Autumn is the best time of the year when it is better to transplant gooseberries. The season is already over, the berries from the bushes are harvested, which means that after transplanting to a new place, the shrub will direct all its efforts to rooting and better take root.

Choosing a suitable place for a gooseberry transplant

Not everyone succeeds in initially planning the arrangement of beds, shrubs, trees and flower beds on the site so that later they would not have to regret their decision. The reasons why there is a need for redevelopment of the site may be different: someone comes up with an idea in front of the house, others experience inconvenience from overgrown trees and shrubs, and still others try to save the weakened plants that were planted in the wrong place for them. And if adult fruit trees in most cases have to be cut down under the root, then the situation with shrubs is much simpler - for example, transplanting gooseberries in the autumn does not require much trouble from the gardener and does not take much time.

As you know, the gooseberry grows and bears fruit best, which is planted in places open to the sun, protected from strong winds. In damp areas where groundwater is too close to the ground, and in areas with heavy clay soil, the bush will often be exposed, and if the berries appear, they will be very small.

Gooseberry transplant video

To get a good harvest from gooseberries:

• choose areas with light loamy soils, sandy loamy soil can be diluted with clay, and clay can be added with clay;
• since gooseberry does not favor acidified soil, if necessary, add lime to it immediately before planting bushes;
• it’s better not to plant gooseberries after raspberries and currants, because after them the soil is depleted, and the pests of these crops are common - they will gladly pounce on weakened gooseberry bushes;
• adhere to the most suitable dates when you can transplant gooseberries;
• remember to carefully weed the ground before replanting the bushes.

Gooseberries, which are planted in open places in the sun, grow best and bear fruit.

If you need a gooseberry transplant in order to free up space on the site, then you can place bushes along the fence, at a distance of one and a half meters from it, or near young trees, leaving a free distance of at least two meters.

Step-by-step instructions on how to transplant gooseberries

Although each gardener has his own opinion about when to transplant gooseberries more convenient and efficient, in the spring transplanting is undesirable because this thorny bush opens up very early. You can easily skip the suitable dates for transplanting gooseberries, and after the appearance of buds on the branches, damaging the root system of the bush is highly undesirable.

In autumn, in September-October, you will be in time by removing all the old spiky branches and leaving only the youngest, strong shoots (they will need to be shortened by a third), making it much easier to work with the bush.

In autumn, in September-October you will be able to cut gooseberries, removing all the old spiky branches

Transplantation of gooseberry bushes occurs as follows:

• cut gooseberries are dug from all sides at a distance of not less than 30 cm from the base of the bush, all thick roots are chopped with an ax;
• then the bush with the help of a shovel or crowbar is taken out of the ground, put on film and transported to the transplantation site;
• a hole of slightly larger diameter is excavated in the selected area than an earthen lump with a root system (about 50 cm deep);
• 4 buckets of water are poured into the pit;
• a mixture is poured from the top layer of the removed fertile soil with compost (it is better not to add fertilizers so as not to burn the roots);
• gooseberry bush is installed in the pit and the gaps on the sides are filled with the remaining fertile mixture;
• the soil around the bush is compacted and watered with three buckets of water;
• dry earth and peat crumb as mulch are poured on top.

Gooseberry Care Video

The transplanted gooseberries should be buried five centimeters deeper into the ground than they used to grow. Before the onset of cold weather, the bush will need to be regularly watered, pushing the mulch and returning it to its place. For the winter it will be enough to fill up the near-trunk circle with sawdust; there is no need to cover the bush.

Gooseberry transplant in the fall can be used not only in order to clear the area under the lawn or move the bush to a more comfortable place. This information is useful to those who are interested in how to plant gooseberries with a view to propagating it. Autumn transplant provides excellent survival of shrubs, so you can safely propagate gooseberries not only by layering, but also by dividing the bush.

Gooseberries remain a favorite among Russian gardeners thanks to their unpretentiousness, high yielding capacity and excellent taste. From the gooseberry to the jam, jams, compotes or just eat it like that. If enough favorable conditions are created for the gooseberry bush, it can actively bear fruit not one and not two years, but as much as 20 years. In some cases, even a twenty-year-old is a limit.

Gooseberry: transplant in spring and autumn, its goals, features of growing a bush

In order for your bush to bear fruit as long as possible and more efficiently, you need to create certain conditions for the plant. So, for example, for large sweet berries you need a lot of light, but not too much water so that the roots do not rot.

