Independent production of upholstered furniture for the home can provide a lot of advantages and opportunities for creating an original design and individual parameters of home interior items. The finished product will not only become the pride of independent work, but will also allow you to accurately enter the dimensions of the furniture in any room and show your own design talent, but before direct work, how to make a sofa with your own hands.

Creating furniture with your own hands is a feasible task for everyone who knows how to use tools and is ready to be patient. A little perseverance, hard work and imagination will help create an original masterpiece that will serve for many years and delight the eye every day.

A cozy home is hard to imagine without beautiful upholstered furniture. Therefore, the sofa often occupies a dominant position in the home interior. A lot of time is spent on it: games with children, sleep, gatherings with friends and much more. To create your own sofa, you first need to figure out which design will best suit the needs of the family.

To understand how to make a sofa with your own hands, you need to study their varieties. Among the variety of types of upholstered furniture, there are several most popular models:

• Book. This design allows you to fold a homemade sofa in one motion, but it is quite difficult to assemble the frame correctly, in addition, you will need welding and assembling a special mechanism.
• Dolphin. This is a more modern version of the design, but it is quite difficult to assemble it. Unfolding occurs due to the extension of the lower section and when covering it with a folding back.
• Pull-out system. Such a device allows you to create a high-quality, even surface for sleeping and facilitates the transformation process.

sofa dolphin

• Corner sofa. One of the most popular models. The corners fit perfectly into any interior, allow you to use more usable space and provide a comfortable bed.
• Ottoman. The simplest design. These sofas do not fold out, so the assembly of the frame will be very simple.

When choosing the future design of the sofa, it is worth considering the place where it will stand and the purpose of its use. Before starting work, you need to accurately measure, provide for how many people will sit on it, if this is a future bed - consider the height of a person, think through all the details, make preliminary drawings, and only then start work.

Do-it-yourself corner sofa

To make a high-quality corner sofa with your own hands, you need to make an effort, but the result is worth it. After all, the future interior object will save more than half the cost of the finished products of stores, harmoniously fit into the space of the home, make it possible to place bed linen and other household trifles in niches, and when assembled, it will economically spend space.

Also, do not forget that the corner sofa has a more prestigious look than a simple folding version, and if you do not skimp on high-quality materials, the result will delight for many years.
In order not to be disappointed in your own idea and avoid banal mistakes, you should follow some simple rules:

• if the work is being done for the first time, then you need to choose the simplest drawing, without additional shelves and tables;
• discard spiked joints, such work can only be done qualitatively by a professional carpenter;
• develop or select among the existing ones a simple drawing for a handmade corner sofa with an indication of all elements, dimensions and movable components of the structure;
• do not connect the parts with nails, over time they become loose and the structure falls apart, and self-tapping screws can strengthen the wood frame for many years;
• when choosing wood, preference is given to conifers, they are more durable, have a rich fibrous structure and prevent moths from appearing in furniture;

• all structural parts to be joined must be glued, but before this procedure, make sure that the joint is assembled correctly and all elements are docked as needed;
• wooden parts made by hand must be carefully sanded to give the material greater strength and secure work with the product.

Material selection

For the first time, a do-it-yourself corner sofa should be made from materials that are not the most expensive category. This will not spoil the final product, but will help to understand the intricacies of the work and avoid excessive costs.

To create a corner sofa, you need to purchase at a hardware store:

• pine timber 30 by 50 mm;
• fiberboard panels 3 mm;
• chipboard panels 16 mm;
• plywood sheets of 5 and 15 mm;
• lifting mechanism or microlift;
• 9 legs for furniture;
• dense sheets of foam rubber 20 and 40 mm;
• dense material for furniture upholstery;
• filler for upholstery and pillows of your choice.

To complete all the work, you must have the following tools available:

• jigsaw (work can also be done with a hacksaw, but the edges may turn out to be uneven);
• drill with a set of drills;
• screwdriver;

• a knife with a sharp blade for cutting foam rubber;
• several types of fastening: nails, self-tapping screws, screws;
• PVA glue for gluing foam rubber and carpentry glue for joints;
• sewing machine for creating upholstery, covers and pillows.

Before starting work, consider how the parts will be cut. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room does not allow high-quality measurements and cuts, then you should entrust this work to professionals. Most hardware stores and building materials stores offer similar services.

Frame assembly

To start the assembly, you need to clearly imagine how to assemble the sofa, pre-mark the details on the chipboard sheets, according to the drawing and the selected dimensions. Then cut them out, correcting all the irregularities, and fitting the size of the parts to each other. Among the resulting blanks should be:

• Frame. This is the simplest part on which the rest of the structure will be attached.
• Armrests. For full-fledged furniture, you will need two identical armrests. It is necessary to assemble them in accordance with the drawings, attaching small parts to larger ones in descending order of size.

• Seats. It is preferable to assemble the seats, like the sofa itself, in parts. First one part, then the second. When assembling the seats, special attention should be paid to checking the coincidence of the diagonals of the boxes, so the correct shape will be created and the frame will become stable.
• Back. Having built a frame according to the drawing, you can connect the parts and attach the back to the sofa. Also, in the part with the linen box, you need to fix the bottom.

The frame of the sofa must be assembled with special care, since the stability, strength and durability of future furniture depend on it.

Foam covering

Before starting the sheathing, it is necessary to check the stability of the joints, they should not move, the fastening should be rigid. For foam sheathing, you need to take measurements from all surfaces. Each element is cut out separately and glued to the surface, after which the next element is measured. Each next part is joined with the previous glued elements.

The work must be done gradually, carefully trimming the patterns. Trimmings can be used for joints and small parts. For seats, you need to lay a thick layer of foam rubber, at least 100 mm.

If this is not available, then several layers of thinner material must first be glued together. The future comfort of the seats depends on the quality of this work. After finishing work, check the tightness of the upholstery and cover all hard and pointed parts of the body.

fabric upholstery

Initially, for sheathing, you need to choose a quality fabric. It is the upholstery fabric that determines the final appearance of the finished furniture. The widest range of modern textile stores are able to offer a wide variety of fabric options, both natural and synthetic.

Among the most popular types of upholstery fabric for a sofa, it is better to choose from the following types of textiles:

• Tapestry. This is an elite type of upholstery. The strength of the threads and the special weaving structure not only makes it possible to give strength to the material, but also to create an incredible pattern and texture.
• Jacquard. Premium material with a silky sheen and depth of texture. But this option is less wear-resistant and does not respond well to chemical and mechanical cleaning.

• Gunny. Budget solution for sofa upholstery. Pairwise weaving of threads resembles burlap. The material is pleasant to the touch and resistant to abrasion.
• Velours. Artificial velor is quite cheap, but there are also expensive natural varieties. The front side of the material resembles soft suede and can convey original patterns.
• Flock. Fabric with dense application of pile. This option is suitable for pet owners, because it is durable and not afraid of claws.
• Synthetic leather. Very durable material with a luxurious appearance. It is effective to use it in the lining of armrests and elements subject to increased friction. The disadvantage of the material can be considered a not very pleasant surface for contact with open parts of the body, especially in hot weather.

