Soldering aluminum at home, technologies, methods

1. The simplest and most reliable way to connect or attach something to aluminum or its alloys is, of course, a bolt and nut or rivets. All other methods require some preparation, tools, special solders, fluxes for brazing aluminum, etc.

As practice shows, aluminum is generally not soldered in the usual way, with tin-lead solder, the reason for this is the oxide film, which forms almost instantly after cleaning the soldered surface.

2. Therefore, one of the ways to solder aluminum is - coating the surface, immediately after stripping, with a layer of molten rosin. Not the best, but after repeated attempts, rubbing the soldering point with a soldering iron tip, you can achieve satisfactory results.

3. Further, a solution of rosin in diethyl ether can be used for brazing aluminum. We clean the surface and immediately grease it with such a flux, and then sprinkle it with copper filings, which serve as an abrasive to remove the oxide film, and tin the soldering place with ordinary solder (tin-lead). After that, we solder a copper wire or something else to the tinned site.

4. The next technology for soldering aluminum is the use of a special solder for soldering aluminum and flux. Most of these solders are low-temperature, but their melting point is higher than that of tin-lead, in the range of 300-600 grams. C. The key to success is also good warm-up and for this use a gas torch or blowtorch.

High-temperature solders are used for soldering massive parts, they repair and restore parts made of aluminum and its alloys of any complexity (cars, motorcycles, etc.). The spike is very strong. In this way, pipes, for example, aluminum and copper, are soldered by inserting one into the other and soldering around. But, when soldering aluminum with other metals, make sure that the solder and flux are designed for one and the other metal.

The surface is cleaned and covered with a special flux, as in the previous cases, and when the solder melts, you can scrape the solder spot with the tip of a stainless steel knife (or a stainless steel brush) in order to better remove the oxide film. Thus, we tin the aluminum surface and solder everything we need to it.

This does not end with the methods of soldering aluminum at home. The electrochemical method can be applied.

5. We clean the surface and apply a few drops of CONCENTRATED copper sulfate solution to the soldering site. Then, we take a 5-12V power supply and a current of about 1 ampere (maybe more), connect a 4-5 Ohm resistance and a powerful one to the power supply. 5-10 W, and our fixture is ready. We calculate the load in such a way that the power supply unit does not burn out during operation, that is, approximately for a current of 1-5 Amperes.

Now we connect the aluminum billet to the negative pole of the power supply, and to the positive pole we attach a bare copper wire (you can twist it into a small flat spiral), which is then injected into a drop of vitriol solution so that the end does not touch the surface of the part. Everything is ready, turn on the power supply and wait a few minutes. The copper layer, as a result of electrolysis, will settle on the place for soldering. And then, wash off (but do not try to erase the copper), tinker, and solder the wires or terminal. This method, of course, is not suitable for soldering some massive parts, but it is suitable for contact with wires.

6. Alternatively, instead of a solution of vitriol, you can use hydrochloric acid: drop it into the place of soldering and then drive it with a copper drive along the contact pad. The deposition of copper is faster than in the first case, but one must be careful with the acid. And the place of soldering must be thoroughly washed off with water.

Connecting copper pipes: instructions and comparison of various installation technologies

So that the acid does not corrode the excess area, it can be sealed with tape or filled with paraffin, and the required area can be exposed. That. you can solder aluminum with copper and other metals, and the contact pads will have a beautiful, neat shape.

That's all, and if there are any other ways of soldering aluminum or additions to the above, write.

Victor Donskoy
www.masteru.org.ua

Photo of a lovely girl to grab your attention

Welding aluminum is not an easy task

High electrical and thermal conductivity of aluminum, very low weight, combined with excellent mechanical properties of its alloys, made this material simply irreplaceable in many areas of production. But with all its unique properties, this metal is very difficult to weld. The ability to weld aluminum with high quality is what distinguishes a highly qualified welder from an amateur welder.

