Testing input metal. How to sew a metal staircase with a tree


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Than to sew a gate

Do you think about what to sew a garage gate or what material to choose to fill the frame of the street skating model? You hit the desired page. In this article we will talk about popular embodiments of the structures for insulation and an increase in attractiveness.

What to sew garage gate outside

To sew the garage gate from the outside, buy a fane, lining, siding or professional clothes. These materials are not suitable for decorative protective finishes.

Plywood Garage Gate

Plywood is the most budget material for finishing. Works will not take a long time.

For the trim, you will need the following tools and materials:

  • sheets of plywood selected thickness;
  • nuts, washers and bolts;
  • electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
  • two wrenches of the desired size.

Finishing takes place in 4 stages:

  1. Cut the sheets of plywood in size sash. When markup, keep in mind that on each side you need to retreat 0.5 cm. Powder is necessary in order for the gate easily and tightly closed.
  2. Follow the sheets and sash.
  3. Drill through holes in the right places.
  4. Secure sheets on the sash using keys, bolts and nuts.

Note! For fixing, the galvanized fastener chosen under the color of plywood is best.

After completion of the mounting work, cover the sash protective compositions and / or paint. This will increase the moisture resistance of the coating.

Photo No. 1: Garage Gate, trimmed by plywood

Garage Gate Outboard

The gate, covered with clapped, look much more attractive, but such a finish involves more serious labor costs and will cost more.

Photography No. 2: Garage Gate, Clapped Garage

In the process of work you will need:

  • drill with drills for metal and wood;
  • bolts, washers and nuts and keys;
  • electrolovik;
  • thin nails and hammer.

Materials need lining and timber for the manufacture of guides.

To seize the gate outside, act according to the following scheme:

  1. Split the timber on the segments of the desired dimensions (3-4 pcs. For each sash).
  2. Follow the guides and sash.
  3. Drill through holes in them. At the same time, do not forget that bolts hats should be recessed.
  4. Attach bars to sash.
  5. Cut the lining.
  6. Fall stripes to subtle nails guide.

Important! With this variant of the decorative and protective finish, you can additionally warm the garage. To do this, in front of the mounting wallboard, place the material between the guides chosen in the thickness of the bars.

A colorless varnish is best suitable for the finishing finish, since the paint will hide the natural texture of wood.

Garage Gateland Siding

Siding lifting - the most expensive finish option. However, this material has a number of important advantages:

  • Excellent specifications. The panels are durable and resistant to atmospheric precipitation and temperature drops. Gate, covered with siding, will be dozens of years to maintain a presentable appearance.
  • No need for finishing finish. The material does not require painting and handling protective compositions.
  • Easy care. Camping and Faneru will have to handle annually. Siding is enough only to wash it.

Photo number 3: garage gates, siding

The trimming garage gate siding occurs by the same technology as in the case of the clapboard. Perhaps additional insulation.

Garage Gate Crafts

This finish option is also popular. Professional sheets are perfectly suitable for the skin of old metal gates.

Photo number 4: Garage gates, trimmed by professional flooring

In the process of work you will need:

  • drill;
  • bulgarian;
  • screwdriver;
  • saws.

To seize the gate by a straightener, act according to the following scheme:

  1. Make measurements.
  2. Cut sheets.
  3. Follow the material and sash.
  4. Drill holes (the diameter should be less than the diameter of the screws).
  5. Screw sheets to sash.

If you bought painted professional flooring, extra finishes are not required.

Than to sew the gate from the inside

Want to ask the garage gate from the inside to create the most favorable conditions for the conservation and repair of the car? For this, foam is suitable, extruded expanded polystyrene and

It is worth noting that the automatic sectional garage doors do not need to be trimmed, since the thermal conductivity of high-quality sandwich panels is comparable to the same name of the brick wall with a thickness of 0.6 m. Below we consider ways to insulate the traditional metal swing structures.

Inner trimming garage gate foam

The foam is most often used for the insulation of the garage gate in three reasons:

  • Low cost. This insulation is the cheapest.
  • Low weight. The loop load practically does not increase.
  • Durability. The material does not deteriorate with high humidity.

Laying foam plastic does not take a lot of time and effort.


If you want to create an additional protective layer and give the goal a finished and attractive appearance, cutting the sash with plastic panels or plywood sheets.

Important! To do this, you will have to take care that the bolts are not sticking out from the guide bars.

