Nowadays, the laminate is one of the most common floors of the floor covering. But masonry Any material has its own invisible moments. It is about it that will go further.

Invisible moments of laying

If you ask if you can put a new laminate on the fiberboard, then you hit the address. We will try to figure out what the difficulties of such work are and how to avoid them.

Laminate lamination on the sheets of dvp.

During the assembly process laminate-based coatings The most important grounds are outdoor bases. Only in this case it is possible to properly put the panels.

The main thing! Drops in altitude are unwrapped with a bubble level. At the same time, the value should not be more than 2 millimeters. It should be removed all the bugs and pits. Most manufacturers dictate their own height differences. But under any circumstances, the base should be varied special even, otherwise cotton lamellas will not be avoided. And the panels covered with laminate can jump out from their own connections that are called "Castle".

Thanks to this, before laying a laminate, it is recommended to correctly assess the condition of the floor. And if the base is uneven, it is necessary to remove the problem. As a rule, you can apply a mixture for putty work on the surface, without even removing the fiberboard. This is when the sheets are laid on concrete.

Best of all the base under the laminate should be straightened by removing Phaneur. And if the floor is smooth, right on it and lift the panels. If not - Make a screed. This is the best option. Practice demonstrates that if the irregularity is a considerable amount, then the screed is easier to make anything with a putty composition.

Laminate-based coatings on concrete tie

The main one, adequate to assess the condition of the basis of the floor, so as not to lay the laminate in vain on the Fiberboard and to damage everything. Nobody says against the laying of panels from laminate on the sheets. This is the usual material, and it is permitted in this case. Let us return only to the fact that the floor is obliged to be even.

Conclusion

Put the sheets of fiberboard on the floor or not - depends only on your desire. There should be no problems. Carefully look at what quality material and require quality certificates on any products in store masonry It was high quality.

How can not be laid laminate. Laminate on wooden floors in a shrimp, without plywood

If such material is chosen to finish the floor as a laminate, then it should be aware that it is rather demanding to the quality of the base. It depends on its appearance after completing the work, service life, and so on.

With the help of fibreboard, you can well align the floor covering. But nevertheless, most do not know whether the laminate can be laying on top of the Fiberboard plates. This question is interested in many people.

Is it possible to lay a laminate on Feds?

During the acquisition of the laminate, it is necessary to read the instructions on its packaging. There are usually indicated by the requirements for the foundation that laying the laminated parquet. In general, the cement-sand screed is responsible for all these requirements.

However, when performing such a laying, you will have to wait for the final drying of the floor. In such a situation, you can find another solution. Laminate can also be laid on the fiberboard. Thus, it will turn out to complete the process as quickly as possible. For this, the chip plates are primarily attached to the rough floor, and then laminate laying is carried out.

How does floor floor separate laminate?

In this case, the laminated parquet is stacked by the same principle as on the cement-sand base. It is important to prepare the perfectly smooth base, and then everything is fulfilled in the usual order.

Initially, a special substrate is laid on fibreboard plates, while on the seams it fastens with scotch. As a substrate, you can apply a plug foamed polyethylene, as well as extruded polystyrene foam. The substrate must be no more than 3 millimeters thick. If you neglect by this factor, the laminate panel is likely to last long due to the poor-quality connection.

Before using the laminated parquet, it is recommended to hold it in the room at least a pair of day. Special wedges are set all over the perimeter, thanks to which the gaps between the elements are the same. Laminate is stacked very easily.

You need to start from the corner. Panels are mounted with each other by the method of the castle connection. To make a chess pattern on the floor, you need to start the next row from half the panel. So the ranks alternate with each other, and it turns out the "chess". For durable panels, you should simply click on them and they will be closed.

If there is a need, the laminate can be slightly tied with a rubber hammer. At the end, the plinth is installed around the perimeter of the room.

Among different options for alignment and floor decoration have the most cheap and simple. One of them is the locking Fiberboard on the floor. This is a practical and affordable option that will save the surface from minor irregularities. DVP has its own features and contraindications to use - about all this, as well as how to put the material correctly, it will be discussed in this article.

Fiberboard as a material is known to everyone and everyone. Sheets are used to upholstery for the rear wall of cabinet furniture and for various other purposes. Fiberboard is a flat product made on the basis of waste of wood processing enterprises. These waste are resurrected, grinding, mixed with resins, hydropobizats and antiseptics, are pressed under greater pressure. As a result, flat and smooth are obtained, but quite soft sheets.

