In a private house, the question is with an attic room. Why disappear useful area if you can make a living room from it. To equip the attic for housing is not very difficult, if only such a desire appeared. This room is placed under the attic and has an inclined ceiling, which significantly distinguishes it from other rooms.

The attic of the attic plasterboard is a more complex task than the repair of a regular room, precisely because of inclined ceilings. However, it is worth it, because the premises created will be not only beautiful, but also fully suitable for life.

Attention can be seen by various materials that are a huge set. Why is it worth stopping your choice on plasterboard?

1. Environmentally friendly material is always preferable to something dubious origin. Gypsum Candel, wrapped in thick cardboard, what can be harmful here?
2. The cheapness is also a weighty argument. Anyone can afford to buy a sufficient number of plasterboard sheets for converting an attic to a residential premises.
3. Despite the use of cardboard, this building material is fire-resistant. It does not burn, but can only smooth.
4. Plasterboard attic can be additionally insulated. This is possible due to the fact that drywall sheets are attached to the crate, forming a cavity in which heat-insulating materials can be reworked.
5. Under the trim, it is also possible to hide the power cables and other communications.
6. The inclined ceilings are very difficult to smooth ordinary materials, but the level can remain smooth with drywall.

There are certain nuances that can cause to refuse to use HCL when finishing the attic. The fragility of drywall is its aghilles fifth. One strike is enough to break this material and bring it into disrepair. Even highly screwed self-tapping screw can lead to unwanted deformation.

In new homes you can not use drywall. If the house can give a shrinkage, the GLC will not stand it and will deform.

Make overall plasterboard on the attic is not very convenient. And if the material is cut in advance, it may turn out a lot of waste. Increased humidity and dampness in the attic will lead to the fact that the gypsum will absorb her and swell, which is also extremely undesirable.

Selection of drywall

It is incorrect to think that the attmance of the attic plasterboard can be carried out using the classic wall and ceiling drywall. We will have to use moisture-resistant materials for the reasons described above.

G Clac has a greenish color and has excellent moisture-resistant characteristics so that it can be used under the roof. Hydrophobic impregnation will do its job, and it will be possible not to be afraid of high humidity. However, such sheets are very severe, which is fraught with high loads on the ceiling frame.

Gypsum wagon weight
View	Sheet size (mm)	Thickness (mm)	Sheet weight (kg)	Weight 1 sq.m. (kg)
Wall	1200x2000	12,5	22,32	9,3
	1200x2500.		27,9
	1200x3000		33,48
Moisture-resistant	1200x2000	12,5	24,24	10,1
	1200x2500.		30,3
	1200x3000		36,3
Moisture-resistant ceiling	1200x2000	9,5	24	10
	1200x2500.		30
Ceiling	1200x2000	9,5	17,5	7,3
	1200x2500.		21,9
Arched	1200x2500.	6,5	18	6
	1200x3000		21,6
Fire resistant	1200x2500.	12,5	30,6	10,2

Each independent will have to look for a golden middle, choosing plasterboard.

Preparatory work

It is impossible to just take and start conducting repair work without prior preparation. It is not only about buying fasteners, but also about bringing the working surface to the desired form. Preparation includes the following points:

• it is necessary to make sure that the roof does not flow and has no defects. It is best to check it in the fall when the rains are massively;
• in advance, you can determine the level of humidity in the attic with the help of a hygrometer. In the summer, such an inspection is useless due to the strong heat. Perhaps the attic is made so qualitatively that there is no dampness. This will give an idea of \u200b\u200bwhich plasterboard to use;
• wooden beams need to be treated with an antiseptic, if this has not yet been done;
• before weching the attic plasterboard, it is necessary to decide on places for sockets, lamps, ventilation, etc. After that, communications is made;
• we purchase consumables and tools: self-tapping screws, glue, glue, profiles or bars, screwdriver, scissors for metal, construction level, etc. A set of tools may vary depending on the specific case.

Plasterboard sheets need to be placed, where the repair will be repaired for 1-2 days. Sheets adapt to local temperature and humidity, and therefore will not be deformed after installation.

What makes a frame

The most reliable and correct method when placing the attic of the attic plasterboard is the use of a special framework. However, in some cases, the sheets can be attached directly to the inner cover of the roof. If the distance between the rafters does not exceed 60-70 cm, then you can safely mount plasterboard.

Fastening of drywall on a wooden mandatory frame

If the attic area is too big, the rafters are far from each other or it is planned to create an interior of a special form, then you will have to create a framework. It is from its construction that begins the finishing of the attic of the attic plasterboard.