Inner trimming garage gate extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded expanded polystyrene is more expensive than ordinary foam, but compared to it has three advantages.

  1. The material is better suitable for maintaining a comfortable temperature indoor due to reduced thermal conductivity.
  2. If you buy follicitated on one side extruded polystyrene foam, additional waterproofing will not be required.
  3. Due to high strength and rigidity, the insulation can be fixed directly to the sash. Do not do the crate.

Photo number 6: Gate, covered from inside extruded polystyrene foam

For fastening panels to sash, use high-quality imported mounting glue. German liquid nails of rapid frost are perfect. Do not forget to seal the joints by mounting foam.

Note! For the finish finish, plywood, lining, plastic panels and even wallpaper are suitable. In the latter case, the surface will have to sharpen.

Internal trimming garage gates using foil foamed polyethylene

Photo number 7: Foil Polyethylene foam

The thermal insulation properties of this coating are lower than that of the materials described above. As the main insulation, foil foamed polyethylene apply only in regions with a mild climate. For fixation, high-quality liquid nails of fast frozen are usually used.

Photo number 8: Garage gates, trimmed from inside foil foam polyethylene

The main advantage of this coating is excellent waterproofing. Flexible material without problems is stacked even in the most hard-to-reach places. Thanks to these qualities, foil foam polyethylene is excellent for creating combined trim.

The ideal option is 3 layers.

  1. Foil foamed polyethylene.
  2. Extruded polystyrene foam.
  3. Foil foamed polyethylene.

So you will get the maximum heat and waterproofing properties of the trim.

Why not use mineral wool

Many garage owners use mineral wool to insulate, but it is not worth doing this (even if you take foil).

Photo number 9: Foil Mineral Wat

This "air" material perfectly absorbs water, which makes it unsuitable for use in garages where humidity indicators significantly exceed normal values. The first time mineral wool will provide the necessary thermal insulation, but over the years, the service will lose its properties and come into disrepair. The trim will have to redo.

How to defeat the gate in the garage with your own hands

To properly sew the gate in the garage with your own hands outside and inside, carefully examine the following advice of professionals:

  • Fix the materials to the surfaces and joints as closely as possible and special attention is paid to the sealing of connectors. The maximum exclusion of air becks will give tangible results.
  • If there is no wicket at the gate, install. The amount of heat loss will significantly decrease.
  • After cutting, handle the edges of the panels. Materials in this case will not crumble. You will get perfect joints.

Important! If there are very thin walls in your garage, you can create a good microclimate only if we go around the entire structure.

Methods of additional insulation

There are two good ways to provide additional thermal insulation.

Curtains

Manufacturers of awnings produce a wide range of single and multilayer flights from tarpaulin and PVC. The products equipped with champs are perfectly suitable for additional insulation of garages.

Photo number 10: Garage insulated with a tarp wood

To hang the scope:

  • weld the steel cornice;
  • lock it above the doorway;
  • tie a rigid metal wire on the one hand;
  • free end consistently to sell through the chalkboard;
  • raise the curtain and complete the installation.

Seals for slots

For the sealing of the side and upper cracks, buy in the construction market of the bay of the seal. The silicone self-adhesive tape is best suited. It is characterized by reduced thermal conductivity. Installation will pass as quickly as possible and will not require the use of adhesive compositions.

Image No. 1: Self-adhesive silicone tape

For sealing the lower gaps, buy special nylon brushes with wax coating. Their installation does not make it difficult to operate the gate.

Photo number 11: Nylon brush with wax coating

Than to sheathe tighten the gate

Do you want to detect a sliding gate yourself? There are two options:

  1. Buy the necessary tools, materials and components and make it all with your own hands (which is extremely difficult).
  2. Order Production and installation of a rollback gate without filling the frame at a bargain price in Moscow.

Note! Independent filling of the frame will not require serious time costs. The sheathing assumes only the fastening of the selected materials using self-samples or welding.

Sweating Return Gate Tabletail

Professional flooring is the most popular material for taking a sliding gate. Galvanized and steel sheets treated with high-quality paints combine:

  1. low cost;
  2. wide selection of color and design solutions;
  3. low weight;
  4. resistance to adverse weather conditions and temperature drops;
  5. long service life.

