This article is the result of several experiments in making your own plastic. I hope the material presented below will be useful in scientific and applied creativity.

Step 1: what we need

For the experiment, we need the following:

• PVA glue;
• Talc;
• Mixing container;
• Plastic toothpick;
• Palette.

Step 2:

I installed a plastic toothpick (as a whisk) in the chuck of an engraver or mini-drill.

Step 3: mixing the solution

I admit that despite my efforts (closed the cup), most likely I lost a couple of grams of talc during mixing. I recommend adding talcum powder first and then adding glue.

I made a second batch, changing the proportions of 30 g of glue to 70 g of talc.

Step 4: drying

I made a palette from a cardboard box, pre-rubbed the surface of the cardboard with paraffin so that the samples would not stick to it.

I laid out the "test subjects". I tried to ensure that the samples were approximately the same thickness (both over the entire area and in relation to each other). Left to dry overnight.

Step 5: Analysis

After the samples were dry, carefully removed them from the palette.

The pure PVA sample remained light. The other two turned white with talcum powder.

It's time to run some tests.

Tactile test:

• The control sample was soft like a piece of latex.
• The 50/50 sample (glue / talcum powder) was resilient, bent strongly, but stretched much worse.
• The 70/30 was very tough but still flexed. Couldn't stretch it.

All samples were cut with a clerical knife. I expected a sample with a lot of talcum powder to cut through harder.

Step 6: processing

Now let's test how the resulting plastic can be processed.

Using an engraver (mini drill) and a small sander, I tried to form a right angle on each sample.

The test piece was so soft that it immediately buckled as soon as the drum touched it.

Sample 50/50. It turned out to be a nice clean corner, but the glue melted from the friction. As a result, a “edging” was formed, which significantly complicated further processing (a strong beating appeared).

Sample 70/30. Clean corner. "Kantika" no - minimal beating.

Step 7: exposure to fire

We introduce samples directly into the flame.

The control sample flashed immediately. The burning flame was great. During the combustion process, a significant amount of smoke was emitted.

Sample 50/50. Lasted about 60 seconds before the flame took over. The flame was small and spread slowly. The burned-out areas crumbled into dust.

Sample 70/30. Resisted for more than 3 minutes before it ignited. The flame was very small and died out 3-4 seconds after spreading 2 mm from the edge.

Step 8: shaping

This test was the most interesting.

If you make a large sheet of such plastic, will it be possible to form a blank out of it by heating?

Applied indirect heating to the samples and bent them at a 90-degree angle against the edge of the workbench. Then he left them to cool. As a result, we have the following:

The control sample bent under its own weight during heating. After it cooled down, put it on a flat surface and it became flat again.

Sample 50/50. It bent pretty well with a relatively small amount of warm-up. As soon as it cooled down, put it on a flat surface and saw the following: the sample lost its shape a little, the angle changed by about 20 degrees.

Sample 70/30. I had to warm it up significantly before bending it. The sample has cooled down, I put it on a flat surface and the angle has not lost more than one degree. He's still flexible, but always tries to get the 90 degree angle back.

Step 9: Conclusions

Plastic that is obtained by mixing PVA with talc in proportions 70/30:

• keeps its shape;
• amenable to mechanical processing;
• Not flammable.

Thank you for your attention. I sincerely hope that the presented material will be useful in the manufacture of various homemade products.

In this guide, I'll show you how to melt plastic at home. Remelting high density polyethylene (HDPE) plastic bottles and making them into blocks that can be used in a variety of ways.

We use and throw away a lot of plastic bottles every day ... Let's change that!

Dave Hackens is an amazing guy who has done a lot of videos about plastic recycling. He shows you how to collect, melt and process plastic items to create new things. However, if you just want to try recycling a few bottles, follow this quick guide.

Step 1: materials and tools

MATERIALS:

• High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) Bottles
• Wooden planks (for making a mold)

TOOLS:

• clamps
• baking paper
• gloves with thermal protection
• scissors / knife

Step 2: Form

It is not necessary to make a very complex mold for melting plastic.

Since we are going to melt the plastic into a regular block, we need a simple box. The more accurately and accurately the box is assembled, the more accurate and accurate the block will be.

As you can see from the above pictures, I used wood planks that were in my workshop, and I also covered each inner surface of the box with baking paper. This will be important later when we retrieve the block from the form. Wood is a porous material and molten plastic is very sticky, so don't touch them.

