A properly organized air exchange system in the house ensures:

• oxygen supply;
• removal of unpleasant odors;
• protecting rooms from fungus, dampness and mold;
• optimal sanitary and comfortable living conditions;
• nominal operation of boiler equipment;
• stable draft of wood-burning fireplaces.

The cost of installation of ventilation systems for a private house

No.	Name of works	Unit measurements	Cost, rub/unit
1	Installation of galvanized steel air ducts	m2	450,00
2	Insulation with self-adhesive material up to 5mm thick	m2	135,00
3	Insulation with self-adhesive material up to 10mm thick	m2	150,00
4	Insulation with basalt-based material with a thickness of 25 mm or more	m2	from 350
5	Flexible air ducts up to f254	m.p	140,00
6	Flexible air ducts f254-f400	m.p	170,00
7	Flexible air ducts insulation. up to f254	m.p	150,00
8	Flexible insulated air ducts F254-400	m.p	180,00
9	Ceiling diffusers "Armstrong" type	PC.	500,00
10	Diffusers in gypsum board ceiling	PC.	550,00
11	Grilles 4APN 600x600 Armstrong + adapter	PC.	850,00
12	Grids 4APN 600x600 gypsum + adapter	PC.	950,00
13	Other types of gratings	PC.	from 500
14	Throttle valve P<800	PC.	400-700
15	Throttle valve 800	PC.	800-1450
16	Throttle valve P>2000	PC.	from 1800
17	Valve DU, PD	PC.	from 1200
18	Duct fan	m3 area	2.5*L, m3/h
19	General industrial radial fan	PC.	from 6000
20	General industrial roof fan	PC.	from 5000
21	Central frame-panel, monoblock supply, supply and exhaust, exhaust units	installation	from 10% of installation cost
22	Plate silencer	PC.	from 1200
23	Water or electric heater	PC.	from 1500
24	Freon or water cooler	PC.	from 2000
25	Plate recuperator	PC.	from 4800
26	Rotary recuperator	PC.	from 6000
27	Glycol recuperator	PC.	from 8000
28	Channel air filter with filter material	set	from 800
29	Filtration units and installations	set	depending on composition and type
30	Adiabatic humidification section	PC.	from 6000
31	Water heater/cooler piping assembly	set	6000,00
32	Water heater/cooler piping assembly	set	from 25 000
33	Installation of a steam generator complete with steam distribution pipe, steam pipe, sensors	set	from 14000
34	Installation of automation (automation panel, sensors, switching)	set	from 20000
35	Corrugated wire laying	m.p.	from 80
36	Galvanized electrical tray gasket for automation system	m.p.	350,00
37	Commissioning works, Certification of ventilation systems, As-built documentation	conventional	5-15% of the estimated cost of the Object according to the section

All prices listed below are basic for Properties located in Moscow and Moscow Region.

The cost of work does not include rigging work.

The cost of work does not take into account increasing factors for work on weekends and holidays, as well as night work.

Prices for other types of work are subject to additional agreement.

A flexible system of discounts is provided depending on the scope of work.

The ventilation system in a private house is of three types:

• Natural (gravity). In this option, ventilation is carried out due to the influx of fresh air through its infiltration through leaks in window and door openings, special valves or simply open openings, and air removal (exhaust) occurs through natural ventilation ducts of the building design.
• Mechanical (forced). In this case, various exhaust and supply units are used, which make it possible to pre-prepare and move air over significant distances, and also serve a large number of rooms in the house at the same time.
• Combined. Such systems combine natural and mechanical ventilation.

Features of the arrangement and principle of operation of natural ventilation of a country house

The operating principle of natural ventilation is based on the generation of a lifting force in the ventilation shaft due to the difference in temperature inside and outside the room, as well as the difference in pressure.

How it works?

The temperature in the house is higher than outside, so the air in the rooms has a lower density, which creates a lifting force, it rises through the ventilation duct and goes outside. At the same time, a vacuum occurs in the room, which helps to draw in fresh air from the street through leaks in window and door openings, special valves or simply open openings. The air coming from the street has a higher density and lower temperature, due to which it is located below, and under its influence, light and warm air is forced out of the rooms.

The wind accelerates air flows, and with an increase in the difference in wind speed and temperature outside and inside the house, draft improves, as a result, the supply of fresh air into the house increases. If previously the places where it entered were leaks in doors and windows, modern window and door systems are practically airtight, so to organize natural air exchange in the house it is necessary either to install special valves (air infiltration valve), which are mounted in the walls and windows of the building, or to open the windows slightly.

Natural ventilation in the house has the following advantages:

• Quiet operation.
• No accidents. This ventilation does not depend on electricity supply and does not require regular maintenance.
• Economical. The movement of air masses is carried out without the use of additional equipment.
• Possibility of combination with air conditioning systems.

Disadvantages of natural ventilation at home:

• Dependence of draft on air temperature inside and outside the room. In summer, natural traction is practically ineffective.
• It is required to comply with the rules for organizing ventilation shafts.
• Extraneous noise from the street when windows are opened.
• Entry of untreated fresh air into the room (dust, etc.).
• The volume of air removed through the ventilation duct is insignificant.

Features and types of forced ventilation

Mechanical ventilation (or, as it is also called, forced ventilation) is an “artificial” system in which air exchange is carried out through the use of mechanical equipment - fans. It is used in private homes where natural ventilation is not effective or is not provided for in the construction at all, there is a swimming pool, a built-in garage, or there are increased requirements for the microclimate.

Advantages of this type of ventilation:

• stable operation regardless of weather conditions;
• possibility of preparing the supplied air to the room: filtration, disinfection, heating, cooling, humidification;
• ensuring stable draft of wood-burning fireplaces;
• the ability to maintain the required temperature and humidity in the house;
• removal of excess moisture in “wet” rooms - baths, showers, swimming pools.

There are two types of mechanical ventilation in the house:

• without heat recovery;
• with heat recovery, when the thermal energy of the exhaust air is used.

The second type of ventilation is the most modern and energy efficient. However, it is also the most expensive of all types.

Forced ventilation

Supply ventilation in a private house can be organized in natural (through open door and window openings) and mechanical (using air supply units) methods.

Supply mechanical ventilation consists of the supply unit itself, a network of air ducts (if necessary) through which air is distributed throughout the premises, and air distribution devices (grills, diffusers) through which air is supplied to the premises. The air handling unit includes (depending on the configuration):

• valve with external air drive;
• filtration section (there may be several of them in one installation);
• heating and cooling section;
• fan section;
• humidification section;
• noise reduction section.

Supply ventilation systems may vary:

• type:
  • channel, in which air exchange is carried out through channels and air ducts;
  • ductless, where the flow is supplied directly to the premises through holes in the walls.

• according to the method of equipment installation:
  • monoblock - all components are assembled in one compact case;
  • typesetting - consist of individual devices that are connected to each other.

Supply ventilation units have the following advantages:

• the ability to regulate the volume, temperature and humidity of the supplied air;
• the ability to filter and disinfect air to the required “purity”;
• the ability to move prepared air over long distances to all rooms of the house.

Exhaust ventilation

Exhaust ventilation in a private house is organized naturally, mechanically (with the help of fans) or both at the same time. When using a mechanical exhaust system, clean air enters the rooms through doors, windows, special valves, grilles, and exhaust air is removed outside through exhaust fans.

Exhaust mechanical ventilation can consist of either just one fan or a network of air ducts through which air moves, as well as air intake devices (grills, diffusers) through which air is removed from the premises.

The exhaust unit includes (depending on the configuration):

• valve with external air drive or check valve;
• fan section;
• noise reduction section.

Wall-mounted household exhaust fans are also used.

Advantages of mechanical exhaust ventilation:

• performance does not depend on weather conditions;
• the ability to move air over long distances;
• ability to regulate performance from 0 to 100%.

Ventilation using supply and exhaust systems

Modern supply and exhaust ventilation systems at home combine two functions at once - providing air supply and removing air. In such systems, air is supplied and removed through air ducts. Air distribution and air intake devices - grilles and diffusers - are located directly in the premises.

