What is the connection "Lastochkin Tail"

Figure 8. Connection on the Schip "Swallow Tail".

• a - Distance between Spikes
• b - Ship width
• b - width of the groove
• m - interval (third spike width)

In the construction of wooden houses one of the most durable and beautiful connections - "Lastochkin Tail". In it, all the details are kept each other very firmly, you can even not use glue. Each of the details of the design tightly clamps the spikes of the other, and the offset does not occur. The surface of the compound is also quite large, it is often greater than that of other structures with spinning connections.

Fig. 9. Varieties of the connection "Lastochkin Tail"

• a - Open connection
• b - semi-nailed connection
• b - semi-nailed compound made by machine

"Swallow tail" is a thickening connection that is performed in a certain order. Preparatory part: You need to measure the blanks, then place the grooves and spikes, providing mandatory spaces. Then the markup must be transferred from a wider side to the end of the part and then on the opposite direction.

After that, you should put the grooves and cut them out by the chisel. With the help of a pre-prepared board, there are places where spikes and grooves are scheduled on another board. The latter on the inner edges are screwed down at an angle to prevent the tree split. Upon completion of its actions, it is necessary that the other item is connected without glue. If necessary, it is necessary to correct the design, glue the items by pressing them so that glue is better dry.

The compound "Swallow tail" provides for the adhesion of parts with the teeth of a special form. The spikes ride in special grooves that are on the edged board (horizontally located). Boards can be connected and disconnected only when the spikes are vertically, and otherwise it is impossible. Species and methods of compounds of type "Lastochka Tail" differ only to the shape of spikes (Fig. 9).

These compounds are used only for those parts that are not covered with colored varnishes and paints. Therefore, spikes and grooves products must be evenly located along its entire width and must be identical (except extreme). This will provide good quality compound.

Fig. 10. Marking of the connection "Lastochkin Tail"

• a - B - sequence of execution

To place the connection correctly, you need to accurately pick up the squeezes of the "Swallow Tail" spikes. The sequence of operations (Fig. 10) should be clearly observed (in particular, when drawing). At first, it is necessary to mark the thickness of the adjacent part on the board-blank, then note the half of this length and the line to which the distance is three times more The thickness of this part. If it is necessary to further make the surface of the workpiece for three grooves and four spikes, it is necessary to apply the label to the line that serves as auxiliary. This distance should be divided into 10. The number of the distance we received, in units of division, must be transferred to the markup line (Fig. 10, a).

The next step: light strokes need to be noted on the workpiece the middle lines where the grooves will be located. At this stage, the middle lines of the grooves are laid on the billet (Fig. 10, b). And at the end of the intersection points of the middle lines to the auxiliary markup line through points on the "Half thickness of the board" line, auxiliary lines are also carried out (Fig. 10, B).

To place spikes, you can apply a metal sheet, for example, tin, and make a blank from it (Fig. 11). For this purpose, the master cuts out the appropriate shape, cleales the edges, processes the surface, if necessary (for example, from rust).

Fig. 11. Device for marking of spikes

After the lifting lines are transferred, you need to shake the drop-down areas on the product, as well as note the gaps between spikes so as not to confuse that cut off and what is not. It is very useful when using the chisel. And then you can start sawing.

First, those areas are separated, where the slope is the same, and then the part turn over and saw the other edges. On all sides, it is possible to check whether the disc is directed correctly and whether it is not necessary to fix the cut. When the grooves are cut, the chisel must be held only vertically, and the item at this time should be attached to the workbenk in a strictly horizontal position.

Initially, you need to make a china groove on one side of the board, about its middle. Then you need to turn the board and make the groove on the other side of it. First, according to the rules, it is better to make spikes to produce, then taken for doing the grooves on another board. You can do differently: first to do the grooves, then use them for marking spikes on the other side of the board, end. So you will not lose the markup lines on the dark tree material.

