Wooden floors for the bath were used for a long time. And today, despite the presence of a large number of new technologies, this option is considered to be optimal. We will look at several decisions of the arrangement of floors, we will tell about the technology of their construction, advantages and "problem" sides.

Lags for soil
We make wooden floors

Under the lags of the floor only soil
Floor lags in Siruba

It is understood that under the floor there is nothing but soil. The lags themselves, of course, on the soil or various subfers never fall, they need to install them on concrete or brick columns.

Lugi on brick columns
Blocks from blocks for lag

The distance between the columns is calculated taking into account the thickness of the lag, the genital boards and the maximum load on the floor. During the construction of a bath in most cases, no one does such accurate calculations, but they are not needed. Middle universal values \u200b\u200bare selected, in our case we choose the thickness of the genital boards of 30 mm and lags 50 × 100 mm.

In this embodiment, the distance between the lags should be within 1.5 meters, the distance between the columns under each lag within 1.6 ÷ 1.8 meters. Multiple centimeters in one way or another way are not made, shift the columns with the specific size of the room.

The main thing - the columns across the area should be placed evenly.

Step Lag Depending on the thickness of the genital boards
Sizes of lag at step 70 centimeters

How are the floors with lags on the soil?

Step 1. Make the measurement measurements, decide on the floor level. Construction documentation has its own characteristics. One of them is a zero mark concerns not land, as some think, and the level of the floor. All that above the floor is denoted with the "+" sign, all that below the floor level is indicated with the "-" sign. This means that the location of the lag should be - 30 mm (below the thickness of the board). Another note on the documentation. The accuracy in millimeters is indicated in mechanical engineering, in construction, in most cases are indicated in centimeters. We will gradually move to the standard designations of the size of construction objects, while we use the usual, but not entirely correct notation.

Supporting columns for lag on the soil - scheme
Design of wooden floors

Step 2. Taking into account the distances, you will preliminarily calculate the installation sites of the columns and their number. The depth of the columns is approximately 20 ÷ 25 centimeters.

Make marking of columns. On the opposite walls of the room with a laser or hydroeer, we bulk the zero label (level of the upper surface of the genital board). He takes it 30 millimeters (the thickness of the boards) and 100 mm (the thickness of the lags). The level of the upper surface of the column is -13 centimeters. On the walls of the bath, make another label at this height.

On the rope at the right distances, dig small square holes of such sizes, the stem depth is enough to do in one spade bayonet. Conduct the bottom, remove the landpowed ground.

It is extremely desirable to pour a sand pillow with a thickness of 10 ÷ 15 centimeters to compensate for the swelling of soils during freezing / defrosting. At the bottom of each hole, put a layer of sand and confuse it. There is a desire to fill the holes - make a concrete solution in proportions 1 part of cement, 2 parts of sand and 3 parts of rubble. During the fill, make sure that the surface is smooth and horizontal.

Step 3. Prepare all materials. For columns there are several options: in the ground pour concrete or use concrete blocks. Above the Earth can be used red brick or blocks, between the concrete base and brick necessarily make waterproofing rubberoid. Better brick, its small size facilitates work on the output of columns to one level of the horizon. The blocks have to cut, it is long, the cut is irregular.

Column supporting brick - appearance

Step 4. Making columns. The sizes of columns are made under the brick, the standard length of bricks of 25 centimeters, take two bricks. This means that the side of the square of the column will be 25 centimeters.

Are there several concrete blocks in stock? Excellent, work will go faster and easier, lay the columns of them.

Concrete froze - you can put bricks. The thickness of the standard brick is only 6.5 centimeters, such dimensions will allow us to accurately set the surface of the columns to the necessary height due to changes in the thickness of the solution. You need to stretch new ropes, pull them on the tag height marks. Check the position of the bricks by the level, the columns should be located in a vertical position. With the help of cement-sandy solution, the surface of all columns on the thread is accurately poning.

Step 5. Lagges are stacked along the rubberoid, it is better to put two layers of waterproof.

The length of the lag must be 3 ÷ 4 centimeters shorter the length of the room, it is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the tree. Lags must be fixed to the walls with a moving way to exclude their overturning to the side, but allow a little to move in the longitudinal direction. It is better to do with the help of factory standard metal compounds, such are used during the arrangement of the floating rafting system. If there is no possibility to purchase such connections - not a problem, make them yourself. To do this, on one side of the metal corner of the opening, you need to be made oblong. This side will be fastened with self-drawing to lags, selflessness do not tighten with great effort, the lag should be able to slide. The second side of the metal corner is fixed to the wall of the bath.

Initially, you need to fix two opposite lags, pull the ropes between them and all the rest to put on it. If problems with the level - use different lining. The scatter at an altitude of up to two millimeters can be allowed, these irregularities are eliminated by finishing floor coating finishes.

Step 6. Floating boards. Check the quality of the boards, the materials with visible marriage signs are better not to use. If the boards as a result of the violation of the production technology have a curved side surface - you need to purchase ready-made or make independently special devices for their tightening.

To this end, ordinary metal brackets and wooden wedges can be used. Prepare several wedges at once with different angle of slope. Metal brackets are driven into lags, an unnecessary board is placed between them, and the wedges are driven between the germ and it. Driving force should ensure surface alignment. The boards are fixed to lags in such a clamping position, after being sublinking all the nails of the wedges are removed and a new floorboard is inserted.

BowRench - Floor Board Tool

Do not forget about the wall to leave a clearance of 1 ÷ 2 centimeter width to compensate for linear extensions, the gap is then closed by a plinth. For flooring, you can use both ordinary and t-shirts. If all operations were performed correctly and the boards do not have abnormalities in thickness - the floor is ready for finishing painting or varnishing. If there is a noticeable difference in the height of individual boards, you will have to align them with a special hand-made fugamine.

To improve the quality of the coating, the surface of the floor can be seized.