The most common are monoblock air handling units. They are small in size and have a low noise level. As a rule, such installations have a built-in automation system and remote wall-mounted control panels, which are small in size and can be placed in any convenient place. The model range and equipment of air handling units for a private home are different and allow us to satisfy the desires of the most demanding customers.

The main elements of supply and exhaust ventilation systems are:

• Grille or diffuser indoors. These are the final elements of the system, designed for proper air distribution.
• Air ducts. They are designed to supply and remove air. Air ducts form highways from shaped products and pipes; they differ in cross-sectional area, shape (rectangular, round) and the material from which they are made.
• External grilles for air intake and exhaust. Through these elements, air from the street enters the supply channel or is removed outside. They are aimed at protecting the system from rodents, birds, foreign objects and precipitation.
• Air valve. This is an element of the ventilation unit that prevents air from entering the system while it is in off mode. It can be equipped with electric heating, which prevents freezing of the sashes.
• Filters. The use of filters is aimed at protecting ventilated rooms and the system itself from dust, various insects and other small objects. There are filters with several cleaning classes. Regular cleaning and replacement of filters is recommended.
• Heater. The device heats the air supplied to the house. It can be either electric or water.
• Cooler. The device cools the air supplied to the house. It can be freon or water.
• Fan. It provides the necessary pressure for supplying and removing air from the system, as well as the required air flow. The fan can be mounted directly in the unit housing, in the air duct, on a special support or on the roof of the building. Fans are available in standard and soundproof versions.
• Humidifier. The device provides the specified air humidity. There are adiabatic, isothermal and ultrasonic humidifiers.
• Silencers. These elements prevent sounds from operating appliances from spreading through the air duct system. When air enters them, it passes through special barriers, as a result of which its intensity decreases.
• Control system. It can be automatic (operation is controlled by remote control) or mechanical (switch). Its main elements are the control unit, primary measuring instruments and actuators.

An improved air handling unit is called a recovery system. It provides effective air exchange in the house without loss of heat and cold. This design is equipped with a recuperator, which allows you to reduce the cost of heating, cooling and humidifying the air supplied to the premises by using (recovering) the heat, cold and humidity of the removed air.

Ventilation of house premises with gas equipment

If your country house has gas equipment, then increased requirements must be placed on creating air circulation in the rooms. Impaired traction can cause poisoning from combustion products. If combustion products enter a room, they can cause a deterioration in the person’s well-being, including loss of consciousness or complete cessation of breathing. For this reason, air circulation in a room with a heating device that runs on natural gas must be organized in accordance with the following technical requirements:

• Combustion products must enter the chimney from different levels (from a distance of more than 50 cm). With a single-level feed, a cut of the same height is installed in the channel.
• There are no more than two gas devices per chimney.
• The ventilation system must be sealed to prevent carbon monoxide or soot from leaking into the rooms. The processing of seams and joints is carried out using a material that is resistant to high temperatures.
• Elements of the air exchange system must be thermally insulated to prevent fire.
• Air flow must be ensured for normal combustion and removal of combustion products.

Advantages of cooperation with OVeKon-Engineering LLC

LLC "OVeKon-Engineering" has been developing and installing climate control equipment for more than 11 years. Our company’s specialists are competent and qualified professionals who provide ventilation installation services in a private home based on all modern technological and ergonomic requirements. We use only high-quality professional equipment, which helps us solve problems of any degree of complexity.

We offer you a comprehensive installation of ventilation systems to improve the microclimate, which includes:

• selection of equipment and all necessary materials;
• dismantling and installation of ventilation systems;
• service technical warranty and post-warranty maintenance;
• disinfection and cleaning of ventilation systems.

They choose us because we have the following advantages:

• Work experience. Operating in the professional climate market since 2005.
• Innovation. Use of modern developments in the field of energy efficiency and alternative energy sources.
• Technical equipment. The use of advanced CAD tools, imported equipment and tools, thanks to which high quality is achieved in the shortest possible time.
• Production . Own production and warehouse base.
• Guarantee. Carrying out work on the basis of certificates of membership in self-regulatory organizations.
• Extensive geography. We work in all regions of Russia.
• Together from “A” to “Z”. We provide comprehensive ventilation installation services: from design to service.

OVeKon-Engineering LLC maintains a long-term and successful partnership with many trusted suppliers and manufacturers of climate control equipment, and also has its own production facilities for the production of air ducts, shaped and network elements. That is why ventilation installation in a private house is carried out by our company’s specialists in the shortest possible time, at affordable prices and always with high quality.

A properly built ventilation system for a private home is a process not driven by a whim or desire to comply with the norms and trends of modern housing, but a procedure that is extremely necessary to maintain climate balance. Complexity plays a special role here: it is not enough to arrange ventilation in the kitchen and bathroom (as many do). Every room in the house needs ventilation.

Insufficient air circulation between indoors and outdoors can lead to air stagnation, the formation of fungus and mold, and allergic reactions, heaviness throughout the body and poor health will become dubious “bonuses” in a room without ventilation.

The main types used in private homes are natural and forced, the distinctive features of which are the use (forced) of additional equipment, or ventilation using physical processes (natural).

Advantages and disadvantages of natural ventilation

The main advantage of natural ventilation is the simplicity and low cost of constructing the system, while forced ventilation can boast of more efficient and high-quality work.

Along with a number of undeniable advantages - low cost, ease of implementation - natural ventilation also has disadvantages, which, by the way, are significant. Many construction experts talk about the ineffectiveness of such a system and here’s why:

1. According to building codes, the permissible temperature outside should not be lower than +5 degrees, otherwise the draft will increase and a large amount of cold air will begin to enter the house. According to some data, heat losses from natural ventilation in some cases reach 40% of the total volume.
2. The situation is diametrically opposite to the previous point: if it is too hot outside, air exchange is minimized until air circulation completely stops.
3. There is no way to treat the air coming from the street. The environmental situation in the country and in the world leaves much to be desired. Clean air is more of a luxury than an ordinary thing. Untreated and unpurified air can cause many problems.
4. Ventilation in the room has limited adjustment. While it is still possible to reduce air exchange by tightly closing windows and doors, it is no longer possible to significantly increase it.

Air conditioning is mandatory

To create an effective atmosphere in the rooms of a private house, it is necessary to resort to complexity: the best option would be a combination of natural circulation with technological developments in this area (fans, filters, etc.).

Why do you need a hood in a private house with a stove or fireplace?

If a stove or fireplace is used in the house not as a decorative element, but performs its direct duties - heating the room, you need to take care of natural ventilation in double. For complete combustion of the fuel, a sufficient amount of oxidizer (in this case oxygen) is necessary. If there is a shortage of fuel, the fuel will not burn completely, releasing carbon monoxide, which will enter the living space. Naturally, there is little pleasant or useful in this.

Ventilation device in a house with a fireplace

If there is not enough air flow, then in the warm season you can open the window - this will be enough. In winter, such a trick is unlikely to work, so even at the construction stage it is advisable to install a pipe under the floor directly to the fireplace, through which the required amount of air will flow.

To organize a hood, they most often resort to the services of experts; this article is aimed at craftsmen who plan to carry out the installation themselves. Next, we will consider the main recommendations for constructing such ventilation, common problems and disadvantages.

How to make a natural ventilation system with your own hands

Natural ventilation works based on physical laws - due to the difference between warm air indoors and cold air outside (warm air is lighter) as well as pressure differences. Based on this, we came up with a simple design that is quite simple to make in a private house: in the center of the future home, most often in a load-bearing wall, a channel with a cross-section of about 130–140 mm is laid. Horizontal branches with a diameter of 100–100 mm are drawn from it into the rooms of the house.

Diagram and design of a system with a ventilation duct

Ventilation system design

Correct installation

Ventilation duct in the wall

To organize wiring they use. Then physics comes into play - warmer room air is under pressure and is drawn out due to traction force, colder street air enters the rooms through specially made channels, or naturally (doorways, open windows, etc.).