To connect the details to each other, you need to hold them hard, be sure to vertically. Cuts need to be done so that they are parallel board length. Easy mowing is right, then it is allowed left. Before applying glue to the surface, you need to process it with sandpaper, except the edges that should not be rounded.

Then join the boards in such a way that the grooves and spikes can not split. To connect the details from the tree, you need to use the image (Fig. 12). It is important to avoid straight shocks on a wooden product. It is worth applying a separate bar for protecting parts from damage and cracks.

Fig. 12. Use of a Cyanka when connecting wooden parts

Upon completion of the connection of parts using spikes, it is necessary to correct errors through a carpentry putty. It must be distributed over the slits, and not throughout the area of \u200b\u200bthe angular connection. Therefore, it is better to take a bit, and not a big spatula. The putty is better to press in those places where the correction is needed, and not in all in a row. Instead of chisels and saws for the teething of complex types of spikes today, most of the masters of carpentry art use special machinery. There are also certain types of cutters for rubbering grooves. If it is equipped with a special guide device, the wood will turn out perfect removal with uniform distribution.

Figure 13. Preventing the splitting of the grooves in the connection "Lastochkin Tail"

• 1 - Ski.
• 2 - Additional Planck

There are also effective ways to cut grooves using metal patterns. They are used by attaching to a drill. So that the grooves are not split, small squeaks make to connect the "Lastochkin Tail". They are performed on the edges on the inner area of \u200b\u200bspikes. The process of gluing the connection called "Lastochka Tail" must be made sequentially. There is also an additional plank. It will help correctly distribute the load - only connecting the grooves will receive it. This will help prevent spike damage (Fig. 13).

In a joinery, there is a fairly large number of connections of parts with each other. One of them is a "swallow tail". This type of compound can be observed on drawers, on chairs and other structures. It is one of the reliable connections. The grooves are made in such a way that if you try to break the connection, they will rest in each other. In order to make a swallow tail with their own hands, you will need a minimum of tools and a little experience in a joinery.

Types of compounds

Depending on the task, the "swallow tail" can be performed in various ways:

• Corner connections.
• Separated.
• Through.
• Decorative.
• Connection with a bevel.
• Through connection with the fold.

All types of compounds have their strengths and weaknesses, but, one way or another, they form a reliable connection of two parts. The following tools will be needed for work.:

If you have these tools, you can easily make a connection. If there is an opportunity to use, then the need for the listed tools disappears.

Through type connection

This type of compound is widely used in the manufacture of both cabinet and upholstered furniture. It is also called "box".

To begin with, the workpiece must be treated with a reference and remove excess wood. The next step is the markup for the socket. Here everything is individually and depends on the width of the board, as well as from the tasks. You need to apply a line across the workpiece at a distance of 6 mm from both edges. Then you need to divide the distance between them to the even number, on each side to postpone 3 mm and spend the line across the end.

Now you need to place the slips of the throat. The surplus that will remain, you need to mark to avoid confusion in the future.

After marking, you can proceed to cut off spikes. This can be done with an electric bike Or a common saw with a small tooth. For convenience, the workpiece can be closed in vice. With the help of the saw, you need to cut one face with each side of the spike. It should be cut carefully, otherwise there will be small gaps that will continue to spoil the appearance. The same must be done with other side spikes.

From the bore line should be cut off lateral waste, and the excess wood between spikes is easily removed by an openwork saw. The residue on both sides can be removed by the chisel or bit of the oblique edge.

Cutting spikes is finished, and you can proceed to markup and cut out the sockets. With the help of all the same vice, clamping should be clamped. Detail with spikes must be attached to the workpiece and gently mark the shape of spikes.

After marking, carefully cut the sockets along the pre-applied lines. Dutched from the main part should be done in such a way that it does not reach the line of markup. Part of the waste gently cut off the openwork saw. In order for two parts tightly among themselves, it is necessary to clean the corners with a cutter.