You need to carefully monitor the condition of the bush to understand when you can transplant gooseberries to another place. Most often, gooseberries can bear fruit in the same place for a long time, however, the gardener may have reasons for transplanting: there is no more space, redevelopment of the site, the shade of the place of initial planting.

  As a rule, immediately after the decision to transplant, the question arises when is it better to transplant gooseberries in the fall or spring. Experienced gardeners recommend replanting the bush in early or mid-autumn, when the plant has already finished bearing fruit. So it is easier to survive the transplant, adapts to a new place faster due to the completion of sap flow and wintering, and the gardener does not have to worry especially about leaving after the transplant.

Transplantation to some extent promotes the rejuvenation of the plant. If the bush was originally planted in a well-lit place, but the berries are still small, it is worth trying to transplant it to a new place for updating.

If desired, you can transplant gooseberries in the spring. He tolerates this procedure well, but if there were already problems with the bush and he is in a weakened state, it is better to wait until the fall, so as not to injure the bush during the sap flow.

To get a large harvest of gooseberries, do not try to grow it on clay, heavy or acidic soils.

The gooseberry bush has a powerful developed root system, so it does not need frequent watering. For the same reason, do not plant the bush in the area where groundwater is closely located. Gooseberries can produce their own moisture, but it starts to hurt when waterlogged.

A transplant is required if several bushes planted nearby have grown and interfere with each other. In this case, they will not have enough lighting and power. If the bushes are very spreading, between them you need to observe an interval of 2 meters.

Gooseberries will grow and bear fruit better if you regularly loosen the soil. This is especially true for heavy soils. However, it is worth remembering that the roots can be located very close to the surface, so you need to loosen carefully.

How to transplant gooseberry bush: transplant rules

For those who do not know how to transplant a large bush of gooseberries, there are a large number of video materials on the Internet. However, this procedure is very simple, a novice will be able to cope with it. Gooseberries take root very well in a new place and do not cause any trouble.

Subject to these simple rules, gooseberries quickly adapt and begin to bear fruit the next year after transplantation.

How to transplant gooseberries to a new place: choosing a place and leaving after a transplant

Before transplanting a gooseberry bush, it is worth carefully considering a new place for its cultivation, since the crop will depend on the correct choice of place. There are several features to consider when choosing a new gooseberry patch.

• Choose places with good lighting, but protected from the wind. If there are buildings and fences near the place, they should not cast a shadow on the bush.
• Do not plant gooseberries in the place where currants or raspberries grew before it. These shrubs have common pests that can persist in the soil.
• The soil on the site should be fairly light, fertile and neutral. If the soil is acidic, add lime to it before planting, and sand to heavy clay soils, to clay to sand to make loamy soil suitable for gooseberries.
• No need to plant gooseberries in the lowlands, as there is often waterlogged soil. For gooseberries, a large amount of moisture in the ground is destructive. It is best to plant gooseberry bushes on small hillocks.

After transplanting the bush, you need to pay special attention to it. If you set out to transplant an old gooseberry bush to rejuvenate it, annual pruning will be required. Only last year’s branches bear fruit best, so every year before wintering, old branches are cut off at the bush and only 6-8 pieces are left.

Transplanted gooseberries must be freed from weeds by weeding the soil near the roots. This must be done with your hands so as not to damage the root system.

Gooseberries do not need frequent top dressing. It is enough in the autumn to fertilize the soil with compost and organic fertilizers, so that the shrub actively fructifies and grows. You can also mulch the soil to slow down the growth of weeds, reduce moisture evaporation and contribute to the fruiting of gooseberries.

It is advisable not to touch the transplanted bushes until spring, and in spring you can treat them from pests. The treatment of bushes with boiling water, which is carried out in early spring, when the snow has not yet melted, helps a lot.

Our country is huge, and what is normal for the Stavropol Territory or the Far East may not be suitable for the central regions of Russia.

Olga Burtseva from Kharkov in the comments asks if it is possible to transplant an adult gooseberry bush. Unfortunately, this problem is relevant for many gardeners, especially beginners, who seek to plant everything at once on their site.

Gooseberries are a forgotten medicine. It helps well with diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, perfectly improves immunity, improves blood composition, and most importantly - effectively prevents the development of atherosclerosis. And just a handful of fresh berries a day is enough! Many are convinced that blackcurrant is ahead of gooseberries in terms of the amount of nutrients, in fact, the opposite is true.