The positive side of the repair work is the fact that the attic room is done exactly, and there is no need to engage in leveling surfaces.

If you do a wooden crate, then you need to find bars along the length of the room and attach them to the rafters. Then these sheets are attached to these sheets, plasterboard is mounted. If you use a metal profile, then everything will be slightly more complicated, but the cleaning of the Ceiling of the attic plasterboard will be high-quality.

More details on how to make marking for the ceiling, you can learn from the video.

Assembling a metal frame for attacking attic

Consider an example of work on one inclined ceiling. The rest, if available, are made similarly. Attic distinguishes precisely the inclined ceiling, and the walls and a smooth ceiling is the same as in the ordinary apartment.

For work, the UD 27x28mm guide profile and CD 60x27 mm are required. Mansards often come in size more than ordinary rooms, therefore the lengths of the guides may not be enough. The bracket for lengthening the profile will help to cope with such a problem.

Along the inclined ceiling on the adjacent walls, you need to attach two guides. The retreat from the ceiling is 5 cm will be enough. You can make a markup in advance to make it easier to fix the guides. Especially since no special measurements are needed, because everything is already smooth.

60x27 mm profiles are inserted into guides so as to go parallel to the floor. We extend them if the room is too large. The step between the profiles should be 60 cm. In places of compound, they are mounted with small self-draws. Be sure to go profiles along the edges of the inclined ceiling, where it connects to the wall and with a straight ceiling.

The recommended step between profiles is 60 cm

So that the ceiling of plasterboard on the attic does not fall off, we need to fasten the hanging profiles using suspensions. The suspensions are screwed to the ceiling with a step of 60 cm. Before mounting profiles to them, you need to make sure that there is no savory and the ceiling will come out smooth. To do this, stretch several threads across the profiles. The thread will show, in the right plane there is a profile. After that, you can fix them to the suspensions. The ears of the suspension bend after installation so as not to interfere. Just bend them very much, they can still be required to lay insulation.

Installing jumpers for additional hardness

The frame of the ceiling is not ready yet, because it lacks stiffness. For this purpose, jumpers are installed (step 60 cm), between just fixed profiles. For greater amenities, you can use special bracket brackets to which the sliced \u200b\u200bjumpers will be attached. If you do not want to endure additional waste, then you can go in a different way.

Mounting diagram of jumpers to the profile using crab brackets

Ceiling profiles are installed so that there will be nothing to insert anything in the side. There are two solutions to the problem:

• small pieces of guides are attached to the sides of the profile on the tapping screws so that the jumper can be inserted into them;
• the jumper is made a little longer, and the ribs are slightly cut slightly. The jumper cut on both sides easily falls on the ceiling profile, and then it is screwed to it.

Regardless of which method will be selected for the installation of jumpers, the installation will be high-quality, and the frame is rigid. In this case, the attic decoration of the plasterboard will be successful. However, you still need to insulate the roof and enjoy the frame.

Warming - an important step to create a cozy attic

There are two methods that the insulation of the type of mineral wool can be used in the attic, crumpled plasterboard.

1. The insulation stacked between the profiles that fix it and do not fall out. After that, a lifting is carried out using GLC.
2. The insulation is stacked between profiles that do not fix it. In this case, partial fixation is carried out at the expense of the suspensions that are strung up to keep the insulation. Also temporarily can help the tape, but the main fixation is performed by the plasterboard sheets themselves. In this case, the cleaning ceiling of the attic plasterboard is carried out in parallel with its insulation.

The insulation layer is fixed with suspensions and parallel to the attmance of the attic of the attic sheets of GLC

In order for the first option is possible in the guide profiles insert the same guides instead of the ceiling profile. And they are inserted back back to each other, so that there is where to start the insulation.

The insulation can also be fixed on liquid nails or with other adhesive compositions.

You need to know in advance the dimensions of the insulation to install profiles at the desired distance from each other.

Most often, mineral wool is used for insulation, which is produced in the form of tiles or in the form of a roll. The insulation tiles have a fixed size, and the roll is fixed only in width, and in length it is cut on the basis of current needs.

Mounting drywall to frame

Immediately, the finishing of the attic plasterboard is a simpler process than all the work, which was carried out before.

Sheets are recommended to be installed horizontally to facilitate their work with an inclined ceiling. They must go in a chess order so that the load is evenly distributed on the frame. 25 mm long sinks will be just right.