When two connections are ready, you can proceed to their docking. It must be remembered that the connection is collected only once. Before gluing parts, you need to make sure that they are sitting tight among themselves. If there are some irregularities, they must be removed before gluing.

If everything is sitting tightly, then the following manipulations should be made:

• Two blanks need to be anoint with glue, then combined with each other.
• Tapping with a wooden hammer, adjust two details. Surplus glue need to be removed. Otherwise, after drying, the appearance will be spoiled.
• After drying the place of gluing stripping with grinding on both sides.
• Then check the angle that should be 1/8 for solid wood, and for soft wood - 1/6. If the angle is too large, the short fiber is formed, which can affect the strength of the connection.

All these items also refer to other compound modifications. And they should be performed in the same sequence.

Decorative variety

This type of connection is used in places where you need beauty. Another compound emphasizes the art of the master. For the purpose of making a decorative species, thin partitions are used. At the end of the workpiece gently apply the markup line of the bore. Continue line marking on the end and mark the surplus. During the cutting of spikes, it is necessary to remove the waste in the same way as through through connections. Stripping must be made from the ends to the middle.

Before fixing, the workpiece must be anointed with chalk for more rigid fixation. At the end you need to place the distance between the small partitions, after which it is necessary to continue all lines of spikes to the barking line, you must not forget about the removal of excess. Most of the waste can be removed with the help of a nipseral award, and the blowers are best in line with an openwork saw. For cutting small partitions, it is necessary to strongly press the workpiece.

Slow movements along the fibers make a transverse cutting next to the line of the blowers. Operations should be repeated. After the manipulations have done, apply glue and make both surfaces between themselves.

Connection with a scope

In some cases, it is necessary to combine two types of compounds. The depth of the cut in such cases depends on the profile and chamdes.

Using a flight to lay the line of blowers on both sides. On the top edge, apply a bevel line. At the bottom of the workpiece you need to mark a certain chamfer depth. Across the end and to the line of the blowing line to do line. From the first mark to put another 6 mm long line. With the bottom edge to do the same. On the resulting marks, place the desired number of spikes. The remaining surplus to mark.

Cut spikes with a jigsaw and fit the shallow sandpaper. In this embodiment, the surplus is temporarily left. From both sides to put the line of blowers. On the top edge to make a small mark of the bevel line. On the workpiece, put markup of the nests for spikes and the deposit of the bevel on the bottom. After completing manipulations, remove all excess.

Fold connection

Quite often used in the manufacture of tables and chairs. At the bottom of the box, a special sample is made, which is called "folds", the bottom of the box is inserted into it. During such a connection in the corners there may be gaps that can be removed by offsetting the blower.

Marking is slightly different from previous versions. On the side of the sides you need to apply a line by which you can define the depths of the fold. The inner side is placed with the same parameters of the flight. Below the depth of fold, mark 6 mm, and put the next mark from the opposite edge. On the resulting marks, place the desired location of the spikes. Across the edge with the fabulous to read the line, but it must fully comply with the folded fold.

The markup of the nests is done in the same way as in the previous versions, with the help of the finished billet with spikes and cherry accessories.

Another variation of this compound is a compound with a bevel. In it, the entire connection is hidden by a sposue, which adds beauty to the product. Before assembling the workpiece you need to fit under the desired value. It should be remembered that the nests must be done at the beginning, and then spikes. Schip marking is carried out identically by another option, but with one nuance: between the line of the flight and an outer angle with the help of a special drain and low, the SCOS should be placed on each of the edges.

It should be verified that from the line of the shores before the allen are not more than 6 mm. On the end between the drawn lines, you need to post the width and position of the nests. For convenience, you can make a ready-made stencil from plywood, Press it to the side walls and continue the line of markup, after which everything is cleaned. Before gluing two connections, you must try them out. If there are defects, then remove their chisel and sandpaper.

