impossible to continue to consolidate from the inside to the crate of the waterproofing membrane - to create a ventilated gap.

    A vapor barrier film is laid on rafters or crate and no counterclaim For ventilated gap. This option, although it has an additional layer, is actually no different from the previous one. There is only one difference here - besides the counterbalaxsecks for laying the membrane, it is necessary to make a slot in a vapor barrier film so that it is where to weigh moisture from the insulation.

The steamproof film can be laid between the roof and insulation. Moreover, the Hex Company (producer) believes it is a vaporizolation with an optimal choice to protect the insulation from condensate on a metal roof. But in this case, the structure of the cake has - the first for the roof ventilation, the second - to ventilate the insulation.

Both options for "wrong" roofing pie can be corrected without dismantling the roof.

Warming of the roof, which has no control and waterproofing

To secure the waterproofing membrane from the inside (on the side of the attic), we need two bar on each side of the rafter foot and one in the middle between the rafter.

The first pair of bars are fixed to the rafters in the direction of roofing, the central bar is fixed in parallel to them to the crate - they are responsible for creating a ventilation gap between the membrane and the roof. Need to ensure air flow In this space through the abnormal sink.

The thickness of the bar can be 3-5 cm and should be sufficient to "hold" fasteners - it's just remote strips. And the width of the bar is chosen on the basis of the requirements for the magnitude of the air gap, so this size should not be less than 4 cm.

After mounting remote slats between the rafters, the waterproofing membrane is placed. In a standard situation, it is laid over rafted from the bottom up horizontal stripes with overlap of the joints, here the laying is carried out "vertically" - one bar between each pair of rafters.

The bandwidth should be greater than the step of the rafter with the "reserve" of 5-10 cm on both sides and it should be slightly in the middle (but not more than 2 cm).

Installation of waterproofing is carried out in two stages. Initially, the membrane is pre-fixed to the rafters of the stapler. Then it is finally fixed by another pair of bars, feeding them to the rafter feet below the distance plank.

After that, the heat insulation is placed between the rafter. If it needs to be put in two layers, then the internal counterclaim is mounted.

Then there is laying of vaporizolation and installation of crates for the finishing of the attic.

Warming of the roof, which has no counterclaim, but there is vaporizolation

The difference between this version of the roofing cake is that the water will not fall into the insulation when the roof leakage. In addition, if vaporizolation has an anti-condensate surface, it will "bind" a part of the condensate, which is formed when the atmospheric air is cooled.

But this one as well as excess moisture in the insulation, we must weave from the underpants. And for this you need a connotic with the vertical location of the ventilation gap.

In this case, the waterproofing membrane can be fixed slightly easier than in the previous case:

  1. Between each pair of rafters, in parallel, they are stuffed with three or four rails (depends on the distance between the rafting feet). The rack thickness is chosen equal to the size of the air gap (usually 4-5 cm).
  2. Put between rafter waterproofing membrane. It can be cast as one vertical strip, and slices of the cloth horizontally with the overtrunder of the top canvas above the lower 15-20 cm (installation it is necessary to lead from top to bottom).
  3. The waterproofing membrane is fixed by a stapler to each rail and along the rafter feet.

Laying of thermal insulation material and vaporizolation takes place according to standard technology.

Warming of the P-shaped induction

If the roof is high, and the house area is large, then the attic can be equipped without inclined walls - with the release of the P-shaped circuit, the thermal insulation of which will not touch the roof.

In this case, the attachment of the attic will be the usual cold attic with its ventilation through the cornese and skate products.
In essence, this is a technology of insulation of a frame house, but inside the attic.

Medzard ceiling insulation:

  1. To the upper tightening, which serve the role of ceiling overlap beams, stroke boards or racks of rough ceiling.
  2. Fasten from the room. The bands are stacked and skid all the joints.
  3. From the side of the "attic" attic between tightening beams laid insulation (if necessary in two layers).
  4. On top of the insulation, the waterproofing membrane is spread. It is obligatory if it is not in the composition of roofing cake. If the roof waterproofing has, but the mats of mineral wool are not combined, then they can be put on them the usual fiberglass as windproof.
  5. From the inside, over vaporizolation is fixed by a counterclaim. It is needed that the air clearance is necessary for the functioning of vapor barrier with an anti-condensate or reflective surface.

