Making interroom doors in a home workshop - the process of exciting and creative. In the presence of the necessary tools and materials, the simplest door is going in two to three hours. More complex structures that combine practicality with the workshop are mounted in two or three days. Doors decorated with artistic threads, glass stained glass or forging elements, forces only as the most ampful and patient.

Technology for the manufacture of interroom doors

The production of doors on an industrial scale is delivered to the conveyor. Machines with software control and robotic assembly are capable of producing several high-quality products per minute. In essence, such aggregates are prototypes of 3D editivity printers. Door blocks are stamped from any materials and can have any necessary dimensions. Large production associations integrate several wood processing industries. Partly this explains the low price of the final product.

But if you disassemble the technological process into composite parts, it turns out that it is quite realistic to recreate it at home. The main share of financial costs and labor is on the installation of the door canvase and only 5-8% - to assemble the door box. Some doors collected by hand are superior to the quality of factory products, especially if they are inlaid with artistic trim. The masters who produce real masterpieces in small private workshops are still preserved. Their doors are characterized by sophistication and long service life.

Despite the high cost, handmade doors are in great demand.

The only condition required for this is the use of quality materials. They are quite difficult to get them at home. First of all it concerns drying. Wood moisture should not exceed 10-12%, which is impossible to achieve without a special dryer.

To achieve moisture of wood in the range of 8-12% only in the factory conditions

The timber is connected using glue and internal mini spikes.

An independent manufacture of the door block consists of several stages.

1. Drawing up a project corresponding to specific conditions. It reflects the dimensions of the doorway, the design of the door (swing, sliding or pendulum), material available, door fittings.

   A detailed drawing displays the door block in several projections indicating all sizes and decorative elements.

2. Production of the door leaf. It is necessary to determine and harvest the desired amount of the selected material - wooden boards, plywood or MDF.
3. Making a door frame. As a rule, at home the door frame is made from a wooden bar.
4. Selection of fasteners for assembly. Confirmants, screws, joinery glue, ducts (wooden nails), etc. To enhance the rigidity of the structure, it is possible to use additional elements - metal brackets, corners and the like parts.

   Sizes and fasteners are selected based on the tasks

Video: Technology production of interroom doors

Calculations and drawings for the manufacture of interroom doors

Before the preparation of the required materials, the door of the door is calculated. The total area of \u200b\u200bthe door leaf is a product of the height of the width: S \u003d A · b, where S is an area, a - width, b - the height of the door. For convenience, the drawing is drawn in a reduced scale. Real dimensional dimensions are applied to the plan, and the calculation of the size of the door block is made taking into account the technological gaps around the perimeter of the sash.

When drawing up a working drawing, any convenient scale is used.

It should be borne in mind that a minimum of 2.5-3 cm of free space is required between the frame and the wall. It is thanks to this gap, the door can be aligned inside the opening in the horizontal and vertical plane.

The greater the thickness of the door leaf, the more you need to leave the gaps

For example, if the hole in the wall is 1 m in width and 2.05 m in height, the dimensions of the door block at extreme points will be:

• width 100 - 6 \u003d 94 cm;
• height 205 - 6 \u003d 199 cm.

If we consider that the frame is collected from the bar, then to determine the size of the canvas, it is necessary to take the thickness of the bar plus 6 mm (3 mm on each side). Suppose the door frame is a bit of 60 mm wide. So, the width of the door leaf will be 94 - 2 · 6 - 2 · 0.3 \u003d 94 - 12 - 0.6 \u003d 81.4 cm.

The size vertically is calculated in the same way. The only correction is the height of the door canvase above the floor. It can be done from 3-4 to 10 mm. Using the lower gap, air ventilation is adjusted between rooms.

Video: assembly door box do it yourself

Step-by-step instructions for the manufacture of interroom doors

The fillenteated door consists of a frame, for the manufacture of which is used an array of wood. The inner plane is replaced by any decorative finishing material (but maybe genuine). The mount is carried out with the help of spikes and grooves, but sometimes the installation with the use of strokes is also practiced.

Equipment and tools

Today, the manual electric tool is in the arsenal of any wizard. Therefore, the assembly of doors is not a challenge. If some of the following devices do not turn out to be, it can always be rented for several days. This will save money and will be positively affected by the quality of the final product.

1. Hand mill with a set of shaped cutters. With it, the grooves are pulled to install loops and locks. It is desirable to have several cuts of small diameter for sampling smoothly rounded recesses and a long milling mill for a lock socket. When making a fillety door with a milling mill, the grooves are cut into the installation of Filinics, as well as decor elements.

   Set of standard cutters allows you to make a sample of grooves under the accessories

2. Circular saw with a disk under wood cuts. Cutting materials is carried out using a special line in the kit.

   The ruler allows you to do smooth cuts on the specified sizes.

