To date, the market has a fairly large number of different window sills, which are made of plastic, wood and other materials. Installation of such structures by specialists will be expensive, because many people want to know how to properly install a window sill with their own hands.

How is a plastic window sill installed?

The plastic profile is an environmentally friendly material, and all structures that are made from it undergo careful control.

Such window sills have many advantages:

1. The structures are light in weight.
2. They are easy enough to install.
3. Such designs do not need to be painted.
4. Plastic products are impact resistant.
5. Resistant to heat and light.
6. Do not rot.
7. Products practically do not ignite.

Such structures can be installed even by a person who does not have the appropriate work experience, and special tools will not be needed. Plastic window sill can be installed on any window in the room or on the balcony.

To properly mount such a window sill with your own hands, you need to know the sequence of actions.

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Existing methods of installing a window sill

To install a plastic structure, it is necessary to measure the parameters of the window.

There are several options for installing such structures. In the first case, the window sill is fixed with a special compound. This method is outdated and is rarely used today, as other, more modern and convenient mounting methods have appeared.

In order to be able to quickly, self-tapping screws should be used. In this case, it will be necessary to drill a hole in the frame into which the fasteners are installed. The joint should be treated with a silicone-based sealant. The extreme part of the window sill starts under the frame and is attracted by self-tapping screws. The rigidity of the structure can be given with special linings. The place under the window sill must be treated with mounting foam.

In the process of mounting such structures, metal spring clips can also be used. They should be screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws. The product is installed in the groove that is formed between the frame and the fastener.

The latter method will not use any extras such as self-tapping screws or staples. This method is labor-intensive, but the most reliable. The principle of installation is that special linings are installed under the structure so that its edge fits snugly under the window frame.

The last 3 methods are used quite often. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. For example, it is impossible to fasten a plastic window sill to self-tapping screws if the sash opens. All methods differ only in the way PVC window sills are inserted into the frame, all other stages of work are identical.

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How to do preparatory work?

The first step is to purchase all the necessary tools and materials. The quality of the work performed will depend on the quality of the tools used.

Items you will need:

1. PVC profiles.
2. Self-tapping screws.
3. Silicone sealant.
4. Mounting foam.
5. Spring clips made of metal.
6. Linings.
7. Simple pencil.
8. Building level.
9. Saw or electric jigsaw.
10. Metal strips.
11. Masking tape.
12. Polyurethane foam.
13. Nails.
14. Screws.

In order to correctly install the structure for PVC windows, measurements should be taken. Strength and how well the structure will cope with its functions depend on the measurements. If measurements are not taken correctly, the design will not have the best appearance.

You should know that it will not work to fix the installed window sill made of plastic or wood in case of incorrect measurements. In this case, all installation work will need to be done again.

In the process of measurements, it is necessary to take into account the properties and characteristics of the plastic, as well as a number of some other parameters. These parameters include the height of the batteries located under the windows. If the distance between the two structures is small, then the air circulation will be disturbed, as a result, the microclimate will deteriorate greatly.

When measuring the window sill to be installed, it is necessary to take into account the fact that its length should be several centimeters longer than the width of the window. The width of the structure can be chosen based on your own preferences, but the distance between the wall and the window sill should not be more than 8 cm. If the window sill is wide, this may affect the functions of the radiators. In the process of determining the dimensions of the structure, it is necessary to check the air circulation that forms in this area.

The products are installed close to the plastic window, therefore a special profile must be fixed on them, which will be used to fix the ebb.

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How to trim a window sill?

The design can be purchased ready-made or cut out of plastic yourself. If the window sill is cut out of PVC, then the profile must be purchased with a margin of about 5 cm.

The first step is to check the product for defects, as they can spoil the appearance. In some cases, it may be necessary to cut the structure to fit the size of the opening. To do this, first of all, you need to correctly mark the window sill. You can do this with a simple pencil.

The maximum length of the plastic structure is 3 m. The width of the product varies between 25-70 cm. If the width of the structure is too large, then the excess can be cut off from the part with which it is attached to the wall. Cut lines need to be given special attention. It should pass 0.5-1 cm behind the stiffeners, which are located inside the product. In this case, the window sill will be able to fit snugly into the window frame. The rear part of the structure should go under the window and be firmly supported by wedges and construction foam. If the extreme part of the product loses the stiffening ribs, then the inner base will not be able to maintain the necessary shape at the junction, as a result of which it will bend inward.

The window sill can be cut with a saw or an electric jigsaw. You can also use a hacksaw for plastic. You need to cut carefully, do not press hard on the tool so that scratches or other defects do not appear on the structure. Small pieces of plastic can get into your eyes. To avoid this, you should know the safety rules. You need to cut the plastic in goggles and work gloves.

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How to lay the lining?

To install the lining, bars should be used. They will take the load from the windowsill. If there are potholes or cracks, then you should use mounting foam. At this stage, it is important to check the fit of the product to the frame, as this indicator will guarantee the strength and reliability of the structure.

Slopes are installed. Their lower part must be cut down to the wall, after which the installation site must be cleaned of debris. The bars on which the window sill will be held should not go beyond the wall. Blades are best fixed immediately. Thus, it will be possible to form a groove into which the window structure will be installed. The window sill should be adjacent to the window frame. The gap between the structure and the walls should be less than 4 mm.

