During construction and repair, the baths pay primarily on structural materials, ovens, insulation and waterproofing. It is assumed that the natural circulation of air will be sufficient for high-quality ventilation of rooms in the bath. But it is completely different, and if you go to the case superficially, you can encounter serious problems.

Features

Ventilation in the bath can be performed in various ways.

It depends on its presence:

• distribution of heat flows inside;
• comfort and safety of washable;
• the period of operation of the building.

There continuously concentrates water and steam, the tree actively absorbs them into itself.Even if dry the building occasionally periodically, without making a constant movement of air, the effect will be not strong enough. In order not to be damp, it is required to create a pair of ventilation windows - one is used to enter clean air outside, and the other helps to exit a preheated, enlaring a lot of water. Selecting the location of the openings, change areas that are particularly intensively ventilated. The use of the outlet holes in the steam room and the pre-tribades of the output holes is sometimes improving the air flow orientation in the desired direction.

Of course, the magnitude of each window is of great importance, and the ability to adjust the lumen. They put valves open in whole or in part. The calculation of the volume of the ventilation holes is repelled, first of all, from the area of \u200b\u200bthe room of the bath. If you make them too large, on the floor and in the sink, the mold will never appear, but the steam room will warm up for a very long time, it will be extraordinarily a lot of fuel or electrical energy. Too narrow windows will not allow air inside cool or become land.

All deviations from normal parameters are categorically unacceptable.which eliminate the occurrence of powerful temperature differences - this not only creates discomfort, but can also provoke health problems. To completely exclude the difference in flow temperature it is impossible, it is only required to limit their magnitude. Normal ventilation systems are formed during the construction of the bath, and the channels make and prepare openings. The windows are mounted only after the decorative building of the building is performed. Therefore, you will have to enter the Bani Project information about the ventilation channels.

In most cases, ventilation openings are strictly identical. The outlet can be made larger input, but according to the safety rules, it cannot be less than the first. For the same reasons, sometimes resort to pair outlet windows. Not doors should be used as control elements, but valves, when closing which it is impossible to save the gaps. When the steam room warms up for the first time, the valves are locked 100% until air reaches the desired temperature.

The use of elements with a managed position is useful and because the amount of air inflows must be adjusted in accordance with the season. When there are negative temperatures on the street, even a very small stream of air brings a lot of cold. It should not open the ventilation windows completely. The cross sections of such windows on average should be 24 square meters. See 1 cu. m internal volume. But these are only preliminary figures, and when doubtful in the resulting result, it is necessary to refer to qualified heat engineers for calculations.

It is categorically impossible to put the ventilation windows at one height or even directly opposite each other, as it will not allow to warm the entire air in the bath to sufficiently. In addition, such a design will not allow to evenly mix air masses, which means it will be necessary to thoroughly calculate the accuracy of the location of the ventilation elements. Exhaust windows are recommended to be placed just below the ceiling, because air after heating immediately rushes upwards.

Types of ventilation systems

The ventilation device in the bath varies according to the design of the room and its total volume. Natural ventilation is based on the difference in temperatures and pressures inside and outside. So that it worked efficiently, the air input is organized near the furnace, at the level of 25-35 cm from the floor. The outlet is made on opposite walls of approximately 15-25 cm below the ceiling. But it is important to consider that such a scheme is not good enough for pairs, because at the bottom there is relatively cold, and is always hot.

Natural air movement in such a situation is too difficult to organize, It will be very carefully and neatly positioned the components of the ventilation system. Forced circuit does not always require the use of electronic control systems, with complex panels and so on. There are simpler options when the ventilation windows placed in a special way are complemented by an exhaust fan. The combination of such components is especially effective when the bath is located inside the house, the windows are not placed inside the outer wall, but are connected with the exit long box for ventilation. Channel fans need to be selected very carefully, because the conditions for their operation in the baths differ from the usual parameters.

The peculiarity of such devices is in high waterproofing of electrical circuits and basic mechanical parts, in the adaptation to operation at high temperature without consequences for technology. The condition of the supply ventilation and its device in each room is adapted to individual features and under the type of bath. It follows that the time spent on the calculations and thinking of the project is not spent in vain - it will save a lot of money and time, get the optimal result rather.

As already known, the bulk of projects implies the location of the introductory windows near the furnaces of 0.25-0.35 m from the floor. With this version, the stove transmits the heat of air from the outside, and the flow moving in the exhaust direction occurs. Overcoming all distance, hot and street streams ultimately cover the entire volume of steam room, and the strongest is heated by the area where the upper shelf is located.

In the second variant, due to the installation of the exhaust fan, you can mount the introductory and outlet holes on one wall. Air flow asked first in the direction of the heating instrument. Having received a thermal impulse, it begins to rise to the ceiling and moves along a wide arc that covers the entire room. This approach will be effective if the bath is built into the house and has only one outer wall, and there is no need to arrange the ventilation box.

If a bath is created with the flowing floor, the introductory window put in the same place where in the first case, directly next to the oven. When the heated air gives heat in the upper share of the steam, it is cooled and lowered to the floor, leaving through the holes in the flooring. This technique improves the evaporation of the accumulating water at thenime and allows you to delay the outlet of the wooden floor. Hood is placed or in the next room, or in isolated channels that do not allow air to return to the steam room. The complexity of the trajectory of the flow makes the use of the fan mandatory. This option is used very rarely, since it is not easy to calculate the details rightfully.

Another type provides for a continuously active furnace, which replaces the hood. For the tributary, they make a window under the shelf opposite to the oven itself and at the same level. Cold air displaces the heated mass up, and when the heat of the flow is lowered, they go into a confusion channel. There are even more complex systems when a pair of supply and a pair of output ventilation windows is placed (necessarily with a forced circulation type). Adjust the complicated complexes are quite difficult, but their effectiveness is higher than in the simplest cases.

BAST system is the placement of the supply holes (with adjustable valves) behind the furnace or under it. The organization of beads under the furnace is not obligatory, although it is very desirable. Through these holes in the room penetrate the air from the underground part of the bath, which is connected by the foundation with an external atmosphere. When the bath is done in the ready-made room, you need to choose a room with a pair of external walls; When preparing the basement, choose an angle corresponding to the same requirements. The size of the input and outlet is calculated by the general rules.

How to do?

Installation of ventilation implies that when the pipe is derived, it is protected from the penetration of snow, dirt, rain and melt water. When it does not work, you can organize a ventilating box or send the pipe to the top, by checking it through the overlap and roof. In the latter case, the channel is covered with an umbrella to eliminate the penetration of the same precipitation and fallen leaves. To make a high level ventilation means to venture and dry all the rooms, structural parts of walls, floors, attics and underpants.

Step-by-step guide for the installation of ventilation in the bath is not difficultHowever, the easiest option is to use asbestos-cement pipes and lattices that are selected in accordance with the diameter of the channel. If we talk about the technical execution, the most efficient and convenient design in the walls of the frame type recognized the use of the supply valves. First, the valve is disassembled and rub the circle marker on the wall, where future ventilation channels will be held. To obtain holes in the trim, the drill is used, and they take the drill of a large diameter, which can safely be a jigsaw knife.

• with the help of the jigsaw itself, the circle is cut;
• remove wooden parts;
• remove the insulating and vapor insulation material;
• with the help of a long drill pierce the external trim (so you need to do so as to prevent errors when placing the outdoor share of the valve);
• place the appropriate opening outside and make it using long drills;
• screw valve tubes over the wall thickness.

Then you need to mount the tube in the hole and consolidate the inner segment of the valve with screws, only after which you can put the outside of the product. The installation of the valves is recommended in the washing department and in the pre-tribbon.

When preparing a new structure, it is necessary to calculate both the magnitude of the holes and the required power of the fans. You can even establish ventilation when it was originally not done. A common error is to rely on the volunteering and the use of furnace thrust for air drying. In principle, such a scheme works, but it has serious shortcomings. So, when opening windows and doors instead of a decrease in temperature, steam emissions are released into adjacent rooms.

He does not go outside, but turns into condensate. Air heating decreases only for a short time, and very soon in the bath again becomes uncomfortable. To enjoy the effect of oven for venting, the holes are needed, but they should be done only at the bottom. This will ensure air flow from adjacent rooms where fresh portions will come from the outside. Adjust the ventilation helps the Sewber and the door of the oven itself, to enhance the tributaries they are open to the limit, and for weakening are covered partially (in order to avoid carbon monoxide).

A simple calculation can be made only with regard to forced ventilation., and the natural flow of air is much more difficult and subordinate to a number of different factors. Among them, special attention should be paid to the strength and direction of wind, which blows on a particular site. If the outlet turns out to be on the other side with which strong winds are directed, this can lead to an inward inwards of the supply mass (the so-called reverse thrust effect or its tipping).

Prevention of such a negative phenomenon seems simple - this is the elongation of channels derived in the desired direction or the use of turns in them. But each turn makes it difficult and reduces the rate of exit or air intake. The solution will be the orientation of the input of the inflow to the side, with which the wind is mainly blowing, when placing the outlet on the opposite side or on the roof (with a high pipe).

Use the ventilation channel in the block wallIn such cases, it is mounted on the inner wall and partition. According to experts, the best air duct is one that is built of galvanized pipes. Plastic structures can be mounted with caution, carefully estimating the range of temperature permissible. The gap from the pipe to the walls of the hole is filled with mineral wool or more modern insulation. Eliminate the gaps at the entrance and the outlet helps the mounting foam.

The method of fastening the ventilation grids is selected by the material that serves as the basis. Checking the quality of ventilation work is very easy - fire or smoking item is made to the hole. This will further find out how fast air is moving. In the pre-jacket place most often only a hood, complemented by a fan.

When the furnace firebox is displayed in the pre-banker, you need to make a special ventilating channel based on galvanized steel, passed under the finishing floors and the liner air directly to the furnace door. Create a channel is needed before the finishing floor will be laid. One edge of the pipe is injected into the hole and fixes in it by mounting foam, clogged with a grid. On the edge suitable for the furnace, set the adjustable plug.

Good ventilation is the one that avoids the occurrence of condensate on the surface of the ceiling. As for the sample, work on it begins with the preparation of a cement screed, which is tilted towards the sewer. The foundation is equipped with a pair of holes (in opposite walls, but not directly opposite each other). The air flows must go under the floor to the most intricate trajectories. The holes are blocked by the valves, which will allow to adjust the tempo of the jet movement according to the current season.

In the bath, which was originally built without floor ventilation, it is required to drill a concrete base right up to the soil. This will be a decent substitute for a full-fledged drainage, when there is no desire to work on the installation of drain pipes. The ventilated floor must be accompanied by jumpers, which use pipes or a wooden timing with a cross section of 11x6 or 15x8 cm. Lags are covered with processed and well-grinded oak boards.

How to choose?

In the Russian bath, in contrast to the usual washer, it is necessary to ensure such conditions using ventilation:

• the temperature in the steam room is from 50 to 60 degrees;
• relative humidity - not lower than 70 and not higher than 90%;
• very fast drying of any wooden surface after the end of washing;
• operational decrease in humidity in the exclusion of drafts and door disclosures;
• the same air quality in the steam room, as well as in the rest room, regardless of the season;
• preserving all the traditional properties of the Russian bath.

No ventilation devices will help escape from carbon monoxideIf his constant inflow is. We will have to continuously monitor the completeness of the combustion of firewood, and only after the attenuation of all coals to block the chimney. The organization of air inflows in a chopped log bath occurs through the wints of the walls.

This approach for obvious reasons is not suitable for brick buildings. When the walls are trimmed with boards or clapboard, it will be necessary to use ventilation holes, otherwise the negative effect of damp will be excessively strong. For the output of pipes to the street in most cases there will be enough holes 200х200 mm. The selection of plastic or metal should be made in accordance with a specific project and operating conditions of the ventilation system.

Bath of foam blocks must be ventilated and inside the walls.The layers of waterproofing and plating are separated by a ventilation gap, it is 40-50 mm for external cladding, and inside the bath is 30-40 mm. A typical design implies the use of a crate, which already helps to keep the walls. In addition to intrauterine ventilation, all rooms are equipped with an air intake at the bottom (most often behind the furnaces) and the outlet (at the ceiling itself). The advantage of the active air refreshment system is that it can be placed anywhere.

In most cases, the foam blocks are carried out by a volleary way, that is, at the same time opening the front door and the velocity remote from it. Only professional calculation is guaranteed to find out whether artificial ventilation is needed or the natural circulation of air masses is needed.

Accessories and materials

A fan heater for a bath must have a certain level of thermal protection (not lower than IP44), its body is always made from materials resistant. Modern devices have very high power and work almost silently, the volume is no more than 35 dB.

In the role of ventilation holes in attics, you can use:

• special windows;
• aerators;
• sophytes.

On our site there is already a big overview material, so now it is worth talking separately about the hood in the bath: about how it works, as it works and how to make it yourself.