3. Electric drill with a set of dried different diameters. In the presence of additional drill, the drill performs the functions of the screwdriver.
4. Bulgarian (USM) and grinding circles. For polishing and grinding parts, sandpaper of three types is needed: brands 40, 80 and 120. Processing begins with rough "sprinkles" and ends with a thin selection of wood texture.

   Sand paper is attached to the desktop with velcro

5. Measuring tools. Roulette or ruler, square, caliper, hydraulic level or construction level for installation of doors, pencil, marker.

In addition, ordinary hand tools are needed:

Materials

At the disposal of masters today a huge variety of materials, the price of which is quite accessible. You can choose them for every taste and color, ranging from the simplest waterproof plywood or laminated fiberboard and ending with oak or mahogany boards.

Here we will look at the example of the manufacture of interior fillennaya door of the swollen design. This is the most time-consuming option from the point of view of the preparation of component parts. Having understood with the principle of assembling such a door, you can install door blocks from other materials without any difficulties.

When the material is harvested, you should pay attention to the following points.

1. Humidity of sawnwood. Even well dried wood, being in a wet environment, drinks moisture. Store materials need in a dry, ventilated room at room temperature.
2. If the sunlight falls on the wood, the surface quickly darkens and becomes gray. It is desirable to protect the workpiece from the direct hit of ultraviolet radiation.
3. With mechanical exposure on the surface of the wood, chips and dents are formed, which are poorly grinding. Boards prepared for the door leaf should be protected from shocks and bends.

For the door with a width of a cloth of 70-80 cm, such materials will be needed.

1. 6 robust meters of dry boards with a thickness of 35 to 40 mm, preferably tonic, without a large number of bitch, resin pockets and cracks. Healthy knots are allowed no more than one by 30-40 cm. Signs of wood defects are blue or pink stains on the front or end surface, such boards are rejected. The optimal width is 10-15 cm.

   Plotted boards go on sale with a planed surface, which greatly facilitates their processing

2. Laminated chipboard for the manufacture of Filinics. Color is selected on wood texture, but other options are also possible depending on taste preferences. Some wizers use different shades to create a certain contrast. The thickness of the chipboard is 16-18 mm. Filian's area is calculated in advance by project drawings. Sometimes waste from facing panels of the desired size.

   Wide color gamut laminated chipboard simplifies the decoration of the door leaf

When drying, the PVA glue becomes transparent than and the widespread use of it in the furniture production is due.

3. Euro shop, confirmant, or single-element screed.

   Due to the screw thread shape, one-element screed firmly connects the parts from wood

4. Varnish or water-based paint for finishing finish.

   The quality of varnish is determined by its resistance to external influences.

Do it yourself

Preparatory work is carried out at the first stage.

1. Processing boards. Rough defects are removed from the surface. Planed boards are grinding emery No. 40 or 80 depending on their condition. With the help of the nozzle on the grinder, the grinding will not take much time. However, this operation is dusty, so it is better to use a respirator and a vacuum cleaner to ensure safety or go out.

   Grinding boards Bulgarian is better to produce on the street, in the open space

2. Details of the door flap framework are cut. These include two vertical and three horizontal racks. To do this, use a disk circular saw. All sections are kept strictly under 90 o, then carefully remove the chamfer from the outer edges. If the compounds in the corners of the diagonal, racks and crossbars are cut at an angle of 45 o.
3. Cutting fillet details. Dimensions are taken from the drawing. For the correct cutting used as a coal.

   All items are cut in accordance with the calculated dimensions in the drawing

Then milling work.

1. In the inner ends of the boards cut the grooves of a depth of 20 mm. The stock of several millimeters will provide the possibility of adjusting the position of Filinics. The deepening is located strictly in the middle of the frame of the frame. Width - in the thickness of the laminated chipboard with a permissible backlash of 0.5 mm.

   The selection of the groove is carried out with a cutter with a large working diameter

2. Selects recesses for loops and castle. For a uniform distribution of the loop load, it is customary to be placed at a distance of 20-25 cm from the door corners. The lock is embedded at an altitude of 90-110 cm from the floor (unless, of course, it is provided). The cylindrical cutter is made through a hole for installing the door handle (100-110 cm from the floor).
3. At the ends, Filönok remove small chamfers. This will make it easy to assemble the design to a single whole.

   The chamfer is removed in the form of a smooth rounding

4. When all the details are ready, the pre-assembly is carried out. It uses a cynica, but without strong blows - with such a calculation that the door will have to disassemble again. Defined "tight" places. Where necessary, a fitting with a file or an acute chisel is made. It is important to keep the geometry of the door canvase. After the assembly, the parameters are carefully measured: the length, width and diagonal of the rectangle. Throughout the cloth, they must have the same values. Straight angles are controlled by a square.
5. The door canvas disassembled, the details are grouped. It is necessary to achieve uniform texture, smoothness and colors.
6. The final assembly is performed. Fillinka is placed on PVA glue, which is applied to the deepening of the grooves. The door frame angles fasten the confirmants. It is necessary to withstand a certain time so that glue is dry. For this period, it is desirable to pull the entire design of clamps.

