What kind of canopy to make? How to quickly and cheaply make a canopy for your house with your own hands: types, drawings, tips

With the help of canopies, you can protect your home from rain, snow and sun, expand your living space, and shelter your car or other equipment from precipitation. With the many functions that this extension performs, building a canopy with your own hands is more than a doable task even for a beginner!

Shed structures - from extension to construction!

A canopy is a general name for a very large number of different extensions and independent buildings. The designs of canopies are very different - single-slope and double-slope, straight and multi-faceted. And the classification according to the location of structures is even greater:

attached canopies are erected close to the wall of a house or other building, above the entrance or above an open balcony or veranda. Such structures are easy to carry out after the construction of the house; initially they are not included in the building plan;
built-in structures are part of the architectural ensemble; they are provided for at the building design stage. Such canopies are most often built over a barbecue area, making it like an extension of the house;
free-standing sheds are erected away from buildings. Most often, these are built due to the lack of a garage, or for short-term storage of any materials. Free-standing structures are also popular in wide open areas, where they are arranged for people to relax, as an alternative to gazebos.

A variety of materials are used for canopies, both to create the supporting structure itself and for the roof. Traditionally this is wood, polycarbonate, corrugated sheets, metal profiles, reeds. “Living” canopies look very original, the roof of which is completely overgrown with vines, for example, girl’s grapes. The easiest way to do this is that the bars can also be replaced with metal pipes.

Building a canopy with your own hands - where to start?

Let's consider the option of building a free-standing canopy with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists and assistants. To implement the 6*3 m canopy project at the first stage you will need:

six profile pipes 100*100*4000 mm;
13 boards 50*150*6000 mm;
15 boards 30*150*6000 mm;
2-3 bags of cement;
0.2 m 3 crushed stone;
0.2 m 3 sand;
Bulgarian;
concrete mixer or container for manual mixing of concrete.

Try to make purchases immediately before starting work, since for convenience it is best to store all materials directly at the construction site. After purchasing, we make markings for the supports; we need to create a rectangle, the sides of which are 3 and 6 m. On the six-meter sides we will place three supports, for which we need to dig holes, making them deeper than the soil freezing layer.

The upper ends of the supports must first be prepared for attaching the beams. This is not difficult to do, but you will need a grinder. Using a tool, we cut the ends at the corners by 100 mm and bend two opposite sides inward, forming a place for landing the beam. In the standing sides we make two holes for bolts with which the beams will be securely fastened.

We pour some crushed stone into the prepared holes at the bottom, install the racks and fix them with guy ropes. We align the profiles on a six-meter board, which must be attached to the two outer posts. The middle support can also be placed on the same board. To level the top ends of the posts, measure two meters from the top ends and make appropriate marks. Having stretched the twine between the outer posts, using a liquid level, which must be applied to the horizontally stretched twine, we check the correct location of the supports.

When you're done with one side, move on to the next. Everything needs to be done according to the same algorithm, the only difference between the sides is the different heights of the supports. One of the sides should be 30-50 cm higher for water drainage. When the racks are installed and fixed, start preparing the solution - for 1 part of cement you need 3 parts of sand and 4 parts of crushed stone. Pour the prepared solution into the holes with exposed supports. After letting it harden a little, you should fix the upper ends by placing the boards on the prepared places.

It is advisable to wait until the concrete gains sufficient rigidity; this can take from two weeks to a month.

Don't forget to water it in hot weather, and if frost is approaching, cover the supports at the base with a good layer of soil. It is best to wait for the period required for complete hardening, but if necessary, you can begin the final stage within a few days.

How to make a canopy - let's get down to the rafters and roofing!

When the concrete has hardened properly, it’s time to start working on the rafters and roofing. You will need materials and tools such as:

metal tiles or polycarbonate or other type of roofing – 18 m2;
self-tapping screws for metal tiles (160 pcs) or fastenings for other types of roofing;
0.5 kg nails (120 mm);
10 bolts with nuts (diameter – 10 mm, length – 150 mm);
fasteners for gutters (20 pcs);
drain gutters - 6 meters.

How to make a canopy - step by step diagram

Step 1: Installing Beams Between Posts

Timber can be used as beams, but after some time longitudinal cracks may appear in it, which impairs the rigidity of this material. Therefore, it is recommended to use two boards 50*150*6000 mm, which are bolted together.

Step 2: Installing rafters and sheathing

Transverse boards are fixed to the beams at a distance of 75 cm from each other. Across these boards at the edges and in the middle we lay boards with a smaller cross-section to ensure stability in the vertical position. The boards should be fastened to the beams with ordinary nails, since the self-tapping screws break due to vibration, because they are heated during production. After securing the boards, we install the remaining “thirties”, to which we will then screw the metal tiles. The distance between the boards should be equal to or less than the wave width of the roofing material.

Step 3: Laying the roof

When installing metal tiles, you need to attach the bottom sheets first, and then the top ones. If there is excess, it is better to trim it with a grinder or metal scissors. There are special fasteners for this.

Step 4: Spillway

When the roof is ready, it's time to start installing drain gutters. We measure the required length, cut off the excess with a grinder, and, distributing them evenly along the entire length of the canopy, fasten them with self-tapping screws. When all the fasteners are installed, it's time to lay the gutters in them. You can study the same diagram before making a canopy over the garage - this task will differ only in the absence of two racks that will be replaced by the garage wall. Under such a canopy, not only a person, but also a car can easily hide from rain or other precipitation.

Important nuances - what you shouldn’t forget!

You already know how to make a canopy, all you have to do is figure out how to extend its service life. To do this, treat both metal and wooden elements with protective compounds before installation. In the case of metal pipes, these are anti-corrosion primers, and it is important to treat wooden elements with anti-fungal and water-repellent primers. They come in both colorless and tinted, so in addition to their protective function, they will also add visual appeal to the canopy.

After making a canopy, do not forget to pay attention to the floor. There are many options - from a concrete screed to a cushion of gravel or crushed stone. If the canopy is built at the house, then the best option would be wooden flooring. A few sockets and good lighting under the canopy would be helpful. In order not to spend money on unnecessary building materials, plant climbing plants around the canopy, for example, virgin grapes, which can cover a huge area in one season. This is both beautiful and practical, because thanks to the vines you will get good protection from the wind.

A year after building the house, I wanted to attach a canopy to its front wall. So that it is functional, but at the same time very simple in design. What was required from the canopy? The most important thing is that thanks to it I wanted to get an additional place for summer relaxation, protected from sunlight and rain. For outdoor gatherings, so you can have lunch in the courtyard and relax on a sun lounger. According to the project, the canopy was supposed to be a kind of replacement for an open gazebo, but with a simpler design. So that during construction a minimum of material resources and physical effort is spent.

Within 2 weeks the plan was implemented. Based on the acquired practical skills and knowledge, I would like to bring to your attention a report on the construction of the simplest classic canopy attached to a house.

What are we going to build?

