How to build a staircase to the second floor: calculation and installation. Making a ladder from a tree to the second floor with your own hands make a wooden staircase for 2nd floor

The construction of the stairs to the second floor is a rather complicated procedure, but if there is experience and good step-by-step leadership, it is quite possible to cope with yourself. The main difficulty in this case is that the size of the span and the angle of inclination of the structure must be calculated with the utmost accuracy, since it is precisely from this that the durability of the design and the convenience of its operation depends. A reliable and aesthetically attractive staircase is an excellent chance to test yourself and acquire valuable experience for subsequent work in your private house.

Initially, it is worth it to decide which role should play your staircase in the overall interior. Such a design can serve as a decorative element or be invisible; Moreover, the staircase can become a central element of all design, according to which the entire room will be taken. But before choosing a particular option and the beginning of directly manufacturing, it is necessary to find out how this kind of staircase is generally arranged, and determine the required dimensions.

Design - from which there are inter-storey stairs

And they consist of a large number of structural elements. Without some, it is definitely not to do, the remaining, on the contrary, may be absent in some variations of the design described.

Let's start with the fact that the design must be present in the design, as well as supports, which support them are the main elements of any inter-storey design of this type. The stage itself is an element consisting of two perpendicular to each other parts. Talking by a professional language, from the approach and riser. The last, by the way, serves as a kind of support under the approach, but it is often possible to do without it.

As for the supports, they can be of two types:

  • kosur (this is a special beam that supports the steps below);
  • aTTA (similar beam for steps, that's just it supports them on the ends).

The following constructive element is a railing. They are extremely important, even if they are far from all types of design. And if the elderly relatives or children live in your home, without a railing it certainly.

Finally, balasins are special vertical supports under the railing, often necessary not only for practicality, but also for decorativeness. For balasine, various materials can be used, and the form of elements is also different.

Note! Due to the wide variety of stairs, they may occur such details that are required exclusively for this design. Read them.

  • Bolties. Under them implies special bolts intended to support steps. They can be attached to them and to the walls themselves. Not often used, but only for some options for stairs.
  • Racks. Such elements are used in the construction of screw stairs. To one such rack with an appropriate step, steps having a special shape and forming a helix, which rises to the second floor from the first one.

What is the option of stairs to choose the second floor for home?

So, first we determine which staircase we need, and make appropriate calculations. As a rule, in private houses there are metallic, concrete and wooden stairs.

In their design, they can all be:

  1. screw;
  2. swivels;
  3. straight.

There is still, by the way, combined options that have different degrees of complexity, but we will not stop on them.

For concrete stairs, a very strong foundation is required, and the construction itself takes a lot of time, but the finished structures are obtained very durable and durable. Installing a metal staircase nothing difficult is, but provided that you can work with the welding machine. But the design of the tree will be able to build everyone if familiar with the algorithm of such a process.

The simplest in construction is considered to be a direct march design - not a particularly difficult staircase for the second floor with their own hands. It is quite compact, it includes not too much details, and complex calculations are not required in this case. If free space is limited, the optimal option is a spiral staircase, which even looks sophisticated, but not always in use is convenient. For example, it will be difficult for you to raise something heavy or overall. More complex in the installation of construction, which consist of several spans, however, they are the most suitable option for buildings with a large distance between the floors.

Staircase for the second floor with your own trees soystroye

This design consists of the following items:

  • boosters;
  • risers;
  • sticky;
  • railing.

With what is each of these elements, we have already figured out, so we immediately go to the main one.

So, the height of one-time staircase on the second floor should be the same as the distance between the floors + overlap. To simplify the calculation, at first it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the steps themselves. If children or elderly relatives live with you, it is desirable that the steps are 15 centimeters in height, in the remaining cases this height can be 20 centimeters. Exceed the last value is undesirable, since the rise will turn out to be sharper, and it will not be so convenient to rise.

As for the width of the steps, it should vary from 20 to 30 centimeters - a specific value depends on how much free space is highlighted under the staircase. After all, the steps are wider, the more space will be required. Select the required dimensions, proceed to count the length of the base and the number of steps. Take the total height of the entire design and divide into the height of one risk, and the number that will receive, round up to the whole and multiply to the value of the sharpening depth. For example, the entire staircase for the second floor will have a height of 300 centimeters, and the height of each riser will be 20 centimeters.

Here will need 15 steps, because:

300:20=15

And if the width of each step will be 25 centimeters, the base should be 37.5 centimeters in length (15x25 \u003d 37.5).

Step-by-step instructions for the manufacture of stairs on the second floor

After completing with the calculations, start making all the necessary design elements. Kosomers need to be made of solid and dense wood, because they will have both the weight of people and the weight of the entire staircase. Cut the pattern from thick cardboard by making cutouts that match the dimensions of the steps, the slope should be the same as the angle of inclination of the ladder itself. Cut the groove on the ends of the grooves, through which they will be attached to overlapping and the basis, and then mark the markup in accordance with the template made in advance.