   Clamps fix the door shape at the drying time of glue

After that, you need to give the doors planned appearance. Most often, such designs are covered with water based lacquer. But you can use various versions, giving wood desired color.

Inserting from laminated chipboard significantly saves the means and at the same time adorns the door. The outer surface covered with waterproof film is well clean, does not collect dust. The material copes well with the task of sound and thermal insulation of the room.

The door of plywood do it yourself

If the manufacture of the fillenteau door will seem difficult to you, there are simpler options for self-assembly of interroom doors. For example, it can be made from moisture-resistant plywood. For this, a wooden bar is used (preferably cuisine) with dimensions of 0.5 x 0.25 cm. Plywood is selected with a thickness of 0.5-0.7 mm.

The assembly is as follows.

1. The frame of the door leaf of wooden bars is mounted. In the inside to increase the stiffness of the sash, they are added from one to four transverse crossbars.

   The frame of the canvas is the right rectangle with ribbon ribs

2. From a whole piece of plywood, a sheet is cut on the shape of a frame. You can sew the cloth and slices, but for this place the internal crossbars are needed at the joints of the sheets.
3. The space inside the doors is filled with insulation or sound-absorbing material. In this role you can use mineral wool, foam, foam rubber or even a dry foam of foam balls. So that the filler is evenly distributed over the cavity of the canvas, the door is placed in a horizontal position.

   Filler for interior doors can serve as mineral wool

4. Sew the other side of the sash in the same way. Phaneur is fixed with nails or screws. To prevent the formation of slots around the perimeter, the door is messed with glue.
5. Conduct the finish finish of the canvas. In this capacity, all sorts of self-adhesive films, paint coatings or sheets of decorative veneer are used.

   When finishing the interior door of plywood, the door perimeter is enhanced by screws or ripples

Cutting accessories is carried out in normal order.

The only thing you can not forget - all the components are attached to the "solid" base, that is, to the transverse elements of the door frame.

The loops are mounted in the deepening made in the plywood.

An interesting solution of the outer decoration of the interior door is the use of outdoor laminate. High characteristics of wear resistance make the door is very durable and invulnerable to mechanical damage (scratches, chips, etc.). Laminate picks up a small thickness (up to 6 mm) to excessively do not burden the loops. The assembly is carried out on glue or decorative screws with wide hats.

How to make a box for interior door

The dimensions are affected on the dimensions:

All three parameters must be combined so that the frame is free to, with a reserve of 2.5-3 cm, was located inside the loop. And at the same time, the door leaf, placed inside the box, should have a gap from 2.5 to 4 mm. Calculation, as a rule, do, repulscing from the dimensions of the web, if it is already ready. The board is selected with a thickness of 35 to 60 mm. Naturally, the thicker the door box, the more stronger and more reliable.

Consider a specific example. Suppose the width of the door leaf is 80 cm.

1. To determine the inner size of the box, you need to add to 80 cm another 6 mm (2 · 3 mm) - it turns out 806 mm.
2. Taking into account the thickness of the boards, we calculate the external dimensions of the door frame. With a billet with a thickness of 50 mm add 4 cm, since 1 cm will go to the manufacture of a quarter. We get 806 + 40 \u003d 846 mm.

The thickness of the box is usually tied to the depth of the doorway (the thickness of the wall). In practice, this value varies from 70 mm to 125 mm (brick thickness).

Approaching with the calculations, go to the manufacture of the box.

1. The billet is plane from the front side, polished and polished.
2. There is a groove form in which the door sash will be in a closed position. Depth is equal to the thickness of the door leaf. The reference plane makes a width of 10 to 12 mm.

   If you plan to equip the frame with a rubber seal, an additional groove is cut for its installation.

3. Cut a quarter. To do this, it is necessary to adjust the depth of the cut in the circular saw. First, deep propyl is done, then - small. Smooth passage is carried out using a ruler attached to the circular to the desired width.

   Quarter is selected using a circular saw

4. A quarter is grinning and aligned with a chisel to an ideal state of painting.
5. P-shaped frame design is assembled. The connection is made either with screws or cutting spikes on the upper crossbar and sidewalls. In the latter case, additional brackets are used to increase the rigidity of the connection.

   The spike compound of the frame requires an accurate fit of parts

Rama is ready. You can install it in the doorway.

Video: Production of a door frame

Finishing of slopes of interroom doors

Sleeps are called the plane of the wall of the doorway, which is impossible to close with platbands. For the extraction of this wall interval, many ways are invented. The most common of them are:

• shuttering with cement-sandy solution;
• facing with panel badges from MDF;
• gypsum trim.

Outcasting

Walking, of course, the most time consuming method. In addition, it takes time to prepare the wall and drying the solution. But such slopes have one undeniable advantage - they are durable, they are not afraid of shocks and well strengthen the door frame. For those who are important, the strength and reliability of the doorway, we list the stages of the formation of slopes.