It is very important to remember that the combination of two or even three fabrics will make the product more original. It is enough to choose the right combination of fabrics and the result will be amazing.

For a smooth and neat sheathing, you need to perform the work in the following order:

• make templates for all the details from newspapers and check their coincidence by attaching the templates to a sofa upholstered with foam rubber;

• then, along the patterns on the wrong side of the fabric, borders are drawn and details are cut out with a margin of 1 cm or more;
• symmetrical ties on the sofa make the appearance more harmonious, and save the finished product from the folds that form during operation;
• in order for fabric tighteners to hold well and have an aesthetic appearance, you need to fasten buttons or loops through pre-made holes on the body plates;
• so that the foam rubber crumbles less, a layer of agrotextile should be laid between it and the upholstery fabric;
• fastening of fabrics is carried out with a construction stapler: first one side is attached, then the fabric is straightened, stretched and attached to the opposite side, then the edges are tucked in.

After completing all the operations, you need to assemble the sofa again. For a harmonious look, pillows or decor in the form of bundles, tassels and stitches are added. Legs and wood lining are attached last. In this form, a do-it-yourself corner sofa will last for many years and will delight the eyes of guests and household members.

A little practice and diligence will help turn this hobby into an additional income for the production of custom-made furniture.

If not, then making upholstered furniture with your own hands will help save a lot on updating the furniture set at home, in the country or as a gift to relatives.

Nowadays, furniture stores are literally overflowing with various options for upholstered furniture of domestic and foreign production, but the prices for it do not always please buyers. In addition, the cost of products sometimes clearly does not correspond to the quality of their manufacture. Therefore, in order to purchase a set of furniture, or at least one of its items, you have to save up the required amount for several months or get into debt by taking a loan.

However, there is another option to acquire the necessary interior accessory - this is to make, for example, a sofa with your own hands. For those who know at least a little how to work with carpentry tools, it will not be difficult to do this, albeit difficult, but very entertaining work. This publication will present several options for the manufacture of sofas that can be used in residential areas or at their summer cottage. Of these, it is quite possible to choose the one suitable for a particular case, both in design and in the degree of its complexity. Practice shows that it will take three to four times less money than when purchasing a finished piece of furniture - so why not try to make it yourself.

Unscrupulous manufacturers often make the frame of upholstered furniture from which they have to, since the buyer does not have the opportunity to control the quality of the material. So, for the main frame, unedged bars eaten by a bark beetle are used, and ordinary cardboard is used to shape the backs. Well, the consumer for this literally penny material, lined with more or less decent trim, gives the amount for which you can buy a used car or live comfortably for the whole family for a month. Therefore, after making the calculations and making sure that you can save a very decent amount of money, you can get down to business on your own. In essence, the money that will be saved will become the salary of the home craftsman for making the furniture. In addition, there will be a reason to be proud of your talents in front of relatives and friends.

Tools for the job

Of course, the work will require certain tools that will be useful in the household not only for making furniture, but also for repairs. They will not take up much space in a closet on a balcony, garage or in one of the outbuildings of a private house.

The list of necessary tools for work includes:

• Hand circular saw, electric jigsaw and (or) hacksaw for wood and metal.
• Roulette, folding rule, building level, square.
• or a screwdriver with a set of nozzles.
• Electric drill with a set of drills.
• It's great if you have a manual router at your disposal.
• File with a large notch.
• Clamps for temporary fixation of structural elements before their permanent fastening.
• Chisels
• Hammer.
• Pliers
• Stapler and staples.
• Sewing machine for making sofa covers.

It should be noted here that if hand tools are used to build furniture, the work will take much longer, and the accuracy of the edges of the manufactured parts will not be guaranteed.

Instructions for making several models of sofas

First option: making a corner sofa

This sofa model can have different options in terms of size and design features:

• For example, the side protruding part of the sofa can be installed both on the left and on the right side;

• Various mechanisms are used for mounting the lower, retractable part;
• Plywood or board can be used to make a sofa;
• The soft parts of the structure can be made of foam rubber and synthetic winterizer, or only of synthetic winterizer.
• For decorative sheathing, fabric or leatherette is selected.

Sofa prices

The dimensions of the sofa depend on the size of the room, the height parameters of its owners, and, of course, their preferences. Taking the dimensions proposed in the drawings, they can be “tried on” to the room where the sofa is planned to be installed, and if necessary, corrected in one direction or another, within reason.

This drawing will help to become a starting point in choosing the dimensions of this piece of furniture. However, you should pay attention to the fact that this model is somewhat different in its design from the version, the manufacture of which will be described in the table. However, the difference lies only in fixing the side back, which is built into the narrow section of the sofa.

This model is not as easy to manufacture as it might seem at first glance, as the master used special mechanisms for unfolding the sofa. But, having carefully studied the instructions for assembling it, it is quite possible to figure it out and come to the conclusion that making such a sofa in a standard apartment, and without leaving one room, is a completely achievable goal.

