Water heating is not always a silent heating system. Sometimes strange sounds can be heard coming from the pipelines. Some of them are completely harmless and can be ignored, while others serve as a signal of serious problems. Let's try to figure out why the water is making noise in the heating pipes, and what can be done about it.

What types of noise can pipelines emit?

The sounds emanating from the elements of heating systems are legendary. Under certain circumstances, not only heating pipes make noise in the house, but also other pipelines. At the same time, the range of sound for all sanitary systems is approximately the same. The most "musical" are metal pipes, but plastic ones can also "please" with unusual melodies. A hot water heating system can emit a wide variety of sounds:

• murmur;
• gurgling;
• rattling;
• knock;
• crackle;
• clicks;
• whistling;

Specific sounds signal the presence of malfunctions in the heating system, therefore, it is necessary to quickly identify and eliminate the source of noise, since its systematic effect on a person leads to disorders of the nervous system, interferes with sleep and reduces performance.
Why is water making noise in heating pipes?

Noise in heating pipes is caused by the following reasons:

• air locks;
• high speed of movement of the coolant, due to an incorrectly selected diameter of the pipeline or a decrease in the internal clearance of the pipe due to overgrowing of its walls;
• coolant leakage in emergency areas or through poorly closed valves;
• scale detached from the pipe walls or debris that got into the circuit during installation;
• faulty or incorrectly installed valves;
• excessive pump power or its installation with violations;
• wear of control valves or thermostatic heads;
• cavitation - the formation of steam bubbles in the coolant in the area of ​​a sharp increase in the diameter of the pipeline (the appearance of a low pressure area), followed by their collapse, destroying the equipment;
• violations of the installation technology (use, non-observance of the minimum distance between parallel sections of the metal pipeline during installation, installation of a filter or valve not in the direction of flow indicated on it, etc.).

Important! Central heating is always noisy. When the system is filled, the murmur of the coolant is heard, the heating of the circuit is accompanied by clicks, and the air coming out of it is a whistle. Maintenance of heating equipment before start-up can also be performed using shock. These noises usually disappear when the system is operational and are not a cause for concern.

If extraneous sounds appeared in the midst of the heating season or did not disappear after the start-up took place, then this is a signal of the presence of malfunctions, and malfunctions should be looked for not only at oneself or neighbors in the riser, but also at the heating point or elevator unit - the source of trouble may be far away outside the home, as sound waves travel well through pipes.

Ways to neutralize noise

The source of noise often ends up in the locations of common building communications. The coolant pressure at the heating mains input unit is the highest, therefore, the slightest malfunctions in it can immediately declare themselves in the form of strange sounds throughout the entire entrance. In a private house, the noisiest place is the furnace or heat generator, where the boiler and the entire piping system are located.

On a note: Aluminum and bimetallic radiators are especially sensitive to pressure drops. Thin metal transmits any vibrations through itself, like a horn. In such heating devices, the slightest technological noise becomes amplified.

If the problem turns out to be a malfunction of the equipment of the collective property, then it is not worth fixing it yourself. Worn out components can literally crumble at the slightest attempt to unwind them, and all the blame will be placed on the one who unauthorizedly intervened in the operation of the "perfectly debugged" system. It is better to send a complaint to the service organization and patiently wait for their representative to repair faulty components.

A visual reminder with the coordinates of the addressees if you need to apply for housing and communal services

If you managed to diagnose problems within your own or a neighbor's home, then you should deal with their elimination as soon as possible. In this case, any delay is fraught with aggravation of the situation and complication of repair work.

How to get rid of noise in the heating system

Each malfunction in the heating system creates a type of noise characteristic only for it, which is a hint in the diagnosis. The list of measures to be taken depends on what sounds are emitted by the heating pipes.

Buzz, howl

The loudest and most unpleasant kind of noise. Pipes can buzz out of the blue and give rise to poltergeist stories. Nevertheless, mysticism has nothing to do with it, and communication with spirits from the noise in the pipes will not save.

When a hum appears, you need to look for a coolant leak. First of all, a thorough inspection of your home is carried out, then all neighboring apartments. If it is dry everywhere, the search continues in the basement. A cloud of steam, a puddle or a whistle will help you easily identify where the water is leaking out. In apartment buildings, repairs will be carried out by the management company, in a private house - by the owner of the property. After inspecting the problem area, a decision is made on how to eliminate the malfunction - by repairing or replacing the unit, sometimes it is enough just to tighten the poorly closed valve.