There are two main methods of welding aluminum parts:

• MIG welding of aluminum by semiautomatic device
• Argon arc TIG welding of aluminum
  

Sometimes it becomes necessary to connect aluminum parts to each other, but at the same time there is no suitable welding machine or professional welder at hand, and the strength of the connection does not play a special role. In this case, the method described in our video instruction will come to the rescue.

You will need:

• Propane burner
• Aluminum brazing rods
• Surface degreaser
• Clamps for holding parts together

"Welding" aluminum without using a welding machine

Attention

In fact, this is certainly not welding. This method, perhaps, can be called soldering. Despite this, this method is quite suitable in the case when the parts to be connected will not experience strong loads, and not strong ones either. For example, for the manufacture of decorative items, souvenirs.

So, if you need to weld aluminum parts, use the services of professionals. Or buy a welding machine and become a professional yourself. Good luck!

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More about the complex: the connection of metal pipes for water supply, sewerage, metal frames

This article is about how to connect metal pipes by threading and welding, fittings and embossing of sockets when installing water pipes and sewers. I will not limit myself to plumbing and will touch upon, albeit in passing, the method of mounting metal frames for shelving, temporary buildings and greenhouses. So, let's go.

Cast iron

Currently, cast-iron pipes are used mainly for laying sewers, and then very limitedly: they have been seriously pushed aside by cheaper and lighter products made of PVC and polypropylene.

Cast-iron pressure pipes are even less popular: they are used for laying a water supply system with a small burial under conditions of significant load on the ground.

Socket connection with embossing

When installing a gravity drainage system, the connection of cast iron pipes is performed as follows:

The above diagram needs a few comments:

• A more durable graphite gland can be used instead of a cable (oiled or bitumen-impregnated organic fiber);
• Embossing is easy to make by flattening one end of a steel tube with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm and bending its end in the shape of a club;

Personally, I have always used a wide, sturdy screwdriver for chasing joints. It is less convenient, but takes up less space in the toolbox and is useful for many other plumbing work.

• To seal the socket, you can use clean cement, diluted with water to the consistency of very thick sour cream;
• The bell during operation must be rigidly fixed... Otherwise, it will loosen and leak.

Socket connection with rubber ring

This type of connection is typical for ductile iron pipes (made of ductile iron with spheroidal graphite). Due to the combination of corrosion resistance and the plasticity characteristic of steel, the material is in demand, among other things, for the installation of water pipes.

The assembly instructions for the joint are extremely simple: the smooth beveled end of the pipe is pressed into a bell with a rubber seal. Since with large pipe diameters, the assembly of the connection requires great effort, and the mass of the pipes is tens and hundreds of kilograms, loading equipment is often used for installation.

Previously, pipes made of gray cast iron with sockets for embossing were often used for the installation of water pipes. However, their embedding was carried out not with cement, but with lead.

Steel

Steel has also been replaced by modern polymers; however, in heating and hot water supply systems in apartment buildings, it is still in demand more than alternatives. The reason is simple: the enormous tensile strength of steel pipes allows them to withstand water hammer and other force majeure characteristic of central heating and heating mains without the risk of destruction.

Electric welding

The essence of the method is with the transfer of the electrode metal by an electric arc to grounded parts. At the same time, the edges of the pipes being welded are melted, and the seam due to molecular diffusion becomes one with them. Slag forms a coating on the weld surface that prevents metal oxidation and is cleaned after cooling.

Here's what the process looks like from a welder's point of view:

1. Both pipes are cut at right angles to the longitudinal axis. With a large wall thickness, the outer chamfer is removed;

Particularly thick-walled, large-diameter pipes require chamfering both internally and externally. They are also boiled on both sides.

1. On opposite sides of the pipes, two tacks are made, after which they are aligned along a common axis;
2. The seam is welded along the entire length. To do this, the electrode is brought to the part at an angle to the surface, so as to avoid sticking of the core. To obtain a sealed seam, it is necessary to prevent the metal from grasping in the welding area: the melt pool must be constantly visible under the electrode.

Gas welding

What does gas welding of steel pipes look like?