Hood in a bath: depending on which bath

Baths are built from a variety of materials, each of which has its own specifics. This affects ventilation systems that have its own characteristics in each case. About their differences in the organization's plan, we will talk below.

Hood in sauna

The sauna or the Finnish bath is different from the Russian small number of steam (it is almost dry bath) and high temperatures (which can reach 130 degrees!). During stay in the sauna there is a clear rule regarding ventilation: the air should vary at least 6-8 times per hour. And this requires good controllability of air flows, replacing the exhaust air fresh in less than every 10 minutes.

The ideal option for the sauna, (convection type). In short, we repeat that it operates on the principle of "inverted glasses":

• ventilation boxstood diagonally from the furnace picks the aircraft air;
• displays it through the roof (wall);
• at the bottom, next to the stove is a supply hole through which fresh air comes;
• the furnace heats the air saturated with oxygen, it rises and distributed through the sauna.

The regulation of streams is performed using dampers governing the openness of the box and the supply opening. An important point at the same time is the constant work of the furnace, because it is it that performs the function of the "pump".

And even if the hood in the sauna is done on another scheme, the task will remain the same:

• controlled frequent air exchange;
• good warming arriving fresh air;
• inadmissibility Fast air flows (more than 0.3 m / s), i.e. skavoznyakov.

In a bath from a log

The log house was invented long before the laws of physics were imposed on which natural ventilation was founded. Nevertheless, the builders of a bath from a cut actively used these laws so that the owners of the baths do not suffocate in the process of the harvest, and the bath stood for her decades. (Of course, hood in a bath from a log will not save her from the fire, but from rot - it may well.) In Siruba, the air flow was provided at the expense of the lower crowns, which deliberately fit freely, that is, there were cracks through which the fresh air was "stretched". In addition, the door to the steam room below looked loosely to the floor.

Depending on exactly how the bath was treated from a log - "in black" or "in white" - depended on and where the exhaust air left.

• In the hubble "black" bath, the stove does not work in the process of the harvest, so an open-in or door was used for outflow.
• In the shaken "on white", the outflow was made through the chimney. The stove worked at the same time.

In principle, nothing prevents organize the ventilation of the cut in a traditional way today. But it is necessary to decide quickly, at the construction stage. Because a more modern solution must be laid in the project. Alternatively, you can break through the holes (intake and exhaust) directly to the street and provide them with plugs or dampers. One next to the stove is confused, the second is above the top shelf on the adjacent or opposite side. Or make two exhaust holes - one above, the other below the top 6. Another option is to make blinds at the bottom of the pair door, and the exhaust hole is under the ceiling shower.

IMPORTANT!If there is no desire to make an outdoor exit, air ducts can be paved, but then instead of the natural will have to put the system of forced ventilation.

In the bath from foam blocks

Flooded bed - not an exception to the rule that says that the ventilation needs to think during the design of the bath. So easier than beat ready-made walls. To provide a bath from cellular concrete to sufficient air circulation, which will save the structure from extra moisture, at the time of filling the formwork of the foundation to lay trimming of pipes, which then become product.

For a bath, which is not in lowlands and is not surrounded from all sides by the buildings, enough two products on the opposite sides, otherwise they do 4. Do not forget about the ventilation gaps between the walls and insulation.

The roof should also be ventilated, getting the inflow from the sinks of the roof and giving the air through a raised horse. In rooms, the supplies and exhaust holes are made according to one of the standard schemes.

In case of insufficiency of natural ventilation on extractor with a bath from foam blocks, fans are recommended.

Hood for a bath: in which separation?

If you leave aside the questions already considered in other articles, questions about the ventilation of walls, foundations and roofs, the premises remain - steaming, washing, pre-banker and a rest room - where you need to organize air circulation. In this case, there are certain standards for ventilation in each of them and the specificity of the manufacture of exhaust. But first things first.

Hood in a steam room

For soaring hood in the bathroom, the babies are the key to the fact that they will come out from there alive and healthy.

IMPORTANT! It is impossible to leave the steam room without the ventilation holes, it is a great risk of causticing or losing consciousness and suffocate carbon dioxide. You can not do only one hole - So the ventilation does not work.

The method of ventilation of the steam can be natural (due to the laws of physics) or forced (at the expense of fans). Holes can lead to the street, in ducts and in neighboring rooms. On the ventilation holes, either blinds or dampers. Air flow can be organized through the bottom of the pair door, 3 cm from the floor or with blinds at the bottom of the door canvase.

It will have to make only the box. Everything else (corrugation, valves, valves, dampers) are on sale. Fans (if necessary) differ in diameter and power. Relay can be used to automatically control forced ventilation. Holes in the wall or left during construction, or make their way in the already constructed bath.

Useful video

See how craftsmen made a box for drawing ventilation from boards:

In washing

According to the already mentioned standards, the circulation of air in the washer per hour should be a multiple of 8 volumes of the room for supply ventilation and 9 - for exhaust. It means:

• that the size of the exhaust hole will be more inlet;
• either the exhaust will be two on one inlet;
• either put on the exhaust fan.

In any case, it is an intense air exchange, which is designed primarily for the rapid drainage of the washing. In the process of washing it is not required, so it is regulated by dampers.

By the way, the intake holes can be made in a pre-tribbon or rest room, and exhaust - in the washing. This will allow you to ventilate two rooms at once. Similarly, the extract is made in the bathroom, and forced to create low pressure. Then the air will be pulled out from the adjacent rooms and go through forced hood. Thus, the rooms are connected through through holes, which on the one hand will be in suction, and on the other - exhaust.

Composite parts of the drawing in the washing bath do not differ from the steamer.

How to make a hood in a bath

It has already been said more than once, and still it is worth repeating: the cost of ventilation arrangement will grow repeatedly if you are late, After completing construction. At the same time, the principle of creating ventilation in the bath remains unchanged: you need to create conditions for the influx and outflow of air from the premises. So, how to make a hood in the bath with your own hands or hands of professionals.

Hood in the bath: Scheme

There are many schemes, but for understanding the principle of ventilation, some one is suitable. Most often suggests the ventilation schemes, but much more interest is the scheme for the entire bath, with explanations.

Look at the sketch. It shows that the ventilation is carried out in a washing, steam room and a rest room. Moreover, air flow is carried out from one pipe into two points, one of which is in the steam room, and the second is in the rest room. The hood is located in the washing, and in the steam room, and the rest room. We describe all the ventilation devices in each room:

1. Wash - Metalplastic window, adjustable exhaust, which carries out air intake through a diffuser located on the ceiling. From there, the air goes through the pipe to the roof.
2. Steam - Insulated Fortochka, located below the shelf, adjustable extractor, which is a vertical box, the intake hole of which 150 cm² is located below the shelf, and the output from the pipe to the street is carried out near the ceiling. One of the channels of adjustable tributary near the stove, the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200b150 cm².
3. Restroom - Adjustable extractoring, which is a box with a cross section of 150 cm², the height of the intake opening of 30-40 cm from the floor, output through the pipe to the street near the ceiling. Adjustable inflow through the second channel with the output near the furnace of the stove.

Do it yourself: how to do

Hood in the bath with your own hands is not what it is impossible to carry out, but it is necessary to go to the matter as prolonged and slowly. In order to independently make an exhaust, you need to prepare according to it. It is also necessary to make the calculation of the section of ventilation pipes.

IMPORTANT! The volume of the inflow should be equal to or be less than the exhaust volume.

To do this, you need to know the size of the room and the ratio of the multiplicity (how many times the air should be updated per hour) - it is in standards. In the main air ducts, the speed should not exceed 5 m / s, in branches - 3 m / s, 2m / s, natural ventilation - up to 1 m / s. Next, in the table we find the value of the pipe cross section, which the desired volume gives the desired volume at a given speed.

Knowing the section, it remains to prepare corrugations or pipes of the corresponding diameter, which are mounted in one end in the room at the desired height according to the scheme, and the other are outdoor. Self-tapes, metal scotch and mounting foam are used for attachment. The holes are supplied with indoor dampers, outlet gratings. By the way, cleaning ventilation should be made once a year.

Useful video

Look at a small roller, where visual ventilation in one bath is shown:

+++
Well, now you know exactly how to make a hood fit in the bath to save yourself, households and guests from suffocation in the bath. It remains only to apply the information received.

In contact with

Ventilation in a Ban from the log: It should be approached very responsible for its arrangement, so that it later was less than the trouble and did not occur when someone became bad in the steam room due to the lack of sufficient oxygen.

The ventilation is mounted parallel to the construction of the building itself, and the choice of this or that its type is made according to the architectural features of the construction.

Ventilation in the bath, made at a qualitative level, provides comfortable conditions for steam lovers, allows you to fully enjoy the bath process

On a note! Ventilation in the bath, made at a qualitative level, provides comfortable conditions for couples, allows you to fully enjoy the bathing process.

Why in the bath ventilation

To answer the question, why, in fact, the bath ventilation, you should know its direct purpose.

If in pairs, other bathrooms present air circulation system, they are:

• faster heated, they fill it very much more (direct savings on heating);
• oxygen is obtained in the process of the harvest, vacationers feel comfortable, their health does not threaten anything;
• quickly get rid of excess steam, humidity, dried;
• the walls, the floor, the ceiling are not covered with fungi, mold, items (shops, ears) do not darken, the building is generally not deformed, longer hesitate.

If the premises are not even ventilated at all, there are unpleasant peeling odors there, the inner surfaces are covered with a wet sticky flare. During the adoption of bath procedures, vacationers lack oxygen, breathing difficulties, risk to choose carbon monoxide. Also, in the absence of proper air circulation, the warm masses will quickly accumulate under the ceiling, and the area near the floor will be constantly cold.

However, the following should be known: the bath of the classic Russian building, that is, from logs, specially cut down ventilation holes ... Not ensured! They are admitted by professionals, but only in one case: if the bath is neither inside, nor outside with nothing is insulated, is not isolated, not separated. In the bath without finishing, the bottom walls are already stacked with holes through which air and comes in natural mode. If there is a furnace-heater inside, then ventilation is carried out through confused. And so fresh air into the Russian bath is admitted through the door open by five to seven centimeters or the window. In parallel with this, the room should be cleaned from wet leaves in a timely manner, the shops dried on the street, and the heavy air is expelled with stuffing sheets.

Specially mounted ventilation in the Russian bath from the log necessarily places in cases where:

• there is additionally insulation or any kind of insulation;
• the floors do not have natural gaps for draining water;

• the furnace is not in the steam room, but in the adjacent room;
• windows are missing.

Important! Only in these cases, the presence of additional ventilation holes and forced circulation systems in the log bane is recognized as required.

Ventilation device: Important moments

Once again I will clarify: we are talking about the organization of ventilation in the log bath of the classical construction only if its natural implementation (through the oven, the window, the door, slot in the floor) is impossible. Quite often, when building a bath, two extremes are observed: from ventilation refuses at all or make it highly powerful and unregulated. What will happen to resting in a steam room in the absence of ventilation, we talked above. If the ventilation is too intense, the bath will rush longer, heat will quickly disappear from the room. The floors will quickly cool, which threatens people with colds.

Fresh air to the steam room should fall through the hole located directly behind the stove or under one of the sun beds. In the first case, hovering into a hot stove, the air quickly warms up, the difference between the ceiling and genital temperatures is neutralized. The ventilating hole, located under the sun bed, has only one plus - it does not face. The minuses here are two - constantly cold floors in the field of shops, difficult to operate the damper, because it is difficult to reach it with hand.

Bath ventilation can not be only a supply or only exhaust. It can be exclusively impressive, because it provides a permanent influx into the oxygen room and removing the harmful, heavy, exhaust air to the street. Hence the answer to the question, whether the ventilation is needed in the Ban from the log may only be affirmative. And about what it happens, we will talk below.

Types of ventilation structures Three, and they differ in their device.

Systems are:

• natural;
• mechanical or forced;
• combined.

Natural ventilation is ensured during the construction of the building by cutting down holes. They are installed flaps (covers), which, if necessary, the air flow arrival is completely or decreased (increases) their volume. This system functions due to the difference in the pressure and temperature of the external atmosphere and internal. So that natural ventilation work efficiently, you need to position the outstands themselves. Input (intake) Hole is usually located behind the stove at a distance of 0.3 meters from the floor, the output (exhaust) - opposite on the wall at a distance of 0.3 meters from the ceiling.

For a pair, this is not the best venting option, since in this case the outlet must be on the same level with the input. Thus, the air is included behind the stove, heats up, rises upstairs, cools, lowers, is removed on the street through the exhaust hole.

Mechanical or forced (artificial) The ventilation system is ensured by installing on the holes of special fans, pipe gaskets, electrical equipment installation. If we compare it with natural, a number of sufficiently significant advantages are detected, namely:

1. Oxygen fastest enters the room.
2. The incoming air is filtered.
3. The indoor microclimate is constantly kept at one level.
4. Fresh air is distributed evenly, quickly updated.

However, that the effect of its use is maximum, it is necessary to strictly monitor the correctness of the aircraft / exhaust holes.