The design chosen was standard for this type of canopy. This is simply a roof truss system on supports. The dimensions of the canopy in plan are 1.8 x 6 m, the height to the roof is 2.4 m. On one side, metal pillars (4 pieces along the facade) are used as a supporting element, on the other, a board screwed to the wall of the house. The roof covering is Ondura sheets (analogous to Ondulin, with larger sheet sizes). It is planned to install lattice trellises for grapes between the pillars, so that you can sit in the shade under a canopy, enjoying nature and fresh air, even in the midday heat.

So, I’ll start the story about how this idea was realized. I hope I can clearly describe the whole process.

Step #1 – installation of metal poles

I started by installing metal pillars, that is, the vertical posts of the canopy, which will support the roof truss system. There are only 4 of them, they run along the facade, at a distance of 1.8 m from the wall. According to the plan, the length of the canopy is 6 m (along the entire length of the facade of the house), so the pitch of the racks is 1.8 m (taking into account the roof extensions on both sides of the racks).

For the racks, 4 steel pipes of 60x60x3 mm square section with a length of 3.9 m were purchased. They will be buried 1.5 m into the ground (below the freezing level), 2.4 m will remain on top. This will be the height of the canopy.

First, I marked with pegs the places where the posts should be installed - strictly at a distance of 1.8 m from the wall. I measured everything and calculated the horizontal lines. Then I took a drill with a 150 mm nozzle and drilled 4 holes 1.5 m deep.

Hole drilled with a drill

According to the planned program, a concrete pile foundation will be poured under the racks. This is done as follows: each rack is installed in a pit into which concrete is poured. The result is reinforced piles holding the posts.

It is not advisable to pour concrete directly into drilled holes. It is necessary to make insulation, which will simultaneously serve as formwork. To do this, I decided to use roofing felt sleeves - sections of roofing felt rolled into a cylinder. The length of the sleeves should be such that the concrete piles protrude 10 cm above the ground level. For a pit 1.5 m deep, at the bottom of which a 10 cm sand cushion will be poured, sleeves 1.5 m long are required. The diameter of the sleeves is 140 mm.

Concrete poured into roofing felt sleeves holds metal posts

I cut pieces of roofing felt, rolled them into sleeves and fastened them with tape (you can use a stapler). Next, a 10 cm layer of sand was poured into the bottom of each hole and a sleeve was inserted there. The concrete formwork is ready.

Metal stands were installed in the sleeves. First - the two outer ones, I aligned them vertically and height (2.4 m), pulled a cord between them and placed two intermediate posts along it. After which I poured concrete into the sleeves (from the ready-made mixture, just added water and that’s it - very convenient).

Racks aligned along a stretched cord

I allowed 3 days for the concrete to set and cure. It is not advisable to load the racks during this time, so I started preparing the wooden parts - support boards and rafters.

Step #2 – making the roof

The roof structure includes 2 support boards on which the rafters and the entire roof structure will be supported. One of the boards is mounted on the wall, the other on posts. Rafters are laid on top of the support boards, in the transverse direction.

The boards were taken with a section of 150x50 mm, 6 m long. Since the canopy was originally planned as a solid but inexpensive structure, I bought unplaned boards. I planed and sanded them myself, which took some time. But I was confident in the result and smoothed the surface to the highest standard.

The rafters will be laid in the grooves of the support boards. Another headache - you need to cut the grooves, and at the angle of the rafters. To determine the angle and insertion locations, we had to perform a test installation of the boards. I screwed such a board to the wall with 140x8 mm wood grouse, and to the metal posts with 8 mm studs using washers and nuts.

Attaching support boards to posts and walls

Now that the support boards are in place, a small tool was used, with the help of which I determined the angle of inclination of the rafters. After which the boards were removed and grooves for the rafters were cut into them, taking into account a known angle.

The rafters are also made of boards 150x50 mm, 2 m long. There were 7 rafters in total. Their installation step on the support boards is 1 m.

After fitting the rafters to the grooves, all parts were painted with Holz Lazur JOBI glazing compound in teak color.

Then everything was installed. Support boards - as during preliminary fastening, that is, with the help of wood grouse and pins. The rafters were laid on top, in the grooves of the boards, and hammered in with nails. Each groove required 2 nails driven through the rafters obliquely, towards each other.

Installing rafters into the grooves of the support boards

For the sheathing under Ondura we used 100x25 mm boards, 6 m long - 7 pieces. I screwed them across the rafters with self-tapping screws.

Formation of sheathing for flexible roofing sheets

Ondura sheets are laid on the sheathing and nailed with rough nails with plastic caps to match the color of the flooring. In fact, the roof is already ready, now you don’t have to worry about rain and arrange a place under a canopy. For example, bring a garden table and chairs there.

Canopy covered with sheets of Euro slate Ondura

The ends of the rafters remained open, which is not very good in terms of decorativeness. And there was nowhere to attach the drain. Therefore, to complete the roof, I screwed a 6 m long frontal board - clapboard - to the ends of the rafters.

The front board covers the ends of the rafters and creates support for the gutter

The next stage is fixing the drain. Two 3-meter drains are mounted on the front board. The drainage from the roof goes into a watering pipe through which the grapes will be watered.

Step #3 – pouring the foundation for the mini-wall

To prevent water from getting under the canopy during rain, I decided to make a low brick retaining wall between the posts. It requires a strip foundation, which I made using standard technology. I dug a trench between the supports using the bayonet of a shovel and set out the formwork from the boards. I poured a 10 cm sand cushion at the bottom of the trench. And on top of it I placed 2 reinforcement bars on supports to fasten (reinforce) the foundation.

I was afraid to do it without reinforcement, you never know, it might crack and fall apart. Then he mixed the concrete and poured it into the trench. It was necessary to wait until the concrete set and hardened, so I decided to return to the supporting wall later. And now – start decorating your building.

Step #4 - installing covers on posts and trellises

It's time to look at the canopy with a critical eye. The metal uprights of the canopy stood out a little from the overall composition. I decided to decorate and refine them by sewing them with wooden overlays. Just for this I have a few 100x25 mm boards left. I secured them on top of the metal posts using pieces of M8 studs, washers and nuts. There was space left between the overlays (on the side where the trellis was installed), so I inserted a 45x20 mm rail there. The slats formed protrusions; the horizontal elements of the trellis will be attached to them.

Wooden plates are fixed to metal racks

The time has come to attach the trellises. I chose a lattice pattern for them with a carved hole in the center. This hole allowed me to use not only long slats for the trellis, but also trimmings. We can say that it turned out to be a waste-free production. And this pattern looks more interesting than standard monotonous squares.

The slats for the trellises were made by longitudinally dissolving the 100x25mm boards I had. The board was split into three parts, and the resulting slats were sanded. The final cross-section of the slats (after grinding) is 30x20 mm.