Step 3: How to cut the bottles

First of all, HDPE, what is it? How can you tell it apart from all other types of plastic?

HDPE - high density polyethylene. It is a fairly common material used specifically for the production of plastic bottles and corrosion-resistant piping.

As you can see in picture # 1, it is easy to distinguish it from other types of plastic thanks to the number “2” as the resin identification code.

After removing the labels and washing the bottles, we need to cut them into small pieces. Less is better as it takes less time to melt. Use a knife or sturdy scissors.

I usually start with the knife, cut off the neck (photo # 2), which is the harder part, then cut off the base and finally the handle.

Then you can use scissors to make smaller pieces out of larger pieces (photo # 4).

Step 4: melting

Each type of plastic has a different melting point.

Dave Hackens has done a great job with each type to customize the correct melting point ().

I found out that in my oven, HDPE usually melts at around 180 ° C.

While the oven is heating, place a piece of baking paper on a baking sheet and place the pieces of plastic on top of it. Finally, place the baking sheet in the oven and check it every 10 minutes.

Step 5: marble effect

The first paint I'll show you is my favorite: the marble effect.

After 10/15 minutes, if you see the plastic looking sticky, you can remove it from the oven. Put on heat-resistant gloves and roll the plastic (Photo # 2/3).

Act quickly (the plastic cools down), but keep in mind that it is very hot and sticky.

Once you have something like what you can see in photo # 4, you can put it back in the oven.

WARNING: Use gloves! If plastic gets on your skin, immediately rinse the affected area with cold water to relieve pain.

Step 6: fix the shape

After 10 minutes, remove the plastic from the oven and place it in the mold. Clamp it as tightly as you can, and every 5 minutes, tighten the clamps harder. HDPE shrinks as it cools, so you must tighten the clamps frequently to get a flat block.

Step 7: marble block

This is the result after 2 hours of refrigeration.

As you can see from the photo, thanks to the torsion-rotational motion technique that we used, we got a wonderful marble effect. I really like this method because you can see all the colors used.

Step 8: camouflage effect

Here's another coloring. I call it the camouflage effect.

It is easier and safer than the marble effect because there is no need to touch the plastic with your hands. As in Step 5, after 10/15 minutes, if you see the plastic looking sticky, you can remove it from the oven.

This time we will be using the folding technique. Very carefully (and always use gloves), lift the baking paper on one side and fold the plastic over you (photo # 2).

Repeat on the other side and place back in the oven.

Step 9: fix the shape

After 10 minutes of melting, take the plastic out of the oven, fold it one last time in something like an egg roll (photo # 1) and place it in the mold.

As in step 6, pinch it as hard as you can and return every 5 minutes to tighten the clamps. Then leave it to cool for a couple of hours.

Step 10: camouflage block

Here is the result. Looks really like camouflage.

You can cut the parts and hone each of them by hand, but this technique is very imperfect: it takes a lot of effort, and it is impossible to get two absolutely identical products. Therefore, in this material you will learn how to carry out plastic molding at home.

What we may need

We do not need any special tools or materials for our hand-made plastic molding. We can make a template model, a kind of matrix, from almost anything - from metal, cardboard or wood. But regardless of which option you choose, in any case it is necessary to soak it with a special solution before starting work. This is especially true of wood and paper, because they actively absorb moisture and to prevent this process, we need to fill the pores, preferably with liquid wax.

Silicone.

If we settled on this option, then we should buy it with the lowest viscosity - this will contribute to better streamlining of the part. Of course, the results will be more accurate. There is a great variety of its varieties on the modern market, and it makes no sense to compare them with each other: we have neither the time nor the opportunity for this. We can only say with confidence that a car sealant, preferably red, is ideal for coating. It will be much easier to pour plastic at home with it.

Determining the casting material

In all fairness, there are even more casting materials than silicone grades. Among them there are liquid plastic, and ordinary gypsum mixed with PVA glue, and even polyester resin. Substances for cold welding, low-melting metals, and so on are somewhat less popular. But in our case, we will be based on some other characteristics of casting substances:

• The term of their work.
• Viscosity.