On a note! The abbreviation "DVP" decrypts simply - it is a fibrous stove.

The size of the Fiberboard sheet is standard - 3.2x1700x2745 mm, although the thickness can vary from 2.5 to 4 mm. From the front side, the material is smooth, and with an invalible - grungy to the touch, having a mesh pattern, which appears due to the fact that during production, the material is stacked and dried on a special grid with small cells. There is always demand for fiberboard, you can buy sheets in any building or shopping store.

Fiberboard is also used for finishing and leveling floors. Especially often it can be found in old apartments and houses, where the draft floor is usually made of wood, not concrete. Here he acts as an aligning material before laying the finish flooring - carpet, linoleum, etc. Also, the DVP can also act directly as a finishing material, but it needs to apply the final decorative layer - for example, paints.

Fiberboard plate

Description and types of dvp for sex

There are several types of fiberboard. Mostly they differ from each other in density indicators.

Table. The main types of fiberboard.

Marks DVP T, T-C, T-P, T-joints may have a quality group labeling (A or B), the front side of them can be the 1st or 2nd grade. By the way, T is an organity that is produced by a wet method. The organic can be used to cover the walls, as a substrate for laminate and other floor coverings, for sound insulation and heat insulation of floors, decorations.

Advantages and disadvantages of flooring from DVP

Fiberboard is often used to align the draft floor or base and is suitable for almost all surfaces. This material has a lot of advantages, therefore enjoys in great demand.

The advantages of laying fiberboard on the draft floor.

Disadvantages of fiberboard as an outdoor coating.

1. The material is afraid of water. When moisture, the DVP begins to deform - dust and swells. Thus, the sheet completely loses its appearance, paint on it and other finish coatings are also deformed. In the kitchen or bathroom DVP can not be used.
2. Fragility. If there are cavities under the sheets, then with a strong mechanical exposure, the material is easily destroyed. It also breaks easily with a strong leaf bending.
3. High fire hazard. In the event of ignition, the Fiberboard will be quickly covered by fire and burn.
4. Facial face quickly wear. If the fiberboard is not covered with finish materials, it is quickly over and loses its appearance.
5. If the sheets of fiberboard are laid in an unheated and wet room, then they deform, begin to get out.

How to choose the focus for the floor

In order for the total work for a long time rejoiced by the owner and served without complaints, it is important to approach the choice of material and buy a quality option. There are several criteria that will allow you to choose fiberboard, ideally suitable in each case.

Attention! Marriage includes not only mechanical, but also chemical damage. It can be oil spots or paint traces. The permissible size of such a defect is not more than 2 cm in diameter.

1. In order to use the Fiberboard as an outdoor coating, it should be done in the direction of the moisture-resistant material brand, rather dense and thick. It is best to buy the most dense sheets of fiberboard.

Fiberboard on the wooden floor: installation features

Installation of fiberboard has its own characteristics. The material is characterized by certain contraindications to use, knowing which will be able to avoid errors. For example, the Fiberboard does not fit in rooms with high indicators of air humidity and rough base, since the material is inclined to absorb moisture and because of this, lose its external and performance characteristics.

Also, sheets are not used in rooms, the floors inside which are experiencing a strong mechanical load. These are garages, manufacturing workshops, warehouses, shops, etc. Installation of sheets should be carried out at a temperature of at least +10 degrees and in the dry room (the humidity indicator is no more than 60%).

Tip! Fiberboard before installation should be seen on the prepared base for at least 7 days. If the sheets are folded on each other, then they can be pressed against them with something heavy. Thus, the material "accustomed" to the room microclimate and will be better. It is especially important to observe this measure if DVP delivery was carried out in cold weather.

It is very important to properly prepare the base of the draft floor before laying the sheets of the Fiberboard, because if it has irregularities, protrusions, depressions, then the sheets will lie unevenly.

Attention! On concrete floors, DVP usually do not fit. It is best in this case to align the floors with the help of self-leveling mixtures.

As a finishing material, the WHP sheets are extremely rare, as they require additional finishing. It is best to apply them to equalize the base for other types of flooring.