I made the trellises without a frame; the slats are attached only to the vertical protrusions of the posts. At first, I set up horizontal slats, screwing them to the protrusions with self-tapping screws. Then, vertical slats were secured on top of them. The result was a decorative trellis, near which the wife planted grapes. Now it is already winding with might and main along the trellis and has almost blocked the wall of the structure. The shade protects from the midday heat. This is very useful, since the canopy is located on the south side of the house and without a canopy it was almost impossible to rest here during the day due to the abnormal heat.

Trellis are assembled from slats directly “on site”

Trellis cover the front part of the canopy

Step #5 - building a retaining wall

The last stage is the construction of a retaining wall. The strip foundation under it has already frozen, work can begin. For waterproofing, I glued 2 layers of roofing felt to the foundation tape, coating each layer with mastic. On top, along the roofing felt, I built a level retaining wall, 3 bricks high.

The retaining wall will not allow raindrops and water to fall onto the area under the canopy during irrigation.

Now there will be less dirt when watering and raining. And the canopy looks much nicer this way.

Canopy with trellises for a vineyard

That's probably all. The shed was built. I implemented the entire project alone, but I did not notice any difficulties in the process. Subsequently, the area under the canopy was covered with paving slabs. You can say that I have a covered terrace or an open gazebo - whatever you like, call it that. Although in terms of design, this is an ordinary canopy on poles, the construction of which took very little time.

Source: diz-cafe.com

How to quickly and cheaply make a canopy for your house

We can say that the private sector is a vast field for home-grown craftsmen and designers, so the question of how to make a canopy for a house with your own hands, also quickly and cheaply, is quite relevant and important for many residents. Such a structure not only decorates the home - it protects it from precipitation, therefore, it increases the service life of covered structures, as a rule, a porch (terrace) doors and windows. A visor will also come in handy in hot sunny weather - in the shade you can simply sit down and relax in the fresh air.

Simple wooden shed attached to a house

What is needed for this

Since we are talking about simple and inexpensive canopies, first of all, all the elements from which the protective and decorative structure will be assembled must meet these criteria. But, despite the supposed low cost, you can always make a choice, since different materials can be used for the roof, rafter system (sheathing) and support posts, and their price will remain almost the same. You also need a certain set of tools, without which such an assembly is impossible and on which the quality of construction work also depends.

What materials can be used to build a canopy?

Metal tiles can be of different colors

This list lists the main materials for building sheds, which are relatively inexpensive, and also gives their brief characteristics:

Metal tiles and corrugated sheets are sheet coverings with a large margin of mechanical strength. Powder painting on metal does not react to ultraviolet radiation (sunlight), therefore, does not lose its original color. The service life here is practically unlimited.
Polycarbonate can be cast or cellular, but for canopies it is better to use the first option (my opinion). In terms of mechanical strength, its performance is 200 times higher than that of glass of the same thickness and 100 times higher than that of acrylic. Sheets can be completely transparent, matte or have many other shades according to the RAL table (color table).
Asbestos-cement slate - the name of the material indicates what it is made of, that is, from asbestos and cement. Sheets can be flat or wavy. The second option implies the presence of 5, 6, 7 and 8 waves (for roofing work it should be the same). In production and operation, corrugated asbestos-cement slate must comply with GOST 30340-95, and flat slate GOST 118124-95.
Fiber cement slate - sheets consist of cement and mineral fillers, which are reinforced with cellulose fibers (fiber). This is a very durable material that can withstand heavy mechanical loads, such as a blow from a branch. At the household level, it is used very rarely as a roofing material.
Lumber – timber, boards, timber, moisture-resistant plywood, OSB. For vertical supports, a board of 50×100 mm, 50×70 mm is usually used, or it can be a beam of 100×100 mm. For the Mauerlat (load-bearing beams) and rafter legs, boards of 50×100 mm and 50×70 mm are also suitable. Bars of different sections are often used to create fencing, and plywood and OSB are used as roofing.
Metal profile – a hollow profile of round, square and rectangular cross-section can be used. For support posts, as a rule, a pipe with a diameter of at least 60 mm, a square with a cross-section of at least 60×60 mm, and a rectangle with a cross-section of at least 70×40 mm are used. For rafter legs, a 20x50 mm profile mounted on an edge (50 mm in height and 20 mm in width) is suitable.
Fasteners - self-tapping screws for wood and metal with and without a press washer, bolts with nuts and washers, steel angles and plates.

What tools may be needed

Electric hand-held circular saw

The following tools may be needed for work:

A hand-powered circular saw, but you can also use a wood saw.
Angle grinder (grinder) with cutting disc for metal.
Electric or cordless drill with a set of drills and attachments.
Hammer with a set of pobedit drills.
Electric welding of direct or alternating current.
Measuring tools - levels of different types of action, plumb line, tape measure, construction square, chokeline, pencil.

Source: mainavi.ru

How to quickly and inexpensively make a canopy for your house with your own hands

When you have a private house or your own dacha, you can do home-made construction. For example, one of the options for complementing the building structure is to make a canopy for the house with your own hands, cheaply and quickly. Such a structure will make outdoor recreation more enjoyable and protect your home from precipitation, and therefore increase its service life.

I apologize for the long article. Average reading time: 10 min.

What do you need to prepare?

Since this channel is dedicated to economical repairs, we will select available elements for the construction of a protective and decorative structure. Still, the low cost provides some freedom in the selection of materials for the roof, support posts and rafter system. In addition, you need to prepare all the necessary tools in advance, because the quality of the finished structure depends on this.

Choosing material for installing the canopy

Let's list the materials that can be used to build a canopy near the house. Everything that will be mentioned in this list can be bought for relatively little money:

🏡 Corrugated sheeting and metal tiles. This sheet material has excellent mechanical strength and a powder coating that is indifferent to sunlight. The service life is almost unlimited.

🏡 Polycarbonate. Available in two types: cast and cellular, but it is best to use cast. Polycarbonate is 200 times stronger than glass and 100 times stronger than acrylic, for the same thickness. Stores sell transparent, matte and colored sheets.

🏡 Slate. It is made from a mixture of asbestos and cement. Available in two form factors: flat and wavy (from 5 to 8 waves).

🏡 Fiber cement slate. This material is made from cement, mineral fillers and cellulose fibers (fibers). Such slate can withstand the impact of branches. Very rarely used in private construction.

🏡 Lumber. This group includes burs, boards, bars, OSB, and moisture-resistant plywood. For supports, they usually buy 50x70, 50x100 mm boards (these boards are also suitable for the Mauerlat), or 100x100 mm timber. The fencing is assembled from the timber, and the roof is hemmed with OSB and plywood.

🏡 Metal profile. Instead of wood, the frame can be assembled from a hollow profile. Support posts - pipe ⌀ 60 mm or profile 60x60, 70x40 mm. The rafters are assembled from a 20x50 mm profile.

🏡 Fastening. Self-tapping screws with a press washer for wood or metal, bolts with nuts and washers, steel angle, overlays.

Required Tools

The following tools will be useful in building a canopy for your home:

🏡 Wood hacksaw or electric hand-held circular saw.

🏡 Grinder with a set of metal wheels.