To cope with subsequent work, you must prepare:

  1. electric jigsaw;
  2. a hammer;
  3. grinding machine;
  4. drill;
  5. level;
  6. and finally, anchor bolts.

Take the jigsaw and make the protrusions on the platforms in accordance with the markup, after which you carefully seize both sides. Next, cut the mounting holes in the beams in the beams or, as an option, install metal supports. In a place where the first step will be located on the first floor, install the supporting timber, fixing it using anchor bolts. Then install the boosters, without fail by checking the slope through the level. Fix the cosomes on top / bottom with the same anchor bolts.

Now you can make the steps themselves. Take dry boards whose thickness is at least 3.6 centimeters; Width at this time should be a similar width of future steps or even a few more.

Note! In the manufacture of risers, you can take a 2 centimeter thick boards.

As for the length of the blanks, it should be the same as the width of the entire design (that is, within 80-120 centimeters).

After completing the trimming, carefully polish each workpiece in order to remove irregularities and sharp cuts. The installation process itself does not represent anything difficult: wake the bottom cuts on the cosoms with a joinery glue, attach the risers and align everything along the edges. Next, fasten them using the screws, and on top to put the steps themselves. If you do not use glue, the wooden parts will create symptins when loading.

Similarly, put all the steps, then start the mounting of the rail. Balaasins for the railings do from square bars or, as an option, curly wooden blanks. You can mount on each step or through one (it all depends on what is the characteristics of the span). Fold with self-tapping, do not forget to close the hats with decorative plugs. If there is a staircase to the second floor with their own hands, there will be approximately in the middle of the room, you can equip the railing at once from each side.

At the end, the finished staircase is pretty eyes and treat the antiseptic. Then the wood paint or open lacquer. It is important that the total surface is not too smooth - the roughness of the steps will significantly increase the safety of residents of the house. Apply the finishing coating with two three layers, and before each new layer, the previous one must dry out entirely.

Straight concrete staircase

If your home is spacious enough, and the inter-storey overlap of it is made of concrete, then you can completely build a concrete staircase. As a rule, people often construct one of two design options:

  1. monolithic;
  2. combined type (here only Kosor is made of concrete).

Note that option number 2 looks much more attractive. Nevertheless, the ladder from concrete in any case requires a formwork, as well as a sufficiently strong base that can withstand this weight.

To begin with, prepare everything you need, in particular:

  • moisture-resistant Fanoire (can be replaced by a edged board, a lump of Pat film);
  • concrete;
  • durable bars of 10x10 centimeters in section;
  • self-tapping screw;
  • armature or special knitting wire.

Note! The thickness of the formwork board should be 3 centimeters, and plywood is at least 1.8 centimeters. All the necessary sizes count in the same way as for the design from the previous paragraph of the article, however, the strength characteristics of the base requires the maximum.

Works start with formwork facilities: Take the Fane or Board, run them according to the drawing in advance, avoiding the appearance of cracks and observing the required slope.

When the formwork is ready, install it between the floors and fix the same bars. Then decompose inside the formwork of reinforcement rods, tie them with steel wire. Where railing will be installed, secure wooden tubes, and only after that fill the entire box with a cooked concrete solution. It is important that the formwork is filled immediately, in one approach, otherwise the monolith of the future design will break.

After the concrete clutches, dismantle the box, and formed the steps from time to time moisturize with water, otherwise their surface can crack. Start finish just when the concrete gains strength and dried finally. During the construction of the stairs of the combined type, the boosters are flooded in a similar way, and the formwork must be narrower (which is characteristic, the installation of steps should be taken into account here).

The finished monolithic design can be separated by stone, wood, ornamental tiles and other finishing materials. Before proceeding directly to the facing, consider the weight - for example, the same tile will have a much larger load on the foundation, rather than wood. Steps to concrete boosters can be attached to any, but especially attractive they will look with a tree.

Video - Independent manufacture of stairs

How to build a metal staircase

It is not so difficult to collect such a design, but this will require the skills of working with the welding machine and metal elements in general.

So, first prepare such materials and equipment:

  1. bulgarian with a grinding nozzle;
  2. schwerler number 10;
  3. file;
  4. iron corners;
  5. metal in sheets;
  6. actually, welding.

First, take a channel, cut it into segments and collect the frame of such sizes from them, which there will be a staircase to the second floor with your own hands. Next, take the corners and weld them to the ends of the resulting frame with the same step, equal to the height of the steps. It is important that all corners are accurately perpendicular to each other. To facilitate the installation of the stage design, you can boost after the framework is mounted and fixed.