Plasterboard is screwed by self-pressing in 15-20 cm increments. It is fixed to the guides, to the ceiling profile and to jumpers. Although it is not an ordinary ceiling, but there is still a slope, which means that the fixation should be reliable. So that the tapping screws hold the sheet better, they need to be twisted at 1 mm below the level of the plasterboard. In this case, the shell sheet should not break through, and then such a fastening will be useless.

Someone prefers to use two layers of GLC for reliability, but here it makes no sense. Heat and sound insulation has already been laid, and the ceiling with reinforced durability in the attic is not needed. The second layer will only create an extra weight, and this is not necessary for anyone.

At this, the finishing of the attic plasterboard ends, and it remains only to carry out the finish finish on its choice. The main thing is to be well primed and highly sharpen. The rest of the attic of the attic of the plasterboard is similar. With docking in the corners there should be no problems, despite the presence of an inclined ceiling.

Clearing attic plasterboard is the perfect option and price and the speed of work. Today we will tell you about all the benefits of the material and how to finish the attic with the help of GLC sheets.

Before entering the finishing of the attic, it is necessary to explore all sorts of finishing materials. This will determine the most suitable material, focusing on both the cost and quality, and the simplicity of work.

Finishing materials:

• Lining. This material is considered one of the most inexpensive. The main advantages of plastic lining are a large selection of colors, which in turn allows you to implement a wide variety of design solutions. The casing with the help of the clap is carried out quite quickly, and it is not necessary to be a professional builder to perform these works. The basic minus consider the fragility of the lining, and therefore it is necessary to handle the material, so as not to damage it.
• . You can use for the trim and block house, which imitates natural wood. One difference - a block house with time does not crack as a natural tree, which means that you will serve much longer. The only negative is that the finishing of the attic of the attic will take you several centimeters of residential area.
• Plywood. If you have financial problems, then the cheapest option is to use plywood. True, this material is most often used only when leveling surfaces, but plywood may well play the role of self-trimming. Among the benefits of the material is the ease of installation, strength and efficiency. True, it is possible to apply Phaneur for finishing works only when the level of humidity in the room holds at the level of the norm, which is installed for residential rooms.
  
• But the most popular is the installation of plasterboard on the attic due to the small cost of the material, ease of work and the availability of further finishes.

If you are going to choose plasterboard, it will not be superfluous to learn about its merits and disadvantages. Start follows from advantages:

True, it is worth noting that the plasterboard has disadvantages. These include:

Mansard finish plasterboard do-it-yourself

The walls of the walls and the ceiling by plasterboard is not difficult, since one person will easily cope with it. However, we need not only to strip surfaces, but also to warm the room in advance. In general, about everything in order.

Finishing attic plasterboard with their own hands - a step-by-step scheme

Step 1: Creating a frame

As we have already said, you will not have any special problems with installing. The most important thing is to determine which type of frame you will use - wooden or metal. If the room is small, it is best to use the design of a tree. If the attic has large sizes, as well as if you want to make an original design, it is better to use a metal frame. By the way, it is quite simple to work with metal products, the only thing you need is self-tapping screws for metal.

To begin with, we carry out the markup where the framework will be located. Follow the metal guides along the perimeter of the room. After that, at a distance of about 50 cm from each other, dripped rack profiles. At the same time, it is necessary to completely repeat the contour of all walls and the ceiling. If you need to trim profile, use the grinder.

You can use both wood to create a basis for GKC. Before performing work, it is necessary to dry the tree and ensure that the basis is clean from rot, is not amazed by fungus, because such a design will not serve you long. Do not forget to treat wood with antiseptics and preparations capable of protecting the material from the defeat insects. Wooden rails are fastened with self-stakes just like metal profiles.

Step 2: Warming and vaporizoation

Before the finishing itself, the premises should be insulated, without forgetting about the protection of gypsurgiton from moisture. In this we will help the laying of the insulation and vapor barrier material.

This work consists of several stages:

1. Laying the first layer - vaporizolation. The material is sold in rolls, so first it is necessary to cut it into suitable pieces. After that, the products are attached to the surface using a building stapler. The material of the material is set to the mustache, which makes it possible to achieve long-term protection and tightness.
2. The next step is the laying of the insulation. The most popular material is considered to be Minvatu, which is sold or in mats, or in rolls. Carefully laid the material between the frame elements and fasten with wooden slats or liquid nails. The main thing is to lay the insulation so that there is a small distance for air circulation between the minvata and sheets of plasterboard.

Step 3: Preparation of Gypsum Carton

To work on the attic, it is desirable to choose moisture-resistant material, so that it will not swell over time and will not begin to crumble. Before starting installation work, mark on the inside of the sheets of the GC fastening places to beams. The main thing is that the markup is accurate.

