How to insulate a metal garage - materials for external and internal thermal insulation. Insulation of an unheated metal garage How to insulate an iron garage

A typical metal garage can serve many useful functions. For the winter, a caring car enthusiast leaves his car in it, someone else stores food here, and someone equips the space for a special workshop. All this can be done provided that the garage must be insulated.

The optimum temperature for such a room is at least -5 ° C. At lower values, condensation will begin to form on the surface of the vehicle, leading to rust. It will be impossible to work in a box because of the cold, and it will become impractical to store vegetables, they will simply start to rot in the first thaw. In order to keep warm inside the room, it is necessary to select and install a heater correctly.

Heaters

Using traditional metal garage building materials can significantly increase the room temperature.

For these purposes, use:

Styrofoam. This material belongs to the most common type of insulation. It is convenient to work with polystyrene, it is cheap;
Penoizol. This is the liquid form of the same foam. Penoizol has fire resistance and excellent water resistance. The durability of such a heater is 40 years;

Basalt wool. Such a soft and inexpensive insulation is also called mineral wool. Minvatoy is often used to insulate garages. And this material is among the leaders in terms of the popularity of its application.
Polyurethane foam. The durability of this building material is 50 years;

The above types practically do not differ in quality, a reasonable price determines the demand for all these products.

Having decided on the type of insulation for arranging thermal insulation from the inside of the box, you can proceed to the preparatory stage.

Required tools and building materials

It is better to insulate the garage in summer or spring. Sometimes the situation forces you to carry out work in cold weather, at low temperatures. In this case, it is necessary to insulate the garage quickly and reliably.

You need to prepare the tools in advance in order to use the allotted time productively:

electric drill;
building level;
steel profile;
welding machine;
screwdriver;

self-tapping screws;
furniture stapler with staples;
roulette;
wooden bars for installing lathing crossbars;
scissors for working with metal;
protective gloves, special mask.

Training

When dealing with internal cladding of metal structures, first of all, you should take care of anti-corrosion. If there is rust on the surface of the walls, it should be removed with a special metal brush. If necessary, carry out latochny repair of individual areas. Then the surface is treated with an anti-corrosion solution.

To ensure optimal indoor conditions, you must also create a ventilation system. It will be needed for circulation: the system will take away the exhaust air, replacing it with fresh air. Otherwise, accumulated heavy vapors and gases can cause condensation. Condensation, on the other hand, negatively affects the condition of the supporting structure of the garage, the car and the stored products.

After applying the anti-corrosion solution, it usually takes several days for it to dry completely. After they begin to engage in insulation of the box from the inside. You can do this work yourself. According to the rules, for a start, the walls are insulated, then the roof, the gate, and only then, if necessary, they strengthen the protection of the floor.

Wall insulation

Consider the procedure for warming on the example of using a material such as basalt wool.

This type of material has decent characteristics:

durability;
preservation of qualities even at high humidity;
low thermal conductivity;
mold resistance;
convenience of working with insulation;
environmental friendliness;
refractoriness.

The sequence of sheathing the walls of the garage with mineral insulation:

First you need to determine the location of the crate. The amount of material used will depend on the squaring of the sheathed surface. The steel profile is excellent for the construction of the frame. The use of wood in this case can lead to rapid destruction under the influence of moisture. In addition, the wooden structure can deform when wet.
Start building vertical guides. The gap between the structures should be about 1-2 cm, that is, less than the width of the insulation itself. So the material will completely unfold and take up the space completely. To strengthen the system, they put transverse horizontally every meter, here you can use wooden beams.

The already mounted lathing begins to be surrounded by a membrane; another type of waterproofing material can be used. The joints that appear should be glued with tape, the film is attached to staples, for this you can use a stapler.
You need to lay the insulation inside the resulting sheathing. Begin laying from the bottom. In this case, no crevices should remain.
A vapor barrier material is applied to the insulation; you can use a plastic wrap or roofing material.
At the end, the crate is sheathed. The cladding is performed with non-combustible material, for example, drywall or steel siding is used.

It should be borne in mind that when sheathing the box, the space in the room narrows. Accordingly, it is better to choose not very bulky insulation.

Sheathing the garage with foam, you should take into account the peculiarity of the material. Such insulation will not expand like cotton wool, so it is better to make the gap between the guides a little smaller, for example, by 1-2 cm. It is better to create the crate in separate blocks, the dimensions of each of them should exactly repeat the dimensions of the foam sheets. If there are defects on the walls, then it is better to level the surface before insulation. It is recommended to use an L-shaped profile in the work. Insulation sheets are attached with glue

Roof insulation

Usually, the roof or ceiling of the garage is presented in the form of a shed structure. This roof design is considered a budget and simple option. The basis for it is the rafters supported by the Mauerlat.

At the stage of its construction

Now let's continue our work. The bars of the Mauerlat are laid over the walls of the box, securing with anchor bolts. It is better to carry out thermal insulation of the ceiling of an iron garage at the stage of its construction. In this case, the work will take less effort and time.

The rafter system is assembled from wooden beams. The section of each bar is 15x15 cm.The rafters are installed at an even distance, the gap reaches - 60 cm.The main reference point in this case is the width of the insulation plates, according to the standard, this size reaches 61 cm. ...

The next step will be the arrangement of the vapor barrier layer. For this, you can purchase special membranes that are excellent for these purposes. They are attached to the rafters with staples, buttons. The existing joints are glued with tape. From the inside of the building, the vapor barrier is sheathed with the selected material. Here you can use fiberboard or lining. This is an individual solution for every garage owner.

The cladding is attached very carefully, it is necessary to monitor the tightness of the vapor barrier. Damage or defects that appear during operation must be repaired immediately. To do this, you can use a sealant or tape.

Insulation is placed between the rafters. It is better to choose mineral wool for such work. Usually, it is considered sufficient to use insulation with a thickness of 15 cm. The thermal insulation layer can be increased if necessary.

Then they carry out the standard technology for arranging the roof. First, the crate is made. The installation procedure depends on the characteristics of the roofing used. After that, waterproofing is laid on the crate and the work is completed by laying the finishing material.

Thermal insulation after the construction of the garage

The work on arranging the thermal insulation of the ceiling, carried out after the construction of the garage, is slightly different from the process of insulating the roof during the construction of the box. In this case, the thermal insulation is laid between the rafters, a vapor barrier film is laid on top, and at the end the structure is sheathed with any suitable material.

Certain inconveniences may arise in the process of fixing thermal insulation boards. To eliminate the inconvenience, it is enough to simply fix the insulation in order to avoid the fall of the material before the finishing sheathing begins. It is necessary to fix strips of waterproofing, vapor barrier material to the slings so that they prevent the insulation from falling.

It is considered inconvenient to work with rigid materials, therefore, it is better to sheathe the ceiling of the garage with foam. At the same time, there should be no holes outside and inside on the roof surface. If there are holes in the ceiling, they must be removed by welding. Foam at the time of insulation is placed between the vapor barrier and waterproofing material.