The part of the window sill that protrudes beyond the slopes should adjoin the wall tightly, since gaps are not allowed.

To prevent the structure from deforming, metal strips must be mounted under it. These products must fit into the bottom plug of the product.

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How to install window sills on plastic windows quickly and correctly

The inner window sill is an essential element of any window. It is officially considered that this part of the structure is necessary for additional insulation of the lower joint of the window frame with the wall and giving the window a finished look. In this article we will talk about what window sills are and, since plastic windows occupy at least 50 - 70% of the market, I will dwell on how to properly install a window sill on plastic windows.

What are window sills

By and large, if the craftsmen installed the window frame with high quality and foamed the bottom gap well, this sector no longer needs special insulation. Therefore, the owners are usually more interested in the question of how respectable this or that window sill will look, and of course the price of this pleasure.

Many inexperienced owners believe that since their windows are plastic, then the rest of the fittings must also be installed from PVC (polyvinyl chloride is popularly window plastic).

In fact, you can put any window sills here, the main thing is that they fit the design and you have enough money for them. Therefore, before putting a window sill on plastic windows, it will not be superfluous to familiarize yourself with the main offers on the market:

• Naturally, the most popular material is the above-mentioned polyvinyl chloride.. The hollow structure, reinforced with internal stiffeners, is considered to be quite warm and durable. With traditional white windows, it harmonizes almost perfectly, and for laminated windows, you can choose a window sill. Plus, a PVC plate costs quite reasonable money. Plastic is not afraid of moisture and, if the technology is not broken, then it will last as long as the windows;

If the choice fell on PVC, you should not get carried away with savings, they are not expensive anyway. The fact is that plastic, like no other material, is exposed to sunlight. While the window sill is new, everything will be beautiful, but after six months the surface of cheap plastic will change. It will at least turn yellow, and at the maximum it will crack and deform.

• Figuratively speaking, the older brother of polyvinyl chloride is an acrylic-based plastic window sill.. It costs about 3 times more expensive, but the quality here is much better. Whatever one may say, but PVC plate is afraid of high temperatures, unlike it, you can put hot pots on acrylic and even a cigarette butt forgotten on it will not harm the surface. Acrylic board is much stronger, its shiny glossy surface looks more respectable. The colors are brighter here, and the palette is wider;

• The wooden window sill is rightfully considered the patriarch of this trend.. In the public sector, as a rule, pine is used. The range of species in elite window sills is much wider, it can be golden oak, teak and a dozen more exotic types of wood. But to be honest, I do not understand people who put expensive natural wood on plastic windows. And in general, plastic does not harmonize well with wood, except if these windows are laminated to a certain type of wood;

• Window sills made of laminated chipboard or MDF are quite another matter.. In this case, the same plates come here, from which countertops are made, which designers actively use. Chipboard will cost a little less, MDF will come out more expensive. But MDF is more resistant to damp environments and I always recommend installing it. Since installing a window sill if the window is already up, the task for the home master is quite feasible, people are now massively rushing to change the old plastic to the new laminated MDF;

• A polished window sill made of natural stone certainly looks luxurious, but their prices are, frankly, exorbitant. Although if you look, in operation they are not so good. The fact is that natural stone is unpredictable, stains from coffee or red wine can remain on it, any plate always has a critical point, with a light blow to which the plate bursts. Plus, the same granite can often and densely emit a little radiation. Agree, it’s not pleasant enough to install such a “gift” in your own home, and even for a lot of money;

• Both in terms of cost and performance, it is much more profitable to install modern artificial stone. First, in appearance, it often does not differ from natural. Secondly, it is more resistant to mechanical and chemical stress. The reproaches of skeptics that artificial stone is less durable are only partly true. After all, for example, the guarantee for porcelain stoneware starts from 50 to 70 years. Roughly speaking, these window sills can get bored rather than fall apart.

For a story about manufacturers and prices for all existing types of window sills, no article is enough. But since even an amateur can correctly put a plastic window sill, I decided to focus on it. Plus, according to statistics, about 50% of the plastic window market is occupied by PVC window sills.

Below, in order to make it easier for you to navigate, I have compiled a small table that contains the most popular and reliable manufacturers of various window fittings with average prices for the window sills we are interested in.

Company name	Manufacturer country	Average price per linear meter of window sill	Types of design (except for white, it is everywhere)
Moeller	Germany	330 rub.
Werzalit	Germany	350 rub.
Niko-Plast	Russia	560 rub.
Danke	Ukraine	365 rub.	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 11 kinds
Melenger	Russia	960 rub.	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 12 kinds
crystalite	Russia	345 rub.	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 16 types
Montblanc	Russia	60 rub. (White) 130 rub. (color)	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 10 kinds
Vitrage	Russia	350 rub.	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 14 types

Window sill installation technique

The easiest way is to install or replace a window sill made of PVC and acrylic with your own hands. Installation instructions for MDF, chipboard and natural wood are not much more complicated. As for natural or artificial stone, it is better to entrust these materials to professionals, since not every master is able to install them.

Dismantling the old stove

Naturally, before replacing an old, obsolete window sill with a new one, you must first dismantle it. Do not be afraid, this is a simple matter, but responsible. After all, the more carefully you remove the stove, the less hassle will be with the preparation of the base.

