Electric drill is a universal tool. In addition to the use of direct purpose (drilling holes), it can be used for a variety of types of work. After all, the drill cartridge allows you to clamp not only drills, but also cutters, grinding elements and even wooden blanks for turning. Therefore, from this tool you can make several types of full-fledged homemade machines for processing and making various materials and parts.

Features of applying machines

Working the drill on weight when holding the instrument only with his hands significantly limits its capabilities. The weight of the tool and vibration does not allow rigidly fix the drill in the desired position. But if we think over and construct a special box where it will be stable to attach, then the ordinary manual drill will turn into a professional, almost industrial equipment.

From a drill, you can independently make such types of machines:

• drilling;
• turning;
• milling;
• grinding.

Moreover, after replacing the working or cutting element, the machines become interchangeable. Provide the function two in one, for example, drilling and milling machine, turning and grinding. It all depends on the conditions of installation and the needs of the owner.

The power of the machines and their capabilities will depend on the type of drill (the power of its electric motor), the attachment method, since it is it that in this case acts as the main working part of the equipment.

Types of machine tools

Despite the homemade assembly, each machine allows you to produce a wide range of details of various complexity and configuration. With the right installation of the unit, it practically will not give up by professional factory counterparts on accuracy and speed.

If high-power drill, designed for long-term uninterrupted operation, then on such a machine it is possible to establish serial production or processing of various elements.

At home, such machines are capable of fully satisfying household needs for the repair of furniture, a car, a bicycle and many other things of everyday everyday. They will help to implement many design decisions without the need to contact profile workshops.

Each type of machine provides for the performance of different works and has its own characteristics.

Drilling

The drilling machine is necessary for forming holes in various surfaces - both flat and multifaceted elements made of wood, metal, plastic, glass. The diameter of the opening and the material of the part is determined by the type of the used cutting element - drill.

The principle of the unit is based on the fact that the mechanism that ensures the torque of the cutting element (in our case - drill) is located directly perpendicular to the surface being processed on a special bed - fixed on the spindle rack. When lowering the spindle, the drill is included in the surface and makes a hole in it.

The main advantage of working on the machine before manual processing - the hole is obtained more accurate. The attached drill can be clearly focused and send to the right place.

You can consolidate a drill on an additional longitudinal bar placed perpendicular to the omitting / raising spindle on its housing - this will allow you to move the fixed tool not only in the vertical, but also in the horizontal direction.

Turning

The processing of parts on the turning machine occurs due to the rapid turnover of the workpiece around its axis, which are provided by the spindle rotating from the electric motor, in this case, this is a drill cartridge. The cutting element is applied manually from the side, perpendicular to the rotating workpiece, or penetrates inside, depending on the type of work performed.

The lathe is used for the inner and outdoor treatment of metal, wooden or plastic parts:

• thread cutting;
• screw-cutters;
• trimming and processing of the ends;
• coinening;
• deployment;
• boring.

The billet is clamped in the machine between providing torque element (nozzle in a drill cartridge) and a presser guide bush. The clamping sleeve is placed on special seasons, and fixed in the desired position with a nut. From the length of the polozov will depend on the size of the workpiece that can be installed in the unit.

In this case, during the independent manufacture of the machine, the length of the polozov is determined individually at the desires and needs of the owner.

The drill is fixed in the window "tightly".

Milling

The milling machine is used to process metal and wooden blanks with a cutter - tools with special cutters, teeth. During operation, the cutter, turning around its axis, is removed from the workpiece part of the outer layer, giving it the necessary form.

With the help of cutters produce sharpening and other works:

• cutting;
• sharpening;
• torching;
• zenkering;
• scan;
• cutting threads;
• production of gear wheels.

In the case of a self-made mini-unit, the milling nozzle is clamped into the cartridge drill fixed on the bed. The billet is applied manually or also fixed in a special clamping device.

Grinding

With the help of a grinding machine, it makes stripping of various surfaces, making them smooth. Also, grinding helps to change the shape of the workpiece, to give it the desired design form, for example, in the woodworking version of the equipment.

As a grinding element, as a rule, sandpaper. A special nozzle is clamped into the drill cartridge, which has a rough surface - grinding.

There are nozzles providing for the replacement of the grinding material - the sandpaper sheet is fixed on their flat working surface using special "lipochki" located on the back side.