But they don’t have a very good idea of \u200b\u200bwhat the planting will look like in 5-6 years, when the plants enter the adult life cycle. However, the problem can be solved. Now there are technologies that allow replanting mature trees, not to mention shrubs. True, transplanting a tree is not easy, you need a special technique. But the bush is quite capable of transferring to another place by the summer residents themselves. A few years ago, my husband and I did this procedure, the result is quite satisfied. However, everything is in order.

A place for a gooseberry bush under the fence

Our gooseberries grew along the fence from the netting on the north side of the site. Behind the fence there is a meadow and fields, m the garden was blown very hard. At the family council! it was decided to replace the net with a professional sheet to protect the plantings from piercing winds, and at the same time move the fence a little, so that later, removing the netting, not spoil the new fence.

We set up the fence, then we removed the net, but it turned out that the bushes now grow at some distance from the fence. Moreover, it was not possible to use the liberated territory, but we did not want to plant weeds. The husband proposed layering to move the bushes closer to the fence, and those that are already bearing fruit, eventually cut down. Not a good idea: it would take a year to root layering, form a new bush and wait until it gains strength. It would have taken all five years, but I wanted to get the result earlier. Therefore, I insisted on moving to a new place existing and well-established plants. In total, seven bushes of different varieties grew along our fence. Immediately, it was scary to transfer everything (suddenly they didn’t take root?), And it was decided to divide this process into two stages.

No sooner said than done. The bushes were well spilled with water a day or two before transplantation to preserve as much land as possible on the roots. Then, just before the transplant, they tied it tight with twine. (It doesn’t matter if several branches break at the same time: all the same, part of the crown will have to be removed, because the stubby roots will not be able to feed all the branches.)

At a new place, they dug landing pits about 1 m in diameter and about 80 cm deep. The bushes were dug around the periphery of the crown to a depth of 80 cm and on both sides with shovels they began to raise the bush, going around it in a circular and cutting off the roots that went beyond the excavation.

Why dug so wide? The fact is that in plants the root system is, as a rule,

display of the aerial part. Therefore, the most active suction roots are located on the periphery of the crown. Chopping them off means leaving the plant dying of hunger. Of course, someone will object, they say, the suction roots are very thin, almost microscopic. Yes, but they are attached to something! And the more roots we leave, the faster the bush will recover. For a shrub, the loss of old anchor roots is not so destructive as the loss of a working root system.

As if nothing had happened

After we carefully lifted the transplanted bush with shovels, we must also carefully transfer it to film or burlap, preventing the soil from shedding. If the transplant is carried out within its area, a film will suffice. On the film, transfer the bush to the landing pit and carefully install it in a new place, without violating the location of the branches relative to the cardinal points.

Aligning the bush, we sprinkled it with humus (about one and a half buckets per bush), added earth, carefully tamped the surface around the bush with our feet and made a large hole, sprinkling the ground with a roller along the edges of the landing pit. Then they spilled plenty of water. They shed, not watered, so that the earth settles well. The transplant was carried out in early October (in our area this is the best time for planting gardens), but not in the spring.

I want to draw your attention: the gooseberry root is bare, the ground falls off it instantly, so it is extremely important to shed the transplanted plants well in a day or two.

If you will carry the bush over a long distance, it is more convenient to shift it to the burlap. Moreover, the bag should not be synthetic, but natural. It is necessary to cut it, shift the bush on it and tightly pull the roots with wire or twine. Such bushes need to be planted without removing burlap - it itself will rot in a year or two. And the roots will be safe and easily pass through the tissue.

In the spring, we cut the transplanted bushes more than usual, cut all the stems older than three years. Be sure to water the plants abundantly every next year about every 10-14 days.

In the first year, the bushes hurt, even the leaves did not completely turn around. But next year they gave us an abundance of berries, as if there was no transplant! They still live, gladdening with an excellent harvest.

Gooseberry Return

In my childhood my grandmother had 5 gooseberry bushes.

She cooked amazing "royal" jam! An hour before picking berries, my grandmother poured cold water over bushes. The thorns became soft. The branches were fixed with clothespins - and so she harvested. When I inherited the garden, I uprooted these bushes - they were old and sick. And today I tried gooseberries and realized - I want to return it to the garden. Especially liked the varieties Neslukhovsky and Curshu Dzintars.