• If there is a wooden window sill, then to dismantle it, you will need a hacksaw and a pry bar or a small crowbar. It’s not worth knocking out the board with a mount right away, you can severely damage the slopes and then you have to mess around with them. It is better to make 2 or 3 cuts and pull out the central part. At the same time, on the sides you will have small pieces walled up in slopes. These pieces must be carefully knocked out with several blows from the side, at the butt;

I am often asked if it is possible to replace a hacksaw with a grinder? So in no case should you do this. Remember, perhaps the largest number of injuries and injuries from an angle grinder is obtained precisely when trying to cut a tree with an angle grinder.

• But in the case of a reinforced concrete or stone slab, a grinder with a diamond disc will be exactly what you need. In this case, in addition to it, a weighty hammer or a small sledgehammer will also come in handy. First, the grinder makes several cuts, if possible through. After that, take a hammer and knock out all this “cutting” with blows from the bottom up. The remains are cleaned with a mount;

• Fastening a plastic window sill is considered one of the weakest. But before you remove such a plate, you should first dismantle the ebb (outer window sill) and check if our plastic is screwed with self-tapping screws from the outside. If they are there, then naturally they will need to be unscrewed. If there are none, then you just have to carefully cut the mounting foam under the slab and try to pull out the window sill, moving it down and towards you at the same time.

A few words about preparing the foundation

Whether you are changing an old design or working from scratch, before you mount anything new, you must definitely prepare the base. In fact, all preparation consists in cleaning up dust and debris, as well as puttying large potholes, if any.

Some masters advise to make an even screed under the window sill, supposedly on its basis it will be easier to level the slab. I tried to install both with and without a screed, on a bare base.

I'll tell you honestly, there is nothing reprehensible in the screed, you can do this, but it's a pity the time spent on it. Indeed, by and large, there is no difference in whether you put wooden wedges on a flat base or on a curve. And if you plan to install on alabaster or cement-sand mortar, the arrangement of an even screed generally loses its meaning.

Let's start installation

Installation of a window sill always begins with a fitting. Of course, ideally, it is better to install the window sill even before the slopes are arranged, while the walls are bare, but this happens only in new buildings.

Since we are talking about how to change the old to the new, we will have to cut, or rather, knock out grooves in the side slopes. There is one interesting nuance here. The instruction recommends that before placing the window sill to the plastic window, make wide lateral tolerances, approximately 5 - 7 cm from each edge.

That is, we need to make side grooves in the slopes with a depth of 5 - 7 cm along the outer edge. It is believed that this is allegedly more elegant. If you need to cultivate 1 - 2 windows, then these visits to the walls will not play a big role.

It is a completely different matter when the task is to fully equip all the windows in a fairly large private house, and funds are limited. In this case, an addition of 10 cm on each window, at the end, will result in a whole extra window sill.

Personally, I always recommend making lateral tolerances of no more than 20 - 30 mm. Believe me, this is quite enough to ensure a decent appearance. Moreover, curtains are hung on most windows in residential buildings and apartments, which will completely cover all these tolerances.

The side grooves themselves are knocked out to the tolerance depth, that is, to the distance at which the plate will go inside the slope.

In order to accurately mark and not grab too much, you need to take a square, attach it to the window frame and draw a horizontal line starting from the upper cut of the groove under the window sill and ending with the outer cut of the slope. This will be the upper limit of our groove.

The easiest way is to make cuts on the slopes with a grinder to the desired depth, and then knock out the excess with a puncher or a chisel with a hammer.

Plastic window sills can be installed in two ways, with and without fixation on the window frame. The only difference is that in the first version, the inner end of the window sill, the one that is adjacent to the window frame, is first rigidly fixed on this very frame. Further, the entire installation algorithm is completely identical.

When marking and trimming the window sill, it should be noted that it should not protrude beyond the cut of the wall by more than 5 - 7 cm. And under the frame itself, the plane is immersed by a maximum of 1 - 2 cm.

Fixing on the frame is extremely simple. In the place where the window sill will be adjacent to the frame, in increments of 300 - 400 mm, a series of through holes is made along the horizon. After that, the window sill is pressed against the frame and from the side of the street, it is screwed through these holes with long self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws must enter the body of the plate by at least 20 - 30 mm.

But it is not always possible to screw the plate with self-tapping screws to the frame. In this case, it is simply inserted under the frame. To enhance the thermal insulation, immediately before strengthening the slab, I apply a couple of strips of mounting foam to the place of its installation.

The installation of a plastic window sill itself looks something like this: first we insert the plate we cut out and see how it will lie in the future. There is no need to worry about the curvature along the horizon. After all, the plate is adjacent to the lower edge of the window frame, which is already set to the horizon.

But we need to slightly tilt the plate inside the room, so that if necessary, water does not accumulate, but flows freely from the windowsill. How much I have come across, in different sources, the value of this angle is interpreted differently. Personally, I make a slope in the region of 5 mm in width.

The inclined plate itself will be based on wooden wedges. These wedges are usually installed at a distance of about 300 mm from each other. Each of them is cut and adjusted individually and should fit snugly, without gaps.

As mentioned earlier, the plate sits in a groove under the window frame on the mounting foam. Then it rests on the wedges we installed. But before fixing it completely, check again that it stands firmly, without distortions and play. It is better to tinker with the fit of the wedges now than to constantly cover up the cracks later.

To increase the adhesion (adhesion) of the mounting foam with any surface, this very surface must be well moistened.