December 12, 2016
Specialization: finishing of facades, interior decoration, construction of cottages, garages. Experience and gardener and gardener experience. There is also experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: the game is not a guitar and a lot more, to which there is not enough time :)

I prepared this article for homemade craftsmen who want not to simply tinkering the attic plasterboard, but to do it right. Next, I will tell you in detail about how the attic decoration is plasterboard. We will also consider common beginners errors, which will allow you to avoid them.

Finishing technology

Clearing attic plasterboard can be conditionally divided into six main stages:

Step 1: Preparation of Materials

First of all, it is necessary to prepare plasterboard for the finishing of the attic, and two types:

• wall - it will be needed to cover vertical and inclined planes. Its thickness should be at least 12.5 mm;
• ceiling - used, respectively, for plating the ceiling and inclined walls. Its thickness can be 8 or 9.5 mm.

It is advisable to use moisture-resistant plasterboard on the attic floor, since the humidity level here is often elevated.

Since GLC sheets will be mounted on the frame, it is also necessary to prepare the details for its assembly:

In addition, you need to prepare materials to slip drywall on the attic. To do this, you will need:

• primer deep penetration;
• reinforcing tape;
• start putty;
• the finish putty (it will be needed if the surface of the plasterboard will subsequently become painted).

Use polymer compounds as an finishing putty. Their price is somewhat higher than gypsum putty, but it is easy to work with them. In addition, these coatings are not afraid of moisture.

Stage 2: Mansard Preparation and Marking

The attic decoration has a number of their nuances that relate to and preparing the premises to finish. A common mistakes error is that they are not paying enough attention to this operation. This leads to a number of negative consequences, in particular, may even reduce the durability of the rafter design.

Mansard preparation is to fulfill the following actions:

1. the wooden elements of the roof must be treated with antiseptic impregnation, protecting wood from all sorts of biological influences. Instructions for working with antiseptic compositions are usually available on their packaging.

1. then the roof must be insulated, using mineral mats or other thermal insulation material. On the pages of our portal, I have repeatedly talked about the technology of mansard insulation, so I will not repeat;
2. so that the insulation does not gain moisture, be sure to close it with a vaporizolation membrane.

After preparing the room you need to mark up. The absence of detailed markup is also often a mistake of newbies. This leads to the fact that the finish will turn out uneven.

The process of applying the markup looks like this:

1. first of all, you need to decide on the location of the walls and the ceiling. If the attic is a large and high room can be made P-shaped, as shown in the Scheme on the right.

If you want to get more space, you can make the so-called "broken walls", as shown in the scheme on the left;

1. then you need to designate the location of the corners between the vertical walls and inclined, as well as between the inclined walls and the horizontal flow. In fact, at this stage, the dimensions of the walls and the ceiling are determined, on which the space of the room depends.

To do this, first mark the points on opposite frontones, then connect them with lines. To apply lines, you can use a paint cord;

1. then the points on each front should be connected by lines. It is for them that ceiling guides will be equalized.
   After applying them, make sure that the ceiling lines are not rejected from the horizontal and are on two fronts in one horizontal plane. For this, the threads can be pulled between them, and check their position level;
2. the lines of the junction of vertical and inclined walls should be transferred to the floor in one vertical plane. To do this, with the help of plugs, transfer several points to the floor, after which connect them with lines;
3. now indicate the location of the PP profiles on the inclined walls and the ceiling. To do this, mark on the point of the point with a step of 60 cm, retreating from the edge of the angles of 10 cm, as shown in the diagram below;

1. next, with the help of a painting cord, connect points on opposite front lines. If the length of the cord is not enough, tension between the points of the rope, and apply the markup on it manually;
2. on the obtained markup of the position of the PP profiles should be denoted by the locations of the suspension, taking into account the fact that the step between them should be 50 cm.

Stage 3: Building frame for walls and ceiling

Now you can collect on the markup framework. The instructions for performing this work looks like this:

1. prepare guides in size of lines on the frontows, then attach them using self-samples or dowel-nails. In the process of fastening horizontal guides, be sure to check their position level;

1. then attach the roofs of the roofing guides for vertical walls. Use profiles intended for, since the racks will not be attached by the suspensions;
2. now you need to fix the guides on the floor, aligning them on the markup;

1. next, you should cut the racks at the height of the walls and then install them in a step of 60 cm. Profiles need to be fixed in the guides of self-draws from above and below. In the process of their attachment, use the level;
2. now it is necessary to install the suspension for the ceiling profiles by using self-drawing;

In the photo - an example of installing a PP profile in the guide

1. after installing the suspensions, ceiling profiles should be prepared and insert them into guides. If necessary, profiles can be "increasing" by using a special extension;
2. now profiles must be fixed in the suspension. The most difficult at this stage is to align them. The fact is that the profiles be defeated under their own weight, especially if the span is long.