Senior researcher at the Berry Crop Division of the Institute for Fruit Growing RUE Tatyana Miroslavovna explained to me why not all gooseberries are found in every garden:

At the beginning of the last century, gooseberries were struck by a terrible epidemic field libraries. This disease is also called American powdery mildew, since it was brought to us with American varieties. In spring, the leaves and tops of the shoots, and then the berries begin to become covered with a white coating, which later hardens, turns brown and looks like a dense felt. Plants of old varieties of European selection turned out to be unstable to this disease. Treatments with fungicides of that time did not help much, so people began to get rid of gooseberry bushes in their gardens.

Breeders are trying to revive the culture by crossing European sweet and large-fruited varieties with American, not differing in their special taste and size of berries, but winter-hardy, drought-resistant, slightly prickly, and most importantly - resistant to powdery mildew. However, so far it has not been possible to create a variety that could boast both high resistance to the sphere library and the same large and sweet berries as the old varieties.

The best time to plant gooseberries is late September - early October. The place should be lit, without air stagnation. And from the very beginning it is important to monitor the purity of the trunk circle.

When planting the root neck, deepen by 5-6 cm.

After the seedling, be sure to cut it, leaving 3 buds from the ground on each shoot. Form a bush with 6-7 strong branches. Every spring, cut all weak shoots, leaving 3-4 of the strongest. By 6-7 years of age, the bush should have 15-18 branches of different ages. The main crop is focused on last year's growth. Branches with this type of fruiting quickly age. And on a thickened plant, fungal diseases are more likely to develop. Therefore, from 5-6 years of age, remove old branches, leaving the same number of newly developed root shoots to replace them.

Spring is not considered the best time for transplanting gooseberries. In autumn, there is more time for the event, and weather conditions are more favorable for both planting and transplanting, however, if you do not miss the moment and observe all the details, the bush will not suffer and will yield the crop as usual.

Possible causes of transplantation

Gooseberry transplant in spring may be required in the following cases:

• when redeveloping the site;
• when thickening the berry, when initially the distance between rows and bushes was incorrectly calculated;
• when moving (when you want to pick your favorite variety to a new place of residence);
• with a lack of sunlight (neighboring trees have grown, new buildings have appeared on the site);
• if in the fall the landing was not thought out (the site turned out to be in the shade, wet, not blown).

On a note. Bushes up to 5 years old are best transplanted. Therefore, if a transplant is ripe, do not pull until the bush is hopelessly out of date.

Spring Transplant Dates

In different climatic conditions, the timing of a gooseberry transplant will vary. There is only one principle: do this procedure as soon as the earth warms up so that it can be dug. In the southern regions, this is the end of February, the beginning of March. In the north - the end of March, the beginning of April. If the buds began to blossom, it means that the roots woke up and are vulnerable to manipulation and it is better to transfer the transplant to autumn.

The transplant must be done before the sap flow begins. Only in this case, the bush will well transfer the move to a "new place of residence."

On a note. When the gooseberry bush has already “woken up”, you should not touch it, but postpone the transplant until autumn. In an extreme case - not a transplant, but a “transshipment” with a large lump of land.

The principle of selection of planting material

An ideal transplant bush looks like this:

• age from 2 to 5 years;
• the kidneys have not yet begun to grow;
• there are 3 or more powerful roots of at least 15 cm .;
• subordinate roots well developed;
• the aerial part has two or more strong shoots of 35-40 cm.

The younger the bush, the easier it will tolerate the transplant. Do not transplant bushes older than 5-6 years, as it will be difficult for them to adapt to a new place.

On a note. Bushes affected by diseases or pests, replanting does not make sense. They will not become healthier, the diseases will be transferred to a new habitat. Not the fact that weakened plants will survive. Time will be lost and gardener labor will be lost.

Step-by-step transplant instructions

Gooseberry transplantation consists of several stages that cannot be ignored. Compliance with all aspects will save time on caring for transplanted plants.

Seat selection

A sunny area protected from drafts and northerly winds is the best place for a gooseberry transplant. Normally, when the sun's rays fall on the plant for at least 5-6 hours a day.

Usually choose a place near the fence or outbuildings. Gooseberries do not respond well to waterlogging. If the infield is high groundwater, you need to look for a hill.