The slab is fastened by filling the voids under it with mounting foam. And do not try to blow out too much foam, it will not be better from this, because the excess will come out anyway.

As you know, the mounting foam expands when it hardens, and if this feature of it is not taken into account in time, then your window sill can be squeezed out in the middle. So that such an opportunity does not happen, after filling the gaps with foam, you need to put a load of about 15 - 20 kg on the windowsill. It should stand for at least 10 - 12 hours.

At the last stage, the load is removed, the excess foam squeezed out from below is cut off, and the hard-hitting cracks on the sides in the slopes are puttied. The only thing left to do is enjoy your work.

Installation of wood and its derivatives

As I already mentioned, installing window sills made of natural wood, MDF or chipboard is not a little more difficult than installing plastic. Here, in the same way, it is necessary, after marking, to knock out the grooves in the slopes.

The window sill itself, if the frame design allows, it is desirable to fix it on the frame or on the base profile, which is placed under the frame. As in the case of plastic, this is done using self-tapping screws, through through holes.

But in this case, there is one small nuance: there is such an interesting physical quantity as the coefficient of thermal expansion of the material. So, when we put a plastic window sill on a plastic window, there is nothing to be afraid of, because this coefficient is the same for them.

But in the case of joining different materials, as a result of a mismatch in thermal and moisture expansion, gaps and cracks may appear over time. Therefore, we will need to glue the so-called damper tape to the end of the plate, which is designed to compensate for these fluctuations.

Naturally, this tape is glued or attached to the brackets, only in places of direct contact with the body of the slopes and the window frame. Traditionally, the material for such a tape is felt impregnated with an antiseptic. Although now some craftsmen use penofol (polyethylene foam).

Wood, chipboard or MDF is heavier than plastic, so I personally prefer to use gypsum mortar instead of mounting foam, it's more reliable. Instead of gypsum, with the same success, you can install the slab on a cement-sand mortar, diluted in a ratio of 1: 3.

In this case, the instruction will look something like this. We knock out the grooves in the slopes, try on the slab and grind the required number of wooden wedges under it. After that, we apply the solution to the base. The solution layer should cover the wedges by 5-10 mm.

Further along the line of docking with the frame, we apply a couple of strips of mounting foam. We insert the window sill with a damper tape and press it until it rests on the wedges. We remove the excess of the squeezed out solution and putty the cracks on the slopes at the junction with the slab.

If everything is done correctly, then the window sill will stand firmly. But some masters prefer to play it safe. They hammer a long nail into wooden wedges from below in such a way that it passes through and looks out from above by 10 - 15 mm. The wooden wedge itself is fixed to the base with an anchor.

As a result, when you finally insert the slab, it sits on the nails sticking out of the wedges and fastens tightly. A worthy method.

The only downside here is that before installation, you need to carefully measure and check everything several times. Otherwise, in case of an error, almost everything will have to be done again, because the nails will no longer allow you to move or adjust the plate.

Conclusion

Now you know how to install a window sill on plastic windows. The photos and videos in this article provide additional information on this topic. If you have any questions, leave them in the comments, let's talk.

October 17, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

A window sill is a part of a window opening that performs a practical and decorative function. Before attaching the window sill to the plane of the plastic window, it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory measures. This work is performed by specialists when installing the window, but with the appropriate knowledge and skills, the task is implemented independently. To do this, you need to consider several important aspects and features.

The window sill retains heat and prevents the penetration of cold air from the street into the room. On the practical side, this element is a place to place indoor plants, photographs, household items, and products with a large surface area can even become a place to relax and read books.

There are several types of window sills, each of which differs in characteristics, appearance and service life. Monomaterial window sills include products made of marble, wood, stone and granite, while composite window sills are made of MDF, PVC and chipboard.

Plastic

A PVC window sill is usually rectangular in shape, usually in a white shade, although there are options for other colors. It is possible to make a window sill in the shape of a semicircle, but it is impossible to find suitable plugs.

The maximum width is 800mm and the minimum is 20mm. The length can be from 1.5 to 6 meters. In production, before being sent to the recipient, it is reduced to the required value. The advantages of such models include:

• normal shock resistance even at sub-zero temperatures;
• high thermal insulation qualities;
• resistance to moisture and sunlight;
• strength due to stiffening ribs;
• resistance to thermal effects, mechanical stress, scratches;
• ease of installation.

The main coating is melamine. The substance improves technical characteristics and protects against negative environmental conditions. The budget option for coating is PVC film. The material does not burn, shows resistance to ultraviolet waves and does not deform at temperatures up to +60 degrees. The options for using window sills have expanded significantly thanks to the acrylic coating, which imitates precious woods and other natural surfaces.

Wood

Natural wood products are made from various species, including oak, chestnut, pine, beech, ash. Proper processing of the material makes the window sill protected from moisture and resistant to other negative factors. The absence of harmful components in the composition and the noble appearance are the main advantages of such models. In terms of cost, pine will be the cheapest option; cherry, oak, and ash belong to the premium price segment. Additionally, the surface is covered with a protective varnish.

Window sill boards made of wood-fiber and chipboard panels (chipboard, MDF) are popular. They are made from moisture-resistant materials, do not require special care and are easy to care for. They are covered with films or veneer under precious woods, stone, in particular marble. The cost of these models is lower than natural analogues, but in appearance they are almost identical. An additional advantage of the wooden analogue is the duration of operation.