Entrance trim

If cold air enters through the slots in the garage entrance gates, there is no benefit from insulating the inner walls. Laying hard insulation such as expanded polystyrene will help to solve this problem. First, the gates are insulated, and then the front door.

Sequencing:

The metal surface of the gate is treated with protective mastic. Such material as expanded polystyrene is not afraid of the negative effects of moisture. Only when opening doors, snow or raindrops can sometimes penetrate into the crevice, finding themselves between the insulation and the metal sheet. This should not be allowed.

The metal garage is very freezing in winter. As a result, the car is difficult to start, and repair work is completely impossible due to the low temperature in the room. There are different ways to insulate a metal garage, but not all known materials are suitable for this. When choosing a heater, it is important to consider what kind of load the installation will give on the garage structure, as well as how many centimeters the internal area will decrease.

Insulation types

The process of insulating a garage depends on the selected thermal insulation material. Somewhere installation involves additional costs for lathing and finishing, in some cases, the insulation is simply applied to the walls. Since the garage is iron, it heats up in the sun and collects condensation well. Therefore, the materials should be chosen the most moisture resistant.

For example, mineral wool is not suitable in this case. It will start to rot, and you will have to change the insulation pretty soon.

For an iron garage, the following materials are perfect as insulation:

extruded polystyrene foam boards, polystyrene or foam insulation;
polyurethane foam;
heat insulating paint (for example, "Astratek").

Styrofoam it is durable, resistant to moisture, it is cheap to insulate it, but it has a high flammability. Penoplex is a variety of it. It is twice as expensive, but the slabs are thinner if the thickness of the walls is important, and also does not require additional waterproofing. You can even insulate the floor with Penoplex plates, making a concrete screed right on it.

Penoizol essentially the same penoplex, only in a cylinder. It is twice as expensive and requires special equipment. It is applied to walls in the form of foam, like polyurethane foam. Polyurethane foam (PPU) is more expensive, but there are no seams. Environmentally friendly, non-flammable.

Disadvantages include the need for foam spray equipment and vulnerability to sunlight.

Heat insulating paints do not require additional wall finishing, since they are at the same time a topcoat. They are frost-resistant, not afraid of moisture, quickly applied. A 1 mm layer of paint can replace 5 cm of mineral wool. To create the required thermal insulation, it is enough to apply two layers. Such material is very expensive, but it does not take up the internal usable space.

It is necessary to insulate not only the walls and ceiling, but also the floor. It is through it that 20% of the heat leaves.

The very insulation of iron garages is carried out exclusively from the inside.

Penoplex and polystyrene

Before insulation, the surface must be prepared. Remove peeling paint and rust. It is recommended to paint walls and ceilings to protect against corrosion. The color and choice of paint is not important, it will still not be visible under the skin. Therefore, you can save money and buy something inexpensive. If the garage is made of a galvanized profile, then nothing needs to be done.

If the region has frosty winters, then the thickness of the foam must be at least 10 cm, the foam - 6-7 cm. A thinner layer will not provide the required thermal insulation. The material is glued to walls and ceilings with construction glue, for example, liquid nails. Can also be glued to polyurethane foam. Within an hour, it will expand, so the plates should be periodically pressed against the walls. All cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam. To increase the thermal insulation properties, foil can be glued to the plates.

If the foam is two layers, then one of them can be replaced with double-sided foil-coated isolon.

Next, you need to make a crate. The existing metal frame of the garage can be used as a frame. The lathing is made of wood in increments of 25-30 cm. You can use a galvanized profile, but then it will be more expensive. In no case should the insulation stick out behind the crate. As a finish, you can use lining, plywood, moisture-resistant drywall, OSB panels or plastic siding. The gates and doors are insulated in the same way as the walls.

Polyurethane foam

The surface of the walls of the garage must also be prepared, special attention to oil stains - they should not be. The air temperature in the garage must be at least 10 degrees Celsius. Both the walls and the ceiling are insulated. Polyurethane foam is sprayed using special equipment under pressure, somewhat reminiscent of the dyeing process. The components are mixed and at the exit give the very reaction due to which the foam is formed. The material hardens very quickly. The difference between polyurethane foam and penoplex is that it gives additional rigidity to the structure, no glue is required. The thickness of the formed foam should be 3-4 cm. For comparison, this replaces 5 cm of mineral wool.

Another advantage of polyurethane foam is that it does not require a crate. You can cover the top with paint or plaster. The high cost of polyurethane foam is offset by savings on glue, lathing and facing material, not to mention the thickness of the walls and the load on the structure.

It is impossible to leave polyurethane foam without lining, since the sun's rays have a destructive effect on it.

Astratek paints

Astarek paint is a mastic that can be applied with a brush or by spraying. After drying, an elastic coating forms. The paint simultaneously acts as a heater, is used for waterproofing, and has anti-corrosion properties.

A great option for shell garages. For example, it is rather difficult to insulate corrugated material with plates; an additional frame is required. All this will take even more of the usable building area. The process for applying thermal insulation paint is the same as for conventional paint. The surface needs to be prepared. Apply in a layer of 1 mm, the second layer only after the previous one has completely dried. Two layers for insulation are quite enough. The paint can be applied to walls, ceilings and gates. It does not put any additional stress on the structure of the building.

Material consumption per 1 sq. m is 0.5 liters of paint. Because of its cost, the total cost of insulating the garage will be significant. But you can insulate it from the inside with your own hands, without resorting to outside help. All work is carried out quickly, the total volume of space does not decrease. Savings on other building materials such as no glue, lathing and cladding. The paint itself is the topcoat.

She is not afraid of moisture, the walls can be washed, and shelves can be attached. Astratek paint can be used to insulate a garage not only from the inside, but also from the outside, which other types of insulation cannot boast of.

Basement insulation

Some garages have a basement, cellar or viewing pit. It will be correct to insulate them too. Due to the limited area, it is inconvenient to use mineral wool or foam. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to such materials that require the construction of additional structures. For example, walls can be insulated with polyurethane foam and paint "Astratek". These materials do not require additional waterproofing, which is very important in such premises. But the PUF will need to be painted.

Another option is warm plaster. This is expanded vermiculite or expanded polystyrene granules. This insulation is at the same time a finishing coating, but the walls must be pre-plastered. Expanded clay can be poured onto the floor with a fraction of 5 to 20 mm. The larger version will shrink. The thickness of the coating should be about 10 cm.

You can also fill the floor with rubble (10 cm), sand on top (soft layer) and pour bitumen on top.

Floor insulation

If the floor is earthen, then it can also be insulated. To do this, it is necessary to remove the top layer of soil by 15 cm. Then add a layer of sand or expanded clay. This is necessary for drainage, so that moisture does not accumulate under the insulation, at the same time it will allow to level the surface.

Next, foam plates are laid. Sufficient thickness is 5 cm. No additional waterproofing is required for this material. Next, sand is poured onto the insulation with a thickness of 3-4 cm. On top of the structure, it is necessary to mount a frame made of reinforcement in two layers of 1 cm. It is necessary for the screed. Cover with cement mortar and allow to dry.