Manufacturing process - step by step

Illustration
	So, the first step is to make calculations and determine the size. Not only the convenience of the sofa and its optimal placement in the room will depend on this stage, but also the amount of necessary materials and additional structural elements. To begin with, it is worth drawing a sketch of a sofa on a piece of paper and writing out all the necessary details of the design, indicating their number. Based on the compiled list, the final amount of materials that will need to be purchased is calculated.
	In this case, for the manufacture of the sofa, the craftsman chose plywood 20 mm thick. However, it can be used in combination with a board with a thickness of 20 ÷ 25 mm. The board is usually used to assemble the frame of the sofa, which is then sheathed with plywood. If a complex design option is chosen, then the thickness of the plywood for sheathing can be smaller and be 15 mm.
	As you can see in the illustrations presented, the work can be carried out in the same room where the sofa is planned to be installed. The only thing that needs to be provided is a solid base on which it will be possible to lay plywood and a board for marking and sawing. It is best to mark and make all the details of the structure at once, since when sawing wood, naturally, a large amount of sawdust is formed, which can be removed from the room at the same time without spreading it throughout the apartment. It is even better to stretch a plastic film on the floors of the room for the duration of these works, which, after they are completed, can be rolled up together with the resulting garbage and taken out of the house. With such a simple approach, you can save yourself from small debris, which tends to clog under baseboards and fly under other furniture.
	Plywood is cut according to markings using a hand-held circular saw, which guarantees a perfectly even cut of the edge. In the absence of a saw, you can also use an electric jigsaw, but it is more difficult to handle it, since its cutting part can go to the side. It is recommended to number and sign the finished parts of the structure - such foresight will significantly speed up the assembly of the sofa, since the components do not have to be searched for and selected for a long time.
	To fasten the details of the sofa into one structure, it is necessary to prepare wood screws with fine threads, 50 ÷ 60, 30, 25 and 20 mm long. Here you need to take into account that they will be screwed into the end side of plywood 25 mm thick, so their diameter should not exceed 5 mm. Self-tapping screws should have a regular head, as they will need to be sunk flush into the wood. To avoid splitting the plywood, it is recommended to drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm before screwing the screws into it. Then the fasteners will be screwed in easier, and the base will remain intact.
	Now that the sofa parts and fasteners are ready, you can proceed to the assembly of the structure. Since it consists of two sections, the larger one is assembled first.
	The back is taken, and the side parts of the lower box are attached to it. They are screwed through the rear wall panel to the end side of the side element with two or three self-tapping screws.
	Now the resulting structure is covered with a sheet of plywood prepared in size. When the sheet is screwed on, this section of the sofa will gain rigidity and strength.
	The sheet is laid evenly, close to the back wall and screwed with screws. First, it is attached to the horizontal end surfaces of the side walls of the box, and then, through the back wall, the screws are screwed into the thickness of the laid sheet. The pitch of fasteners should be 150÷180 mm.
	The assembled section is installed in the place where the sofa will be permanently located, and they begin to assemble the second, narrow part of the sofa. First, the side walls and the back of the box are assembled together. Self-tapping screws are screwed through a smaller wall and back, forming the width of the section, into the ends of the long sides, with the same step of 150 ÷ ​​180 mm.
	Now you need to screw its bottom to the assembled box. The box is covered with a sheet, leveled and screwed with self-tapping screws with a step of their installation of 200 mm. To fix the bottom, you can use self-tapping screws of a shorter length - 20 ÷ 25 mm, and their hats must be sunk into the plywood surface, otherwise there is a risk of spoiling the floor covering with them.
	When assembled, the design of the narrow section of the sofa looks like it is shown in the photo. When the sofa is ready, the inside of the box can be used to store bedding or other things. However, so that less dust from the floors gets into the box, it is recommended to subsequently sheathe it with a cloth. For this, a thin lining material is well suited.
	Now that the frames of both sections are ready, they need to be tried on each other. They are installed against the wall and move among themselves. Next, you need to return to work on the first wide section.
	Since it is planned to make the sofa sliding, for the part that will slide in and fold under the horizontal surface, three plywood parts will be needed - this is a horizontal surface (sunbed), a front wall and a 30 mm wide plank. In addition to wooden parts, you will need a special metal folding structure, which can be purchased at a furniture fittings store. Its width is selected depending on the linear dimensions of the wide section of the sofa. This metal mechanism is fixed on all three wooden parts that are not fastened together.
	First, the metal structure is screwed to the inside of the front part, and its back side, equipped with wheels, is fixed to the plywood plank. After that, the addition test can be performed. Any bar is applied to the upper structural element, which is pressed. In this case, the upper metal shelf of the mechanism should fall to the bottom.
	If the system works well, then you can move on to temporarily fixing the resulting folding structure on top of the plywood sheet that forms the lounger.
	It is temporarily fixed because it is necessary to determine the location of the metal parts of the mechanism on it, as well as to try it on for the general design of the sofa. You will have to remove the sunbed for laying foam rubber on it and covering it with fabric.
	So, the retractable part is fitted to the box of the wide section. At this stage, it is important to make sure how well the parts fit together, and whether they freely enter the space under the bed of the main section.
	The front side of the pull-out part of the sofa should have the same height as the surface of the lounger of the main section.
	Now it is necessary to reconcile the rise of that part of the lounger, which is fixed on the retractable structure, determine the height of the corners along which it will walk, as well as the location of the stopper.
	In order for the mobile part not to extend completely, but, reaching the edge of the lower part of the lounger, to stop, a rectangular profile pipe is fixed to the edge of the inner side of the wide section. For the convenience of marking its location, and then fixing it, the wide section is turned over and laid on the back wall.
	While the section is in an inverted position, a line is also marked on its side walls, on their inner side, along which the guide metal corners are then positioned and fixed. Thanks to these elements, the mobile part of the sofa will slide in and out freely. The corners are screwed through holes pre-drilled in the corners with self-tapping screws 20 mm long. Fastening is carried out with a step of 180÷200 mm.
	When the retractable lounger is fitted to the surface of the main surface of the sofa, the plywood can be removed. So it will be convenient to make another fitting, and then lay the foam on the retractable surface.
	The retractable part is installed with wheels screwed to the plywood plank, on the corners fixed on the sides of the wide section, and slides into the space under its lounger.
	Before making the soft part of the lounger, it is recommended to slightly round the corners of the plywood with a jigsaw, or process it with a file with a large notch - this will help keep the sheathing material from damage. Now you can proceed to the sheathing of the retractable surface of the lounger. To do this, foam rubber with a thickness of 100 mm of the desired size must be prepared. It is recommended to glue it to the plywood surface. For this purpose, polyurethane glue or “Moment”, which is pointwise applied to plywood, is suitable. A synthetic winterizer is laid on top of the foam rubber.
	The next step is to put on a sheathing cover on top of the synthetic winterizer, wrap it on the reverse side and fasten it with staples driven in with a stapler.
	When the mobile part of the lounger is sheathed with material, a folding metal structure is screwed back to it. This finished part of the sofa needs to be set aside for the time being.
	Next, you can move on to sheathing the plywood base of the lounger for the narrow section of the sofa. A foam rubber sheet is also glued onto it, covered with a padding polyester, which is well leveled. After that, the lounger is sheathed with leatherette - it is also fixed to the plywood with brackets. The upholstered lounger is also set aside for the time being.
	The next step is to cover the backs of both sections of the structure with fabric. The corners of the plywood backs also need to be treated with sandpaper, then pieces of synthetic winterizer are fixed along their edges, after which they are covered with fabric, which is fixed with staples on the back of the walls.
	Further, the front part of the box and half of the side walls of the narrow section of the sofa are upholstered with leatherette. It is recommended to lay a synthetic winterizer under the sheathing material. Sheathing of only these parts of the structure is carried out because on the sides, closer to the back wall, the side back of the sofa will be fixed on one side, and a wide section will adjoin the other side.
	Since the lounger of the narrow part of the sofa must rise and fall. special lifting mechanisms are marked and fixed in the box of this section.
	To check the operation of these structural elements, after fixing them to the sides of a narrow box, a plywood strip is alternately laid and fixed on top of them and pressed down, and then rises. The bar should be springy - this will subsequently ensure easy raising and lowering of the narrow section lounger.
	If the mechanism works satisfactorily, then in place of the fixed bar, it is installed and screwed to the sheathed soft part of the narrow section lounger structure. Here you will need an assistant, since at this stage the sunbed must be held at the right angle.
	Now the pillow covers sewn from leatherette are filled with synthetic winterizer and sewn up. It should be noted here that instead of padding polyester, pillows can also be formed from foam rubber.
	Further, side backs are formed from plywood and wooden slats. They can have a rectangular top or rounded on one or two sides - this design is made according to one's own desire. Some craftsmen, instead of wooden planks, use thick thick cardboard 2 ÷ 2.5 mm thick, which is sprayed with water from a spray bottle before fixing. Wet material is more plastic and takes the desired shape more easily. After its installation, before sheathing these structural elements, the cardboard must be dried well.
	At the next stage of work, the wooden or plywood-cardboard construction of the side backs is completely upholstered with padding polyester, except for the lower part. The material is secured with staples.
	The next step is to put leatherette covers on the backs and fasten them with staples to their lower part.
	Ready-made backs are installed and fixed on both sides of the overall structure - one on the outside of the narrow one, the other on the wide section.
	The backrests are fixed through the walls from the inside of the box with four to five self-tapping screws. In order for the fasteners to fit snugly into the material, the backs must be pressed against the wall, or they must be held securely by an assistant.
	As a result, the design of the sofa without removable pillows will look like this illustration.
	To expand the sofa, it is necessary to push forward the lower part with the sunbed recessed into it.
	Then, raise the sunbed to the same level with the rest of the pillows using the installed retractable lifting mechanism. It should be noted here that the author of the project went the hard way, choosing a mechanism of a rather complex design for unfolding, requiring precise installation. If such a system is not found or seems too complicated, then you can do it a little differently by making a retractable box with a plywood lid. However, in this case, instead of separate pillows, a double folding mattress is fixed to the wide section of the sofa. For the narrow section, two parts of the mattress are provided - the lower one is fixed to the plywood part of the lounger, while the upper one is made removable. The latter is simply removed and removed into the interior of the section when the sofa is unfolded. Thus, all pillows of the structure will be on the same level. In this case, four wheels will need to be fixed on the retractable part of the sofa, and a stopper should be installed under the plywood lounger of the wide section.
	Another nuance that I would like to clarify. In some models of this type of sofas, the side back, installed on a narrow section, seems to crash into it, that is, it does not go beyond the overall design. This option is convenient if the sofa should be pressed against the wall with this side, so there will be no space between it and the sofa, in which dust will inevitably accumulate.
	If you choose a model with a built-in side back, as well as with mattresses instead of individual pillows on the lounger, the corner sofa will look like this illustration. Moreover, in this case, all the pillows are made of foam rubber, which must be covered with padding polyester, and then filled into fabric or leatherette covers.