Step 7. On the perimeter of the room, the plinth is ready to use the floor.

Fastening wooden plinths

There are two more nuances of the furniture of floors in the steam room. The technology of laying boards changes slightly taking into account how water will be merged. If the gravity is in the gap - boards do not attract tightly, leave the gap between them in several millimeters.

If water goes into a drainage system - you need to make a hole. The best option is to have an electric jig. Drill in the "starting" hole in a drill in the board, insert the jigsaw knife into it and carefully cut the hole of the desired size. No jigsaw - use the chisel and chisels. Works are slightly complicated, but it is not scary. Small irregularities made in this way holes will close with a decorative drain grid.

Lugi over concrete screed

A more complex and expensive option to arrange floors. Lags are put on a flat concrete screed, the floors can withstand significant loads.

Step 1. Make the laying of the floor laying, set the labels on the wall. It is necessary to note both the position of the lag and the position of each cement base layer.

Step 2. Align the surface of the soil, remove the upper fertile layer. It is necessary to pour out the base from sand or gravel, the base will be found in special vibration mechanism or manually.

Example of a sandy pillow

Step 3. Prepare a concrete solution. During the manufacture of concrete, we recommend on one part of the cement to give two parts of the sand and three parts of the rubble. Such a recipe for concrete can be considered universal, it is suitable for the manufacture of most architectural structures of buildings using concrete.

Step 4. Make a filling of a concrete base. You need to pour under beacons.

For beacons you can use purchased metal or ordinary wooden rails. Reiki can not be pulled out of the solution, they do not affect the final operational characteristics. Level Check the plane of concrete. If there are significant deviations - make a cement-sandy mortar above. Make the screed for all the rules, do not allow irregularities and deviations horizontally.

Prices for cement-sand mix

cement-sand mixture

Video - installation of beacons under the tie

Video - screed for beacons

Step 5. Between the concrete base and wooden lags to put waterproofing.

If you do not plan to warm the floor, then you can take 30 × 50 mm bars as a lag and put their plastics. The large area of \u200b\u200bthe lag fully eliminates their deflection, and the thickness is enough for solid fixation of the boards. Dina Lag must take into account linear extensions due to the change in the relative humidity of wooden structures.

Video - how to put lags on concrete floor

Step 6. The boards are put in the same way as we described above on the example of their laying on lags on the soil.

In cases of building a bath, this method of sexual coatings is infrequent. Such floors can only be done in the rest room, for a steam or shower method is not suitable. On the plywood, the floor of laminate or soft floor coatings are spilled. The thickness of plywood is determined by common loads, but in any case it should be more than one centimeter. Depending on the thickness of plywood, the step is regulated. Experienced builders advise lags to mount them at a distance of no more than 50 centimeters.

Laying Plywood Lagas

Plywood must be moisture resistant, ordinary cheap varieties are unsuitable.

Important. During the markup of the placement of the lag, taking into account the size of plywood sheets.

The fact is that under all the joints must be lags. It is better to pre-draw on paper the layout of plywood sheets on paper, during calculations should be taken into account both the longitudinal and transverse joints. Fix the Paneur to lags can be carnations or self-drawing.

And, moreover, it has good heat-shield characteristics, which allows not to use additional insulation for floors. Do not forget the joints of the sheets of technical traffic jams to glue the scotch. Otherwise, on time, they will shift, which complicates the laying of the laminate and makes the work more "nervous".

Prices for plywood sheets

plywood sheets

Methods of insulation floors for lags in the bath

Floor insulation on lags - scheme

For the insulation of pilaf you can use two types of insulation. None of them is the perfect option. Why?

Let's start with mineral wool.

It has high performance on many operational performance: perfectly holds heat, it is easy to work with it, the thermal insulation layer does not have slots. But there are wool and disadvantage - the material quickly absorbs moisture and gives it for a very long time. Long stay of wooden elements with direct contact with a wet wool significantly speeds up the appearance of rot and fungi. Wooden structures need to impregnate with antiseptics, use mechanical methods of vapor and water protection. Such construction measures are quite expensive.

The second insulation is plate foam plates.

This material does not absorb moisture. The fact that there is no comments on ecology, for premises in the bath is not critical, no one is going to live in them. "RUBIT" Polyfoam is not environmental friendliness and physical indicators, it "lies" rodents.

None of the manufacturers warns that this material for unknown reasons really like mice, they nibble with great pleasure and at high speed. Fully getting rid of rodents in the country area still failed. We hope that this information will help you take the optimal solution during the selection of float insulation material.

How to insulate floors on lagas mineral wool

You can take both rolled and pressed material. The only remark - if you take a pressed mineral wool, then the size of the sheets should be taken into account during the location of the lag.

To the side planes of the lag, we live thin rails or bars, they will lie with a draft floor. For its manufacture, you can take unedged boards, segments of lumber, plywood remnants or OSP sheets. Mineral Wat must be reliably protected from the penetration of moisture from the bottom, the land under the bath will always have increased humidity rates.

For steam protection, you can take any of the existing materials, they all have excellent performance.

Win mineral wool on the draft floor carefully, do not leave slots and skips. Mineral wool thickness can not be greater than the height of the lag.

The upper surface of the insulation must be covered with waterproof and only after that begin to engage in finishing sex.

One of the floor insulation options. The film is fastened with brackets over basalt minvati

If you can replace mineral wool with glass, immediately use such a chance. Glasswater is much cheaper than the "branded" material, and in its physical and operational properties it is not inferior to her.

Glasswater - insulation material

One of the disadvantages of glass gambled is considered to be "stabbing". This is not a problem, work in workers canvas mittens and nothing will "bite". To your information - fashionable mineral wool is made from the mining basalt, and this is the same glass, only with various impurities. Mineral wool "does not bite" only because the diameter of glass fibers is much smaller, they are very easy to break and cannot damage the skin coatings. But the shallow glass dust from it is much greater, and this is harmful to the lungs.