Newcomers often do not pay enough attention to equalizing profiles. As a result, the decoration of the attic floor with plasterboard turns out uneven, which is noticeable even with the naked eye.

Therefore, first fasten the extreme on the ceiling profiles. To align them, pull along the twine, which should be located on the level with them. They will serve lighthouses.

After installing extreme profiles, pull the twine between them, i.e. Position them across the rails, and exhibit intermediate profiles on them;

1. similarly, install PP profiles for inclined walls;

1. next, you need to attach to the bridge profiles with a step of 50 mm, which will make the frame tougher. The jumpers can be done independently, cutting, as shown in the diagram above. You can also use for these purposes with special crosses (crabs).

On this montage of the frame is completed.

Step 4: Frame Oven

So, with the most difficult stage of work, i.e. Assembling the frame on the broken walls and the ceiling, we figured out. Now consider how to shelter the attic plasterboard. The essence of this operation is reduced to the fastening of the sheets by self-draws.

Despite the fact that in general the process is quite simple, it contains a number of nuances:

• self-tapping screws must be installed at a distance of 250 millimeters from each other. The distance from the edge of the sheet to Samorza should be at least 10 millimeters;

• self-tapping caps need to be deepened by about a millimeter, otherwise they do not allow to slip surface. At the same time, do not twist them too deep, because In this case, the caps will break through the cardboard and the sheet will cease to be fixed;

• shelves should have to the center of the profile. The presence of "hanging" seams will lead to cracking;
• dispose sheets so that the seams are located with the dressing, i.e. No cross-shakes arose.

The fastening process itself is carried out without any difficulties. The only one, to mount the sheets on the ceiling is preferably with an assistant, as they are overall and heavy enough.

Stage 5: Finishing of Frontton

The finish of the frontones resembles the trimming of conventional walls by plasterboard. This operation is performed in such a sequence:

1. return 4 cm from the front and mark on the ceiling and beveled point walls from opposite sides. Then connect these points lines;
2. the resulting line is descended to the floor in the vertical plane using plumbing;

1. immediately secure the wall guides on the ceiling and on the floor, aligning them on the outlined lines;
2. between the guides on the ceiling and the floor, install the vertical NP profiles, securing them with self-strains on the walls;
3. now retreat from the walls of 10 cm, and apply the markup in the form of vertical lines in a step of 60 cm;

1. on the vertical lines, make the layout of the suspension. The vertical step should be 500 mm;
2. then set the suspension according to the markup;

1. since the length of the vertical racks will be different, measure the length of the lines on the wall. According to the data obtained, make the rack profiles;
2. now insert the prepared joint ventures into the guides and secure self-pressing in the suspension. In the process of attaching racks, check their position level.

Similarly, collect the framework on the second front. Then we cut the frontton plasterboard, given the above rules for the installation of HCL.

Stage 6: Gypsum Carton Finish

It can be said that our plasterboard attic is ready. The only one, now you need to rein the joints and prepare the surface to the finishing finish. This is done as follows:

1. the work should be started with the joints of the seams - cut the chamfer from all the unsubstantiated edges with a sharp mounting knife. The chamfer width should be about 5 mm. If the chamfer will be uneven - there is nothing terrible in it;

1. now the surface of the drywall must be treated with primer deep penetration. Apply the liquid on the walls and the ceiling with a painted.

Difficult areas and seams treat with a painting brush. After drying the surface, the procedure repeat;

1. after drying the soil you need to reinstall the seams. To do this, the selected junction should be filled with starting putty, inflicting the composition across the seam by a narrow spatula. After filling the junction with putty, align the surface - swipe along the seam.

Immediately impose a reinforcing tape on putty, and cover it by another layer of putty. Align the surface with a spatula.