🏡 Hammer drill with a set of pobedit drills.

🏡 Control and measuring tools (level, plumb line, tape measure, square, pencil, chop cord).

The basic principle of constructing a canopy

In this article we discuss the construction of a canopy adjacent to one of the walls of the house. Typically, one edge of the roof of a structure is attached to a horizontal beam screwed to the wall with anchor dowels. But such a mount can be replaced with additional vertical posts. True, in this case you cannot make a mistake in the design of the junction, otherwise there will be drips on the house.

The fastest and easiest way is to make a single-pitched flat canopy near the house. In general, in architecture, double, rounded and even Chinese structures are used.

Sequence of general assembly steps

A canopy near a house with a wall support and a wooden frame is assembled in five steps:

Step 1. A load-bearing beam (board or beam 50x50 mm) is attached to the wall.

Step 2. Vertical supports are installed at a predetermined distance.

Step 3. The mauerlat is laid on top of the pillars. It should be parallel to the supporting beam and slightly lower to create a slope.

Step 4. Install rafters and roof sheathing.

Step 5. The roof is laid on the assembled frame.

The metal frame assembly is assembled according to the same principle, but using different fastenings (corners, bolts, plates, electric welding).

The construction of a canopy near the house may also differ in the method of installing support pillars. So, in some cases a concrete screed is poured, while in others the beams have to be secured to the porch using steel corners.

Laying roofing material

Polycarbonate the sheets are attached to the rafters with self-tapping screws and a press washer. Thanks to this, the mounting hole is closed with fasteners and there will be no leaks under the canopy. A split profile is installed at the joints of two sheets, and an end profile is attached to the edges with glue.

Metal tiles or corrugated sheets laid on the sheathing with an overlap. For fastening, a special self-tapping screw with a rubber gasket is used. You can screw the fasteners both into the waves themselves and between them. But if you plan to clear snow from the canopy in winter, then it would be more logical to screw in the screws between the waves.

Slate They start laying from the bottom row and do it overlapping. The waves are nailed to the crest of the crate with special nails. There should be a gap of 1-1.5 mm between the fastening cap and the slate itself for the canopy. It keeps the material intact by protecting it from thermal deformation of the metal. It is best to cut off the ends of the nails on the reverse side with a grinder.

Have you ever assembled a canopy for your home? Tell us in the comments what difficulties you encountered.

Source: zen.yandex.ru

Undercover agent: Making a canopy for the house

We learn to increase the usable area of the dacha “out of thin air”, and at the same time we study the “habits” of metal profiles and polycarbonate

A beautiful canopy attached to the house allows you to save on support posts and get a wall protected from the wind. In turn, with its help you can cover a terrace in your dacha, arrange a summer dining room, create a place for children’s games and a “pocket” for a car, where you don’t have to walk across the entire site. Of course, there is an option to purchase a construction set from the manufacturer, but it is much more pleasant to make a canopy at the dacha with your own hands.

Since this event initially implies a small budget (with a larger one there would be no need to wonder how to build a canopy for the house with your own hands), we will focus on two inexpensive materials - metal profiles and polycarbonate.

How to make a canopy: design
Compared to stand-alone ones, sheds attached to the house (as in the photo) have several design features. Firstly, the height of such a canopy for a summer house is limited by the overhang of the roof of the main building. Secondly, the connection automatically excludes a full-fledged arched roof structure - “self-cleaning” of snow. Thirdly, there is rarely a lot of space at home, so we are talking about building a compact structure at the dacha. Let's figure out how to make a canopy for your house with your own hands.

SEE ALSO…
Shed design for a private home - 235 beautiful ideas in the photo section on Houzz

Support pillars
Support posts for a summer cottage canopy can be made of metal or wood. But for the structure to be stable, concrete supports will be needed. For this purpose, they dig holes with a drill to the depth of freezing of the ground - usually a meter is enough, but somewhere one and a half will be needed. Then a sleeve made of roofing felt is inserted. Half a bucket of sand is poured over the bottom of the hole, compacted, a little concrete is poured into which a metal support is inserted. The stand is leveled vertically and poured with concrete level with the ground or slightly higher. To do this, you need to make formwork, which will fix the sleeve.

It is not advisable to lower wooden posts into the ground, even if you wrap them in two layers of roofing material and cover them with mastic. They will still rot. It is better to make “concrete legs” for them - that is, to form formwork around the dug holes - so that after pouring the concrete you will get “piles” about 50 cm high. You need to lay brackets with a reinforcing leg in fresh concrete and use them to secure the beam.

Advice: If groundwater appears in the hole, put a thick polyethylene bag over the roofing material sleeve.

Is the frame made of metal or wood?
First, let's determine what materials will be needed for the canopy. The easiest way is to make the entire frame from wood (posts, frames, rafters, sheathing, if necessary, a counter-lattice), fastening it with bolts and self-tapping screws. A wooden canopy attached to a house can last for several decades without repair - provided that dry boards were used and laminated timber was used.

You can even build a canopy at your dacha with your own hands from metal - you will need welding, and if you want bending, then you will also need a pipe bending machine. It is also permissible to combine wooden strapping and other elements by placing them on metal supports (welded “ears” for bolts). If you plan to make the canopy at your dacha with your own hands wide and the height allows, it is preferable to choose single-pitched triangular or semi-arched trusses - this design is more reliable, although more expensive.

How to make a drawing
How many support posts are required and what cross-section depends on the size of the canopy, the weight of the trusses, rafters and roof, snow load, and wind strength in the region. For calculations, you can use special programs, tables and calculators. Look on construction forums to see how you can make a canopy: there are photos of correctly executed structures and drawings. This is a very important point, since a lack of racks threatens deflection, and an excess - additional costs.

In order to make a small (2-3 m) canopy attached to the house, two support posts will be enough, and for a six-meter one you will need three or four in increments of 120-150 cm. The same applies to rafters: there is no point in laying a powerful one under polycarbonate timber/thick metal profile and frequent steps, and under the tiles - a must.

Most often, metal structures are used as support posts - pillars (pipes) 100x100, 80x80, 40x100, 40x40 mm (the last two types are also used for rafters). When planning how to build a canopy, it is not necessary to choose the same supports: some can be basic, thicker, while others can be additional, thinner.

Wooden beams 150x150, 140x140 mm are used for racks and 150x50 mm - for rafters, 90x90 mm - for jibs. It is very important that the pillars are positioned strictly vertically. The pipes can later be covered with wood (see country house canopy in the photo) or covered with brick.

If there is a lot of snow on the roofs at the dacha, racks are preferable to rigid fastening to the wall of the house. And due to movements of the foundation of the house, the attachment point may suffer.

Advice: If you concrete the site before making a canopy at the dacha, immediately lay the openings for the posts. And think about draining water from the roof - will it go under the canopy? All wood should be treated with a water-repellent compound and an antiseptic.

SEE ALSO…
Porch Canopy - 346 Beautiful Ideas in the Photos Section on Houzz

Finally, you can make a separate country canopy, but next to the house - as in the photo. In this case, water from the slope of the canopy will flow into the gutter on the house.