1. The support beaches and corners are installed. As a rule, ready-made metal products that are today in every construction store are used. The price of them is quite accessible. An outer corner is somewhat more expensive, but also within reach. On the perimeter of the door frame mounted beacons, around the perimeter of the wall - metal corners. You can fasten them using alabaster or stapler.

   Primer increases the clutch of plaster with a wall

2. A solution is prepared. The dry mixture is poured into the tank for the knead (bucket, trough, etc.) and thoroughly mixed with a mixer. The final state of the solution is a consistency of thick sour cream.
3. The trunk is thrown into the surface of the wall and smash. When the volume is completely filled, the rule or a wide spatula stretches on beacons. Thus, the slope plane is formed. Work starts with side surfaces, the vertical plane fill in the last turn. The solution for the upper crossbar is mounted thicker so that it does not window.

   To equalize plaster applies a raner corner with a grid

4. After the mixture is frozen (about 24 hours), the finish shtclotting of fine consistency is applied to the surface. For this use spatulas. As a result, the surface is displayed to a smooth and smooth state.
5. Completes the installation of slump polishing and painting. Empty paper fixed on a flat bar is removed all irregularities and roughness. The paint is applied in several layers. Before painting, the slopes are covered with primer.

   To protect the surface of the doors when plastering of slopes, a polyethylene film is used

Video: How to plaster slopes in interroom

Finishing with MDF panels

Another way to arrange the slopes is to install panels from MDF. This is the fastest "dry" option. For its embodiment, you need ready-made panels, selected in the color frame color and canvas. To secure them in various ways, the easiest way is to install in the grooves of the frame. But since we consider the option of self-making doors, there will be no grooves in it. In this case, installation on:

• glue;
• wooden or metal frame;
• dowels.

Immediately alleged that the glue is again the mounting foam, which has universal properties. The frame is constructed in rare cases when the discovery is much thicker (or wider) than the door frame. Dowels are the option universal, but in need of additional decorative refinement. Hats screws need or hide vat, or cover with plastic plugs.

When cladding the slopes, metal profiles for drywall are used

Let us explain on the example and we describe the installation of the problems on the mounting foam. The procedure for the next.

Video: Installation of door voltage, the most detailed description

Ducks from drywall

The movement of the doorway facing by plasterboard is similar to the installation of good panels. The difference lies only in the fact that instead of the mounting foam, a special glue glue is used. The dry mixture is divorced to a thick consistency and is applied to the wall is the islands after 15-20 cm. The plate of moisture-resistant plasterboard, carved in advance, glued onto the wall. After drying the glue, the surface of the GLC is putty, the cooling corners are installed in the corners.

Video: Production of slopes from GLK

Installing cash for interior door

There are several ways to install platbands depending on the design. The most progressive is the attachment to the grooves. But for this it is necessary that the corresponding recess is cut on the box itself. With independent manufacture of doors, this is an additional and time-consuming operation. Therefore, more often the casing is attached to glue (foam) or invisible nails.

When connected diagonally, it is necessary to use a stouse or end saw

It is believed that the first way is easier, and the second is aesthetically.

For the installation of platbands, the wizard is used in a stub - a device that allows you to make sections at a direct and sharp angle. Since the form of the platband is quite complicated (from flat to a convex concave surface), without a stouch cannot do.

Stuslo allows you to cut smooth angles when bilking

The order of action is usually this.

Installation of platbands on the mounting foam is carried out in the same order. Only instead of nails use a polyurethane foam, which is applied by a thin layer on the surfaces glued.

Video: Installing platbands on interior doors do it yourself

During the manufacture of interior doors with their own hands, remember the elementary safety standards. The use of electric tools with high turns is always associated with the risk of injury. To avoid lesion to the current, it is strongly recommended to work only with good electrical appliances. When covering doors with varnish or paint, use safety glasses and respirator.

In the manufacture of the door leaf, the hot pressing method is used. A distinctive feature of this method is its high performance. Due to the high temperature, there is a rapid curing of glue between the parts of the door leaf. One of the distinguishing features of modern production is the use of cellular aggregate - the most promising material for the manufacture of ultralight and durable structures. Placing a cellular aggregator between the trimbs, the stiffness of the structure is more than 100 times.

Cellular aggregate is one of the most economical of the current modern construction materials currently. Considerable strength at low weight, environmental purity, good heat and sound insulation, the ability to persist perceive perceivers, high processing manufacturability - the main factors that provide high quality products.

The cells, depending on the size of the cell, the density of the cardboard, differ in their physico-mechanical properties. For doors, cells are mainly used with a cell of 45 mm, 35 mm and less, and compressive strength in a stretched state of at least 0.5 kg / cm 2 (GOST 23233-78).

Innovative cellular filling technology is used in wooden structures, such as doors, furniture shields, interior elements of premises, transportation pallets, as well as in aircraft construction and manufacture of sports equipment.