Placement of supply ducts in the wall

1. The thickness of the walls of the exhaust duct must be at least one and a half bricks. Otherwise, the air in it will quickly cool and the reverse process will occur - the air will not be drawn out, but will flow into the rooms.
2. The pipe at the outlet of the exhaust duct on the roof must be higher than the ridge. Otherwise, roof turbulence will interfere with the normal operation of the traction.

Bringing the system to the street

The main flow channel, as described above, is done in a standard way. But the influx of fresh air coming from the street can be organized in two ways - either by making flow channels in the window sills, or by making gaps in the windows. When choosing the second method, it is better to use metal-plastic windows, which have one competitive advantage over wooden ones - an increased level of sound insulation. These measures will be enough to ventilate the house to the required extent.

Fresh air is essential

If we talk about the advantage of using natural ventilation over forced ventilation (filters, radiators, etc.), you need to focus on two points - noise and air frequency.

Natural ventilation does not require additional equipment (at least, you can do without it). This means that there will be no extraneous noise in the house from operating fans and radiators.

Many people, when installing air purifying filters, forget that they require constant replacement. After prolonged use, the filter becomes dirty and the air passing through it is not cleaned, but is supplied with an additional dose of dust and other substances, making it even more polluted. There is no need to control air exchange during natural ventilation - especially since some of the large particles coming into the house from the street along with the air settle on the windowsills, where they can be easily removed with a damp cloth. And if we assume that wet cleaning is carried out in the house regularly, then this should not cause any additional inconvenience.

Video: how to arrange a natural hood

Don't forget about the air conditioning system. A properly organized tandem of natural, forced ventilation and air conditioning will make life in the house comfortable and safe for health.

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Residential ventilation systems - detailed overview

Basic principles of air exchange organization

VENTILATION STANDARDS

In accordance with sanitary rules, ventilation systems must have a certain performance:

• for residential premises - from 3 m 3 / h per 1 m 2;
• for combined sanitary zones - 50 m 3 / h per 1 m 2;
• for separate sanitary zones - 25 m 3 / h per 1 m 2.

LOCATION OF VENTILATION DEVICES

Exhaust devices are installed in places where harmful emissions are generated in order to localize them and prevent further spread.

Supply ventilation is installed where residents spend a long time, for example, in the bedroom or living room. The temperature and purity of the supplied air must comply with sanitary standards.

FUNCTIONALITY

A properly installed ventilation system prevents mixing of supply and polluted air. At the same time, it does not allow polluted air to move from room to room.

RECOVERY

In the cold season, the supply of supply air should be organized in such a way that it is heated by the exhaust air. Such a solution will help not only maintain a comfortable atmosphere, but also save on heating costs,

Types of ventilation systems

NATURAL AND FORCED VENTILATION

Ventilation is considered natural if it operates without the help of any electrical devices. In this case, air transportation occurs due to external factors - wind pressure, differences in altitude and temperature. Air enters the room through the enclosing structures and is removed through the exhaust duct provided for by the building design.

Forced ventilation requires the installation of special equipment - fans, filters, heaters and other devices that create comfortable conditions. Mixed types include systems where air flow occurs naturally and removal occurs using the same electrical equipment.

SUPPLY AND EXHAUST VENTILATION

Fresh street air is supplied thanks to a supply-type system. It can be either natural or forced. In the latter option, various units can be used for cooling, heating and purifying air flows. Exhaust and contaminated air is removed through exhaust ventilation channels. The balanced action of both systems ensures that the room always has clean air.

LOCAL AND GENERAL VENTILATION

Exhaust ventilation for local use is installed in case of local accumulation of harmful emissions and contaminants, and supply ventilation is installed if the supply of fresh air is necessary at a specific point. An example of a local exhaust duct would be a hood in a food preparation area. For effective ventilation of the entire house, a general exchange system is used. Supply general ventilation, as a rule, includes air treatment equipment - in fact, it is forced.

Calculation of ventilation performance

BY AMOUNT OF AIR

To determine the volume of air exchange in a room, use the formula: L = L norm x N,

where L norm is the amount of air consumed by one person (norm - 60 m 3 / hour); N is the number of people who are constantly in the house or apartment. Accordingly, L is the volume of air that ventilation should renew (m 3 / h).

BY UPDATE RATE

Air renewal should occur at least once an hour. However, sometimes this is not enough. In this case, the volume of air exchange should be calculated using another formula:

L = nxSxH

(where n is the number updates that must comply with standards (1-2 times per hour for residential premises); S - total area of ​​housing; H - ceiling height. It is clear that L is the performance of the ventilation system necessary for a given situation (m 3 / h). It is advisable to use both methods of calculation. In this case, you need to compare the results obtained and choose the one that is more important.

Ventilation in a country private house

WHAT TO CHOOSE?

The choice of a particular type of ventilation system depends on several factors.

Location.

If the house is located far from major highways, in an environmentally friendly area, then natural supply and exhaust ventilation would be a suitable option. If environmental conditions are not good enough, it is better to force air exchange.

Material of construction.

In houses built of wood, brick or porous concrete, you can safely install natural ventilation. For frame houses made of sandwich panels, a forced ventilation system is well suited.

Seasonality of residence. In suburban housing for permanent residence, especially if it has a large area, it is advisable to use air exchange systems using heat exchangers (recuperators).

SYSTEM FEATURES

The ventilation scheme for a country house may include the following elements.

Underfloor ventilation.

It is needed if the building has a wooden floor on joists. To do this, it is necessary to install special openings (vents) in the enclosing structures below the floor level, covered with a steel grille to protect against rodents.

Supply valves in the walls. They are placed between windows and heating radiators for more efficient air exchange in residential areas. The design of these devices includes the ability to adjust the volume of incoming air.

Grilles in doors and internal partitions. They serve to circulate fresh air masses between the rooms of the building, which makes it possible to ventilate the entire house.

Ventilation in the apartment

What to choose?

Initially, the design of any apartment building includes a natural exhaust ventilation system. However, due to the poor ecology of modern cities, natural air exchange is poorly conducive to creating a comfortable microclimate. Forced or mixed type supply and exhaust ventilation will cope much better with this.

SYSTEM FEATURES

Depending on the overall cost of the project, the system may contain the following equipment.

Supply valves.

They provide a flow of fresh air and are installed, as in country houses, next to the windows.

Mechanical air supply unit.

A more expensive option for fresh air ventilation. It consists of a suction unit, which is usually located on the balcony, and plastic air ducts hidden behind suspended ceilings. You can add moisturizing and cleansing filters.

Exhaust fans- to remove exhaust air, as well as smoke and odors in the kitchen and bathroom.

Recuperator.

It is a heat exchanger that heats the incoming air in winter using the exhaust air removed, and cools it in the same way in the summer.

Ventilation in the bath

WHAT TO CHOOSE?

A bathhouse is a wet room where creating a comfortable microclimate is a priority. Natural ventilation can also cope with it, but the best solution is considered to be a combined scheme with a forced exhaust system.

BASIC RULES FOR INSTALLING VENTILATION WITH YOUR HANDS

1. At least two ventilation holes are installed in the room - for air supply and for air removal. The direction of the air masses heated from the furnace will depend on their location. To be able to adjust this direction, sometimes not one, but two supply windows and one exhaust window are built.

2. Inlet and outlet openings can be located on one wall or on two opposite ones, but in any case - at different heights. The output is usually higher.

3. A fan is installed on the exhaust window, with which you can regulate air exchange. For the same purpose, supply windows are equipped with a valve.

4. The size of the ventilation holes should be the same (100-200 cm2). It is allowed that the size of the output window be slightly larger than the input window, but the main thing is not smaller.

5. The floor in the bathhouse also needs ventilation. To do this, the flooring boards are laid so that there is a gap of 0.5 cm between them.

Ventilation in the bathhouse with your own hands - questions and answers

We don’t have windows in our steam room, so we ventilate it by opening the door for a few minutes...