The grinding process is made due to the processing of the workpiece rotating in the cartridge drill the nozzle with a grinding coating. Thanks to the abrasive spraying on sandpaper, it removes part of its surface from the processed blank.

In the manufacture of the machine, the drill is clamped and fixed in the bed in one position, and the billet is applied manually.

As a stop for the workpiece, an additional stand can be used - for convenience it, as well as in the case of a lathe, can be placed on the clamges.

Necessary materials and tools

Creating a torque by an element, and according to the main working part in each form of the machine, the drill is. Type of processing will be more dependent on the nozzle installed in its cartridge. Therefore, they will need identical materials for their assembly.

To assemble the lathe, grinding machine:

• rectangular metallic or wooden base, bed;
• clamping sleeve;
• clamping grandmother, which will be attached to the cartridge drill;
• clamping for pressure sleeve;
• planting place for fixing a drill.

Materials for the assembly of drilling, milling machine:

• square bed;
• the metal rack on which the spindle with a fixed drill will move;
• spring corresponding to the rack dimer;
• table for the workpiece;
• pin for fastening the table.

From the tools you will need:

• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• hacksaw on wood or metal;
• fasteners - bolts, self-tapping screws, nuts;
• welding machine.

If a metal machine is planned to be made, then the presence of a welding machine will be a prerequisite. Since the machine is designed more for home use, its drawings and the size of the components of the elements are established individually.

Production algorithm

Considering that by type of processing, home machines will be interchangeable, and a decisive role will play the nozzle installed in the drill, consider the two main options of homemade units - horizontal and vertical.

The order of assembling vertical machine is as follows.

• Cut out of a piece of metal or wood square base 50 to 50 cm, thickness from 10 to 20 mm.
• Exactly in the center at a distance of 1-2 cm from the edge, drill a hole for mounting the rack in it. The diameter of the rack must be at least 5 cm.
• Install the rack, select it using a level and weld the welding electrode. If a wooden machine and a wooden stand will be made, it is hard to fix it with self-draws.
• Drill using metal clamps to fix on the moving element, which will be put on the rack, forming the omitting / rising spindle.

• Put the spring on the rack. Its length should be at least 2/3 racks.
• By putting a drill on a rack, mark the place where the drill will fall when the spindle is lowered.
• Accordingly, this place is cut into the cross-cross-time cross-through hollows.
• In the hollow on the thread pin, a table is installed on which the billet will be attached. From the bottom side, the nut is screwed onto the pin, it will fix the table in the desired position. From the outside, you can also attach a table to the pin to the pin, drowned it into the surface of the table, so that it does not interfere with the laying of blanks.
• It is important that after fixing the nuthouse, the length of the outer part of the pin was flush with the upper surface of the table.

The workpiece is stacked on the table (if necessary, fixed by clamps) and moves in the desired direction in the descent. The drill is descended manually, rises back due to spring. To convert the machine into a milling or grinding machine, it is sufficient to replace the drill with the corresponding nozzle - cutter or grinding.

The horizontal machine assembly algorithm looks like this.

• Cut a rectangular bed - dimensions are determined individually.
• On one edge, fasten the seat for a drill with a hollow in the top of the appropriate tool sizes.
• Fix on it drill a clamp.
• Along the bed cut through a hollow for the pin, and on the edges, install two metal corners, which will move the presser sleeve.
• The width of the clamping sleeve must accurately correspond to the distance between the guide corners (by clauses). A thread pin is screwed into it from below, which will move in a hollow.
• Moving the sleeve close to the cartridge drill, determine the place where a special grandmother will be installed for fixing the blanks.
• Attach a grandmother with a metal cone-shaped pine placed in the center.
• The bushing is fixed in the desired position (for the clips of the workpiece) with a nut, screwed down on the pin.

Allows you to work with solid materials, correctly core and perform holes at different angles. Basic operations - drilling, grinding, polishing, stripping burrs, sample of semicircle. Make a device can be independently. The unprofessional wizard will cope with the task in a few hours.

Main materials For the manufacture of the rack: Bar 45x90 and 50x50, plywood with a thickness of 10 mm, furniture ball guides 30 cm long, stretching spring.

Step-by-step instructions How to make a rack for drill do it yourself

1. Making machine frame

Guide to attach to the bar 45x90x300 mm, place a pencil from the drilling of holes. Turn the segment to 180 degrees, repeat. Drill two holes on each side.