Photo number 12: Retractable gate, trimmed by professional flooring

Outstanding Return Color

The trimming of a rollback gate by Eastern Packing will allow preserving the injection of the site. The design will not experience serious wind loads.

Photo number 13: Return gate, embroidered by the European serviceman

Sweeping Retold Gate Wood

Wood is an excellent choice for those who want to combine modern technologies and traditional natural materials. This option to fill the frame is one important disadvantage. The gate, trimmed by a tree, will have to regularly process protective compositions.

Photography No. 14: Return Gate, Sheavded Wood

Sandwich panels

Sandwich panels are popular with the design of street and sectional garage structures in a single style. To fill the frame, you will need a welding machine. As a result, you will get a rigid design. The cloth from the sandwich panels does not publish high-profile sounds when moving.

Photography No. 15: Return Gate, Sandwich Panels

Polycarbonate sliding

Using polycarbonate for the sheat, you will get an attractive translucent design. This material is usually used to fill with lattice and openwork frames.

Photography No. 16: Retractable Gate, Polycarbonate

The most common option for the staircase of the stairs is its cladding with wood. This is one of the most practical and win-win options. Such a staircase fits perfectly into any interior, and can not only fulfill its main tasks, but also serve as a separate interior object. Stylish, thoughtful staircase design will decorate any room. What are the facing methods, and most importantly - how is the case of a metal staircase with a tree? After reading this article, you will find answers to all these questions.

Metal and wood combination

Experts argue that the choice and design of the stairs should take advantage of all seriousness and responsibility, because it is an object connecting two floors, so it should be as strong as possible, with a high service life, and most importantly - reliable.

Important! If we talk about strength and reliability, then in this case the indisputable leader is a staircase on a metal base. It fully meets all the requirements and is designed to serve more than a dozen years.

The staircase on a metal basis is much greater than the concrete structures, by virtue of his:

  • ease;
  • reliability;
  • durability;
  • elegance;
  • high variability.

However, everyone knows that the metal is very cold material devoid of comfort. Since the staircase is used to lift and descend and assumes the presence of height, it is worth saying about the trauma of the metal. All these minuses are eliminated very simply - the shearing of the metal staircase with a tree.

Important! A tree, in contrast to the metal, is warm and cozy material. Wooden stairs are perfectly combined with any interior style, it is enough just to choose its design correctly. Having trimmed by the staircase with a tree, you reduce the structure of the design, create additional comfort comfort, while retaining the strength of the structure and without having without reducing the service life.

Metal and wood are an excellent combination and one hundred percent right solution, when choosing a material from which your staircase will be made.

Material for cladding

If you, after long delimony, still chosen on the facing by the tree, then it is worth dealing with exactly which wood is better to strip the staircase. One of the materials for cladding are MDF panels, they are preliminarized according to a given template, then fasten on a metal frame . However, this is not the most optimal option. The best material for the house is a natural tree, because it is environmentally friendly and safe.

When choosing a tree, it is worth understanding that depending on the variety, it is distinguished by its density, durability and texture. What a variety of wood to choose to clamp a metal staircase with a tree - not such a difficult question. Knowing the features of a variety of wood, as well as based on your requirements and preferences, you can easily choose a suitable array.

Here are the most popular trees and their features:

  • Oak. This wood is characterized by special strength and durability. Depending on the place of growth, it can differ significantly in the color scheme. It has an incredibly noble color.

Important! Oak can darken over time, it is worth considering when choosing an oak array.

  • Beech. It is not inferior to the oak in its characteristics, but has a more homogeneous texture, so it is easily toned. Differs in incredible elegance and aesthetic attractiveness. One of the most sought-after cladding materials.
  • Ash. On a row with an oak and a beech, very durable, its distinctive feature is a characteristic grayish tint.
  • Exotic trees, such as Wenge, Tik, Merbau, Abash. These wood breeds have an extensive choice of shades, an attractive appearance, while they are incredibly durable. The colors palette amazes with its exotic, unusual shades for the wood of our region.
  • Coniferous arrays, such as spruce, pine, fir, cedar. Such wood is not distinguished by durability, quite mild, not highlighted by high performance. Experts advise to use pine solely on the skin of risers and side facing.

Important! Do not use pine like material for steps, as it is soft and has low wear resistance. Use arrays of coniferous species of trees only for facing risers, decorative lining of the side part. They are well handled and affordable.