Special attention in the manufacture of door cloths by hot pressing using cellular aggregate is given to such technological parameters as temperature, time, pressure. Strictly compliance with high-quality products.

Door leaf interior door Consists of the following details:

1. Frame
2. Brous for cutting accessories (loops, handle, castle)
3. Sheaving
4. Cellular aggregate

For the manufacture of a frame used chipboard (wood-chipboard GOST 10632-89), MDF (wood-filling plate of the average density of GOST 27680-88), or their combination, depending on the wishes of the customer. The framework parts are made glued in width and length. Bonding wood in width is produced on a smooth fugu according to GOST 9330-76, and in length - on a toothed spike according to GOST 19414-74.

In the location of the loops, pens and other devices, the longitudinal bars of the frame are increased by width due to the additional installation of bars. In the frame of the chipboard - under the castle and under the loop. When processing the parts of the door leaf frame, the thickness tolerance is very important and must be reduced to a minimum. In the lower and upper frame bars, channels are made in the form of holes or grooves to exit evaporation of water from glue, in order to avoid deformation of the canvas from hot vapors and moisture.

The cellular aggregate is stretched according to the size of the door column frame, is installed in the frame and fastened with the brackets to the frame. The thickness of the aggregate is selected in accordance with the thickness of the frame in such a way that when pressed it does not occur or failures, on the surface of the trim.

The main function of the cellular aggregate is to fill the emptiness between the trim and give the rigidity of the canvas, to eliminate the deformation of the trim from both sides of the canvas, and thus get a uniformly flat surface.

For the manufacture of the trimming, TSN-40 is used, the HDF stuck with a decorative film. Details are harvested with a bunch of frame size for subsequent formatting in finishing. Applying hot curing resin or PVA glue, depending on the model manufactured by the model, on the door canvase frame, with a fixed cellular aggregate, is carried out on a special linen equipment. The most applied resin hot curing CF, as it is convenient in operation, requires lower press pressure, and is also a cheap material. The framework is stacked on one trim, the second sheathing is stacked on top and is laid in the press. The press is set to pressure that creates an effort of a little more strength to compress the cells on the surface of the pressed product.

Billets, after their deployment and complete cooling is processed to the desired dimensions at the format-cutting center.

Steel profile products.

The bar of the door frame, the platband and the dotting element are also manufactured from the chipboard, MDF, or combinations thereof, again, depending on the type of the batch manufactured by the order. Special equipment is processed by the workpiece to the desired geometric shapes and sizes and lining (loose) with decorative films. The process of lamination of jogging products, in fact, is an identical process of lamination of door canvases. The only difference is that in the first case, the parts have a complex geometric shape, and in the second are absolutely flat. And, accordingly, various equipment applies for these purposes.

All technological operations are performed on high-tech machines of imported and domestic production.

In the manufacture of all types of products, several developments are applied concerning individual operations and materials used and the enterprise's intellectual property.

Artistic glass processing

Before giving each individuality and uniqueness, our designers are developing original design for each model. At the same time, the buyer can take direct participation in creating a picture or ornament you need. We have the opportunity to realize any of your imagination into reality.

For these purposes, two types of glass processing technology are used on the glass manufacture of glasses.

1. Matting. It is sandblasting the workpiece of the desired size in special chambers or processing glass of matting paste. There are solid matting, and with a pattern. In the latter case, so that the drawing is highlighted on the overall area of \u200b\u200bglass, the stencil of the necessary form is used.
2. Fusing. This is the process of sintering pre-cut from glass fragments of the pattern on the substrate. For these purposes, high-temperature furnaces are applied. Figure and substrate elements are cut from a special glass of different colors.

Other materials:

The door block can be installed inside the building, or at the output / entrance to it. Door installation usually occurs during construction or repair. If the old door is not suitable for a new interior, then it is worth thinking about replacing it. The door should harmoniously fit in the doorway and the interior setting: in color, decorative elements, material. The installation process of the door blocks is simple. You can cope with this task yourself, having the necessary knowledge, tools, materials and time for this.

In the modern market there is a large assortment of door blocks. To make the right choice, you need to decide on the installation site of the door block, as well as what function should do the door. Any owner of the apartment prefers those models that have high wear resistance and long service life. At the same time, it should be simple care and maintenance. But, most importantly - it should isolate the room from outsided sounds.

The material from which the door is made, determines its quality. The tree is a solid material that is suitable for the manufacture of door interroom blocks, as well as input.

The wooden door block from the valuable tree of the tree will no longer be cheap. But the tree is a wear-resistant material. Therefore, such a door will serve more than a dozen years to its owner.

Swing models are the most popular. They are installed in apartments, offices, public buildings. Such a model is suitable for any type of apartment, only if it does not have a very small living area.

When choosing a wooden interior door (all block), it is worth paying attention to the following:

• Opening type;
• Dimensions;
• Material;
• Decorative finish;
• General design.

Based on the above-listed criteria, you can easily choose the appropriate version of the door block, which will perfectly fit into the interior of the apartment / house / cottage.