Tracing guides, check, connect the parts with self-draws. Repeat for the other side. After we disconnected parts of the guides, it is necessary to further secure the third self-tapping screw.

Received the carriage of the drilling machine.
We try on and install the carriage to two sections of a bar with a length of 700 mm.

We try the design in motion.

Tracing the lower crossover from the bar 50x50 mm (it is needed to increase the stiffness of the structure), attach a plywood base, circle a pencil with a connection to the knots.

Place future holes under fasteners. At the points of intersection of vertical and horizontal drill holes.

At the plywood base to apply crossbar, secure clamps. In the outlined places, drill holes and secure wood screws. It turned out the basis.

Mount on the base rack.

Strangle the face at the top of the plywood bar for stiffness. Check the smoothness of the stroke.

The manufacture of the bed is completed.

2. Production of a drill holder
Being from where I was lying on a pen from a drill (not native), I decided to use it to secure a drill. We will continue.
Put the handle on the segment of the board 20x90 mm 30 cm long.

Cut into a pencil outer contour and hole. Cut the electroll loop outline and seat.

Attach the handle to the blackboard by self-draws.

Note and drill holes at the bottom of the board.

Attach the board to the central carriage, check the ease of movement.

On the back of the design, drill holes for hooks for springs, collect.

To increase the stiffness of the structure with force by the 50x50x90 mm bar. Attach a segment to the drill holder, strengthen the design on top and bottom with self-draws.

If necessary, use the clamp. Check the vertical axis of the rack for a drill.

3. Making adjustable table height
Parashka nut to make a piece of rail - draw a diagonal, find the center, drill. Install the M8 mortise nut, drive inside the hammer blows.

Also, using a mortise nut and the pylon M8, we make the base of the adjustable table.

Split a wrench connection.

From the remains of plywood to make the back bar, install in place, connect.
Outline the places of adjusting the stand to the walls. Make the stops, fasten with self-draws.

Secure table on the rack.

Good day to all! I decided to somehow make wooden handles for my tools - files, chisels, cutters. He began to think how to make them. It's just to strict too much, and it turns out ugly. That would be a lathe on the tree! And then I was painted. Why not? The basic idea was drawn at once, the details of Dodumal later. What happened as a result, I want to show you and tell how I did it.

Materials and tools that I used

So, for the manufacture of the machine, I needed the following materials:

• plate of multilayer plywood, thickness of about 10 mm;
• wooden bar rectangular cross section 35x50 mm or 40x60 mm about 1 meter long;
• nut furniture clogged - 4 pieces (the size of the thread is like studs);
• two threaded studs M6 - M10 plus three ordinary nuts to them and two bolts;
• helical clamp, it should be enough to clamp a manual electric drill with a margin;
• car glue, screws.

From the tools, I used the electric drill, clamps, a crown or a mill with a diameter of about 10 mm, thin rolled for drilling holes for the tapping screw. Also need a small emery machine.

Manufacturing a lathe of manual electric drill

We start working from the manufacture of the machine frame. To do this, I cut out of a multi-layer plywood slab 60 centimeters and a width of 11 - 12 cm. Immediately make a reservation relative to the sizes. Here are possible variations. But it is not worth the frame too long, as the machine will be quite lightweight, and it will be difficult to work on it with long items.

An important point is the ratio of the width of the plywood frame and the dimensions of the bar. It will be fine if three bars are placed on the width of the plywood plate (why it is so, you will understand later). So, if a bar as I have 35x50 mm, then the width of the frame should be about 11 cm or a little more. If you take a 40x60 mm bar, then the frame is made width 12 cm.

So, I screwed the base of the frame with a width of 11 cm and 60 cm long. After that, scoring the bar on the bottom of the base, that is, also 60 cm. The second bar, I cut off the length of the drill case with such a calculation so that it does not take to the cartridge and subsequently not prevented him to rotate.

With the help of joinery glue, we combine bars smaller sides of the section so that their ends are on the same line. I clamp the glued parts by clamps and give glue to harden. Our electric drive will be attached to this part of the frame, so by applying a drill to a short bar, I mark the place under the hollow for the clamp. Hold a hole in which the existing clamp can enter. In my case, the diameter is about 10 mm.

Next, I place the plywood plate for placing it in the middle of its design width of two glued bars - long and short. Along the middle of the roll line, drill 7 - 8 holes for the self-tapping screw evenly along the entire length.