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

In this version, work is a bit simplified and needed. The draft floor is made in a similar way, as in the case of insulation of mineral wool. But the vapor and water protection can not be done, it can significantly reduce the cost of manufacturing work. The problem with rodents will have to be solved independently. Some are offered on the draft floor to lay a metal galvanized grid with small cells, the second will appear that all the foam of rodents will not spoil. How to do - you will have to decide on your own.

Polyfoam perfectly cuts into a special carpentry knife. During circumcision, make sheets a few millimeters more. The sheet will easily be squeezed, due to this, the density of fitting to lags will increase significantly. With the right plot number of unproductive waste, the material is reduced, the work is performed faster and better.

Prices for foam

styrofoam

Video - How to cut a foam knife

You must be in time to start the construction of floors, they need to be taken into account during the markup of the location of the Lag and laying insulation. We give several practical advice on the installation of engineering communications.

1. All connections need to be made as reliable and very carefully. It concerns both sewer pipes and electrical wiring.

   

2. Electrical cables must be mandatory in plastic or corrugated metal pipes. In fact, we do not advise wiring to put under the floor, much more convenient to make a wiring along the walls. Moreover, they will still be triggered by clapboard or other materials, and under them you can hide all networks without any problems.

   

3. For sewage, you need to provide the most dangerous places from the point of view of clogging. Open pipelines in such places have special technological access, pipes in case of scoring with their help are easily cleaned. Most often, dirt accumulates in the knees and places of compounds. Position them as close to the walls of the room. Moreover, the boards in such places must be parallel to the direction of the pipeline. This will provide an opportunity in case of unpleasant situations to provide access to a problem place after dismantling only one or two boards.

   
   
   

Communication under floor

During the installation of sewer pipelines, it is better to make a stock of throughput, reinforce from clogging. The path of the pipe will be a larger diameter, let their total length increase somewhat. The main thing is to have confidence in the long and reliable work of the entire system.

Video - Installation of rough floors

Video - floors on the ground. How to do it

It is quite easy to perform floor laying on the lags, it is quite simple to know the correct sequence of actions and all the subtleties accompanying this process.

The most common floor arrangement material is a tree.

If the installation is carried out correctly, the boards will serve for a long time, and the cost of them, especially during self-work, will be low.

From above on the floor you can install a laminate or parquet.

Removing the walls of bricks, sooner or later, the need to put the floor arises. In the overwhelming majority of cases, the installation of the lag followed by the flooring of the boards.

Lags are used not only as a material with which it is easy to put the floor or laminate. They are used as rafters, and for the design of the fence.

In addition, often such material is included in the ribbon foundation or prefer the columns of them. There are lags and metal - it is used to welding the fence.

Often there are situations when it is necessary to put lags and boards on various overlaps. For example, when the floors are made of wood, there is no guarantee that the beams will turn out exactly.

Therefore, when laying the floor and boards, a preparatory stage is required. It is difficult to achieve a smooth surface to solve - most often the fastening of the lag occurs to the side parts of the wooden beams.

On a terrace area, you can lay special materials processed for the street without insulation.

The main advantage of such a consolidation is that the laying does not require changes in the height of products and coatings. To ensure the fastening between the materials, use screws.

It is best to choose incomplete products, that is, having a diameter of 6 millimeters.

The use of wooden floor overlap has its own nuances.

It is necessary to handle the wood, it is extremely careful, because it may not withstand installation works in the initial stages.

For example, when trying to install screws, overlapping boards can crack.

That this does not happen, it is better to make small holes in places in the places where screws will be screwed, but a couple of millimeters there are less than their diameter.

If the beams are pre-laid with a big step, then the second layer of lag is needed. It will correctly be located perpendicular to the first one, but a step to take a smaller one.

You can also make a pure layer of thicker boards to correct the situation.

If you need to install on concrete overlap, it is necessary to take into account even more nuances. So, if the floor is done on such a surface, then with any scenario, a layer of waterproofing is needed.

If it is not, then the floor will very quickly begin to cheat, swell from moisture, mold and fungi will appear, and the laminate will rise and swell. Next, you need to lay a layer of insulation.

If necessary, make a layer of noise insulating materials.

When the floor dries, then you can put lags, and it is on them that it is placed in a pure layer, which then you can easily add laminate or other materials that it is easy to make it yourself.

Lagges make from boards that have a length of more than a pair of meters. If the boards are too short, they are placed ends.

The joints in the ranks should shift no more than 50 centimeters relative to each other. Lagas can be labeled, only if the screed is pre-done.

Otherwise, the house will be constantly cold, and the floor can climb or, on the contrary, to suit.

Even if the pouring of the screed does not work, the waterproofing should be accurately carried out with a wooden coating.

If lag is carried out for the fence, then a lot depends on the profile, its height and width.

The construction of the rafter in this case should have a certain step, but the main thing is to calculate how deep and at what distance to dig posts.

Depending on how drumps are support, choose a distance for lag. It should be borne in mind that even for the very short fence, the pitch of the support should be not more than three meters.

We weld the lags using welding, as shown in the video.

Concrete or Earth Foundation: What to do?

What to do people in a typical house or apartment where most often, the foundation is made from concrete? For example, at the stage of construction there is a concrete floor, without any overlaps.

A ribbon foundation may be made or in construction, the pillars preference was given - it does not matter.

Moreover, the concrete foundation is easiest to put lags and subsequent sexual coating, even with their own hands.

Concrete floor must be aligned (for example, to lay the screed) and clean from garbage, dust.

It should be dry if moisture remains, it is removed and dried the coating, the same requirements are put forward for the insulation. It is necessary to make a layer of insulation, but first of all - waterproofing.

Often, the role of thermal insulation is chosen by the usual tight film, which even is used in the house. It is placed right on the concrete of the mustache (about 15 centimeters).

