Puttying the corners of a two-level ceiling begins with the installation of perforated corners

If you do not live in a round tower without windows and doors, then your home must have corners - internal and external. And during the repair, you have to decide how to finish them so that they turn out perfectly smooth and protected from mechanical stress.
If the joint between the walls and the ceiling or floor is easy to hide with a plinth / cornice, then the filling of the inner corners between the walls and the outer corners formed by window and door slopes, niches and ledges should be done with high quality. To simplify this task, special perforated corners are used, the purpose and types of which you will learn from this article.

Perforated corners are often referred to as painting or plastering corners as they are used during plastering / plastering to reinforce corners before decorative finishing.
They serve two purposes:

• They reinforce the corners, especially the outer ones, give them additional strength and resistance to damage. It is no secret that protruding corners are more often than flat surfaces exposed to chips, scratches and other mechanical influences, for example, when large furniture is carried through a doorway.
• They allow you to quickly and easily arrange the joint of perpendicular surfaces, to make it even and clear. This, in turn, facilitates the subsequent finishing: it is easier to glue wallpaper or tiles in even, not "overwhelmed" corners, the result is better.

What are the corners?

Materials for making

First of all, these products differ in the type of raw materials from which they are made.
There are three main types:

• Galvanized steel. Robust, reliable, corrosion resistant thanks to zinc coating on all sides.
  However, prolonged use in humid environments may cause rust stains.

• Aluminum. Lightweight, durable, non-corrosive. But they are not resistant to close proximity to copper and some other substances.

• PVC (polyvinyl chloride). The price of these products is the lowest, and they have no less advantages than metal corners.
  First of all, it is absolute inertness to moisture and aggressive chemicals - plastic corners do not corrode, do not rot, do not deform.

For reference. PVC products are becoming more and more popular every year. There are various modifications of plastic perforated corners on sale, including those combined with a serpyanka tape and with an adhesive applied to the inner surface to facilitate installation.

Configurations

The line where two surfaces meet is not always straight. When making arches (see How to beautifully decorate a plasterboard arch), curved multi-level plasterboard ceilings and other structures, it can take very intricate forms. Such corners simply cannot be protected with the products shown above.
Special arched corners are produced for them. Most often, the raw material for their manufacture is plastic polyvinyl chloride. An arched corner for putty differs from a straight one in that one of its sides is cut with "petals", which allow it to be bent in any direction with any radius of curvature.

Curved corners are much more difficult to give a clear shape when finishing, especially if you do not have a certain skill in putty and plaster. Arched corners allow you to do this without any problems.

How to mount perforated corners

We will tell you in detail how to finish the corners with your own hands using the described products.
Let's take one of the most difficult options, when you need to "bring out" the joints of window or door openings with walls, when plastering which the workers did not bother themselves with keeping the level.

Note. When finishing the corners formed by sheets of drywall, such problems usually do not arise: their surface is even and smooth, and the sheets themselves, as a rule, are attached to a frame brought out at the level. In such cases, it is most reasonable to use PVC corners with an adhesive inner surface.

So, the putty of the corners of the walls and slopes begins with the installation of the corners, which is carried out in the following sequence:

• Measure the length of each seam and cut the corners to size. Plastic ones are cut with ordinary scissors or a painting knife, metal ones - with metal scissors;

• To avoid thickening due to the overlap of the corners, their outer side is cut off at an angle of 45 degrees;
• Then a building level is applied to each side of the slope in order to determine the degree of its evenness and "blockage" in one direction or another. On the wall, you can make notes so that you know where to apply more putty, much less;
• Prepare the required amount of mortar and apply it to the slope on both sides, but not in a continuous layer, but at intervals, focusing on the marks made earlier;
• Attach a corner to the slope on top of the putty slaps and lightly press into it so that a small part is squeezed out through the holes;
• After removing the squeezed out mortar with a spatula, use a level to check the vertical or horizontal position of the corner. Get it in the correct position by pressing harder where required;
• Further, the instruction requires you to wait a while for the putty to grab and fix the corner. Then you can putty the corner, filling the empty spaces with the solution and leveling the adjacent surfaces.

Advice. If the corners and walls are practically even, you can immediately use the finishing putty. If they require serious correction, it is better to start with the starting one, and apply the finishing one with a second layer.

As in the case of a straight plane, the ideal smoothness of the corner is achieved by sanding (see How to sand the walls after putty and how to do it correctly). In the process of grinding, it is advisable to smooth the corner itself a little, round it off - this will facilitate the subsequent finishing and make it more resistant to mechanical damage.

Conclusion

Professional finishers easily cope with the task of aligning corners and without any additional fixtures. But they often use perforated corners precisely for the purpose of giving the protruding joints more strength. You can see how they do this in the video in this article. And try to repeat during renovation. This is not difficult.

