LEDs don't like voltage fluctuations, that's a fact. They don't like it because LEDs behave differently from lamps or other linear devices. Their current varies nonlinearly with voltage, so for example, doubling the voltage does not double the current through the LEDs. This is why they overheat, quickly degrade and fail.

Most diodes used in cars have a built-in resistance that is designed for a voltage of 12 volts. But the voltage of the car’s on-board network is never 12 volts (except with a discharged battery), plus it is not nearly as stable as we would like. If you use inexpensive Chinese diode devices in a car without first stabilizing them, they will quickly begin to blink and then stop shining altogether.

So I encountered the same problem - the LEDs in the dimensions began to blink, since I was once too lazy to stabilize them.

There are many ready-made stabilizer circuits for 12-volt devices. Most often you can find the KR142EN8B microcircuit or similar ones on the shelves. This microcircuit is designed for current up to 1.5A, but for greater effect it needs to be switched on using input and output capacitors.

The standard circuit involves the use of 0.33 and 0.033 μF capacitors (if memory serves). But personally, I decided to switch it on using 4 capacitors: 470 µF and 0.47 µF at the input and, accordingly, 10 times less capacitance at the output. I don’t remember, but somewhere on the forums I came across just such an inclusion and decided to apply it.

So that all this could be easily implemented into the car, I decided to solder all the elements directly onto the chip.

Microcircuit with elements

Microcircuit with elements

In addition to the capacitors, two wires are soldered to the microcircuit, respectively the input and output. The mass will come through the microcircuit mount. The middle leg of the microcircuit is used only for the legs of the capacitors. I did not remove the wire from it, since it is integrated with the circuit body.
To ensure the strength of the entire structure, I decided to fill it all with glue, then heat-shrink it.

Microcircuits

Chip and heat shrink

Ready stabilizers

In a car you can attach it to the body via a self-tapping screw.

Attached stabilizer

The post does not pretend to be something super-mega-technological, but you never know who might find it useful :)

Connection diagram

Instead of KR142EN8B you can use L7812CV, the connection circuit is similar. If you look at the standard diagram and compare it with mine, the questions arise: “Why exactly such containers?”

Let me explain: The standard switching circuit only implies voltage stabilization, but does not in any way protect against (short-term) voltage sags, so electrolytes of sufficiently large capacity were introduced into the circuit to smooth out such sags.

In theory, of course, the battery in the car should act as a filter for voltage sags, but sometimes sags occur that the battery simply does not have time to catch. For example, when a spark is supplied to the spark plug, a considerable current passes through the coil, which perfectly drains the voltage in the on-board network.

It is known that the brightness of an LED depends very much on the current flowing through it. At the same time, the LED current depends very sharply on the supply voltage. This results in noticeable brightness ripples even with slight power instability.

But ripple is not scary, what’s much worse is that the slightest increase in the supply voltage can lead to such a strong increase in the current through the LEDs that they simply burn out.

To prevent this, LEDs (especially powerful ones) are usually powered through special circuits - drivers, which are essentially current stabilizers. This article will discuss circuits of simple current stabilizers for LEDs (on transistors or common microcircuits).

There are also very similar LEDs - SMD 5730 (without the 1 in the name). They have a power of only 0.5 W and a maximum current of 0.18 A. So don’t get confused.

Since when LEDs are connected in series, the total voltage will be equal to the sum of the voltages on each of the LEDs, the minimum supply voltage of the circuit should be: Upit = 2.5 + 12 + (3.3 x 10) = 47.5 Volts.

You can calculate the resistance and power of the resistor for other current values ​​using the simple Regulator Design program (download).

Obviously, the higher the output voltage of the stabilizer, the more heat will be generated at the current-setting resistor and, therefore, the worse the efficiency. Therefore, for our purposes, the LM7805 is better than the LM7812.

LM317

The linear current stabilizer for LEDs based on LM317 is no less effective. Typical connection diagram:

The simplest LM317 connection circuit for LEDs, which allows you to assemble a powerful lamp, consists of a rectifier with a capacitive filter, a current stabilizer and 93 LEDs SMD 5630. MXL8-PW35-0000 (3500K, 31 Lm, 100 mA, 3.1 V, 400 mW, 5.3x3 mm) is used here.