On a note! Natural ventilation in the Ban from the log is losing forced in several positions.

For example, it depends very much on the weather, especially if a strong wind is directed toward the intake opening at an angle in ninety-degrees. The result of the work of the forced system is always equally qualitative for any weather. And the direction and strength of the wind does not play any role for it.

However, when installing the mechanical system there are also their difficulties. It is impossible to equip without electrical equipment, which is quite sensitive to a wet microclimate in a steam room with high temperatures. Moreover, moisture and high degrees are the worst enemies of any electricity equipment. Therefore, all system elements (fans, motors, other) should be securely isolate from moisture, and when it is connected to strictly follow the entire operational rules. For sealing electrical engineering, all seams are most often used by special buildings, sealants and metallized tape.

High-quality ventilation system is a mandatory element of the steam. The absence or improper organization of ventilation in the bath is dangerous to human health. The correctly equipped system will protect people from carbon monoxide and improve the comfort of stay in the room. On the features and technologies of installation of the ventilation system in the bath Talk further.

Characteristic of the correct ventilation for the steam

Proper ventilation in the bath performs several functions at once:

• provides oxygen room;
• improves comfort from staying in the steam;
• removes carbon monoxide;
• allows economically advisable to spend firewood;
• equally distributes air flows;
• protects the building from the formation of mold or fungus.

The most optimal version of the ventilation in the bath is a subtle-exhaust. For these purposes, they are equipped:

• the supply hole - through them the influx of fresh air into the steam room is organized, a fan is installed with a ventilation tube, an additional air flow is provided by open vents or through the door;
• exhaust hole - removal of heated air from the room, through the furnace, pushed or enhanced instruments.

To improve the supply and exhaust ventilation system, various ways are used. We offer to familiarize yourself with one of the most efficient ventilation systems:

1. Supply holes are located below the room, next to the furnace.

2. Exhaust holes strictly on the opposite side from above. There is a variant of organizing two holes at once for better air control.

3. The height of the arrangement of the exhaust hole determines the level of thrust. With a low vent, additionally, reinforce the ventilation pipe system.

4. With the help of special dampers, air supply is controlled from the room.

5. Air update in the steam room is produced every 2-3 hours.

In addition, the individual parameters of the ventilation system are determined by the type of room, the bath option. For example, in the Russian bath, renew the air will help periodic ventilation. In addition, the size and place of installation of the furnace is taken into account, two types of ventilation are organized in the ratio with this parameter.

How to make ventilation in a package with a separate furnace

We offer an option to organize ventilation in the steam room, the furnace of which is located in the next room. Such a scheme is popular in ordinary Russian baths. To remove the firebox to the adjacent room use a flue tunnel. Among the advantages of this location of the furnace will note:

• lack of garbage in the steam;
• the door to the room opens only at the entrance;
• the possibility of mounting heat-resistant glass to admire the open flame.

For installation of the supply holes in the room use two ways:

1. Arrangement of the ventilation channel in the underground space. Establishing it before premises, installing ventilation grids on the channel.

2. Outdoor ventilation.

At the opposite wall, set the exhaust, diagonally in the ratio with the supply hole.

The main quality of the organization of the right ventilation is the supply holes in the area must coincide with the exhaust.

Ventilation scheme in a steam room with an indoor

If the furnace-heater is located directly in the steam room, the organization of ventilation occurs otherwise. In such a case, the air flow through thoughtfully decide the issue with natural ventilation. This method is appropriate if the fire in the furnace is constantly.

If the chimney is absent in the bath, and the furnace works in short mode, use a more perfect ventilation system. Check out the technology of fixing the ventilation system in the steam room:

1. Build a special brick podium on which the furnace is installed. With it, the oven is supplied to the furnace.

2. Place the ends, build another bricks box. As a result, the first design is installed up the stove of the stove, and the second to the door of the steam.

3. On the adjacent wall of the wall, build the doors in the places of stone cloth. They warm up the neighboring room, if necessary.

4. The stove is installed on the podium, it is possible to install it on the corner or on steel patterns. Finish the furnace brick, install a brick screen, with two convection valves.

5. Exhaust ventilation system operates due to furnace firebox.

The correct installation of the ventilation system is based on its correct adjustment. General rules for controlling the ventilation system:

• first furnace furnace all holes and supply and exhaust closes;
• wait for the temperature mode increases, then adjust the ventilation holes with valves;
• if necessary, in increasing the volume of oxygen indoors, open the supply hole;
• upon completion, open the sash, for better steaming steaming.

Ventilation steer photos:

To determine the temperature mode and humidity indoors, use special devices. Measure the temperature will help the thermometer of alcohol or electric type. Note that the use of mercury variant is strictly prohibited. To determine the level of humidity, use a hygrometer.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system is based on factors:

• clearing oven, there is a gradual heating of air and its output through the convection door;
• the lower door remains open until the ovens is full;
• close the door from below and work with the top hatch;
• in the process of the ward, it only opens up, installed on the box;
• after using the steam room, it is well ventilated.

Ventilation device in the steam room

The main functions of the ventilation system in the bath:

• air supply during bath procedures;
• high quality drying of the room.

The ventilation system in the bath should not:

• disrupt the room temperature, in the process of adopting bath procedures;
• separate temperature streams, i.e. cool air is closer to the floor, and warm - on top;
• remove indispensable air from the steam room.

In addition, the lack of ventilation leads to the appearance of unpleasant air indoors, the formation of mold and fungus, harmful to human health.

We highlight three main types of ventilation in the steam room:

• natural option - flow of air flow through the pressure difference;
• mechanical option - air supply using special mechanisms, when measuring these characteristics of devices;
• the combined option is to create artificial pressure with fans and hoods.

In the room there are two types of air transportation: trim and exhaust. For these purposes, a hole is equipped with diagonally, with respect to the supply.

It is not recommended to install an exhaust hole in the ceiling steam room, this ventilation system increases the heating time of the room. It is rational to set the hood under the ceiling, additionally equipping the damper on it, to adjust the thrust.

In addition, ensure the ventilated floor in the bath. Thus, the term of flooring increases, as it is in constant contact with water. Recommendations for the arrangement of outdoor ventilation:

1. In the process of installing the foundation base, ensure the ventilation of the floors, build the outstands from the base unit.

2. On the opposite walls, build ventilation holes that provide air flow. Install the lattices on them, in order to avoid rodents.

3. The finishing floor in terms of the level should be slightly higher than it is pondered. Thus, it will function as an exhaust.

4. Install wooden boards with a small gap, at least half a hundred.

5. After taking bath procedures, ventilate the room well and dry the floors.

Another way to organize the ventilation system in the bath is "on the Basta". In such a case, fresh air enters the room from the sub-space, and the exhaust is from the hole located near the door. For these purposes, build an exhaust box from a tree, inside the foil is covered.

Under the floor, build the ventilation channel, glad with a metal sheet, which prevents the heat from entering it. The size of the structure should not exceed twenty percent. Adjusting the inflow of fresh air on such a system is quite simple. It is enough to open the ventilation hole and pissed. In addition, it is possible to avoid the accumulation of an unpleasant fragrance in the steam room. This method of organizing ventilation is appropriate if the firebox is directly in the steam room.

Ways to organize ventilation in the steam room

Install the inlet under the furnace by 50 cm from the floor, and the output from the opposite side to thirty centimeters from the ceiling. Forced movement of the air masses is provided by a fan. Thus, it is possible to ensure uniform heating of air. The height of the first hole adjusts the force of the thrust of natural ventilation.

Two ventilation holes are located on one wall, be sure to opposite the furnace. The inlet is installed at a distance of thirty centimeters from the floor, and the output is thirty centimeters from the ceiling. Install the fan into the outlet, cooled air, getting into the room faces the furnace, heats up and comes out.

Position the entrance over the furnace, at a distance of about twenty centimeters from the floor. The inlet is installed at the same height, only near the ceiling of the opposite wall. In the second hole set an exhaust. The principle of operation of the system is based on chilled air entering the steam room, passing through the oven and pulling the second hole.

This method is relevant for the steam room with a floor, on which there are holes for water drain. The inlet is installed behind the furnace, and the output is a flow tube through which the air is output outward.

Relevant for a bath with a constantly working oven. The inlet is equipped opposite the stove, and pushed the outlet function with the smoke tube.

If it is necessary to increase the temperature in the steam room, it suffices to close all the plugs. After taking the bath procedures, they are removed. These ventilation schemes are quite realistic to organize independently, without buying expensive devices and special material investments.

How to perform vapor barley

Parosolation in the steam room allows you to maintain the optimal room temperature. Special materials in the form of playproof films, insulation and waterproofing will help create high-quality vaporizolation. The film ensures the protection of the insulation from the penetration of the water pair, without passing the moisture, which is in hot air.

Qualitatively equipped vaporizolation and ventilation system increase the service life of the room itself and its external finish. Since hot air rises up, first of all, a qualitatively vaporize the ceiling.

For these purposes, use Lahi, boards, about 6 cm thick. From above, they are closed by aluminum-based foil, cardboard with high density or wax paper impregnated with oil. After fixing one of these materials, the ceiling is separated by clay and insulate.

In addition, the cutting board will help steamize the ceiling. On the boards is installed impregnated with a loop cardboard, which is further trimmed with wooden clapboard.

Plates made of polystyrene - modern replacement of soft clay, differ in good thermal insulating and operational characteristics.

As vapor insulation materials for walls, the steam rooms are used:

Parchment and rubberoid for thermal insulation parches are rarely used. This is explained by the fact that with a strong heating, they release toxic substances and unpleasant flavors. The steamer paro insulates with special foil materials. Allocate combined vapor and thermal insulation methods. For example, a polypropylene NPP, among its advantages, we note:

• excellent resistance of moisture;
• resistance before temperatures;
• laminated coating prevents the development of mold and fungus;
• combined thermal treatment.

In addition, it is possible an option to use rolled vapor barrier in the form of rolled foil or fiberglass plates. To close the junctions between vapor barrier materials, use foil tape.

Plates are installed on the ceiling with a small compensation gap of 20 mm. Thus, the impact of moisture on these sites is reduced. Note that vaporizolation in the steam room should be reliably hidden for the main finishing material, and the high-quality ventilation system is an add-on.

Ventilation in the steam room

Baths, saunas and pools Qualitative ventilation system - a mandatory element of the steam. The absence or improper organization of ventilation in the bath is dangerous to human health.

Ventilation in the bath do it yourself: how to make it right

Why do you need to take care of how to make ventilation correctly in the bath? From how correctly the ventilation in the bath is, it depends not only to maintain comfortable temperature in the pre-banker, washer, steam room, rest room, but also safety, as well as the service life of the structure and its parts. Designing a bath and starting it to build it, it should be remembered that the ventilation in the bath should be made with their own hands taking into account certain subtleties and nuances. With your own hands, with the help of instructions, photos and videos, the work of all stages of installation of ventilation in the bath and steam room can be performed.

Properly arranged ventilation in the bath will provide a comfortable temperature inside the steam room and will extend the life of the wooden elements.

Principle of operation of the ventilation system in the bath

The effect of the ventilation system is based on well-known physical laws, and the scheme of its device is simple and understandable. For continuous circulation, air holes require two types:

The supply holes are needed so that fresh air flows into the room. With a correct ventilation device in the bath, they must be located as close as possible to the floor and near the furnace. With this location scheme, the incoming air is quickly heated and high temperature is stably maintained in the bath.

The direction of the movement of the air masses inside the paired

Exhaust holes are designed to remove overheated humidified air and carbon monoxide from the steam room. They must be arranged as high as possible, that is, just below the ceiling level, and be opposite the air holes to create and maintain permanent air exchange.

Tip! The exhaust hole in the ceiling will lead to a rapid cooling of the room, so its location is undesirable.

With the principal localization of the supply and exhaust holes in the device of ventilation in the bath with their own hands there are no difficulties. But the task of maintaining a high temperature indoor steam room with simultaneously efficient removal of exhaust air and carbon monoxide gas from it.

It is also necessary to pay attention to the preservation of temperature, comfortable and for sanitary-hygienic procedures, and for recreation, in all parts of the bath: the pre-banker, washer, the room for relaxation. And if the creation and implementation of the ventilation scheme in the bath do it yourself, you should think about the competent execution of work.

Scheme of correct air circulation in the bath

Types of ventilation

There are two types of ventilation:

Which one to choose when the device of the ventilation system do it yourself depends on the design of the bath and the volume of its premises.

Venting system with electronic control unit

Natural ventilation

This type of ventilation works due to the temperature difference and pressure indoors and outside it. The effectiveness of its operation depends on the placement of the holes for the inflow and output of the air. The most appropriate solution - the airproof movements are located at the floor, at an altitude of 250-350 mm, next to the furnace, and exhaust - on the wall opposite from them, below the ceiling level of 150-200 mm.

Best photos of the bathrooms inside and the description of the stages of work. Sequence of action during the repair of the sauna. Recommended materials and installation rules. Waterproofing and insulation of walls.