When facing a house, the right choice of components is of great importance. The inner and outer corners for siding will simplify the work and give the structure to perfection. Such details are broken down into several main categories, used depending on the situation. Installation of extras will not be difficult, provided that simple rules are followed.

Purpose and characteristics of corner elements

The use of products is determined by the selected variety. All products are divided into groups that differ in their functions.

Simple and complex corner siding elements

Simple

The main purpose is to create the desired decorative look. Also, the parts play a protective role, preventing the penetration of atmospheric precipitation and wind. They have the usual shape with an angle of 90 degrees. Exhibited after the completion of the main works.

Due to its design, the bar completely covers the butt joints, forming a smooth transition. Although the colors of the elements can be very diverse, most often there are options for sale in light and dark versions.

The size range depends on the manufacturer, the most popular parameters are: width - 50 * 50 mm and 65 * 65, length - from 2 to 4 m.

Dimensions of corner fittings in different siding models differ

On a note! Alternatively, components of other finishing materials of the corresponding shape can be used.

Complex

The most preferred variety, which performs several functions:

• Simplified installation and increased reliability. Elements have a place to fix the edge of the siding, in appearance identical to the J-profile.

In the absence of a corner piece, it can be replaced with two J-profile strips

• Improving decorativeness. The detail covers the unattractive joint of two sections of the facade cladding. To create an additional visual effect, smooth, textured or embossed products can be used.
• Improving the protective parameters of the finish. Delimiting the area where the panels are located, the corner tightly closes the junction of the two walls of the house. This protects the base from moisture and other environmental influences.

The dimensions of complex elements also depend on the manufacturer. The most common parameters are:

1. External part: the width of the side sections is 65 * 65 and 100 * 100 (110 * 110) mm, the mounting width is 80 and 120 mm, the length is from 200 to 360 cm.
2. Internal corner (with one visible plane): the width is usually 80 mm, the length is the same as in the previous version.

Outside corner dimensions of complex shape for VOX siding

Basement

These products are often referred to as a separate group, but they can also be used to decorate façade areas. The elements are considered complex, although they have an appearance that imitates brick or stone cladding. The length of the parts is 42–47 cm, the side width is 9–16 cm.

Docking features

Since when installing fragments it is not always possible to use the whole part, there is a need for a connection along the length (height). There are several methods for this:

Overlapping mounting

A fairly common way to overlay the top element on the bottom one. Installation instructions:

1. The product located at the bottom must be set and marked with a level. To arrange the panels along the upper edge, the fastening sections are cut (5–6 mm).
2. The size of the overlaid fragment is determined, and 20–25 mm (overlap) is added to it. A fixing section is cut out from the part, the size of which is equal to the estimated overlap, plus 5 mm.
3. Products are connected.
4. Before fixing the corners, the gap between their internal parts is checked, it should be at least 9-10 mm.

The overlap of adjacent corner pieces must be 25 mm

Build-up

A transition can also be formed by extending the section with an overlay. For these purposes, a trim of the applied element is used. The technology is as follows:

1. The size of the working fragment is 10–15 cm. On its inner surface, on both sides, the siding fixation points are cut to a width of 20 mm plus 7–8 mm. Due to the fact that the insert is the junction of the upper and lower sections, its dimensions must be taken into account in the general calculations of the length of the corner.
2. It is quite simple to connect all the elements, for this they must be installed in the exact sequence: the product is exposed from the ground or the base, the connection is made, after which the rest of the space is formed, everything is fixed. As a result, you get two overlaps. There must be a gap of at least 5–6 mm between the inner sides of all joints.

Connection of the outer corner profile: a - through the glue strip; b - through the punched pad; 2 - top profile panel; 3 - bottom panel; 4 - pad

A significant drawback of the method is the possibility of moisture penetration, therefore, in addition, an elastic sealant must be used.

Other methods have many more disadvantages and are not recommended for use.

On a note! When mounting fragments of the base / plinth series, you can use the starting corner strip as an additional part.

Installation of corner profiles

Fastening of fittings takes place at a certain stage of finishing work and includes a number of mandatory actions.

Inner corner

You can attach it using the following algorithm:

1. The product is exposed after fixing the starting bar. There are two options for fitting: the first is to create a gap between the extrusions, the second is to trim the bottom of the corner piece, which allows the initial segment to be flush. Due to the fact that the inner part of the frame is not always located at an angle of 90 degrees, if necessary, the part can be slightly bent. This will ensure a snug and even fit.
2. Gaps are left above and below to compensate for expansion.
3. The element should be fastened with self-tapping screws. If the existing holes do not fit, then additional ones are cut with your own hands. The screw is screwed in in the center at a right angle with a gap of 1 mm.

This angle is also used when sheathing the overhang of the gable and roof.