Instead of a screed, you can put a tongue-and-groove board. To do this, wooden logs are laid on the drainage with a step of 30–40 cm, between them is expanded polystyrene or polystyrene. All cracks must be sealed with foam. Attach boards from above to the logs. You can put linoleum as a topcoat. It is better to start any insulation of the garage from the floor.

Otherwise, it will be problematic and inconvenient to do all the work without damaging the wall decoration.

It is believed that if the temperature inside the garage does not drop below + 3C, then the car engine can be started, as they say, "with a half turn." Therefore, the owners today pay special attention to the insulation of metal garages. Moreover, there are thermal insulation materials on the market today, with the help of which the insulation process is carried out simply, quickly, plus the costs for this event are not very large. Therefore, in the article we will consider all methods of insulating garages built from a metal profile sheathed with sheet iron or corrugated board.

Source gallery.ykt.ru

Which side to insulate the garage

It is clear that there are two sides of the walls: external and internal. It is optimal, so as not to reduce the internal space of the garage, to insulate the building from the outside. This option can only be used if the garage is a detached building. That is, you can approach it from any side and carry out thermal insulation processes.

External insulation is a fairly large list of materials and technologies. That is, there are no restrictions in this regard. But each method requires a special approach, especially in terms of attaching insulation. Therefore, one of the easiest ways to insulate a garage is to brick it. Of course, half a brick - protection is not the most reliable, but the temperature inside the building will be clearly higher than outside.

The second way, in which a brick is used, is to pre-insulate the walls of the garage structure, and then revet the insulated surfaces with brickwork. And here you can use any heat-insulating materials with low moisture absorption. For example, polystyrene foam boards. They are simply glued to the metal walls of the garage structure using a special adhesive, which is sold in spray cans. And already a brick cladding is carried out on top.

Source domovita.by

This option for thermal insulation of metal walls requires additional costs for the construction of a small base for brickwork. Usually this is a small foundation slightly wider than the width of the brick. It can be superficial or shallow.

In principle, in exactly the same way, you can insulate a metal garage using other finishing materials. For example, siding. True, a frame will have to be built under it, which must be somehow attached to the metal sheets of the garage structure. The simplest option is for self-tapping screws, under which through holes with a diameter slightly less than the diameter of the fasteners will have to be made in the walls. Note that assembling the frame is a rather laborious operation, which will take a lot of time.

It is possible to fasten the lathing using a wire, for which it is necessary to drill two holes on each side of the frame element. The two ends of the wire are pushed into the holes from the inside of the garage, and a twist is made on the crate, thus pressing the wooden block to the metal surface.

It is between the elements of the crate that the heat-insulating material is laid. And siding is mounted on the frame itself. The photo below shows a garage, insulated and sheathed with siding.

Source metgar.ru

Today, the so-called thermal panels are very popular. This is a heater on which the finishing board material is glued. A striking representative of this category is expanded polystyrene panels, on which clinker tiles are glued. It is a versatile finishing material in terms of its installation. That is, it can be installed on the crate, glued to the walls or fixed with self-tapping screws.

In general, with the use of frame insulation technology for garages outside, endless possibilities open up. Because any slab, sheet or lath material can be installed on the crate. That is, the insulation can be closed from the outside with a large number of materials, and not necessarily finishing. For example, you can use corrugated board, lining, OSB boards with subsequent painting, moisture-resistant drywall with decorative plaster and other expensive and not very expensive facing materials.

Source fireswirl.co

I would like to add that scientific and technological progress constantly suggests taking advantage of new products. And thermal insulation materials in this case are no exception. Recently, the so-called heat-insulating paints have appeared on the market, which experts have attributed to the category of "liquid heat insulators". We will not go into details of their production, components and technical characteristics. Just note that the 1 mm thick paint applied to the metal replaces the 50 mm thick mineral wool board.

Apply paint with any painting tool, preferably in two layers. Consumption is 1 liter of material per 1 m² of the treated surface.

Source penoblok-elite.ru

Thermal insulation of a metal garage from the inside

We turn to the insulation of the iron garage from the inside. This type of insulation is used most often. It is easier and cheaper to perform work. For this, mainly two technologies are used, in which two different heat-insulating materials are used: expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam.

On our website you can familiarize yourself with the most popular projects and other small forms - any category and construction technology - from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-rise Country".

Insulation of the garage from the inside with polystyrene foam plates

What is a metal garage. This is a frame structure made of a shaped pipe or steel corner, which is sheathed on the outside with metal sheets or corrugated board. Usually the garage structure is welded, rarely dismountable on bolted joints. And in fact, and in another case, this does not interfere with thermal insulation measures.

The main task of the work manufacturers is to accurately cut the expanded polystyrene plates to the size of the sections formed by the frame structure. Usually, the latter is a vertical rack with a certain installation pitch, in some cases they are connected by transverse elements (one or two). Bottom and top of the racks are connected by an upper and lower strapping. That is, it turns out that the walls of a metal garage are rectangles bounded by frame elements.

Source ar.aviarydecor.com

It is precisely to the size of the rectangles that pieces must be cut out of the expanded polystyrene plates. It is important - it is necessary to cut it so that the slabs fit tightly between the elements of the crate. In this case, the thickness of the insulation is selected according to the thickness of the frame element. For example, if the garage was assembled from a 40x40 mm profile pipe, then, accordingly, the insulation should be of this thickness. And this is just one of the standard parameters of polystyrene foam plates.

Fasten the slab insulation to the metal walls with a special foamed adhesive. It is important here to choose the right type of glue, because there is a wide variety of them on the market. But not all of them can attach materials to metal.

Source planken.guru

Usually, a wall insulated in this way is difficult to sheathe with slab or sheet material. Under the latter, a lathing is required either from wooden bars, or from metal profiles with a thin wall. If a profile pipe with a wall of 2 mm was used for the construction of a metal garage, then, for example, OSB boards or plywood can be attached to it using self-tapping screws for metal. Roofing screws with a hex head are more often used.

And in this usual form, that is, when the insulation plates are simply laid between the elements of the garage frame, they use a finish in the form of plaster, followed by painting. Before applying the plaster mortar, a plaster mesh is mounted on the insulated wall: metal or synthetic.

Video description

We offer you to watch a video showing the technology of thermal insulation of a metal garage with expanded polystyrene plates:

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

Additional wooden frame

This option of insulation and decoration is used if the frame of the garage building is assembled from a steel corner. For this, wooden blocks with a section equal to the side of the corner profile are installed on both sides of the corner elements. Usually this is 40 mm, which means that you will need 40x40 mm bars.

They are attached to the frame structure in different ways, for example:

tied to the corner from two sides at once two bars with wire;

fix each block to the garage wall, that is, to a metal sheet, making holes in it and fixing it with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from the outside.

That is, another frame should appear on the inner wall, only a wooden one. It is the dimensions of the newly formed rectangles that are taken as the basis for cutting polystyrene foam plates. After that, they are also inserted into the gaps between the frame elements and fixed with an adhesive. Sometimes glue is not used if the trimmed pieces of insulation are firmly embedded in the wooden structure of the lathing. They will not fall out, especially since they will be covered with casing.