Another reason for the hum can be the use of pipes in the heating system with a diameter smaller than the calculated one. In this case, the problem area is determined by ear, and the required section of the pipeline is replaced with material with a higher permeability. With the correct selection of the pipe and high-quality performance, you no longer have to listen to the pipes hum.

Distribution center of the central heating system in the basement of an old apartment building

Bubbling, crackling and clicking

Particles of debris, sludge or peeling scale, when moving through the pipes, beat against the walls and rub against them, creating a noise in the form of crackling or bubbling. A clicking sound is also a characteristic sound when clogged. To eliminate this kind of noise, it is necessary to flush the system.

Foreign objects in the pipes will click until they come out. Therefore, all liquid is drained from the system through the drain cock. Using a hose, the old coolant with debris is sent to the sewer, the system is additionally flushed with water (steel pipes are tapped from the outside with a wooden mallet to peel off the scale from the inside), after which the heating circuit is refilled.

Important! Before draining dirty water, it is better to dismantle the drain valve in order to allow large fragments of debris to come out and not clog the shut-off device with them.

Quite often, pipes crack and click due to a malfunctioning valve or installing it not in the direction of flow. The bent-shaped passage hole is easily clogged, and over time a plug can form in it, completely blocking the movement of the coolant. Partial blockage of the pipe lumen by debris creates noise when water passes. If the valve is located the other way around, then the liquid enters it not from the lower side of the shut-off disc, but from above, which leads to the destruction of the stem and the separation of the valve. In this case, the movement of the coolant will also be accompanied by noise.

The most rational way out of the situation is to replace the valve, since it is already partially worn out in the wrong position and therefore unpredictable after reinstallation. In the absence of a new unit, you can temporarily install the old one by replacing the sealing material of the threaded connections.

Advice: When choosing a new shut-off and control valves, you need to keep in mind that ball (plug) valves are much more practical in operation, can be installed in any direction and are not as sensitive to blockages as screw valves.

If you close the ball valve tightly, then it can also become a source of noise. This is not a malfunction and can be remedied by opening it slightly or closing it completely. Valves with thermostatic heads can also make noise if the temperature set on them is close to the actual room temperature. In this case, the entrance to the radiator is not completely closed, and the coolant passes through a small hole with a characteristic sound. To get rid of the noise, simply twist the head towards the sprocket.

Murmur, whistle

When air accumulates, it becomes audible how water murmurs in the heating pipes - a very common phenomenon. Air can enter the system during repair work, be sucked in through loose connections - an air lock, regardless of origin, interferes with the normal circulation of the coolant. Not only does the water gurgle annoyingly at the same time, but also the heating devices do not heat up properly. If an air lock forms, blocking the pipe lumen completely, the radiators after the problem section of the pipeline will remain cold.

Air always collects at the top of the system, as it is lighter than water. It is there that special valves or automatic air collectors are usually installed. Radiators located at the end of the horizontal branch must be equipped with a Mayevsky crane. In some types of systems, each heater has a so-called "air vent". Nodes of modern designs can be easily turned by hand; older ones will have to be controlled with an adjustable wrench or screwdriver.

First of all, you need to try to bleed air from the radiators of your apartment. The operation starts with the coldest device, if any. It is often local air locks that interfere with heating. If this does not work, then you need to ask the neighbors from the upper floor to find an appropriate tap and open it. In difficult situations, it is better to call a qualified plumber. A characteristic whistle serves as an indicator of success - the release of air.

Advice: To avoid getting burned, open the Mayevsky tap slowly, being careful - hot water in the system is under pressure. In addition, to collect water that will flow out of the radiator, it is necessary to first prepare a container of sufficient volume with a wide neck.

Knock, rattle

Knocking is usually caused by a poorly secured piping or radiator bracket. The slightest vibration when the coolant passes through such a unit causes a rattling sound, and with a strong loosening of the supports, the radiator hits the fasteners. The system will stop making noise if the brackets are firmly fixed. To dampen vibrations, a heat-resistant rubber gasket can be installed between the device and the support.

Sometimes knocking can be caused by parallel or intersecting pipes being too close. With temperature deformations, one pipeline begins to touch another, beat against it and becomes a source of noise. Sound insulation can save the situation if the available gap is enough to accommodate it. Otherwise, to eliminate knocking, you will have to shift the problem area.