1. The burner is connected with hoses to oxygen (blue) and acetylene (white) cylinders;
2. The torch is ignited and adjusted in such a way that the area of ​​bright blue glow has a length of 1.5 - 2 cm;
3. The edges of the pipe are heated until the edges are melted, after which a welding wire is introduced into the blue area of ​​the torch. Its melt is blown away by the burner onto the seam, gradually filling it. And in this case, it is important not to let the molten bath grab: having melted the metal onto a cold pipe, you will not achieve tightness.

It is easier for an amateur to learn how to cook sealed seams with gas. Gas welding is forgiving of mistakes: the seam can always be reheated with a torch and brought to its melting point. It took me a few hours to complete the basic training, while your humble servant never learned how to weld hermetically with electric welding.

Fixed seams

Both gas and electric arc welding use two of the same techniques for welding fixed seams:

1. Mirror... It is placed on the back of the pipe, after which the seam is welded with mirror reflection control;
2. Window(operation suture). A U-shaped cut is made in the pipe; part of the pipe is bent; the seam is boiled from the inside; then the window is folded back to its original position and welded.

Carvings

How to connect metal pipes with threads?

In general, only two types of threads are used:

1. Short (5 strands) for turning parts;
2. Long, or squeegee (12 - 15 threads) - for the case when two fixed pipes are connected. In this case, a coupling and a locknut are sequentially driven from the long thread to the short thread of the attached part.

The tightness of the threaded connection is ensured by the winding laid along the thread. Plumbing uses in this role:

The thread is cut:

• With your own hands, using a die or die (several separate cutters in a common mandrel);

When threading, remove the outer chamfer by making an entry for the die, and lubricate the pipe with any oil (even diesel fuel or mining will do).

• On a screw-cutting lathe.

Galvanized pipes are assembled only and exclusively on threads. Welding burns out a layer of zinc in the seam area: steel melts at 1400 degrees, and zinc at 900 already evaporates. As a result, you get pipes without anti-corrosion coating at the price of galvanizing.

Compression fittings

The threadless connection of steel pipes is made with a conventional compression fitting with a union nut, a thrust washer and a rubber O-ring. Fittings are very useful on old ones that are dangerous to thread, in the absence of welding and the ability to completely replace old pipes.

Connection installation looks like this:

However, there are several nuances here:

1. It is advisable to clean up layers of old paint and rust on the pipe;
2. It will not hurt to remove the outer chamfer on it;
3. When assembling the connection, do not use lubricants. They will increase the risk of undocking in the event of an accidental jerk.

Wireframes

Frame structures do not require connections and are assembled on the so-called "crabs" - overlays tightened with ordinary bolts. "Crabs" are manufactured for all common sizes of round and shaped pipes. They can be used to assemble not only steel but also aluminum frames.

The greenhouse frame is assembled on "crabs".

Stainless steel

Corrugated stainless steel pipe is an excellent alternative to galvanizing, comparing favorably with it in ease of installation and flexibility. The tensile strength at a diameter of 15 mm reaches, according to Lavita, 210 atmospheres. Since all stainless pipes on the market have the same wall thickness - 0.3 mm - similar strength values ​​can be expected from products from other manufacturers.

Let's go back to connecting pipes with fittings. It is completely identical to using a compression fitting for a steel pipe: the cut-off end is inserted into the fitting with a loose union nut, and then tightened. Tools - a pair of adjustable or gas wrenches. The assembled connection is completely sealed and does not require maintenance; it can fit into a gutter or screed.

Manufacturers guarantee an unlimited service life for stainless steel pipes. Fitting seals, however, do not last forever: after 30 years, you or your children will have to attend to replacing the silicone rings.

Copper

The connection of copper pipes is carried out:

• Soldering;
• Compression fittings.

Let's take a look at both ways.