Now, any finishing lath, slab, sheet material can be installed on a wooden crate using standard technology.

Source 2gis.ru

Roof insulation with expanded polystyrene

A warm metal garage is not only wall insulation. It is imperative to insulate the roof. The roof of a metal garage has either a single or a gable structure. From the inside, the slopes are all the same walls from the frame, sheathed outside with metal sheets or corrugated board. Therefore, the technology of roof insulation is carried out in the same way as for walls. That is, between the frame elements, a heat-insulating material is laid, cut exactly to the dimensions of the space between the sheathing elements.

The only difficulty is the sloping roof plane. The insulation will not hold well on it, so you cannot do without glue here.

There is another option for insulation, when it is not the roof slopes that are thermally insulated, but the ceiling of the room. The latter is formed from boards, which are laid at the ends on the walls of the structure. Or, as another option, the installation of a log, on the lower ends of which plate or sheet materials are installed and fastened with self-tapping screws: OSB, chipboard, plywood and others. Insulation can be laid over the ceiling or along its lower surface by gluing the plates to it.

Source domhitrosti.ru

Insulation of the garage with polyurethane foam

Foamed polyurethane is a heater with the best thermal conductivity. Applied with a thickness of 1 cm, it replaces any other thermal insulation material laid with a thickness of 50-100 mm. In addition, this heat insulator is applied in a monolithic layer without seams.

By itself, it is a foamed mass, consisting of two components, which polymerizes in air and turns into a sufficiently strong coating. Special equipment is required to apply polyurethane foam. The material itself is expensive compared to other analogues. But it is not required to build a frame for it. In addition, the foam insulation is easily attached to the metal surface, which does not even need to be cleaned.

Video description

So that you understand what is at stake, we suggest watching a video that shows the process of thermal insulation of a metal garage with polyurethane foam:

We add that in this way you can insulate the roof of the garage structure and the gate of the building. Plaster fits well on the polyurethane foam layer, if you first install a wooden crate, then finishing with slab or sheet materials will not be a problem either.

Conclusion on the topic

So, we talked about the methods of insulating garages assembled from metal profiles. It should be noted that many owners are following the path of saving money. And it should be noted that this path can lead to a high quality of the final result. The main thing here is to carry out all the processes correctly with the exact choice of insulation. Special relation to the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. If you choose it correctly, then you can talk about the guaranteed high quality of the work done.

# 1. Styrofoam
No. 2. Mineral wool
No. 3. "Warm" plaster
No. 4. Heat insulating paint
No. 5. Reflective insulation

Our climate is different in that for 4-6 months a low temperature reigns, which is not only not very comfortable for humans, but also harmful to cars, our faithful assistants in the matter of movement. Frost and precipitation in winter can harm a car quite badly, and many try to leave the car in the garage as often as possible, thereby protecting it from negative effects. But if the garage is not insulated, then even there the "iron horse" will not be completely protected from the external environment, because thin walls almost do not prevent the penetration of cold masses into the interior of the room. In order for the car to remain safe in any weather, you need to take care of the insulation of the garage for it in advance.

It should be noted right away that it is also unnecessary to overdo it with insulation and create room temperature in the garage, unless, of course, you plan not to go outside during the winter.

Otherwise, a strong temperature contrast can have an extremely negative effect on the car body, causing the onset of corrosion. Also, do not forget about ventilation, so that excess moisture goes out into the street along with harmful gases.

The requirements for the thermal insulation of the garage are not as strict as for the insulation of residential premises. And if for the latter, insulation from the inside is extremely undesirable, then in the case of a garage it is no less effective and often becomes the only possible option. So, if the structure is located close to others, then it will not work to insulate it from the outside. Moreover, some types of garages require double insulation, for example, metal ones. The only drawback of insulation from the inside is that the area can be reduced, but in order to negate such a "side effect", you need to select a heat insulator that will cope with its task at a minimum thickness. So, what materials are suitable for insulating a garage from the inside?

# 1. Styrofoam

Polyfoam is the most popular option in this sense, all work with it can be easily done independently, which is why it has enjoyed such success for several decades in a row. The advantages of this material are weight.

If we add durability and low cost to all this, then we get an ideal material for insulation at all. True, and not without flaws: Styrofoam is a flammable material, so it is better to choose those products that are impregnated with a fire retardant. Yes, and under the influence of sunlight, the foam is gradually able to turn yellow, but inside the garage a layer of such insulation will last a long time.

Styrofoam can be of several types, but it is the most popular when insulating garages expanded polystyrene... Depending on the specifics of production, it can be pressed, non-pressed or extruded. Taking into account the ability of this material to burn, it is better to stop your choice on a material of the PSB-S type, which includes a fire retardant. Expanded polystyrene has good heat and sound insulation, it is easy to process, not susceptible to fungal infection. There is a myth that it is unhealthy as it supposedly contains residual styrene. There is some truth in this statement, but in order to protect yourself, it is better to buy material from trusted manufacturers who follow the manufacturing technology and supply safe products. Also pay attention to the fact that decent results in insulation can be achieved if the insulation is mounted not only on the walls, but also on the gate and ceiling.

The second material in this group is penoizol often referred to as liquid foam. It is made in the same place where it will be used, and the resulting foam quickly hardens, filling all the cracks. This is one of the most reliable methods of insulation, which will create an excellent barrier to cold, because the thermal conductivity of this substance is quite low. Moreover, the material is durable, and manufacturers claim that it will serve faithfully for at least 40 years, although scientists call the figure 100 years or more. The material does not support combustion, but this method of thermal insulation cannot be called the most budgetary, since you will need special equipment and, as a rule, the help of professionals. And the presence on the market of dishonest manufacturers offering not the highest quality products scares away many.

Another liquid insulation - polyurethane foam, which is applied to the walls in the form of foam, gradually solidifies, forming a monolithic layer of thermal insulation. It does not make the walls of the garage heavier, as it mostly consists of air, adheres well to any surfaces, and does not take away the useful area of the garage. The material does not support combustion, but it can smolder if exposed to very high temperatures continuously. The only drawback is the need for special equipment and specialists for quality work.

No. 2. Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a good insulation that boasts a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, breathability, health safety, and also non-combustibility. Basalt wool, which is commonly called mineral wool, has excellent sound absorption performance. For internal insulation, mats with a density of not more than 180 kg / m3 are used.

Flaws this kind of insulation is also present. So, mineral wool is very afraid of moisture, so it must be protected with a layer of vapor barrier. Otherwise, moisture collected from the environment will cause a loss of thermal insulation properties. The cost of mineral wool is slightly more than that of foam, but still quite affordable. True, this method of insulation is suitable for those who have a sufficiently spacious garage, because for mineral wool it is necessary to build a frame, in the cells of which the insulation itself is mounted with a thick layer (10 cm or more).