The soil should be light and fertile. Excess acidity is easily removed by lime, chalk, dolomite flour. Clay soil is improved by the addition of sand or peat. Well, if before that, potatoes, legumes or beets were grown on the site.

On a note. In order to avoid the transfer of diseases, it is not recommended to plant gooseberries in the area where the berry was laid from currant or old gooseberry bushes grew.

Cooking holes

The site is freed from weeds, roots, debris. Most likely, it will not work to dig out a landing hole. In the spring, after the earth breaks through with a bayonet of a shovel, it is expensive every day. Ideally, if the landing pits are dug in the fall.

Sizes required:

• maintain a distance of 1 meter to the fence and 3 meters to the building;
• the optimal distance between the bushes is 1.5 m, between the rows - 2 m .;
• the size of the pit depends on the bush, while the depth is not less than 50-60 cm, the diameter of the hole should exceed the size of the root system by 1.5 times.

To ensure that water around the roots does not stagnate in problem areas, drainage from pebbles, gravel, shell rock, and screenings is placed at the bottom of the landing pit.

The fertile top layer is mixed with rotted manure, wood ash. At least 10 kg must be added to each well. organics and 2-3 glasses of ash.

On a note. It will not be superfluous to introduce mineral fertilizer (100 grams of superphosphate) between the drainage and fertile layers.

Gooseberry preparation

They dig a bush, inspect. Sick roots and branches are cut with secateurs. The tips of the roots are carefully cut with a sharp pruner by 3-5 mm.

Next, you need to bring the aboveground part in accordance with the underground in size. To do this, the shoots are shortened, usually by a third, leaving 7-8 buds. This is the optimal size for the plant to tolerate the transplant normally.

If the place of transplantation is far, the roots for transportation are packed in polyethylene.

On a note. The following procedure carried out before planting improves the adaptation: lower the gooseberry root part for a few minutes into the clay mash, into which the Kornevin bag and 6 grams of Actara are added.

How to transplant

The transplantation algorithm is as follows:

• pour a hill of prepared fertile soil (over drainage) into the planting pit;
• establish a bush, supporting it vertically (you can bend, deepening the root neck by 8-10 cm.);
• they fall asleep with prepared fertile soil, shaking the bush to fill the voids, crushing each layer;
• pour a bucket of warm water;
• they fall asleep on top with mulch.

On a note. Humate (100 ml. Per 10 liters of water) can be added to water for irrigation. This will improve the survival rate of the plant with a prolonged cold spring.

Transplant Care

Transplanted bushes should be watered abundantly at least 1 time in 2 weeks. It is imperative to mulch the soil in the near-stem circle with a thick layer of mulch so that the earth does not dry out, the “newcomer” was not afraid of temperature changes.

Of great importance are the weather conditions. Transplanted plants are very dangerous spring frosts, as the natural process of preparation for fruiting is disturbed.

In the future, gooseberries require regular care: loosening the soil, weeding weeds and timely treatment from pests and diseases.

If the spring transplant is done according to the rules, the plant will avoid stress, further growth and development will take their course.

All gardeners with gooseberries growing on the plot are faced with the need to transplant it. Redevelopment of the site, overgrown trees that create a shadow over the berry bushes, or an initially unsuccessful choice of location - these are the main reasons for which a gooseberry transplant is required. It is worth noting that gooseberries are unpretentious and adapt very quickly to a new place if the bushes are transplanted according to all the rules of agricultural technology, which you will learn about in this article.

Transplant Benefits

When it becomes necessary to transplant gooseberries, many gardeners worry about how harmful or useful this process is for the bush? If we are talking about an old overgrown plant, then for it division and transplantation to a new place will undoubtedly be very useful, as they contribute to its rejuvenation.

Gooseberry bush can live quite a long time, but abundant fruiting is observed only in the first 9-12 years. Then the shrub begins to age, and yield decreases. And in this case, timely transplantation will help not only to save the bush, but also to prolong its fruiting.

As for young fruiting bushes, the transplant procedure can also benefit the plant if the place and time for movement are correctly selected. You can transplant an adult gooseberry bush in spring or autumn, but autumn is the most suitable time, nevertheless, from mid-September to the end of October. During this period, the shrubs complete the vegetation cycle, and they enter a dormant period. Such a plant after transplantation will not grow, and will be able to take root well before the onset of constant cold weather.