In this way, it is necessary to rein all the available joints;

1. while the putty dries out, you need to sharpen the hats of the screws. To do this, type the putty on the narrow spatula and simply swipe the tool over the Hat;
2. after drying, the putty surface must be slightly cleaned with a spatula or even a sandpaper so that irregularities do not interfere with further spatlement;
3. the processed surfaces must be cleaned from dust and covered with ground with a brush;

1. now you can proceed to the spatlement of the walls and the ceiling. For this work, use a wide spatula. Try to apply putty neatly and evenly so that the surface is turned out to be smooth.
   At this stage, glue perforated corners to external angles to align them and protect against chips;
2. after drying the putty, it needs to be pulled out by a sandpaper or a grid with a P100-120 abrasive. For convenience, use a special fuganok on which a grid or a skin is stretched;

Grinding is carried out by circular movements. In this way, try to get rid of all serious irregularities that are on the surface;

1. upon completion of the grinding, the surface must be cleaned of dust and process to the scheme described above;
2. if you plan to paint the plasterboard attic ceiling, it must be covered with a thin layer of finishing putty. With it, it is necessary to get rid of small irregularities and traces of grinding;
3. primary surface must be carefully polished with a shallow abrasive eye. To monitor the quality of grinding, bring a bright lamp to the surface. In case of detection of flaws, the grinding must be continued, then the surface must be cleaned once again from dust and process to.

To divide the attic space into several rooms, you can install plasterboard partitions. They are installed on the same principle as the vertical walls. The only, partition space should be filled with mineral wool to ensure noise insulation.

That's all the information on how to shelter the attic putty.

Output

Despite the fact that the finishing of the attic plasterboard has its own specifics, the work is quite simple. Therefore, you can cope with it without the help of specialists.

I advise you to see more video in this article to secure the material obtained. With all questions regarding the finishing of the attic plasterboard, if they arise, you can contact me in the comments.

The decoration of the attic floor of the plasterboard will increase the area of \u200b\u200bresidential premises. And it is pretty good.
Only if you hire people to fulfill this work, then it will turn into a rather small money. Our article will help you make this work completely with your own hands.
By photo you can choose the desired design and video to see the order of work. A detailed instruction will be given according to the rules for performing this work.

Mansard plaster trim is done after the insulation of the room. The plasterboard itself is not insulation.
Properly performed work will allow you in the room at any time of the year.

Heater:

• Styrofoam.
  This material is available to everyone and is a good insulation. It can be installed completely with your own hands and this is a big plus.
  In such a design, you can easily choose a thickness of the coating that fluctuates 20-100 mm. After performing installation work, the joints are processed by foam, which makes the room quite sealed, but this material has one significant disadvantage, rodents can start it. And it can push off the application;
• Mineral wool.
  There are no rodents in it. But when installing, dust appears, which is harmful to human health. Here, too, you can choose the thickness of the insulation layer, which fluctuates 20-200 mm.
  The price of the material is not high and it can afford everyone.

If you did the roof correctly, then on the inner layer of the plane you have waterproofing, which lies with a porous part out. So requires installation technology.
If this work was not performed, then precisely from it and begin the insulation of the surface:

• We cut waterproofing to the desired size and secure it between the rafters;

ATTENTION: When attaching, pull the coating and connect using a stapler. The edges must be placed.

• Now we carry out insulation. If a foam applies, TAGA is not at the distance between the rafyles, it cannot be the same.
  Customize the width of the fastening of the material for a couple of mm more relative to the way. And then make fastening with the help of self-tapping screws.
  Only on the self-sufficiency should wear a puck, it is performed so that the metal does not pass through the material and kept rigid enough;
• When installing mineral wool, the width of the material is wider than five cm. It is soft, and the fit should be dense. Edges can even be treated with scotch;

ATTENTION: When insulating mineral wool, pay attention not to the thickness of the layer. The fact is that when cladding, the plasterboard should not press cotton wool.
She must be free to post.

• After conducting insulation, we make the inspection of the planes. We look at the manifestations of the barley if they are then eliminating this flaw.
  When fastening the foam we make processing with the help of a mounting foam. If there are deficiencies in the mineral wool, then it is eliminating with the help of crosses of the material;
• After complete processing of the plane with insulation, we apply a layer of vaporizolation. We look, the grungy layer should be directed outward.
  Fastening is done using a stapler to rafters.

So the attic decoration is carried out when the partition is not required. After that, plasterboard facing is performed, the instruction is shown below.

Mansard Finishing With Frame

The previous option is fully suitable if you have a ready-made doom and fastening is performed on rafters. But not always the form of the room suits man.
Yes, and not always have something to fix. Then the installation is done differently.
In this case, it is best to apply a metal profile. For this we need CD and UD profile.

Required tool

To start working, we need to prepare a tool:

• The right amount of drywall;
• Direct metal profiles;
• Corner profiles made of metal;
• Suspensions;
• Crabs;
• Drill;
• Putty knife;
• Roulette.