The procedure for preparing the foundation

A draft base under Fiberboard necessarily needs a proper preparation. For this, the plinths along the walls are mandatory, so as not to interfere with the work. Wooden floors are carefully examined for strength and integrity - all the tenting boards is important to pre-fix. Significant irregularities of sex are corrected - they are stupid. The procedure is not easy, and it is better to apply special equipment that can be rented or call the wizard having it.

Also, the measurements of the preparation of the base include careful removal of construction waste, sweeping dust, and the slits in the floor are climbing.

Tip! In old buildings, the wooden floor is additionally processed by antifungal mixtures.

Proper cutting of fiberboard

During installation work on the installation of fiberboard, sheets of sheets may be required. It is possible to make it right in the store, but it is important for this to know the exact dimensions of the room, where work will be performed, as well as the dimensions of all angles, how much they deviate from the norm of 90 degrees.

It is easier to make trimming Fiberboard on its own. To do this, you can use the electrolovka, the machine, a disk saw with disks to work on a tree, etc. If there are small uneven edges, they can be removed even with metal scissors.

Also, the cutting of the Fiberboard will be carried out in the field of niches, water supply and sewage pipes, the heating system, etc. In this case, the electrolovka and the template for which the required markup will be applied to the Fiberboard.

Attention! It is better to cut a sheet of fiberboard a little more than you need - small slots will be able to hide under the plinth. But from the surplus to get rid of it is harder. Especially since it is important to leave deformation gaps along the walls - under the influence of environmental parameters that will periodically change, the Fiberboard can expand or narrow. In the absence of a deformation gap, the sheet will deform.

Methods for fastening flooring from fiberboard

There are several ways to fasten the fiberboard on the base. It is glued with glue / mastic material or fixing it with nails. Also, the Fiberboard can be laid on the lags. By the way, if the fiberboard is mounted on the concrete floor, then the sheets can be attached using olifa or humid.

Lagi - floor of the fiberboard

When using a method with glue to all seams and joints, it is important to put the load so that they do not rise during the drying of the glue. The easiest way to simply navigate the futn nails or fasten, and the main disadvantage of the method is only the occurrence of irregularities in the mounting places.

Tip! You can avoid the appearance of irregularities, if in the places of fastening of the screws in the surface of the Fiberboard, make small deepening, where the fasteners are fastened. After laying the material, these places are closed with putty.

Installation of fiberboard

In this case, everything is simple - the Fiberboard sheets are covered with a completely adhesive composition and dried for half an hour. During this time, the glue is applied to the surface of a carefully prepared and projected base. Next, sheets are stacked and tightly pressed. Sheets during installation should be checked by the level of irregularities - the latter must be corrected until the glue grabbed. The joints during the installation of the fiberboard should shift on the side by 50 cm relative to each other - thus the coating will be stronger.

Installation of fiberboard on mastic

The method is often used when covering sheets of fiberboard of a concrete screed. The base is pre-ground, then sucked and the layer of mastic is applied to it with a thickness of no more than 0.6 mm. Before this, the mastic is applied to the sheets of DVP and is slightly dry. Sheets are stacked on the treated surface and pressed. The method is almost no different from the previous one.

Attention! If hot mastic is used, it is applied immediately before laying sheets and is not withstanding in the air.

Montage technology DVP on lags

Lags are wooden bars laid on a rough base. Already on top of the Fiberboard sheets will be attached. The material for lags is important to choose correctly - then the final work will be the most reliable as possible. The advantage of this method of laying Feds is the ability to make floors warmer. It will also allow to get rid of some irregularities of rough base.

Adjustable lags - one of the possible options

• the material is needed only well succeeding, it is impossible to buy it in advance and store in rawrooms, for example, basement or garage;
• the bar should be treated with an antiseptic or buy already processed;
• on the surface of the bar should not be rotten, mold, fungus;
• wood must be without cracks, bitch, coniferous;
• the cross section of the bars should be within 4-7 cm;
• the timber is chosen smooth. You can check it with a plumb or cord stretched along the rib of the product.

The lags are attached to the rough base in the same way as shown in the figure below.

A rough base must already be prepared. You can connect the lags with a nylon ring with a nylon ring - this type of fastener will not allow the design to fall out.

Walp sheets on the lags are attached so that their edges, joints accounted for directly on the ribs of bars. They are nailed with small carnations to them in increasing about 10-12 cm. Between the Fiberboard sheets and the wall should be a small gap - about 5-10 mm.