Installation of door blocks: Mounting stages do it yourself

Usually, doors manufacturers deliver door blocks as separate items that need to be collected and installed independently. You can collect the door block with your own hands if you follow the installation instructions.

After the final choice of the door frame is made (its size, type, material, design, coating, decorative elements are taken into account, the product should be purchased in advance. It is necessary to leave the door for several days indoors: while you can check how the material reacts to the surrounding conditions (humidity, temperature). Do not leave the door and its components next to heating devices or water.

Installation of the door block is carried out at the very end, after all repairs are fulfilled.

Installation steps:

• Put the door vertically;
• Make marking for loops and lock (handles);
• Mark the plots for milling under the loop;
• Choose surplus by a chisel;
• Drill holes for self-tapping screws (places for the installation of loops);
• Install loops on a screw;
• Attach a vertical rack to the canvas (3 mm clearance should remain);
• Mark the location of the tongue of the castle and loops;
• Choose surplus by a chisel;
• Attach loops and fix on the screw;
• Make measure vertical racks;
• Cut them up to the desired size;
• Put a door frame on the floor;
• Under the door racks put rails for the entire length of the door leaf;
• At the racks to attach a horizontal crossbar;
• Chatting the seat of the hammer;
• With the help of a screwdriver, install the door frame in the opening;
• Turn the screws into the connections in the corners.

The assembly of the door block is carried out quickly and efficiently if you follow the installation instructions. Many people, having a little experience, set interior doors on their own. The most important thing in this case is to accurately measure the dimensions of the openings, make all the work neatly and accurately.

Installing the input door will require more time, since in addition to installing the entire block, you will need to install the lock besides the usual handle. The lock can be located separately, or be on the handle itself of the interior door. But on the front door, usually the lock is installed separately from the handle.

What is the door block: design

Almost all interior doors have the same design. Before choosing and buying the door, it is worth knowing what the door block consists of. Thus, it is possible to estimate the quality of this product.

Door units are different. There is a panel, massive, shield, deaf, double, with glass.

But, regardless of the type, the block consists of standard parts.

The door block consists of:

• Boxes;
• Threshold;
• Doblyar;
• Canvas;
• Naploa;
• The forth;
• Mounting seam;
• Platbands;
• Naschelnik;
• Accessories;
• Sealer.

All listed enters the standard door block. All this is sold more often by one set, which is installed independently. If some element has failed, it can be replaced with a new one. Now there is an opportunity to purchase separately any component for the door and change to the new one. To do this, it is not necessary to change the entire door block.

Production of door blocks: Production according to the drawings

Door blocks are manufactured according to the drawings on woodworking production. This exists certain standards and sizes. Production of boxes, frames, sealers are carried out of coniferous species of trees. This is a breed of 1-3 class. Facing of the panel canvases is made on a circular saw. Drilling-groove machines are used to cut down the sockets under the loop, locks and fittings.

Making the door block can be independently, having special hand / electrical tools or machines.

Glazed doors have two frames - outdoor and internal. Their cross section should be the same. Bruks from which the frameworks make, should not be rotten, curves falling out.

The classification of interroom doors is very extensive. But, regardless of the type of door, its quality must match the price. Wooden door blocks (and individual elements) are made from affordable and inexpensive materials: pine, spruce, larch. These materials are combined with others: MDF, plywood, metal, glass. Dear and prestigious doors are made of valuable rocks: oak, cherries, beech, walnut. Such products have a high price, but have a beautiful color and texture.

Installing the door block with your own hands (video)

Selection and installation of the door block is an important and responsible moment. It is worth choosing carefully, based on its quality: material, type, dimensions, sound insulation, thermal insulation, design. You can install the interior door yourself and quickly if you have all the necessary materials, tools and follow the instructions stages.

The doors in design distinguish frame and panel. Frame doors consist of strapping (bars) and aggregate (panels). Due to the fact that the manufacture of frame doors is laborious and, in addition, a lumber of high fortifications is required, the wood consumption is twice as much as on the door of the panel design, their use is limited.

Shield doors (see the scheme below) are a frame filled with middings of various structures, lined on both sides of plywood or solid fibreboard 5 thickness 3. ..4 mm. The door canvases 1 have good sound insulation qualities, durable, form-resistant, hygienic and easy to operate.

An external and internal doors differ in purpose. And in appearance - deaf and glazed. Made doors with a shelling of 6 or without it. Door blocks can be single and double, right and left.

Shield doors can be with a solid, fine-pass and cellular filling of the canvas. Outdoor and entrance doors in the apartment are made with a solid filling of the middle. The door canvases are made with a thickness of 40 mm.

Door blocks for interior doors are manufactured without a threshold, and the ongoing can be with or without threshold.

a - general view, b - cross sections of the middle fabrics of the canvas of two-gas shield doors, in the cross section of the door cans on the edges; 1 - Blizzard, 2 - Natchelik, 3 - Laying on glass, 4 - Glass, 5 - Facing, 6 - Opening.