To the upper overlap qualitatively attach the top elements of the frame using the anchor bolts for this purpose. The lower ends attach to the bottom floor. After that, weld the steps made of sheet metal, and set the railing. Having finished with the assembly, carefully polish the places of compounds with a special nozzle or, as an option, conventional files. In the end, treat the entire design of anti-corrosion primer.

How to make a screw staircase

The main advantages of the screw staircase are excellent decorative properties, as well as the fact that a lot of space does not occupy such a design. For example, a 2.5 meters high staircase will consist of 16-17 steps, while the base will have about 2 meters in diameter. One of the most popular methods for the construction of screw stairs to the second floor is "reducing" triangular / trapezoid steps to the central axis. In this case, the width of the wide part will be from 30 to 35 centimeters, and a narrow - only 15 centimeters.

For independent manufacture of the stairs to the second floor you will need:

  • two steel pipes for 5 and 5.5 centimeters;
  • primer mixture;
  • wooden rails with which the template will be made;
  • file;
  • corners;
  • apparatus for welding.

The pipe with a smaller diameter will serve us as the main rack, therefore, its length should be the same as an inter-storey distance. It is also recommended to conclude the staircase next to the base so that it turns out more stable (do not forget to put the design vertical in advance). A large pipe must be cut into cylinders, the length of which is approximately 15 centimeters. Perform all sections strictly at an angle of 90 degrees, otherwise you will not be able to align all the steps horizontally.

Note! Cylinders should be put on the main pipe as tight as possible, and there should be no hollows. If the dock turns out to be loose, you have to use sealing rings.

To make steps, you will need a pattern made of wooden plates. The latter glue in such a way that the corners placed in the frame form the steps of the desired size.

We weld each step to the appropriate cylinder, after which it is carefully stuck. When all the necessary items are ready, start collecting the entire design. Wear steps on the axis, set the corners and securely weld.

The last step is to install the railing and the final finish of the entire design. For making rail, you can use:

  • reinforcement;
  • thin profile;
  • chrome pipes of small diameter.

Worn railing will look very impressive. At the same time, do not forget that all metal surfaces need to be thoroughly stabbed, treat the primer mixture and paint.

A similar way is going to also a screw staircase to the second floor for which wooden steps are used. Wood blanks must be performed in the form of trapez, after which a hole with a diameter of 5 centimeters is done in a narrow part. Next, using special seals, the steps must be riveted on the axis and fix there. At the end, the railing is attached, wood is ground, painted and decorated with decor.

Features of the assembly with their own hands of stairs to the second floor at the parodes

As a result, one more curious option should be considered how the staircase is constructed to the second floor with their own hands. This in this case will go about the design at the Bolts, which received its name from it. Bolzen, which is translated as a "bolt". In other words, we are talking about the design that is fixed on special bolts. Although in reality it is not even bolts, but fasteners made in the form of pins, at the ends of which there is a thread. Thanks to the battles, the railing and the steps are connected to each other, as well as attach to the wall. As a result - we get an air and light ladder capable of decorating any private house. Moreover, the risers in this case are generally absent.

Among other things, the stairs of this type are both quite compact and stretched on a particular area of \u200b\u200bthe wall. Despite the fact that these designs seem easy, in reality they are durable and durable, can quietly withstand several hundred kilograms, because of what, in fact, they have gained increasingly popular.

Note! It is quite obvious that it is impossible to establish such a staircase in the center of the room, because the mount, as we have already found out, is carried out to the wall. But the most important thing is to build only high-quality and durable materials.

It is extremely difficult to make the calculation of such a staircase with your own hands, but it can be purchased in an already finished form or to order specialists in an individual project. For more details on the installation of this design, see the above video.

On this all, good luck and warm winters!

Video - How to install a wooden staircase at the parodes


The tree is in constant popularity among private house owners. This supportive material will be combined for any construction work. Especially brightly, the potential of the wood is revealed with the device of stairs to the second floor. We will tell about how to competently draw up a project, calculate the size and pick up the tools.

There are the following types of inter-storey stairs:

    Single-one.

    Single-one with a platform.

    Two-day.

    Screw.

    Spiral.

    Circular.

    Combined.

The final choice depends on the dimensions and geometry of the room. Most plain option - single-hour, and most complicated - Combined.

Detailed drawing of the stairs in the context is depicted figure below. Before making design elements, it should be determined to be sized.

As the staircase to the second floor will be constructed, then the height is known in advance - it distance between floors.

Need to measure the distance from the ceiling to the floor Taking into account the thickness of the overlap. In our case, it 2700 mm:

The step is distinguished by a horizontal plane - come out and vertical (lifting height) - concerns. There are stairs with a concern and without it.