Instruction: Fixing DVP with nails

Step 1. A thorough preliminary preparation of the foundation is produced.

Step 2. A preliminary layout of the material on the floor is performed, its fit under the individual size of the room, cutting.

Step 3. Fiberboard stacked from the far corner of the room towards the exit from the room. The sheet is attached using nails with a diameter of 1.1-1.6 mm and a length of 20-25 mm, nailed to the rough wooden floor. Fastening sheets are made from the middle of the room. It is important that the hts fasteners are not sticking over the surface of the sheets.

On a note! Fiberboard Fiberboard can be performed using a construction stapler.

Step 4. In the same way, the second and subsequent sheets of DVP are fitted and attached.

Step 5. The deformation gap along the walls is closed by a plinth.

Video - How to cut out DVP?

Video - Fiberboard on the floor

Flooring outdoor coating

Fiberboard does not always serve as an option for finishing floor finish. Rather, it can be left as the final version, but it looks like a coating ugly. Usually wage sheets are covered by any type of finishing material.

Previously before work (especially if staining is planned). The material is carefully prepared:

• the remnants of the glue are removed, nails hats are masked;
• the remaining gaps between sheets are sweeping;
• the whole garbage is surrounded;
• all stains are treated with a degreasing means;
• only after that the front side of the Fiberboard can be painted or closed. Without this preparation, the floor may turn out ugly, with defects.

Finish finish will help extend the material's operational period. Paint or varnish are applied in two layers.

What are the DVP under the linoleum?

Linoleum flooding floors before laying linoleum - not a new installation technology of this coverage. This is done so that the floor is warmer. Waln sheets act as a kind of insulation. Also, the material will allow to align the surface of the rough base.

Linoleum on DVP can be laid in different ways:

• without fastening, in small areas (up to 12 m 2);
• on bilateral scotch, which is pasted with "lattice" on the basis;
• on glue or nails - this is applicable in spacious rooms.

Fiberboard - material is very common and having a wide scope of application. He found himself in the field of floor finishing.

When aligning the lower surface of the room, the Fiberboard on the wooden floor remains the most practical and affordable way. This method is suitable for the flooring on old bug, plane with irregularities, defects or with some slope. Sheets of tree fibers are most often lined with lags, but another method is also possible. Their laying is possible under linoleum or carpet with insulation. This material is not always appropriate, for example, at large loads, and all the features of the coating should be considered more.

Basic conditions for laying fiberboard on wooden floor

Each coverage for floors has its advantages and disadvantages, and focusing on the wooden floor remains the easiest and most practical. Old boards do not always make sense to tear off the floor, especially in old houses and country buildings. They provide surface integrity and provide additional heat. However, the boards over time are deformed and require partial or complete replacement.

Alignment of the surface with the help of sheets of plywood, fiberboard or chipboard (not to be confused), experts are recommended to do on lags made from a high-quality bar. However, subtle layers of these materials can not always withstand significant loads, for example:

• under running machines that give greater vibration;
• under thin metal feet of furniture;
• under heavy and bulky furniture, especially if the supports occur not to lags under the sheets of coating, but for lumets.

The choice of materials for laying and how professionally work is made on their installation. From this directly will subsequently depend on the floors:

• smooth;
• good;
• durable;
• sustainable.

The horizontal surface is a fundamental quality criterion for floor laying. Therefore, prepare the necessary tools in advance, including a universal building level, without which it is difficult to unwind the accuracy of geometry of the sexes.

No less important to properly prepare an old basis:

• clear and remove the entire construction trash;
• remove the plinth, which interferes with mounting the basis for fiberboard;
• close all the cracks in the floor for tightness;
• it is written on the floor all that peeling and crumbs;
• mark at the level of the lower horizontal at the walls, on which the surface will be equalized;
• if in the semi cottage, the country house or structure is supposed to enter the cellar, then it is better to start from its arrangements, and then put the floors.

ATTENTION: If laugs are perfectly exhibited, then poor-quality work on laying sheets DVP can spoil all the impression!

The fiberboard can not be laid too tightly without a gap, otherwise, when hesitations, their edges will be climbing, splitting. From the walls of the sheets should also retreat about 4-7 mm - this edge will still go under the plinth.