Natural ventilation systems are not suitable for steam or steam ventilation, as the cold air in this room is assembled at the floor itself, and hot - at the top. Setting the movement of air flow is accompanied by difficulties, but with the correct location of the ventilation elements in the steaming Russian bath, it is possible to cope with your own hands with this problem.

Natural ventilation is not suitable for steam room, it is advisable to equip in a rest room

Forced ventilation

For this type of ventilation in the steam room of the Russian bath or sauna, two subspecies can be distinguished:

1. Ventilation using special electronic systems that control air temperature and humidity using automation by adjusting its receipt and filtering. Such systems are quite expensive, and their application is often knocked out of the budget.
2. Combined ventilation system, when the effect of ventilation effect is obtained by the fans.

The location of the ventilation channels inside the walls of the bath

Dependence of the Bani Ventilation System on Building

Natural ventilation, provided the correct location of the beads and the correspondence of their size of the size of the premises, is well functioning in the Russian bath assembled from a log or bar.

A frame building is a hermetic design. It is advisable in the baths from the frame to use forced ventilation. The supply hole in the outer wall of the steam room should additionally equip the injection fan.

In the structure of brick or foam blocks, only forced ventilation is possible.

The type of ventilation system is selected depending on the materials from which the bath was built.

Planning the air ventilation system: subtleties and nuances

Before you begin the selection of the ventilation scheme in the bath and the device of its design with your own hands, you need to understand the intricacies and design nuances.

Fact! Even small errors in the layout of the supply and exhaust holes lead to undesirable consequences. In the steam room or the constant air temperature drops, or the carbon monoxide concentration will increase.

When building any bath, the bath ventilation and its schematic diagram is laid in the construction process. The question "how to make ventilation in the bath" should be solved even at the design stage.

Ventilation channels of the pre-banker, washer, steam room, recreation rooms and the pasumes for the inflow of fresh air and removing a mixture of carbon monoxide with spent wet and hot air masses should be laid at the respective stages of construction. The valves and grills for adjusting the size of the supply and exhaust holes and the sections of the ventilation air ducts are already installed at the stage of the finishing of the premises.

Planning the ventilation system must be carried out at the stage of development of a design project of a bathroom

Basically, the functioning of the bath ventilation depends on two factors:

• the dimensions of the ventilation holes are both inlets and exhaust - which are determined by the size of the room, be it a pre-banker, a washing, a steam room or a rest room;
• mutability of the ventilation holes.

Dimensions of the ventilation holes

The dimensions of the ventilation holes depend on the volume of a particular room: pre-bankers, steam room, washer or rest room. It is very important as an accurate calculation of the size of these outlooks and ensuring the possibility of changing it. To adjust the lumen in the openings, the door-valve and grilles are installed.

Ventilation hole with a slider to regulate the volume of fresh air inflow

It is necessary to take into account that at large sizes of the ventilation windows it will be difficult to heat the room to the right temperature. It will arise or the danger of constant overpowering of fuel and electricity, or difficulties with adjusting the section of the ventilation channels, that is, the distances to which it will be necessary to open each way.

Tip! The ventilation area is determined from the calculation of 24 cm² per 1 m³ of the volume of the ventilated room. For good fresh air thrust from the outside, the exhaust hole should be more input.

If the area of \u200b\u200bthe ventilation holes is insufficient, temperature, air humidity and the concentration of carbon monoxide in the room can rise to critical quantities.

The optimal size of the ventilation opening is calculated from the calculation of 24 sq. Mc per 1 cubic meter of the room

Mutability of the ventilation holes

The effect of any ventilation system is based on the substitution of the heated air, which comes in motion under pressure of air entering the outside - coolest and heavy. It is important to ensure the ability to adjust the direction of heat flow coming from the furnace installed in the bath. Ventilation in the steam room is often equipped with a single supply hole, but two precisely for this reason. To localize heat fluxes, it is enough to create in one of them or in both of the lumen of a certain width.

Placement diagram inside paired ventilation holes for the influx of fresh and removal of contaminated air

Ventilation in the Russian bath

The quality of the ventilation system of the bath, developed and mounted with their own hands, is laid at the project stage.

Air flows circulating indoors will have different temperatures, but discomfort from this should be felt as little as possible.

Tip! Comfort in the bath depends not only on the absence of sudden temperature drops "horizontally", that is, when moving from one room to another: from a relaxation room to a pre-banker or from a wage to the washing room. It is necessary to easily move the air masses vertically: the temperature of the air from the floor should not be much lower than the temperature at the level of medium human growth.

The microclimate in the bath directly depends on the number of ventilation holes, their size and location

The uniformity of the admission, mixing and removal of air masses depends on the number of supply and exhaust openings, their size, location relative to each other and heating devices, as well as equipped with additional control devices.

Basic Ventilation Device Schemes in Ban

Any bath ventilation scheme is developed with one goal - maintaining temperature, humidity and freshness of air in a pair. Bathrooms, and especially the steam room, are exposed to water and steam, so need periodic ventilation and drying. But ventilation and drying will be ineffective if the correct ventilation is not organized in the bath. The correct and constant ventilation of the steam bath significantly reduces the consequences that wood absorbs moisture.

The main task of bath ventilation is to maintain temperature, humidity and freshness of the air in the pair

Floor ventilation in the bath

Air exchange in bathrooms facilitates the device of the ventilated floor.

Wooden floor with constant contact with water loses its fitness after 5 years. Requirements required for ventilation through the floor:

• to create a stream to make small inventories in the foundation of the bath;
• floor to floor, leaving a slit between the boards to 1 cm;
• lay the supply holes in parallel walls (not forgetting to protect them with grilles from rodents);
• for the furnace to work with an additional exhaust, laying the clean floor above the level attended;
• after using the bath, leave the doors open until the floor is dry in the room.

The scheme of the ventilation system in the sauna

Ventilation in Bath Bath

With your own hands, if there is a photo and video instructions, ventilation in the bathroom Bath and in the pre-banker do the easiest way, as they do not have direct contact with water. A natural or combined type of ventilation is used, when fresh air enters the supply channel and is displayed using a fan through the exhaust channel of the steam, tambura or bathroom. Installation of ventilators is also possible, for which you will need a direct conclusion to the street and connecting the power supply.

In the pre-banker, you can equip a natural or combined ventilation type

Ventilation in a washing bath

For air exchange in the washer, the system of forced ventilation is made, which is driven by an electric motor. The air flows are removed towards the tambura. The trim and exhaust channel make one cross section, the input of the first is set above the soil level (by 2 m), and the output of the second is higher than the roof.

Ventilation in the bathroom

Requirements for the microclimate of the room steam room are special. It should quickly warm up, it must be maintained in it the optimal level of humidity and absent drafts. Therefore, for the steam room, the correct position and dimensions of the supply and exhaust channels are relevant, which are laid during construction. To regulate the tributary and outflow of air, sufficient valves in the outstands, but with a large area of \u200b\u200bthe room, the injection or exhaust fan may be needed.

Ventilation arrangement in steam room

The general principles of the ventilation design in the bath, video and photos attached to the instructions from network or other resources should help to build a bath with their own hands to bring this desire to a particular embodiment.

Ventilation in the bath do it yourself: how to make it right

Ventilation in the bath with your own hands - why do you need ventilation in the bath, how to make ventilation in the bath yourself, the principles of the device, the scheme, instruction, photo, video.

Ventilation in the bath do it yourself

In the process of establishing the bath, special attention should be paid to the organization of high-quality ventilation. Without the right air exchange, the pair simply will not be able to use normally. If you wish, all work on the installation of the necessary systems can be performed with your own hands. It is enough just to figure out the order of laying and connecting the main units and do everything in accordance with the instructions.

Why do I need ventilation in the bath?

Why do you need ventilation in the bath

Ventilation in the bath is very important. To avoid protracted and not very interesting explanations, you can consider everything on a specific example.

The bath visitor dwells indoors filled with a large number of hot steam. Man inhales this couple. It is known that people breathing with oxygen, and carbon dioxide exhale. In the absence of sufficient air exchange after a while, a person simply cares.

That is why ventilation in the bath should be as efficient and made in full compliance with technology. There are several types of ventilation systems. Examine the features of each option and select the method most suitable for your case.

Ventilation in a steam room

Ventilation systems are set to solve two main tasks, namely:

• ensuring the receipt of clean air to the bath;
• harmony of exhaust air from a paired room.

Additionally, ventilation provides a faster and high-quality drying of the steam. It is necessary to study the features of existing ventilation systems and deal in the order of their installation in order to get the most efficient and high-quality air exchange.

It is important that when the ventilation system is not disturbed, the temperature-characteristic temperature of the bath. The air exchange must be organized in such a way that in the bath there is no disorders of the distribution of temperature flows. Cool air in the steam room can be exclusively at the floor. And the higher the ceiling, the higher the air temperature should be.

Ventilation should not be removed from the bath clean air. A properly equipped system serves fresh air and removes spent. Errors when installing the system will lead to extremely adverse consequences and for the bath, and for its visitors.

Defeating wood mold

Main types of ventilation systems

There are several varieties of air exchange systems suitable for use in the bath, namely:

• natural ventilation. The principle of operation of such a system is based on the use of pressure difference inside the bath and on the street. The easiest and most inefficient option;

Exhaust fan from steam

Exhaust air is removed from the bath through a special ventilation box. Mounting the air exchange technology requires the box to be installed diagonally to the supply hole through which fresh air is in the bath.

Take care of the ventilation device in all rooms of the bath, and not just in the steam room. The pre-tribades, the rest room and other bathrooms should also be ventilated efficiently.

What you need to know about floor ventilation?

Quite often, bath owners forget that the floor of the steam room also must ventilate high quality. Such forgetfulness leads to very quickly damage the elements of the floor design and in general the deterioration of the characteristics of the bath.

The floors are constantly in contact with water. Without competently organized air exchange, the floor will very quickly collapse, and the floor covering will have to be changed after 2-3 years.

On the ventilation of the floor you need to think about the construction of the bath, because In the ready-made room, creating high-quality air exchange will be much more complicated.

First stage. Make small outstands in opposite walls of the base. It is best to provide these invents at the stage of construction of a concrete base of the bath. Creating any holes in the already finished design will lead to a certain decrease in the strength of the building.

Ventilation in paril

Second phase. Make in the opposite walls of the served room by one ventilation hole. Through them, clean air will flow into the room. Holes must be through. Finished channels are recommended to close with special ventilation grids. Such protection will not allow to penetrate rodents and other pests to penetrate the bath.

Ventilation in the bath

Third stage. During the construction of the furnace, take care that it was confused somewhat below the level of the first floor. Thanks to this placement, the oven will start working in the exhaust mode.

Fourth stage. Sleep floor boards. When they are laying, it is necessary to leave the cracks of the width of about 7-10 mm. Through these slits, water can flock down. If the liquid will be lured each time on the floor, the boards are very quickly rotated.

Frequently often the ventilation of the floor is equipped with "Basta". According to this technology, fresh air comes from under the stove, and the removal of spent oxygen occurs through the hole under the ceiling.

In accordance with the requirements of fire safety near the bath, metal sheet should lie. It is about this sheet that a hole is created for the supply of fresh air into the bath.

For a device of such an air exchange, a special exhaust box is required. You can buy a box in the finished form or collect your own hands from the boards. The inner surface of the exhaust box must necessarily be covered with foil. The size of the box should approximately 15-20% exceed the diameter of the chimney.

Ventilation "Basta" is the most optimal option for those cases when the stove is directly in the steam room. In such a situation, ventilation channels can be equipped even directly in the brick podium.

Pay attention to the location of the bath furnace. If the stove is located right in the steam room, then the natural air exchange is present initially. Only to rely solely on it is not necessary - this ventilation works only when the stove is running.

The most optimal version of the installation of ventilation is the arrangement of the channels of the air exchange on the opposite walls of the bath. They must be at different heights.

It is not recommended to place the ventilation openings too high. Although in most other cases, it is recommended to make a stretching hole right under the ceiling, there are several other rules in the baths. If you post an exhaust directly under the ceiling, hot air will be very quick to leave the room.

For baths the optimal height of the placement of the ventilation holes is the level of 1-1.5 m.

Ventilation Installation Guide in Ban

There are several simple ways to organize an effective air exchange in the bath. Examine each of them and choose the best for your steam room.

The first way. Create an opening for fresh air. It must be behind the stove, about half a meter from the floor. A hole for removing the exhaust air makes the side opposite to the inlet, at a height of about 30 cm from the floor level. Install the fan into the outlet.

Create a reservoir for fresh air

The lower you post an exhaust ventilation channel, the more intense will be air exchange.

However, too much is not necessary too much. Try to make holes at the recommended height, because Such values \u200b\u200bare the most optimal. Holes are recommended to close ventilation grids.