Practice is proved that the optimal height of the stage is calculated based on the indicators 150-200 mm. For example, the size of the stairs of the stairs 200 mm. Then 2700 mm divided by 200 mm, and it turns out 13 steps.

IN SNIP The dimensions are precisely defined:

    For residential and public premises: Height of the risers - 148 mm, width sticking - 300 mm.

    For basement and attic rooms: Height of the risers - 171 mm, width sticking - 260 mm.

Often steps rely on cuts in assets, insert or crash In the inside of their surface.

Next need disrogate design Stairs on the floor of the room in order to determine how it will be located in the room. The width of the sticking stairs lies within 250-300 mm. We have it 250 mm, and after multiplying the magnitude of 13 steps, it turns out the size of the projection equal to 3250 mm.

Last to do - calculate length Stairs. It is determined according to Pythagora theorem. This value corresponds to the square root, taken from the sum of the squares of the cathets of the rectangular triangle.

In our case, hypotenuse is equal 3260 mm. That's what it is skewing length.

Next stage - Production of parts and elements of the stairs. It is necessary to take a wooden timing cross section 140 × 60. mm, from which they will be manufactured kosoury.

Kosource - The carrying design of the staircase march, in the form of beams (bar) with a comb at the top, to which the steps are installed.

They need two pieces, and they are made of boards thick 30-40 mm - 13 steps, and from boards thick 25-30 mm is obtained 13 concerns. Stage length should be chosen based on the size of the room.

It should also be taken into account that with the width of the ladder march less 1 The meter will arise certain inconvenience In the construction and operation of the ladder.

Buying a tree for the construction of the stairs, pay attention to the quality of the material.. It must be homogeneous color, without grayish sites, deformations and cracks.

Humidity Woods you will not be able to determine without special devices, but too much "water" is felt by weight - such a board will be much harder than you expected.

Planed tree (Namely such wood should be bought) should be smooth, without roughness, without bitch and other defects. Especially one should avoid bitch on bars for staircases.

On a single raising lumber meter there should be no more than one bitch.

If you failed to find the boards of the required width, you can make steps from several narrow boards, connecting them furniture brackets on glue:

In order to connect the boards by brazen, in sidelights The depresses are drilled equal to half the length of the brazen, and the wooden nail is driven by a hammer until it stops. Further, his ends are lubricated with paint, and the boards shifted to each other side faces.

In those places where the trail remains, holes are drilled to the depth a little morethan protruding brazen.

And boards, and wooden nails in those places where they will be docked, it is necessary to lubricate glue and collect. So that there are no traces on the surface from the hammer blows, you need to put a wooden bar. Begroes need to be attached through every 150-200 mm.

Such a step collected from several boards, completely replace Made of whole board. Disadvantage This step is miniature clearance, After all, the sawn timber will not be combined absolutely accurately, so the surface will need to be finalized by the Rubank, to finally align it.

Before assembling the stairs in a single design you need taste all details, and if necessary, adjust them for sizes. After that, it is necessary to clean the elements with a grinding skirt. Special attention is paid to end surfaces.

Connect all details We need stainless screws with pre-labeling surfaces with glue Plow, joinery glue or Bustilat.

Then all the elements of the stairs morilka are coveredAnd after it is applied several layers of transparent waterproof varnish. If there are no vehicles, it is allowed to process wooden surfaces heated oliff 2-3 times. The composition is better to apply before the assembly Details so that the screws of the screws are not dirty.

To protect placeswhich will be applied glue, from varnish and olifa, their push the special painting scotch.

If you want your staircase looks like elegant and elegant, You can use a circuit with mortise steps. The markup of all elements in this case is performed in the same way as before.

To cut the grooves in the cosos For rigid fixation of steps together with the knife, the chisel is used:

Build this design is better to perform not screwed, and fix the steps with a bolt with a rounded head, which is equipped with a slot to a slotted wide screwdriver.

The connection is done so:

    After sampling the grooves under the step in the Koser, you need drill holes diameter 10 mm in the central part of the groove.

    Step inserted into the grooveAnd through the drilled hole is made a label. Then the hole is drilled in this place so that you can screw the threaded insert.

    Enclosed best use under thread bolts M8. Lena 40-50 mm.

    Insert is necessary muffle in stepswhich is then inserted into the groove and tighten the bolt. This method of installation will provide excellent reliability and good strength. Mapping can be both furniture screws.

    Screw head need drown in a drilled chamferwhich will then be closed with a decorative plastic plug.

All fasteners and drill on the tree can buy in construction stores.

Build a wooden staircase to the second floor without reliable fixation is impossible. But if the design of a small size: for the country house in 5-6 steps, then additional fasteners for steps it's not necessary to arrange. The good frame will endure the load.

With drawings, design and process of assembling a wooden staircase with their own hands everything is clear. BUT instruments This will require that:

    To drill holes, you will need a manual or electric drill, in the extreme case - the covot.