If such a large garland of LEDs is not needed, then you will have to add a ballast resistor or capacitor to the LM317 driver to power the LEDs (to suppress excess voltage). We discussed how to do this in great detail in.

The disadvantage of such a current driver circuit for LEDs is that when the voltage in the network increases above 235 volts, the LM317 will be outside the design operating mode, and when it drops to ~208 volts and below, the microcircuit completely ceases to stabilize and the ripple depth will entirely depend from container C1.

Therefore, such a lamp should be used where the voltage is more or less stable. And you should not skimp on the capacity of this capacitor. The diode bridge can be taken ready-made (for example, a miniature MB6S) or assembled from suitable diodes (U arr. at least 400 V, forward current >= 100 mA). The ones mentioned above are perfect 1N4007.

As you can see, the circuit is simple and does not contain any expensive components. Here are the current prices (and they will likely continue to decline):

Name	characteristics	price
SMD 5630	LED, 3.3V, 0.15A, 0.5W	240 rub. / 1000pcs.
LM317	1.25-37V, >1.5A	112 rub. / 10 pieces.
MB6S	600V, 0.5A	67 rub. / 20pcs.
120μF, 400V	18x30mm	560 rub. / 10 pieces.

Thus, by spending a total of 1000 rubles, you can collect a dozen 30-watt (!!!) non-flicker (!!!) light bulbs. And since the LEDs do not operate at full power, and the only electrolyte does not overheat, these lamps will last almost forever.

Instead of a conclusion

The disadvantages of the circuits presented in the article include low efficiency due to the waste of power on the control elements. However, this is typical of all linear current stabilizers.

Low efficiency is unacceptable for devices powered by autonomous current sources (lamps, flashlights, etc.). A significant increase in efficiency (90% or more) can be achieved by using.

Description of the nuances of assembling a 12 Volt voltage stabilizer for a car, a list of necessary parts, 3 circuit options. + TEST for self-test. We will analyze the TOP 5 questions on the topic and the TOP 3 soldering irons for boards.

TEST:

To understand whether you have sufficient information about car stabilizers, you should take a short test:

1. Why install a 12-volt stabilizer on your vehicle? a) The vehicle’s network produces an inconsistent voltage. This depends on the state of charge of the battery. The voltage ranges from 11.5 - 14.5 Volts. But LED bulbs only require 12 volts. To supply the required voltage, SN is installed.
   b) LED lamps operate at 18 Volts. In order for them to function when connected to a car, additional load has to be supplied through a stabilizer.
2. Why do LED light bulbs often burn out without a stabilizer? a) The main reason is a low-quality LED manufacturer.
   b) Due to surge voltage on them.
3. In what case will it be necessary to additionally connect an aluminum radiator to the stabilizer? a) If more than 10 LEDs are installed on the car.
   b) When installing LED lamps of different colors on the car.
4. How are LEDs connected? a) 3 LEDs are connected in series to a resistor, and then the assembled set is connected in parallel to the next LEDs.
   b) 3 LEDs are connected in parallel to a resistor, and then the assembled set is connected in series to the next LEDs.

Answers:

1. a) Depending on the state of charge of the battery, the LED lamps will receive a fluctuating voltage - from 11.5 to 14.5. That is why the MV is connected to the lamps - to obtain a constant voltage of 12 Volts (this indicator is needed for LEDs).
2. b) LEDs are not designed for voltage surges that come from the battery, so they soon burn out without a stabilizer.
3. a) If more than 10 LEDs are installed on a car, then it is advisable to equip the circuit with an aluminum radiator.
4. b) First, 3 LEDs are connected in series to a resistor, and then they take a new coupler and connect them in parallel to each other.

Car owners often install LED lighting on their cars. But light bulbs quite often fail, and all the created beauty immediately fades. This is because LED bulbs do not work properly if they are simply connected to an electrical outlet. For them it is necessary to use special stabilizers. Only in this case will the lamps be protected from voltage surges, overheating, and breakdown of important components. To install a voltage stabilizer on your car, you need to understand this issue in detail and study a simple circuit that you can assemble with your own hands.