The second way. With such air exchange, both ventilation holes will be on the same wall. Work will be done with a wall located in parallel with respect to the stove. The retractable channel is created at the level of about 30 cm from the floor, exhaust - at the same distance from the ceiling of the bath. The exhaust hole is equipped with a fan. Open Channels Close the ventilation grids.

Third way. Make an opening for the bath stove for air intake. Place the retractable channel at about 20 cm from the floor surface. The exhaust channel is made approximately at the same height, but in the opposite wall. The exhaust hole is equipped with a fan. Open Channels Close the ventilation grids.

Fourth way. This version of the air is perfectly suitable for baths, the floor covering is laid with the gaps for water lead. Make the inlet over the furnace unit at a distance of about 30 cm from the floor surface. The exhaust hole in the case of such ventilation is not done - the exhaust air will leave the bath through the slots of the floor covering, and after allotted to the street through the overall ventilation pipe.

Ventilated floors in the bath

Fifth way. Such ventilation is ideal for baths with a permanent furnace aggregate. Interest in front of the stove, retreating about 30 cm from the floor. The hood function will perform the furnace.

Thus, the order of ventilation arrangement is practically no different in all considered methods. Each of them involves the creation of one or two holes, only the place and the height of their placement are changed.

You yourself, too, can be done with your own hands. Brick walls are easily passing perforator, and the tool is logged with any suitable for this, for example, a wood brown. In the finished holes it is recommended to attach plastic pipes. Do not forget about protective ventilation lattices. In the future, you are unlikely to give up unwanted guests in the form of rodents.

Ventilation in the bath with your own hands - step-by-step instructions!

Find out what order the ventilation is connected in the bath with your own hands. Detailed guide with a description of all stages of work. Photo + video.

Ventilation in the bath is a mandatory structural element. Without a full air exchange and fresh air inflow, even the highest quality wooden building is able to completely come into disrepair in 2-3 years. However, even at this short period of time, the steamboats will have to enjoy such "charms" as dampness, an unpleasant smell, a lack of fresh air.

Therefore, to the installation of the ventilation system must be suitable with full responsibility. It's not hard. Moreover, most small private baths (especially with the "Russian bath" regime), the most optimal is natural ventilation. And its construction, in contrast to the forced counterpart, will not require the installation of expensive fans. And in some baths, it is generally created "by itself" - only due to the appropriate pair construction.

How is the natural ventilation system?

Natural ventilation is powered by air convection arising from the difference of pressures (temperatures) indoors (bath) and on the street.

According to the laws of physics, the heated air in the room always rises up, and the cold - descends to the floor. The main task of ventilation in the bath is to provide the influx of fresh air (cold) and displace the spent (warm). Therefore, when planning a natural ventilation, the supply hole is usually located below exhaust. Then warm air, rising up, goes out through the exhaust mine. At the same time, there is a discharge (reduced pressure) and through the influx near the floor is tightened with fresh cool air. Gradually, he again warms up, rises and displaces the portion of the exhaust air through the hood. This is done continuous convection and natural ventilation.

Throughouts, windows, chimney of the furnace can be used in the bath with natural ventilation. Air flow is carried out through the crowns of walls (in chopped baths), open doors, ventilation holes. Both the supply and exhaust holes (produced, outstands) are supplied with shutters or adjustable lattices. It helps to control the air exchange indoors and prevent drafts.

There are several variants of natural ventilation. Each of them has its advantages, special functionality and some restrictions on the use.

Option 1. Slip ventilation - ventilation

In small Russian baths widespread ventilation. This is the usual ventilation, which is performed either after bath procedures, or between entering the steam room. Salmon ventilation contributes to the rapid change of air, drying the surfaces of the steam room.

With a volley ventilation, the role of the ventilation holes is performed by the door and the fortage located on the opposite walls. To change air, they are revealed for a short time after the harvest (or between the visits of the steam). Depending on which direction the pressure drop is directed, the air will move from the window to the door or vice versa.

The role of salvo ventilation is to refresh the air in the steam room, but at the same time not to cool the walls. Therefore, the time of ventilation is small - 1-2 minutes is enough.

Option # 2. Ventilation with outflow through chimney

The chimney stove with chimney can become a driving force of ventilation. When burning fuel, the exhaust air is drawn into the furnace pissed and comes out through the chimney. In order to carry out the influx of fresh air, make a slot about 5-10 mm at the bottom of the door. Or closely close it during procedures. In the baths-cutters, when burning fire in the oven, the air from the street is dragged through the loosely fitted lower crowns.

Ventilation by outflow through the chimney is possible only when the fire is maintained in the furnace. If the burning of fuel is not survived during the harvest (for example, in the baths "in black" or in the short-term operation furnace), there will be no change in air. A more versatile ventilation system will be required.

Option # 3. Air exchange through production

Air exchange performed through special production is a universal view of natural ventilation. It allows you to gradually change the air into the doubles several times during the passing (ideally - 5-6 times per hour). With competent planning of such ventilation, the drafts and reducing surface temperature will not be observed.

The exhaust hole is usually suitable under the ceiling, above the top regiment. It has a size of 15-20 cm, sometimes square or round. Close the hood with a removable plug or a sliding flap (door), with which you can change the size of the hood and the degree of air exchange.

A few more rules:

• It is undesirable to place the ventilation holes at one level opposite each other. It is highly likely that the fresh air that went into the pair will immediately fly into the hood. This eliminates the full air circulation, but leads to the formation of draft.
• Linear drawing dimensions, ideally, must coincide with the dimensions of the supply opening. Or be more. With the deviation of the drawing size in a smaller side, the new clean air will not go to the bath.
• If you wish to strengthen the outflow of the exhaust air, the drawing dimensions make more inlets. Or satisfy 1 supply hole 2 extracts.

For the inflow of clean air in the pair, the supply hole is equipped, as a rule, 0.2-0.4 m from the floor surface. It can be on the same wall as the exhaust, or in the opposite side. It is desirable - next to the stove so that the incoming air managed to heat up and flowed into the zone of the harness is already warm. The supply hole is closed with a ventilation grille so that the air is drawn into the room with separate jets, and not a solid stream.

Step-by-step instruction on installation

The classic work order is:

1. In the walls of the bath make two holes with transverse dimensions of 100-200 mm. It is advisable to form products even at the construction stage, in order to no longer have to carve them in the finished walls. One hole is performed behind the oven (or next to it), at a distance of 20 cm from the floor. Other - on the opposite wall, diagonally, at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling.
2. In the holes install the box. They can be bought ready - from metal or plastic. In chopped baths, it is better to use wooden boxes from the boards.
3. At the supply hole put a ventilation grille, on the exhaust - valve. If one of the holes goes outside, a mesh from insects is installed on the box.

But this order of work is not the only right - it all depends on what kind of structure you have and what kind of air ducts you have chosen.

Advantages and disadvantages of such a system

Among the advantages of natural ventilation are the most essentials:

• simple device and easy installation;
• cheapness - Natural ventilation does not require the installation of expensive forced fans;
• efficiency in the work - avoids spending for electricity;
• reliability - the absence of mechanical devices makes natural ventilation of almost "eternal", not subject to breakdowns and not needing repairs.

There are cons:

• the dependence of the ventilation force on the temperature difference in the steam room and on the street;
• in the autumn and winter, cold air, which comes from the supply holes, reduces the temperature in the pair, may occur axles;
• smells from the street.

Agree, shortcomings are insignificant. In a small bath standing in its own area, natural ventilation is the most rational solution. If inside there is no swimming pools and large washers, overpay for mechanical fans (for forced air exchange) there is no point. If for some reason, natural ventilation will not cope with the functions entrusted to it, you can convert it at any time into mechanical - just put the fans on the holes!

Ventilation in the bath do it yourself - the scheme

Competently equipped ventilation system, with other things being equal, guarantees, firstly, the long service life of construction and finishing materials involved in the arrangement of the served premises, secondly, the comfort and safety of visiting the last for the user. In particular, the issue of the arrangement is full and sufficiently effective ventilation is in the bath, due to the characteristic temperature and humidity conditions and additional requirements for this kind of buildings.

General ventilation requirements in the bath

Video - Requirements for ventilation in the bath

The choice of the optimal variety of the ventilation system for the maintenance of the bath is a topic for a multi-hour discussion. For example, there is natural ventilation. The costs of money, time and effort on its arrangement are minimal - the work literally comes down to drump up holes in the walls, installation of boxes / pipes and valves / lattices.

Ventilation valve and grille

Ventilation lattices for bath and sauna

However, it is impossible to use natural ventilation to maintain all rooms. Of course, it would be possible to save, but the lack of such a decision will be apparent with the arrival of the first winter: together with the influx of fresh air from the street, the cold will go, and the combination of frosty air with humidity is known to everyone - everything around will simply freeze. Therefore, natural ventilation in some rooms must be combined with other existing options in other bathrooms.

If the bath is equipped with a waxing or even own pool, natural ventilation with the maintenance of such premises will definitely not cope - you will have to equip the exhaust system. And in general, the presence of forced inflow / outflow of fresh air will be useful both to visitors of the bath and its premises. Recommendations regarding the optimal composition of the air exchange system are shown in the table.

Table. Selection of ventilation system for different premises

Steam, Break or Restroom		Under aeration, an organized natural air exchange should be understood. The option is most optimally suitable for use in a bath: air intake is carried out from below the furnace (for other rooms - by 25-30 cm above the floor), the removal of spent - through the hole at the top of the room. The operation of the air exchange is based on elementary physical laws: cold air from the street displaces warm air masses having a smaller weight, up the room. Aeration is ideal for use in rooms with high heat generation rates. The presence of additional humidity contributes to an even more pronounced increase in the efficiency of the system.
Washing room, Bathroom, Pool room		The system is equipped with a fan and, if necessary, cleaning filters. Mechanical exhaust ventilation is ideal for use in the oil, a room with a swimming pool and other wet and frequently visited bathrooms. The mechanical extractority provides effective removal of unpleasant odors and excess moisture, which makes air in the serviced room safe and clean. It is impossible to use alone exhaust ventilation - air is formed. To compensate for the vacuum, air flow from the street or other rooms is placed. Along with this, the presence of supply ventilation will exclude the likelihood of drafts. The supply ventilation system can be both natural and mechanical. In a complex with mechanical exhaust ventilation, it is advisable to use the mechanical supply system, because The possibilities of natural influx may eventually be not enough to compensate for emerging resolutions. The basis of the mechanical supply ventilation is the discharge fan. Additionally, it can be equipped with an air heater, which will eliminate inconvenience and solve the problems of ventilating premises during the cold season. Additionally supplied air can be moisturized or cleaned with the help of appropriate devices. The mechanical system is more complex in the arrangement compared with its analogue working under the laws of physics: in addition to fans and air ducts, additional equipment and devices (diffusers, air distribution grilles, automation means, silencers, etc.) can be included in the system. This gives an excellent opportunity to arrange the air exchange system, fully relevant to the wishes of the user.

In Tamburas, warehouses and other premises of this destination make a natural exhaust.

Regardless of the selected type of ventilation system, conditions for simple ventilation must be present in the bath. Set adjustable windows in all rooms, the features of the location of which allow it to do.

Video - Types of ventilation systems

Instructions for independent calculation of air exchange

Elementary formula is used to calculate:

W (the required volume of fresh / waste air) \u003d k (the coefficient indicating the multiple of air exchange) x V (the volume of the service room is determined by means of the width of the room for length and height).

That is, you first need to calculate the volume of each room and find the required indicator of the volume of clean air (in the calculations, it is customary to designate WPR, i.e. tributary) and a similar indicator of the discharge air (indicated in the form of WW, outflow). At the same time, multiplicity coefficients must be taken into account. The calculated values \u200b\u200bare rounded upwards - the last digit in the number should be 0 or 5.

Next, the summation of all WPR is performed. A similar action is carried out for the found WBT. The amounts received are compared. If the total WPR value exceeds the total WPR indicator, it is necessary to increase the volume of the hood for the rooms with the minimum value of the air exchange, if on the contrary - to increase the influx for the missing value. That is, at the output, the sum of all WPR should be equal to the total value of the found WBT.

The results of the calculations produced will determine the optimal sections of the air ducts installed and select the appropriate type of the ventilation system. Thus, with the calculation of the volumes of premises and other associated data, no special problems will arise. For greater ease of subsequent processing, put the found values \u200b\u200binto a simple table, as in the example presented.

In the example above, the total value of WPR is less than the sum of all the found WW on an indicator of 110 m3. In order for the balance of the balance, it is necessary to ensure the influx of clean air in the missing quantity. This can be realized only in the pre-tribades. Thus, a value of 55 m3 for the pre-banner, shown in the table, should be replaced by an indicator of 165 m3. Then the balance will be respected.

Start the calculation of the air ducts installed and the structure of the structured ventilation system.

The ventilation system is designed in such a way that the air moves along the installed air ducts with the following speed indicators:

• ≤ 5 m / s in trunk channels and ≤3 m / s in existing branches - for mechanical ventilation systems;
• ≤ 1 m / s - for air exchanges operating on the natural principle;
• 2 m / s - for a natural air exchange directly in the steam room.