Attaching the glued bars of clamps to plywood base, deepening the holes, drill a bar. Now I insert the screws and twist them. Machine frame is ready.

After that, we proceed to the manufacture of the rear grandmother of the machine and the moving stop for the cutter. The grandmother will hold the rotating item from the side, reverse drive. It should be moved along the frame and fixed in the desired position depending on the length of the clamping part. The focus for the cutter should also move freely along the work being processed. For their manufacture, I used trimming of the same plywood and bar.

The movable base of the backstone is a P-shaped design of two bars and a plywood rectangle. To the surface of the plywood base of the grandmother using self-tapping screws, a plywood square of double thickness, obtained by gluing two square pieces of plywood. In this square, the centering bolt for the clips of the workpiece will be fixed. Single plywood rectangle I planted on a screw and glue to Brukes. There should be a design that freely moving along the ride guide bar.

Go to the side of the electric drive. Fix the electric drill with a screw clamp on the frame bar. For the clamping detail, we need a threaded stud and nuts, ordinary and furniture clogged. Climbing the hairpin in the drill cartridge, mark the required length (4 - 5 cm) and cut it off.

Cold the end of the hairpin using shared emery and drill, holding a piece of stiletto into the cartridge. The end of the hairpin should be very sharp, as it will have to enter a wooden workpiece, centering it. Next, we make the refinement of the furniture nut, turning its pointed fixators by 180 degrees by Pasterns. With this part, the part will be carried out and the transmission of the torque from the electric drill.

We collect the design by winding the nuts on the hairpin. The sharp end of the heel should perform a little further (per 1 - 2 mm) sharp fixators of the furniture nut. So it will be more convenient to center the item. On the reverse side, the furniture nut is fixed ordinary. The free end of the stud pour into the cartridge drill. If necessary, correct the position of the drill, seeking parallelism of the hairpin and frame bar.
Now it is necessary to move the backstop to the drive stiletto to determine the place of attachment of the second centering bolt. I move the glued plywood square to the pointed stud, we applied a light blow by a small hammer along its back side and get the required notice from the acute stiletto.

The hole drills this size so that the sleeve of the second furniture nut enters it. We do not refund it, but we use in normal mode by inserting the sleeve into the hole and scoring the locks with the hammer. If necessary, we harde the nut in the vice. I drag the second hairpin, screw it in the furniture nut on the backstone and fix the usual nuts. Having moved a grandmother to the drive, check and, if necessary, correct the spur rates.
Similar to the rear grandmother collect the base of the resistance for the cutter. The difference lies in the fact that the plywood regiment stops with one of the sides. Here we will be screwed by self-drawing a bar, which will rely on the cutter.

It has long been noticed that very many details of the designs of machine tools of various purposes can be successfully replaced by plywood, while the performance of such a machine will not change at all, but the price component can sharply go down. Homemade plywood machines have fabrics and tables for cutting material that can be calmly made from plywood.

Housings, moving supports are also quite lifting products for plywood, so today we will talk about the machines and the possibilities of plywood.

Decide with thickness, solve the price issues and ways of working with the material

Plywood, like a tree, grateful material, but capricious, requires a special approach and very much does not like rough interference in its structure.

It must be remembered that, depending on the thickness of the material, an approach to working with it is changing, namely:

• Thin plywood up to 2 mm, this is an instance for a knife, an ordinary mounting knife;
• Sleana from 2 to 6 mm is already for the jigsaw, it doesn't matter exactly which junk you will use, manual or electric, this is its client;
• And everything that is thicker is 6 mm, here only disk saws.

Although speaking of the design of machines and the role of plywood in this process, you can immediately discard the subtle plywood, in this work it does not apply.

We will be interested in two main copies:

1. The first is a plywood thickness from 4 to 6 mm. Here opinions are divergent, both specialists and home masters. Some believe that the thickness of the plywood, the stronger. Others argue that the layering of the material already makes it strong enough, and even compare it with welded or licensed structures.
   As usual, the truth is somewhere in the middle, so we will assume that in this case the ratio of price-quality will help, especially since we do not need a super material that will work in an open-air or in water. The machine will safely work in a home workshop with minimal temperature differences and normal humidity.