Also carried out by moisture-resistant plywood. It can be fixed both with screws and nails.

Laying plywood to lags, as well as under them - a reliable option to extend the life of their wooden floor.

There are also situations when there is not even a concrete screed, and the laying must be carried out directly to the ground, for example, on a terraced site.

First of all, it is necessary to understand that any soil is not suitable here. Moreover, it is important to remove the layer of dirt, herbs, plants, and so on. You can even remove the earth layer about 10 centimeters.

For the terraced surface, the most important thing is the thickness of the products, they should be as reliable and thick as possible.

Concrete is poured on it about the same layer. Next, the order of action is almost the same as with the laying of a concrete basis.

In some cases, especially if accommodation in the house is permanent, you can make the simplest belt foundation or to give preference to the columns.

Whatever the option is not chosen, you need to put the waterproofing again, to make a screed, wait until the floor dry, and then make the installation of rafters and lag for the floor.

With how to prepare the surface to install, you can find the video.

Selection of steps and other nuances in floor covering

Doing everything with your own hands, many do not pay distance between lags of big attention. You can make a project of the room, calculate the amount of concrete, wood and other products.

It is logical that if the finishing part is very reliable, then the lag laying can be carried out with a big step.

What if the boards are too thin for the floor? Thin is considered to be products that have less than 20 millimeters thick. In this case, a step should be taken equal to 30-40 centimeters.

When the thickness is several centimeters, the distance between the lags can be taken around the meter.

Often in the house take the boards with a thickness of 5 centimeters, and the distance of the step is 80 centimeters.

In whatever house, and whatever the foundation, the fastening of Lag is possible only on a purified, prepared and treated surface surface.

If you want to make enough sound insulation in the house, there will be little high fence (reduced street noise) and thick windows, it is also important to do the soundproofing of the floor.

You can use sand, fiberboard, the remains of wooden products in the form of chips and so on.

Already after laying all the layers with their own hands, including the insulation, and the installation of the lag is extremely important to check whether the floor turned out to be smooth.

After all, otherwise, the floor in the house will be curved, but it will be hard to fix it. Lags allow to align and peashed tape foundation.

It is necessary to just shove the sand under the construction of the rafter. With this process, you can find on the video and perform work with your own hands.

Laminate on a flat surface falls perfectly, not giving Bruus to love.

It is better to prepare all the tools in advance.

You will need:

• level;
• rule;
• lobzik;
• ax;
• perforator;
• drill;
• spanners;
• nails;
• screws;
• the material that will be used as a heater;
• floor lags and board boards.

Also, if we are talking about the design of the fence, then it is necessary to repel from its height. So, for the average fence, a meter or one and a half between the lags and an approximately halfter from the ground is suitable.

If you make a fence for a terrace platform with standard strapping, then the height of the fence itself can be a half-meter. Therefore, it will be right only one lag instead of two rafters.

How to lay lags - step by step

Black flooring is placed only on the material of sound insulation, as well as, observing the step for the rafter. The metallic level is measured by the surface surface - it is easy to spend your own hands.

To attach lags to the bottom surface, if it is made of concrete, use bolts. For all other coatings use dowels.

Also, the distance between the rafter is filled with material for thermal insulation. The insulation is used by foam, mineral wool or basalt cloth.

Stacking starts with corners in the house. The first row using a sheet is mounted to the wall. However, you need a small gap between the surfaces of rafters and walls.

Laying Lag on the foundation Step-by-step instruction looks rather easy, built on a simple principle that the next row is stacked with a displacement of about two lags along the overlap.

On the bottom layer, which will not be visible due to the coating, you can make the boards that are located along the walls, securing with screws from above. After all, then the plinth will close them.

After all lags are installed and aligned, you can put the floor itself. Each of the boards are attached to the lag, and the joints of the material must be in the middle of the rafter.

The entire floor is stacked by a tree or prefer the plates, but this option is chosen much less frequently - it is economically unprofitable.

Fastening wooden lag just like the boards themselves are performed using screws. Only when a metal fence device will correctly choose the bolts.

Stacking work does not end. It is necessary to align the floor and remove roughness. Grinding will help here.

Of course, laminate on the floor can be eliminated without this stage, but then there is a possibility that moisture will be raised from the bottom of the floor.

It will be correct to carefully treat the floor with grinding machine. This is especially important for a terraced board, which will not be covered by a parquet, and on which the laminate will not be treated.

The rafters serve as the basis of the entire roofing structure, and their installation is one of the most responsible tasks in the construction of the house. Future roof frame can be made and installed independently, observing the technological features of the roofs of different configurations. We give the basic rules for the development, calculation and selection of the rafter system, as well as we describe the stages of installation of the roof "skeleton".

Sling System: Rules for calculating and developing

The rafting system is a supporting structure that can resist the impacts of wind, to take on all external loads and evenly distribute them to the internal supports of the house.

When calculating the harrowing design, the following factors take into account:

1. Roof inclination angle:
   • 2.5-10% - flat roof;
   • more than 10% - scope roof.
2. Roof load:
   • permanent - the total weight of all elements of the "Roofing Cake";
   • temporary - wind pressure, burden of snow, weight of people who spend repair work on the roof;
   • force majeure, for example, seismic.

The magnitude of snow loads is calculated on the basis of the climate features of the region by the formula: S \u003d SG * Mwhere SG. - weight of snow per 1 m2, m. -Creative coefficient (depends on the inclination of the roof). The definition of wind load is based on such indicators: the type of terrain, the region's wind load standards, the height of the building.

The coefficients needed standards and settlement formulas are contained in engineering and construction reference books.

When developing a rafter system, it is necessary to calculate the parameters of all components of the structure.

Elements of the rafter design

The rafter system includes a plurality of components that perform a specific function:

Materials for the manufacture of rafters

The rafters most often made from the trees of coniferous rocks (spruce, larch or pine). For the roof improvement, well-leaked wood with humidity level up to 25% is used.