Separately, it should be noted insulation glass wool- This is one of the varieties of mineral wool. Since it is made from molten glass waste or rocks saturated with silicon, needle-like particles are present in the structure, which represent the main danger during operation. When insulating a garage with such material, all personal safety requirements should be strictly observed so that particles of the material do not get into the skin, eyes or respiratory system. Glass wool is very afraid of water, and if it gets a little wet during installation, then the material can simply be thrown away, since all the thermal insulation properties are already lost anyway. And although the price for it is much lower than for stone wool, it is not very popular among those who want to insulate the garage from the inside, since its installation is complicated.

No. 3. "Warm" plaster

Warm plaster is a relatively new type of insulation that looks like ordinary plaster, but instead of sand, it includes materials with low thermal conductivity: vermiculite, expanded polystyrene, sawdust, expanded clay, pumice etc.

my became popular plaster with expanded polystyrene granules, since it has universal properties, it can be used both inside and outside, it has the best indicators of thermal insulation. Sawdust-based plasters are also common, which also contain components such as paper, clay and sand. This composition is just suitable for internal insulation, but you should be prepared for the fact that such a plaster dries for a long time, and good ventilation will be needed to speed up the process. Vermiculite-based compounds can also be used to insulate the garage from the inside.

This option is different a lot of advantages... So, the walls may not be leveled in advance and not prepared in any way, "warm" plaster has excellent adhesion to wood, metal and stone, it does not require the use of reinforcing meshes (except for some difficult cases).

Besides, it is very simple and easy to apply and you can do without outside help, having managed as soon as possible. But with all this, the material is clearly inferior to traditional insulation, and it is best used in combination with other thermal insulation materials. Applying a thick layer is not an option, since if it is more than 5 cm thick, there is a risk that the plaster will begin to crack and flake off under its own weight.

No. 4. Heat insulating paint

Another modern material that amazes not only with its ease of use, but also with its effectiveness. Here are just a few striking examples: a layer of paint equal to 1 mm is equivalent to a layer of 50 mm mineral wool, and a layer of paint applied according to the instructions is like a wall of 1.5 bricks. The unique properties of this insulation are based on features of the structure and principle of action... All insulation materials known to us work on the principle of a barrier, preventing heat from leaving the space. Heat-insulating paint becomes not only an obstacle to the penetration of infrared rays outside, but also their reflector, as a result of which it is much more difficult for heat to leave the confines of such a room. A similar effect was made possible due to the presence of a vacuum inside, which prevents the passage of infrared rays.

Advantages of insulating paints can be listed for a long time. They have excellent adhesion to most building materials, have good thermal insulation performance, are not afraid of moisture, are vapor-permeable, and protect metal from corrosion. A layer of such insulation has a very low weight, therefore it does not make the structure heavier, and the application process itself is as simple as possible and does not differ much from the use of conventional paints. The list of advantages is supplemented by resistance to ultraviolet radiation, ease of restoration of damaged coating, resistance to high temperatures (the paint does not burn, but only charred at 260 0 C or unfolds at 800 0 C), environmental friendliness. But such minus, as a rather high cost of paint, its high consumption, and not always it can be used as an independent insulation, but nevertheless, this option is used more and more often to insulate a garage.

No. 5. Reflective insulation

Reflective insulation is the newest insulation, which is called today one of the most effective. Moreover, it is optimally suited for insulating the garage from the inside, as it has a small thickness, which means that it does not take up a lot of usable area. The material itself consists of a layer of heat insulator covered with a metallized film, and that is why this type of thermal insulation is called foil.

Different materials can be used as an insulating layer: polyethylene foam, expanded polystyrene, mineral wool or basalt insulation. For internal thermal insulation of the garage as base layer polyethylene foam and mineral wool are optimal, and the insulation itself can be in the form of plates or rolls. The main layer can have a thickness of 2-50 mm, and on top of it is applied aluminum foil very thin layer by heat welding. A metallized film made of polypropylene can also be used, it is possible that an additional layer of fiberglass is present. The foil layer can be either one-sided or double-sided.

How does this type of thermal insulation work? and why is it considered so effective? So, the foil reflects the main part of the heat waves, preventing them from leaving the room. Those IR rays that did pass through the foil are already held by a layer of insulation, reducing heat loss to a minimum. As a result, we get a material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, good noise insulation, low weight, fire resistance and resistance to moisture. Plus, it's environmentally friendly and easy to fit. Minuses, due to the short duration of the use of the material, not all are yet known, but such insulation lends itself to corrosion.

remstroiblog.ru

Insulation of an unheated metal garage

Periodic freezing and thawing of the car leads to rapid wear of the iron parts of the car. To prevent this, content in warmer and dryness. In winter, the most acceptable conditions for keeping the car is the temperature plus 5 or higher.

However, in a metal garage, it is almost impossible to achieve this without using a heater.

That is why such a house for a garage is a must. insulate... If you do not carry out insulation, then in winter the temperature inside the garage will be about minus 20.

Leaving the garage, you will have to warm up the engine for at least 5 minutes.

The presence of insulation will also help protect the interior from excessive overheating in the summer heat.

Since this is also unpleasant, because the car overheats, and to be in it until ventilation is carried out, impossible.

So, insulate the garage is needed in such a way that in winter the temperature does not drop below 4-5 degrees, and in summer it does not rise above 25-28.

Important points

How to insulate an iron garage from the inside?

Material covers all surface garage including floor.
When laying roll or sheet materials, special attention should be paid joints... To prevent cold from penetrating into the cracks, you need to overlap the sheets and connect them with aluminum tape.
Pay particular attention to laying the material in corners and locations joints garage designs.
Particular attention should be paid to the gate. It would be ideal to build a small door in them so that the gate does not fully open every time.
Insulating material must be installed close to the metal parts of the garage, otherwise it will accumulate in the air spaces condensate... The resulting moisture will accelerate corrosive processes, and the structure will become unusable in a very short time. That is why it is recommended to cover garages made of wave iron liquid heaters covering the metal tightly.

Tools and materials

For insulation iron garage with your own hands you need the following tool:

electric drill;
building level;
scissors for metal;
hacksaw;
screwdriver;
roulette;
stapler for wood.

For installation of insulation you will need the following materials:

wooden slats or metal profile;
staples;
self-tapping screws;
paint brushes or rollers.

Warming methods

For insulation metal garage used traditional and modern types of materials. Their choice in each case depends on the availability of material resources and the specific climatic conditions in which the garage is located. Each of the selected options has its own dignity and limitations.

Classical

Is an traditional and affordable. These include:

Mineral wool slabs. They have high rates of thermal insulation, therefore they are often used in construction. However, this material has a significant drawback - it unstable to moisture... Therefore, it must be used together with a hydro and vapor barrier layer.
Glass wool. Cheaper. Compared to the previous material, it has a lower cost. Its disadvantage, in addition to its instability to moisture, is its low fire safety. Glass wool- flammable material. Therefore, its use in the garage is not entirely appropriate.
Styrofoam. Waterproof, easy to install. Possesses high thermal insulation properties. In addition, the foam is resistant to mold and mildew. In addition, this material has a low price. The disadvantage of polystyrene is its flammability, therefore, it is recommended to choose exclusively the brand for the garage PBS-S with a fire retardant in the composition.