Wooden doors external for residential and public buildings (see the scheme below) Depending on the purpose, it is divided into input and tambourines (H), service (C), hatches and lazes (L). Type H doors are manufactured by panel or framework, and types of C and L - with shield canvases. Shield doors can be made with a wrapping. The doors of the types of N and C make one-bed, double, glazed or deaf, with or without threshold. The lower parts of the doors of the type H type are protected by wooden planks with a thickness of 16 ... 19 mm, strips of decorative paper-layered plastic with a thickness of 1.3 ... 2.5 mm or superhard fibreboard with a thickness of 3.2 ... 4 mm or thin galvanized Steel. For glazing, glass is used with a thickness of 4 ... 5 mm.

a - shield, b - framework, in the cross-section of shield doors, G - section of the frame doors; 1 - Box bar, 2 - Sealing gasket, 3 - Facing of solid wood fiber plates, 4 - canvas doors, 5 - layout on glass, 6 - glass, 7 - protective bar.

The technological process of manufacturing panel door blocks consists of the following main operations: the manufacture of frames and aggregates (panel dials); Fill the frames; cutting facing material; gluing door shields; handling shields around the perimeter; laying and layouts; manufacture of door frame; hanging the door to the box; Finishing of the door block.

Frames used as a frame are made from processed bars with a cross section of 40 ... 60 x 32 ... 34 mm. Brucks of the frame in the corners are connected on a thorn or font fix with clips.

For the manufacture of a glazed door, two frames are made: external and inner, and the cross section of the inner frame should be the same as the cross section of the external frame.

Material lumber and production waste are used as a material for the manufacture of aggregate, which go to the manufacture of bars and rails for solid and rarefied middle, plywood waste and solid fiberboard thickness 3 ... 4 mm (for cellular filling and filling in a broken strip ). Reiki for the middle must be bold and without acute obol and rot.

Solid filling shields are manufactured as follows. After assembling the frame, it is applied to it (Faneur or solid fiberboard), pre-smeared with glue, and attached to the frame with small nails with a length of 20 ... 25 mm. After fixing the facing, the frame turn over and all the inner space is filled with a thickness with a thickness corresponding to the thickness of the frame. When placing the rails, it is necessary to ensure that they are tightly pressed by one to the other, and the joints of the ridges were delivered. After filling the frame, it is covered with a different sheet of facing material (pre-smeared by glue), which is attached with minor nails from four angles. When making a shield with a rarefilled filling of the frame, it is not filled with completely, but with intervals. In shields with cellular filling, the cells are made of no more than 40 x 40 mm, since with large cell sizes, the facing material is drawn.

When applying uncalibrated fillings (unequal thickness), as well as when using adhesives with a small dry residue, a wavy surface is obtained. Therefore, filling raies should have the same thickness, and in transverse bars of the frame (frame), the door cannons cut through the grooves or drill holes with a diameter of 10 mm for the exit of the steam generated during the pressing process during glue polymerization.

After filling the frame, the shields for doors glue into cold mechanical or hot hydraulic presses. In the first case, the gluing process of shields is 6 ... 12 hours, in the second - up to 15 minutes.

After gluing in the hot hydraulic press, the shields are kept on an imbalance within 12 ... 24 hours, then transmitted to processing around the perimeter and laying and laying and layouts.

Processing the door shields around the perimeter and laying and laying and layouts include a shield filing, a selection of a groove ground, grinding surfaces, installation on the glue of the plates around the perimeter and layouts on glass (in glazed doors).

Filming the door shield and sampling of the groove under the edge are produced on circular and milling machines or on a format-shaped milling machine, then put on the perimeter of the plating and after the corresponding shutter speed necessary to set the adhesive, grind planes on a three-cylinder grinding machine, then in glazed doors put on the layouts on glass.

Details of the box are manufactured as follows. Color the lumber in length and width, obtained billets for milling (fugurate) on fugoval machines, and then processed from four sides on a four-sided longitudinal milling machine with a quarter of the creation of a quarter, after which the spikes in vertical bars and eyelets in horizontal are killed on the nipsens. Before the rings of spikes in Brukes, which have defects, close the bitch. After that, in one of the vertical bars, depending on the type of hanging (right and left), choose nests under the loop and put weaving, and in another bar, the boxes choose the sockets for setting the lock under the lock. Collect the box in the assembly machine (Vaima) on the glue and the impudent.

Installation (inquiry) The door to the box is to fit the canvas to the box, hanging the canvas for the previously installed weeds, stripping the provisions and other irregularities. Before hanging the bipoon doors, the folders are selected along the door on the milling machine, and then the door canvases are folded together and placed in the box. The gap in the stem places needed for the paint layer must be no more than 2 mm. Overlap it by installing nicknames on glue and screws. Place the door in the box in the workplace, and with a large amount of production on the conveyors. When hanging, it is necessary to carefully customize the doors to a quarter. A hung door should not spring when opening and closing. Dissotion Door after hanging may be no more than 2 mm. It must freely rotate on the hinges.