Ways of facing the stairs

Depending on the design of the room and the project of the ladder, there are two main ways of facing the stairs. These include:

  1. Complete staircase staircase is a metal frame cover from all sides. The tree is trimmed with steps, risers, side and back side of the stairs. As a result, it turns out a complete imitation of a wooden staircase, but the metal frame inside makes it more durable and durable.
  2. Partial sheat when it is made from wood only sticking, and the whole design remains unimpressed. This method is characteristic of stairs on the Kourow.

Decide with the way of cladding is not so difficult. It is enough to proceed from the overall design concept, to understand that it will fit into your interior more: a wooden staircase without visible metal elements or a combination of metal and wood.

Wooden Steps Mounting Methods

In order to sew a metal staircase with a tree, it is necessary to attach wooden blanks to a metal frame. This can be done in several ways, which are determined based on the method of the object, the framework of the frame and your personal preferences.

Allocate the following methods of installation of steps, depending on the design of the stairs:

  • Installation on the boosters. One of the most common installation methods. The platform for fastening the steps and the tree is welded to the Kosouro. There are stairs on one or two cosos. If the side settlement in the wall is used, then the fixation is made on the studs coming from the Kourow. In this version of the fastening of the stage, it is enough to put on the hairpins.
  • Installation using the Film. The mare is attached to a metal-based channel and has a straight angle triangle shape. For its manufacture, such parameters such as the height of the riser and the width of the sticky are important. Wooden step is attached to the mare.
  • Installation on the hospitals. With this method, there is no central base and steps are attached to the hospitals in the wall. From the reverse side, fasteners are fastened by the pages to the ceiling.
  • Installation with screw mounting. With this method, metal plates are attached to the screw pipe, which serve as the basis for steps. Steps are located with a screw around the pipe.
  • The modular method when the staircase consists of identical modules bonded between themselves and having a pipe installed vertically for the support. Steps are attached to the finished design to each module.

In turn, the installation of steps can be made using:

  • self-tapping screws, using an electric screwdriver;
  • mounting glue and pistol for him;
  • bolts, nuts using a horn or clay key or end heads;
  • spill.

The order of work on the staircase of the stairs

After you have decided on the style of the staircase, it is worth starting it with wood trim. The most common option for fastening the steps on the metal base of the stairs is the mounting to metal plates or frame.

How to shelter the metal staircase with a tree with their own hands, which order of work should be followed. In general, the algorithm of actions can be generalized in this way:

  • To begin with, based on the design of the interior and your idea, determine the type of stairs, what kind of facing you will use - full or partial.
  • Decide with the variety of wood, and if you have already decided than shelter the metal staircase, you must calculate the amount of the required material, purchase it. It is desirable to carry out cladding material from the same party in order not to be visual differences on the structure of the tree, it had the same degree of moisture.
  • Based on all measurements, make billets of steps. It is necessary to precisely fit each step in size, numbered each of them.
  • Fasten each stage, starting from the top, based on the selected attachment method. Ideally, the commencement should perform a little forward from the foundation.

Important! Fastening every disposal, check the fixation of the mount with the help level.

  • If you have chosen the full option of the trim, you first need to perform fasteners of the upper step, then its riser. Next - the next top stage is attached, its merits until all the elements are fastened to Niza. The next step is made by side facing, after which they sew the rear marching side.
  • At the final stage, the facing will have to cover the stages of varnish, paint or oil.

Important! At this stage, you can give steps the desired shade using the bridge, or simply protect them, keeping the most natural look. The most eco-friendly coating is natural professional oil for wood.

Stock foot

As you can see, shelter the staircase with the tree is not so difficult. It is enough just to decide on the type of design of the staircase, a variety of wood for facing, make accurate measurements of all elements, securely fix them. As a result, it will not be just a vital design in your house, and also an independent design element of the interior, because the staircase created by your own hands fills the house with an incredible comfort, it looks stylish and unique.

Suppose you decided to make a steel door with your own hands or want to buy it, but the upholstery of metal doors in the store leaves much to be desired. Do not be discouraged, to shelter the metal door is not so difficult and then we will tell in detail what to see the entrance door and the slopes to it on both sides, with all the pros and cons of the currently existing options.

The upholstery of the entrance metal door talks about the status of the owner of the house.

For those self-relockers who want to surprise their own high-quality steel door made by their own hands, there is a good step-by-step instruction with detailed video, detailed photos and explanations, you can find it.