Second option: sofa book

Design features and required materials

This version of the sofa can be called traditional for many Russian apartments and, despite the fact that the model was developed several decades ago, it still remains in demand by buyers. This fact can be explained by the fact that it is simple and reliable in operation, and the mechanism designed for unfolding it is easy to mount, as it has a clear, simple design.

Today, the task of manufacturing such a sofa is also simplified by the fact that a large selection of fittings is presented in modern furniture stores.

For example, fiberboard, which was previously used for sheathing a structure, can be replaced with lamellas designed specifically for installation on beds and sofas. They not only perfectly replace sheet material, but also compensate for the softness of the structure, as they tend to spring. Thanks to this quality of details, the thickness of the mattresses can be made smaller.

The design, which will be presented below, must be manufactured and assembled in accordance with these recommendations, but the design, as well as the shape of the side backs, can be made according to your own sketches, but in compliance with the basic dimensions.

So, the sofa book consists of the following elements - this is a backrest, a lounger seat, side backrests and a box for storing bedding or other things.

To make a sofa of this design you will need:

• Board with a thickness of 20 ÷ 25 and a width of 200 mm for the sofa frame.
• A beam with a section size of 50 × 50, 60 × 40 and 50 × 30 mm.
• Fiberboard 4 ÷ 5 mm thick.
• 32 furniture slats 65 mm wide, 500 mm long.
• Foam rubber and synthetic winterizer.
• Upholstery fabric.
• Sofa unfolding mechanism (paired).
• Legs.

Illustrated step by step instructions for making

The first step is to draw up a sketch drawing of the sofa and put down the dimensions of all the details on it. Having such a graphic document in front of your eyes, it will be much easier to make all the necessary structural elements.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The assembly of the sofa box is carried out first. Its size should be 1900 × 800 mm. Moreover, first, bars are fixed to the long details of the box, along their edges - they are screwed using self-tapping screws 60 mm long. The next step, to the inner sides of the bars fixed on the long walls of the box, the side parts are screwed. Before the final tightening of the fixing screws, it is recommended to measure the diagonals of the box - they must have the same size.
	The next step, to give rigidity to the structure, in the middle part of the bottom area of ​​the box, two transverse bars with a section of 50 × 30 mm and a length of 800 mm are screwed from the outside. They are installed at a distance of 650 mm from the edge and 600 mm between them. In order for the bars to be fixed flush with the underside of the box, grooves 55 mm wide and 30 mm deep are cut in the boards at a specified distance from each other. In these grooves and fit, and then the transverse bars are fixed. After the box is assembled, its bottom is sheathed with a fiberboard sheet, the size of which is 1800 × 800 mm. Fixing the sheet on the frame can be done with staples, nails or self-tapping screws 20 mm long.
	The next step is the back and seat frames - their design has the same linear parameters. For their manufacture, a beam with a section of 50 × 40 mm is prepared. Seven parts of the following sizes are cut out of it: 3 pcs. - 650 mm; 2 pcs. – 400 mm, 1 pc. - 1890 mm and 1 pc. - 1880 mm. The frames are assembled in the following sequence: first, on a beam 1890 mm long, 50 mm are deposited from its edges. Bars 650 mm long will be fixed in these places. Their other side is fixed along the edges of the beam, which has a length of 1880 mm. Then, on long bars, their middle is determined and the middle crossbar is installed. Further, elements 400 mm long are attached to the free edges of the longest beam. In addition, they are screwed with self-tapping screws 70 ÷ 80 mm long to the extreme short transverse bars. These elements, before fixing, are cut in the upper part at an angle of 30 degrees. They will be in the front of the lounger and in the upper back. When unfolding the sofa, the side back should be between these protrusions of the structure.
	The simplest connection of a beam is in half a tree, that is, in each beam, at the place of its connection with a perpendicular one, half of its thickness is cut out at the corners. In our case, this is 20 mm, that is, the groove should have a size of 50 × 50 × 20 mm. To install the middle beam, from each of its edges, as well as in the place marked on the long beam, 20 mm of thickness is also cut out, and the groove must also have the size indicated above. Then the transverse beam is first glued into the groove, and then screwed with two self-tapping screws 30 mm long, with their diagonal arrangement. It must be said that it is possible to fasten structural elements with other connections, but this is one of the simplest.
	Further, the long sides of the frame are marked for the installation of lamellas, the distance between which should be 60 mm. According to the marking, metal or plastic brackets with grooves are fixed, which come with the lamellas. After fixing them on the frame of the backrest and lounger, the edges of the lamellas are inserted into them.
	The next step is to make the side backrests-armrests. First, according to the dimensions shown in the illustration, four identical parts are marked out, drawn and cut out.
	Then the two cut parts are stacked in a mirror image to each other and marked. According to this marking, bars having a thickness of 50 mm are fixed. To begin with, they can be glued with wood glue. Their width can be the same or different, the main thing is that in the places where they will be attached to the sofa box, the beam should have a width of at least 80 ÷ 100 mm, since holes for fixing bolts 120 × 8 mm in size will be drilled in them. Bolt holes are drilled immediately after the glue on which the frame beam is fixed has dried, at a height of 150 mm from the bottom of the side back. Further, the frame is covered with a second similar part, cut out of fiberboard, which is nailed to it with nails 30 mm long. After that, the sides are turned over, and the other side of the fiberboard is also nailed and holes are also drilled in it.
	Further, in the side walls of the box, at a height of 150 mm, with an indent from the edge of 100 mm, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled to fix the side walls. In addition, at this stage it is most convenient to screw the legs of the sofa to the box, since after fixing the remaining elements, it will be more difficult to turn the box over.
	The next step is to attach folding mechanisms to the back, sunbed and box. The scheme of their installation is presented in this illustration. Fixation of metal elements is carried out with the help of bolts, for which holes are drilled in the side walls of the structures. In addition to bolts, self-tapping screws are used to fix the mechanism - for example, they are additionally attached to the corner plates on the back and seat frames.
	To begin with, on the side wall of the box, you need to find the middle, 5 mm is deposited on each side of it, at this distance from the middle the back and sunbed are laid. A mechanism is attached to them and marks are made on all the details of the sofa, along which holes will be drilled. Further, the mechanism is fixed on all the details of the sofa.
	After the folding system is fixed, you need to try on the side backs to the sofa. But so far they are not screwed, since before that they will need to be sheathed.
	Sheathing is done starting from the back and sunbed. To do this, the sofa is laid out and first interlining is laid on the lamellas, then a thin synthetic winterizer, and on top of it - foam rubber 50 mm thick. So that the foam rubber does not interfere with the folding and unfolding of the sofa, its corners adjacent to the mechanism are cut out, as shown in this illustration.
	To make the back and lounger more comfortable for sitting, additional foam rubber strips are glued to their edges on top of the foam rubber, 200 wide and 20 ÷ 25 mm thick. Then, the entire flooring is covered with another sheet of foam rubber, 20 mm thick, but having a large width, such that it can be bent under the thickness of the sunbed structure and behind the back. There, the foam rubber is fixed with staples using a stapler.
	The foam rubber fixed on the frame is covered with a thin layer of synthetic winterizer - these materials are well fastened together without the use of glue. After that, sewn-to-size covers are put on top of the back and sunbed, which are nailed to the wooden structural elements with staples. If desired, in several places of the sofa, buttons sheathed with the same material are installed with strong cords inserted through them, which are threaded through the sheathing and tied to the lamellas, and their ends are shot to the wooden structural elements with brackets. After sheathing the lounger and the back of the structure, the upholstery is also fixed on the front side of the base-box.
	Next, move on to work on the side backs. The first step is to glue the foam on the top side. On the rise and in the upper part, the thickness of the foam rubber should be 50 mm, and in the lower area where the hand will lie - 80 mm. It should turn out approximately as shown in the photo.
	In the next step, the armrest of the side backrest is covered with foam rubber 20 mm thick, which is nailed to the fiberboard with staples.
	On top of the foam rubber fixed on the armrest, another foam rubber sheet 20 mm thick is fixed. It should protrude from the front of the armrest by about 100 mm.
	The front protruding part of the foam rubber is bent and adjusted with staples to the front of the side back frame. Further, it is recommended to cover the foam rubber on the armrest, as well as the entire area of ​​the walls below with a padding polyester, which is also nailed with staples.
	Before performing the next operation, bolts are inserted into the holes drilled in the side backrests, onto which washers are put on. The next step is to cut out pieces of fabric of the desired size and shape, and then they sheathe the walls of the sides. First, the fabric is nailed with staples in the upper part, and then tucked under the bottom of the back and fixed there.
	Further, the armrests are covered with separate pieces of fabric. These segments are fixed under the armrests, on top of the already fixed fabric, first from the outside, and then from the inside of the armrest. After that, the fabric is neatly folded and fixed with a stapler from the front of the side backs, and is closed on top with a wooden decorative overlay, which, like all accessories, can be purchased at a specialized store. It remains only to screw the side backs to the lower box through the previously drilled holes. This process is carried out from the inside of the frame structure.
	When unfolded, the finished sofa-book looks as shown in this illustration.