Each canvas of the door on two or three hinges are hung, the rods of the upper and lower loops should be on the same vertical axis.

When installing locks with handles, the axis of the handle must coincide with the axis of the keyword. The socket under the lock is chosen by the template by the electric power machine for several receptions. Planks of locks and larvae cut flush with the surface of the door bars of the door.

Doors, lined with plywood or solid fibustaries, stained with oil paints (levila) or enamels.

Technological process of manufacturing door block

Introduction

Design and purpose

The grafical part

Routing

Properties and characteristics of materials used

Applicable equipment, mechanical and hand tools

Labor protection, safety equipment when working on machines

Used Books

1. Technological process of manufacturing door block

Introduction

Interior doors are part of the interior, so their choice must be approached very responsible. In this article we will talk about the diversity of interroom doors, their characteristics, production technology, price difference and many other things, which will help potential buyers to decide on the choice.

Wooden doors are quite often installed in homes and apartments. If you also stopped their choice on them, then you need to go to purchase very seriously. The wooden door is the very subject that will either serve for many years and delight with its beauty and quality, or quickly swallowed, cracks and becomes absolutely unsuitable for use on purpose. Therefore, even by buying expensive interior wooden doors created by designers, you need to pay attention not only to their appearance, but also that technology has respected in the process of their manufacture.

The production of interior wooden doors is a very complex technological process that must meet certain requirements. Only with accurate observance of the technology can be high-quality and reliable interior wooden doors, entrance wooden doors that will serve for a long time and will not lose their performance. Correctly treated wood is a durable, frost-resistant, soundproof material. From it not only make wooden doors, but also build houses. The wooden house is obtained so warm, reliable and beautiful that, despite the appearance of a huge number of more modern and less expensive building materials, wood has not lost its relevance, it continues to build out of it.

The production of interior wooden doors requires very accurate compliance with all technological stages. An array of wood is first dried. If the drying of the wood was carried out poorly, then the wooden doors from this array will be short-lived, they will quickly change the form and become unsuitable for use. But made of high-quality wood, on good equipment in compliance with all the subtleties of the technological process, wooden doors of pine whether the inexpensive or valuable breed of wood served as material for them, will be very durable and functional.

After drying wood, it is glueding. The composition of the adhesive depends on what type of door will be made - wooden outer doors, scribbled wooden doors or Finnish wooden doors. Different types of doors use different glue, different temperature conditions are also required during gluing.

And finally, wooden doors are grinding, soaked in various protective compositions, soaked and stained. After the wooden doors are polished, they are covered with a veil, they are spoiled again, covered with water-proof primer, and then painted and vague.

Often, interior wooden doors do not paint, but simply cover with a transparent varnish so that the structure of wood is visible. But the inlet wooden doors should be more resistant to different exposure from the outside, so they are usually covered with special paints for street work. A wooden door that will be constantly exposed to the street is usually not issued only with transparent varnish, and requires a stronger and stable coating. If it is sometimes covered with varnish, then only high strength and at least four times.

Wooden outdoor doors, scribed wooden doors, Finnish wooden doors and any other wood doors are lacquered only by varnish with polyurethane, because it can stretch together with the wood surface. If wooden doors are even slightly crackled during operation, the polyurethane varnish stretches together with microcracks and make them absolutely imperceptible to the eyes.

Of course, everyone wants to buy wooden doors that will serve for a long time and will not lose in the process of operation of their shape and appearance. Wooden doors are not so easy, so good doors are rarely obtained in handicraft. It is best to buy doors from well-known manufacturers who have their own major production and not first work on the market. Acquiring by unknown by anyone made doors, you can be very disappointed when they are swinging and stop opening.

The cost of wooden doors depends on their quality, on whether the technological process was so accurately observed during their production. If you decide to install wooden doors to your wooden house, make sure you get the doors made by a reliable manufacturer.

1.2 Design and purpose

Door block consists:

1. Two vertical strapping bars

2. Two transverse bars

3. From the lower and upper transverse bar

4. Internal four vertical strapping bars

5. Internal two transverse bars

6. From the six lower and top fililets

7. From one medium chip.

Specifications:

1. Make a door block from pine wood, should not

being on the details of drop-down bumps, rot, cracks.

2. Files made from pine wood

3. Door canvas collect on the glue of PVA.

4. Door canvas and door box should not have

skock is greater than 1 mm.

5. Connections must be tightly fitted, not

having gaps.

6. Door canvas should be straightforward

planes, skew no more than 2 mm.

7. Door canvas hang into the box on card

8. Working the door canvas should without

ottius

9. The width of width must be 1.5-2 mm, in height from the bottom of 3-5 mm

10. The finish is made with oil lacquer 3 layers.

1.3 graphic part

1.4 Product Specification

TOTAL: 0.0655

1.4 Technological Card