First of all, remember, covering the metal door outside and the decorative finish from the inside is not at all the same. Even if visually materials look the same, characteristics or at least the level of treatment is completely different.

After all, do not forget, we are talking about entrance doors, where the facing is regularly poured with rains outside, freezes and fries in the sun, and from the inside the decoration of metal doors is in comfortable conditions of a residential building. By the way, you can learn about the warming of iron doors with your own hands.

Laminate

The decoration of metal doors with outdoor laminate has long ceased to be a wonder. After all, the floor covering was originally designed for quite serious loads:

The iron door finish with a good laminate and not expensive option.

  • Lamin the iron door, decorated with laminate from whitewashing, clear from dirt or traces of shoes will not be a lot of work, because on the floor this coating is exposed to even greater tests;
  • Any laminate will calmly withstand claws of domestic pets, even a large dog is not able to scratch such a coating;
  • A big plus from the point of view of design is the same floor decoration, slopes and door canvases;
  • The string thickness ranges around 6, to 12 mm, the cladding weight is also not great, which is an additional advantage when choosing;
  • The planks are connected according to the principle of spike-groove, and after the splicing, a smooth monolithic surface is formed, in which even the seams are tested with difficulty;
  • To fix the canvas, it is enough to clean and treat the steel sheet with a soil, after which you can safely glue the planks, for example, on liquid nails;
  • If the doors from the inside are not covered with a solid steel sheet, then the laminate planks are attached to the bars of the inner crate, and to hide the non-locking slice and self-tapping screw, the plastic P-shaped profile is glued along the edge.

Separate the door from within the floor laminate for an amateur is quite real.

We now turn to the "underwater stones" there are also enough of them here. Let's start with the fact that the floor laminate, whatever it is expensive and elegant, was originally created as an inner coating, and therefore, it is not designed for sharp drops of temperatures, frost and excessive humidity.

Accordingly, they can only get the doors from the inside. Outdoor decoration is possible only in multi-storey houses with relatively warm entrances.

If you decide to stop your choice on the laminate, then keep in mind: this material is divided into 7 classes. If the marking begins on 2, this material is made for apartments and private houses (21,22,23). Everything that begins on the troika (31,32,33,34) is designed for commercial organizations, offices and shopping centers.

The classification of outdoor laminate depends on the level of wear resistance.

When buying, you do not need to listen to the consultant's persuasion. The fact is that visually 21 and 34 class can not differ anything and if you are not going to dance on your doors or wash them out of the fire hose, then take the twenty-first class, and the thinnest planks (6 mm), the price will please you.

MDF panel

MDF panels are one-piece big linings on the doors, professionals these panels are called cards. Now the upholstery of the metal door with such cards occupies almost half of the market.

The finishing of the inlet metal doors panels MDF is now considered the most popular.

The material itself is made from wood dust and, if you believe the manufacturers, it does not contain any harmful additives. Wood dust falls asleep in forms, presses and affected under greater pressure, as a result, natural glue lignin is released from it, which turns the compressed mass into the monolithic sheet.

Before we have a cloth, you need to decide which panel you want to see. Clean the inlet metal door can be clean MDF, laminated or veneered.

If to say honestly, then the clean sheets of MDF to improve the door canvase are not suitable. The top layer of the sheet is practically not protected, his appearance is quite mediocre and maximum that you can do it with something to paint, with particular beauty you will not achieve.

There is an important point here, about such a common material as a DSP is better to forget immediately, you should not even think how to separate the metal door sheets of chipboard. Neither for external, nor for inner lining of the entrance doors, this material is not suitable, the sheet will begin to settle down in a year.

The most common is laminated MDF, such cards have quite a lot of advantages:

  • Laminated MDF card is resistant to burnout;
  • The decoration of the metal door with their own hands will not be difficult for you, and both outer and interior decoration are performed equally simply;
  • For finishing work, you need a minimum of the tool. If we facing only the door leaf, without slopes, then there is enough drill and screwdriver;
  • Missing MDF card from spots and other troubles as simple as outdoor laminate;
  • Door pad does not require additional fit and refinement, the product is immediately sold with fixed dimensions according to door standards. If you have a canvas not standard, you can use several small cards or order a panel according to its size;
  • In the serial factory doors, MDF panels are inserted into special grooves, so if you disassemble the old door, see if you have such grooves. The principle is simple, the side clamp is removed, after which the old panel shifts to the side and pulls out, and the new is inserted into its place.