Made of artificial stone

The presence of natural materials in the interior of housing is a sign of wealth and wealth of the owners. One of these materials is stone. Its cost allows it to be attributed to the premium class. It is impossible not to note the complexity of installing a stone window sill. A wonderful alternative is artificial stone, it has a relatively small mass and is easy to install.

Manufacturers produce various models with a rich palette of shades, with all sorts of splashes and patterns. For a classic interior, a white stone window panel is suitable. Such a window sill contributes to the respectability and aesthetics of the room. The advantages of the material include high strength, resistance to negative factors and a long service life. If defects appear, the product is easily restored. Modern equipment allows us to produce window sills of any shape.

The disadvantages include the cost, which is much higher than that of models from MFD or chipboard. Due to the use of detergents with abrasive elements, scratches and small cracks remain on the surface. These problems can be avoided if you follow simple rules for care.

Ways to install window sills

Installation is included in the cost of a plastic window and is carried out by experienced specialists. They have a rich list of tools and the necessary skills, but if desired, this procedure can be performed independently. To do this, choose the installation method, which depends on the characteristics of the room and the configuration of the window system. In the past, a special mortar was used to fix the plastic window sill, but this technology has been replaced by more advanced methods.

Mounting on polyurethane foam

Mounting foam is able to absorb moisture, which leads to its destruction. Before installing the window sill, it is necessary to think over the system of hydro and thermal insulation. Corrugated cardboard or polyethylene foam is suitable for this. From the window side, a sealant is applied to the end of the plank, which contains substances against fungus and mold. The product is fixed at a slight slope and supported by wooden bars 40 × 50 mm.

The bars are located at a distance, occupying the space between the auxiliary board and the slope. Then wedges are driven under the edges of the bars. If the window sill is made of wood or MDF, then polyethylene foam pads are placed at the points of contact with the wall. After plastering the slopes, the excess parts are cut off. All cavities under the window sill are sealed with mounting foam. When the substance hardens, beacons, spacers and other accessories are removed.

Using clamps or mounting strips

Fixing the window sill with this method is distinguished by the duration of implementation, but a high level of reliability. To perform the work, you need to have some knowledge and skills. First of all, the difficulty arises with counting the fixators and determining their correct location.

Fixing a window sill to a plastic window in an ordinary room and on a loggia or balcony is practically no different. In an apartment on a high floor, you need to use additional heat-insulating materials that are resistant to strong gusts of wind.

Use of brackets

The bracket is a spring clip for secure fastening of window sills. The element is made of polymeric materials, the possibility of bending guarantees tight fastening. The plate is fastened with a self-tapping screw, which enters the hole made.

The installation sequence of the anchor fasteners of the window sill:

1. The bracket is fixed to the support profile with a self-tapping screw.
2. The number of plates is determined by the geometric features of the product. On average, 5-7 pieces per 1300 mm length is enough. If the length is longer, then the structure must be reinforced with additional brackets.
3. The space under the window sill is filled with a uniform layer of polyurethane foam.
4. The window sill is brought into place and snaps into place after light pressing.
5. The level is adjusted.

Thanks to the use of anchor plates, the likelihood of errors during work is minimized. Plus, fixing the PVC window sill with brackets takes a little time and takes a small amount of effort and finance.

Step by step installation instructions

Depending on the chosen installation method, you need to prepare a list of tools, perform a number of preparatory measures, make markings and ensure good thermal insulation. The further result and speed of installation depends on the quality of the work performed. Fastening any window sill to a plastic window is divided into several stages, each of which is of great importance, and also affects the quality and durability of the window sill panel.

Required Tools

To replace or install a new window sill, you need to prepare a set of materials and tools. The list includes:

• silicone sealant;
• perforator;
• polyurethane foam and hand gun;
• end caps for connecting panels;
• grinder or jigsaw;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• building level;
• cement mortar.

Many home craftsmen have these devices, so special costs are not required. Plugs and additional elements must be included in the kit. If necessary, they can be purchased at a hardware store.

Foundation preparation

Before attaching the window sill to the plastic window, if there is an old bar, it must be removed. The dismantling of the old window sill is carried out using a mount and a hammer. First of all, the lower area of ​​the window opening is cleaned of dust and construction debris. The niche geometry is then adjusted to fit the new panel. Excess parts are removed with a perforator, the surface is built up with cement mortar to the desired height. This method is suitable for correcting side faces.

A gap of 20 mm must be left between the base and the new window sill in order to fix the product with mounting foam. At the junction with the window frame, a thick layer of silicone sealant is applied, due to which voids disappear through which cold air penetrates from the street.

The plastic window sill on the balcony has a large length and a small width, which complicates the installation process. In some cases, the assistance of a second person is required.

Marking and trimming the window sill

After preparing the base, the niche is measured, and, in accordance with the values ​​obtained, the window sill is cut out. A grinder or an electric jigsaw will help you with this task. Then the slab is mounted in place and wedged with wedges made of wood or plastic. The horizontalness of the surface is controlled by the building level.

Installation work

To correct the position, wedges of various thicknesses are used. During the installation process, it should be remembered that the window sill should have a slight slope towards the room - about 2 degrees. This is necessary to remove water from flower pots and condensate to the floor, and not into the window cavity. The gap is filled with mounting foam. For reliable fixing, the plate is pressed down evenly from above with a load, for example, four eggplants with water, placing them at the same distance from each other. The product must be left for 2-3 days. This is enough for the foam to harden.