Wooden design has one significant disadvantage - with the time of the rafters may be deformed, therefore elements from metal are added to the carrier system.

On the one hand, the metal adds stiffness with a rapid structure, but on the other, it reduces the life of the wooden parts. On metal platforms and supports, condensate is settled, which leads to the winding and damage to the wood.

Council. When installing the rafter system from metal and wood, you must take care of the fact that the materials do not come into contact with each other. You can use moisture protection or apply film insulation

In industrial construction, metal rafters are used, made of steel rolled (hedavibra, brand, corners, schwellor, etc.). Such a design is more compact than a wooden, but worse holds heat, and therefore requires additional thermal insulation.

Choice of the rafter system: hanging and attachments

There are two types of rafting structures: hanging (spacer) and urban. The selection of the system is determined by the type of roof, overlap material and natural conditions of the region.

Hanging rafal Rely exclusively on the outer walls of the house, intermediate supports are not activated. Slinged legs of a hanging type perform work on compression and bending. The design creates a horizontal sawing force transmitted to the walls. With the help of wooden and metal fumes, you can reduce this load. The tightening is mounted at the base of the rafted.

Hanging rafter system is often used to create an attic or in those situations where the roof spans are 8-12 m, and additional supports are not provided.

Slopils Mounted in houses with intermediate columnar support or an additional bearing wall. The lower edges of the rafters are fixed on the outer walls, and their average parts are on the inner seal or carrier post.

The installation of a single roofing system over several spans should include spacer and rumor rafting farms. In places with intermediate supports, the sleeve rafters are mounted, and where they are not - hanging.

Features of the arrangement of rafters on different roofs

Gable roof

The bartal roof, according to the construction standards, has an angle of inclination to 90 °. The choice of tilt is largely determined by weather conditions. In areas where abundant sediments prevail, it is better to install steep slides, and where strong winds are dominated - gentle roofs, so as to reduce the pressure on the structure.

A common option of a duplex roof is a design with an angle of inclination of 35-45 °. Such parameters specialists call the "golden mean" of the consumption of building materials and the distribution of the load around the perimeter of the building. However, in this case, the attic room will be cold and here it will not be possible to equip the living room.

For a duplex roof, a weed and hanging rafter system is applied.

Tent roof

All roof raids have the same area and the same angle of inclination. The skate run is not here, and the rafters are connected at one point, so the installation of such a structure is quite complicated.

The tent roof is advisable to install when performing two conditions:

• the basis of the construction of a square shape;
• in the center of the structure there is a supporting support or a wall that can be fixed with a rack that supports the stroke legs.

You can create a tent roof without a rack, but the design must be strengthened with additional modules - racks.

Walm roof

The traditional design of the holmic roof assumes the presence of an emergency rafted (diagonal) aimed at the corners of the building. The angle of inclination of such a roof does not exceed 40 °. Diagonal runs are usually done with amplification, since it is precisely on them there is a significant part of the load. Made such elements from a dual board and a solid timber.

The locations of the elements are necessarily supported by a rack that increases the reliability of the structure. The support is located at a distance of the length of the large rafters from the skate. At the site of the frontones of the bartal roof, shortened rafters are installed.

The rafter design of the four-sheet roof may include very long diagonal elements (more than 7 m). In this case, under the rafter, it is necessary to mount a vertical rack, which will rely on the beam of overlapping. As a support, you can use Shprengel - the beam is located in the corner of the roof and fixed on adjacent walls. The shpregel farm is reinforced by pink.

Loaven roof

The broken roofs are usually created for the arrangement of greater attic. Setting the rafted with this version of the roof can be divided into three stages:

1. Installation of the P-shaped structure - supports for runs that hold the rafter legs. Stage base - overlap beams.
2. Sets at least 3-runs: two elements pass along the corners of the P-shaped frame, and one (skate run) is mounted in the center of the attic floor.
3. Installation of trim legs.

Double roof: setting rafters with your own hands

Calculation of the angle of inclination and loads

The calculation of the double roof of course can be made independently, but still it is better to trust the professionals to exclude errors and be confident in the reliability of the design.

When choosing an angle of inclination, it is necessary to consider that:

• the angle of 5-15 ° is not suitable for all roofing materials, so first choose the type of coating, and then make the calculation of the rafter system;
• at the angle of inclination above 45 ° - the material costs for the purchase of components of the "Roofing Pie" are increasing.

The load limits from the exposure to snow fluctuate from 80 to 320 kg / m2. The calculated coefficient for roofs with an inclination angle is less than 25 ° is 1, for a roof with a slope of 25 ° to 60 ° - 0.7. This means that if 1 m2 accounts for 140 kg of snow cover, the load on the roof with a row at an angle of 40 ° will be: 140 * 0.7 \u003d 98 kg / m2.

To calculate the wind load, the coefficient of aerodynamic influence and vibrations of wind pressure is taken. The value of the constant load is determined by the summation of the weight of all components of the "roofing pie" on the m2 (on average 40-50 kg / m2).

Based on the results obtained, we learn the general load on the roof and determine the amount of rafter legs, their size and section.

Montage Maurolat and rafters

The installation of rafters with their own hands begin with Maurelata mounting, which is fixed with anchor bolts to the longitudinal walls.

Further construction is performed in such a sequence:

Setting rafters: video

Methods for connecting elements of a rafter design: video

When laying floors, wood is predominantly used. Despite the fact that wooden structures are characterized by a short service life, environmental safety, affordable cost and low weight make this material very popular among users.

Paul on lags is one of the most popular. This floor is based on wooden bars of a certain size.

And if the walls can still be built from bricks and various blocks, then, deciding to put the floor, the vast majority of owners will choose the wooden structures. How to put the floor with your own hands? Preferably, floor laying is performed on lags. This is a reliable and time-tested option. You can cope with such work on your own.