Choosing an air duct section, consider the above indicators. As for the profile of the box / pipe, this moment is determined by the constructive features of the air exchange and the baths directly. For example, air ducts with a round cross section are simpler in the installation compared to its rectangular "counterparts", and the required connecting fittings for round air ducts are much easier.

The relationship of the diameter of air ducts and other significant indicators is demonstrated in the following tables.

For example, we will work with round ducts. Required sections We select on the corresponding table, focusing, at the same time, on the table indicators an example of calculating ventilation.

Estimated air consumption turned out to be 165 m3 / hour. The air flow with this flow must not move faster than 5 m / s. In accordance with the above table for round air ducts, select a section on the specified data. The table value closest to our, equal to 221 m3 / hour. Duct section - 125 mm.

Air duct with insulation Flexible air ducts

In the same order, we determine the optimal sections for all the branches of the system in the served premises, remembering that the air flow should move at a speed not exceeding 3 m / s (in Tamburas and storage rooms - 1 m / s, in the steam room - 2 m / sec):

• parium: Estimated WBT is 60 m3 / hour, which requires the installation of the air duct with a cross section of 125 mm;
• shower room - WW is equal to 50 m3 / hour, the air moves at a speed at 3 m / s, the air duct is 100 mm;
• toilet - indicators are similar to the shower room;
• pantry, tambour, etc. - Indicators (with the exception of air movement speed) are similar to the shower and toilet.

Important! In the shower (wedge, room with pool) there is an increased level of humidity. When determining the cross section of the duct for this room, it is necessary to make a correction in the direction of magnification (in this example - 125 mm).

For greater convenience, make all the information received into the table. As an example, you can use the template below.

Important remark! In the above table, the exhaust volume exceeds the volume of incoming air. It happened for the reason that the sections were determined from the nearest flow rate, and the diameter of the air duct in the oil was intentionally increased. In practice, such an approach will only benefit - there will be no stock on the outflow and influx.

SNiP 2.08.01-89. Residential buildings. File for download

SNIP 2.08.01-89

Sanitary and epidemiological requirements for residential buildings and premises. Sanitary and epidemiological rules and standards of SanPiN 2.1.2.1002-00. File for download

SanPine 2.1.2.1002-00

Construction rates and rules of the Russian Federation Heating, ventilation and air conditioning Heating, Ventilation and Conditioning SNiP 41-01-2003. File for download

SNIP 41-01-2003 (heating, ventilation and air conditioning)

The cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe ventilation window is determined in accordance with the volume of the served room: 24 cm2 per 1 m3.

It remains to be understood only with the optimal height of the air vents:

• for the inflow of fresh air - on average by 25-30 cm above the floor (in the steam room - near the stove);
• for exhaust air outflows - approximately 15-20 cm below the ceiling, as a rule, on the opposite one in relation to the supply wall.

Popular schemes for bath ventilation

Separate consideration deserve only options for adjusting the ventilation in the steam room - everything is performed in the remaining rooms according to the standard scheme, for example, so:

Air exchange in the steam room can be organized in accordance with 4 basic schemes presented in the following image.

Scheme "A". The most popular option. The window for air inflows - next to the stove, at a distance of about 25-30 cm from the floor. The incoming clean air gradually displaces the spent warm up to the opposite wall. On it, about 15-25 cm below the ceiling, an exhaust hole is equipped.

Scheme "B". Both holes are on the same wall. The scheme will work only if you install the exhaust fan. Fresh air enters through the bottom hole, equipped in the wall opposite to the stove. The air will rush in the direction of the furnace, and then covering the arc space of the steam room, move to the exhaust and retire beyond the bath.

Scheme "B". The option is suitable for porchs with flowing floor. The supply hole is located, as in the scheme "A". Arriving in the upper part of the steam, the air goes down to the floor, passes through the gaps in the board of the floor, contributing to a more efficient drying of the boards, and after the exhaust hole is usually equipped in another room. Also, the extract can be carried out through a separate insulated channel.

Scheme "G". An option for baths with a permanent furnace. In this case, the drawing functions performs the infideling hole of the furnace. The supply window is placed under the shelf, in the wall opposite to the oven. The height of the supply hole must correspond to the height of the placement poured the furnace. Fresh air rushes to the oven, displacing the air masses heated to the ceiling. Copling there, the air is lowered and excreted from the bath through thought.

In order for the operation of the air exchange system is the most efficient and high-quality, before starting it, examine and remember several simple tips.

If there is a bathroom in your bath or even a kitchen, we only plan them with exhaust ventilation - such a decision will exclude the likelihood of spreading unpleasant odors by other rooms. Alternatively, you can equip the supply ventilation in other rooms, and the bathrooms are equipped with a natural exhaust - in this case the air will move to the bathrooms.

When calculating the performance of the fans, it is recommended to reduce the total power of the supply devices by 5-10% of the total performance of exhaust aggregates. In this case, the exhaust air will be fully crowded out by incoming air masses, and the reserve of 5-10% compensates for air flow through windows, cracks, etc., which will allow you to observe the balance.

In rooms with one natural ventilation, it is recommended to make opening windings - this will increase the efficiency of fresh air intake and reduced the risk of fungi, mold, rot, and the like.

Important! If your bath is not a typical configuration, the project of the ventilation system will also be individual. With its preparation, the features of the composition of the premises, their design, constructive features, etc. should be taken into account.

The main stages of self-improvement of the ventilation system

Any ventilation system in any room is shutdown in about the same sequence. The differences are present only in the characteristics of the air duct and location of their location, as well as the configuration of the system (mechanical, in contrast to natural, are complemented by various types of devices).

For example, the following layout of the ventilation elements can be used.

Or its somewhat modified analog presented in the following image.

Recommendations for choosing the location of each hole, such as the air exchange system for different rooms of the bath, as well as the procedure for determining the characteristics of ventilation elements, were previously considered.

Along with this, the order of ventilation arrangement may vary depending on how the constructive option you give preference. Available solutions Little:

• independent ventilation in each room. Simpler option. The work is limited to the installation of fraamug, submarines, fans and other necessary elements, if provided for by the project. Fans can be mounted both in the windows and in separate channels derived out through the wall;
• centralized system. More complex option. Requires laying of ventilation boxes. Used mainly in private homes - in the case of a bath, this option will be too expensive and time consuming;
• "Hybrid" option. Some premises are ventilated individually, some are combined into a joint system.

An expedient option for use in the bath is independent ventilation - the owner can choose the optimal characteristics of the fans and other elements for each room, saving money, time and strength on the activities needed to combine channels into a single system.

Important! The location of some rooms can not allow to equip independent supply and exhaust ventilation. In this case, avoid laying of ventilation boxes will not be able to avoid. As an option, the box can be placed on an attic room, and the ventilation holes are equipped in the ceiling or connect with channels equipped in the walls (the option is more complicated if the gasket of this kind of channels has not been provided by the project at the construction stage).

In most cases, the first option is applied: the ventilation pipes of the required length are displayed through the holes in the overlap of the served premises and either equipped with each own fan, if necessary (it is easier to implement for an unprepared user, the procedure is similar to the following in the following table), or are connected to a single circuit and connect to the overall extract (may require the involvement of specialists).

Remember: The maximum efficiency of the ventilation system is ensured using as shorter and direct air ducts as possible - up to 3 m with the arrangement of the natural air exchange and up to 6 m during the involvement of electrical fans.

The procedure for arranging an independent ventilation system is given in the following table.

Important! The example describes the instruction on the arrangement of the mechanical ventilation system with the use of fans. The order of installation of a natural air exchange remains almost similar: only steps of laying wires and installation of fans are excluded.

Table. Ventilation arrangement

Stage of work point

	The order of work remains similar to the supply and exhaust holes. Only the height of their arrangement and location changes (possible options were considered earlier), as well as the type of fans used (trimming or exhaust). The characteristics of the latter are selected individually, taking into account the volume of the served room, the required air movement rate in the air ducts required by the multiplicity of air exchange, etc. - All these moments were consecrated in the theoretical part. Holes draw in the following order: - We look at the center and contours. Marking is done so that the diameter of the hole as a result is a bit (usually there are 2-3-millimeter clearance) exceeded the diameter of the installed pipe (the recommendations for the choice of the diameters of the air ducts were previously provided); - Using the perforator, we make a hole in accordance with the markup. The working tool is kept horizontally, but with a slight slope down; - Gently pull out the carved material (the hammer and chisel will help us in this), after which we thoroughly clean the finished hole from dirt and dust.
	The ventilation pipe (ventilation box housing) is placed in the prepared hole, however, before it (if the arrangement of mechanical / forced ventilation is scheduled), you must equip the fan. Useful recommendation! Initially buy ready-made ventilation settings, including, in addition to related add-ons, ventilation box / pipe and fan with an appropriate size housing - so you will avoid difficulties at the assembly stage. The pipe with the fan is placed in the prepared hole, and the remaining slits are filled with mounting foam.
	The fan is an electrical device, therefore, it must be connected to the network. We will deal with this until the mounting foam dries (at least 10-12 hours). Procedure of Action Standine: - The contours of the cable for cable are cut into the wall with the help of a grinder. Excess material are removed using a bipper; - A hole is prepared in the wall to set the switch box (for example, you can use a perforator). A box is installed (first read the instructions specifically to your switch). The switch itself will be mounted after finishing; - The wire is stacked in the stroke. To fix the cable, use alabaster; - Connect the wire with switch and fan. Be sure to study the connection scheme recommended by the fan manufacturer in the applied instruction, because For different devices, it may differ. The example shows one of the most frequently used schemes.
	It remains only to bring the whole design into a proper look. For this we do the following: - get rid of surplus dried mounting foam with a knife; - Sharpen shoes; - Mount the adjustable ventilation grilles on both sides of the pipe. For fastening, we use the screws. If it is provided, at the appropriate stages of work, install additional elements (for example, air heater, filter, etc.). Each of these devices is mounted individually - we first specify these moments in the manufacturer's instructions.

Video - Arrangement of ventilation holes

Video - Ventilation in the bath do it yourself - scheme

State regulations on the ventilation of premises are regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003, the document establishes the minimum multiplicity of air exchange in the rooms depending on their purpose and the features of use. In residential premises, ventilation must perform two tasks - ensure favorable indicators of the percentage of oxygen in the air and remove the exhaust gases.

Snip 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. File for download

Snip 41-01-2003

For the baths of the ventilation problem are complicated, it additionally should remove the wet air as quickly as possible (the rapid drying of wooden structures is ensured) and adjust the temperature in the steam room. There are cases when the steam room needs to quickly reduce the temperature before making the procedures with small children, older or large people. The furnace continues to give heat for a long time, wait until the sauna is cool independently, for a very long time. With the help of ventilating room, you can quickly install the desired temperature and maintain it in the specified limits of all the time in it in it.

What types of ventilation and methods of their calculation

Ventilation can exist only in cases where there is a flow of fresh air and an outflow used. Often you can meet the concepts of "supply" or "exhaust" ventilation. It is not quite the right concepts, it can not be only a supply or only exhaust ventilation, it always happens only flow-exhaust. Why are these concepts used? Thus, it is emphasized that the influx or exhaust of the exhaust air is manufactured by a compulsory method, and, accordingly, the removal or flow of fresh air occurs in a natural way.

During the calculations of the parameters of the ventilation systems in the source data, the volume and purpose of the premises take into account the presence of special conditions in them in terms of air indicators, the presence or probability of carbon monoxide or other chemical compounds. Based on these data, government regulations establish the multiplicity of air replacement for an hour, it can vary from 1 ÷ 2 to ten or more.

Further, engineers define the parameters and location of the channels to provide the necessary intake and removal of air, taking into account weather conditions and the climatic zone. If natural ventilation can not provide the desired multiplicity of air change, then forced systems that feed / pull the air electric fans are used. Baths have their own features of each type of ventilation, consider them in more detail.

General rules for ventilation devices in the bath

The principles of the ventilation device in the bath largely depend on the architectural features of its design. If the floors have gaps for draining water, then difty air can be supplied through the same gaps, there is no need to make a special hole.

Quite often, small windows are installed in the bath - when they open, they "turn" into the exhaust holes. In addition, in the case of the furnace furnace location, the room can be ventilated directly in the steam room - open the furnace and, changing the position of the chiber, adjust the multiplicity of air shift.

These are the most simple options for steam room (by the way, the most efficient and low-cost), but there are cases when the furnace furnace is located in another room, there are no windows, and the floors are solid without cracks. It is on such a bath that we will focus in our article. Why do you need to do ventilation in the bath?

1. For better air stirring throughout. Natural air convection is not able to level the air temperature in height, the difference in indicators under the ceiling and near the floor can reach tens of degrees. This negatively affects the comfort of the adoption of water procedures.
2. For the influx of fresh air. If one person is flew in the steam room, and the stay does not exceed 20 ÷ 30 minutes, the oxygen concentration in the air will not have time to decrease to critical values. And if there are several people in the steam room for a long time, then the influx of fresh air becomes mandatory.