Excess pieces of foam are cut off. A utility knife does the job well. At first, the window sill cannot be heavily loaded, so as not to knock down the alignment in two planes and not deform the product. On this, the fastening of the PVC window sill to the window frame on the balcony or indoors does not stop, since it is necessary to install plugs and “blow out” the cracks with foam.

Installing plugs and sealing cracks on slopes and under the window sill

At the junction of the window sill and the slope, small gaps and even cracks are formed. It is necessary to deal with them only after installing all the constituent elements of the window structure. Gaps are removed with silicone sealant, the substance is applied in a thin layer. Masking tape should be used to seal surfaces that should not come into contact with silicone.

The side faces of the window sill are closed with end caps. They are sold at any hardware store, but should come in a kit. The protective film is removed from the surface of the panel.

Skilled workers spend several hours installing a window with a window sill; an inexperienced worker takes much more time. At the same time, compliance with certain rules speeds up the process and improves the quality of the final result. Experts give some important advice:

• It is necessary to install a window sill with a protrusion from the slope line of at least 6 cm. If this is not done, the air circulation will be disturbed, which will cause the windows to constantly fog up.
• Mounting foam attaches much better to a moistened surface.
• Measuring and trimming the slab are the most important steps during installation, so they need to be approached carefully and responsibly.
• If contamination appears on the surface, and tooth powder, vinegar, soda, soap and chalk are ineffective, then chemical cleaners are used. Such products can quickly remove contamination from plastic, but aggressive substances can damage its structure. On sale there are special solutions for PVC windows. Despite their gentle action, they cope with old stains, but do not damage the structure of the panel.

Before installing a window sill to plastic windows, you need to determine the material that you will use. The best choice is an acrylic window sill. Unlike ordinary PVC coating, acrylic film is protected from cigarette burns, sand abrasions and other mechanical influences. At the end, the entire list of types of window sills is indicated, we will focus on a plastic window sill.

It is more difficult to install a window sill with your own hands, but at the same time it is cheaper, and you will gain experience. After the installers have completed the installation of windows, you can immediately begin fixing the window sills. The tools you will need to complete the work: building foam, wooden blocks, or plastic inserts, a level, or a corner, a grinder, a puncher or a hammer.

The first stage is the repulsion in the slope of the protrusions for attaching the window sill. In PVC windows, grooves are provided from below, where the window sill should fit, but no one foresaw such a connector in the walls. If you have a large house, then by shortening the distance of the protrusions you can save an entire window sill.

When you decide on the size of the protrusion (a few cm is enough), outline the place where you plan to make them with a pencil. Further, depending on the material, walk the grinder along the lines drawn on the slopes. If the material is not very strong, then a hammer is enough to beat off the protrusions later, if you have concrete walls, then you need a puncher with a set of chisels.

Why is it blowing after installing the window sill?

Do-it-yourself installation does not always go well - everyone has different skills and experience. Remember that before installing the window sill in the opening, you need to make sure that the installers did not leave you a surprise - holes between the window and the wall, small holes, etc. Quickly installing the window sill without checking this nuance, you will never guess why It's cold in your apartment, so be careful.

When you blow out the holes, start cleaning the grooves and the place where the window sill will be installed. Any small pebble can become a major hindrance during installation. After you remove the "large" obstacles, start cleaning the rest of the area - sweep the future parking lot of the window sill with a brush.

Before using the foam, it is important not only to clean the area, but also to moisten it - construction foam acts in places where there is moisture. We recommend that you use a primer for these purposes, just keep in mind that the thickness of the applied layer directly depends on the number of pores in the material. For example, more soil can be applied to aerated concrete than to ordinary concrete - otherwise the place for the window sill will be too wet.

You will need wooden blocks or plastic inserts, which we talked about at the beginning, to equalize the level of the window sill. It should be placed exactly at 90 degrees to the window. Determine the level of the window sill, and then insert your blanks into the voids between the wall and the object to be installed. You can determine the degree both with the help of a level, and with your own hands using a corner.

When you're done measuring, start blowing foam. It is very important that the foam is distributed around the entire perimeter. Please note that after a while it will increase in size and will need to be cut off. This will need to be done taking into account the fact that putty and plaster will need to be applied under the windowsill.

In order for the window sill not to rise due to the increasing foam, it is necessary to install a load on it. An excellent solution would be to install 5-liter bottles of water on the windowsill. Three is enough.

At the end of the installation, seal the joints with sealant.

Price of materials

It does not make sense to take expensive foam, it will do for 250 rubles. If you raise the window sill, you can do without a foam gun, but with it the process will be simplified. Its cost is about 1000 rubles. The primer, according to the idea, should be available in the room where the repairs are being made, but just in case: its cost is 100 rubles. The price of a window sill is from 50 to 1200 rubles per meter, depending on the manufacturer and the quality of the material.

Types of window sills:

1. Monomaterial (wood, granite and other stone, PVC window sills)
2. Composite differ in the material of the board and film.