Inclined docking

Mainly applied for overall parts. By complexity it is in the first place. In order to make a spike-groove with their own hands in this form of connection, it will take a lot more time. The complexity of the manufacture is associated with a compound feature in which all edges are located at a certain angle. Before marking the board you need to fit under the same width. The drawing to the junction of the lobby tail will greatly facilitate the task.

The drawing should be started with lateral projection, and it is also necessary to apply the thickness and dimensions. As for the vertical projection, it can be drawn, as the side. In the same way to design a side view. The figure shows the drawing of a swallow tail, the dimensions of which are a specific standard.

The next step will cut the details along the length and width. On the point x set the little on and move this angle on the inner side. The remaining ends sprinkle. Set another little on the angle of y and place it on the edges. Now we need guide lines that can be obtained by connecting marks on the edge.

Carefully tighten the enemy bevel. On the front side should be placed details with spikes. In beveled ends, you need to measure the size of the material. To the point x attach Malka and place the line on the edge of the details. Put 6-thymylimet meters from the top and bottom edge. The position of spikes can be calculated on these marks.

The bias of spikes must be placed on the inclined end of the details. For convenience, you can use the little ones. With the help of the stencil and the cooler to post spikes. The remaining surplus to mark. When cutting spikes, it is necessary to rely on the previously placed angles, after which it is possible to draw on the finished billet and cut the sockets.

All surplus at the end of the work gently removes. If the slope for some reason does not suit, then it can be joined after gluing or clean the grinding. If you have to follow the compounds of the Cyan, then you need to put a piece of bar, otherwise traces may remain.

Manual frezer

If you constantly have to engage in similar compounds and make them in large quantities, then the manual method is not suitable. There are stationary machines and, which, with a special milling cutter, will be able to make a certain amount of spikes or "tailings". For even greater time saving, you can make templates. To create spikes and tails, you must have a mill.

Before milling, the workpiece should be put up vertically for convenience. Before that, you need to place the number of tails. When milling, a waste will be formed, which is easily removed by the mill.

In the market or in the store you can purchase templates with which the case will go even faster. To the top of the workpiece you need to attach and fix the device. Then, on the molder, set the necessary depth of the cut. After milling, all connections are obtained smooth and practically do not require fitting.

If carpentry work is coming and needed a strong and reliable connection of two parts, then the optimal option will be a "swallow tail". If there is a hand mill, even a newcomer in a joinery can make spikes and tails. In addition, after the assembly, such a connection looks aesthetic.

Now you are not limited to the width of your milling template.

Fixture for milling open connections "Lastochka Tail" is usually used to work with a width of no more than 305 mm wide. But this does not mean that you cannot make such connections on the shields of any width. Just free the pattern-comb from the base that limits the width of the blanks, and secure directly on the shield. This is how it is done.

Setting

You will need two mills at once: one for the cowle cutter "Swallow tail" and one for a straight cutter that generates spikes. This allows you to do without replacing cutters and depth settings. Still prepare a couple of trial blanks, the width and thickness of which exactly corresponds to the details of your project. You need to make "swallow tails" on one board (blackboard with "tails") and spikes - on another (spiked board).

Remove the combing pattern from the device and free it from all the stops and brackets. Make from cropping two slots 76 mm wide along the length of the template. Their thickness should be such that they can be 13 mm into cuts on both edges of the template. Attach one spacer for screws to the bottom side of the template, and set aside another. Swipe the basic line on the inside of the board with "tails". To do this, put the board with spikes on the end, aligning it with the end and the edges of the board with "tails". Marking knife Mark the thickness of the blackboard with spikes on the chalkboard with "tails".

Clamps secure trial blanks on opposite sides of the spacer, placing them with internal parties to the outside and tightly pressed to the underside (Photo a).Turn this assembly template up, install the second spacer between the workpieces, and then fix it all in vice or on the front side of the workbench so that the board with "tails" has been addressed to you (Photo B).