Unfortunately, this method is ineffective. Especially if there are no windows in the adjacent room. Moreover, steam and humidity from the steam room with this method of ventilation enter the adjacent room and condense there in the form of moisture. Both rooms are not ventilated, but are filled with exhaust air from the steam room or, even worse, steam.

If there is a window in the room adjacent to the steam room, then it must be opened wide and at the same time the door to the steam room is quickly opened and closed several times, “pumping” air. So the steam room is really ventilated, although not as well as with proper ventilation. Often, with this method, so-called stagnant zones are formed in the steam room, in which there is no air exchange.

We want to make an air intake for fresh ventilation from the underground space of the bathhouse...

I really don't recommend it! There are always unpleasant odors in the underground space. In winter, the underground space vents are usually closed. That is, the air flow into the underground space is blocked, so there is nowhere for air to come from.

The exception is buildings standing on stilts or columnar foundations. But we must remember that these types of foundations (due to subsequent problems with the construction of the floor) are extremely undesirable for a Russian bath.

I have a hole made in the ceiling as a hood that goes into the attic...

This is also a very big mistake! When drying or ventilating the steam room, very humid and warm air comes out into this hole, and in the case of Russian baths, a large amount of steam. All this moisture ends up in the attic. In the summer, this all condenses as moisture on the wooden surfaces of the attic. In winter, all this turns into frost or even icicles in the attic.

I don’t have a window in my steam room, but there is a hole in the wall with a diameter of about 100 mm. I open it between visits - for ventilation...

Now try to calculate how much air can be “pumped” into such a small hole in a reasonable time - and evaluate the results obtained by comparing them with the volume of the steam room. This method cannot be called complete ventilation. Such a hole will help with drying the steam room after procedures, but not for high-quality ventilation.

For high-quality ventilation of the steam room, I want to install ventilation ducts with electric motors that will suck out the air...

Why, if it is possible to make ventilation without electric motors? Calculation of forced ventilation and selection of engine power for bath ventilation is very complex; this should be done by professionals. By the way, the presence of an electric motor does not mean that the ventilation will work better. Moreover, based on my experience, I will say that it turns out rather the opposite.

Ventilation in the house: what you need to know

Ventilation in the room ensures that the air is replaced with clean air that is favorable for human breathing. If the hood cannot cope, it is worth taking measures to establish normal air exchange, especially since there are different options for solving the problem.

Our most common ventilation system is natural supply and exhaust. Air comes from the street through any openings it finds (through vents, valves, cracks in window frames), and flies out of the room into the ventilation holes under the ceiling and further along the air ducts into the ventilation shaft leading to the roof. Why does this process not always provide the desired result?

In other words, why do we feel stuffy? Here you need to understand that the influx of fresh air and the removal of “exhaust” air occurs due to the difference in density (temperature, pressure) of the air inside and outside the house. If this difference is insufficient, then air exchange is difficult. For example, when it is hotter outside than indoors, there is no natural draft. Not only the weather outside the window matters, but also the size of the air ducts and ventilation openings and their location.

Wind plus electricity

If natural ventilation is insufficient, it can be strengthened by means of a deflector - an aerodynamic device placed on the outlet of the ventilation shaft pipe. Deflectors are different. Static - non-volatile, “turned on” by the wind, but in a calm state they are inactive.

There are also static-dynamic deflectors that are occasionally powered from the mains. In the presence of wind, they work as static deflectors, and the electric motor turns on only when there is no air movement in the channel, that is, there is no natural draft and no wind. According to experts, the number of such hot, windless days in central Russia is no more than 60 per year. Therefore, the solution is beneficial: the ventilation works regardless of the weather, powering a 25-50 W motor for a maximum of 1/6 of the year. Interruptions in the power supply, which often occur due to extreme weather conditions, are not a problem with such ventilation.

Voluntary-compulsory

In the absence of a natural ventilation system in the house, you can organize the so-called forced ventilation. This requires a certain rearrangement of the premises, laying channels, which, as a rule, are played with a local lowering of the ceiling. The supply and exhaust unit is large in size and noisy in operation. Therefore, it is installed in non-residential premises, often in the attic or balcony.

Air ducts (supply and exhaust) are drawn from it under the ceiling or inside the walls and ceilings to each room. Such installations allow not only to ventilate rooms, but also to prepare air: purify, cool or heat. Actually, these options are the advantage of forced ventilation. This system eliminates the need to open the windows and let in the winter cold. Drafts also disappear. However, electricity consumption increases because the equipment is constantly running.

Home climate workshop

Even clean country air may contain undesirable components: pollen, which causes allergic reactions, or fumes from forest fires. The filter elements of an air handling unit can remove impurities and even improve the home atmosphere with charged particles or aromas.

Forced ventilation can work in tandem with an air conditioner, gently supplying cooled air.

In order to save heat, such installations are often equipped with a recovery system. (It is always cheaper to purify warm air than to take fresh air from the cold and heat it to the desired temperature.) Of course, the mixing of fresh air into purified air occurs, but within 15-20%.

Ventilation in seasonal homes

In summer country houses built without ventilation, problems with air exchange, as a rule, do not arise. In warm weather, you can always ventilate the house thoroughly by opening windows and doors wide, so that the rooms are filled with pleasant aromas of natural freshness. There is no city noise or exhaust fumes in the dachas. There are no other “apartment” problems, for example, when the windows face one side and there is no air movement at all in the heat.

However, even in summer houses, bathrooms and kitchens are now equipped that require forced air exchange. By the way, in houses with a natural ventilation system, the movement of air in such rooms also requires an additional solution, sometimes separate from the general ventilation shaft. It is possible to implement it using special devices built into the walls.

Air heating can be installed using a forced ventilation system. This method of maintaining a comfortable climate without traditional radiators and convectors is quite common abroad, including in Canada and Finland. True, in northern countries, air heating is often supplemented with a “warm floor” system - your feet still get cold.

And the walls breathe

Old window structures, consisting of wooden frames and sheet glass, allow air into the rooms through small but numerous cracks. With the advent of double-glazed windows, this natural channel of air flow disappeared. An open window cannot be considered an alternative, as too much heat is lost, which in a private home results in extra heating costs. Another problem associated with the need for air flow and removal through walls is increased ventilation of bathrooms and kitchens. Different devices built into walls are designed to solve different problems.

Wall and window valves or ventilators. Provide air flow in the case of sealed windows with double-glazed windows with natural or hybrid ventilation. They supply air at outside temperature, so they are often installed above radiators on window sills or, to create better air circulation, in the upper part of the wall. They slightly reduce or do not affect the sound insulation of the room at all.

Fans. They vary in power and allow exhaust air to be removed from the room to the street with the required intensity, for example, from the kitchen or from the bathroom. The devices are mounted in an external wall, inserted into one of the window sashes, But more often they are installed inside a channel communicating with the street through the roof. In bathrooms, turning on the fan is often combined with turning on the lighting; in the kitchen, turning on the hood. There are fans with built-in timers or with human presence sensors.

Recuperators, reversible ventilators. Decentralized ventilation devices with heat recovery, mounted in walls, pump fresh heated air into the room and remove exhaust air; naturally, they operate from the electrical network and differ in the principles of their design. There are, for example, devices that use the principle of human breathing through a scarf. When air is removed, it leaves its heat to the heat exchanger, and when it is pumped in, a new portion receives that same heat. Equipped with reversible electric motors.

At home with and without breathing

The main technologies of private construction - small-block, wooden and frame - have their own characteristics in relation to the design of ventilation systems. The biggest problem is with frame houses. They are even called “thermos houses” because of their complete insulation with hydro- and vapor-proof films, double-glazed windows with modern seals, eliminating cracks and air intake from outside.

Wooden walls, on the contrary, breathe due to the natural structure of wood - they maintain optimal humidity, and due to numerous micro-cracks they also support air exchange. Stone walls (brick, concrete) have good heat capacity, and warm surfaces willingly share heat with fresh air entering during ventilation, providing a comfortable microclimate. In frame houses there is no such effect, and with frequent ventilation a lot of heat is lost.