When you choose a new MDF "Shirt" for your doors, keep in mind that the inner finish can be performed by any panels, and only a special MDF panel can be observed outside the door. The back side of the outer cards is green, and in the inner yellow. The result of such an error is shown in the photo below.

The result of the wrong choice of MDF cards.

In the elite sector for finishing the entrance doors, MDF panels coated with veneer veneer are used. Veneer is a thin cut of wood, respectively, if they cale the MDF panel, then it will not differ from the natural board.

It turns out that you will make elite wooden doors for acceptable money, for example, from oak. Of course, a veneered card is not cheap, but compared to a natural array, the difference will be at least 2 times.

But there is a small, but substantial subtlety: if you want to get a really natural veneer, then look for among domestic or Belarusian manufacturers.

The veneered MDF panels are practically no different from the natural tree.

Most European firms produces cards covered with the so-called eco veneer. If you do not go into details and smeared promotional tinsel, then eco veneer is just high-quality plastic in which there is some kind of wood percentage.

There is still a veneer under the wisdom name "Fine Line". So, if you are offered, for example, a sponied "Golden Oak" panel Made by Final Line technology, then know that the cunning manufacturers have not taken a road or a lip, cut off with it and after painting and processing this veneer suddenly became gold Oak.

Approximately the same story with a multi-touch, but it is visible to the naked eye. The drawing there is pretty abstract, cubes, waves, circles and a lot of other options, but it is natural wood, only compressed, glued and chopped, here already on an amateur.

Leather upholstery

Many people have a quilted skin cover associated with the Soviet design. Really, if you take a cheap dermantin and wore the doors to them, then the view will not be the best, but do not rush to discard this option, with a reasonable approach, the quilted upholstery may look luxurious.

Doors finished with natural soft skin now you will not meet because it is very expensive. For the trim, a new material under the name of eco-leather is used, this material is a synthetic coating that is visually and the power is not different from the real skin.

From quilted facing, in addition to a solid appearance, there are 2 tangible advantages: first of all this additional insulation, and secondly, serious sound insulation. Although for domestic cats and dogs, quilting upholstery is worth the first in line for a break.

Karetny tie refers to the elite finishing of the entrance doors.

It is easiest to take eco-skin and shelter the sheet of plywood, but to use foam rubber as a filler. If you want to get a really luxurious door, then for this there is a carriage screed, make it harder, but the result is worth it.

Detailed instructions on budget trimming doors and arrangement of a luxury carriage with video and step-by-step photos are.

If you decide to buy soft panels for doors, then keep in mind: high-quality upholstery is made from a solid canvas. If you are offered a quilted panel stitched from pieces, then know that this is a cheap low-quality product.

Powder staining

Powder staining of doors is impossible to make at home with their own hands. This is a high-tech process, the metal is cleaned, processed and apply a special paint, after which the door is "delivering" in the furnaces, as a result, the surface acquires unique protection.

A fine-crystalline film is formed on the metal surface, which is easily clean and reliably protects the doors from corrosion. Manufacturers claim that such a cladding is impossible to scratch, we do not know whether these assurances of reality correspond to these assurances, but animal claws powder paint withstands without problems.

Hammer paint is a good alternative to powder staining.

A good alternative to powder staining can be hammer paint, it is possible to paint the doors with your own hands and at the same time it will be no worse than that of powder spraying. According to you learn how correctly disassembling doors, how to wash the metal from rust, and most importantly, how to paint the doors yourself.

Lining

The lining for different types of finishes has been used for about 100 years and despite such an old age, it is still in leaders. Neat wooden planks are connected by spike-groove technology. Pluses the lining is quite a lot.

  • The clapboard can be performed both outdoor and inner finish of the doors, the truth for the outer decoration the tree will have to be treated with complex soil and lacquered for external work;
  • The material is 100% environmentally friendly;
  • Natural tree will never come out of fashion, with proper care, such doors will always look fresh and original;
  • Mounting technology lining is quite simple and available for any home master, we can assure you that even if you have never dealt with the clap, during the day you will go around my entrance door during the day;
  • Planks can be combined as you want, as a result, your door will be different in the original pattern.

Having separated iron doors with clapboard beginner masters, often do not know how to fix planks on the metal. So from the inside the lining is fed to the fastened wooden crate, which in turn is attached to the ribs and the inner door frame.