    To cut the boards And other wooden parts need a tree hacksaw. For small elements, it is possible to use a metal hacksaw with large teeth.

    For fastening bolts, screws and screws will need screwdrivers with a corresponding set of tips or electric (rechargeable) screwdriver. You can use the electric drill, but it is too heavy.

    To make groin, You should stockpenter. A light hammer is useful. Mass B. 200-250 Grams will be enough.

    With grinding And aligning sawn timber can not do without a planer and emery paper of all sizes: large, medium and shallow.

    For marking and measurement You need to capture a tape measure, a plumbing angle, a simple solid pencil and several lines long 50-80 cm.

Small agricultural paper Be sure to clean all detailsOtherwise, after drying, the lacquer of the tree fiber will be strained, which will adversely affect the appearance of the entire staircase.

Training video

At the end of the material we offer to watch a video with the manufacture of a wooden two-year staircase:

One-story buildings in the private sector are elevated only to ensure economic activity, and are used as utility buildings. Full residential building at least in 2 floors. Consequently, without such a functional element, as a staircase to the second floor, can not do.

The problem of moving from one level to another can be solved simply - buy a finished kit and install yourself.

Its value begins approximately from 33,000 rubles (pine, 14 steps, staircase swivel with two spans). Montage do it yourself easy. The problem is different - how it will fit into the interior, do not have the fitting of individual elements or partial reconstruction of the 1st floor?

Many firms provide services for the manufacture of sets according to the customer's drawings, but as practice shows, such stairs cost 1.5 times more expensive. That is why most often the most acceptable option is to make a wooden staircase to the second floor with "zero", which is quite possible with their own hands.

How to do what this article is dedicated to this.

Terminology

Before proceeding with constructive features, some specific definitions should be "decrypted". The main elements are shown in the schemes.

  • Step. Its horizontal part is called a guide, vertical (it may not be) - a risk.
  • Supporting beams. If the steps are adjacent to the end parts to them, then this is a string. If they are "superimposed" to the beam and their edges come for it, then it is called Kosur.
  • Rail supports. They are more often called balusters or pillars. For screw construction, the term stand is used.
  • Fasteners. In some varieties of stairs, the fixation of steps directly on the adjacent wall is made by special bolts - the hospitals.

Types of designs of stairs

For self-making the most simple - marches. For a private house, they are installed in one or two spans. Screw stairs for self-assembly are much more complicated (). In addition, the production of the necessary calculations for them has its own specifics.

Features of calculating the ladder parameters

Next, general recommendations are given, which are just desirable to navigate when designing the inner staircase. Since all houses (and rooms) are distinguished by architecture, dimensions, planning, then some single template cannot be in principle.

Steep

The optimal bias of the spans - ranging from 35 to 450. At a sharp staircase, it is much more difficult to rise (especially people with disabilities, advanced years or small children). Yes, the carrying of large, heavy things from the floor to the floor will also be complicated.

The design is more common inconvenient in that it will take more space for its installation, as the length of each span will increase. And what specifically the angle to choose - at the discretion of the owner.

Width

It is unlikely that anyone in a private house will move from the floor to the floor as part of the group of comrades, therefore, when drawing up the scheme, it is advisable to navigate the dimensions of one person. The width staircase of about 1.2 - 1.5 m for a private house is a completely acceptable option. And walking on it, and even tolerate furnishing items will be quite convenient.

Steps parameters

  • Appeal. It should fully fit the man's foot (based on the 45th size), therefore the optimal width of the step is within 250 - 300 mm.
  • Risers. In order to be comfortably moving to people of any growth and age, its height is taken within 150 - 200 mm. It is enough, regardless of the design.

On a note! All specified dimensions are absolutely the same for each stage of one staircase. Otherwise, about the convenience of moving is not to speak.

Height of stairs

Determined as the distance from the floor covering the lower floor to the ceiling + overlap thickness. For example, 270 + 40 - 310 (cm).

Number of steps

The height of the structure (310) is divided into the term of the approach and thickness of the sharpening boards, after which it is rounded to the whole value (largely). For example, if "Society" is used, then 20 + 4 \u003d 24 cm.

Total - 310: 24 \u003d 13 (steps).

Recommendation - For stairs with the number of steps of more than 18 and steepness within 450, special platforms should be installed. Depending on the purpose, they are called differently rotary, observation, intermediate. Therefore, the staircase itself will already consist of separate marches (spans). They may be the same type, or are made in various schemes, since the playground is not necessarily located exactly in the center of the structure.

Length of stairs

It is easy to define, knowing the number of steps and the magnitude of each sticky. These values \u200b\u200bare multiplied. If the steps have protrusions, they are not taken into account.