Definition: CH 12 volt for a car is a small device designed to dampen excess voltage in a car coming from the battery. As a result, the connected LED lamps receive a constant load of 12 volts.

Selection of 12 V stabilizer

The car's on-board network provides power from 13 V, but LEDs need only 12 V to operate. That is why it is necessary to install a voltage stabilizer, which will provide exactly 12 V at the output.

By installing such equipment, it will ensure normal conditions for the operation of LED lighting, which will not fail for a long time. When choosing stabilizers, motorists are faced with problems, since there are so many designs, and they all work differently.

You should select a stabilizer that:

1. It will function correctly.
2. Provides reliable protection and safety of lighting equipment.

A simple 12 V voltage stabilizer with your own hands

If you have even minor skills in assembling an electrical circuit, then it is not necessary to purchase a voltage stabilizer ready-made. To make a homemade device, a person will spend 50 rubles or less; a ready-made model costs slightly more. There is no point in overpaying, since the result will be a high-quality device that meets all the necessary requirements.

The simplest but most functional stabilizer can be made with your own hands without much effort. It is very difficult to assemble a pulse device, especially for a beginner, and therefore it is worth considering linear stabilizers and amateur circuits for it.

The simplest 12 volt voltage stabilizer is assembled from a (finished) circuit, as well as a resistance resistor. It is advisable to use the LM317 chip. All parts will be attached to a perforated panel or universal printed circuit board. If you assemble the device correctly and connect it to your car, you can provide good lighting - the lights will stop blinking.

12V MV Parts List

To make a voltage stabilizer with your own hands, you should find or buy the following parts:

1. Board - 35 by 20 mm.
2. Chip LD 1084.
3. RS407 diode bridge. If this is not the case, then we select any small diode intended for reverse current.
4. Power supply with a transistor and two resistances. This equipment is needed to ensure that the end is turned off when the low or high beam headlights are turned on.

Three LEDs must be connected in series with a current-limiting resistor that equalizes the electric current. This set should then be connected in parallel to the next set of light bulbs.

How to make a 12-volt voltage stabilizer for LEDs in a car using the L7812 chip

To assemble a high-quality voltage stabilizer, you can use a three-pin DC voltage regulator, available in the L7812 series. This device will power not only individual light bulbs in a car, but also an entire strip of LEDs.

L7812

Components:

1. Chip L7812.
2. Capacitor 330 uF 16 V.
3. Capacitor 100 uF 16 V.
4. 1 amp rectifier diode. You can use a 1n4001 or a Schottky diode.
5. Heat shrink 3 mm.
6. Connecting wires.

Assembly order:

1. We slightly shorten one leg of the stabilizer.
2. We use solder.
3. We add a diode to the short leg, and then capacitors.
4. We place heat shrink on the wires.
5. We are soldering wires.
6. We put on the heat shrink and press it with a hair dryer or a lighter. It is important not to overdo it and not melt the heat shrink.
7. We supply power to the input on the left side, and on the right there will be an output to the LED strip.
8. We carry out a test - turn on the lighting. The tape should light up, its service life will now increase.

This is how you make a 12V voltage stabilizer with your own hands.

DIY 12 volt voltage stabilizer circuit for LEDs in cars based on LM2940CT-12.0

Also, to assemble a high-quality voltage stabilizer for a car, use the LM2940CT-12.0 circuit. We use absolutely any material as a body, with the exception of wood. If you plan to install more than 10 LED lamps in the car, then it is advisable to attach an aluminum radiator to the stabilizer.

Perhaps some have already had experience working with such equipment and will say that there is no need to use additional parts - we immediately connect the LEDs directly and enjoy the work. This can be done, but in this case the light bulbs will constantly be in unfavorable conditions, and therefore will soon burn out.

The advantages of all the above DIY 12V voltage stabilizer circuits are ease of assembly. To assemble a stabilizer, you do not need to have any special skills. But if the provided pictures only cause bewilderment, then you should not try to assemble the circuit with your own hands.