The edge of the boards with "tails" should be located exactly in the center of the cutout. Use the salt to level the edges of both billets so that they match the finished connection.

Attach the workpiece with the template to the thick bruster fixed by the clamps on the workbench. The sandpaper on the front face of the bar prevents the displacement of the parts.

Now let's mark the sections of the material that you are going to remove. For thickening connections with a variable step (such as in the project "bed stalls") do not cut the cutter through all comb cuts. For example, for the walls of a variety of 400 mm wide, we marked the first two cuts, then they missed one and put the label under the fourth cut (Photo C).After skipping two more cutouts, marked the seventh, then they missed three and marked the eleventh cutout.

Finally, adjust on each milling milling cutters by 0.5-0.8 mm below the base line marked on the gloss with "tails" (Photo C).

Make a removable material between "tails". Then adjust the departure of both cutters so that the spikes and "tails" spoke slightly above the shield surface. Collect them flush after assembly.

Select mills only in comb cuts, located above the marks. Frewell does not rush to reduce chips, but not too slowly so that nozzles do not appear.

Form the connection

First, the tail "Tails" (PhotoD.). Then take another milling mill and make a straight milling passage in each cutting ridges for spikes. It is necessary to work carefully, since when milling spikes it is especially important that the sole of the milling is tightly adjacent to the template. The slope of the cutter leads to irregularities at the edges of the spikes.

Loosen the top clamps and move the template so that the formed spikes are located in the middle of the cuts (photo E).(Perhaps, for this, you will have to apply the Cyanka to a slightly tapping it on the spacer.) Mark all the spikes located opposite the "tailings". Tighten the clamps again and make sure that the blanks are tightly pressed against the template, and their edges are aligned. Then remove the milling flares. Depending on the template used, a small burr can remain on the workpiece in the form of a thin shavings, which can be broken, and you can again move the ridge again to clean the cutter between the remaining spikes.

Mark removable spikes, putting crossings on those located opposite "tails". Leave only the spikes located opposite the faces.

Lifting the template and fixing the workpiece again, mark the remaining "tails".

After stripping thorns again, loosen the top clamp and move the template so that the untouched edge of the boards with the "tails" was in the middle of the cutting (PhotoF.). Put the labels to complete the formation of "tailings". (Only one eyelet remains on our shields.) Then repeat the entire process to make the connection completely.

Now - accurate fit

Try to assemble the connection. Light assembly and perfect density can be achieved by moving the pattern-comb forward or back relative to the spacer. If the connection is too dense, slide the template towards the "tailings". If too free, slide it towards spikes. Dispise the edges of your trial blanks and make the following attempt until you achieve the optimal result.

When it is possible to safely connect trial blanks, knock off the connections on the details of the project. Remember that at each end of the comb, the opposite corners of the box are processed. When the board with "tails" is drawn to you, the connections for the front left and rear right angles must begin from the left end of the template. Connections for the front right and rear left corners are made at the right end of the template. Then the "tails" will be located on the front and rear walls of the lady. Before proceeding with the milling of the project details, temporarily secure them with clamps and mark each item and every angle so as not to confuse.

Swallow tail, turbid spike compound (grooves of trapezoidal form) used in mechanical engineering and joinery for reliable fastening of parts with each other. In this material, consider the manufacture of fixtures of facilitating the production of grooves in the tree using a manual millingrer.

Fixtures for a milling cutter with your own hands

The machine itself is a very ancient invention of humanity, describing the principles of milling appeared in the 16th century, and the prototype of the machine was the invention of Leonardo da Vinci, which offered to rotate the round file to increase the processing of the product, which can be considered the first counterpart.

And already the American inventor Eli Whitney over the years of life from 1765 to 1825 brought to mind all the scattered attempts to create a full-fledged machine, for which it is considered to be the creator of the first milling machine, although not all scientists agree with this approval.