Types of boards:

• polyvinyl chloride;
• chipboard or fiberboard;
• wood-polymer composite;

Types of films by type of coating:

• polyvinyl chloride;
• veneer;
• laminated paper (High Pressure Laminate, Continious Pressure Laminate, EPL-coating)

Types of films by abrasion:

1. PVC film (paper, varnish)
2. Elesgo film (electron beam hardened surface).

Video

Usually, the installation of a window sill, plastic slopes and low tide occurs immediately after the installation of the window. In most cases, this is done by a team of builders specializing in metal-plastic structures. But there are times when it becomes necessary to install a window sill with your own hands, and how to do it correctly, we will consider in the article.

How to choose a window sill

There are various reasons why there is a desire or need to install a window sill with your own hands:

• The window is in good condition, but the window sill is damaged (dirty, scratched, melted, burned, etc.).
• The old window sill was installed incorrectly.
• There was a desire to install a window sill of a different color. For example, after a renovation in a room, the color of the PVC board does not match the new interior.
• There is a need to replace the window sill with a wider or narrower one. A wider window sill is placed if a large number of items need to be placed on it, for example, flower pots or seedlings. A narrower window sill may be needed if too wide prevents the free movement of warm air from the battery upwards and the circulation of air in the room during the cold season. At the same time, warm air from the battery does not heat the window, it “sweats”, dampness and even fungus appear.
• It is difficult to find a master who will take on such a small amount of work as installing one window sill.
• Installing a window sill on your own is not at all difficult, and you can save money that could be spent on paying for the work of the master.
• It's just nice to make something useful with your own hands.

Important!A wide window sill visually enlarges the room and its usable area.

So, if it became necessary to replace the PVC plate, you need to know that window sills are different:

• colors, in addition to light and dark shades, there are imitations of stone and precious woods;
• dimensions: width from 110 to 800 mm, length from 4050 to 6000 mm, thickness from 18 to 22 mm;
• company and country of origin;
• price (from 3 to 20 dollars per linear meter);
• the quality of the material - polyvinyl chloride, including wear and scratch resistance, heat resistance, moisture and steam resistance, UV resistance, environmental friendliness, strength.

Did you know? Polyvinyl chloride has a very wide application. PVC is even used to make condoms for people with latex allergies.

In addition to the window sill itself, it is necessary to purchase two end caps that are installed on the side sections of the window sill at the final stage of installation work. If there is a need for a direct or corner connection of two window sills, you should purchase a universal corner connector for PVC boards.

Required Tools and Consumables

For high-quality installation of a plastic plate with your own hands, you will need the following tools and consumables:

• Metal square.
• Marker or pencil.
• Roulette.
• Primer.
• Bulgarian, jigsaw or hacksaw.
• Hammer drill (optional, only if the slope material is dense concrete).
• Chisel and hammer.
• Brush.
• Building level.
• Construction foam and gun.
• A set of plastic substrates or wooden blocks.
• Cement, gypsum mortar or glue to set the bars to the required height or to raise the level of the base.
• Sealant.
• Masking tape.
• Stationery knife.

Installation process

Regardless of whether the window sill is installed by a specialized installation team or a novice person in this business, the entire process of installing a PVC plate can be divided into several stages.

Preparatory stage

The place where it is planned to mount the PVC plate should be prepared, namely the lower part of the window opening and the side window slopes. The window sill should slightly enter the wall on the sides, therefore, in the slopes, it is necessary to cut connectors 1-2 cm deep on each side in order to bring a plastic plate there. To do this, the window sill is applied to the wall and marks are made for cuts with a pencil or marker. Next, carefully select the grooves so that the window sill freely enters them. This work requires accuracy, so as not to restore grossly damaged slopes and not to close up large holes in the slopes.

Important! In order to minimize the procedure for restoring slopes, you should treat them as carefully as possible during the installation of the window sill.

If the corners of the slopes were leveled using metal perforated corners, then the metal corner should be carefully cut with a grinder. It is also advisable for a grinder to make a horizontal gash in a slope. The rest of the recess in the wall is conveniently done with a chisel and a hammer. These tools are most suitable if the slope material is gypsum plaster. If the slopes are made of concrete, then the recesses in the slope should be made using a perforator. Side grooves in the slopes serve as additional support for the window sill on the sides.

The lower part of the window opening and the stand profile, which is located under the window frame and is used for mounting the window sill, should be cleaned of pieces of plaster, concrete and brick that appeared in the process of creating grooves in the slopes. Then use a brush to sweep away all debris and dust. The cleaned surface should be moistened. This is necessary for better adhesion of the mounting foam to the surface on which the window sill will be located. It is advisable not just to wet the surface with water, but to use a primer for this purpose. The primer strengthens the surface, removes dust and moisturizes it at the same time. The primer is generously applied to the surface with a brush, impregnating all the pits, bulges, pores, cracks.

Important! In order to prevent blowing from under the window sill, it is necessary to control the quality of foaming of the window frame and, if necessary, eliminate all shortcomings at the preparatory stage of work.

Window sill trimming

AND When washing the finished window sill, it is necessary to cut out a blank for the window sill from it. To do this, you need to calculate the length and width of the future window sill. The length of the window sill must be greater than the length of the surface for the window sill and extend beyond the slopes. The length of these protrusions depends on individual taste preferences, usually 5-7 cm on each side, but you can limit yourself to a protrusion of 1-2 cm.

The blank width is calculated by summing:

• window sill width;
• the depth to which the slab is inserted under the window into the stand profile (usually about 20 mm);
• the protruding part of the window sill, which should not be more than 100 mm, so as not to impede the passage of heat from the battery.