Prices for corner sofas

corner sofas

Find out some of the available options from our new article on our portal.

The third option is a sofa for giving from an old bath

Design features and required materials

An old bath after a major overhaul often becomes an unnecessary burden. Usually it is taken to a landfill or to a summer cottage and left to rot in the far corner of the site. At best, it heats water for watering especially whimsical plants. At the same time, a lot of money is spent on the purchase of garden furniture. At the same time, not many people know that from a bath that has served its main role for the allotted time, it may well turn out to be a comfortable and original sofa that fits perfectly into the landscape design of the territory and will last for very many years.

Such an unusual piece of furniture can be installed outdoors, on the terrace, in the gazebo or. With proper design, such a sofa and the interior of a country house will not spoil.

In order to make such a sofa, both a cast-iron and a steel bath are suitable. Of course, it is more difficult to work with cast iron, and it is also not easy to move such a piece of furniture from place to place. But with a steel bath, no special problems are foreseen. Sofas made from old bathtubs will last for many years if you work on them well. Moreover, what design and color to choose for the sofa - the master is determined by himself. The most important thing in the manufacturing process is preparing the base for applying paint, cutting out the excess part and processing the edges after trimming them.

Check out an unusual, inexpensive and very practical independent production, in a new article on our portal.

Step-by-step instructions for making a sofa from a cast-iron bath

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	In this version, for the manufacture of the sofa, an old cast-iron bathtub with legs-paws is used, which are always the decoration of this accessory, and we will not throw them away. The illustration shows that the enamel coating of the container is in a very unenviable condition. In all likelihood, she had lain in an unheated shed for more than one year, or even lay near the fence in the open.
	Cracked enamel and the resulting corrosion stains will definitely have to be removed from the surface of the bath. Since the cast-iron surface is not perfectly smooth, unlike a steel bath, you will have to work hard on it to remove all old dirt, cracked enamel residues, scale pieces from it and give it an aesthetic appearance.
	The legs were fastened to this model with the help of bolts, which, during the operation of the bath and waiting for its “renaissance” in the form of the original sofa, have become very rusty, and one can hardly hope that they will be unscrewed without the use of special tools. Therefore, in order not to complicate the process and not to spoil the thread, a composition (for example, WD-40) is sprayed onto the mount, which helps soften the rust. Then this area is left for some time, indicated on the cylinder by the manufacturer. After this time, the nuts from the bolts should be twisted without difficulty. Other threaded parts should be treated with the same tool, which must be removed before cleaning and painting the container.
	Before moving on to cleaning the surface, markings are made along which the front of the bath will be cut out. In this case, a cutout was already made in one of the edges of the bathtub, apparently, this had to be resorted to for conducting water pipes when installing the mixer. So that this man-made flaw does not spoil the entire appearance of the structure being created, the cutout is marked from this side.
	To mark the bath, a square and a dark marker are used, which will be clearly visible on a light surface. To begin with, the lower part of the cut is determined - for this, a square is attached to the bath, and a perpendicular line is drawn, along which it will be easier to navigate, making the slope at a greater or lesser angle.
	Further, the exact lines are outlined along which the cutout will be made on one and the other side of the container. Since the bathtub has a curved surface, and the cutouts must be in harmony with each other, repeating the shape of the container, it is possible to measure the required distance from the vertical line of a right angle using a tape measure or square, first in height and then to the side. One way or another, the lines on both sides will be located at different angles.
	Having determined the exact outer line, it must be repeated on the inner surface of the container, since when cutting, work will be done both from the outside and from the inside of the bath. From the inside of a curved surface, it is quite difficult to determine a right angle, so the transfer of the line will have to be done, so to speak, by eye. However, special accuracy is not required from the master here - the curvature of the lines is still necessary, and everything depends to a greater extent on the subsequent processing of the cut edge.
	The second side of the container, where the drain holes are located, is not so curved - it is closer to a right angle. But it is impossible to make a cutout exactly rectangular, otherwise the visual balance of the structure will be lost. Therefore, based on a vertical straight line, and taking into account the cutout angle that was found for the other side, the slope for the second side of the container is also determined. When the optimal slope option is found, the lower points of the lines of the two sides are connected by a horizontal line.
	Now the grinder comes into operation with a metal disc installed on it. There are no problems with steel, but the task of cutting cast iron is a very difficult task, one might say - delicate. It is impossible to praise the master who demonstrates cutting in these illustrations - it is imperative to fix a protective casing on the tool, since it is not known how such a heavy and fragile metal as cast iron will behave. It happens that when cutting it, the circle begins to tear, and this is very dangerous. The casing, of course, somewhat closes the view, so the cut must be done very carefully. Cast iron is cut very carefully, while it is necessary to protect the face by wearing a special mask, as the disk may be damaged or part of the metal being cut may fly off. There is no need to hurry, since it is easy during this process to overheat the grinder and completely render it unusable. So it is better to cut in small sections, 100 - 150 mm each, allowing the tool to rest and cool. First, a cut line is drawn from the inside, on the curved sides of the bath. Further, the cut is made from the outside of the container along the line drawn earlier.
	It is very difficult to cut high-quality bath enamel if the cut is made from the inside. So the work is best done for the most part from the outer surface of the bath. If you have to cut some area exactly along the enamel, then it is better to first install a diamond wheel and carefully clean the enamel along the cut line with it. And then proceed to work with a cutting wheel for metal. Having cut out one side of the bathtub, starting from the upper side, go to its second side, to the drawn lower horizontal line.