ATTENTION: The frame can be done from wood. For this, the timber is applied.
His humidity should be at least 12 percent. And before installing it, it should be treated with antiseptics that are in a free sale.
This will prolong the service life and will not allow the material to rot.

There is a metal profile with a long 2.5 - 6 meters, so pick it up correctly. The crate is always easier to do from one-piece elements than to carry out their docking.

Installation of the septum

This work should be performed quite accurately. We will be attached to the insulation and we must have the right form.
That is, lines should pass in parallel so that no inaccuracies are not turned out and which then will be required. The partition should be placed strictly perpendicular to the axis of the earth.
So:

• It should be noted that vertical partitions should be installed in a profile increment of no more than 50 cm;
• At the corners of the room we make marks the location of the profile. This wall will separate the residential premises from nonresidential.
  For the correct installation, we use a plumb. Reiki must be placed perpendicular to the floor;

ATTENTION: After performing markup and determining the point of placening profile, the diagonals should be checked. To do this, use a kapron thread.
Do not neglect this. With incorrect placement, we completely break the entire configuration of the area and the room will not have a proper geometric shape.

• Now connect the lines and beat them with the painful cord. After that, we cut a guide profile with the help of a grinder or scissors for the metal in the desired size and make it fastening it.
  This is done with the help of self-tapping screws, but it is with a wooden field. If we are covered with concrete, then we make holes using a perforator and carry out a connection to a dowel.

ATTENTION: We should have a sufficiently rigid design. Therefore, you should not apply a dowel from the sets.
Could be purchased with pacifiers of plastic individually and to them self-tapping screws with a diameter of a couple of mm. More from the opening in the plastic. This will provide us with a reliable and high-quality connection.

• We perform the same attachment in the upper part of the attic;
• Now between them make fastening of longitudinal profiles. To do this, cut them into the desired size and make the connection;

Installation of wiring

For a comfortable stay in the room, we need to make lighting:

• We find the place of connection to the network. We need to install the junction box here.
  If we use energy-saving lamps, we may need and install a downcast transformer. We must have free access to these places. Making a connection;

ATTENTION: For the behavior of the cable connection, use special crabs that make a compound qualitative and reliable. Do not apply the connection with a twist.
This is not enough that is not reliable, but also dangerous.

• We celebrate the installation points of the lamps and make the supply and fixing of the cable into this place. We leave the wire release that will allow you to correctly connect and cut the wire;
• We connect the lamps and check the correctness of the lighting. Make it necessary.
  While you can fix everything and without problems. After installing the facing, it will be quite difficult to do this;
• Now we carry out the insulation of surfaces, as described earlier.

Mounting plasterboard

We have a base for installation, now we will make a cladding. This should be performed holding some rules and recommendations.

So:

• The connection of sheets should not be performed closely or to each other or walls. Make a gap between them about 5 mm.
  By this, you will protect the design from the expansion of the material;
• The compounds of sheets are made with a distance of 15 cm. At the same time, the self-tapping screw should be strictly perpendicular to the surface.
  If this did not happen, then you should not make the mount in the same place, step up a pair of see and compound. At the same time, the self-pressing hat must be immersed in the surface of the sheet by a couple of mm;
• During the work, you will need to cut the material. For this, a sharp knife is applied.
  We put the sheet on a flat surface, it is best to apply the table. We carry out the cut line with a pencil and after that we make an incision applying a sharp knife.
  We shift the sheet from the edge of the table to the 5th mm and put on the line a smooth bar and press it. Sharply press on the other side of the sheet.
  There is a dome according to the line. After that, it is necessary to clean the surface of the cut with the plane;
• In places withdrawal lamps we do as follows. We apply the sheet and mark the location of the wire.
  They removed the sheet and laid on a flat surface and made a hole with a crown and drill. Remember, the crowns have a different diameter, so pick up the one that is necessary;

ATTENTION: When performing the hole do not press much, otherwise the material will eat. Make smooth and uniform pressure.

Finish finish

Now we should make a finish finish that will hide and a hat from the self-tapping screws and make the surface perfectly smooth.

ATTENTION: When performing the last stage, the joints should be used in the joints, which will improve the quality of the seam. Also on the corners, use the angular sickle, it will significantly increase the edge of the angle.

The decoration of the attic floor is complete with plasterboard completely. Now it remains to finish with wallpaper or coat with other finishing materials.
There are many articles on this topic on our website by reading which you can do work with your own hands.