It is also important to know 3 nuances on how to assemble a 12 volt voltage stabilizer with your own hands

1. It is advisable to connect LEDs through a current stabilizer. In this way, it will be possible to balance the fluctuations in the electrical network, and the car owner will not worry about current surges.
2. The power supply requirements must also be observed, since, in this way, your self-assembled stabilizer can be correctly adjusted to the electrical network.
3. It is advisable to assemble a unit that will provide decent stability, reliability and stability - the stabilizer should last for many years. That’s why you shouldn’t cheap out on components – buy them in good electronics stores.

How to avoid 3 mistakes when soldering a circuit

1. Before starting all soldering work, be sure to select the most suitable soldering machine for assembling the microcircuit. The old one lying at home or in the garage is suitable only for experienced people, but a beginner will ruin the board, unable to cope with the power. The most suitable voltage range for connecting boards and wiring is 15-30 watts. We don’t use more power, otherwise the board will burn out and you’ll have to start all over again with new parts.
2. Before you start connecting parts by soldering, make sure that the circuit is well cleaned. For high-quality processing, a simple composition is used - any soap is mixed with clean water. Afterwards, a clean napkin is dipped into the prepared solution and the board is wiped very efficiently over the entire surface. If there are traces of soap left on the metal, wipe them off carefully with a dry cloth. Quite dense deposits are often noticed on boards. To get rid of them, you will have to go to an electrical store and buy a special cleaning composition. The sellers will tell you everything you need. We process the area until a slight metallic sheen appears.
3. We place the contacts on the board in the correct sequence - first we work with small resistors, and then move on to large parts. If you first attach all the large parts, then the small parts will become very inconvenient to attach - large components will get in the way.

Don't neglect the advice. They will allow you to create a better connection, and hence the durability of the stabilizer.

TOP 3 soldering irons for circuit boards

To simplify the work of soldering the stabilizer, it is advisable to buy a high-quality soldering iron. The stores have units from good and trusted manufacturers that you should pay attention to:

1. Ersa is a German company. The product is very good and reliable, but expensive, and therefore not everyone can afford it for their home.
2. Chinese company Quick. The quality is excellent and the price is reasonable.
3. Luckey. The most budget option. Do not leave the device turned on unattended - it may cause a fire.

A 10 W soldering iron is enough to make a simple microboard. When purchasing, examine the handle - it should not heat up quickly. Wood is an ideal option. Plastic will quickly become hot, hard rubber is heavy, and therefore difficult to work with small parts.

It is advisable to choose a tip made of copper - it is easy to clean off carbon deposits after work. The stings come in different shapes and are sold in sets. This will not be useful for a beginner, but experienced people will find it convenient to use attachments of different configurations.

Voltage stabilizers for cars

Answers to 5 frequently asked questions about soldering

1. How long do you need to keep the heated tip on the part for good fixation?– 3 seconds is enough, if you hold it longer, the board will burn out.
2. How much solder should I add?– We make sure that it covers the part being processed. Sometimes a drop is enough.
3. Should the soldering look shiny or matte?- Brilliant.
4. Buy additional protective equipment?- Just glasses. If you have selected a good soldering iron, then you do not need to protect your hands.
5. What temperature can the microcircuit withstand?– 230 degrees.

Sometimes car enthusiasts need to limit the battery charging current, check a particular power source, or pass voltage through diodes. To accomplish one of these tasks, it makes sense to use a current stabilizer for LEDs with your own hands. You will learn more about what schemes exist for developing this device below.

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Circuits of stabilizers and current regulators

Current sources have nothing in common with voltage sources. The purpose of the former is to stabilize the output parameter, as well as a possible change in the output voltage. This happens so that the current level is the same all the time. Current sources are used to power LED lamps, charge batteries in cars, etc. If you have a need to make a simple pulse current stabilizer for 12V running lights for a car with your own hands, then we bring to your attention several diagrams.

On Krenka

To make a simple automotive pulse current stabilizer at home, you will need a 12v microcircuit. lm317 is perfect for these purposes. Such a 12 V lm317 voltage stabilizer is considered adjustable and is capable of operating with on-board network currents of up to one and a half amperes. In this case, the input voltage can be up to 40 volts, lm317 is able to dissipate power up to 10 watts. But this is only possible if the thermal regime is observed.