1. The second is an analogue with a thickness of 10 to 20 mm. In this case, it all depends on what purpose the plywood is used. For example, a plywood cutting machine, which is designed to work with a complete factory sheet has a wide base and requires a special fortress, in this case, twenty is needed. A homemade CNC machine from plywood is designed for a small fragment area, and, therefore, 10 mm of plywood will perfectly cope with the task.

About cutting a little more

So, here are the rules that need to remember when cutting plywood:

• Plywood - layered material and the main cutter must go along the fibers of the first layer of material;

Tip!
Practice shows that it is not always possible to cut exactly along the fibers, often you have to use transverse cut.
And given the modern designs of the machines, or their parts, then, for example, the CNC machine from plywood with their own hands the produced requires a large number of not only transverse but also curvilinear saws.
It often necessitates combined cuts.
In this case, the knife on the flows is a section of the first layer of plywood, all other layers will be held by the technical means of sawing.

• When cutting, keep in mind that much more dense analogues from coniferous woods (they are more loose, and therefore softer);
• It is important and which side is made. So cut from the front side is carried out by a manual saw with small cloves, cut from the reverse side is carried out by coarse disk saws;
• When working on disk equipment, the speed of rotation of the disk is set to the maximum, and the submission of the material is minimum;
• The saw is fed easily to the first, easy recoil (or tangible material resistance), so you can noticeably reduce the likelihood of chips and other defects.

A little practice!
When working with plywood, it is better to abandon cloths with large teeth at all, no slurge is designed for them.
And yet, when working with this material, an ordinary tape can be pasted into the location of the alleged cut.
The result will be without chipping and other defects.

Connection and drilling

We have already mentioned that Plywood does not like coarse mechanical impacts on it, so if you decide to connect the items and collect machines with your own hands from plywood, then you can forget about nails, by the way, about self-stairs too. In this case, there can be only spikes and grooves, while the spike in the groove is included as the key to the lock, the slots are not allowed, the PVA glue is used when fixing.

It equally concerns the machines for cutting plywood, and a plywood machine with CNC, and all other aggregates where plywood will be used. This is due to the fact that both mobile and fixed parts are experiencing vibration and can crumble at the most inopportune moment if other types of fixtures are used.

And a few words about drilling - an acute drill for a tree will suit.

For your information!
When drilling plywood at the level of drill output, chips of the outdoor veneer level are possible.
In order to avoid this, it is necessary to put another plywood fragment under Plywood, it is possible to use waste from sawing material.

Finishing details

Any instruction will tell you that at the final stage of plywood is subjected to grinding, primer, finishing. Especially allocate edges processing.

Is there any need for painting products from plywood, the question remains open, for the reason that the machine and its components are tested by a rather pronounced mechanical, vibration, temperature effects and even different cooling often do not cope with the task.

Cooling fluids for plywood units are not used, and air cooling works on the principle of better than any.

Therefore, in principle, you can restrict ourselves to the following set of actions:

• Grinding the entire design of fine-grained emery paper, can be zero. The process begins on the corners along the fibers;
• Separately grind the angles, if necessary, they can be styled, and then to open;
  
• The primer will not hurt the special composition in principle, since in many workshops there are no heating, and plywood - the material prone to the bundle, excessive protection will not be extended.

Finally

Plywood is quite a suitable material for the production of homemade machines. The video in this article is also ready to reveal the topic.

Related Materials

For all lovers, make a product with your own hands, will be an excellent helper. Such an aggregate, in a garage or house, will allow you to make holes with accuracy and accuracy, make the milling in the wood, drill a broken bolts from the thread and so on. However, the purchase of a drilling machine can do quite expensive, and why spend extra money when you can easily make a drilling machine with your own hands.

Common Characteristics for Drilling Machine

Drawing of the checker

For manufacture, it will take at least expensive materials. Basically, it is a primary means that can be found in any garage. Of course, the material must meet the requirements of the device.

For example, for the manufacture of a large stationary machine, without a metal frame, it is not necessary, and in the case of a desktop unit, only wooden materials can be used.

For all types of designs, three fundamental factor will be required:

• convenient drill feed lever;
• accuracy of drilling mechanism;
• reliable bed.

Undoubtedly, the feed lever should be placed under the work hand of the wizard, the left or right. However, this is not the only condition for convenience. Drill feed lever, should not be long, so as not to interfere with the work, but also not short, so that the pressure on the part is easier. For a better concept of the length of the lever, it is worth considering the drawings of the factory drilling machines. There the length is adjusted by the desired size.