A large country house is the dream of many families. But in order for the building to be comfortable for living, it is necessary to provide for the presence of all necessary communications in it at the design stage. One of them is ventilation.

An established air exchange system in the house will provide:

• supply of oxygen to the premises;
• protecting rooms from dampness, mold and mildew;
• comfortable living conditions and optimal sanitary conditions for human life.

Which rooms need ventilation?

For normal life, a person needs pure oxygen. Therefore, its supply should be ensured in living rooms, such as the bedroom, living room, and children's room. Service areas in the house (bathroom, etc.) also need constant circulation. Here there is often high humidity and accumulation of odors that need to be removed outside. Ventilation of these premises will reduce the formation of dust, dirt, excessive stuffiness, condensation, the spread of harmful microorganisms, and mold.

Ventilation system, methods of organization

There are two main types of air exchange arrangement in residential buildings:

• natural (natural);
• mechanical (forced).

Features of the arrangement and principle of operation of natural ventilation of a private house

Natural air exchange in residential buildings is carried out based on the difference in pressure inside and outside the house, as well as the effect of wind on the building. How it works?

The temperature inside the house is higher than outside, so the oxygen there has a lighter structure. Thanks to this, he climbs the shafts and goes out into the street. A vacuum arises in the room, which draws fresh air from the street through the openings in the building envelope. The incoming masses have a heavy structure, so they are located at the bottom of the premises. Under their influence, light warm air is forced out of the rooms.

The wind accelerates the circulation of air masses. As the difference in temperature inside and outside the cottage and wind speed increases, the supply of freshness to the house increases. Previously, the places where it entered were leaks in windows, doors, and porous walls. But modern insulation systems, as well as plastic windows, are designed so that there are no gaps in them for air supply. In this case, the inflow is carried out through special valves mounted in the windows or walls of the building.

Waste oxygen enters the openings of the vertical ventilation ducts of the house, located in the kitchen and bathroom, and is discharged outside through them. Replenishment of fresh water occurs through ventilation (opening windows, doors, transoms).

Advantages and disadvantages of the system

Natural air exchange in the house has the following advantages:

• efficiency. The movement of air flows is carried out without the use of additional equipment;
• no accidents. The ventilation design is extremely simple, does not depend on the power supply, and does not require regular maintenance;
• quiet operation;
• Possibility of combination with filtration and air conditioning systems.

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation is poor air exchange, which leads to the formation of condensation, the accumulation of unpleasant odors, and the occurrence of mold and mildew. This threatens not only the gradual destruction of the house, but also the health of the people living in it.

The natural ventilation system does not allow you to regulate the volume of air removed and supplied to the premises. The recycled stream either does not have time to be discharged outside, or is removed too quickly, causing heat loss in the house. In the summer, when the temperature inside and outside the house is almost the same, the draft disappears and the air movement in the system stops. Therefore, natural circulation is practically not used in modern house construction. It is used in combination with a mechanical system.

Forced ventilation - features, types

This is an artificially organized system, the movement of oxygen in which is carried out through the use of injection devices (fans, pumps, compressors). It is used in private buildings where natural ventilation is not provided or does not work. Advantages of mechanical organization:

• works autonomously, regardless of weather conditions (pressure, temperature, wind);
• allows you to prepare the air supplied to the premises to a comfortable state (heat/cool, humidify/dry, purify).

Disadvantages of the forced scheme for mansions:

• significant costs for setting up the system, purchasing equipment, paying for electricity;
• the need for regular maintenance.

Mechanical air exchange in a private house can be arranged in several ways. There are different types of ventilation:

• supply - provides forced supply from the outside;
• exhaust - removes the processed flow from the premises mechanically;
• supply and exhaust - inflow and supply in the house are organized artificially.

Supply ventilation in a private house

This system is designed to replace exhaust air in the house with fresh air. It consists of:

• air intake;
• heating and cooling devices;
• cleaning filters;
• devices supplying air to rooms;
• sound-absorbing devices.

Through the air valve, clean air enters the system, is subject to certain processing, filtered, and, using a fan, is distributed throughout the rooms in the house. Getting into the rooms, it displaces the waste stream. The supplied air can be additionally cooled or heated.

Supply ventilation systems are:

• duct - air circulation is carried out through pipes;
• channelless - the flow is supplied to the room through holes in the walls and windows.

According to the device method, they are distinguished:

• stacked ventilation systems consisting of separate units connected by one air duct;
• monoblock - all devices are collected in one compact housing.

Supply installation schemes have the following advantages:

• the ability to regulate the temperature and volume of oxygen supplied;
• compact dimensions;
• functionality (they have additional devices for cleaning, heating, cooling the supplied air);
• ease of installation and maintenance.

The disadvantages of this type of ventilation can be identified:

• noisiness. During operation, the system units produce sounds, so it is necessary to provide a noise suppressor and install the equipment away from the living rooms in the house;
• the need for space to install all its elements (this will be required when installing a typesetting system);
• need for regular maintenance.

Exhaust ventilation in a private house

When installing this system, clean air enters the rooms through windows, doors, and special valves, and exhaust air is removed using exhaust fans. These devices are installed in the most problematic areas of the house (kitchen, bathroom); they come in wall and duct types.

Pros of this installation:

• control of the volume of exhaust air;
• independence from environmental conditions;
• ease of installation.

Among the disadvantages of the system:

• inability to control the amount of air supplied to the house;
• costs for the purchase of equipment, electricity;
• the need for regular maintenance.

Ventilation using supply and exhaust units

How to make ventilation in a private house with metal-plastic windows, finished with modern thermal insulation materials? To do this, you need a high-quality system that allows you to supply fresh air and remove exhaust air automatically. Air handling units will solve this problem.

They provide for the organization of two parallel flows:

• for exhaust air removal;
• for serving fresh.

These installations allow you to regulate the volume of output and supply flows, allowing you to maintain an optimal level of humidity in the premises of the house. Main elements of the supply and exhaust system:

• air ducts - intended for supplying and removing air masses. They form two parallel lines, consisting of pipes and fittings (tees, rotating elements). Air ducts differ in shape (round, rectangular), cross-sectional area, rigidity (made of aluminum foil, galvanized sheet, plastic);
• fan - provides the pressure in the ventilation system necessary for supplying and removing air. It can be installed on the roof of the building, directly in the air duct, or on a special support;
• air intake grille - through them, air from the street enters the supply channel. Also, these elements protect the system from foreign objects, rodents, birds, and precipitation;
• air valve - prevents air from entering the system when it is off. It can operate on an electric drive, in automatic mode, and can also be equipped with electric heating that prevents freezing of the sashes;
• filters - protect ventilated rooms and the system itself from insects, dust, and other small particles. They require regular cleaning (recommended once a month);
• heater - heats the air supplied to the premises during the cold season. This device can be water (suitable for large cottages) and electric (used in small houses);
• noise mufflers - prevent sounds from operating devices from spreading through the pipe system. They are tubular, plate, chamber, cellular. Once air enters them, it passes through special barriers (perforated channels, tubes or plates), as a result of which its intensity decreases. Installing a silencer is not always necessary. Sometimes, to reduce the intensity of sounds in the system, it is enough to reduce the speed of the installation and ensure sound insulation of the fans;
• air intakes and distributors. The first serve to enter the flow into the system, the second - to distribute it evenly throughout the room. These elements are presented in the form of grilles and diffusers of round and rectangular shapes. They are mounted on the walls or ceiling of the room;
• control system. It can be mechanical (represented by a switch) or automatic (operation is regulated by a remote control). Its main elements are thermo- and hydrostats, pressure gauges;
• security system - represented by a set of additional devices that protect ventilation elements from overheating and power surges.

An improved model of supply and exhaust ventilation is a recovery type system. It ensures efficient circulation in the house without loss of heat. This ventilation system is equipped with a recuperator, which allows reducing the cost of heating air coming from the street. The influent masses are heated by the heat of recycled streams removed from the house. This is the most effective and energy-efficient way to organize air exchange in residential buildings, although it is the most expensive.