Sometimes the calculations show that such a design "does not fit" in a particular room. In such cases, or increase the number of marches, or equip the so-called fatigue (rotary) steps.

Starts - top view

The height of the spans relative to the floor

It is necessary to focus on human growth + a small supply. The optimal is the design in which the distance between the extreme steps and the ceiling is not less than 2 m. Otherwise, the rising person at the end of the span will have to bend a head.

Materials

In most cases, such a breed of wood is chosen like pine. It is inexpensive, but it is not characterized by durability. Larch is largely preferable. The presence of a special resin in its structure makes the material when absorbing moisture is even stronger. And this for home stairs, given the specifics of its operation - it is important. All other options, such as oak, cedar, maple and a number of other budget, cannot be called.

Before you begin working with wood, it is necessary to dry well. Further shrinkage of the material (including twisting) will lead to the fact that the staircase literally falls apart.

The procedure for installing the stairs

Consider on the simplest example - the stairs single-hour. This option can be considered basic, since the algorithm of action is the same, regardless of the number of spans.

Preparation of structural elements

  • Kosouras. The main requirement - they must be absolutely identical. The board is only one-piece, without defects, no less "forty". Accordingly, the steps are made in advance.
  • Stages. The edges must be curly, as the sharp edges increase the risk of injury. The board is chosen absolutely smooth, thoroughly treated (polished). The length is based on their edges for the boosters for no more than 2 to 4 cm. Thickness - within 300 - 400 mm.
  • Risers. They do not experience a significant load, as it has to be mainly on supporting beams. In order not to increase the overall weight of the span, there are enough boards for them.

Tip - For the private house, the risers are better not to install, as it is much more complicated on the staircase of this (closed) type of cleaning.

  • Handrails, balusters. Alone to make them so that the staircase becomes not only a means of movement, but also the decoration of the house, it is unlikely to succeed. Therefore, these structural elements are or purchased in the store, or order in the workshop.

Assembling stairs

Wall markup

In accordance with the installation and drawing scheme.

Fastening of support beams (cosomov)

Fixing the top of the march is made differently (as more convenient). Option number 1 - chipped in the ceiling beam. Option number 2 - Metal stops are used, which are fixed on the beam anchors. In any case, the place of connection of the structural elements should be as reliable as possible.

For mounting the bottom of the cosomes on the floor, the support timber is mounted. To the wall - fixation on.

Installation of precision

If they are mounted, they are screwed to Kosomers.

Laying a taught

They are fixed both on the support beams and on the risers (at least at one point, in the center).

For convenience, the installation of steps begins with the bottom. Options are shown in the diagram.

Installing Balyasin

First of all, the extreme - top and bottom of the march are fixed. Between them stretches the "ATTA", focusing on which, you can mount the rest of the rack.

Installation handrails

They are fixed on each of the racks that are located on the march. They can be made almost from any material - metal, plastic, and not just a tree.

Treatment

The article outlines only the overall procedure and the basic recommendations are given. Deciding with the specific design of the stairs, the entire material available on this topic should be explored, since for different models there are nuances and installation, and the calculations of individual components. For example, swivel steps that can be rectangular or segmented.

You can watch video instructions for the manufacture of a wooden staircase:

But the overall work schedule is described in detail, and the author hopes that this article will help the reader in self-construct. Successes!

Houses having more than one floor, will not be able to do without such a design as an inter-storey staircase. Many specialized organizations offer services for their manufacturing and installation that are not cheap. Make a wooden staircase to the second floor with your own hands will be much more practical and cheaper.

Wooden stairs on the second floor can be marching and screw. For the construction of the stairs to the second floor with their own hands, marches are the easiemas. They can have one or more spans depending on the specifics of the construction and the overall design. To calculate all parameters, you can use the generally accepted rules. In our article "" You can find out more detail in the creation of a staircase with several spans.

  • If the number of steps in the staircase march exceeds 18 pieces, it is recommended to make intermediate sites.
  • Number of steps. The length of the staircase is divided to the height of the stage. The height of the stage consists of the height of the riser (15-20 cm) and the thickness of the sticky.

Important! To use steps that have a width of the sticky, less than the width of the foot is not only inconvenient, but not safe!

  • Length of a staircase march. To calculate, it is necessary to take points of the beginning and end of the staircase by the level of overlaps from the first to the second floor. Having height and width, by the formula for calculating the hypotenuse of a rectangular triangle, we calculate the length of the staircase. It is necessary to take into account the safe angle of inclination from 30 ° to 45 °.
  • The height of the spans should correspond to the growth of man plus 20 cm, so as not to bend and not injured about the upper staircase or ceiling. The optimal height between the steps and the ceiling is 2 meters. The calculation begins with measuring the height between the floors and the size of the staircase.