In general, the current consumption of the lm317 is relatively small - around 8 amperes, and this figure almost never changes. Even if a different current passes through the lm317 bank or the input voltage changes. As you can understand, the 12 V lm317 stabilizer for the car’s on-board network makes it possible to maintain a constant voltage on the R3 component.

By the way, this indicator can be adjusted through the use of the R2 element, but the limits will be insignificant. In the lm317 device, component R3 is the current driver. Since the resistance indicator of lm317 always remains at the same level, the current that passes through it will also be stable (video author - Denis T).

As for the lm317 bank input, the current on them will be 8 mph higher. Using the circuit described above, you can develop the simplest voltage stabilizer for a car's DRL. Such a device can be used as an electronic load device, a current source for battery recharging and other purposes. It should be noted that integrated devices with a current of 3A or less react quite quickly to various changes in the pulse. As for the disadvantages, such devices are characterized by too high resistance, as a result of which powerful components will have to be used.

On two transistors

Quite common today are stabilizers for a 12v vehicle on-board network using two transistors. One of the main disadvantages of such a device is poor current stability if changes occur in the supply voltage volts. However, this circuit for a 12v vehicle on-board network is suitable for many tasks.

Below you can see the diagram itself. In this case, the device that distributes the current is resistor R2. When this indicator increases, the voltage on this element also increases accordingly. If the reading is between 0.5 and 0.6 volts, component VT1 opens. When opened, this device will close the VT2 element, as a result of which the current that passes through VT2 will begin to decrease. When designing a circuit, you can use a Mosfet field-effect transistor together with VT2.

As for the VD1 component, it is used for voltages from 8 to 15 volts and is needed if its level is too high and the performance of the transistor may be impaired. If the transistor is powerful, then the voltage in the car network can be about 20 volts. It must be remembered that the Mosfet transistor opens when the voltage at the gate is 2 volts. If you use a universal rectifier to charge the battery or other tasks, then the work of the transistor and resistor R1 will be enough for you.

On an operational amplifier (op-amp)

The option of assembling a device with a special error amplifier for a car is relevant if you have a need to develop a device that operates over a wide range. In this case, R7 will perform the function of the current-setting element. The DA2.2 operational amplifier allows you to increase the voltage level in volts of the current-setting element. The DA 2.1 device is designed to compare the level of a reference parameter. Remember that this 3a device circuit requires additional power, which must be supplied to the XP2 connector. The voltage level in volts must be sufficient to ensure the functionality of the elements of the entire system.

A device for a car must be supplemented with a generator; in our case, this function is performed by the REF198 element, characterized by an output voltage level of 4 volts. The circuit itself is quite expensive, so if necessary, you can install a crank instead. To make the adjustment correctly, you should set the slider of resistor R1 to the upper position, and using element R3, set the desired current value 3a. To prevent excitation, components R2, C2 and R4 are used.

On a pulse stabilizer chip

In some cases, a device for a car must function not only in a wide range of loads, but at the same time have a high efficiency. Then the use of compensation devices will not be appropriate; instead, pulse elements are used.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with one of the most common MAX771 circuits; its features are as follows:

• reference voltage level - 1.5 volts;
• the efficiency factor at a load from 10 miles ampere to 1 ampere will be about 90%;
• the power indicator ranges from 2 to 16.5 volts;
• The output power reaches 15 watts (the author of the video is Andrey Kanaev).

What is the stabilization procedure? Components R1 and R2 are divisors of the circuit outputs. When the level of the divided voltage becomes greater than the reference voltage, the device automatically reduces the output parameter. When the process is reversed, the device will increase this indicator. You can get a working stabilized current source if the circuits are changed in such a way that the system as a whole begins to respond to the output parameter.

If the load on the device is not particularly large, that is, less than 1.5 volts, the microcircuit will function as a working stabilizer. But when this parameter begins to increase sharply, the device will switch to stabilization mode. Installation of resistor R8 is only necessary when the load level is too high and is more than 16 volts.

As for elements R3, it is current-distributing. One of the main disadvantages of this option is that the load drop across the above resistor is too high. If you want to get rid of this disadvantage, then in order to increase the signal, you need to additionally install an operational amplifier.