Quite often, developers fall into two extremes: in order to save heat, they generally refuse ventilation or make it too strong and unregulated. Both extremes have negative consequences, you do not need to neglect ventilation, it costs cheaply, and the positive effect is very impressive. But it should be done correctly, maximize the features of the premises, the temperature requirements for the steam room, the materials of the manufacture of walls and the trim.

In the event of a complete absence of ventilation, the risks of oxygen starvation grow up and, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, carbon monoxide poisoning. In the case of severe unregulated ventilation, the time of the shock is significantly increased, warm air is quickly removed from the room. But this is not all problems - the rapid removal of warm air automatically causes an equally quick influx of fresh - the floors will always be very cold, and this increases the risks of the disease with colds.

Uncontrollable ventilation fraught with cold floors

The influx of fresh air in the steam room is arranged in two places: behind the stove or under sun beds.

On the Internet there are many air movement schemes, for the most part they are made by amateurs, you should not pay attention to them. Perform only two conditions: air flow at the bottom, the extract at the top, the placement of the channels diagonally.

This is enough to ensure normal circulation and mixing air. Everything else - reasoning about nothing, they can only confuse inexperienced developers, significantly complicate the ventilation system, make it expensive and unreliable. There are options with two multi-level exhaust valves, with two air supplies, etc. Holes for air removal are located at different heights.

One under the most ceiling is used only for fully ventilating the bath after the end of water procedures. We are three times done by 30 ÷ 40 centimeters below the first and is used during washing. Some craftsmen connect them between themselves inner air ducts, set several regulatory dampers, etc. We assure you that these complications do not have any visible effect on the comfort of stay in the steam room.

A few words should be said about the ventilation channels in the bath, they are quite often offered to use in pairs. In large buildings, the ventilation channels serve to connect several different rooms to the overall ventilation system, does not matter which is natural or forced. This is fully justified with both technological and economic points of view.

And what other premises can be attached to the ventilation channels to the steam room? Weird question. Then why make sophisticated channels under the walls of the walls? Is it easy to do ordinary holes in the walls and insert ordinary pieces of pipes and lattices with elementary valves in them? We are over, we will tell about the real, efficient, simple and cheap method of ventilation device, we will not lay any channels anywhere. This is a universal option, it is perfectly suitable for both "budget" and an expensive exclusive pair.

Video - Ventilation in the bath

Natural ventilation bath

The most accepted option for most baths, minimum cost and safety and fairly effective. Specific location of the ventilation holes should be taken with the size of the premises, the location of the shelves, stoves and the material manufacturing material. The general rule - holes should be located at different heights, as a rule, the inlet (intake) 20 cm on the floor and the output (exhaust) by 20 ÷ 30 cm from the ceiling. During the selection of the holes, you need to take into account when the openings will be located on the external walls. It is desirable that they do not stand out too much on the facade walls.

The dimensions of the holes are approximately 300 ÷ 400 cm2, it is better to make them more than less. In the case of too fast, the exchange of air leading to a decrease in the temperature in the steam room, the channels should be covered with regulatory valves. To improve the appearance, it is better to use decorative lattices, they can be purchased in specialized stores or do it yourself.

Several complicates the ventilation system, the installation of electrical equipment is required. Another problem is related to the microclimate in the steam room. There is a high temperature and humidity of the air - the main enemies of any electrical equipment. Fans must have a reliable protection of the housing from moisture, during the connection it should be unintended to comply with the PUE recommendations. And to observe, they need to know.

The advantages of forced ventilation is significantly accelerated by the speed of air change in the room, the control parameters are expanded. Natural ventilation is very dependent on weather conditions, in some cases it may become ineffective. Especially if the wind is directed at right angles to the exhaust vent. Forced ventilation works with the same performance in any weather and in independence from the direction and strength of the wind.

How to make ventilation in the bath do it yourself

Initial data. The architectural features of the bath do not provide for air intake through floor slots, doors, a window or furnace furnace. It is necessary to make holes for both entry and air output. There is no internal and external wall covering, the sauna is built from the sawn timber.

Step 1. Determine the location of the input and output channels.

We have already mentioned that the input canal is better spaced near the stove at a distance of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. The output channel diagonally under the ceiling. This position of the input and outlet holes will provide the distribution of air flow throughout the size of the room. In addition, the input air will not cool the sexual coating. Channels must be easily accessible. There are recommendations to make the outlet in the ceiling. We are opponents of such a solution, the wet air will certainly cause great damage to the entire rafter system.

Step 2. Purchase or make yourself grilles and valves.

They can be of various sizes and geometric shapes: round, square or rectangular. At the same time, take into account the materials of the future covering of external and interior walls, consider how decorative grilles will be attached to them.

Important. Be sure to install lattices with adjustable lumens, only they can provide smooth adjustment of the multiplicity of air shift change.

And one more point - with the outside of the bath holes should also close. Moreover, the closure should be maximally sealed, prevent the moisture from rain or snow to the crowns.

Step 3. Put holes in the walls.

The most time-consuming operation will have to work manually. Pre-in the placed places you need to drill holes around the perimeter. What they are tight towards each other are, the easier it is then to hollow out the wood. When the holes are drilled, take in the hands of a chisel, a chisel and a hammer and begin to destroy the remaining batter of the bars jumper by the holes. Ventilation holes should be made by 1-2 cm around the perimeter more than the plug inserted. The fact is that then this pipe must be isolate to prevent condensate appearance on wooden structures.

Use only sharp bites and the chisel - the bar will have to cut across the fibers, it is quite difficult. If the timing of a bar is 20 centimeters, then it is better to half the depth of the hole from the inside the bath, and the second half is outside. If you have extensive experience in using gasoline saw, then you can cut a hole. But they immediately warn it that it is very dangerous to work in such conditions. Gasoline saw. Fill the end of the bus, during the capture of the tree, the bottom of the chain of the saw will pull out of the hands. This method of using the saw is categorically prohibited by the safety regulations, remember this.

If there is a need to dilute the inlet in the wall and in the bath, then buy a trumpet with your knee. It is advisable to use non-round pipes, but rectangular, they occupy less space under the trimming of the inner walls of the pair.

The locations of the knee and pipes are be sure to seal with silicone and wrame scotch for reliability.

Metallized scotch

Step 4. On the perimeter of the holes, put foil or polyethylene film and mineral wool, the wool layer should be dense, without skipping. The edges of the hole absolutely do not make it possible, closely, make sure that the waterproofing does not damage the sharp protrusions of the bar.

Step 5. Insert the pipes into the holes in the litigation. They should include with a little effort, rather tight. In order to increase the reliability of sealing and attachment, necessarily around the perimeter of the hole and the pipes pass foam. The mounting foam eliminates all invisible heat insulation passes between the pipe and the wall and firmly fixes it in the desired position.

We recommend giving holes and after the walls of the walls, the foam will eliminate the gaps between the wall and the parobararier. During the expansion of the foam, the parobararier grudges close around the uneven hole, all possible small damage will automatically close.

The pipe on the exhaust can not be isolated, it turns out warm air. But we advise just in case to make all the operations and for her. First, time and money will lose a bit. Secondly, make additional and reliable protection against penetration to the wooden structures of atmospheric moisture.

The codes of both holes are prepared, you can begin the upholstery of the walls and install decorative grilles with adjustable bandwidth parameters.

Important. We strongly advise you during the installation of the ventilation steaming to make ventilation of the space between the walls of the walls and the aluminum foil. Works are carried out according to the above algorithm with one difference. Ventilation must be either constantly closed (during the adoption of water procedures) or constantly open (during bath ventilation). The use of foil as walls of wall has many positive sides. But there is one problem - the difficulty of removing the condensate between the trim and isolation. The ordinary hole solves all the problems and completely eliminates the damage of wood.

Video - Ventilation with your own hands

How to make a hole in a litter with a crown

If you do not want to make holes for ventilation by hand, you can drill them with a special metal crown. They are implemented in stores and cost inexpensively. The only problem is the crown requires a powerful low-speed drill or a manual drilling machine, ordinary drills due to heavy loads can quickly fail. Another limitation is the maximum dymeter of crowns rarely has more than 120 mm. But for most baths of small volumes of this size enough.

Step 1. Select the crown of a suitable diameter and secure it in the cartridge. Make a drilling site.

Step 2. To facilitate cutting efforts, be sure to smear the crown with machine oil. Lubrication must be repeated periodically. As soon as the crown deepen about two thirds of the height - stop drilling, remove the crown and re-lubricate it internal and external surfaces.

Step 3. Note the center of the opening by any thin drill. In a shallow hole insert the crown and start driving a bar.

Step 4. Drill until the height of the crown allows. Carefully follow the operation of the electrical instrument, do not allow large loads. Loads are regulated by the enclosure of the crown of the crown to the bruus.

Step 5.. The crown does not work further - remove it with it and the chisel or chisel gradually remove the sliced \u200b\u200bwood. It is removed quickly, start gradually chop out the corners of the hole. Do not chop the chisel in a log across the fibers, chop it only along the fibers, so much easier to perform work.

Repeat the operations until the hole becomes pass-through. If the bar is so fat that the drill cannot pass it on the one hand, go to another. To do this, you need to accurately find the center of the already done opening. The crown has its own centering drill, but also its lengths may not always be enough to exit the opposite direction. You have to look for the center on your own. To do this, set the drill thin drill on the tree, insert it into the existing hole from the centering of the crown and do the through hole very carefully. The more accurate you drill the center, the easier it will be faster on the other side of the wall.

Video - how to drill hole crown

Warning Bath Ventilation

A rather original way of the ventilation device, the bath is not only leaving fresh air, it immediately heated. This is very important in winter, it is possible not only to increase the comfort of stay, but also accelerate the premises and save firewood.

The air fence is made at the bottom of the bath and with the help of electric fans are served in the air intake channel.

The furnace has a metal chimney, a special screen is installed around the chimney, the air duct air from the duct falls into the channel channels. The screen performs two functions: protects limbs from burns and serves as a radiator to heal from the air duct air. The heated air comes out of the screen in the pair.

If you wish, you can improve the design slightly. Put the tee with the damper on the air duct. This will make it possible to take the air from the bath and from the street - the possibilities of regulating the microclimate parameters in the room are significantly expanding.

Video - ventilation in air heated steam room

Why do you need ventilation in the Russian bath? We will bring a simple example: a man is steaming, around him - hot couples and he breathes them. Oxygen is exhaled and the carbon dioxide is constantly inhaled - and if there is no fresh air in such an atmosphere, the rest may simply be lit. That is, if there is no ventilation - the bath becomes simply dangerous for life - this is why in the technical rules of operation of the bathhouse so many subtleties. Yes, sometimes you can hear from experienced masters, that ventilation in a brick bath, for example, is not needed - but it is not about the fact that the steam room does not need fresh air, but that sometimes in the bath is enough and natural ventilation, And she does not need forced.

So, how to make ventilation in the bath - looking for the answer together with the portal Stroy-banya.com.

General rules when planning a bath ventilation

The ventilation system itself in the bath has two main tasks: deliver fresh air during the procedures and ensure fast and high-quality drying of bathrooms after them. And thoughtful and implemented should be both options.

But the fact that the ventilation should not do:

• Turn the temperature of the bath in the influx of fresh air.
• Incorrectly separating temperature streams - i.e. Cool can only be at the floor, but neither as not on the shelf where there is a sprawled person.
• It is not that air to remove from steam room - not spent, in which the most carbon dioxide.

Also, fresh air deficit invariably will lead to the appearance of an unpleasant smell in the bath - and it is difficult to get rid of it. Yes, air filled with disputes of mold and fungi is not the most healing for a restful person.

In total, the bath ventilation is provided by such species:

• Natural when the entire air flow occurs due to the pressure difference on the street and indoors.
• Mechanical - when and behind the temperature, and the appliances are followed by air.
• Combined when the pressure is artificially created using a fan.

And in the bath itself, not only the influx, but also the outflow - and this is already done using a box, which is always located diagonally from the supply channel.

Ventilation is vital not only in a stuffy steam room - but also in the shower, in the locker room and even a rest room. Just initially need to decide which one of its species is suitable for a particular bath.

The floors in the bath should also be ventilated - after all, they constantly come into contact with water, which can lead to their destruction. If this is not done - they will have to be changed at least once every 5 years. And because to extend their life, it is important to do this:

1. Initially, even during the foundation laying, you need to ensure the ventilation of the floors - make small inventories from opposite sides of the base.
2. You need to leave two more ventilation holes near the opposite walls of the steam room - for fresh air. And so that the rodent is accidentally penetrated into the bath, these windows are usually closed with lattices.
3. During the installation of the furnace, it is important to make sure that the level of the first floor has become a little higher, then it will work as a hood.
4. The boards are necessary to fit so that the gaps from 0.5 to 1 cm remain between them.
5. Upon completion of bath procedures, the floors need to dry well - each time.