Outer element

An external part of a complex shape is most preferable for outdoor work. Installation is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. The element is applied to the corner, the location is marked. If necessary, a site for building is determined.
2. Taking into account the gap, the starting bar is set.
3. The outer segment descends 4–5 mm from the initial fragment, but with a mandatory gap above and below.
4. If required, the corner can be bent slightly to the desired direction. This is especially true when working without lathing.
5. Fixation is carried out on self-tapping screws according to the same principle as the previous version.

The outer corner segment is used for finishing window and door openings, acting as a casing.

You should know! Simple elements are attached on top of the created skin, for this, holes are drilled in them.

Fastening a simple corner over the siding

To get the job done right, you can follow these simple tips:

• The selection of components of the same brand as the selected siding will save you from fitting problems.
• Trimming is done using a grinder, metal scissors or an electric jigsaw.
• It is imperative to create gaps between the mounting profiles and fasteners.
• Better to refuse too cheap products. Due to thermal expansion, it can deform and pull the entire wall cladding with it.

If you choose the right material and do the work correctly, then finishing the house will last for many years.

External corners must be leveled and reinforced during the repair process, for which it is necessary to use a perforated corner of various sections. Today we will tell you about attaching a perforated painting corner to an external plaster or plasterboard corner, as well as clarify the stages of work and the materials necessary for this.

Materials and tools

The corner has a central stiffening rib and side strips with perforations, which help the element to be securely fixed on the edges of the outer corner. You can fix the corner on gypsum plaster or starting putty, as a rule, a putty mixture is used to fix it on drywall, and gypsum plaster composition is used to fix it on plaster. External corners are not only vertical corners at the junction of two walls, but also cuts of plasterboard ceiling structures, as well as window and door slopes.

Instructions

For work, in addition to the corner and the material, you will need metal scissors, a spatula and a level. First, the perforated element is cut at an acute angle from the edges with scissors, then a small amount of Rotband or Start putty is kneaded and installation begins.

When fixing at an angle from gypsum plasterboard, a minimum amount of putty is required, it is applied with a spatula along the edges of the outer corner, the corner is applied to the base and pressed tightly. Remnants of the mixture that have made their way through the perforation are removed. In this case, you can do without a level, because the gypsum boards are attached exactly and there is no point in doing the same job twice. With ideally even corners of the gypsum board structures, the corner is fixed with a stapler.

When attaching the corner to the plaster, most often the angle must be trimmed, therefore the gypsum mixture is applied with strokes of greater thickness, the corner is applied without pressing and only then it is pressed with a level until it is completely aligned vertically. Since in some places of the outer corner the corner protrudes above the surface of the side walls by 3-4, and sometimes by 5-7 mm, then after fixing the element of the hole on the wall, it is necessary to close it with a plaster mixture using a spatula wide from 40 cm.

Putty and plaster for fixing the corner should be kneaded only in a plastic bucket, pouring water into it first and then adding the dry mixture and kneading it with a mixer. The consistency of the mixture is from "thick sour cream" for gypsum board and gypsum plasterboard to liquid plasticine for plaster corners with large differences.

Conclusion

In conclusion, we note that, in addition to painting, there are plaster corners, which, instead of perforation, have a rigid mesh on the sides, they are used only in plastering work, fixing directly into the mortar body at an angle and plastic elements for curved corners.

Below you can see a video on attaching a perforated corner.

Now we will consider a fairly simple screed - a furniture corner. There are many varieties of them that differ in appearance, the number of screws and material (plastic, metal), but the basic diagram is always the same: a corner fixed with screws.

Let's take a look at the installation process using the example of a plastic corner with a removable cover. But no !!! There is even a trick here. If you screw the corner incorrectly, then it will not tighten anything and a gap will form between the parts.

The first step is to determine the size from the edge to the center of the hole (this size is individual for each corner). For the corners in question (with a removable cover) 15 mm.

Now we decide on the location of the parts to be pulled together: one of them necessarily rests against the second.

We need a detail number 2. We put all such details separately and proceed to the marking (for this it is convenient to use a carpenter's square.

The marked pencil marks are easily lubricated, so it is advisable to immediately deepen them with an awl or (as I have been doing recently - with a dowel, hitting it with a hammer). It is necessary to postpone not 15 mm, but 16 !!!(later it will be clear why.

We put a corner opposite the hole and wrap a self-tapping screw into it - the self-tapping screw is screwed into the hole marked with an awl much better. The corner installed in this way does not adjoin the edge of the part with its edge, but is 1 mm away from it.

Now, when we attract the second part, this millimeter will be closed by a deforming corner (and plastic is still a fairly plastic material), but the tension of the material will allow the parts to be pulled together without gaps.

We have considered the main screeds with which furniture is assembled, now we turn to the consideration of the simplest, but extremely common modules. Let's start with the drawer.