Experts recommend starting the calculation of the Fiberboard sheets from the opposite wall to the entrance door. If there is no experience in how to put fiberboard on the wooden floor, experts recommend the first layer immediately check the level for alignment when the inaccuracies are detected. Each subsequent row is evaluated horizontally with the same method - a hurry with inaccuracies inappropriate. When sticking the plates, it is desirable from above on the seams to lay the cargo, and if they are nailed, it is not necessary. If the floors are lined up under the laying of linoleum or carpet, then no more treatment is expected.

Advantages of floors from fiberboard

Wood fiber plates are a fairly common construction and finishing material applicable to repair and lining of various surfaces. Fiberboard is used not only for roughing of various designs, but also for the floor. It is noteworthy that even those who do not know how to retain the Fiberboard on the wooden floor, prefer this material - due to acceptable cost and practicality. WHO sheets are indispensable:

• when aligning the old floor;
• under the rough laying of linoleum or parquet;
• for facing surfaces (floors, walls, arches).

The main "pros":

• easy styling, but you need to be able to put lagows on the wooden floor;
• high strength of fragile in the form of a material resembling wood cardboard;
• well tolerate temperature differences at moderate air humidity;
• durability (in the absence of excess moisture);
• environmentally friendly, so that the Fiberboard this natural material use allergies with intolerance to the chemical components in a residential room;
• convenient packaging;
• affordable price.

At the same time, the sexes from the fiberboard have their own "minuses":

• when installing the floor requires additional costs for a timber under lags as a basis;
• insufficient water protection, although it is quite suitable for a children's or bedroom;
• with a large pressure or impact, a sharp heavy item may form a small break between lags;
• weak fire resistance in the fire;
• too easy for facing view;
• without protective treatment, the surface is quickly wearing, especially with a large load and movement of furniture;
• in the cheese unheated room can smear.

ATTENTION: regarding environmental friendliness is a controversial question, since the old form of release assumed another technology for gluing materials, so the remnants of Fiberboard sheets flew through the workshop and garages in the residential premises use undesirable!

If there are any doubts - see the councils of specialists: how to lay a fiberboard on the wooden floor of the video at the end of the article.

How to choose materials

Buying sheets of Fiberboard - a responsible business, and a large list of building materials from different manufacturers not only gives more choice, but also to some extent carrying confusion. Today, the risk of acquiring a poor quality or inappropriate product.

1. If the alignment of the floors is under painting, it is better to purchase a decorative phanee, which can be uploaded by patterns, like parquet or laminate - high quality floors will cost much cheaper.

2. If the appearance is not as important as the focus on the wooden floor is planned for laminate or carpet, then visual parameters are not as important as specifications. Sheets of wood fiber plates are of different sizes, soft and solid, and are classified according to their standardization scale:

• brand T with a conventional facial surface;
• T-C has a facial layer with a fine mass of wood fibers;
• T-P has the color of the facial surface;
• T-joints finely dispersed facial layer tinted;
• T-B has an increased water resistance without tinction;
• NT - semi-solid sheets;
• ST - superhard sheets with a conventional facial surface;
• ST-C - superhard sheets with a fine face layer.

Quality groups A and B are in solid stoves of the brand T, T-P, T-C, T-SP, and their facial surface implies the 1st and 2nd grade. The density of soft sheets varies: M-1, M-2 and M-3. Separately, organite is isolated - the Fiberboard of the brand T, which is made with a wet method. It is used for different purposes:

• insulation and decoration;
• soundproofing and heat insulation of the floor;
• construction of internal partitions;
• wall sheath;
• substrate for parquet, laminate, linoleum;
• for decorative lining of various shield structures.

Tip: When buying, pay attention to the appearance of organics. They must be without defects, have the same thickness throughout the perimeter, with the same tint of the surface of the sheets in one pack (batch).

Main quality indicators:

• the same sheets of sheets;
• a single thickness of the sheets of fiberboard;
• uniform uniform facial surface.