Outdoor facing is prepared separately, first the lining is screwed into small self-drawing to the plywood sheet, and then this shield is attached to a metal sheet. In order to securely fix the facade shield, in the metal sheet it will be necessary to twist with a dozen holes and on the inside, fasten it with self-draws.

For those who are going to do everything with their own hands, there is a good instruction in which it is described in detail how to enjoy the front door four relatively simple ways, it is located.

By the way, the lining can not only wooden, now produce many options for plastic lining. It is possible to theoretically to tinker plastic doors, but such a cladding is not all like it, plus the strength of the plastic is not high.

A few words about finishing slopes

Sleeps call a part of the wall that framed the doors or windows, respectively, until the slopes are made, the door cladding cannot be considered over. In this case, experts identify 4 running options for slopes.

  1. The most reliable and durable is shuttering. Such a slope will emit not one dozen years, but plastering is not everyone on the shoulder, plus it is a rather dirty process;

Outcasting requires certain skills.

  1. No less reliable is the trimming of slopes of plasterboard. Glkl sheets can be mounted on the crate and glue to a special construction mixture, but after mounting the plasterboard must be sure to be placed;

  1. Another popular way to finish door slut is the installation of the crate. Everything is simple, a doomle is stuffed to slightly, and already on the crate can be mounted all that you consider the necessary - plastic, MDF, GKL, Phaneur, lining, etc.

  1. But the most popular now the option is the telescopic slopes from MDF. They are a kind of designer. Depending on the thickness of the wall, the width of the Dobly Plank is chosen and the entire design is set in a couple of hours, the problem is only that the telescopic slopes are much more expensive than others.

About how in practice there are slopes, you can find out.

Output

The choice of upholstery for metal doors is responsible, because it largely indicates the owner status. By accepting the decision, carefully weigh all the advantages and especially the disadvantages described above the materials and let your door be the most beautiful in the district.

Choosing a metal door finish is responsible.

Recently, old houses, as well as new buildings, are lined with decorative facades.

This is done so that the built building looks finished and beautiful.

The most recent direction is siding.

Today we will talk to you how to properly fade a metal house. Consider the installation, advantages and disadvantages, as well as perform some calculations.

Types of siding

According to the material used, siding is divided into types:

Characteristics of metallic siding

Types of metal used

Panels for lining houses and buildings are performed from various types of metals:

  • Aluminum.
  • Steel.
  • Zinc.

Widespread practical application steel metal panels.

They are usually covered with paint with protective varnish, or polymer composition. Aluminum, zinc and with polymer coating panels are much more expensive than painted steel.

Types of available sizes

Types of external attractiveness

During the production of metallic siding, you can give any shape in the form of a rounded tree, or in the form of brick masonry. That is, set any texture, relief, color and shade.

Also, the material has perforations along the top edge, which makes it possible to simplify the installation process on the frame, as well as hides the hats of self-tapping screws for aesthetic beauty. Plus, this perforation reduces the voltage on the plates arising from expanding and compressing from thermal oscillations.

Also in these plates there are special holes intended for removing extra moisture from the skin.

Calculation of materials and components

Before buying material, you should draw up a plan-scheme with clear sizes and calculations of the amount of material.

To do this, on a piece of paper, we make a detailed drawing, indicate the height of the building, the width of the walls, dimensions and doors. To count the number of elements, you should learn the useful area.

It is calculated by the formula:

S total \u003d s walls - s opening

If you are planning a brick house and do it yourself with your own hands, it is good to make a scheme of location of the material strips on the walls. Also, this scheme will help when installing.

Now we will calculate the auxiliary components:

  1. Finish and starting rails. By name, it is clearly used, for fastening the initial panel and for the final completion of the installation of the panels. It is calculated so, the length of the perimeter of the house is divided into the length of the rail, and we get the right amount.
  2. Internal and external corners. Apply to design corners of buildings. For registration it is better to use entire guides, since the seams will be visible, and the aesthetic appearance will be disturbed. Therefore, the number of angles is equal to the number of profiles.
  3. J-profile. Used as the completion of the vertical plane of window, door openings and diagonal frontones. It is the length of all listed elements in the route meters and is divided by the length of the J-profile.
  4. N-profile. Apply to connect the panels themselves. Usually sold by the piece. The number can be calculated by your scheme.
  5. Window profile. Apply in cases where the depth of door or window openings is deeper than 20 mm. You can use as an alternative to the J-profile if its width corresponds. Also selling pieces.
  6. Platbands. Use for finishing openings. Sold by the piece.