In some cases, knocking on heating pipes in apartment buildings is caused by the discontent of neighbors. This type of noise is usually characterized by a lack of periodicity and arises in the form of a reaction to certain provoking actions. But all residents have to "enjoy" specific sounds. Here, technical measures will not help, sound insulation can only partially save. Conflicts with neighbors are resolved only through dialogue and diplomacy.

Expert advice on how to avoid unwanted sounds in the heating circuit

The likelihood of noise in heating pipes can be reduced by adhering to the following professional recommendations:

Important! In search of the source of the noise, a dry stick (the handle of a shovel) can help, one end of which is pressed tightly to the ear, and the other, alternately to the elements of the heating system. In a problem area, the noise will manifest itself louder and clearer.

Conclusion

In this article, at the household level, the question is considered: what to do if the heating pipes are noisy? The first and most important step is to locate the source. Then you need to objectively assess your strengths and the possible consequences of trying to eliminate the malfunction in order to decide whether to take up the troubleshooting immediately or postpone the repair work until the end of the heating season.

Some of the problems in the operation of heating can be eliminated with your own hands, but in difficult cases you cannot do without specialists. In apartment buildings, it is better to entrust the solution to the issue to the utilities, while not forgetting about the control of their actions. By reacting in a timely manner to the noise in the pipes, you will save your health and nerves, as well as save the heating system from more serious damage.

Everyone who has water heating in the house or apartment has encountered such a phenomenon as noise in pipes. Let us consider it in more detail, because this is a sign of improper operation of the system, improperly selected instruments and devices according to the technical characteristics, or an incorrectly assembled pipeline diagram.

The long-term practice of operating heating assembled on pipes made of different materials has shown that heating pipes made of steel or cast iron make the noise more often and loudest. But a metal-plastic or PVC pipeline can also generate noise in the heating system of this order: bubbling in a boiler or in pipes, gurgling, clicks and knocks, crackling and rattling, whistling. Each such sound indicates a specific breakdown or cause of the noise. But in addition to identifying the cause of the noise, we can learn what to do to eliminate this or that noise.

Let's list the main reasons why the heating pipes of a private house or apartment in a high-rise building are buzzing:

1. Airing in the heating system;
2. Strong noise in the heating pipes may appear due to the high speed of movement of the working fluid, which can happen if the diameter of the pipes is incorrectly selected, and also due to the fact that metal pipes over time become covered from the inside with lime and mineral deposits;
3. If water gurgles, this means that the coolant flows through a crack in the pipe, through an open valve, or through a poorly sealed threaded connection;
4. There may be such reasons: rust or scale peeled off and clogged the pipe, so the pipeline gurgles;
5. Incorrect installation of valves and other equipment;
6. If you turn on the circulation pump and there are noises, hum or hum, then the reason for this may be too high pump power;
7. Depreciation (wear) of fittings or thermostats;
8. Also, the water in the heating system of a private house can make noise due to the fact that the steam in the superheated coolant flowing from a pipe of a smaller diameter to a pipe of a larger diameter and vice versa collapses loudly and makes noise from the heating system.

How to neutralize pipe noise

The source of noise in the house is often the areas where the communications are located - the boiler room, the piping system, the collector, etc. Each malfunction in the heating system is accompanied by its own original sounds and noises, therefore, it is often possible to diagnose a malfunction precisely by the way the water murmurs;

1. Humming or howling in the heating pipes is due to leaking working fluid. Usually, the leak is easy to detect visually, the leak is corrected by repairing the site or replacing the broken unit.
2. The hum is caused by incorrect calculations of the pipe diameters: the diameter is less than the calculated one - this is a mandatory hum or seething;
3. Cracking or clicks in pipes are the result of debris, salts or scale entering the line. Particles rubbing against the pipe walls cause a gurgling sound. Clicks are also a sign of pipeline clogging. This phenomenon is eliminated by full flushing of the system with preliminary draining of the old coolant;
4. If the valve is installed in the opposite direction, then the pipes in a private or apartment building will also crack and click. Elimination - correct installation or replacement of fittings;
5. A tightly closed ball valve can also generate noise. Elimination of such noises or gurgling is done by weakening the stem;
6. In addition, faucets with thermostats make noise and pipes hum if the set temperature coincides with the real temperature in the room. You can get rid of unpleasant sounds by turning the thermal head towards the asterisk;
7. Murmurs and whistles in the mains are caused by the accumulation of air in the heating system of the house. Noises are usually accompanied by cooling of radiators, since the air blocks the movement of the coolant through the pipes, and heat is unevenly distributed throughout the premises;

Important: When choosing new valves, please note that ball valves last longer and can be cut into the system in any direction. Ball valves also clog up much less often than screw ones.