Gas ventilation in a private house

The presence of gas appliances in the house places increased demands on the arrangement of circulation in the premises. Impaired traction can cause poisoning from combustion products.

Oxygen is required for normal operation of gas installations. If there is not enough of it, the air in the room is discharged. As a result, reverse draft occurs, and instead of the chimney, combustion products enter the surrounding space. They can cause malaise, severe headaches, loss of consciousness in a person, and even complete respiratory arrest.

Requirements for ventilation of a gas boiler room

Air exchange in a room with a heating device running on natural gas must be organized in accordance with the following technical requirements:

• there are no more than two gas units per chimney;
• combustion products must enter the chimney from different levels (from a distance of more than 50 cm). With a single-level supply, a cut of the same height is installed in the channel;
• To prevent soot and carbon monoxide from leaking into the house, the boiler ventilation system should be sealed. Processing of joints and seams is carried out with material resistant to high temperatures;
• all elements of the exchange system must be thermally insulated to prevent fire.

Ventilation of the boiler room is constructed on the basis of the following calculation: air outflow = air exchange x 3.

Air supply = outflow + volume of oxygen required for the combustion process.

Methods for ventilating a gas boiler room

Air exchange in the room where gas equipment is located can be organized using:

• natural and mechanical ventilation based on draft. Natural circulation is the result of a pressure difference inside the house and outside. During mechanical ventilation, draft is generated by a fan;
• supply, exhaust, or combined ventilation systems, organized according to their intended purpose. Air forced into the room puts pressure on the exhaust flow, pushing it out. Also, oxygen can be supplied to the boiler room naturally and removed mechanically. A combined (supply and exhaust) system will allow you to organize the ventilation of the room automatically, which works effectively in any weather, since the supply and exhaust are carried out mechanically;
• channelless or channel (depending on the design of the cottage). In the first case, the boiler room is connected through holes to another room, from where the waste stream is discharged into the air duct. In the second case, a complex system of pipes is laid to ensure exchange in all rooms of the house.

Advice: to improve the natural ventilation of a gas boiler room, it is better to additionally install an exhaust fan, which will ensure the movement of air masses in the absence of draft.

Closed-type heating devices operating on natural gas are equipped with a coaxial (double) ventilation duct. Through its inner pipe, combustion products are removed, and through the outer pipe, fresh air is supplied to the burner.

If a gas boiler with an open combustion chamber is installed in the house, you should:

• install a pipe to remove carbon monoxide to the street;
• arrange a general air exchange system in the room;
• arrange the supply of oxygen to the boiler.

Note: oxygen can enter the room from the street through cracks and gaps in windows and doors. If the room is sealed hermetically, you will need to organize a forced air supply.

Proper ventilation in a private home

Organizing oxygen exchange will ensure a favorable microclimate in the house, the health of its inhabitants and the safety of the structure itself. How to arrange it correctly?

Norms and rules for home ventilation

To create optimal conditions for human life in the residential and office premises of a cottage, it is necessary that 60 m 3 of oxygen (minimum 20 m 3) enter each of them in 1 hour. Comfortable air humidity is 50%, and its exchange rate is 0.5 m/s.

This can be achieved through proper system design. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the air exchange rate for rooms for different purposes. For a bathroom this figure is 50 m3, a common bathroom - 25 m3, a kitchen - 90 m3. Not only office rooms, but also living rooms and utility rooms should be ventilated. To form a calculated hood, it is necessary to sum up the air exchange rates of each compartment of the house. In this case, it is desirable that actual ventilation exceeds the minimum standards.

Designing an air exchange system in a house

Development of a home ventilation project includes:

• selection of equipment;
• drawing up a communications wiring diagram taking into account architectural, construction, sanitary, and economic criteria.

The purpose of this work is to develop a system that will cope with the supply and exhaust of air, within the estimated volume calculated for the house. The design must not only ensure uninterrupted ventilation of the premises, but also free access to all structural elements (assemblies, chambers). This is necessary for quick troubleshooting and regular maintenance.

For circulation to work well, it is important to carefully select all equipment. It should last as long as possible. The devices used should not spoil the architecture of the house, so it is better to install them in a hidden way.

When designing cottage ventilation, it is important that the system complies with sanitary and epidemiological standards. It must not only cope with the supply/removal of air masses, but also operate as silently as possible. Don't forget about the efficiency of the system. But the desire to reduce installation costs should not affect the quality of the installation. The main design task is to develop the optimal ventilation option for the house, taking into account all the above criteria.

The preparation of a project by a contractor begins with the formation of technical specifications. It contains all the criteria by which the ventilation system should be laid, as well as the customer’s wishes.

Calculation of ventilation in a private house

The operation of the system depends on whether the volume of air supplied and exhausted corresponds to the conditions of the house. This can be calculated using special formulas. The basis is the house plan, which indicates the purpose and area of ​​each room.

First, the air exchange rate is calculated - an indicator that determines how many times in 1 hour the air in the room is completely changed. For most residential premises it can be single, for kitchens, bathrooms, boiler rooms - 2-3 times. It is also necessary to take into account the people living in the house.

The air exchange rate is calculated using the formula: L(air supply unit capacity, m3/h) = n(multiplicity rate for a specific room) *V(room volume).

Calculation of air exchange, taking into account the number of people living in the house, is carried out according to the formula: L = N(number of residents) * L(air intended for one person is the norm). When performing physical activity, one individual needs air renewal - 30 m 3 / h, in a calm state - 20 m 3 / h.

Please note: having calculated the air exchange rate by the frequency and the number of residents, they are guided by the larger of these values.

Equipment selection

Criteria by which the main system settings are selected:

• power, performance;
• operating pressure;
• noise level emitted.

The speed of movement along the highways directly depends on their cross-section, as well as the power of the fan. But you should also take into account that the air ducts provide a certain resistance, which reduces the performance of the air handling unit.

Note: the productivity of the cottage ventilation system should be in the range of 1000-3000 m 3 /h.

At the stage of developing a feasibility study, the type, quantity and power of system elements are determined, its preliminary cost is compiled, and optimization adjustments are made. After this, a working design is drawn up, based on high-precision calculations of air exchange and heat release of a particular house. The devices and air distributors in it are selected according to.

Ventilation diagram for a private house

The air distribution network consists of pipes, fittings (rotating elements, splitters, adapters), distribution devices (diffusers, grilles). Based on this, you can determine:

• fan operating pressure - it depends on the technical parameters of the unit, the type and diameter of the air ducts, the number of rotating and connecting elements, and the air distributors used. The longer the line and the more different connectors, turns, and adapters there are on it, the greater the pressure the fan should create;
• the speed of movement of air masses depends on the diameter of the highways. For residential buildings this is 2.5-4 m/s;
• noise level - depends on the cross-section of the highways and the speed of air movement along them. Quiet operation of the ventilation system will be ensured by large diameter pipes. If it is not possible to install them, use lines with a cross-section of 160-250 mm, equipped with distribution grids 20x20, or 20x30 cm.

According to the interstate standard (GOST 21.602-2003), the diagram must show all elements of the ventilation system. They are designated by certain symbols and signed.

To make it comfortable and safe for a person, it is necessary to organize its ventilation. This will not only provide a favorable microclimate, but will also extend the operational life of the structure itself. There are several types of indoor air exchange arrangements. The choice of a specific system depends on the area, design features of the house, the number of people living in it, and the budget. For it to work effectively, it is better to entrust its planning and installation to professionals with experience in this field.

Ventilation systems come in a variety of designs, so choosing the right option for a private home is quite difficult. You need to understand many subtleties and nuances before making a decision.

What is it for?

Home ventilation in a cottage or country house is needed primarily for ventilation, that is, to replace exhaust air masses with fresh ones. However, this seemingly simple answer hides many subtleties and nuances. It is not always enough to pump in a certain volume of air from the outside and dump some of it outside. A very important task is to free the home atmosphere from dirt, harmful microorganisms and dust particles.