The standard width of the metal profile sheet is 90 and 110 cm; take this into account to avoid overspending. The length of the profile is up to 12.5 m. Ideally, it is better to do without transverse joints and choose sheets that match the length of the slope plus 5 cm for the cornice. Of course, it is inconvenient to work with a sheet longer than 4 m, but a canopy at the dacha attached to the house is unlikely to be wider. When choosing what to make a canopy from, in extreme cases, you can put two sheets in length.

Advice: The metal profile can be marked GOST or TU; the first standard is more reliable. The main sign of a poor-quality coating is microcracks, paint peeling off at the edges, and scratches; this material will quickly begin to rust

How to lay a metal profile?
In windy weather, it is better not to make awnings from metal profiles - there is a risk of bending the sheets or flying off the roof with them. Sheets of corrugated sheets are lifted along wooden joists. The roof under the metal profile must be flat, otherwise the sheet will bend. It’s not worth walking on them, at least not on the waves. In addition, craftsmen advise cutting the sheet not with a grinder, but with scissors - there is less chance of corrosion.

If you are not going to cover the canopy to the house with walls and insulate it in the future, there is no point in waterproofing it. If you're getting ready, don't forget about the film. The steeper the roof slope and the higher the profile wave, the wider the sheathing pitch can be made, and vice versa.

DIY polycarbonate canopy
Home awnings made from polycarbonate with your own hands can be seen everywhere today. And this is no coincidence - the material is light, durable, covered on the outside with a protective layer from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, cuts and drills well, and does not break when dropped. In general, if you close your eyes to the aesthetics of cheap samples, it’s just some kind of miracle. But this miracle has its own nuances.
First of all, sheet polycarbonate can be monolithic, cellular and profiled (a rarity in our area).

SEE ALSO…
Polycarbonate Sheds and Roofs - 47 Beautiful Ideas in the Photos Section on Houzz

You should pay attention to the degree of transparency of the material. When attaching a do-it-yourself polycarbonate canopy to a house, owners often don’t think about it. And then it turns out that the sun “breaks through” the roof, it’s stuffy under it, and the car heats up.

How to cut polycarbonate?
Polycarbonate sheets are cut before installation. A 4 mm thick sheet can even be cut crosswise with a construction cutter/knife. If it is thicker, it is better to opt for a power tool - a jigsaw, grinder or circular saw with a disc for precise cutting (fine teeth). Just don’t forget to vacuum the channels afterwards - dust will accumulate in them. You can also cut with a hacksaw, but burrs will remain. For longitudinal cutting it is better to use a knife.

The ends of the plates must be covered with a sealed aluminum film on top and perforated tape on the bottom, and also with end profiles on top to prevent dust and moisture from getting inside. Otherwise, the polycarbonate of the dacha canopy will no longer transmit light. Since the lower end cannot be sealed to remove moisture, on an arched roof both ends are covered with perforated tape. Scotch tape is not suitable for covering the ends.

Since polycarbonate is a lightweight material, it is also better to make the frame of the dacha canopy lightweight. In addition, a private house can be supplemented with a canopy in the form of a semi-arch. Before purchasing the material, check the permissible bending radius of the slabs - make sure that it is suitable for your arched structure.

Each manufacturer has a calculation table for lathing under cellular polycarbonate. The logic is simple - the thicker the sheet, the wider the sheathing pitch. In a simplified form (without taking into account the slope, etc.) it is estimated as follows: if the sheet thickness is 6 mm, then the pitch is 60 cm, if it is 8 mm, then 80.

Please note that in places where polycarbonate is rigidly connected to trusses or racks, hail can damage and damage the material. This does not happen under locking profiles, since the sheet in the profile is raised above the metal, and there will be no hard impact. So if the distance between the trusses is 1 m, the polycarbonate needs to be cut and a locking profile installed on each one.

Important: The protective film from below is removed at the beginning of work, and from above - after the canopy for the dacha is ready. Don't forget about the film - after a couple of months under the sun it will be difficult to remove it. By the way, you need to store polycarbonate by laying the sheets up with the UV-protected side up.

Have you long dreamed of creating a cozy place in your own garden, but are not yet ready to build a full-fledged gazebo? This means that one of the modern types of canopies will be ideal for you: wooden or plastic, with a reliable roof or one through which all the night stars are visible. Add a little textiles and imagination, and such a budget building will look no worse than a real summer cafe!

Moreover, building a canopy with your own hands today, with all the abundance of construction and finishing materials, is not at all difficult. The main thing is to decide for what specific task it is needed - for a car or summer get-togethers with friends, a swimming pool or just a bench, and choose the appropriate material. And our photo instructions will help you consider the whole process in detail and become well versed in this matter.

First, let's watch a video review of the most modern, original and stylish canopies that you can easily make yourself:

Preparing the base for different types of soil

First of all, when arranging a canopy, you need to take care of a solid foundation for the canopy. If you don’t want a strong gust of wind or a spring thaw to damage the strength of the entire structure, then you need to approach this issue carefully.

So, a lot depends on what kind of soil you have on your site. Moreover, you need to consider not just the ground anywhere, but exactly where the canopy will stand. The fact is that literally plus or minus two meters, and there may already be a completely different composition.

The depth of drilling under the foundation posts depends on whether your soil is heaving or not. It should always be no less than the freezing depth. This is necessary so that while the ice inside the ground melts and the soil “moves” a little, the racks will remain in place.

This is the whole secret, i.e. how to make a canopy on unstable soil: the posts will end below the freezing depth level, and the frame will not warp. In Russia, the standard freezing depth is often more than 2 meters, and therefore the racks are installed 2.30-2.50 meters into the ground. In special illustrations, the freezing depth is marked as H:

But, if we are talking about non-heaving soil (it is clear from the name that it “does not lead”), then it is advisable to make a foundation in the form of concrete or brick pillars to the depth of the plant layer. Those. not deep.

Additionally, backfilling with coarse sand or small pebbles, which it is advisable to protect with geotextiles, helps to reduce the severity of frost heaving of the soil. By the way, if it so happens that you installed the pillars higher than the freezing depth of the ground, then over time the structure will become skewed, but this can be easily corrected by wedging and jacking up the sagging sides.

Choice of canopy material: wood, stone or plastic?

The stronger and more solid the material, the more reliable the canopy will be, and the more expensive it will be. The more fragile and lighter the frame, the cheaper it is. We would advise you to look for a “golden mean”, but a lot really depends on what exactly you expect from this building.

So, the most reliable and strong canopy will be made of brick, a timber canopy is similar to it, and metal, forged and plastic structures are built that are more lightweight and elegant.

Cozy wooden canopy made of boards and logs

Wooden canopies, which have a wide choice of colors and textures, quite often turn out to be quite durable, although wood is susceptible to moisture and fungus. The whole secret here is in the correct preparation of the wooden canopy, treating it with antiseptics and special paints and varnishes for an open atmosphere. Plus, many types of wood themselves are able to perfectly withstand nature (for example, larch).