Material for stairs

For the manufacture of stairs, with their own hands, a stranded wood is selected, which does not have spikes, deformations, surface irregularities. Before starting work, wood dry. To give it a deeper color, the surface is treated with a mourn. After that, several layers of waterproof varnish are applied to the wood.

High-quality wood for stairs should be the first grade and have no more than 10% humidity. Use material with a humidity of more than 10% for the manufacture of stairs is not recommended. When drying, wood will be prone to deformation and the staircase will begin to creak. To make a staircase with your own hands, use as budget varieties of wood (pine, birch, ash), and more expensive elite (oak, cedar, maple).

Characteristics of some types of wood:

  • Pine - wood most often light gray. It has low strength and is easily exposed to external influence. With high humidity, it may increase in size. Es in demand due to a small cost.

  • Birch - light wood, has a homogeneous structure. Survived raw materials due to low prices.

  • Ash is characterized by light color and a specific fiber structure. The process of working with it does not cause labor, well-rising material, but the indicators of strength are even higher than that of oak.

  • Oak - one of the solid varieties of light yellow color. It is believed that the products from this tree are the most durable and durable, which is reflected in price.

  • Maple - due to the lack of pores is characterized by high strength. This grade does not absorb moisture, as a result of which the products from it can be placed outside the buildings. Along with this, maple is very complicated in processing.

Installation of a single-handed wooden staircase with your own hands

This method is considered reference, since the installation order is regardless of the number of spans, monotonous. The kit includes cosos, railing, sticking, and risers. Disclosures and risers are called the horizontal and vertical part of the steps, respectively. Kosur is the main carrier part in which special grooves are cut for mounting steps.

Preparation of parts of the stairs


Assembling stairs do it yourself

To mount the cosomes at the top of the staircase on the ceiling beam, it is necessary to make cuttings for installation. Alternatively, instead of propilov, stops from metal, which are attached to the vertical of overlapping by anchor bolts are used.

In the floor of the lower floor, the support bar is mounted on the bottom line line and stop it with anchor bolts.

Installation of steps does not differ in difficulty. On cutouts in cosos, you must apply a layer of glue and attach the risers. Then the risers need to be aligned along the edges and fasten with screws. Top on them are stacked. Do not be lazy to use thin gaskets from the polymer in the form of a tape. This simple secret will help to avoid friction of one wooden part of another, preventing, thus, an unpleasant creaking during operation. Steps are fixed on risers and cows.

Tip! To make it easy to work, the installation of steps must be started with the bottom of the march.

When installing the balaasine, you need to withstand one level. To do this, the upper and lower bales are installed, the thread is stretched and all others are installed at its level. Balyasits are fastened with screws or self-drawers, which are later closed with plugs or shut off with a special grout. The handrails are mounted on the balusters and are fixed on them. At the same time, the handrails can be made from any material, and not just from the tree.

Final treatment

The assembled staircase is once again slapped, paying special attention to the butt compounds and ends. After grinding, the staircase is covered with varnish, paint, wax, or other protective means. Each new layer is applied 2-3 times after drying the previous one. Before painting wood, with the help of the veil, you can give some kind of sidel.

Print staircase for the second floor with your own hands, features of installation

Screw stairs are more beautiful, but their manufacture and installation is more complicated by the march. As a rule, screw structures are installed in places with limited space, where the route is simply impossible to install the route staircase.

When calculating the heights and number of steps, it is necessary to consider that no less than 200 mm should always be overhead and when designing it is necessary to take into account the growth of people living in the house. To avoid discomfort, the vertical distance between the rows of steps needs to be done about 2 meters. The width of the stairs is about 0.8 meters. Regardless of the type of stairs, this is the optimal dimensions that provide convenient movement.

The most convenient depth of sticking in support from 15 cm, at the end of the stage at least 35 cm. The average height of the riser is about 20 cm (if any). It is often recommended to abandon the risers on the screw staircases. This has a number of significant advantages:

  • there is an opinion that without them the rise is more convenient;
  • the mass of the entire design is significantly reduced;
  • saving funds on materials.

Railing for a screw staircase

Wooden stairs on the second floor are equipped with rails from glued wood. They easily take the shape of the screw staircase, if they thoroughly soak in hot water, hold in the form they should have, and give dry.

Wood bending followed by fixation - the process is quite troublesome and requiring certain skills.

Make bent railing:

Processing of bent railing:

Normal is considered to be the height of the railing about 1 meter. They are attached to the balusters whose height is selected individually for each specific project. Not every craftic has access to the woodworking machine, so if you want to have accurate balusters, you can simply go for them to the nearest construction store. They are inexpensive.

With all this it is necessary to remember that the screw staircases on the second floor have limited functionality, since it is almost impossible to transport furniture and large-sized materials. It cannot use 2 people walking in different directions at the same time. But in any case, the staircase made with your own hands is a kind of achievement and pride.