In the presence of a fairly spacious attic room in the house, no owner refuses to expand its living space by setting up a cozy attachment at the roof. You can choose a tree as a casing material, but it is expensive and difficult to work with it. In addition, these walls with the ceiling will require constant attention and care. The following option is plastic, it is more unpretentious. However, it will be impossible to change the design of the room subsequently, and the material itself is quite cold. An ideal way out is to finish the attic plasterboard:

1. This is relatively inexpensive.
2. You can simultaneously carry out insulating and insulating work.
3. If you have already talked with this material, without difficulty will bypass without attracting a building brigade.
4. If the finish get bored, it will be possible to change it to another quite painless.

The only note is to prefer the usual plasterboard on the attic - moisture resistant. Since in such premises, humidity usually is increased.

Preparatory stage of the room

Before sheeing the attic plasterboard, you need to make sure that it is ready for refining. We remember that over this room is a roof, and it depends on its state how cozy you will be in the fresher room, and how long it will last.

1. The condition of the roof is examined. The most reliable results of this action in the rainy period - leaks will be shifted in all its glory. Damaged parts of the roof are repaired with all care.
2. The rafter and beams are equally important. They are checked for the fortress, dryness and lack of posting. All wooden parts are impregnated with antiseptics.

If the house has recently erected, the equipment of the attic room and its plasterboard covering with their own hands is postponed until the interference of all structural elements is complete.

Stropile mounting

In some cases, it is possible to do without frameless facing, although this method is considered not the most reliable. The lamp can be considered optional for a small attic, where the distance between rafters is a maximum of 75 centimeters.

1. Plasterboard is purchased with a thickness of 12.5 mm. Thin thin sheets, rigidly attached on rafters, will begin to bent and removed.
2. Corrected plasterboard on the walls sits on a special glue. In those places where the surface is quite smooth, it is applied by a layer. There, where the failures are observed, cakes are superimposed, designed to level the high-altitude differences.
3. Lastly, the attic ceiling is carried out. Here the cutting should be as accurate as possible. Separate sheets are recorded not only by glue, but also long stainless self-drawing in the rafter.

Internal angles, especially at an angle, are reinforced not just a sickle, but a perforated corner. And note: the perfectly smooth surface you most likely will not come out, because the rafters can have a significant difference in height.

Frame method: Use a metal profile

This method is not only more reliable, but also allows you to warm the room. Of course, if you assume purely summer use, this step is not obligatory, although it helps to exploit the attic without intermediate repairs.

1. Careful measurements are made. The required material is calculated and purchased: profiles, plasterboard, hardware.
2. Installation of the crate begins from the walls. The markup of the future crate is transferred to the floor and the ceiling (we definitely exit the verticality of the rack).
3. The railway frameworks are mounted around the perimeter. Each of the profile segments should be fixed at least at 3 points. Maximum distance between fasteners - meter.
4. In the guides, at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other, the racks are attached to the metal screws. You need to check their verticality.
5. Tracks are fixed. Their frequency must correspond to the length of plasterboard sheets after cutting.
6. If you are making electrical intercommunications, they are bred at this stage, when the lamp has already been created, and the attic of the attic of the attic plasterboard is still ahead.
7. In the frame cells, the insulation is stacked. It is optimally used to use mineral wool: it is indifferent to humidity and beyond the teeth of rodents.

Over the entire design is tightened with a hydro-eyed membrane. If the humidity in your attic is small, you can do without this step.

Mansard cladding GLC

Basic principles, how to shelter the attic room with plasterboard, are similar to similar actions on the finishing of other premises.

1. Circled sheets are attached to profiles with a step between fastener at 20-25 cm.
2. Horizontal seams should be shifted relative to each other at least one third sheet width. If it turns out that the whole plate forms a straight line with the adjacent joint - replace it with a clipped.
3. First, the space of solid GLC is laid out. Trimming are stroke when the main area is trimmed.
4. On the walls of the attic, where there are openness - door or window - in the places of laying of plasterboard sheets, they are fixed with the same fastener frequency throughout the perimeter of the opening. And make sure that the joints of the GLCs did not occur on the corners of the openings: in these places the tension voltage is large, especially if the sash is open (not a deaf window), and the finish will be covered with cracks over time.

Wall processing and ceiling before finishing finish is also standard: sealing joints and hats of methiza, strengthening angles, primer and spatlement. But how to separate the attic, already covered with plasterboard - the question of your preferences and tastes. Suppose any type of finish. The restrictions imposes only the lack of heating if you were not performed on the attic.
As you can see, shelter the attic room with plasterboard only a little harder than the same room in a residential building. Difficulties usually arise in the area of \u200b\u200boblique planes of the attic, but people who already prevail such structures easily adapt to new installation conditions.