	Now it remains to make a horizontal cut, and the first, perhaps the most difficult and dangerous stage of work, will be completed. For convenience, the bath is laid on its side, and then, if necessary, props are installed under it, since when cut, it must stand very stable on the surface. Basically, this applies to steel baths, since they have less weight, while the cast-iron version usually fits snugly to the surface under its own weight.
	This is how the bathtub will look like, from which the fragment, which is unnecessary in this case, is cut out. Now, you can move on to a less complicated, but very dirty operation.
	Next, there is a mandatory process of leveling and grinding the cut, since the edge must be even and smooth, otherwise you can seriously injure yourself about its notches. The work is carried out with the same grinder. First, a cutting disc for metal is installed on it, with which the remaining metal burrs are cut off.
	Then, the edge is processed with a grinding disc. The cut end and its side parts are polished. If the sofa is made from a steel bath, its cut edge can be beaded down a little, since the metal is thin, and its cut will remain sharp even after grinding.
	Next, the outer surface of the bath is cleaned with a metal brush mounted on a grinder, and then with an emery disc. The dust formed on its surface is collected by a vacuum cleaner. After that, the outer side of the container is covered with a primer composition intended for processing metal products. The primer layer is applied carefully with a soft brush, as the substance must get into all the pores of the cast iron surface. The soil should dry well, after which the surface is again cleaned with an emery disc with a medium grain. Dust after cleaning is also collected by a vacuum cleaner. You can immediately thoroughly clean and prime the previously removed bath legs, as shown in the illustration.
	They proceed to the next operation - the first layer of paint of the selected color is applied to the outer surface of the bath. Paint must be chosen for external work, intended for metal. It will prevent the appearance and spread of foci of corrosion under the influence of the external environment.
	After applying the paint, the smudges formed on the surface of the bath must be collected with a soft cloth, leveling the paint layer with it. The napkin is applied to the desired areas of the surface and pressed against the metal, collecting excess paint.
	When the paint dries, another layer is applied on top of it, which will make the outer surface of the bath (that is, sorry, the sofa) smoother, which will reduce the risk of dust and dirt particles being trapped on it. This is especially important if the sofa is planned to be installed outdoors.
	The legs of the bathtub and their fastenings must also be well cleaned of rust - their processing, as we have already seen, is usually carried out at the stage of priming the bathtub. Cleaning, however, will have to be done manually. Then all parts are treated with a primer, dried, cleaned and painted, it is possible in a color that contrasts with the rest of the surface of the bath. After that, the legs are fixed on the bath using a threaded connection. If possible or necessary, fasteners are replaced with new ones.
	Now they move on to work on the inner surface of the trimmed bath. The first step is to repair the chips that formed along the edge when cutting the metal. For this purpose, an epoxy or polyurethane two-component putty is well suited, which is applied along the inner edge of the bath with a spatula. The putty is leveled and left to dry completely.
	When the putty dries, the area where it was applied must be well cleaned and then sanded using, for example, an eccentric sander with emery nozzles of various grits. If there is no such tool, then you will have to work manually - with sandpaper.
	Further, the entire inner surface after cleaning is covered with a primer and left to dry. It is very important to treat the holes that are in any bath well, as corrosive processes can begin to spread from them. In order to prevent the primer, and then the paint, from getting on the outside of the container, paper is fixed on all edges of the masking tape, which is removed only after all the work is completed.
	When the primer is completely dry, all surfaces are cleaned with an eccentric sander with an emery nozzle. The primer should be as if rubbed into the cast iron surface.
	Further, the inner surface is covered with enamel on metal. It is best sprayed with a spray gun, but can also be applied with a brush. If the staining will be carried out manually, then the paint should be slightly diluted with a solvent and applied, taking a small amount of the coloring composition onto the brush. Only in this case the paint layer will be even. Some craftsmen apply the paint with a sponge that is dipped in the paint and then pressed against the surface. This process is quite lengthy, but with the help of a similar technique, original stains with color transitions can be reproduced on the surface. In addition, the inside of the bathroom will acquire a pleasant roughness.
	Now it is worth considering the manufacture of a mattress that will be laid on the bottom of the sofa. All such soft parts can be made both before and after painting and drying the container. But in order for the mattress to fit perfectly on the bottom of the bath, you need to measure it on the spot, that is, lay a rectangular sheet of foam rubber cut to size, and then round its corners in accordance with the shape of the bottom of the sofa. For this work, you can use a sharp clerical knife and scissors.
	The cut foam rubber is laid on the fabric from which the cover will be made. On the fabric, the foam rubber is outlined with a marker, and when cutting the material, 10 mm per seam is taken into account, that is, 10 mm recede from the line left on the fabric by the marker. You will need two such parts, and in addition to them, you will need a strip of the same or another material equal to the thickness of the mattress plus 10 mm on each of its sides.
	You also need to cut two ribbons 30 mm wide and a length that is equal to the edge of the mattress, plus 20 mm for the seam. In addition, you will need to prepare a cord that will be sewn into the tape - it is necessary to maintain the shape of the mattress. The tape is bent in half, a cord is inserted into it and fixed with sewing pins, after which the tape is sewn along the fastening line on a typewriter.
	Further, the resulting edges are fixed on each main fabric part of the future cover, with the same pins and stitched to them on a typewriter, after which the pins are removed. After that, the parts are combined with the front side inward. Then, first, a side tape is pinned to one part from the wrong side so that the edge of the piping with a cord sewn into it is on the front side. Then, the combined parts are sewn on a typewriter. Further, the second side of the tape is pinned to the second part of the cover and also sewn, but only from three sides. The fourth side will be sewn by hand after the cover is put on the foam.
	The finished mattress should fit perfectly into the bottom of the sofa made from the bathtub.
	If desired, the back of the bathtub can also be equipped with a soft support cushion by gluing it with polyurethane or epoxy glue. If the goal is to get a sofa with a completely soft inner surface, then it is possible to sew a removable insert from foam rubber and fabric, which will completely cover the entire structure from the inside. Here already - the widest scope for creativity.