A canopy and timber or log house always looks quite solid and expensive, especially if it continues with the main house. But it is not easy to build, and it will need to be maintained every year. And at the same time, wooden racks are still fire unsafe, less resistant than stone ones, and require systematic treatment with antiseptic and fire-resistant mixtures.

But such canopies are easy to install, because they do not require welding, which not everyone knows. But anyone can assemble a canopy using bolts and anchors like a regular construction set.

In addition, lumber is cut and sanded quite easily. True, if you prefer arched canopies, then making them from wood is quite problematic. After all, bending a wooden beam is not easy, although it is possible to assemble an arc from individual wooden blocks.

So, to build a wooden canopy you will need timber for the posts - 70x70 mm, for attaching to the wall - 40x60 mm, and for floors - 40x60 mm. In general, the timber for the racks, of course, can be smaller in size if the area of the canopy itself is very small (although we do not recommend doing this). The minimum value is 40x40 mm, and when the area exceeds 5 m2, then from 60x60 mm.

A columnar foundation is well suited as load-bearing supports for a wooden canopy. The installation process itself will look like this:

Once the posts are ready, secure the rafter beams at the desired height. It is convenient to make them from 150x50 mm boards, while checking the correctness with others using even boards:

Now install the rafters. You need to place them in increments of up to 1 meter (less is better), and take 150x50 mm for the boards themselves. Attach the rafters to the supporting posts and beams with bolts, and simply cut off the excess protruding parts.

So that later there is at least some shadow from the canopy, make a thin sheathing of 5x5 cm bars and secure them with self-tapping screws. And fasten 30x100 mm frontal boards around the perimeter of the roof. If desired, install your favorite roofing material on the sheathing:

This is what the final canopy should look like:

Now let's demonstrate all this theory in practice. In this project, the master used a trick and created from the sheathing and rafter legs one smooth and flat surface for the future translucent coating.

How did he do it? He simply made cuts in the rafters:

If you decide to attach a canopy directly to the house, you can make it semi-closed, for example, with a trellis under a grapevine:

Here's how to build such a canopy:

Step 1. Let's start with the vertical posts, for which we need to prepare the foundation. The racks must be installed at the interval of the canopy rafters. Make a mark and drill several holes with a drill, from a meter to a meter and a half deep.
Step 2. Insert roofing felt sleeves into the resulting holes, and into them - racks of steel pipes. Align them.
Step 3. Pour concrete into the sleeves and prepare the elements of the wooden structure.
Step 4. Sand the boards, treat them with an antiseptic and drill holes for future fasteners. 150x50 boards were used in this project.
Step 5. Now you need to make grooves in the places where the rafters are installed, and screw the boards themselves both to the house and to the vertical posts. Use nuts, washers or long studs for this purpose.
Step 6. Let's move on to making the ramp. The angle of inclination will need to be calculated in advance, taking into account the installation feature of the roofing material, the snow load in your region and whether snow will fall from the main roof of the house. The greater the risk that the snow cap will break through the canopy, the steeper it should be.
Step 7. Install rafters, at least two meters long, and nail them. Make the sheathing.
Step 8. Now you can lay the roofing covering - the one you chose initially. Of course, when it comes to a house, they don’t make a roof that is too steep due to the high consumption of materials, but for a canopy it won’t take much of it, and changing the angle of inclination will not play a decisive role.
Step 9. Cover the open ends of the rafters with clapboard or fascia board, and attach the drain directly to it.
Step 10. We cover the open ends of the rafters with a front board made of clapboard, and subsequently install a drain on it.
Step 11. To install the trellis, you will need at least a primitive foundation. In this regard, the most successful would be a tape one, right between the racks. To do this, dig a trench with a bayonet, then pour 10 cm of sand and install the formwork. Next, lay the reinforcement and fill everything with concrete.
Step 12. Make a brick wall on top of the finished foundation, and install trellises made of 20x30 mm slats on it.
Step 13: Finally, cover the posts with decorative covers (siding and clapboard work too).

This canopy turns out to be quite cozy! After all, wood is closest to nature and always fits well into the landscape. Especially when it is massive and has retained its natural texture, not hidden under a layer of paint:

However, white paint is not bad at all when decorating such a canopy:

Note that wood itself is inexpensive, much cheaper than metal, but if durability is your priority, you can also purchase laminated veneer lumber. This type is made from several layers of wood at once, and therefore it has a more complex geometry, increased strength and price.

A good-quality brick canopy: in harmony with the architecture of the house

As we have already said, a brick canopy is considered an excellent option in terms of reliability, stability and durability. It doesn’t need to be painted or otherwise looked after every year; it’s built once and that’s it. At the same time, such a canopy looks environmentally friendly, aesthetically pleasing and is absolutely not subject to fire.

A brick canopy always fits well into the appearance of a house, no matter what material it is built from. But such racks require a reliable foundation (usually concrete), which will further increase costs. See how these pillars are built:

When the foundation is ready, proceed to laying the pillars, while reinforcing each row with a mesh. It is important to lay the bricks so that the seams do not match, and fill all voids with mortar. To make the pillars themselves even, a rope is pulled between them for convenience.

Cold and refined metal: forging and profiles

Forged metal makes the most “weightless” and elegant canopies:

Forged metal is durable, reliable and environmentally resistant. Such canopies are always made to order, where you can add any decorative elements, even make a family coat of arms visible! The forged structure will not only decorate the site, but also give it exclusivity.

What to make a reliable canopy roof from?

There are so many roofing coverings today that it’s dizzying, and you can easily use absolutely all of them to decorate the roof of your shed. Let’s take a closer look at those materials that you may have been afraid to tackle. But they make the best projects!

Glass and polycarbonate: translucent structures

Today, quite a lot of offices and hotels decorate the facades of their buildings with large glass canopies over the entrance. So this space becomes both more comfortable and safer, and the glass itself gives the building a tangible feature of the desired style. If you like this idea, then why not implement it on your own site?

You need to choose durable glass - one that will not break into small pieces if something hits the roof. Therefore, both tempered glass and laminated glass, otherwise called triplex, are suitable for this. In this, several sheets of hardened glue are connected with transparent glue. It is almost impossible to break!

Here is a very interesting video of the installation of such a canopy for a residential building:

Look how light and airy canopies with translucent coating look:

If you skillfully play with color, it is not difficult to achieve the feeling of a real sunny day even in the cloudiest weather. And in the dark season, cozy lighting will be provided by a built-in lamp, which is attached directly to the arched structure:

Let's go through the construction of this shed step by step. Its parameters: 110 cm height and 3.5 meters width:

Step 1. Set up the porch. To do this, we first pour a concrete base, and then build a frame made of timber, 150x150 mm.
Step 2. Coat the timber with a colorless antiseptic, which will protect the wood from insects and fungus.
Step 3. Now we lay the floor on the porch and finish the steps.
Step 4. We proceed to the construction of a canopy over the porch. To do this, you will need to weld a metal frame and cover it with wooden boards (preferably made of larch).
Step 5: Paint a protective glaze over the canopy, steps, and porch sides to also highlight the visible wood grain. It is important that neither the wooden frame of the canopy nor the steps are afraid of precipitation and temperature changes.