Air locks always stop at the top level of the system, therefore automatic air collectors, bleed valves or valves must be installed at such points. The last radiators in the circuit should be equipped with a Mayevsky crane. If you find out why the water is murmuring, and these are air locks in the system, then you need to bleed air from the batteries. You should start with the coldest radiator.

1. Knocking and Bouncing: The main riser can be filled with sounds due to poor pipe or battery mountings. Even a slight acceleration of the coolant causes the radiator to knock against the wall, the rattling of the brackets on the radiator, and other noises. In addition, even the chimney will make noise if the heating pipes pass close to the metal chimney. Such noises in heating an apartment or private house are eliminated by installing rubber or silicone gaskets between the adjacent vibrating surfaces of devices and appliances;
2. Pipes that are closely spaced or intersecting may also knock or rattle. The noise source must be soundproofed or the installation scheme must be redone;

Tips for avoiding extraneous noise and sounds

In order not to hum in the carriage or in the house, it is necessary to follow certain rules and expert advice that follow from the practice of installing and operating heating appliances and devices:

1. When welding polypropylene (PVC) pipes with a soldering iron, it is necessary to maintain the exact heating time of the connected elements, since due to the heating temperature exceeding, the working clearance inside the pipe decreases, and due to the underheating of the parts, the reliability of the seam decreases and the possibility of cracking increases;
2. The pipes of the heating circuit located close to each other should be wrapped in several (at least one layer) layers of heat and noise insulation;
3. When welding a metal heating circuit, it is necessary to use only high-quality electrodes of the required brand;
4. All upper points of the heating circuit and all heating devices (especially the last radiators in the circuit) should be equipped with Mayevsky taps, through which air is released from the system;
5. It is recommended to cut shut-off valves, taps, valves and filters of coarse and fine cleaning into the pipes in the corresponding direction of movement of the working fluid, indicated by the arrow on the device;
6. The power of the circulation pump must be calculated in advance in accordance with the heating wiring diagram and the equipment in use;
7. Batteries, registers or radiators must be mounted on the walls only horizontally (checked with a level) in order to prevent air locks in the case;
8. During soldering or welding, it is necessary to ensure that scale, metal splashes, drops of plastic do not fall into the pipeline - such a blockage will lead to pipe noises and fill the riser with sounds of unknown origin;
9. What should I do to keep the circulating pump running quietly or as quietly as possible? The unit is installed on vibration inserts (rubber or silicone washers, pads) and the pump casing is closed with a noise-proof casing;
10. An autonomous heating system with several pumps (circulation, injection, pumping out) requires a more complete minimization of the system noise with the devices turned on. For this, there is a simple rule - all pumps must operate in a strictly calculated mode and not exceed the permissible loads. If the pump, after switching on, starts to make noise for a short time, and then the noise stops, this does not mean that everything is in order - check the operating mode of the unit and move it to the optimal position;
11. Try to install only high-quality elements, parts, assemblies, plumbing fixtures, fittings and fittings, use high-quality auxiliary materials - gaskets, seals, hardware, which will help reduce the level of noise or their occurrence;
12. It is recommended to flush the pipes of the system before and at the end of the heating season - this measure will prevent the appearance of salt mineral deposits on the walls of the pipeline.

conclusions

All of the above noises and ways to prevent and eliminate them are aimed at optimizing the problem if pipes or heating equipment begin to make noise. The first important step in troubleshooting the problem is identifying the location of the source of the extraneous sound. The second step is to estimate the scope of work and the required amount of materials. The third stage is assessing the possibility of self-repair or eliminating noise in other ways, or determining the need to call specialists. Also, a situation may arise in which you can hold out with noises until the end of the heating season, which will facilitate the work to eliminate them when the boiler is off.

In a high-rise building, the communal service should solve such issues, but it is better to control their work. Timely identified the source of noise in the pipeline, you will save not only money and expensive equipment, but also your health.