It remains only to note that if you turn on your imagination, then from the bath you can make not only a sofa, but also an armchair, table and other furniture accessories.

Prices for popular sofas

inexpensive sofa

Read interesting information about new life for old things in a new article -

Now that you have studied the detailed instructions for making three different types of sofas, you can decide on the choice of the desired model in accordance with the planned installation site and the intended functionality of this piece of furniture.

And at the end of the publication - a demonstration of the manufacturing process of another original and relatively simple sofa model.

Video: Self-made original sofa

When choosing a sofa for their apartment, people often face the problem of the lack of models with a color or finish that suits their interior, or the required dimensions. One solution to this problem is to make a sofa with your own hands. With this approach, it becomes possible to fully realize your imagination and creative inclinations. In this article, we'll take a look at how you can make a simple sofa out of pallets and wood planks for your kitchen, balcony, or even living room.

How to make a sofa with your own hands at home

Stylish and modern furniture does not have to cost a lot of money and be made from expensive materials. For a real owner who has the necessary set of tools and skills to work with it, it will not be difficult to create a sofa with your own hands at home. This guarantees the quality of the assembly and the materials used in the work, and will also save a significant amount of money on buying new furniture in the store. Even made from old pallets or ordinary pine boards, this main element of any interior will attract the eye and delight the owners for many years.

So, what do we need to make a sofa? Let's look at the lists of the necessary tools and materials.

Required tools:

• Electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
• Screwdriver or screwdriver;
• Roulette;
• Stationery knife for cutting foam rubber;
• Fabric scissors;
• Stapler for attaching upholstery elements.

At the initial stage of work, it is necessary to make a drawing or sketch of the sofa, clearly determine the layout and overall dimensions. After creating the drawing, the required amount of materials is calculated.

Materials to be used:

• Bar with a section of 50 × 50 mm;
• Any sheet material;
• Furniture foam rubber;
• Furniture synthetic winterizer for the back;
• Upholstery fabric;
• Thread for connecting fabric;
• Joiner's glue;
• self-tapping screws;
• Pencil.

When making a sofa with your own hands, you can also use any suitable materials that are left after the repair or construction of the cottage. It can be boards, timber, plywood or MDF sheets, necessary to give additional rigidity to the structure. Missing material must be purchased.

How to make a sofa: step 1. Making a frame with your own hands

The basis of any sofa or bed is a frame that bears all the load. In order for the furniture to serve for a long time, you need to responsibly take its assembly. The frame of the sofa is made of durable boards (ideally solid wood, or high-quality and thick plywood), which are fastened with self-tapping screws. To give additional strength, you can use metal corners and carpentry glue, which are smeared with the joints of the wooden parts of the frame. After creating a wooden frame, it is sheathed with sheet material. Those parts of the frame that will not be sheathed with fabric should be treated with sandpaper and covered with stain, paint or furniture varnish.

How to make a sofa: step 2. Create a comfortable back

When you create a sofa with your own hands for a kitchen or a balcony, you can get by with sewing thick pillows under your back. A distinctive feature of the sofas in the living room is the obligatory presence of a back, which allows you to comfortably spend your free hours on the sofa.

Depending on the chosen design of the sofa, you need to decide on a comfortable angle of inclination of the back, and then firmly fix it. An interesting idea for creating a sofa back is presented to you in the following photo.

Step 3: upholstery, seats and sofa cushions

When making a sofa with your own hands, the easiest solution is to buy ready-made seats of the right size. But if you have a desire and a sewing machine, it will be easy to sew them yourself. For the seats, it is necessary to cut out pieces of the appropriate size from the foam rubber, wrap them in a soft material like synthetic winterizer, and then sheathe them with the purchased fabric. An excellent solution would be to sew zippers into the pillows, which will allow you to conveniently remove the covers for washing in the future.

A more difficult undertaking will be the creation of a full-fledged upholstery. You can find step-by-step instructions with photos in our article. Restoration of upholstered furniture: upholstery or upholstery replacement.

Creating a sofa with your own hands is a great opportunity to show your skills as a craftsman and create a stylish piece of furniture. We invite you to enjoy photos of homemade sofas from different materials for inspiration.

The original sofa from pallets do it yourself

One of the most popular ideas for today is to create a sofa from pallets with your own hands. These pallets are also called pallets. They are inexpensive and easy to get at any hardware store. Pallets consist of several boards, which are very conveniently disassembled and then can be reassembled into any design convenient for you. It remains only to paint them in the desired color and make sofa cushions. Examples of homemade sofas from pallets, see the photo below:

Important: if you decide to make a sofa out of pallets, then when buying them, you need to pay attention to the condition of the wood - there should be no damage on it, obvious signs of dryness and old age. In any case, to create a high-quality sofa with your own hands, pallets should be sanded and a protective coating should be applied, for example, using a special impregnation for wood or varnish. Euro pallets have standard dimensions of 800×1200 mm, so you can easily calculate the required frame size.

How to make a corner sofa in the kitchen

A great idea for creating a sofa for the kitchen with your own hands are reclining seats that allow you to equip storage for kitchen items inside and at the same time simplify the process of making a sofa. The bottom and side walls of the box will provide strength and additional stability to the structure.

Comfortable do-it-yourself sofa: instruction with photo updated: May 22, 2017 by: Andrey Zinchenko

Leafing through colorful illustrations with exquisite living room furniture, you will undoubtedly stop your eyes at the photo of a small, uncomplicated sofa, consisting of a wooden frame and a mattress. The practicality and convenience of such a sofa captivates, but the price stops. Perhaps an excellent alternative to such a waste would be to make a simple sofa with your own hands.

DIY sofa: advantages

The basis of a simple sofa is a reliable frame of several transverse and guide boards. Such a sofa is notable for the fact that it can be made independently without any difficulties from the simplest materials available to everyone. All you need to make a sofa with your own hands is the development of a drawing - a diagram, an accurate calculation of the necessary materials, elementary construction tools (a square ruler, a drill or a screwdriver, a hammer, a jigsaw and a furniture stapler), accuracy, patience and diligence.

For a modern apartment, a simple do-it-yourself sofa will look a little rough, and it doesn’t have such a purpose. However, for a country house or summer cottage - this is an excellent option that will cost you less effort and cost.