Although the mechanism for drilling will be used, it should be fixed with the smallest error ratio. For this, the drilling mechanism is best fixed on the vertical bar. However, it is possible to use a solid wood panel with guide stalls.

Without reliable bed, the self-made drilling machine will not only work badly, but also will be dangerous to use. The base of the tool must be two times wider than the volume of the structure. This width will allow the design to be stable during the necessary pressure. In this case, the feed lever should not appear for the edges of the bed. Stationary machines, this rule does not apply, because they are fixed to the table surface or make with an individual table.

Drilling machine with their own hands

Which engine to use

Make a self-made drilling machine, using several variants of driving force:

• from a drill or screwdriver;
• from the electric motor;
• from hand drill.

At the same time, for each type of structures, the characteristics of a stationary, portable or tabletop will be determined. In the case of an electric motor, you can make a stationary or desktop unit, and in the case of an electric door, it will be either a desktop or a portable unit. Manual drill, can carry the character of a portable, not requireing the power of the device.

Drill as a tool for machine

To make a good drilling machine from a drill with your own hands, the design for this tool is better to do the tablet. It is worth avoiding the fixing the machine on the table. Electronic drill, a fairly popular tool, so it will be useful if it can be removed from the machine. In this case, the design on the table will be superfluous.

The desktop additive will require such materials:

• 45x30 cm bed, with a vertical bar fixed on it;
• fastening for a drill, a well-clutching tool body;
• metal slider moving by rod;
• wheel playing the role of the lever;
• steel cable, to control the movement by the lever.

For bed, it is better to use a metal box with a wall thickness of 3 mm. The box is welded with a square tube. This rack will serve a barbell or tripod. Further, a tight slider should be attached to the tripod, which will hold the drill holder and the drill itself.

It will be difficult to choose exactly the appropriate slider, so it should be made of metal plates. Free space between the slider and the tripod should be no more than 0.5 mm, despite the fact that the tripod will be perfectly even.

Further sequence of actions:

• the slider is made in a height of 10-12 cm;
• to it, the holder is welded for a drill from the front and ears for fastening the wheel on the back side;
• in the ears, the rod, to which the control wheel is welded, and is fixed with a pin or welded nut;
• on the wheel rod, the steel cable (at least 6 turns) is cooled tightly, and both ends of the cable are securely attached to the top of the tripod and on the bottom. Thus, for the movement of the slider by a tripod, an effort will be required, and there is no own weight (together with the drill) so that the slider falls.

Electric motor construct

Similar machines, perfectly show themselves as stationary tools. To, figure out how to make a drilling machine from the electric motor, you have to consider the drawings and in the sphere of electricians.

For the machine, a two-phase engine will be required, which will significantly simplify the connection and expand the scope of the unit. This engine is connected to phase and zero wires. Incorrect connection will affect only the direction of rotation. If, the rotation will be in the opposite direction, the wires are varying in places, and the problem is solved.

Making a stationary design for drilling, you will need:

• powerful engine frame that will easily move along the vertical line;
• countertop, where the strict vertical line pin will be fixed;
• in the role of the pin, you can take from the car. It will serve as a ready-moving engine tool moving;
• adjust the wheel to move and welcome the engine holder to the rail.

The principle of operation, such a machine is very simple. The motor drives the head for the drill, due to the belt transmission. At the same time, the engine and the cartridge for drill, during operation are inseparable and move along the vertical line at the same time, due to the joint mount.

Portable manual drill mechanism

Very convenient, use the drilling machine from the hand-made drill in cases where there is no possibility to connect an electric drill to the power source. For the manufacture of the machine, you can use a wooden frame:

• the base is performed from the 30x20 cm boards and a thickness of 40 mm;
• the vertical plate is attached strictly at an angle of 90 o C;
• the vertical wall should also be made of thick boards, at least 30 mm, and metal corners and screws and screws will help securely securely.

Metal polls are attached on the vertical wall (they can be taken from the old furniture or buy in the store), the holder of the hand drill is attached to them. Thus, the drill will be freely walking down and up, however, this is not enough. To the drill does not fall under its weight, the drill holder and the base of the machine is attached to the spring of the desired elasticity.

Do not forget about the handle that you will need to turn. Its movement should not interfere. As a result, an aggregate should be turned out, which is driven by manually and does not require nutrition.

Video: Drilling machine from drill do it yourself