Conclusion

In this article we looked at several options for stabilizing devices for cars. Of course, such circuits can always be upgraded if necessary, helping to increase performance, etc. Keep in mind that if necessary, you can always use specially designed ICs as a regulator. Also, if possible, you can independently produce sufficiently powerful regulatory components, but such options are more relevant in order to solve certain problems.

As you can see, developing a circuit is quite a complex and painstaking task; you cannot just approach it without having the appropriate experience. Lack of certain skills will not allow you to get the desired result. To make such a diagram for a car with your own hands, you must carefully follow all the steps described above.

Video “Device for powering LEDs”

How to make a stabilizer at home to power lamps in a car or for other purposes - learn from the video (the author of the video is Ded Xin).

LED lighting is increasingly being introduced into our lives. Capricious light bulbs fail and beauty immediately fades. And all because LEDs cannot work simply by being plugged into the mains. They must be connected through stabilizers (drivers). The latter prevent voltage drops, component failure, overheating, etc. This article and how to assemble a simple circuit with your own hands will be discussed.

Stabilizer selection

In the on-board network of the car, the operating power is approximately 13 V, while most LEDs are suitable for 12 V. Therefore, they usually install a voltage stabilizer, the output of which is 12 V. Thus, normal conditions are provided for the operation of lighting equipment without emergency situations and premature failure.

At this stage, amateurs are faced with the problem of choice: many designs have been published, but not all work well. You need to choose one that is worthy of your favorite vehicle and, in addition:

• will actually work;
• will ensure the safety and security of lighting equipment.

The simplest DIY voltage stabilizer

If you have no desire to buy a ready-made device, then it’s worth learning how to make a simple stabilizer yourself. It is difficult to make a pulse stabilizer in a car with your own hands. That is why it is worth taking a closer look at the selection of amateur circuits and designs of linear voltage stabilizers. The simplest and most common version of a stabilizer consists of a ready-made microcircuit and a resistor (resistance).

The easiest way to make a current stabilizer for LEDs with your own hands is on a microcircuit. The assembly of parts (see figure below) is carried out on a perforated panel or a universal printed circuit board.

Scheme of a 5 ampere power supply with a voltage regulator from 1.5 to 12 V.

To assemble such a device yourself, you will need the following parts:

• plateau size 35*20 mm ;
• chip LD1084;
• RS407 diode bridge or any small diode for reverse current;
• a power supply consisting of a transistor and two resistances. Designed to turn off the rings when the high or low beam is turned on.

In this case, the LEDs (3 pcs.) are connected in series with a current-limiting resistor that equalizes the current. This set, in turn, is connected in parallel to the next similar set of LEDs.

Stabilizer for LEDs on the L7812 chip in cars

The current stabilizer for LEDs can be assembled on the basis of a 3-pin DC voltage regulator (L7812 series). The mounted device is perfect for powering both LED strips and individual light bulbs in a car.

Required components to assemble such a circuit:

• chip L7812;
• capacitor 330 uF 16 V;
• capacitor 100 uF 16 V;
• 1 ampere rectifier diode (1N4001, for example, or a similar Schottky diode);
• wires;
• heat shrink 3 mm.

There can actually be many options.

Connection diagram based on LM2940CT-12.0

The stabilizer body can be made from almost any material except wood. When using more than ten LEDs, it is recommended to attach an aluminum radiator to the stabilizer.

Maybe someone has tried it and will say that you can easily do without unnecessary troubles by directly connecting the LEDs. But in this case, the latter will be in unfavorable conditions most of the time, and therefore will not last long or will burn out altogether. But tuning expensive cars results in a fairly large sum.

As for the described schemes, their main advantage is simplicity. Manufacturing does not require any special skills or abilities. However, if the circuit is too complex, then assembling it with your own hands becomes unreasonable.

Conclusion

The ideal option for connecting LEDs is via. The device balances network fluctuations; with its use, current surges will no longer be a problem. In this case, it is necessary to comply with the power supply requirements. This will allow you to adjust your stabilizer to the network.

The device must provide maximum reliability, stability and stability, preferably for many years. The cost of the assembled devices depends on where all the necessary parts will be purchased.

In the video - for LEDs.