Loud unpleasant sounds from various plumbing fixtures are not uncommon. Next, you will learn about the reasons for the noisy behavior of various plumbing fixtures and how to deal with it.

Loud unpleasant sounds from various plumbing fixtures are not uncommon. The murmur in the pipes and the toilet cistern, the humming tap and the obscene snort of the siphon - all this gets on your nerves and interferes with sleep. Next, you will learn about the reasons for the noisy behavior of various plumbing fixtures and how to deal with it.

The toilet cistern makes a noise

The loudest sound made by the toilet is the noise of flushing water. You won't be able to get rid of it, but you can slightly muffle it by lowering the seat cover. But the sound of filling the tank is quite possible to make it almost inaudible. This problem arises with a side connection, since the water jet in this case is directed vertically downward.

Falling, it creates a decent noise, which continues until the shut-off valve is triggered. There are two solutions to this problem: to run water through a thin hose so that it does not hit, but flows down it to the very bottom, or tie a strip of cloth to the shut-off valves, which also reaches the bottom of the tank.

It happens that the splash of water flowing into the toilet bowl is constantly heard. In this case, the tank cannot be filled. This is due to improperly adjusted fittings or due to incomplete closing of one of the valves. In the first case, you need to adjust: lower the float, and if necessary, raise the overflow pipe. Please note that its edges must be at least two centimeters from the surface of the water.

If everything is adjusted correctly, and the tank is still gradually overfilling, then the stop valve gaskets are not tight. Possible causes are wear and tear or plaque formation. It is necessary to disassemble the fittings and thoroughly wash everything with soap. If it does not help, replace the gaskets.

It happens that the problem is in the drain fittings - the tank does not fill, although the water flows continuously. Try unscrewing the button and reducing the length of the stem: it may not allow the valve mechanism to return to its original position and close the drain hole. Other options are wear of gaskets, plaque, contamination of the mechanism. What to do in these cases is written just above.

Loud noises in the sewers

Modern plastic sewerage has one drawback: you can hear very well how water flows down it. Although the sound permeability of the material itself is much lower than that of the same cast iron, the walls of polymer pipes are rather thin. If these noises are very annoying, it is worth taking measures to eliminate them. There are many materials that are suitable for soundproofing pipes: from the usual foam rubber to expanded polyethylene. For greater aesthetics, you can hide the sewer in plastic or plasterboard boxes, or cover it with ceramic tiles.

The crane is buzzing

Of all the instruments in a plumbing orchestra, the buzzing tap is the loudest. Worst of all, his hacking roar is perfectly transmitted through the pipes and is able to wake up all the neighbors in the riser. Fortunately, only rubber-padded taps and faucets are the only source of hum, which is unpleasant. Its most likely cause is the deformation of the bottom edge of the gasket. But if it is not the mixer that makes noise, but the coupling valve, then pay attention to the flow direction arrow. Perhaps it was installed incorrectly, which is why it is buzzing.

To eliminate the malfunction, you need to unscrew the crane-axle box, trim the edge of the elastic band with scissors or replace it with a new one. However, this will only help for a while. Very soon, the tap will buzz again, so you will have to change and cut the gaskets regularly. It is better to immediately replace the crane axle box with a ceramic one and forget about this problem.

Siphon gurgles

Surely everyone has heard the snort of the siphon, which is heard after the water leaves the sink. This happens quite often due to the low throughput of the sewage system. This is due to insufficient pipe slope or blockage. In this case, the water, flowing down, fills the entire available lumen. Continuing to move, it leaves behind a vacuum area, into which it begins to suck air through a siphon. This is where the unpleasant sounds of a water seal are heard.

First of all, inspect the siphon tube for clogging and, if necessary, clean it. If not, make sure that the drain has the required 3% slope. If not, you will need to raise it. It's a troublesome business, but worth it. And even not so much to eliminate noise, but to prevent blockages, which will not take long if the pipe is sloped incorrectly. So you have to partially disassemble the lounger, rearrange the fasteners to the required height and reassemble everything. If the slope is in order, then arm yourself with a cable to clear the sewer and eliminate the blockage.