It should be noted that like most materials, siding should be bought with a 10-15% margin in order to protect yourself from additional costs.

And also various parties of the same color may differ with shades and pick up the color gamut will be very hard.

Pros and cons of metallic siding

Dignity

Consider the main advantages of metal:

  • Ideal for any climatic conditions. The ability to operate in temperature ranges from -50 to +50 degrees Celsius.
  • When using siding, we create that it allows the wall and insulation to freely remove the surplus of moisture, and hence the fungus and mold does not appear.
  • The service life of more than 50 years.
  • High durability and practicality. Siding is not affected by direct sunlight. Absolutely non-combustible material, but thanks to high-quality coating it does not rust.
  • The ability to work at any time of the year. Ease of finishing of houses with complex geometry.
  • Simplicity and speed of installation technologies. The ability to perform work with your own hands.

disadvantages

Now consider minuses:

  • Since metal does not heat, a layer of insulation will be required.
  • Bad indicators. When it rains, you can hear the rain drops on the metal trim.
  • With mechanical exposure, dents are possible. Replacing the element - the process of time consuming, and it is almost impossible to exit.

How to shelter home metal siding

Preparation

Like any installation process, this also starts with the preparatory process.

  1. To do this, remove all the decoration elements from the wall surface (drainage pipes, television antennas, etc.).
  2. If the house is old, it will be necessary to clean the walls of dirt, close all visible defects (chips, cracks).
  3. Also, experts recommend handle walls. For this often use. But only the surface should be treated with the basement.
  4. Next should be marked. This is done so that the vertical guides are perfectly set. This will require a building level and pencil. The interval between the racks is chosen equal to the width of the insulation or the length of the siding. But usually this distance is 50-60 cm.
  5. Also for the convenience of installation, the location of the fastener should be placed and install the lighthouse. Horizontally space for fasteners is marked every 50 cm, and vertically every 80 cm.

Okeekhet

After all the preparatory work, we proceed to the installation.

  1. For this, attaching brackets, they are installed on the substrate from, fasteners with anchors or dowel of nails.
  2. Following the guides on the brackets, for this we use ripples or screws.
  3. The installation of vertical racks is carried out according to the following scheme: first set the extreme racks at the corners, and then stretch the thread or fishing line and set the remaining guides.
  4. Periodically control the level of the plane. As guides, it is better to use a metal profile, and not wooden bars. Since even a well-processed tree will start rotting and chant.
  5. In order to speed up the process of assembling the crates should be used. There is one nuance, if the length of the guide is missing, it should not be shown closely, it is necessary to withstand a distance of 1 cm. This is the so-called technological gap.

Insulation

The next step is the laying of the insulation between the profile.

You can fix the insulation with the help of fungal dowels. Thickness and density depends on the region. If you are using polystyrene, then all seams and cavities should be made by mounting foam.

On top of the insulating material, the membrane material is laid, which provides condensate output from the insulation. The joints of the material must definitely skim the construction tape.

Installation of additional elements

Before fixing the siding itself, the auxiliary elements should be installed. So, first secure base plums. From below, set the starting bar, and on top of the final. In the corners, install angular profiles.

In places of joints of the panels, install naschelniks. Experts are recommended in places of corners, joints on the frame to apply sealing tapes, which then lit siding and protect the inner elements from snow and rain. We framed window and doorways.

Now you can proceed to install on the facade of the building of the first row of siding, to the starting bar. Mounted with screws in profile holes on top of the panel. The self-sufficiency is located strictly in the middle of the holes and are not tightened until it stops. By this we make the panel moving as a result of temperature fluctuations. After installing the subsequent row and so while we do not collect the entire covering system.

After the process of installing siding, it should be wiped with a dry cloth.

Conclusion

In this article, we examined in detail the advantages, disadvantages and the process of metal installation. We have determined that the installation is not complicated and you can spend your own hands.

Only you should see photos and video materials, before work. Any room covered with metallic siding looks colorfully and modern according to the selected style.

Moreover, the average value of the material for 1 sq. M. will be 400-500 rubles. And you can make installation on your own.