Modern

Do-it-yourself insulation of a metal garage from the inside with the help modern materials:

Penoizol- liquid foam. It is waterproof, flame retardant, durable. The cost of it below than Styrofoam.
Astratek- is applied to the surface like a regular paint, therefore easy to use... Will reliably protect the walls of a metal garage. In terms of thermal insulation properties, the astratek layer is comparable to a 500 mm mineral wool coating.
Polyurethane foam(PPU). To use it, you will need a special. equipment. This method of insulation is the most reliable and durable (the coating lasts from 70 years), but at the same time it is enough expensive.

In the photo below insulation DIY metal garage:

Process description

How to do it right insulate unheated metal garage?

The quality of the thermal coating of garage surfaces depends on compliance technology... Each of the methods has its own nuances and sequence of the process. Let's describe the process of carrying out the work in stages:

To reduce heat loss when leaving the garage, you can make a small Door or build a curtain next to them. The material for the curtain can be a thick fabric or 0.8 mm film. This is done as follows:

a wooden rail is stuffed next to the gate;
material of the required height is cut off;
the material is fastened to the rail with a stapler in strips of 20 cm overlap.

A more reliable way would be gate insulation lining with a suitable material.

Most often used for this Styrofoam... This choice is due to its ease and simplicity of installation.

The foam is cut with a knife into the required pieces. For fastening, wooden strips are stuffed on the gate, which will hold the foam.

Metal surfaces are covered with waterproofing, and the slats are impregnated with an anti-fungus agent.

The foam pieces are lubricated with a special adhesive and are attached to the gate. Slots and joints must be covered with sealant or foamed.

The surface of the insulation can be covered with slats, plastic panels or any materials that are resistant to moisture.

Be sure to lay a foam or rubber gasket around the perimeter so that it does not fall into the gap cold air.

If there are gutters or vents at the bottom, plug them with rags for the winter.

All of the above methods of insulation are also suitable for their application. outside... The use of simultaneous insulation from the outside and from the inside will allow you to get the maximum warm room, in which it will not only effectively store the car, but also comfortably perform various types of work.

Compliance with technology and all of the listed rules insulation a metal garage will allow you to get a guaranteed result. Your car will be under reliable protection.

ru-house.net

What kind of insulation is better to take

Naturally, the insulation of an unheated metal garage for any normal owner begins with the choice of material. And if before it was mainly only foam, now the market provides many options.

Board materials of medium and high strength;
Soft fibrous;
Foam;
Liquid insulation.

Plate insulation

As in the past, and to this day, when insulating metal structures, one of the most popular materials is foam plates. Such nationwide love is associated, first of all, with an affordable cost. But this is not the only advantage of the old man foam. These plates are not afraid of moisture and under normal conditions of a closed garage they can serve for at least 25 - 30 years. Of the negative qualities in our case, only flammability can be called, although here the market also offers self-extinguishing PSB-S plates;
The closest relative and competitor of foam is extruded polystyrene foam, in our country better known as Penoplex (by the name of the manufacturer's company). This material bypasses its predecessor in almost all characteristics.

The strength of Penoplex is enough to pour a screed over it and put a machine on this screed. In terms of thermal insulation, it is better by about a third, expanded polystyrene 30 mm thick, easily replaces a 50 mm foam sheet.

If the foam partially allows air to pass through, then Penoplex is considered a reliable waterproofer and can be mounted even under water. Everything in it is good, but only the price is almost 2 times higher than that of polystyrene, and for most owners of metal garages this is important.

Wadded insulation

Here I will immediately disappoint you. Whatever the density of fiber boards or mats, they are all subject to one misfortune. These materials do not tolerate moisture even in small doses. When wet by 1%, the thermal insulation properties of any of these heaters fall by 7 - 9%.

It is impossible to insulate a metal sheet with cotton wool. In a closed garage space, the dew point will be in close proximity to the sheet. And if you put a hygroscopic insulation on the metal, then even with polyethylene waterproofing or a layer of ordinary paint, it will very quickly be saturated with moisture and become useless. There is one trick here, but I'll talk about it later.

Foam

The most famous material in this niche is polyurethane foam.... The developers promise that such a "fur coat" will last at least 50 years. It is quite durable, not afraid of moisture, and in terms of thermal insulation characteristics, it is slightly inferior only to Penoplex.
But she has 2 serious flaws: firstly, the price of the material is above average, and secondly, you will also have to pay specialists for applying this foam, since independent arrangement in this case is impossible due to the lack of expensive equipment ;
The so-called penoizol is not much cheaper than the previous version... I will not praise it, I will only say that it is the same polystyrene, only in cylinders. Compared to slabs, it only benefits from a sealed seamless installation.

You should not use polyurethane foam as the main insulation, it was invented for completely different purposes. Plus, as far as I know, the insulation of the gate only with mounting foam will require at least 5 - 7 cylinders, and if you count the total square with all the nooks, then the garage will come out "golden".

New-fashioned polymer paints

The most famous, at the moment, liquid polymer insulation is the "Astratek" heat-insulating paint. This is a great outlet for the rich and lazy. It is applied with a roller or with a regular brush. A layer thickness of 1 mm is sufficient to replace a fifty-millimeter cotton mat. It is not afraid of moisture, does not burn and, according to the assurances of the developers, will serve for at least 10 - 15 years.
But in order to provide a coating with a thickness of 1 mm per 1 m2, you will need a little more than 1 liter of such paint, and this 1 liter costs 400 rubles and more. Considering that at least 2 such layers are needed, it is not difficult to calculate what all the insulation will cost you;
Recently, a new heat-insulating paint has entered the market under the brand name "Korund"... It has become a worthy competitor to the previous version, since at a price of about 600 rubles per liter, only 400gr of the composition is needed to ensure the same level of thermal insulation per 1m², the savings are obvious.

How to insulate a garage

We sort of figured out the main material, now it's time to tell you how to properly insulate an unheated metal garage. I think you yourself know how to use a brush and paint, so there is no point in dwelling on liquid polymer insulation. But you can talk about the other options.

As you know, in theory, such work is carried out both inside and outside the premises. But to be honest, I have never seen such metal structures sheathed with something outside, so further we will only talk about how to insulate an iron garage from the inside.

A few words about preparation

Whatever you decide to decorate the walls from the inside, first of all, any foundation needs to be prepared. If you skip this step, then either the metal sheet will rust over time, or the insulation will fall off.

It is no secret that the main enemy of most ferrous metals is corrosion, therefore, the sheet must, first of all, be protected from banal rust. If the metal is clean, that is, not painted, you need to walk over the surface with an iron cord-brush. Things will go faster if you take the appropriate attachment for a grinder or drill. Old paint can also be scraped off well with a cord brush.

If the sheet is qualitatively painted over with good paint, then there is no particular point in removing it, there will be nothing with it under a dense layer of insulation. Separately, I would like to say about the so-called "shells" (garages made of galvanized profiled sheet on a frame made of profiled pipes or a corner). The professional sheet initially has a high-quality coating and does not need to be touched.

The final stage of preparation is considered to be degreasing with acetone or some similar composition.