Warming of the Monsarden walls:

  1. From the outside of the racks fasten the waterproofing windproof membrane.
  2. In that case, if the contour of the attachment from the roof side is trimmed by plywood or OSB, bars are nourished over waterproofing.
  3. Between the racks laid thermal insulation.
  4. From the inside of the racks, steam barrier is laid with a solid layer. Skin the adjunct ribbon with steam barrier ceiling and floor.
  5. Mount the crate for inner skin.

If none of the options satisfies, the roof can be dismantled, and waterproofing and insulation are carried out according to standard technology.

Attic at home - space with great potential. It has a spacious area to serve as a place for storing things or seasonal rest, and a non-trivial form, which can be the basis for the embodiment of designer ideas. Do not use its capabilities - a great omission.

Organize the space of the attic floor can be in different ways.But the most rational one is the arrangement under residential premises. This will help independent insulation of the attic from the inside. The choice of material and the order of work will also not make much work after a detailed consideration of the characteristics of the materials and the process of insulation.

What to warm?

Good, warm attic has a number of advantages over the laptile floor:

  • You can use as a residential room year-round.
  • The uninteresting form is suitable for interior design in an unusual style.
  • The top floor due to its isolated and unusualness can serve as a bedroom, an office or a children's room. Especially in the attic you like, of course, children.
  • Mansard windows are otherwise arranged than ordinary and miss a lot of light. It is useful if a children's room is placed there, and also suitable for other purposes, because natural lighting is always better than artificial.
  • When transferring the function of any room in the house on the attic floor, a lot of useful space is released.

At the same time, the insulation of the attic, despite the name, works in the opposite direction. Summer stuffing and heat concentrated under the roof of the houses are not the best comfort satellites. So that the air in the area of \u200b\u200bthe attic floor does not heat up because the sun warms the roof all day, the heat insulation is needed.

Many forget about it by choosing the insulation of the attic room from the inside, and instead of a room for all-season use, a version for wintering is obtained. In the summer there is impossible to be due to high temperatures and stuffy air.

For what to insulate the attic clearness:increase the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe house by turning the attic to the residential premises. What specifically the type will be this room depends on the individual needs of the family. A greenhouse can be placed there, the dining room (which is very convenient, because it will be easier to arrange an extract, and the smells of food will definitely disappear into other rooms), a children's room, a bedroom, a room, a room for pets, a dressing room, a guest room.

Roof design variants

The convenience of the attic for living largely depends on its size and shape of the roof, which forms the walls and ceiling of the room. The complexity of the insulation procedure, the form also affects. The roof type is laid during construction in accordance with the building design.

There are only a dozen types of roof types, to one degree or another suitable for the arrangement of the attic:

  • Single.Skat can be on the left or right side. This determines the scheme of the future home developed in accordance with the construction norms. This type of roof is not the best, but not the most uncomfortable option for the residential premises. At least one half of the attic is suitable for the person to be placed in her full growth and could move freely. The second can be left under the organization of storage systems or bed.

  • Double or tweezing.Completed both in symmetric and asymmetric versions. In the attic of this type, all free space is concentrated in the place where the root has the highest point. Under the skates it is less and less, and if the slope is flat, then most of the area will not be used.
  • Walm. The roof having four slides: two in the form of a trapezoid, two in the form of beveled triangles.

  • Tent.A variety of a hip roof, which is erected above the base of the house of the square shape. All 4 skate in this case have the same kind of beveled triangles.
  • Semi-degrees.This is a type of a duplex roof, which for practical purposes the side skates on the frontal part are cut. It is more convenient for the arrangement of the attic floor than the previous two options.
  • A little less often meets Four-sheet roof. Its frontal parts are formed by windows, and under them are rocks.

  • Horseful roof.It is recognized as optimal because it is closest to the cherished P-shaped-shaped dwelling. Such a roof does not impose any restrictions on the arrangement of functional zones inside the attic floor. It can easily be placed in the child's room, which can later be converted under its own office or bedroom.
  • Loan or multi-type. These are options for complex designer ideas. It is impossible to unambiguously say how suitable they are for the arrangement of warm attic, since their form may be the most diverse. But those species that most similar to the P-shaped form are definitely suitable for this purpose.