Regarding the first point, it denotes the time during which we can carry out manipulations with the material that has not yet hardened. Of course, if the manufacture of plastic products takes place in a factory, then two minutes will be more than enough. Well, we, who do this at home, need at least five minutes. And if it so happened that you could not get the suitable materials, then they can be completely replaced with a simple epoxy resin. Where to find her? In car dealerships or in stores for fans of aeromodelling. It is also common in conventional hardware stores.

Making a split shape

This one is ideal for pouring plastic with your own hands, because you can pour unusual types of resins into it. A little trick of this technique is that at the preliminary stage, the entire surface of the model must be treated with silicone, and then, after the material has completely hardened, the matrix can be cut off. After that, we extract its "insides", which will be useful to us for further casting. In order for us to fit the shape, we need to apply a three-millimeter layer of sealant, after which we just wait for the material to harden - it usually takes two hours. In this case, it is desirable to apply it with a brush. When applying the first layer, we must try to fill all the irregularities or voids with the material, so that air bubbles do not subsequently form.

How the casting process works

First step.

We take a casting mold and clean it thoroughly - it must be dry and clean. All remnants of the material remaining after the preliminary procedures must be removed.

Second step.

If the need arises, we can slightly change the color of our composition: for this you just need to add one drop of paint to it, but in no case water (liquid plastics have a personal dislike for them).

Third step.

There is no need to degass our casting mix. This can be explained by the fact that the molding of plastics at home initially provides for the relative short duration of its "life". At the same time, in order to extract air bubbles from small-sized products, you just need to remove them with your own hands after pouring.

Fourth step.

Mix all the necessary components thoroughly and pour it into the template mold slowly, with a thin stream. This should be done until the mixture fills the entire volume and some more of the casting channel. And soon, when the degassing procedure takes place, the volume of this material will significantly decrease and become what we need.

And the last tip: in order for the quality of the model to be high, you need to cool the template gradually, slowly. So, follow all the instructions and you will succeed!

Making products by casting, taking into account modern materials, has become quite affordable, quite simple and inexpensive. Consider using polyurethane for pouring and silicone to create the mold.

It will take

For work, we will use quite affordable and inexpensive materials and products:

• silicone "ELASTOLUX-M" for making molds;
• silicone "ELASTOFORM" for the manufacture of the substrate;
• a separator based on kerosene or petroleum jelly;
• oppression for a form with a total weight of 1 kg;
• molding polyurethane "UNIKAST 9" (base, part A);
• hardener (part B);
• precision balances;
• plastic cup.

The technology of casting polyurethane products into silicone molds

First of all, you need to print a master model with a gating system on a 3D printer. Or take a finished part that needs to be repeated, glue toothpicks as sprues. It will be needed to make a reusable silicone mold.

We use silicone for it, which is highly elastic and strong enough. For a substrate-base with a thickness of 10-15 mm, a less expensive two-component silicone of the ELASTOFORM type is suitable.

Made by silicone mold.

How the casting process works

We put the silicone mold on the substrate. If it will be used repeatedly, then periodically grease it with a separator based on kerosene or petroleum jelly.

Press down the silicone mold from above with a dispersed load (oppression) weighing up to one kilogram. To fill the casting material flowed accurately and quickly, we perform a paper funnel. After that, we can assume that the mold is prepared for casting.

For pouring we take the cheapest injection molding polyurethane "UNIKAST 9" (part A) and hardener (part B), which we mix in a ratio of 1: 0.6.

A high-quality mixing requires a precision balance and a plastic cup. You can add any color to the base, which is sold separately. For 1 kg of polyurethane, 90-100 drops of dye are needed.

Pour 22 grams of liquid polyurethane and 13.2 grams of hardener into a glass on a scale and stir thoroughly for 30 seconds, no more, since it will already begin to harden. While stirring, we will feel that the glass is heating up, which means the polymerization process has begun. The mixture is ready for pouring.
Fill the mix without interruption until liquid polyurethane comes out of the sprues. The initial hardening will take about two minutes, and the full hardening will take 10-15 minutes, but it is better to hold the pouring in the mold for 20-30 minutes.

After half an hour, we begin to remove the polyurethane casting from the silicone mold.

First we break off the paper funnel with the excess polyurethane frozen in it, then the excess protruding from the sprues, together with the "legs". This will make it easier for us to remove the molded product from the mold.

In addition, the silicone mold is very flexible, which also makes it easy to remove the casting from it without any difficulty.