Even in cottage villages, the purity of air masses is questionable. Still, every minute factories are working somewhere, trains and planes are rushing, smoke is pouring out of power plants and from the exhaust pipes of cars. A conventional gas stove pollutes the room atmosphere with moisture additives. Plastic windows disrupt the normal process of removing dirt. Modern ventilation devices successfully solve all these problems.

Windows with mesh can prevent bumblebees and flies, mosquitoes and leaves from getting inside. But they will not protect against dust particles and plant allergens. The air passing through the mesh remains as excessively humid or dry as it is outside. It is not heated in winter and brings sweltering heat in summer. High-quality ventilation reliably cuts off all these negative factors and does not allow mold and other fungi to settle in the house.

Ventilation system design

Ventilation systems can solve such problems only if they are properly organized using a special method. Plastic air ducts are widely used for organizing mines. Thanks to universal connections, you can assemble everything yourself. Metal structures are more reliable, but assembling an air duct from them is much more difficult. This type of work is mostly done by craftsmen.

Grilles are used to distribute air; 1 house can sometimes have more than 10 grilles. They are divided into supply and exhaust format devices. But a prerequisite is that the grille (together with other components) must block the opening for air passage by a maximum of 40%. Forced ventilation systems are often equipped with diffusers and fans.

Ventilation complexes equipped with heaters are capable of heating the incoming air. The efficiency of this option is higher than using even the best heating devices to warm up the already supplied air. A very important component in many cases is the filter. They may not be used in suburban homes, but the proximity to a federal highway or railroad requires the use of an appropriate device. In this case, it should only cope with freeing the air from dust.

Regardless of the subtleties of filling, the equipment used and the natural or artificial drive of air, it is taken from below and released at the top point. Of the additional devices in the natural ventilation scheme, only a supply valve is present. Hoods for boilers, as well as for gas and electric stoves, are of the autonomous type. It is important to understand that they are not able to replace a full-fledged ventilation system. After all, air intake near the ceiling and at a considerable distance from heating devices still does not occur, and therefore the atmosphere in the room will inevitably remain clogged.

Kinds

Already at the time of construction, any building, including a private house, must be equipped with natural ventilation devices. This is a basic minimum, without which a normal indoor environment cannot be ensured. It is for such components that the calculation is usually carried out first, and the portion of air provided by natural ventilation is subtracted from the demand in order to determine the required power of mechanical devices. But the disadvantage of such a system is that it works stably only within very strict limits. It is enough to change the weather conditions, just change the direction of the wind, and the efficiency tends to zero.

Supply ventilation systems provide rational control of the quality characteristics of the air in the home. The simplest way to ensure the flow of air mass is a fan placed in the window opening. The disadvantage of this option is that it only works well during warm periods. If the temperature is very low, it will create discomfort.

The kind of external ventilation that can be seen in public and industrial buildings is excessive for a private home. And the point is not only in excessive power, but also in the large occupied area. You will need to perform the work as accurately as possible and develop the project in the smallest detail. Monoblock systems operating on inflow have become widespread. Such systems are assembled within a single building equipped with noise insulation.

Personal air supply systems only work for one room. Most of these devices are low-power and do not create much noise. The costs of purchasing them are low. There is no need to use air ducts or involve specialists. It is possible to equip such systems with recuperator units, but their effectiveness is ensured only at positive air temperatures.

The attached type of ventilation ducts should have dimensions of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. It is advisable to use ready-made pipes rather than build communications from plasterboard. This is more reliable and saves time during installation. The pipes are discharged above the roof, the lifting height is determined by the installation location. It is prohibited to use ventilation combined with a chimney; The supply and exhaust for the kitchen must be independent of each other.

Separate ventilation ducts lead to rooms that are needed to solve household problems. These are dressing rooms, laundry rooms and storage rooms. Such channels cannot be laid in load-bearing walls. It is also inadvisable to install them in external walls, where this will lead to continuous formation of condensation. The laying of ventilation routes for gas also has its own characteristics. It does not matter whether water heaters (water heaters), heating boilers or kitchen stoves are installed.

The combustion of natural gas inevitably leads to a reduction in the concentration of oxygen in the air. Additionally, this causes an increase in the concentration of carbon dioxide, the chimney becomes increasingly clogged with soot, and the air in the room quickly fills with water and dust. And all this is dangerous not only due to subjective inconveniences: it poses a threat to the health and even lives of people. Since private houses, with the exception of large cottages, do not install boilers more powerful than 30 kW, it is from this level that we should proceed. Natural supply ventilation of boiler rooms is created by marking a channel, the margin of which is about 1 cm.

The diameters of the air pipes are at least 150 mm. They should be laid in openings with a slight inclination towards the street. To cover empty areas, use foam. The part of the foam that extends beyond the contour must be cut off after hardening. It is not possible to eliminate dust clogging in this scheme; the solution to the problem is to use grilles with filters.

Another grille is mounted at the outlet of the pipe to the street to prevent small animals and debris from getting inside. The outlet must be located at least 1 m from the boiler. This requirement is intended to prevent the influence of cold air on the operation of the gas boiler. You should not rely too much on automation: yes, it can compensate for such an impact, but this will only significantly shorten the service life of the product. The natural format of boiler room ventilation, depending on external conditions, allows you to save energy.

Mixed supply and exhaust units contain filters, fans and air heaters. In boiler rooms they provide a complete microclimate. Taking into account the capabilities of modern automated boilers, such systems help reduce fuel consumption and stabilize the operation of heating equipment. Boiler rooms can use ducted or ductless air supply systems. In the first case, its flows are collected together and then discharged outside naturally or forcibly.

To move the air created by gas equipment, rectangular channels based on galvanized steel are most often used. Such systems are easy and simple to install. The kit always includes the necessary parts. There is almost always no need for auxiliary fittings. Since the size and weight of the air ducts are small, you can create them with your own hands.

Standard requirements and design rules

According to regulatory requirements, all technical solutions in buildings and structures must be focused on ensuring and maintaining a microclimate that complies with the instructions of GOST 30494. You should also be guided by the instructions contained in the sanitary rules of 2002. Even emergency ventilation and smoke protection equipment cannot create general noise greater than 110 dB, and impulse noise greater than 125 dB. Anti-corrosion coating of air ducts can be done with easily flammable paints, but their thickness cannot exceed 0.02 cm.

According to the standards in force in Russia, it is necessary to force the air into motion if the meteorological characteristics of the area do not provide the required parameters for its movement. This may also be due to the need to purify incoming air masses. Mechanical ventilation is mandatory in all areas where natural ventilation is completely impossible. Another case where you can’t do without artificial encouragement is in areas where the air temperature drops to -40 degrees or less. In such situations, it is necessary to supplement the pumping systems with heating means.

According to SNiP, air purification from dust should be carried out to the maximum permissible concentration for a specific settlement or lower. All systems should be designed so that the room temperature does not fall below 12 degrees. Ideally, it should be kept within normal limits. The lowest point of the part receiving air from the outside must be located at least 1 m above stable snow cover and 2 m above ground level. If the territory may be subject to sandstorms, the rise should be already 3 m. But the need to protect air receivers from pollen, leaves, twigs, petals and the like is determined individually, according to the technical specifications.

All points where transit air ducts are laid through walls must be sealed through partitions using non-combustible materials. It is prohibited to combine air ducts with gas pipelines, electrical wiring, communication cables and sewer systems. The approach of all these communications to pipes and their simple intersection are also prohibited. If there are several ventilation systems (usually supply and exhaust), then instruments for measuring temperatures and pressures are made common for all circuits.

According to the current GOST, it is allowed to use only those methods of fastening air distribution devices to air ducts or to permanent structures of buildings that are provided for in the technical documentation for the products.

Materials and components

The arrangement of ventilation in houses made of SIP panels has its own characteristics. In this case, since the buildings are lightweight to the limit, the simplest ventilation systems are usually used. The exception is for houses with a height of two or more floors. Even if a house made from such panels is built using ventilated facade technology, additional air flow will still be needed. The simplest option to ensure its flow without disturbing the climatic properties of the premises is to use special valves.