Soldering

The connection requires the following sequence of actions:

1. One of the pipes is expanded. The gap between the socket and the smooth pipe should be 0.1 - 0.15 mm. Alternatively, solder fittings with ready-made sockets are used;

1. The inner surface of the socket and the outer surface of the pipe are sanded with thin emery and coated with flux. When heated, it will cleanse copper from oxides and provide a reliable adhesion between it and the solder;
2. The pipe is inserted into the fitting;
3. The socket with the pipe inserted into it heats up to a temperature of at least 300C (for low-temperature solders). Usually a gas burner is used for this purpose, however, at the cost of a little more time, you can get by with a construction hairdryer: most models from decent manufacturers are capable of heating the air up to 550 - 600C;

1. The solder bar is introduced into the torch or hot air stream and touches the socket. Thanks to the capillary effect, the solder melt quickly fills the entire gap.

Compression fittings

These products, unlike fittings with rubber seals, tolerate heat well: tightness is ensured by soft copper rings.

How to connect copper pipes with fittings? Very simple:

1. A union nut and an O-ring are sequentially put on the pipe;
2. The pipe is inserted into the body of the fitting;
3. The union nut is tightened, pressing the pipe with a copper ring. Due to its plasticity, the metal fills in the slightest irregularities and ensures complete tightness of the connection.

Conclusion

I hope that my short review seemed to the reader quite informative. Some additional information can be explored by watching the video in this article. I look forward to your comments and additions.

Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Copper pipes are used for the installation of hot water supply, cold water supply, air conditioning, heating, and gas supply systems. They are expensive, but durable, plastic, and corrosion resistant. But in order for engineering communications from them to serve for decades, the connection of copper pipes must be done correctly.

We will tell you how the device of copper pipelines is made, which ensures the tightness of the transported medium or circulating heat carrier. Installation technologies are described in detail in the article presented for review. Based on our advice, the construction of the systems will be excellent.

To carry out the installation of internal pipelines in the house, you can choose a pipe made of plastic, metal-plastic or stainless steel. But only a copper analog is able to serve without problems and overhaul for more than half a century.

Correctly mounted copper piping systems in practice work properly throughout the entire service life that is assigned to a cottage or apartment building.

According to the statistics of accidents, the fittings and soldered joints used during installation turn out to be more reliable than the copper pipes themselves - if a breakthrough occurs in the system, then only on the wall of the pipe product

Copper pipes are not afraid of prolonged heat loads, chlorine and ultraviolet light. When freezing, they do not crack, and when the temperature of the internal environment (water, wastewater, gas) changes, they do not change their geometry.

Unlike plastic counterparts, they do not sag. This plastic is susceptible to expansion at high temperatures, with copper this does not happen by definition.

There are two drawbacks to tubular copper products - the high price and softness of the metal. However, the high cost of the material pays off with a long service life.

And so that the walls of the pipes are not damaged from the inside by erosion, filters must be installed in the system. If there are no contaminants in the form of solid particles in the water, then there will be no problems with the destruction of pipelines.

Pipe processing and welding requirements

When working with copper pipes, the following rules must be observed:

1. When installing cold water or hot water supply by soldering, the use of lead solder should be excluded - lead is too toxic.
2. The water flow rate should not exceed 2 m / s, otherwise the smallest particles of sand or other solid matter will gradually begin to destroy the pipe walls.
3. When using fluxes, after completion of the installation, the pipeline system must be flushed without fail - the flux is an aggressive substance and will contribute to the corrosion of copper tube walls.
4. When soldering, overheating of the joint must not be allowed - this can lead not only to the formation of a leaky joint, but also to a loss of strength of the copper product.
5. Transitions of pipes from copper to other metals (steel and aluminum) are recommended to be made using brass or bronze adapter fittings - otherwise, steel and aluminum pipes will quickly begin to corrode.
6. Burrs (metal beads) and burrs in the places of cutting must be removed - their presence leads to the formation of turbulent eddies in the water flow, which contributes to erosion and a decrease in the operating life of the copper pipeline.
7. When preparing copper pipes for connection, it is strictly forbidden to use abrasives - their remaining after installation inside the particles will damage the metal and form a fistula.