And since the machine has such ancient roots, then the adaptations to the manufacture of various parts a great set, to describe them all in the light of this material is not possible, and therefore, consider only some of them, in my opinion the most important and useful.

Universal device for connecting spike grooves

factory plate for the manufacture of spike groove compound

Used with a milling cutter of the corresponding grooves and spikes, it is installed in vice, and the part is pressed the clamp to the device. As a rule, sold in stores.

appearance of the connection

Consider fixtures for milling grooves.

Put the upper part - a tabletop of 18 mm plywood with a length of 40 cm. And sufficient width to treat the most thick workpiece that you plan to connect spike.

Cut two brus 5x10 cm., Scuffing them the same length as the top. Broi will continue to play the role of clips and centering it relative to the groove in the tabletop. To prepare the top, spend the line in its center, then ellipped the gamestone from one end.

sketchy image of equipment

note

Reception should be the same width as a copy ring that you will use with your cutter. Reception should be long enough to fit the length of the longest groove that you are going to cut.

Then throw two perpendicular central lines of the adjusting groove. Finally, drill the viewing hole between these two grooves. To collect the whole design, screw the bolts in the sponge and fasten the top to the bars with lamb nuts with washers.

To use our equipment, draw the groove on the workpiece and mark on it a central line. Loosen the lambs and install the blanks between the bars so that the central line connects to the vertex line of the adjustment, check that the edge of the workpiece is opposite the edge of the vertex.

Hold the lamb. Align the milling mill at one end of the groove drawing, then mark the auxiliary lines on the top surface of the table along the edge of the milling base.

How to work properly with a spike groove

Repeat it again to mark the line of another end. Sweep the groove, bottom of the cut from the alignment of the Pillar base on the first auxiliary line, and stop the milling when the plate reaches the second auxiliary line.

With your own hands, a device for the manufacture of spikes

Spike Production Product

Made of wood and plywood conductor, shown above, allows you to cut rectangular spikes with two blowers. The processed object is the front surface from the bottom under the conductor, while the milling mill moves along the stop from above, removing unnecessary for two passages.

The product consists of two parallel basic bars, a stopper and stop - everything is made of the tree of the same thickness as the part, in this case, from the 25x75mm bars, as well as the upper surface and support made from 18mm plywood.

Basic bars should be approximately 400 mm long; Cut from plywood the upper surface approximately 200 per 250 mm and brought it to the bars as shown in the figure. Refer to the stopper at the ends of the basic bars with support. Install the stop approximately 25 mm from the end of the upper surface.

cut the spike using the device

Slide the holes under all screw heads and make sure that all the corners are rectangular. Drill the viewing hole in the upper surface to accurately put the workpiece exactly on the markup.

"Lastochkin Tail" is one of the types of thorns of wood, used in carpentry and construction. The alternating protrusions and deepening of each of the parts connected have a trapezoidal shape resembling the tail of the swallows.

Fastening this way is considered the most reliable, which explains its prevalence and popularity over the past centuries. We have prepared for you a selection of images with examples of using a swallow tail connection in various designs.

With the help of a "swallow tail" typically combine parts of retractable boxes of solid wood. Thus, it can be safely considered a sign of high quality of a particular furniture subject.

On the surface of this table, you can see an expressive drawing of a "swallow tail". Furniture designers prefer not to hide this feature, as it gives an unequivocal idea of \u200b\u200bthe material and quality assembly quality.

The box compound is very reminiscent of the "swallow tail" with the only difference that its elements have a rectangular, and not a trapezoidal form.

The structural elements of this modern house have huge grooves and spikes around the edges, which is an example of using a "swallow tail" in construction.

The bars of this house are also connected to each other with a "swallow tail".

The spikes and grooves of the "swallow tail" create counter-resistance, making this connection extremely durable regardless of whether glue was used or not. Thus assembled drawers can be intensively operated for many years.