Laying Lag on overlap from different materials

Before you decide to lay lags for the floor, you need to figure out how this work is performed in the case of different overlaps. So, if the overlap is made of wood, then the beams in most cases will not be completely smooth. Before laying the lag for your floor, you need to prepare work. It is quite difficult to achieve a smooth surface. In most cases, lags are attached to the side parts of the beams.

To install lag for the floor from the CSP, it is necessary to use dry and processed by an antiseptic agent for a cross section of 100x50 mm or 150x100 mm.

The main advantage of fixing the lag for the floor is that the laying does not require the use of lining to change the height of the products. Installation is carried out using incomplete screws. When installing floor installation on lags, screws are used with a diameter of 6 mm. The length of the products should be more lag width at least 2.5 times.

So that the wood does not crack in the fastening process, pre-in the beam and directly the lag should prepare a 2-3 mm hole less than the diameter of the screw used.

If the beams are installed with a big step, laid the 2nd Lag layer. It must be placed perpendicular to the 1st, but with a smaller step. Another good version of the correction of this situation is the use of thicker boards when the fixture layer is appliance.

If you decide to lay the floor to lags, and the overlapping is made of concrete, then consider the following rules:

1. When installing the floor on the concrete overlap, a waterproofing layer is necessarily created. Without it, the floor will be constantly wretched.
2. After waterproofing, the layers of heat and noise-protective materials are stacked.
3. Next, cement or dry screed is made.
4. After complete drying, lags are mounted. In the future, they are placed in the pile layer.

Lagges for the floor should be made from the boards with a length of more than 2 m. In the event that the boards in 2 m do not have enough, join them backwards. When connecting the connection lag for the floor, make sure that the joints in the nearby rows are shifted not less than 50 cm in relation to each other. Laying the lag is performed on the screed. If you make a screed, it is not possible, the base must be at least waterproof.

Mount the lags on the soft thermal insulation material professionals are categorically not recommended. The design will swim, which is why the finishing finish gradually, but inevitably collapses. If, when installing noise and thermal insulation, materials are used to choose the desired width, the lags must be installed in such a way that the used insulating materials are used between them.

If there is no possibility to establish lags for the floor in the width of the insulation, mount the boards at such a distance so that the extreme cells can be completely filled with trimming, i.e. The amount of waste must be minimal.

Laying Lag for Earth Foundation

When installing the lag directly to the ground is first removed by the turde layer, it is embanked to the surface approximately 5 cm of gravel, it is thoroughly tamped and poured with the same concrete of the same thickness. Further work is performed in the same manner as in the case of a conventional concrete base, i.e. Waterproofing material is laid, thermal insulation is placed and the screed is made. In this case, instead of thermal insulation and screed, you can use polystyrene polystyrene.

Previously mentioned a step between lags. It is important to know how to correctly calculate this value. To ensure the optimal distribution of incoming loads on the lags, they need to be laid at the same distance among themselves.

What step to install lags?

The distance between the lags is one of the most important parameters. With its accounting, the calculation of materials is calculated. You can draw the room plan and perform the exact calculation of the required amount of bricks, cement and timber, if the floor is not on the overlap. The distance between the individual elements in this case is determined taking into account the power and strength of the final coating. For example, if the finish part will be able to withstand high loads, lags can be laid at a larger distance.

When installing lags, a ventilation gap remains, which allows you to air the space under the floor.

If the material of the finishing coating is rather thin, the lags are mounted at a distance of 30-40 cm when using boards with a thickness of no more than 24 mm. If there are 5 cm thick boards, the step between the lags can be increased to 1 m. Most often, the houses are stacked with a thickness of 4 cm. The distance between the lags in this case should be 70 cm. Due to the decrease in the step, it is possible to increase the strength of the design as a whole, but this will entail For an additional cost. Only the owner of the house can decide what it is best for him. When installing lag for the floor, it is necessary to remember that the distance between the wall and the element closest to it should not exceed the distance between the lags. Most often, no more than 20-30 cm are retreating from the wall.

What needs to be done before laying?

Before laying lags for the floor, you need to carefully clean the surface, and after that it is good to predict it. Dry all the wooden products and abundantly treat them with an antiseptic agent. You can use special formulations or, for example, bitumen.

Sand, slag, fiberboard or others can be used as a sound insulation material. After the laugs are laid, you need to take a long construction level and check the evenness of their laying. If there is no irregularities, everything is fine. If they are present, they must be fixed. It is possible to do this by adding sand under the lags at the point of irregularity.

While you need the following:

1. Building level.
2. Electrolovka or hacksaw with small teeth.
3. Ax and hammer-nail.
4. Perforator.
5. Screwdriver.
6. Electric drill.
7. Several different wrench keys.
8. Heat insulation material.
9. Nails 5 and 7 cm, screws 3.5, 5 and 7.5 cm, anchor bolts with a diameter of 1 cm.
10. Lags 5x5 cm.
11. Floor board.

Laying lag is performed on noise insulating material with a certain earlier step. When laying, you need to use the construction level, achieving the maximum surface evenness. The fastening of the lag to the concrete base is carried out using anchor bolts. To other surfaces, they are attached to dowels. It is very easy to determine the necessary length of an anchor bolt - add to the height of the lags of 60 mm, and you will get the desired value.

Heat insulation and draft device

The gaps between adjacent lags are filled with thermal insulating material. Most often used basalt fiber, polystyrene foam and isospan. Most convenient in the work of rolled heat insulation. If desired, you can use clamzit.

Laying the lag begins with the angle of the room. The first row of boards must be mounted with a sheet to the wall. Remember the need for a gap between the wall and boards. Follow the next row with the displacement in relation to the previous one by approximately 2 lags. So that the boards firmly fit to each other, take the hammer, put a piece of wood and light tapping to the end of the boards, ensure a dense fit.