There are more interesting and unusual ways to construct a canopy. For example, German students managed to create shadows using drones! Their system is autonomous and is called Cyber Physical Macro Materials.

The essence of the idea is that drones independently select places that need to be protected from the scorching sun (for example, with people on vacation), and rally for this purpose. It looks simply amazing, and savvy summer residents are trying to repeat something similar using cheaper and more readily available materials.

For example, by installing umbrellas or large plastic crafts on a long cane that is easily stuck into the ground, and creating rest areas in the country simply by a cluster of such umbrellas, easily regrouped in the right place. Or they hang such elements in the air on thin ropes attached to the frame of the canopy.

It is difficult to overestimate the importance of a canopy as a country house building. This simple structure will protect from the scorching sun in the summer heat, and in inclement weather it will block the rain. The answer to the question: how to make a canopy yourself is very simple - you just need to install supports and secure a roof made of one material or another to them. Even beginners can handle the work, and more experienced craftsmen can turn this structure into a real decoration of the site.

What types of canopies are there - types and classification

Before you build a canopy at your dacha with your own hands, you need to decide what purposes it will serve, and also whether it will be used year-round or only as a summer building. The choice of material and construction method depend on the answers to these questions.

All awnings are divided into two broad categories:

Capital structures, thoroughly built from durable and wear-resistant materials.
Temporary summer buildings that are easy to install and just as easy to remove at the end of the season.

According to the type of construction, sheds can be free-standing or in the form of an extension to the house. Free-standing structures are often used as outbuildings, to protect car parking areas from rain or to store firewood. They can also be adapted as a gazebo. Awnings attached to a house are often made on the south side to block the windows from the sun. Such extensions are also good as a summer terrace.

The supports for the structure are usually wooden beams, metal pipes or corners. The main difference in DIY country canopies is what materials are used directly for the roof. This can be slate, corrugated sheets, polycarbonate, tiles, fabric, tarpaulin and even such exotic materials as reeds.

This design will serve as a resting place

Capital structures for a personal plot

A building designed to last for many years must be made with the utmost care. The support pillars are firmly concreted and connected to the roof so that they can withstand any weather. What is the best material to use to make a permanent canopy in the yard? The answer is obvious - from materials that are designed for a long service life.

Canopy made of corrugated sheets - reliable protection

Parking for cars with corrugated roofing

Corrugated sheeting is ideal for making canopies. Since this material does not transmit light, it is used where shading is required. At the same time, do not forget that in summer the metal heats up in the sun, so metal profiles are not used for extensions on the south side of the house, so as not to get even more heat instead of coolness. Sheds made of corrugated sheets are ideal for protecting car parking areas, storing woodpiles and other household needs.

Metal profiles are used for capital structures

Steel pipes or angles are usually used as a frame, which ensures the greatest strength of the structure. Before making a canopy from a metal profile, it is necessary to study the parameters of these materials.

Corrugated sheets vary in sheet thickness and corrugation height. The higher both indicators are, the stronger the roof will be. For a canopy, it is better to use wall or load-bearing corrugated sheeting with a sheet thickness of at least 0.8 mm and a corrugation height of 35 mm or more. Wall material with a thickness of 0.5-0.7 mm is too soft for these purposes, and the roof will inevitably leak.

Drawing of a canopy for corrugated sheets or slate

Slate canopy - traditional solution

An alternative to a structure made of corrugated sheets can be a slate canopy. The undoubted advantage of a slate roof is that it not only provides deep shade, but also does not get too hot in the sun. Due to these properties, house extensions are often covered with slate. The disadvantages of this type of coating include the large weight of the structure, so the supports must be made strong and stable.

Slate is produced in different sizes, wavy and flat. To build a canopy for a house, as a rule, corrugated slate is chosen so that, in case of rain, moisture does not linger on the roof.

Polycarbonate canopy - a modern approach

Considering various canopy ideas for a summer cottage, home craftsmen are increasingly turning their attention to polycarbonate structures. Using this material you can create very beautiful, airy structures that let in sunlight. Polycarbonate canopies are often used to decorate terraces near houses and canopies over entrance doors. Due to its low weight, polycarbonate can easily cover large areas, for example, completely covering a yard or making a protective roof over a swimming pool.

Polycarbonate bends easily, which is why sheds with arched roofs are often made from it. Sheets of this material have a standard length of 6 or 12 meters, which is usually sufficient for the manufacture of even large-scale structures. A special connecting profile is used to connect sheets.

Canopy for the house: polycarbonate transmits light well

The popularity of polycarbonate canopies deserves to dwell on their manufacture in more detail. Supports for such a structure are installed using a 35x35 or 40x40 metal corner for the racks and a galvanized profile for the floors. Installation work will be greatly facilitated if the roof size corresponds to the standard sheet size.

To attach polycarbonate to the base you will need:

polycarbonate;
end profile;
connecting profile if the roof consists of several sheets;
self-tapping screws 40x60;
thermal washers;
core drill for making holes for fastenings;
drill, screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver, tape measure, fine-toothed file.

Before you build a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, you need to study photos of ready-made options, instructions for their manufacture and drawings. Only after all the stages of work become clear can you begin installation.

Scheme of an arched polycarbonate canopy

Construction sequence:

The support posts from the corner are concreted into the ground.
Install the profile or finished arches on the roof.
The polycarbonate is laid in place. At a distance of 4 cm from the edge, holes are drilled with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the thermal washers.
A thermal washer is inserted into each hole and the sheet is fixed with self-tapping screws, after which the fastening points are covered with lids from the thermal washers.
An end profile is mounted at the ends to prevent moisture and debris from entering the internal cavities of the sheet.

Canopy made of metal tiles - a unified approach to the roof

Modern metal tiles look very attractive. The house and the shed look especially good if they are made in the same style and covered with the same roof. Typically, tiled canopies are made over the porch or near the house as a summer terrace.

It is best to use a material with a metal base thickness of at least 0.5 mm. Thinner shingles are cheaper, but they don't last long. Metal tile sheets have a standard size of 2200x1180 mm, this must be taken into account when designing the roof.

The tiles are laid on a wooden sheathing. The pitch of the beams in the sheathing is made equal to the pitch of the wave on the sheet. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern through one wave. Each subsequent sheet is laid overlapping the previous one.

Stylish tiled ensemble

Summer temporary awnings for a summer residence

Often at the dacha there is a need to make a temporary canopy from rain or sun. In this case, the simplest and most inexpensive materials come to the rescue, for example, tarpaulin or thick fabric. At the end of the season, such a structure can be easily stored until next year.