Calculation of the load according to SNiP

When it comes to the insulation of the attic, it is necessary to consider several types of SNiP: general rules for the arrangement of residential premises and the rules for choosing materials for the thermal insulation of residential buildings.

  • Calculation of load on the supporting structures of the building. Own weight and thickness of materials, decorative finish, the internal arrangement of the attic significantly increase the load on the supporting structures in the house of any type. The maximum allowable load for each option is its own, but the planned changes should not exceed it.

  • Proper assessment of the erected structures.For the reconstruction of the house, to which in many cases the reorganization of the attic will be attributed to the residential attic, legal grounds are needed. Each case is individual.

In one, if the documents are decorated correctly and the construction of the house occurs immediately with the attic, it can be reworked in any way without unnecessary red tape.

In a private house, the construction of the attic depends only on the height of the floors and compliance with the norms of load on the supporting structures, it is important in an apartment building to take into account its status. If this is an architectural monument, the construction of the attic will fail.

  • Compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards.They regulate the minimum height of the attic room, the degree of illumination and insolation - protection against ultraviolet rays.
  • Number of floors in the house. Building standards allow maximum three floors, while the base and semi-lifted rooms, which protrude above the ground than the meter, are also considered. If, after the insulation of the attic, it will become a full-fledged residential premises and the fourth floor in the house, then such a building will be considered illegal. In theory, it is to demolish.

  • The degree of fire resistance.It is measured in minutes and most of the provisions are:
  1. for lower floors 60 minutes,
  2. for attic - 30, since the fire spreads upwards and the risk of burning the lower floors from the attic less.

With the arrangement of the attic, especially wooden, under residential premises, you need to comply with all the requirements: to process a tree with special impregnations that prevent the spread of the flame, choose fire-resistant materials, highlighting communications.

It is also important to calculate which layer is needed when using different materials. As a rule, the recommended thickness and density of foam, minvati, polyurethane foam or foam glass is indicated by the manufacturer or GOST for a particular material.

Material Review: Pros and Cons

The materials themselves offer the construction market in excess. At the same time, only insulation is not enough because the technology implies layer-by-country use of various purposes:

  • Material for roofing and walls.These are the elements from which the base of the attic room is formed. Walls of the house can be wooden, brick, block. Proflists, Ontulin, slate, metal tile or ceramic tile are chosen for the roof.
  • Brux for a counterclaim. The timber is used wooden, mounted on rafters. The counterclaim is necessary to create air circulation so that condensate is not formed under the roof sheet.

  • Wind insulation and waterproofing.Polypropylene and polyethylene films are used, various nonwoven rolled materials. In the priority of films with anti-condensate coating. They are stacked by 20-25 cm bruises between bars and roofing material, glued together.
  • Heat insulation.Various types of insulation, which are stacked at a distance of 25 cm from the waterproofing film under slate or tiles, and 45-50 cm under leafy materials.
  • Parosolation.It is necessary from the outside of the insulation to protect it from the vapor and moisture contained in the air indoors. Various film and foil materials that prevent the formation of condensate and the greenhouse effect are used.

  • Inner doom. Decorative ceiling and wall decoration. In some cases, when the height of the roof allows you to "apply" the ceiling. The airspace between it and the roof will make thermal insulation more efficient.

If there are no questions with most points, the choice of insulation is the most responsible moment. Its selection is wide, which is at the same time plus and minus, as it is necessary to evaluate a large number of options.

Warm attic:

  • sawdust;
  • mineral wool;
  • eco-tree;
  • basalt type of wool;
  • polyurethane foam plates (PPU);
  • extruded foam;
  • penplex;
  • foam cell;
  • construction foam;
  • foil and heat transfer material.

Use for thermal insulation of sawdust is a proven and effective method. It is cheap, mixtures are prepared personally, but in the presence of alternative materials, the method is already outdated. There is a lot of time, work with widths is clean, but unpleasant, and the durability of the flooring will not differ. Environmental purity in this case is rather not on hand, because wood fibers are an excellent medium for breeding organisms.

A common foam belongs to the past the materials. A number of advantages It has: Little weight, low price, simplicity of mounting alone, quite a long service life, good insulating properties. But the shortcomings are still significant: the brittleness and fragility, delays moisture inside, a suitable medium for the reproduction of living organisms, a thick layer of material is needed.