Along the edges of the window sill, rectangles should be cut that prevent the canvas from being slanted. The plastic sheet is cut quite easily. You can choose any tool for cutting: a grinder, a hacksaw, an electric jigsaw. All notches, bumps and other small trimming defects will be covered with plastic end caps.

After the workpiece is ready, it must be tried on in place, that is, put on the lower part of the window opening and brought into the recesses of the slopes and inside the support profile. If during fitting any inaccuracies are revealed, they should be eliminated before the final installation of the window sill.

Gasket installation

Some installers install the window sill strictly perpendicular to the window, using a metal square for control. However, most experts believe that a properly installed window sill should have a slight degree of inclination into the room, so that if moisture appears, it flows down.

To fix the desired option for installing the window sill blank, you need to place plastic spacers or wooden blocks along its plane. Their dimensions must be chosen so that the surface of the PVC plate is perfectly flat. To install one window sill, at least 3 supports are required (one in the middle and two closer to the edges). The distance between the supports should not exceed half a meter. In order to prevent gaskets or wooden blocks from moving, it is advisable to glue them to silicone sealant, gypsum or cement mortar.

Important! The process of fitting and installing a PVC window sill must be constantly monitored by the building level.

The supports of the window sill should be placed at such a level that when trying on the window sill blank, there is no gap between the window sill and the window frame. If, to comply with this requirement, the supports are higher than 40 mm, this is unacceptable. A foam layer exceeding 40 mm will not be of high quality, there will be voids in it, it will not be able to withstand the required load, and the thermal insulation properties will be insufficient. In this case, before placing the lining under the window sill, you need to raise the level of the lower part of the window opening. This can be done with cement or gypsum plaster, self-leveling floor, etc.

Installation

At the preparatory stage of the installation of the window sill, we cleaned the lower part of the window opening, strengthened and moistened with a primer. By the time the window sill is installed, the primer has already dried up, and for better adhesion and acceleration of the foam hardening process, the surfaces that the mounting foam will come into contact with must be wet. Therefore, it is necessary to moisten both the lower part of the window opening and the lower part of the window sill. The PVC board is covered with a protective film. The edges of the window sill, which will be mounted under the window frame and into the openings of the slopes, must be cleaned of the protective film.

On the remaining parts of the window sill, it is advisable to keep the film until the end of all repair work. In order to prevent a blow from under the window sill, the first step is to lightly foam the space between the bottom of the window opening and the window support profile. Then the foam is applied in a wide strip under the far edge of the window sill, and then in dense strips on the entire plane of the base. For the convenience of applying foam, additional extension nozzles are used.

Important! The height of the foam should not exceed the level of the supports placed under the window sill. When foaming, the main thing is not to overdo it.

When solidified, the foam increases in volume so much that it is able to lift the window sill up. To prevent such a nuisance, you need to put some kind of load on the PVC plate. It is advisable to put something flat under the load so that the weight is distributed evenly. The load should be placed on the inner edge of the window sill, since the outer edge will already be firmly pressed by the window block.

Deviation check

Once again we check if there are any cracks, whether the window sill is installed evenly, whether the protrusions are the same at the edges, whether the necessary slope is observed. If small irregularities are found within the first two hours after installation, they can be easily corrected. You may need to make a few gentle blows with a hammer in the right direction, and the formation of holes or bumps can be leveled by moving the load on the surface of the window sill.

Gap sealing

Gaps and cracks appear at the junction of a window sill and a slope, a window sill and a window, as well as a window and a slope. Obviously, it is advisable to correct such shortcomings after all the main elements (window, window sill and slope) are installed.

Gap sealing is carried out using silicone sealant, which is applied in a thin strip at the joints. It is advisable to seal the edges of surfaces on which the sealant should not get in advance with masking tape. Moreover, excess sealant and masking tape should be removed immediately after applying the sealant. Once it dries it will be much harder to do and the result will be less neat. Excess dried foam under the window sill should be removed. Foam is easily cut with a clerical knife. The resulting recess should be filled with ordinary wall plaster.

Excess foam under the window sill must be removed so that the thickness of the plaster layer is at least 1 cm. Such a layer will lie securely and will not be pressed through during further work and operation.

Setting clamps

At the final stage, the side edges of the window sill are protected with end caps, and the window sill itself is cleaned of the protective film.

How to wash a window sill

When common home remedies such as: soap, soda, vinegar, tooth powder, chalk were powerless in the fight against pollution, special chemicals will come to the rescue. The choice of modern household chemicals will be able to cope with any contamination on the plastic surface. You only need to correctly formulate your problem to the sales assistant in the household chemicals department, emphasizing that you need a plastic cleaner.

Careful operation and regular maintenance will help to avoid problems associated with the laundering of difficult contaminants. The main thing is not to use metal scrapers and abrasives: they leave scratches in which dirt then accumulates.

Do-it-yourself installation of a window sill or use the services of a specialized construction team - it's up to you. In fact, the process of installing a window sill is not complicated, but it requires the availability or acquisition of the necessary tools, consumables (the remnants of which may no longer be useful) and work skills. If the first attempt to install a PVC plate with your own hands is unsuccessful, then the total cost of self-installation can be much more than the salary of the master.

Video: how to install a window sill with your own hands

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