Lagged timber selection

Choosing a bar on the labels under the laying, it is important to adhere to some recommendations:

• wood stacked under the fiberboard on the wooden floor should be dry (lightweight ram - dry);
• it is not necessary to acquire it in advance and put it in the raw room - it will be swallowed and becomes unsuitable;
• use wood with the processing of special antiseptics of the 2nd or 3th grade from healthy wood without knocked breeds;
• it is recommended a cross section of a bar of at least 40mm and up to 70mm;
• suchness "leads" lags later due to the heterogeneity of the wood, but trimming without these defects can be used;
• an insignificant amount of cracks is permissible because it is a natural state for timber bar;
• * Lack of fungi and sprouted on damaged areas of wood (quality indicator);
• the swordless or "Corolred" bars is better to immediately emit or use trimming on short sections of the lag cladding.

ATTENTION: Check "Wardness" (screwing up the jumped timber) can be a plumb or a thin elastic cord stretched along any wood rib.

How to cut fiberboard?

When laying sheets of such facing materials, such as organitis or plywood, it is necessary to deal with the need for cutting, especially in extreme rows. Building supermarkets offer such services, but the exact dimensions of the room with its deviations are needed, for example, not all angles of 90 °.

ATTENTION: Remember that it is better to make sheets shorter - they will go under the plinth, but the surplus cut is very difficult.

When cutting with a cutting machine, the sheets are performed mostly and with a high-quality edge. If there is no such possibility, you will have to do it yourself:

• electric bison;
• disk saw with laser guide and discs for organitization;
• universal construction tool for cutting building materials;
• bulgarian on exact markup.

Tip: It is better to use a special homemade machine holding a grinder. Scissors for metal will help a little remove the edges. In the absence of experience, cutting is better to practice on an unnecessary piece, after studying the video at the end of the article.

Often, it is necessary to trim the sheets for removing under the pipes for radiators and water pipes, niches or protrusions of the walls. Special holes are made by an electric bike, a universal tool or reliable sharp knife. Take care of this tool in advance, for example, take it. Template Prepare from cardboard and all check in place, if everything is accurate - transfer the markup to the fiberboard.

Technology Laying Lag and Fiberboard

The stoves of the Fiberboard and the bar are unacceptably stored in the raw room, it is best to put a bar on the floor horizontally, and the sheets are vertically along the wall in conditions of approximate to room temperature.

Lags are placed on pre-prepared surfaces - a screed, self-leveling mixture or old wooden floors. As a rule, the technique, how to put the fiberboard on the wooden floor is applicable and for aligning the surface, and to update the surface. If there are small curvatures, the flooring drops from the east to the north or from the west to the East, noticeable bias or explicit irregularities, it is worth trying to either eliminate them or close them.

If there is no experience in how to tell the Fiberboard on the wooden floor, you can contact the advice on the video. In many cases, the arrangement of lags can be referred to to those skilled in the art. However, there is nothing complicated in this if there is a tool, patience and experience with wood. It is necessary to thoroughly examine the entire surface of the old floor, and if there is a fungus or mold, it cannot be left under the WHP sheets, otherwise they will "eat" all new floors. The remaining areas are treated with a special fungicide primer or a construction antiseptic for wood and other surfaces.

Tip: It is also worth removing those boards that creak - do not think that under the weight of new floors something will change. Sometimes due to defects, it is necessary to clear a significant part of the old wood flooring. Do not worry - it will hide everything under lags and a new facing!

1. If the old floors are relatively smooth, but it is required to update the surface, they are enough to spin and continue to leave the sheets of high-quality dvp - organomet. With this method of laying, the old base is necessarily thoroughly cleaned after grinding under the primer. It should dry at least 8-12 hours, depending on the composition and temperature of the air. Only polinge it is to apply glue and apply organic sheets, it is good attaching gravity in the corners and edges.

2. In the design of the lag usually use special galvanized lock nuts with a nylon ring, which prevents the displacement of thread nuts.

The devices do not allow them to unwind and loosen the design. When tightening the upper locks, fixing the lags in the position that is required in this section of the floor, they slightly plunge into the wood structure. Because of this, the surface level may be slightly lower supposed. Tightening the upper locks, monitor the laser level boundary, given this error. Specialists also sometimes remove 2 levels, extra - under the control.

3. All lags are stacked in a similar way - see the scheme:

Preliminary calculations on the interval between them and the level of gender correlate:

• with a cross section of a bar;
• floor bias;
• sizes of licensions of organity.