Canopy made of tarpaulin or fabric

Tarpaulin is perfect for a temporary summer canopy for a country house. It equally blocks both precipitation and the scorching sun. The tarpaulin is sold with ready-made holes and metal eyelets for fastenings.

In order to make a tarpaulin canopy for the house, it is enough to attach a 50x50 mm block to the wall under the roof using dowels. The length of the bar is selected based on the size of the future awning.
Having retreated the width of the tarpaulin, two wooden posts are dug into the ground with a height slightly less than the distance to the beam under the roof.
Between the pillars and the wall of the house, three support slats are fastened with self-tapping screws so that a roof square is formed.
The edge of the tarpaulin is tapped with a construction stapler to the underside of the beam on the wall of the house, and then additionally pressed with a narrow strip and self-tapping screws. The free edges of the fabric are tied with strong twine through the eyelets to the support rails.

The tarpaulin is easy to attach thanks to the eyelets

This design can be significantly reduced in cost by making a temporary canopy over the house from ordinary film. To do this, take the thickest film sheet, at least 150 microns thick. The edges of the canvas are wrapped around the support rails and secured with a construction stapler. Obviously, the service life of such an awning is short, but it is quite capable of serving throughout the summer.

From the film you can build a temporary canopy over the table from the rain

Fabric awnings and awnings are more often used in southern regions, where protection from the sun rather than from rain is important. The fabric creates a pleasant diffused shadow and allows fresh air to pass through well. There are special awning fabrics with acrylic, polyester, and Teflon impregnation. They are strong, durable, and easy to clean from dirt. A fabric canopy is constructed in the same way as a canvas canopy.

Fabric awnings serve as decoration and provide protection from the sun

Unusual canopy made of reeds

To give the site a southern flavor, you can install a canopy made of reeds instead of a gazebo. This structure looks very exotic. All that is required for such a construction is wooden or metal racks, slats for roof sheathing and a sufficient amount of dry, even reeds.

Exotic reeds

Stages of creating a reed canopy:

The tops of the reeds with inflorescences are cut off, leaving only stems 1-1.5 m long. The dried reeds are tied into bundles with a diameter of 4-7 cm using soft wire.
For a square building, four support posts are installed, and on them - a two- or four-slope roof made of slats. The sheathing should be thick enough so that the reeds do not sag.
Cover the roof with a thick film, attaching it to the slats with a construction stapler.
Begin to lay the reeds from the lower edge of the roof so that the stems protrude 20-30 cm beyond the slats. The bundles are placed close to each other, connecting them together with flexible wire or rope. Additionally, strips of reeds are screwed in several places with self-tapping screws.
The second and subsequent rows of reeds are laid overlapping the bottom row.

The reed canopy creates cool shade and protects from rain thanks to the film backing. In autumn, the reeds are removed and stored in a dry shed so that they do not spoil.

There are a lot of ideas on what you can use to build a canopy at your dacha. Each owner will find a design to suit his taste and capabilities. You can also turn to professionals to get a finished project or completed construction.

Video: making a carport

Making a wooden canopy with your own hands is not difficult. It protects well from rain and sun, helps to cover the car from precipitation and increases living space. The popularity of garden canopies has grown greatly in recent years. This is due to the fact that making them has become even easier thanks to detailed instructions and recommendations from masters on the Internet.

Canopy structures

A canopy is a broad concept. That's what they call big number of different outbuildings. Sheds can be single-pitch or double-pitch, straight or multi-sided. And this is an incomplete list, since there are many more classifications and options for even the most demanding owners of country houses.

Such structures can be located in different parts of the site. Often, awnings are installed close to the house near the door or open veranda. Structures of this type are not initially planned when a house is built, but are subsequently completed by the owners if desired.

Built-in canopies are somewhat similar to the previous ones, but the difference is that they are initially included in the construction plan and are an extension of the house. These are mainly built for barbecue areas.

Sheds are also created separately from the house. Often such structures are built to store a car or temporarily store food and materials. They are also installed as an analogue of a gazebo for relaxation.

To create canopies, different materials are used both for supporting structures and for their covering and possible cladding. Mainly used for roofing metal profile or reeds, and for the base - wood. The use of “living roofs” adds originality to such structures. For example, the same reeds or grapes are the easiest wooden canopy to make. For a reliable base, you can take metal pipes.

Start of construction

First you need to prepare the necessary materials. Their list and quantity will depend on the type of canopy and its size. For example, you can take a free-standing canopy measuring 6 by 3 meters. To get started you will need:

After purchasing all the necessary materials, you need to mark the area on which the structure will stand. Need to draw rectangle 3 meters wide and 6 meters long. On six-meter sides you need to dig three holes for the main supports. Make them deep, about 20-30 centimeters deeper than the freezing layer of the earth.

Before installation in the pits, the upper parts of the supports must be prepared for attaching the beams. It won't be difficult to do this. To prepare you will need a grinder. You need to cut the end of the pipe in the middle by 100 mm. Bend one formed part 90 degrees, thereby creating a place for attaching the beam. In the standing parts, holes should be made for the bolts that will secure the beams.

You need to pour some crushed stone at the bottom of the holes. After this, lower the pipes and secure them with guy wires. Using a level you need to level the racks. It is necessary to take into account that one side will need to be made higher for water drainage. Then you can start preparing the solution. Cement, sand and crushed stone must be mixed in proportions - 1: 3: 4. The prepared solution must be poured into holes with exposed pipes in them. When the concrete has hardened a little, you need to fix the upper parts of the pipes by placing beams on them in previously prepared places. It is advisable to wait a few weeks for the concrete to harden well and gain rigidity.

In hot weather, concrete must be watered to prevent cracks from forming. In cold weather, you can cover it with a layer of soil. But it is advisable to build at a temperature of 20 degrees without precipitation. Then the conditions will be ideal. It is better to wait for the concrete to completely harden, but if necessary, you can begin the final part within a few days.

Installation of rafters and roofing

Basically, to save money, metal tiles, slate or profiled sheets are used. All of them are inexpensive and last quite a long time.

After the concrete has hardened, you can take on the rafters and roof. To do this you need:

18 squares of selected roofing material;
160−200 screws;
120 mm nails (pack);
6-meter gutters;
fasteners for gutters.

First you need to install the beams between the posts. Wooden beams can be used as beams. But it is worth noting that the wood will crack over time and its rigidity will decrease. Therefore, craftsmen recommend using two boards that are bolted together.

Then comes the installation of rafters and sheathing. Transverse boards are placed edgewise on top of previously concreted pipes. . Attached with regular bolts and nuts. After securing the boards, you need to install the cross boards.

When installing a roof, you must first install the bottom sheets. Then you need to lay out new layers on them one by one. If the final result is that the top sheet extends beyond the edges, then it must be cut with metal scissors or a grinder when using metal tiles.

Once the roof is installed, you need to start for installing rain gutters. It is necessary to cut 6 meters of the drain gutter with a grinder. Then attach the fasteners to the base with screws and install the gutter directly into them.

Building sheds is quite easy if you choose the right material and prepare properly.