When attaching boards along the walls of the screws can be placed on top. In the future, they still hide under the plinth. In all the same rows, the coating can be attached solely for the lower wall of the groove. Ships screws should be driven inside the board. After all the boards are laid, it is necessary to close the deformation seams by the plinth. Additionally, it will protect the walls of the room from various kinds of pollution.

How to put the boards?

It is possible to install the wooden floor only after the laugs are completely aligned. Boards must be attached to each lag. Size the size of the boards in such a way that the joints are placed in the middle of the lag. In addition, they must be located perpendicular to the long side of the board.

To prevent the splitting of the boards, prepare the holes under the fasteners in advance.

It must be 2-3 mm less in diameter than the fastener used.

If desired, instead of a plinth can be used. These are special profiled strips that are installed between the floor and walls.

To prepare holes for pipes, use the drill, the diameter of which is 8-10 mm higher than the cross section of the pipe. To mount nails more reliable, you can pull the boobs boards using a construction stapler.

Step-by-step instruction on floor alignment

The floors are almost never perfectly smooth and smooth, especially in old houses. In some situations, the differences can reach 20 cm in height. Create a similar surface in the proper condition is very difficult, and a concrete tie can not be done in all situations. Not every beam in an old house will be able to withstand heavy loads. In such situations, adjustable lags come to the rescue. They are installed in the following sequence.

First, the bolts are screwed into specially prepared holes in lags. The optimal number of holes is at least 5 for every 2 m beams. After that, the lags are laid out at a predetermined step. In the floors are created holes for dowel-nails. The drill must be brought to the holes for the rack bolts. Lags are aligned in the construction level, after which the dowel-nails are clogged. The protruding parts of the bolts should be cut off. You can install the finish coating.

Floor finish

Floor laying on lags does not end. It is necessary to eliminate the differences in height and roughness. It is most convenient to do this with a squash machine or a small grinding. Cyclish start with a large sandpaper, after which polish the aligned surface of a fine-grained skin.

In complete, you need to apply a protective composition that will increase the wear resistance and the service life of the floor. You can use wax mastic, parquet varnish and oil impregnation. Choose the most suitable option for you. After the protective makeup is dry, proceed to the device of the desired finish coating. Good job!

Due to its ecology, aesthetic attractiveness and natural nature, which provides warmth and comfort in the whole house, wooden floors from a long time and until today, do not lose their position in country construction and not only. Choosing such an option for the arrangement of floors, like a wooden floor on lags, many questions arise: what is lags for the floor, how they are installed and much more. This article will provide comprehensive answers on them.

What is lags

Lag. - The transverse beam, on which the flooring floor is stacked. Lags are bars or boards and can be wooden, polymeric, metal or reinforced concrete. Most often use a wooden bar, because this material is cheaper, publicly available and constructive in the event of a wooden floor mounting. Although the flooring of the floor on the lags from other materials is practically no different.

Functional advantages of using Lag:

• Increasing noise insulation;
• Proper redistribution of the load on the underlying layers;
• The presence of a ventilated underground in which, if desired, engineering communications can be paved;
• Increasing floor thermal insulation;
• Creation of a flat surface for flooring flooring;
• Structural strength and stability resistance;
• The availability of elements for quickly replacing them in case of damage.

What is the distance between the lags of the floor

Step Lag. Directly depends on the thickness of the flooring. If durable thick boards are used for the coating, then the lags can be placed relatively rarely. If the coating is not very durable and thin, then the lags are often located.

Step Lag Depending on the thickness of the floorboard:

Distance dependence between lags from the thickness of the finish board of the floor

To more accurately determine the distance between the lags of the floor will have to produce some calculations.

Example:

Room length \u003d. 11 m.

Width lag \u003d 0,15 m (11 cm).

Given that the board I will have a thickness of about 0.025 m (25 mm), we assume that the distance between the lags should be between 40 cm and 50 cm. Average our assumptions up to 45 cm.

Estimated distance between lags 0,45 m.

Conditionally denote the number of lag - x. .

Width of all lag \u003d 0,15 x. .

The first lags are located at a distance of 0.03 m from the wall (30 mm). therefore

Distances between lags will be \u003d x.-1 .

Distance between all lags \u003d 0,45(x.-1) .

Compile equation:

Room Length \u003d Width Lag + Distance between all Lagas + Distance to Walls

11 \u003d 0.15x + 0.45(X-1)+0,06 ;

11 \u003d 0.15x+ 0.45x-0.45 + 0.06;

11=0, 6x-0.39;

11, 39 \u003d 0.6x;

x \u003d 18,983333.

The number of lag can not be an integer, so we round the value.

Number of lag \u003d 19 pieces

The sum of all distances between lags \u003d 11-0.06-19 * 0.15 \u003d 8.09 m.

We divide the sum of all distances to the number of distances: 8,09 19-1 =0,44944444.

Total: The exact distance between the lags should be 0.4494 m \u003d 44.94 cm.

Important! It is necessary to clarify that such exact calculations should be carried out optionally, it is enough to take the distance between the lags on the averaged value, depending on the thickness of the flooring and the width of the lag. If under the end of the lag installation, the distance turned out to be inaccurate, nothing terrible, take a step between the last lags less, there will be a stronger construction.

Installing lag for floor

The flooring device for lags is performed both along the earth ground and overlapping buildings.

Laying Lag on Wooden Overlap

Laying lags on wooden floors, it is better to fix them to the side sides of the beams

Lags are attached to the beams. But considering that the beams are unlikely to have an ideal level, it is better to attach lags for the side sides of the beams.

In this case, the Lag horizontal is checked by the control rail, there is no need to use linings. Fix the lags are best screwed with screws that have a diameter of 6 mm and the longer lag width 2.5 times.

Important! In order not to split the board, in the beam and lag, you can pre-drill a hole using a 2.5 mm drill less than a diameter than the screw.