Mineral wool is a more relevant insulation. Her advantages:

  • high thermal insulation coefficient;
  • resistant to moisture, chemicals and alkalis;
  • provides good ventilation indoors;
  • helps to increase noise insulation;
  • high fire resistance coefficient;
  • long service life;
  • strength;
  • security for use in residential premises.

Disadvantages:

  • With a bad organization of the waterproofing and vaporizolizing layers, hitting the precipitation material, the Ministry of Service loses several percent of heat transfer.
  • Can accumulate dust over time.
  • High-quality minvat is quite expensive, but is environmentally friendly. In the market there are often fakes, in which the formaldehyde content exceeds the norm. They are harmful to health and are prohibited for use in residential premises.

Equata is in its essence represents cellulose fibers per three-fourth parts of the composition, and there is a substance for the remaining proportion, allowing the use of cellulose as a building material - this is a boom and boric acid. They increase the firefightness of the wool, prevent the appearance of microorganisms, fungi, rot.

The advantages include the good ability of the insulation to maintain heat in the room, do not interfere with ventilation, high-quality insulating properties, natural and safe raw materials are equally.

The minus of the material also has, and significant. Equata is not made in the form of plates or sheets, it is a crumbly fiber, which must be applied with a wet method when using special equipment. And to work with the equipment you will need qualified installers.

In addition to eco-house, foreign manufacturers offer other types of plant fiber-based insulation: ecolean and cotton fabric insulation.

Another variety of wool is basalt. It is relatively mineral. Since its components are present in the composition, but the basis of the material is the basalt rock. Basalt reports material unique qualities.

His advantages:

  • components of organic origin without formaldehydes and harmful resins;
  • thermal insulation qualities, noise insulation;
  • does not ignite, does not support combustion;
  • biostustic;
  • plates are convenient and easy to use;
  • serves as decades.

Disadvantages:

  • high cost of warming square meter basalt plates;
  • well absorbs moisture.

Similar characteristics have the third variety of wool - glass gamble. It is more convenient to use, since the material is rolled.

Extruded foam or extruded expanded polystyrene combines the qualities and advantages of mineral plates and ordinary foam, thanks to the special production technology.

Its operational characteristics are mainly positive:

  • easy, but durable - it allows you to use it for insulation in large quantities, working with it is simply alone;
  • closed pores of the material are distinguished by moisture resistance;
  • it is easy to cut into fragments, it is harmful and not crumbs;
  • does not cause interest as the habitat, neither of fungi, nor rodents;
  • low cost.

The minuses include: vapor permeability, low fire resistance.

The group of gas-filled plastics of the new generation includes polyurethane foam (PPU). His advantages make the material one of the best for the insulation of the attic floor: it is lightweight, moisture-proof and fire-resistant, does not accumulate dust, does not attract living organisms, very durable.

There are two types: sheet and sprayed.Sheet material is very convenient because it does not crumble in the process of cutting fragments and the detail to the part can be clenched. The sprayed type of protection creates a monolithic layer under the roof, due to which it is not afraid of sediment, cold. And also it is characterized by good adhesion with various surfaces, resistant to the emergence of microorganisms and allows installation work as soon as possible.

Sprayed material creates better thermal insulation and contributes to the muffle of foreign sounds, but he has two serious shortcomings. First, it will take an expensive service of professionals with special equipment for applying. Secondly, it is so dense that "does not breathe." In the room will accumulate wet and sower air, if not possible to organize additionally ventilation.

It is advisable to apply both types of PPU at the same time.Large plots are closed with sheet material, and hard-to-reach places and gaps are treated with spraying. This will completely solve the problem even the coldest attic.

The foam glass is small and unfairly moved to the background material. The reason for this is simple - a very high price. The foam glass, as already understandable from the title, is obtained by foaming fiberglass. It turns out porous (cellular) material that is absolutely not susceptible to fire, is safe, durable and satisfies all the requirements for insulation. If financial capabilities allow, the foam glass as thermal insulation should be considered first.

A separate group from plastic and glass derivatives is foil materials for insulation of rooms from the inside. By themselves, they have a small thickness, so they are often combined with various variations of foamed cellular materials, which are inside between two layers of foil.