In the spring, transplanting gooseberries is more difficult, because the culture is characterized by a very early movement of juices. Buds appear first on gooseberry shrubs, then flower brushes, and by the end of May one can already see small green fruits. Due to such a rapid vegetative process, it is very difficult to track the moment the juice begins to move.

The only time when you can transplant gooseberries in the spring is the end of March - the beginning of April, as soon as the snow has melted, but at this time, as a rule, the soil still remains frozen, so that an autumn transplant is considered more promising and useful for gooseberries.

Choosing a new place

The location is crucial for the growth and fruiting of gooseberries, so the choice of site should be approached with all responsibility. It must meet the following requirements:

• settle in a sunny place, protected from strong winds and drafts;
• do not plant gooseberries after currants or raspberries - these crops have common pests and diseases, so the transplanted bush is likely to hurt in a new place;
• gooseberries are hygrophilous, but excessive soil moisture caused by the proximity of groundwater is harmful to it, since most varieties are not immune to fungal diseases, in particular powdery mildew;

• fertile loam of medium density is considered ideal soil for planting - if your soil is loamy, but there is not enough humus in it, you can correct the situation by adding a small amount of humus or compost, too dense clay soil can be made more loose using sand and peat;
• the acidity of the soil for gooseberries should be neutral (this is fundamentally important) - in acidic soil the plants immediately become sick, so the increased acidity must be leveled with lime.

How to determine the acidity of the soil? There is a very original “folk” method by which many gardeners check the pH level.

It consists in the following: a handful of fresh cherry or currant leaves should be placed in a glass dish, pour boiling water and close the lid. When the water has cooled, throw a lump of earth into it, and follow the color change. If the color remains green, then the acidity is normal, a red tint indicates increased acidity, blue indicates a decrease in acidity.

Tool preparation

Work tools and equipment required for transplanting plants should be prepared in advance so as not to be distracted by their search. What may be needed for work?

• garden shears (secateurs) - to trim the bush before moving to a new place;
• shovel - for digging and falling asleep landing pit;
• scrap or garden pitchforks - it may be necessary if the bush is old and deeply grown (in this case, using one shovel it will not be possible to dig it out);
• ax - with its help it will be possible to chop off old dry roots;
• bucket for watering.

Transplant Rules

The transplant process itself does not take much time, but first you need to carry out all the preparatory work.

First of all, a thorough pruning of the bush should be carried out, removing about half of its crown. Gooseberry spiky shoots and dealing with them is not easy, so you can remove branches in parts. Leave on the bush no more than 7-8 young shoots, shortening them by a third.

Landing pits are recommended to be dug up 1-2 weeks before transplanting, then the soil will have time to settle, and fertilizers will interact with the ground. The depth of the pit should be at least 50 cm, the width depends on the size of the rhizome. On the eve of landing, the landing pits are well moistened, pouring 3-4 buckets of water into each. If the soil is not fertile enough, then before watering, you should make 0.5 buckets of humus or compost, mixing the fertilizer with a part of the earth dug from the pit, and then fill everything back.

The transplantation process itself consists of the following steps:

• The trimmed bush is dug in a radius of 35–40 cm, being careful not to damage the main roots - small side roots can be chopped off with a shovel.
• Next, using a shovel and scrap, you need to try to remove the bush from the ground, lay it on a piece of film and move it to the planting site.
• Too voluminous lateral roots can be cut off with a shovel or ax. Do not worry that this will harm the plant - gooseberries are very tenacious, and its root system is quickly restored.
• Next, lower the bush into the planting pit so that it is buried about 5 cm lower than before, in the old place.

• We straighten the roots and fall asleep with the earth, compacting and watering each layer so that voids do not form.
• After landing, the trunk circle is mulched with organic matter, best of all with peat crumb.

Before each watering, you need to rake off the mulch, and then return it to its place. It is permissible to cover the soil around the bush with dense material, for example, roofing material, until the plant takes root.

With a massive transplant of gooseberry shrubs, you must immediately dig up the required number of planting pits, adhering to the scheme: 1.5x1.5 m. This is the most acceptable distance between plants and in the aisles for any kind of gooseberry, taking into account regular planned cuttings. Gooseberries have a very high survival rate, so replanting it in the fall, you can expect a good harvest next spring.

Video “How to transplant gooseberries correctly”

From this video you will learn how to properly transplant gooseberries.