It remains to lightly process the holes, break off or cut the sprues and drill the holes with a drill. After that, the cast product practically does not differ from the master mold.

Comparison of casting method and 3D printing

Casting is fast compared to 3D printing. It will take 4.0-4.5 hours to print such a box on a 3D printer. In this case, the 3D model often turns out to be defective and everything must be started from the beginning. The casting process takes a maximum of 30 minutes. The next point is cheapness. Casting is more than 3 times cheaper than 3D printing.

This video lesson from the OchumeletsTV channel on how to mold plastic at home. Molten plastic is not completely liquid. It is a thick mass, so it is poured under pressure. To create it, the master made a metal syringe. Used a plumbing squeegee. Piston. Guide.

Solid mold. Made of epoxy resin. Make a helical wing. I used polypropylene as a raw material. From an old box. At home, it is better to pour polypropylene and polyethylene, since these plastics are non-toxic.

When heated, they do not emit harmful products. Fill small pieces into a syringe. We put it in the oven at 220-240 degrees. The detail is simple, so the plastic should not be overheated. While the plastic is warming up, we will assemble the mold.

First, fix the bolt to the desired distance. It is enough to pull with your hands, you do not need a wrench. The pressure is not that high. To prevent the bolts from going back and forth, we use a lid. Chipboard material. Install the cover and tighten with nuts. We will pour plastic into the hole.

30 minutes passed. We put on special gloves, we take out the syringe. We wind it up quickly. Press to extrude the plastic. Installed on top of the mold. We press. We stand for a certain time. It must be kept under pressure to minimize shrinkage.
Let's disassemble the shape and see what kind of product it turned out.

It can be seen that everything has spilled. We extract. The detail has turned out. The bolt is well filled, it sits firmly. The tabs can be trimmed. So you can do the casting of polypropylene, etc. at home. This is the most primitive handicraft method. So that you can quickly and easily cast the product.

Mold making

Next, watch a video on how to make a mold to cast plastic.

Polypropylene injection molding machine

The author of the OumeletsTV channel showed a self-made machine for the home. It's electric. The piston is manual. Thermostat for precise temperature control. The video shows his tests. For these purposes, he will cast nylon or polyamide. There is one more name - nylon. Nylon is commonly used for chair crosspieces. Just this one was found by the master, he crumbled it. Before use, the mug must be dried at a temperature of up to 100 degrees. This should be done within 2-4 hours.

Load the pellets into the machine. Let's set it to 250 degrees. This is the optimum temperature for casting polyamide. Let's wait until the required degrees are typed. Then we will install the piston. The machine has reached the optimum mode, the indicator light is on. Now you need to wait 5 minutes for the plastic to completely warm up from the inside.

The polyamide is hot. We put it on the mold. We press in. We make an exposure under pressure. It can be seen that he is overwhelmed. Let it cool down a bit. Now we disassemble the mold. Studied a plastic product. As you can see, there is no shrinkage.

Home Plastic Injection Machine

Below is a video explaining how to make a plastic injection molding machine. What is required for this at home artisanal conditions? Piston rod. Three-quarter pipe as a cylinder. Half-inch 3/4 pipe adapter. Fitting cut for convenience. Metallic gasket with mica for insulation. Thermostat. It regulates the temperature up to 350 degrees. Ten for 600 watts. Two nuts and a box for attaching the thermostat. We put on the adapter. We tighten the washer.
So that the nichrome does not slide down.

We begin to assemble the control unit. Then we attach the thermocouple from the thermostat to the cylinder body. The author did not show how he would collect all this, but presented a diagram. The photo shows the device assembled.

We attach the control unit to the syringe. Tighten with nuts. Thermocouple length is sufficient. Now you need to secure. Mica to prevent thermocouple from slipping through ceramic insulators. For rewinding, not just a thread is used, but silica. It is heat-resistant, that is, it does not burn, does not melt. An asbestos cord can be used. But since it was not available from the master, I had to buy silica.

We wrap the heating element. Next, you can use mineral wool or asbestos cloth. Necessary to avoid heat loss. The master used mineral wool from an old oven. Fixed with an aluminum wire. The assembly is complete. Pressure tests can be carried out.

We set the thermostat to 100 degrees. Let's see how the machine will work in this mode at home.