You can make in a bath and ventilation "on the Bast": the influx of fresh air is organized under the furnace, and exhaust - from the ceiling directly opposite the door in the corner. For this, a special exhaust box is used - it can be made from the board and sew inside the foil

Correct direction of air flow

Under the floor, the vet to do it directly directly from the metal sheet - it is he protects the floors from the fire. And the size of the box itself should not exceed the chimney diameter by 20%. In general, such a system is good - the influx of fresh air from the street to regulate is easy, but the unpleasant smell does not penetrate into the steam room.

If the furnace is right in the steam room, then this option is the most rational. Of course, the design is obtained more complicated - after all, it already needs two boxes in it: one to ensure the convection of the air masses, the second - for combustion of firewood. And the channels themselves can be placed right in the brick podium - if the oven is otd.

5 popular device schemes to choose

But the ventilation in the steam room should be thought out especially carefully - otherwise there will be no comfort from pleasant procedures. And you can provide it in different ways:

Option number 1. The inlet is located behind the stove, in half a meter from the floor, while the outlet - from the opposite side, at an altitude of 30 cm. It is installed in it for a forced air movement. In this embodiment, the air warms uniformly - the cool streams are heated from the furnace and go up where they are cooled and lowered down. They are already displayed out through the exhaust hole. And what it will be lower, the stronger the air flow will be.

Option number 2. Both ventilation holes are on the same wall - opposite the furnace. But the entrance is at the bottom, by 30 cm from the floor, and the outlet - at the top, 30 cm from the ceiling. Here in the output hole also put a fan. But the flow scheme is somewhat different: cold air penetrates the steam room, hitting the oven, heats up and rushes up - in the hood and outward.

Option number 3. In this method, the inlet is behind the furnace, at a height of 20 cm from the floor, and the output is at the same height, but from the opposite side. And here also put a fan. The whole system is quite simple: the cold air falls into the pair, passes through the furnace and pulls out with a fan outward.

Option number 4. This option is perfect for steam room with floors, where there are cracks for water flowing. The inlet behind the furnace at a height of 30 cm from the floor, the air that cooled, lowers down and penetrates across the floor, and then through the ventilation pipe outdoor.

Option number 5. This method is for those baths, where the furnace works constantly. The inlet - opposite the furnace, 30 cm from the floor, and the smoke pipe and the firing with the infancy perform the role of exhaust.

If you need to raise the temperature in the steam room or increase the amount or saturation of the steam - then it is enough to close the inlet holes by plugs. And after the end of the procedures - the plugs take off. And it is simpler than to press the buttons on some remote to a complex and expensive ventilation system. This is how the bath ventilation is done with your own hands - nothing complicated!

Ventilation is needed in all rooms, its installation rules are prescribed in SNiP 41-01-2003. But they concern only residential, public and industrial premises, which create favorable conditions for humans. At the same time, it is taken into account that people in such premises stay a long period of time and for all you need to create the same standard indicators of microclimate and air quality.

Baths have completely different tasks, they create a stressful microclimate - high temperature indicators (in Russian baths up to + 60 ° C, in saunas more than + 100 ° C) and high air humidity (up to 90%). Moreover, in one room, temperature and humidity indicators should vary widely depending on the wishes of washable. The change in the parameters of the microclimate should be carried out as much as possible, and the achieved values \u200b\u200bare maintained relative to a long period of time. And a very important difference between the baths from ordinary premises. If, in the second people, people have the ability to "defend" from temporary inconvenience to clothing, then it is impossible to do this in the baths.

Based on these features, the bath ventilation should perform individual tasks, and this affects the principles of its device and features of operation. Ventilation in the bath can be natural and forced, each view has its own characteristics, characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. In this article, let us talk in detail only about one type of ventilation - natural.

Types of natural bath ventilation

The tasks of the ventilation of the bath and how it differs from the ventilation of other premises, we have already found out, now it's time to tell what methods can they be achieved. Ways depend on the architectural features of the room and your preferences.

First you need to remember physics lessons from school. The ventilation of the room occurs due to the difference in the density of air on the street and indoors. Heated air has a smaller weight and rises, cold air is heavier and lowered down, the so-called convection occurs. Accordingly, in order for the premises to be ventilated, hot air should be able to leave, and cold act, the input and outlet openings are needed. It can be ordinary gaps in windows and doors or specially made ventilation holes.

On the Internet you can meet the allegations that these holes must necessarily have the same dimensions, otherwise the ventilation does not work or "blows not in that direction". So can only say those who strolved lessons. The ratio of the size of the entrance and air output to the performance of the ventilation does not affect.

Ventilation window of square shape

If the outlet, for example, can be released in an hour only 1 m3 of warm air, then exactly the same amount will fall into the cold room, whatever the size of the inlet, and vice versa. And the effect of reverse thrust is obtained in the case of a winddrop or with the complete absence of fresh air. In the first case, the strong exterior wind "pounds" the air into the room, in the second case, after the air outlet in the room, a small vacuum is formed, which backs up the air into the room. It cannot be said that the ventilation is completely absent, it just becomes cyclic and works on the principle of "there and here". Of course, the effectiveness of such ventilation approaches zero, the air moves a little only near the holes.

And with these phenomena it is clear, now consider the specific types of natural bath ventilation. Let's start with the easiest and finish more complex.

The simplest, but also the least effective way of ventilation.

The pair opens the door or at the same time the door and the window - ventilation happens quickly, but not as we wish. Why?

Couple removes from the bath, and it also has negative consequences.

Outcome - ventilation is not the method of ventilation that should be used constantly. This is an extreme way, to resort to it is recommended only in the event of an acute need.

Such a method can be considered more successful, but it is possible only in one case - the bathing stove firebox is located in the pair. Warm air is removed through the furnace and chimney, the receipt can occur through the slots of the floor, a partitioned window or door. Sometimes at the bottom of the door leaf is made a special hole, to improve the design it is closed with a decorative grid.

Advantages of bath ventilation stove.

There are, of course, flaws, let's call the main ones.

1. Insufficient performance. Quickly change the temperature or humidity in the steam room will not be possible.
2. The presence of "dead" zones. The mixing of the air throughout the volume does not occur, there are areas with drafts and zones with standing air.
3. The dependence of the thrust (ventilation) from weather conditions.

Despite some disadvantages, this method of ventilation in combination with ordinary ventilation is very often used in the "budget" variants of the bath.

For budget steam room Best option - ventilation oven and ventilation

Bath Stove Watch - Scheme

The optimal version of the ventilation device for most baths.

Benefits:

Important. The ventilation device is desirable to think over before the start of the ban. Solve issues with specific placement of holes and their overall dimensions. We advise the height of the bloodstream to do no more than the height of the bar, and the bold holes to adjust the length.

Why is it optimal to provide ventilation at the construction stage?

Options for placement and size of ventilation products

For all types of natural ventilation there are several general rules. The first is to improve the efficiency of the system, cold air feed holes should be located at the bottom of 20 centimeters from the floor level. Holes for the exit must be placed at the maximum height - under the ceiling or on the ceiling. The second is the mixing of various air layers in the volume of steam room improves if the inlet and outlet are located at maximum distance from each other, preferably diagonally. What kind of places are they recommended to install them?

It can be done at the bottom of the door leaf pair.

Benefits - There is no need to make an excess hole in the wall of the bath. This saving time and effort, in addition, eliminates the likelihood of the wetting of the lower crowns of the church. The disadvantage - in most cases the doors are located opposite the shelves for the adoption of bath procedures, cold air flows appear, creating a number of inconvenience.

Under the shelf.

Advantages - the inlet is imperceptible, cold air streams well mixed with warm throughout the volume. Disadvantage - complicates access to the lattice to open / closing the damper. If during washing, you can only adjust the intensity of ventilation using the top grid, then after venting the bath you need to close both. And this means that it will have to at some time specifically for closing the product to visit the pair.

Important. The valve on the ventilation holes must be installed two each - outside and inside the steam room. After carrying out the bath, both should be closed. Choose such a lattice installation technology that guarantees the full tightness of the external dampers. It is strictly forbidden to hit atmospheric moisture to the crowns of the church.

Behind the stove.

The most optimal option. Cold air from the street will be hooked into the stove, a little is heated and divided into several separate and low-speed flow of flow. Drafts are completely eliminated. Disadvantages - it is not always possible to establish decorative lattices in this place. If the stove is close to the wall, then the greater temperature adversely affects plastic or wood decorative lattice materials. In addition, according to the safety regulations, such places behind the stove should be isolate with sheet gland using thermal insulation.

For your specific case, no option is suitable? Not a problem, make a hole where you think necessary.

As for the outlet, then with its placement there is less problems. Our only advice is not in the ceiling. The overwhelmed air should not be displayed on the attic, it will cause constant moistening of the wooden elements of the charter system, and its premature repair always "flies to a penny." To protect the rafters, the wet air will have to withdraw on the roof. Why do an extra hole in the coating, why do it yourself and for your money worsen the tightness of the roof coating?

Natural ventilation holes

The technology of calculating the size of the ventilation holes is indicated in existing regulations. It is much more complicated to determine the size of the production for natural ventilation than for forceding - too many factors that do not depend on people. The main performance parameter of the ventilation system is the multiplicity of air shift. For residential premises, the minimum value of multiplicity is regulated, while accounted for both the temperature in the rooms and the temperature on the street. The temperature in residential premises ranges from a small limit, it simplifies the work of the designers.

In the paired, the situation is much more complicated - indicators of temperature and humidity change in very wide limits. In addition, the arrival rate / air flow in various situations may differ at times. Such preliminary conditions make it almost impossible to perform the accurate calculation of the optimal multiplicity of air exchange with natural ventilation.

Some Ban owners are afraid to suffocate during the adoption of bath procedures due to lack of oxygen. We bring to their note that one cubic meter of air to one person is enough for breathing one and a half hours. Calculate the cube of the steam room and learn how much time you can safely steam, the bill goes to dozens of hours.

Problems can cause ditching gas. If you have closed the furnace girlfriend until the firewood is complete, no ventilation will help. It can ventilate the room only if the carbon monoxide does no longer. Combinate the furnace correctly and never alone, do not wear in vain on ventilation.

How to make a vent hole in the wall of the bath

For example, we will take the most difficult option - the external and inner cover of the walls of the bath has already been made. The hole can be round, square or rectangular.

Step 1. Make the location markup of the product on the inside of the steam room. Before starting work, you should not only know the location of the hole, but also its size and configuration. It is desirable that the air ducts and decorative grilles are in stock, it will make it possible to accurately control the sizes of the opening and do not make extra work.

Step 2. Prepare a long tree drill, the working length must exceed the wall thickness of the bath together with the outer and internal trim. In the center of the drawn contour of the product, drill through a hole from the inside of the steam room. The output of the drill outside the steam room will be the center of the product. Draw around it the size of the opening, similar to the steam room.

Step 3. Remove the elements of the internal and external sheat in the circuit. If your bath is covered with natural lining on both sides, the process is simplified, just carefully cut the boards. If metal sheets were used on the outside - use the grinder.

Step 4. Carefully inspect the carrying structures, if damaged - repaired. On the contour of the ventilation product, the cross-cutting holes are as close to each other, constantly check, in which place they come out from the outside of the wall. The drill must constantly be perpendicular to the plane. Drill the same holes over the entire area of \u200b\u200bproduction, the more they are, the easier it is to make a hole in the wall.

Video - How to drill a hole of a large diameter in the tree

Step 5.. Next you need to work with bites and chisel, gradually remove the wooden jumpers between the holes. To fully extend the hole on one side of the wall will not be able - too hard to get to the tool. Make half of the work from the inside of the steam room, and the second half is outside. Thoroughly align the surface of the holes is not necessary, the main thing is that the air duct can be easily placed in the channel.

The most difficult physical work is made, you can start installing the air duct and the lattices. Do not be discouraged if there is a lot of time to do the holes, even the experienced builders rarely can prepare more than two production per day.

How to install ducts and grilles

For air ducts, you can take metal galvanized or plastic pipes, the length is determined by the passage length. Pick the hole in size to adjust the ventilation efficiency on it should be dampers.

Step 1. Mineral wool Inseulate the plane of the opening, gently insert the air duct into place. In order to firmly fix the pipe in the desired position, use the mounting foam. Speaking excess foam should be cut after frozen.

Step 2. If there is a waterproofing between the trim and wall, treat the clearance of the wall between the wall and the hole in the foam overlap, it seals the space of the cut and exclude water from entering wooden structures.

Step 3. Fasten the lattice, the mounting method depends on the material of the manufacture of wall cladding and crate.

Check the performance of the ventilation using a glowing head or other smoke source. Apply it to the inlet and watch how the air flows in the steam room are moving at what speed.

In the photo Valve of air inflows and its performance inspection

Experiment with natural ventilation with different positions of dampers, from the maximum to the minimum.

Video - installation of valve CPV 125

Video - Ventilation in a bath with oven-air conditioning thermoform