Noisy metal-plastic plumbing

After replacing steel pipes with metal-plastic, for many, the loud sound of flowing water becomes an unpleasant surprise. This is due to local narrowing in the fittings. The flow rate in such places increases, hence the noise. You cannot completely get rid of it, but at the stage of purchasing materials, you can take care of its reduction. Take a closer look at the fittings you purchase. Some have internal cones on both sides of the choke, while others do not. Fittings without cones are cheaper, but they will be much more noisy because they create more resistance to flow. So if you want silence, you shouldn't take them.

Water gurgles in the heating system

The heating system is usually silent. However, she sometimes begins to make quiet sounds. During the day they are almost inaudible, but in the silence of the night they are perfectly distinguishable. Irregular bursts of a stream running through pipes and radiators interfere with sleep and activate unwanted reflexes. Water gurgles in the airy areas of the system, since only there can it splash. To solve the problem in the apartment, it is necessary to release the air by opening the taps on the radiators. But it happens that the reason for the noise is too fast flow of the coolant. There is nothing you can do about it, except to complain to the management company.

In private houses, which are often heated by a water circuit made of large-diameter pipes, everything is a little more complicated. Such a system should have a slope from the supply to the return of at least 0.5% to avoid the formation of air pockets during feeding. If the pipes were laid with a slope in the opposite direction, then the heating will certainly be airborne. True, it will babble only when the circulation pump is running.

In this case, it is not necessary to redo the system. First, you need to find a section with a reverse slope using a level and determine its upper point. Then weld the thread there, install the Mayevsky tap, and after filling the system, release the air.

Whistle in the gas water heater

For gas columns, the sounds of a burning flame and flowing water are characteristic, but sometimes they are mixed with a monotonous high-frequency whistle. Sometimes it is so loud that it is extremely difficult to endure it even for a short time. Both the gas path and the water path can whistle, so first you need to figure out exactly where the sound comes from.

To do this, turn off the gas tap from which the column is powered and turn on hot water. By the absence or resumption of whistling, it will be possible to determine where to look for its cause. If everything is quiet, it means that the gas path should be recognized as responsible for the hellish serenade, and in the case of a repetition of an unpleasant sound, the water path.

The most common cause of such a trill is a structural defect in the valve, which is responsible for modulating the flame. Whistling in this case is observed only in one specific power range, when there is an ideal combination of valve lumen width and gas flow velocity for it. To get rid of the problem, it is enough to change the position of the regulator up or down. With a decrease in power, the gas flow rate will become insufficient for the appearance of sound, and with an increase in power, the valve opening will be too wide.

Another possible cause is a blockage in the gas path. This usually happens due to the ingress of a foreign object, for example, scale or a piece of winding. In this case, the whistle is usually observed over a wide power range. To determine in which particular area or node the blockage occurred, the gas path will have to be disassembled, examined and cleaned. For such work, the appropriate qualifications are needed, so it is better to entrust it to the masters of the Gorgaz or a private company that has a license for this.

It happens that an unpleasant sound comes from the water tract. The reason, most likely, is again in the blockage. In this case, a decrease in the performance of the heater should be observed. In addition to a foreign object, this can also cause scale on the inner walls of the radiator. It begins to appear if the water temperature in the column regularly exceeds 60 °.

It is often possible to get rid of a foreign object with the help of a reverse flow. To do this, you must first shut off the water and gas supply to the heater. Then unscrew the eyeliner at the inlet and run the water in the opposite direction. The easiest way to do this is with a bathroom faucet, setting the shower switch to neutral and opening both taps slightly.

To remove lime deposits from the radiator of the column, you will need a descaler. You can also use citric acid or acetic acid solution. Before starting work, it is better to remove the radiator, so it will be more convenient. The agent should be poured gradually, adding as the reaction subsides. After filling the radiator, the liquid is drained, and the procedure is repeated 3-4 more times.

If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to the specialists and readers of our project.

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How to eliminate mixer noise?

Almost any person has come across such an unpleasant phenomenon when a strong, unpleasant noise is heard in the bathroom or in the kitchen when the tap is turned on. It is believed that the crane itself is faulty, which just needs to be changed, but how true is this statement? Why does a crane of any design make noise?

The reason for this is quite simple: when the mixer is turned on, the water flow passes through the cartridge installed inside. When the flow passes, there is a sharp drop in the pressure level inside, while a sharp noise is heard. This phenomenon is also called cavitation. The answer to the question posed is simple, but this does not calm the nerves. Such noise, which appears every time you use the tap in the bathroom, is very annoying, especially if there are small children in the house who can wake up from the noise. But this problem is not so difficult, it can be easily solved, you just need to figure out the type of mixer that is installed in your bathroom or kitchen, since the repair depends on this.