Modern private country houses grow like mushrooms, or rather like pine or even sequoia. Today is not the rarity dacha at home in two, or even in three floors. And there is still houses with an attic. Not to mention two-level apartments. In order to climb up the top of the necessary stairs or elevator. The latter, of course, pambling, although there is a place to be. We will talk about how to make a wooden staircase on their own.

It can be assumed that it is not so difficult, but in reality such work has its subtleties and requires knowledge of the case. After all, it is not necessary for any staircase, but such a structure that will be beautiful, durable and so safe so that it can be calmly exploited long enough.


Stairs for a country house, cottage or cottage often make a tree. The right choice of durable wood is a guarantee that the staircase will slightly. At the same time, an environmental component has an important meaning.

Types and types of stairs for a private house

The choice of stairs is often limited by the framework of the existing space for its device, and of course budget. But, guided better than the convenience of location and aesthetic preferences. Among the existing structures of wooden stairs are the most common march and screws.

Screw stairs

The option is convenient when space is limited. Such a staircase can be placed on the heel of 1.5 meters. True use it only for moving upstairs or down one person. Raise something large-sized, nr, furniture, no longer succeed.

In addition, it has a complex design, and its construction requires more labor costs.

At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the set of nuances: check the structure for strength, first of all, the carrier racks must be reliable.

The complexity of the design is associated with the fact that the main parts have to count on taking into account all design features.

Experienced specialists will cope with such work. Without special skills and tools, do it yourself difficult.

Marsey stairs

Wooden stairs for home can be single-hour, two-hours, three-time and multi-party (each of them is used under certain conditions, which depend on the floor and area of \u200b\u200bthe building).

The marching stairs are divided into direct and swivels. Can be located along the wall or as an independent design in the middle of the room.

It is worth noting that the device direct staircase assumes the presence of sufficient free space, as it takes a lot of space. In general, this type of construction is much easier in terms of self-implementing compared to the screw option.

If the number of steps more than 10, the staircase is recommended to divide into two parts by connecting them between themselves the intermediate platform. If necessary and saving space (it depends on the characteristics of the room) from the intermediate platform, the staircase can go up with a turn, the so-called staircase with rotary steps (trapezoidal steps that are also called quiet).

The staircase with a turn of 90 degrees is called a quarter-coordinate. The semoretum staircase has an angle of rotation 180 degrees.

When the rotation is 360 degrees, then this is an option of a circular or spiral staircase. Although, in principle, this is an ordinary marching staircase with running steps and turning on * degrees.

Combined stairs

Depending on the planning and project of the house, a combination staircase structure is possible, which will consist of two or more types of stairs. For example, the marching staircase on a certain span is complemented by a screw element with a support on the growths or cosos. Of course, such a design is very complex and requires accurate calculations.

Before choosing one or another design, you should need to appreciate your capabilities. It would be better if there will be a simpler straight staircase, but reliable and from high-quality materials than an intricate spiral or combined, to build the construction of the means or forces.

And of course, the space is of determining importance, so that it does not turn out that the staircase takes a large half of the house.

Start with measurements and calculations. Draw a drawing or order from specialists. You can even create a 3D model of the future staircase and clearly see the location in your layout.

Inter-storey wooden stairs - selection of components and carrier elements

It is possible that the staircase created will be the first to your experience, then the best choice will be a straight staircase. This option is easy to manufacture, its installation and installation is also not very complex, and the result resulting will meet all basic requirements for strength, convenience and durability.

Production of a staircase from wood with their own hands is possible in the presence of appropriate tools, high-quality lumber and experience.

Material for the construction of the stairs:

  • Bruks for steps, the thickness of which should be at least 40 mm.
  • Boards are approximately the same width and size provided by the project.
  • Beams for sticking 30-40 mm.
  • Beams for approaches not less than 30 mm.
  • Bar for Kosomrov or Testa 50x250 mm.
  • Handrails, railing and balusters can be made independently, but better to buy ready.
  • For fasteners, stainless steel screws are used.

Figures featured wooden stairs drawings

Installation of a wooden staircase with her own hands:

  1. As mentioned above, it is first necessary to think over the design, make calculation of the number of steps and determine the size of the stairs (width, length), you can download the finished drawing on the Internet or make a simple scheme yourself.
  2. Standard march can be built with supporting steps on the theettes that pass from two sides. Another option attachment assumes the support of the steps on the platforms, which are beams located below the steps.
  3. All steps are first connected with the assets, then the design is strengthened by supporting bars, which are placed under the staircase at an equal distance from each other. With a sufficiently high angle of inclination march, there is no need for bars, although it is still desirable to install them to ensure that security guarantee.
  4. The bottom and top of the testers should be mounted on the walls, sex or ceiling.