Bruks are assembled directly to the old wooden base, and where there is no boards at the base, instead of them under the lags, the segments of the bar or other pieces of wood are installed. It is not recommended to make a partial clamp of the lag or leave the gaps under them in the floor, before wealing the fiberboard. Before laying them on the floor, it is worth reminding that for the draft floor, as a substrate for linoleum, parquet or carpet, use less expensive plates with a small thickness, and for finishing finish - high-quality solid organitis.

ATTENTION: Bought sheets of DVP stand 2-3 days in a residential room - for acclimatization 2-3 days. Before the sticker, you can slightly spray the back side of the sprayer or to handle the primer - for better adhesion. When installing nails do it optional.

Features of fastening Fiberboard on lags:

• sheets on lags lay out so that the seams converge on the bars;
• organit (sheets of fiberboard) are nailed with screws, self-drawing or nails with a step of about 100mm along the edge and after 120-150mm in the center;
• the next row is easy to fit, with a small gap - about 2-3 mm;
• all sheets on the parallel are stacked similarly.

Features of fastening Fiberboard for glue:

• the mounting glue is applied to the entire surface of the sheet and is well distributed without incl.
• the sheet should be soaked 25-30 minutes;
• the glue is applied and over the primer on the floor;
• the sheet is pressed and checked horizontally.

Features of the finishing floor processing:

• it is important to remove all the remnants of the glue speaking into the gap;
• large gaps between sheets close up with a putty or sample reinforcing ribbon - under the draft floor;
• the surface of the Fiberboard can be varnished or painted.

The popularity of laminate is explained by a very successful combination of its price and quality. The price makes laminate competitive practically with any other flooring. Practicality, durability, wear resistance, simplicity of laying, lightweight flooring during operation do laminate "welcome guest" for any repair. Add to this a huge selection of types of laminate texture, up to simulating natural wood, stone and ceramic tiles, and color solutions that offer manufacturers. Laminate itself is improved as an outdoor coating, and lock panels are improved. A reliable adhesive compound today has become almost archaic, a Lock-lock system came to replace it, then click-lock, 5G and Megalock locks, aluminum locks. All this, by and large, for the sake of achieving one goal - to maintain the demand for the most popular flooring.

With all the simplicity (in fact, the apparent) laying of laminate with castle compounds, the problem of preparing the base for laying the coating remains. The base for laminate must meet the following requirements:

• To be smooth.
• Be durable and stable.
• To be dry

The concept of "smooth base" under the laminate gives the set of rules of the joint venture 29.13330.2011, according to which the difference in height should not exceed 2 mm along the entire length of the level of 2 meters long.

Another important indicator is the bias of the base. In terms of rules (this is paragraph 5.19), the bias must be within 0.2% of the corresponding size, while not exceeding the values \u200b\u200bof 20 mm for the premises.

These requirements are associated with the fact that with more significant height drops, during the operation of the panel connections, there will be serious loads and, accordingly, will be quickly braid. There will be slots between the panels, and to repair the floor of the laminate will not work.

Choosing plywood as a base for laminate

Plywood has all the properties to be an excellent base under laminate:

• Plywood without problems can be aligned wooden floor.
• Plywood is distinguished by a slight weight and large stiffness.
• Plywood is characterized by the ability to withstand significant loads.
• The cost of plywood makes it a very affordable material.
• Plywood allows preparatory work in the shortest possible time.
• Plywood is not demanding of the conditions in which it is operated.

Choosing a brand of plywood

Plywood is produced in the form of a multilayer material from several compressed layers of different types and thickness. Number of layers odd. In terms of moisture resistance, plywood happens:

• FOF is suitable for use in residential areas, low moisture resistance.
• FC is suitable for use in residential areas, average moisture resistance.
• FSF - brand with increased moisture resistance. For use in residential premises is unsuitable due to the toxicity of the glue used in the composition.

The material is made of coniferous species of trees and from birch. Suof breed plywood is resistant to mold and fungus.

Important! To align the wooden floors, with the subsequent laying of the laminate, it is worth choosing a FC brand (from birch). For these purposes, the plywood of grade III is suitable. Grade I does not have flaws, grade II can have bitch and veneer inserts, but their cost is much higher, and there is no point in purchasing the material of such varieties as the leveling layer. Grade III has multiple cracks and bitch in the structure, but this will not affect the performance characteristics. The material of the grade IV does not always have a smooth surface, and this condition is mandatory when laying a laminate.