It is necessary to determine, when you turn on which tap, there is a hum - cold or hot. This will help to disassemble the crane not entirely, but only that part of it, when you turn it on, the problem arises.

We are looking for a problem in the design

Before you figure out why the crane is making noise, you need to understand what it is and what types there are. Faucets of a wide variety of designs are offered on the market today, among which the following are popular:

• conventional valve mixer;
• lever mixer;
• combined mixer;
• mixer for installing a hygienic shower.

Let's consider these types of structures for water supply in more detail.

Valve mixers are devices that have valves for supplying a water flow. In this case, the supply, volume, water temperature is regulated by turning the valve. A special device is placed under the decorative handle, the so-called crane-axle box, which can be ceramic or traditional with a rubber gasket. In this case, when the crane makes noise, the problem lies precisely in the crane-axle box. Rubber gaskets of a conventional device wear out over time and need to be replaced. In addition to noise, they can cause the tap to start leaking, that is, the gasket needs to be replaced with a new one. For a ceramic cartridge, the noise is caused by a special silicone insert that adjusts the ceramic rings. In this case, it is impossible to take and replace only the sagging liner; it is required to dismantle the entire crane.

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What about other mixer designs?

More modern is the lever mixer, which has no valves. A special lever is used to supply water, adjust the pressure, and its temperature. It can be rotated in different directions: up / down, right / left, depending on what result is needed. When this lever is moved up / down, the water is turned on / off, when moving left / right, it switches between cold and hot mode. Mixers of this type used today can be divided into two groups:

1. Ball valve, where the water supply is regulated by a special sphere with three holes. Hot and cold water flows through two of them, and the third provides a stream of the already required temperature. The lever adjusts the position of the sphere, that is, the temperature, the pressure supplied through the water outlet.
2. With ceramic cartridge. These valves are similar to ball valves, but they are more vulnerable. The pressure and temperature are adjusted by aligning the ceramic rings.

When the faucet makes a noise when turned on, for lever mixers this means that it is not the faucet itself that is faulty, but it is simply necessary to adjust the pressure in the supply pipe. This is a positive property of mixers of this type, which are not only convenient and economical to use, but also more reliable.

Combined mixers are designs that can be of valve type, but equipped with lever control.

In addition, hygienic shower mixers stand out separately. Here, the noise does not mean that the tap is not working properly, but that it is necessary to install equipment to control the pressure in the water pipes themselves.

As you can see, the conditions for the occurrence of noise in different types of mixers can be different, therefore, the repairs performed to eliminate the problem will also be different.

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Troubleshoot noise problems

The reasons why the mixer makes noise are varied, but they all agree on one thing - equipment malfunction. Most often, the crane makes noise due to a faulty crane-axle box, that is, a special mixer unit. They are conventional with a rubber gasket and ceramic. How to determine what type of crane axle box you have? It's pretty simple:

• if, when opening the water, the mixer valve turns only half a turn, then you have a ceramic element installed;
• if to turn on the water it is necessary to provide several turns of the valve, then your mixer definitely has a regular axle box with a rubber gasket.

One of the most widespread myths says that a mixer with a ceramic element cannot make noise, while ordinary crane axle boxes often become a source of strong and unpleasant noise. But this statement is fundamentally wrong.

Both ceramic and conventional axle boxes make the same noise in the event of a malfunction.

What to do if a crane with a conventional axle box hums? It is necessary to carry out repairs, observing the following procedure:

1. The first thing that needs to be done is to completely shut off the water supply that enters the mixer.
2. After that, you need to disassemble the structure, remove the valve from the axle box. To do this, it is enough to unscrew the special bolt that holds the valve (or lever).
3. After the valve is removed, it is necessary to carefully unscrew the valve-axle box, then remove the gasket from the rubber and inspect in what condition it is.
4. If the condition of the gasket is unsatisfactory, it just needs to be replaced with a new one, cutting the edge by about one mm. When performing such preparation, it is necessary to observe that the cut angle is not less than 45 °. Further, for sealing, the gasket is wrapped with fum tape and installed in the intended place.
5. After that, the crane-axle box is returned to its place, the valve is attached back, and the operability is checked. If everything is done correctly, the mixer no longer makes noise.