Then you need to act according to the situation. For polyurethane foam or foam insulation, this is sufficient. But under the foam, it is better to paint over the iron again. In my garage I used "Kuzbasslak", it is not expensive and of high quality.

We mount styrofoam

In my opinion, if the walls of your garage are welded from a smooth, even sheet, then foam will be the best option. In this case, buying Penoplex, you actually overpay 2 times for 3-4 cm of space saving. On walls and ceilings, the strength of the coating does not play a big role, especially if you are going to sheathe them later.

For those who are on a tight budget, there is an economical cladding option. It should be noted here that in regions where the temperature in winter drops to -20 - 25 ° C, the thickness of the foam is taken at least 100 mm, otherwise it makes no sense to start all this, 70 mm is enough for the foam. There is one trick, though, and I'll talk about it a little later.

The instruction itself is extremely simple. You need to take the required number of sheets, cut them so that they completely cover the walls and glue them. You can take any construction glue, I personally used Liquid Nails. Small cracks and gaps, which you will inevitably have, need to be blown out with polyurethane foam.

By the way, the same polyurethane foam can be used instead of glue. Apply a few strips and place the sheet against the wall. Only in this case, you need to press it several times during an hour, since the foam expands and the sheet, in the first couples, will move away.

In principle, we can stop at this. But as I promised, there is one trick. In order not to buy too thick foam, you can take a thinner material.

Only here you will need an isolon foil on both sides. The base in this soft canvas is made of expanded polyethylene, which is covered with foil on both sides.

So, this isolon is glued on top of your foam. The result is a thermos effect, plus a pretty decent silver wall covering. With regard to thermal insulation, this is enough. But, as you know, the foam material is soft and it is impossible to stuff nails with hooks on it or hang shelves on it, but you must admit that without this it is hard in the garage.

Isolon foam cover is great for decorating the ceiling in an iron garage. You will not hang anything on it, but beauty is enough.

In order to make a capital, warm cladding from the inside with our own hands, we will have to equip a wooden crate on the walls and gates. Any metal garage has a reinforcing frame, so we will attach our wooden bars to it. It is not so important what exactly the garage is reinforced with, be it a corner or a profiled pipe, we simply drill a number of holes from the side and fasten a wooden block with screws at intervals of about 20 - 30 cm.

There is one caveat here: the height of the bar should not be lower than the level of foam insulation. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient for you to attach the interior finishing lining.

When the wooden lathing is fixed, proceed as described above. That is, clearly according to the dimensions of the openings, we cut the slab insulation closely, glue it to the base and blow out the gaps with foam. Further on the crate you can fill the lining.

For a simpler version, sheathing from OSB panels or thick plywood is suitable, they will withstand any reasonable load. From myself I will add, isolon, or at least just a layer of foil on top of the foam, in any case, it is worth sticking, such an interlayer increases the heat-reflecting effect at times.

Especially if you are going to use the now fashionable "Ufo" radiators for heating. UV rays from the foil cover are reflected much better, even if the cover is under the wood cladding.

Floor insulation

According to building codes, an uninsulated foundation in a private house takes up to 20% of the energy spent on heating. The garage in this case is practically no different from a residential building. From experience I can say that the insulated floor blocks the dampness from the concrete screed.

True, I decided not to save on floor insulation. I have a metal garage box on a small, shallow strip foundation. Inside, the former owners did not strain and simply covered the floor with dump slag. Those who know what dump slag from steel-making furnaces is, imagine how much dust there is in such a garage, so it had to be changed anyway.

First, I removed about 150 mm of soil along with slag, after which I leveled and tamped the base a little. The first layer of the "pie" I have poured sand 50 mm, if possible, it should be leveled and tamped along the horizon. Next, I laid a 50 mm thick layer of styrofoam. If the base is even, then it is not difficult to join it, there are special grooves there.

It is not necessary to waterproof Penoplex, as I said, it itself is a good waterproofing agent. I poured a couple of centimeters of sand onto the insulation, tied a two-layer reinforcing cage of ten-millimeter reinforcement and poured a concrete screed about 50 - 70 mm from above.

But that is not all. In order for the floor to be really warm, you need to make an inclined blind area around the garage, as well as when arranging the foundation in the house.

According to the rules, so that the soil under the building does not freeze, the width of the blind area should be equal to the level of freezing in the region. But in practice, a tape about a meter wide is usually made. The technology for laying the blind area is the same, only the insulation and the concrete screed are mounted at an inclination of at least 3 cm.

I was assured that instead of foam plastic it is possible to put foam plastic sheets with a density of about 37 kg / m³ into the screed. Supposedly, such a pillow can withstand any passenger car up to a bus, plus it comes out cheaper. Perhaps this is so, but I believe that in such designs, the safety margin has never been superfluous.

Many people now prefer to mount a slab foundation instead of a shallow concrete foundation tape. Simply put, they make a small sand and gravel cushion and place concrete floor slabs on it. So, if you are just going to build a garage, then under the slabs, right on the dump, you need to lay a layer of styrofoam, it will withstand the load.

If the garage is already on the slabs, then it is possible to insulate it from below only by constructing an overhead wooden floor. As you know, concrete floor slabs are hollow, so first you need to plug the holes in the ends with something.

The arrangement itself is not complicated. So that the wood does not draw moisture from the concrete, the base must be waterproofed. It is not worth spending money on expensive rolled waterproofing, roofing material or technical polyethylene is enough.

Now we lay logs across the garage, insert polystyrene between them and sew everything on top with a floor covering. As a lag, bars of 50x50 mm are taken, respectively, and foam plates are used with a thickness of 50 mm.

In order for your floor to be guaranteed to withstand the car, the distance between the logs should be no more than 40 cm.

There are 2 options for flooring. Floor grooved board with a thickness of 40 mm, or two layers of FSF plywood, each with a thickness of at least 16 mm. To make the floor wear less, linoleum can be laid on top.

Alternative options

The most difficult thing is to insulate their garages for the owners of "shells". As you know, the profiled sheet itself is wavy and it is difficult to sew it up with foam. In theory, of course, you can build a wooden crate on the basis of the frame and pack it with foam, in fact, you get a box in a box.

But the problem is that, as a rule, the dimensions of the "shells" are already more than modest, if you take another 150-200 mm for insulation, it will be very noticeable. Apart from the insulating paint, there is only one way out, the use of foam.

In the conditions of central Russia, the layer of polyurethane foam or penoizol must be at least 50 - 70 mm. This is subject to the additional installation of a wooden finishing cladding or foil-clad isolon.

The cross-section of profiled pipes or frame corners in such structures often does not exceed 35 - 40 mm. This is not enough, the coating is corrugated, which means that more foam will be spent on filling the depressions. While the thickness of the layer in narrow places will be less than 40 mm. As a result, you will pay money, and the garage will freeze.

I told all this to the fact that a wooden hinged frame, albeit not so voluminous, in the case of "shells" still needs to be mounted. To some extent, you will be able to save money only if you make this frame yourself and prepare the surface of the profiled sheet (degrease it). Then you will pay only for the material and a couple of hours of work of a specialist, 1 - 2 hours will be enough for a professional to blow out the garage with foam.