The advantages of reflective materials are obvious:

  • Light weight and small thickness. The attic rarely is of large sizes, especially with the fact that its dimensions are branded with a roof shape, and a 20 mm foil sheet is much more practical than 200 mm foam.
  • The material is easily cut, it will not crumble, does not slide on the surface.
  • There are variants of self-adhesive sheets, in which one side is covered with a reflective layer, and the other is an adhesive adhesive agent. They are quite simplifying installation work.
  • Foil is an excellent heat transfer. Thanks to its abilities during the cold season, heat does not leave the room, and in hot weather it remains outside.
  • Reflective hydrophobic coatings, they simply repel water.
  • It is at the same time insulation from precipitation, dust, wind, cold.
  • Despite the minimum thickness, copes with the function of noise insulation.
  • Elastic and flexible.
  • Biostustic.
  • Do not allocate toxins and formaldehyde when heated.
  • Durable.

How to choose?

The choice of a suitable insulation is the responsible stage of the living room arrangement on the attic floor.

Several important factors must be taken into account:

  • Accounting for climatic conditions. If strong frosts are rampant in the region in the cold season, the insulation must be chosen than or porous. Its structure allows the warm air to fill empty spaces and keep heat indoors. It works like PVC profiles and double-glazed windows on the windows. The more layers of cells, the better the material, therefore the layer thickness should be more than 1-2 cm.
  • For regions with high humidity in the first place there is a hydrophobicity of the material. All types of wool are undesirable here, but the derivatives of polyethylene and plastics will be just right. You can safely use polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam.
  • With a large amount of precipitation in winter, giving a load on the roof, the materials are preferred by weight. For example, foam and foil.

  • Accounting for moisture and fire indicators. Even if the climate does not replete with rains, the protection of the insulation from moisture is very important. The wet material ceases to perform its functions, as its heat resistance changes, and is gaining in weight.
  • As for fire safety, it is rather compliance with all SNiP norms. Choose a fire-resistant material is not difficult. Most manufacturers add to organic raw materials for the manufacture of insulation substances, called antipirens. They prevent the spread of fire.

  • Material ability to keep shape. Measured as a module of elasticity and resistance to deformation. It depends on whether it will create monolithic reliable protection or will begin to save and in the room will appear joints and blown places. Unconditional leaders in this respect are not leafy, but sprayed materials.
  • Material coefficients in several characteristics: heat transfer, vapor permeability, sound insulation index.
  • The composition of the substance. For the arrangement of the residential room in the attic, the use of environmentally safe materials, without resins, formaldehydes and toxic substances is recommended. Various impregnations are allowed if their presence complies with GOST requirements.

Masters and type of materials used when finishing the roof.

Under metal tile

The insulation of the Ceiling of the attic under such material is correctly carried out with the help of a layer that is not afraid of moisture. Features of the structure and installation of metal tiles are such that water can fall under it. Optimally, the use of foam materials based on plastic or glass, but if the choice fell on mineral wool, it is important to take care of a good waterproofing layer.

It is also necessary to choose a material with anti-condensate coating. After the condensation reaches a certain temperature, it will also turn into a dangerous water for the insulation layer. It is possible to solve the problem with the help of polypropylene films, geotextile coatings and superdiffuse membranes.

The disadvantages of metal tiles include the fact that its unusual form allows the precipitation to accumulate between the coating layers, which is almost impossible to be completely sealed. Maximize the damage from this will help high-quality ventilation under the roof. Natural in this case may be little, it is necessary to equip forced.

Such problems also apply to ceramic embossed coating and slate sheets. All of them have the same shape that does not allow you to fit the sheets closely.

Under professional flooring

It is less problematic in relation to leaks and condensate, as the sheets are tightly adjacent, and the compounds are processed by sealant and paint. But the material has its own features. First, it is very cold and the insulation must be high-quality and impressive in thickness. Secondly, during the rain under the roof of the professional flooring, it is very noisy, we need material with high indicators of sound absorption.

From the list of suitable materials you need to eliminate thin foil sheets, fiberglass, cellulose insulation by the type of ecolna. Their thickness and sound insulation indicators are not sufficient to provide a comfortable stay in the attic under the roof of the roof.

For attic over the bath

Along with the type of materials for the roof, it is necessary to take into account the location of the attic: or it is over all residential premises, or above the house.