If the beams are located at too much distance from each other, you will have to do double lags. First, lay a layer of lag on the beams, and then on top of them one more, but with a smaller step.

There are two ways to lay lag on concrete.

The first way presupposes lining Different thickness between lags and concrete in order to level the level. This method is used quite often, but it is not the best, since with the lining time they can dry, deform, or fly, after which the floor begins to creak, fuse, etc.

Lags better lay on the cement screed, and not on the lining

The second way is to fill cement tie. To align the floor surface. Then the lags are further fitted at this screed. In this case, the floor is not deformed, and the screed provides a reliable and solid support along the entire length.

Before laying the lag on a concrete basis, it is necessary to hold a number of events:

• Waterproof the base, as concrete absorbs moisture well. You can use a polyethylene film 200 mm.
• Put the layer of waterproofing and noise insulation. Soundproofing gaskets are needed to pay off shock noise, stacked directly under the lags. You can use substrates from cork or foamed polyethylene with a thickness of 1-4 cm.
• Floor tie, or cement, or dry.

After all these procedures, it is possible to lay the lag. It is desirable to take a bar equal to the length of the room. If it is impossible, then at least not to use a bar of less than 2 m long, it is inappropriate. If there is not enough length, the bar can be rated with each other.

Important! When laying the connected lag, the junctions of neighboring rows are not at the same level, but to shift 0.5-1 m.

Lagged on a soft insulation cannot be located, as they will be unstable. In this case, the insulation must be aligned with the cloths strictly between lags. If free gaps or cells remain, they can be filled with trimming of the insulation.

Lagges are stacked on supporting columns of bricks

First of all, it is necessary to dissolve and catch the surface of the soil. This work can be done manually using a large log, to navigate the board to it, and moving together a log on the surface, to rub it. The board must be at least 50 mm thick and slightly larger the diameter of the log.

Now it is necessary to make measurements and markup for the columns of supports for lags. If the support for the lag will serve the bars of the bottom strapping, then you can put marks directly on the bare pencil. If it is screened, covered with rubberoid, put the marks on the rubberoid.

The distance from the first lags to the wall should be from 3 to 20 cm.

For the equipment of the support posts for lags, it is necessary to perform a foundation for these poles. It can be separate for each column, and maybe under a number of columns. The minimum sizes of the foundation under one post 40*40 cm, the height should be at least 20 cm, of which 5 cm should be above the soil.

To pour the foundation under the poles:

• From the lag stacked on the beams, we put 20 cm in both directions. We plan them.
• Between the marks stretch the cord.
• We are doing the same in the plane perpendicular to lags to outline the corners of the poles that will be in the places of crossing the shoelaces.
• In the corners set the pegs. At this stage, you can remove shoelaces.

Important! If the foundation is done under a number of columns, then we mark the laces only the edges of the row.

• In the outlined places, we remove part of the soil. We are tamped, we fall asleep crushed stone, we will tamper again.
• In the protruding part of the foundation we make a formwork height of 10 cm.
• In order to water the concrete foundation, the polyethylene film is placed in the pit. If the grinding ground, or previously performed a clay castle, then it is not necessary to hydroizely.
• Reinforcing mesh welded from metal reinforcement 8 mm diameter. It must be installed just below the middle of the future concrete layer.
• Pour concrete. Most often use the "skinny concrete", in which more than the aggregate (sand, rubble) than the binder element (cement). But it is better to use the same concrete as for the foundation of the whole building.
• Let dry for 1-3 days.

After drying, the concrete can be waterproofing. To do this, cut the material with clapties by the size of the column, i.e. 40 * 40 cm , You can make a look at 0.5-1 cm. We are placed directly to concrete, without missing bitumen.

Important! Very often about waterproofing at this stage, they forget, performing it only between bricks and lags. But concrete absorbs moisture well, as it is not designed to use in conditions of high humidity.

Scheme of arrangement of support columns under lags

We pave waterproofing on brick. Cut rubieroid 25 * 25 cm , in terms of brick column, and put on top.

We also lay a sound insulation gasket, which can be fixed so as not to move.

Since the floor on the lags should turn out perfectly smooth, it is necessary to carefully remove the horizontal lag. For this, the first ladies are the "lighthouse" lags, extreme from the walls and at a distance of 2 m from each other.

Important! We check the horizontal of lag relative to the Earth and relative to each other. If the lags turned out uneven, then excessive with a planer, and put the lining under the deficit. The maximum deviation should be 1 mm per 1 m.

We put all intermediate lags.

Freeding lags to columns with corners using self-tapping screws, which should enter the lags of 3-5 cm. The second part of the corner is fixed to the support of the dowels.

Wood floor arrangement scheme for lagas

Before laying a fingerboard, it is advisable to perform the painter of the walls so as not to contaminate the boards.

Insulation can be laid in space between lags

After laying the lag, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation of the floor. It can be insulated with polystyrene foam, basalt fiber or other material, and put it stands in the space between lags if they are installed on a solid base. If the lags are installed on the ground, then the insulation is hardened on the draft floor.

Laying of the floor on the lags begins from the corner of the room, far from the door. The first row floor with a gap of 10 mm from the wall, turning the board with a tongue to her. It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the tree during operation. Fix with self-drawing to lags.

Important! In order not to split the board, the holes climb in advance.

If the size of the boards of flooring is less than the length of the room, then the following rows are placing with a displacement. We insert them into the grooves of the previous row, on the reverse side we fix the self-drawing so as to hide the hat.

Important! Sevective rings on floor boards alternate. In one row, they must be located in one direction, in the other - to another.

All the boards pressed tightly to each other and fasten to each lag.

The last row of boards fix screws in such a way that the plinth hid the caps. All fastening of boards near the walls are produced so as to hide their plinth.

The device of the wooden floor by lagas is one of the most sought-after and durable. In addition, this floor is easily repaired. The main thing, to carefully monitor and check the correctness of laying the lag, then the design will be durable and durable.