At the beginning of the article, I promised to tell you about a trick with which you can insulate an unheated metal garage with mineral wool. It will be about dense, basalt cotton slabs. Such plates do not shrink with insignificant moisture. Whereas in case of wetting, soft mineral mats, as well as glass wool, immediately lose their volume and after drying are no longer restored.

Often, the dew point on the walls of a heated garage is almost on the surface of the metal, so condensation drops settle on the iron walls. I saw how one friend of mine, in order to cope with this problem, filled a wooden crate and over it pasted over the entire garage with a thickness of about 5 - 7 mm, foil-coated isolon.

After that, I inserted basalt slabs into the niches, covered it all with another layer of isolon and sewed it up with clapboard. As a result, hygroscopic basalt wool found itself in an isolated cocoon. And most importantly, at a distance of a few millimeters from the cold iron. The result turned out to be quite decent, the garage has been reliably keeping warm for several years and does not get wet.

I would also like to say a few words about auxiliary things when insulating garages. Naturally, when the doors open wide when leaving or entering the garage, all the precious heat instantly evaporates. As far as I have seen, it is really possible to fight this only with the help of a thermal curtain.

That is, a special fan heater is mounted above the gate, which separates the outside cold with a powerful stream of warm air. But the price of such a fan is not small, plus its power consumption is solid, at least 3 - 4KW. Although if you use it only when the doors are fully open, you will not spend much.

Things like clear plastic petal curtains, similar to those found in car washes, can only be hung if you don't mind scratching your car. Even if they are made of soft polyethylene, after several trips, scratches will remain on the roof.

15751 0 9

How to insulate a metal garage for a long time

A warm garage is a coveted dream of any motorist. At one time I was happy as a child when I managed to acquire a good, as it seemed to me at that time, a metal garage. But very soon it became clear that in the off-season it gets damp, and in winter it protects only from the wind. Therefore, the question of warming arose quite quickly. I decided to devote this material to how to insulate a metal garage with my own hands. In it I will tell about my own experience and tell you what advice different experts gave me.

If you believe SNiP 21.02-99, for comfortable storage of cars and trucks and starting the engine without preliminary preparation, the temperature in the box (garage) should not fall below + 5 ° C, and should be based on this figure.

What kind of insulation is better to take

Naturally, the insulation of an unheated metal garage for any normal owner begins with the choice of material. And if before it was mainly only foam, now the market provides many options.

Board materials of medium and high strength;
Soft fibrous;
Foam;
Liquid insulation.

Plate insulation

As in the past, and to this day, when insulating metal structures, one of the most popular materials is foam plates. Such nationwide love is associated, first of all, with an affordable cost. But this is not the only advantage of the old man foam. These plates are not afraid of moisture and under normal conditions of a closed garage they can serve for at least 25 - 30 years. Of the negative qualities in our case, only flammability can be called, although here the market also offers self-extinguishing PSB-S plates;
The closest relative and competitor of foam is extruded polystyrene foam, in our country better known as Penoplex (by the name of the manufacturer's company). This material bypasses its predecessor in almost all characteristics.

Wadded insulation

It is impossible to insulate a metal sheet with cotton wool. In a closed garage space, the dew point will be in close proximity to the sheet. And if you put a hygroscopic insulation on the metal, then even with polyethylene waterproofing or an ordinary layer, it will very quickly be saturated with moisture and become useless. There is one trick here, but I'll talk about it later.

Foam

The most famous material in this niche is polyurethane foam.... The developers promise that such a "fur coat" will last at least 50 years. It is quite durable, not afraid of moisture, and in terms of thermal insulation characteristics, it is slightly inferior only to Penoplex.
But she has 2 serious flaws: firstly, the price of the material is above average, and secondly, you will also have to pay specialists for applying this foam, since independent arrangement in this case is impossible due to the lack of expensive equipment ;
The so-called penoizol is not much cheaper than the previous version... I will not praise it, I will only say that it is the same polystyrene, only in cylinders. Compared to slabs, it only benefits from a sealed seamless installation.

You should not use polyurethane foam as the main insulation, it was invented for completely different purposes. Plus, as far as I know, the insulation of the gate only with mounting foam will require at least 5 - 7 cylinders, and if you count the total square with all the nooks, then the garage will come out "golden".

New-fashioned polymer paints

The most famous, at the moment, liquid polymer insulation is the "Astratek" heat-insulating paint. This is a great outlet for the rich and lazy. It is applied with a roller or with a regular brush. A layer thickness of 1 mm is sufficient to replace a fifty-millimeter cotton mat. It is not afraid of moisture, does not burn and, according to the assurances of the developers, will serve for at least 10 - 15 years.
But in order to provide a coating with a thickness of 1 mm per 1 m2, you will need a little more than 1 liter of such paint, and this 1 liter costs 400 rubles and more. Considering that at least 2 such layers are needed, it is not difficult to calculate what all the insulation will cost you;
Recently, a new heat-insulating paint has entered the market under the brand name "Korund"... It has become a worthy competitor to the previous version, since at a price of about 600 rubles per liter, only 400gr of the composition is needed to ensure the same level of thermal insulation per 1m², the savings are obvious.

How to insulate a garage

A few words about preparation

The final stage of preparation is considered to be degreasing with acetone or some similar composition.

We mount styrofoam

In principle, we can stop at this. But as I promised, there is one trick. In order not to buy too thick foam, you can take a thinner material.

Only here you will need an isolon foil on both sides. The base in this soft canvas is made of expanded polyethylene, which is covered with foil on both sides.

Isolon foam cover is great for decorating the ceiling in an iron garage. You will not hang anything on it, but beauty is enough.

In order to make a capital, warm cladding from the inside with our own hands, we will have to equip a wooden crate on the walls and gates. Any metal garage has a reinforcing frame, so we will attach our wooden bars to it. It is not so important what exactly the garage is reinforced with, whether it is a corner or, we just drill a number of holes from the side and, at intervals of about 20 - 30 cm, attach a wooden block to self-tapping screws.

There is one caveat here: the height of the bar should not be lower than the level of foam insulation. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient for you to attach the interior finishing lining.

Especially if you are going to use the now fashionable "Ufo" radiators for heating. UV rays from the foil cover are reflected much better, even if the cover is under the wood cladding.

Floor insulation

But that is not all. In order for the floor to be really warm, you need to make an inclined blind area around the garage, as well as when arranging the foundation in the house.

I was assured that instead of foam plastic it is possible to put foam plastic sheets with a density of about 37 kg / m³ into the screed. Supposedly, such a pillow can withstand any passenger car up to a bus, plus it comes out cheaper. Perhaps this is so, but I believe that in such designs, the safety margin has never been superfluous.

In order for your floor to be guaranteed to withstand the car, the distance between the logs should be no more than 40 cm.

Alternative options

Conclusion

Now you have an idea of how to insulate a metal garage yourself. The photo and video in this article contains additional information on the topic. If you know other ways to insulate such structures or you still have questions, write in the comments, we will discuss all this.