One of the problematic options is a attic of the bath. With this location, it is difficult to equip a residential premises in it. It is more suitable for a relaxing room, a small living room or a game corner, which is necessary after bath procedures.

The main difficulty in choosing the materials is to the microclimate of the room above the bath, different from the microclimate over residential rooms. The temperature-humid mode is unstable, and the possibility of condensate is very high. Of course, under such conditions, neither sawdust, nor wool, nor environmental insulation based on cellulose. Here are necessary hydrophobic materials according to the type of polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam, foil coatings, good vaporizolation forced ventilation.

Winter living houses

Universal solution for the insulation of the horsard of winter accommodation does not exist. It all depends on the climatic conditions and materials used in the construction of the house.

Long and harsh winters are solid, porous, resistant to temperature drops insulation. The warm climate is any material suitable for the type of roof.

In a private wooden house, due to the properties of the tree, to keep the heat is quite thin insulation. Cellulose-based materials are suitable, glass or plastic. You can use foils with minimal thickness.

In brick houses with roofs of corrugated flooring, tiles or slate, additional insulation is needed in the form of airspace. It may be dense porous materials and several mess between them. The insulation of the frame house does not require much effort, since all features of specific climatic conditions are already provided in its design. Here are any moisture-resistant and fire-resistant materials.

How to insulate with your own hands?

The technology of creating thermal insulation in the attic is available and non-professional. The key to success is not in the experience of installation work, but in the correct selection of material, consistent implementation of actions to create a solid warmed circuit and accuracy.

Procedure Next:

  • Calculation of permissible load and optimal material thickness.
  • Choosing materials and necessary tools (including equipment for safety).
  • Preparation of the premises: cleaning, dedusting, processing wooden structures with protective impregnations.
  • Installation of crates. This is an important and mandatory stage that lovers are missing for ignorance. The device of thermal insulation of the attic without crate and the counterclaim is considered a gross mistake. It is nailed from the inside throughout the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof.
  • Laying the waterproofing film or diffuse membrane. The mount should not be a latitude, better let the material saves a little. The sheets are superimposed on each other (15-25 cm) and are attached with the help of a tape or foil. A gap of 20 to 50 cm is required between the membrane and the crate.
  • Installation of insulation. Methods are different, depend on the type of material and the location of the rafter. Rolled material can be attached with a small adhesive and fixed with a scotch or stapler. Sheet insulation for finishing the roof and walls is fitted close, taking into account a small shrinkage in the future. The adjoining is made as close as possible, the seams are processed by scotch. You can use screws and nails for very dense materials.

It is important to docile well in the corners of the fronton and in such complex areas, like Konk, Endov, Sveza. For this purpose, small parts of the material are used, separated by a sirry.

Special attention is paid to the contour of windows. The room will remain cold if warm air will go through the window slots.

The sequence is such: the insulation of the roof, overlapping, fronton, partitions, walls. The floor can be inspired both before and after.

The insulation of the floor is more variable, since it is less than the effect of precipitation, winds and frosts.

It can be a dry beep, and sawdust, and mineral wool:

  • Installation of vapor barrier. It is stacked with a membarane, fixed in different ways. As a rule, on the material there is a line that marks the width of two sheets.
  • Dooming if necessary.
  • Decorative finish.

Frequent errors

The correct thermopyrot for insulation of the roof is mounted in compliance with many nuances.

Non-professionals often make the same errors that affect the quality of the insulation of the attic:

  • lack of ventilation gap from overlap to membrane. As a result, the insulation freezes and ceases to act;
  • strong membrane sagging - it reduces the gap required for ventilation and leads to the formation of condensate;
  • attempts to save on insulating materials, laying them without the necessary joints, as a result of which the bars are formed and the heat goes out, having warmed the roof, and not the room;

  • the tampering of the material to such an extent that it is breaching and tills, losing its properties;
  • foreign eaves - this leads to the fact that the precipitates get free access to the insulation and drink it moisture;
  • lack of ventilation;
  • lack of scotch or tape in places of sheets of sheet material.

  1. Use hard and dense materials or spraying. They are fixed better and not deformed in the process.
  2. An increase in the distance between the attic ceiling and the upper point of the skate will create a "airbag" and improve the quality of the warm circuit.
  3. The clearance for ventilation is better to leave not only between the crate and the membrane, but also between the membrane and insulation.