In favor of making a sofa with your own hands, you can make several arguments:

• Significant money savings. A simple do-it-yourself sofa will cost you several times cheaper than bought in a furniture store. However, do not forget a simple truth: savings should not be at the expense of quality!
• Being engaged in the manufacture of a sofa, you yourself control the quality and are responsible for the finished furniture! You do not have to worry about unscrupulous joining of beams, poor-quality consumables, and shortcomings and defects in work.
• By choosing high-quality wood and modern fittings, you can give the sofa a certain “professional” feeling. Choose wood without knots, dark areas and rot, follow the accuracy of the assembly - it will help give the finished furniture a special gloss of a homemade sofa.

Use original finishes and reliable, high-quality upholstery materials.

• When making a sofa with your own hands, design - you develop the project yourself, and the finished design will be made in accordance with your needs and dimensions.
• In the future, you can easily reupholster the sofa, again significantly reducing your financial costs.
• Assembling a sofa with your own hands, you will get satisfaction from participating in the creative process, conducting a master class and incomparable pride in the results of your work.

DIY sofa: master class

All parts of the frame of a simple sofa should be made and assembled in the following sequence:

1. back,
2. Front Panel,
3. seat,
4. armrests.

And finally, the base is mounted on the finished frame.

So, how to make a sofa with your own hands?

First you need to prepare boards of suitable sizes.

After you have made all the measurements with accuracy, you need to carefully saw off. Then marks are made on the parts and grooves are made in the areas intended for this and holes are drilled for the stopper on the base frame in order to screw the fixing screws into the lower horizontal bar of the frame, while preventing the stopper from cracking.

Attention: when preparing parts and blanks, you should pay attention to the "drawing" of the tree. Connections must be made in such a way that the annual rings of wood with their convex sides look at each other.

After completing the assembly, all surfaces of the boards must be carefully sanded. The final work of this stage will be surface treatment with colored glaze, special furniture wax or stain with further matting.

Of course, the dimensions of a simple sofa are set individually. However, it should be noted that the parameters of the base of the sofa will set the dimensions of the finished structure.

Making a sofa with your own hands, you can make the back at an angle. The skeleton can consist, for example, of 2 horizontal and 4 vertical boards. The back height can be adjusted according to your height and personal preference. On the back of the skeleton, the plywood is completely superimposed, and from the side on which the back of the seated person will rest, only on the open area. The lower part will be closed with a seat.

Upholstered seating for a simple do-it-yourself sofa

The base material for creating the seat is foam rubber with a density of at least 35 kg/m3, which can be laid in two layers. The base is covered with a protective non-woven fabric, which minimizes possible friction between the decorative cover and the base of the sofa, as well as prevents it from sticking to the base, wrinkling and slipping.

The manufacturing technology of the backrest is similar with only one difference - foam rubber of smaller thickness can be used as a consumable material, since the level of load on the back is much less than the load on the base of the sofa. It is recommended to use a strong edging cord for stitching the decorative coating. Zippers or Velcro tapes can be placed along the back bottom edges.

It should be noted that some home craftsmen are successful in making furniture, but upholstery work can be difficult. In this case, specialized organizations will come to the rescue, you just need to indicate the dimensions and provide them with consumables.

The top layer of soft seats is fastened with Velcro, which provide a strong connection under normal load and shear.

Sofa ready!

DIY sofa: video on youtube

How to make a sofa with your own hands video

Everyone knows that upholstered furniture is necessary in every home. But there are people who cannot find a quality option for themselves from the store and decide to start making their own. The most basic step to this work is that you yourself will accurately make a model of the size that your living space allows.

Many people wonder what is a modular sofa? It is not difficult to answer, because this is a standard corner sofa known to all of us in its various representations. It would seem that it would be very difficult to assemble it on your own. But do not despair, even a beginner can cope with the task, the main thing is to have a desire.

It is possible to create an original design

It is worth noting that a self-made sofa immediately eliminates such shortcomings as:

• wrong size;
• irregular building forms;
• inharmonious to the interior color design and decoration.

You can create semi-circular sofas or with an acute angle, it all depends on your imagination. It is important that in the end you get the original model, which will be no worse than the store version, but at the same time it will cost several times cheaper.

Preparation for work

Before you start work and prepare all the necessary material, you need to prepare detailed drawings and diagrams. This stage will help to avoid mistakes in the work, in addition, you can correctly purchase all the necessary materials, avoiding unnecessary costs. Dimensions can be taken on the Internet, but later change them to suit your room.

1 2 3

Then, in the hardware store, you should purchase the following materials for work:

• plywood bars, chipboard;
• furniture legs and lifting mechanisms;
• foam rubber, synthetic winterizer, pillow filler;
• upholstery for furniture;
• jigsaw, drill, screwdriver;
• construction stapler with staples;
• screws and nails;
• wood glue and PVA glue.

In order for a do-it-yourself modular sofa to turn out no worse than the store version, you need to cut out beautiful armrests. If you do not have experience in carpentry, then you should order a cutting from a professional who, according to the drawings, will make perfectly even models.

Sofa frame assembly

First you need to assemble the armrests. It would seem that the smallest details, but they require close attention during assembly. Since they should turn out perfectly even and symmetrical, you must clearly follow the instructions. Experts put a special bar between the sides of the armrest, which controls their size. All parts are connected using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

Next, you should assemble the frame of the sofa. You need to start with two bars of the same distance and thickness and connect them to each other with longitudinal bars. You need to connect it qualitatively and firmly, so that in the future the sofa does not loosen up and you do not have to repeat the procedure. Next, you should attach to the base of the board on which the back of the product will be held.

Fabrication of the frame Closing the oriented strand board

For additional strengthening, you can use wood glue.

After the actions taken, the resulting structure is upholstered with plywood sheets, forming a uniform box in which personal items or bedding can subsequently be stored. As soon as the frame is ready, immediately screw the legs to the product, otherwise it will be much more difficult to do it later.

Assembly of the rest of the parts

The backrest for the sofa is also assembled separately from the frame, in full accordance with the drawings.

The back is connected almost at the end

The retractable part is assembled, but at the moment it remains aside, since it has not yet been sheathed with material and a soft layer. Everything is fastened to self-tapping screws, and then interconnected in the following order:

• back to frame;
• armrests;
• retractable part.

Sheathing and decoration

How to make a sofa soft and comfortable? This is much easier than assembling the frame and installing each element together. Decorating, as the final stage, brings more positive emotions, as the result actually becomes visible. At the same time, this stage is very important, because the appearance of new hand-made furniture will depend on how carefully you finish the work.

It is better to start with the armrests, since it is they that have to be aligned and given exquisite curves. The foam pads do an excellent job of making the armrests very comfortable and soft. We cover the seat with the same foam rubber. It should be carefully fixed with glue, otherwise she will walk while using the sofa for its intended purpose. When all the soft parts are wrapped with foam rubber, you can start covering the furniture with fabric upholstery.

The original design of the armrests of the sofa

The fabric should be chosen one that can serve you for a long time, without unexpected damage. Also, be sure to consider how often you will need to clean your sofa. If there are small children or animals in the house, you should upholster the furniture with breathable fabric, which makes it easy to get rid of dirt. Well, do not forget about the interior of the room for which the furniture is made. The upholstery must match it in order to create additional comfort.