If, in addition to copper, there are pipes or elements made of other metals in the water supply or heating system in the house, then the water flow should go from them to copper, and not vice versa. The flow of water from copper to steel, zinc or aluminum will lead to rapid electrochemical corrosion of the pipeline sections from the latter.

Copper pipes are cut and bent without problems, even a novice craftsman can cope with their connection into a single pipeline system. You just need to select the appropriate tools and follow the instructions.

Due to the ductility and strength of the metal, copper pipes are easily cut and bent. Piping can be rotated using either a pipe bender or fittings. And for the device branching and connections with various devices, there are many parts made of heat-resistant plastics, brass, stainless steel and bronze.

About the interaction of copper with other metals

In most private houses, domestic water pipes are assembled from steel and aluminum pipes. Heating systems also include steel or aluminum radiators. Incorrect insertion into such a copper pipe layout is fraught with considerable problems.

According to building codes, in order to exclude corrosion processes in the pipeline from pipes of different metal, the flow of water must be directed to copper

The most optimal installation option is the use of pipes and devices exclusively made of copper and its alloys. Nowadays, bimetallic aluminum-copper radiators, as well as the corresponding fittings and shut-off valves, can be found without any problems. It is worth combining different metals only in extreme cases.

If overlap is unavoidable, then copper should be the final one in the chain of pipeline elements. It is impossible to rid her of the ability to conduct electric current.

And in the presence of even a weak current, this metal creates galvanic vapors with steel, aluminum and zinc, which inevitably leads to their premature corrosion. When installing a water supply system, it is imperative to insert bronze adapters between them.

Another potential problem is oxygen in water. The higher its content, the faster the pipes corrode. This applies to pipelines both from the same metal and made from different ones.

Often, the owners of cottages make a serious mistake, often changing the coolant in the heating system. This only leads to the addition of completely unnecessary portions of oxygen. It is best not to completely change the water, but to top it up when the need arises.

Mounting choice: detachable vs one-piece

In order to form a single pipeline system, you can use several methods of their articulation. Various plumbers use crimp and press fittings, welding or soldering. But before you start work yourself, you need to decide - be one-piece pipeline or detachable.

There are three installation technologies for connecting copper pipes:

• electric welding;
• soldering with a torch or electric soldering iron;
• pressing.

All these technologies can be applied in the formation of both detachable and one-piece systems. There is more a question of using a variety of fittings and adapters or rejecting them.

If the structure cannot be disassembled without destroying its individual parts, then it is considered one-piece - it comes out cheaper, but it is more difficult to repair it

If the pipeline system is needed detachable, as well as simpler in terms of repair and adding new elements, then the connections must be made detachable.

For this, fittings are used:

• compression;
• threaded;
• self-locking.

It is easier to make detachable connections yourself, you can even do without soldering. They do not require excessively high qualifications from the master.

However, such assemblies need constant inspection and tightening of the nuts in order to exclude leaks. Changes in pressure and temperature in the system lead to loosening of the fasteners. And from time to time it is recommended to tighten them.

If access to copper pipes is planned to be closed tightly with finishing or concrete screed, then it is best to connect them into an integral structure by soldering or welding. Such a system is more reliable, durable and tear resistant.

Do not thread on copper products. This metal is too soft in structure. When installing a detachable pipeline, all threaded connections must be made through fittings. The latter can be connected to a copper pipe by pressing or soldering.

Before making the connections, copper pipes are prepared in a special way:

Image gallery

Copper pipe is cut with a metal hacksaw or pipe cutter. The cutting line must be exactly at right angles

After cutting, the end of the pipe must be processed with a deburrer to remove the slightest irregularities and burrs.

The part of the pipe immersed in the socket prepared for brazing is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and degreased

The connection by low-temperature brazing is used mainly in the assembly of pipelines from soft pipes R 220. They withstand a pressure of 220 N / mm², which does not exceed the operating parameters in domestic heating and water supply networks

To perform low-temperature brazing, pipes and solder are enough to heat up with a standard blowtorch