They are mostly installed directly into house frames. Such structures are externally invisible and do not detract from the appearance of the buildings. To connect the supply valves to the frame and ceilings, you can use plastic or asbestos-cement pipes. It is strictly unacceptable to make metal air ducts. They will significantly increase noise and weaken thermal insulation. According to professionals, asbestos-cement slabs as a basis for ventilation of a SIP house are much better than their plastic counterparts.

Mechanical ventilation systems in SIP houses can provide air cleaning and heating simultaneously with pumping. The problem is that it can be quite difficult to make such highways without the help of professionals. Only very trained and skillful people will solve such problems successfully. The key link is the hood, which provides rarefaction of air in living rooms. Since the intake of air masses is carried out forcibly, increased pressure is formed, which ensures the release (displacement) of the exhaust part of the atmosphere into the street.

In many frame buildings they try to make combined ventilation systems. They help maintain optimal air movement with little energy consumption. For a large cottage (180-200 sq. m) it is necessary to create 6, 7 or 8 ventilation ducts. If the total area of ​​the home is smaller or larger, their number also needs to be changed. The pipes form a kind of collector, which is equipped with an exhaust fan.

It is better to use not just mechanical, but fully automated fans. They will need to be connected to humidity sensors installed in each room. Then optimal temperature and humidity conditions will be ensured in any room. The use of infrared measuring instruments is not recommended because their cost is prohibitive. Only professionals calculate the fan power, because no one will be able to do it correctly without special training.

To form ventilation lines in private houses, PVC sewer pipes with a cross-section of 11 cm are often used. They are almost 3 times more profitable than galvanized counterparts, and the air moving through them makes less noise. What is important is that such structures can be installed relatively easily, and the joints will have a high degree of tightness. Such pipes can be equipped with fittings of various types, which makes it possible to make smooth and sharp turns of pipelines at any angle.

The smoothness of the inner wall virtually eliminates obstacles to the movement of air flows. This means not only minimal “loudness,” but also high ventilation efficiency. Buying such pipes will not be difficult in any city. But we must take into account that all sewer pipes are round; they take up more space than rectangular structures of similar capacity. But the concern about the accumulation of static electricity on plastic pipelines, as practice has shown, has no good reason.

As for the release of toxic substances, nothing can be said without studying a specific sample. Only after testing in a laboratory does it become clear whether a certain type of plastic is dangerous or not. All that remains for the consumer is to rely on the quality certificates provided by manufacturers and sellers. Before drawing up a wiring diagram for ventilation pipes, it is necessary to take into account the natural or forced nature of ventilation. Only then will it be possible to use the correct formulas for calculating cross-sections based on throughput levels.

Chimneys, or rather forced exhaust systems, deserve special attention. Although they do not intersect with ventilation and cannot form a single circuit, the tasks being solved are still quite close. Weak draft in a private home is bad not only because of the threat of smoke and carbon monoxide poisoning, not only because of soot and soot in the home. Even a slight weakening of it, which can be difficult to notice, results in excessive fuel consumption, a drop in the efficiency of its combustion and accelerated cooling of the rooms.

Another nuance is that unstable operation of the hood threatens a fire. If soot accumulates, it may one day ignite in such a way that even a heat-resistant type of brick cannot withstand it. By replacing the usual wooden windows with cracks with plastic ones and installing steel doors, the draft will inevitably weaken. After all, all chimney designs are also designed for this fresh air influx channel. Therefore, it will be necessary to compensate for the lost power of natural ventilation through special techniques.

To cope with the effects of wind or changes in the direction of air movement, weather vanes and weathervanes can be used. Such elements, turning in the direction of the flow, block the head of the pipe and maintain a stable mode of air movement in it. When flowing around such parts, the wind contributes to the formation of rarefied areas above the end of the chimney. The result is increased traction without consuming electricity. Most often, weather vanes are made from stainless steel; the sheet thickness should be at least 0.05 cm.

To ensure movement around its axis, weather vanes are equipped with closed support bearings. Such devices do not require additional maintenance during the entire period of operation. If the product meets standard standards, the housing does not collect condensation and soot. The only thing the owners will need to do is fight the formation of ice crusts. In addition, it is worth considering that weather vane fans operate poorly and unstably if the wind is very strong.

An alternative to them are rotary turbines. These devices also use the energy of atmospheric currents. But the twist occurs in one direction, regardless of which way the wind blows. The ball, assembled using a special system of “petals,” prevents the pipe from clogging with all kinds of dirt and prevents birds and insects from settling in. However, when there is no wind at all, this expensive product is almost useless.

The exhaust fan does not depend on the weather. It is fundamentally different from a fireplace ventilation device designed to force draft. The basis of the device is an electric motor designed to be powered by a regular home electrical network. You need to use a smoke exhaust fan if you need to create increased draft in the smoke duct for a small fireplace. High-quality designs ensure normal ventilation of the hearth even when the chimney duct is heated to 600 degrees.

How to do it yourself?

You can begin installing ventilation communications in a private house only after a diagram has been drawn up in accordance with all the rules. But the scheme itself can only be drawn up on the basis of accurate information and estimates:

required air exchange parameters;

created microclimate;

standards for the installation of ventilation equipment;

features and modes of its use.

Russian standards provide that per 1 sq. m of enclosed space it is required to supply 3 cubic meters. m of air in 60 minutes. But at the same time, we must not forget about the “human” norms - 30 cubic meters. m per tenant. All this is worth remembering when it comes time to calculate the cross-sections and internal diameters of the channels, their length and air movement speed. If the kitchen is equipped with an electric stove, 60 cubic meters should be supplied there. m of air, and if gas - another 50% more. When possible, it is worth drawing up technical specifications and entrusting the development of the project to qualified specialists.

As with other technical systems, we must strive to reduce the number of installed parts. It is important to consider points such as:

the ability to repair and configure everything yourself;

availability of backup nodes;

ease of operation;

reliability in a wide range of conditions;

harmonious fit of the ventilation complex into the interior;

cost-effectiveness during installation and use.

All longitudinal seams on air ducts and other elements must face upward. Each fastener is tightened until it stops so that the bolts cannot be turned any further. Individual parts of communications can be placed on the mountings provided for them only after installation. When selecting and using fasteners, pay attention to the weight of the air ducts. The load from them should not go to the devices.

All fasteners must be equipped with means that inhibit the spread of vibration. Radial fans should be placed on rigid supports and secured with anchor bolts. The filter blocks must be tensioned evenly so that they do not sag. Loose installation of electric motors (in which they are poorly fitted to the fans) is prohibited. It is recommended to check whether the fan blades rotate freely.

All openings used for air passage are covered with protective grilles with a mesh size of no more than 70 mm. A mandatory requirement is also to reduce to a minimum the number of bends and turns, as well as intersections and duplicate sections. In any case, the sequence of installation work is as follows:

marking positions for using fasteners;

assembly of retaining structures;

preparation of air ducts and receipt of components;

formation of individual sections of the ventilation system;

merging them into a monolithic complex with consolidation in accordance with plans and diagrams that meet regulatory requirements.

In residential buildings, unlike industrial facilities, ventilation ducts are most often hidden from external view with the help of finishing elements. The selection of a ventilation system for a private home is determined by considerations such as:

construction materials of the building and its ceilings;

total area;

intensity of home use;

number of residents;

environmental and sanitary characteristics of street air;

climate regime of the area;

Rose of Wind;

characteristics of polluting factors in the home environment;

economic feasibility of using certain solutions;

ensuring comfort and a sanitary safe internal environment;

minimizing fire risks and noise;

no negative impacts on neighboring houses and plots, or on the environment.

In private homes, you can use both forced and natural systems. The second option is preferable for buildings made of brick, wood and expanded clay concrete blocks. If the home is equipped with a balcony or loggia, these rooms must be equipped with devices for micro-ventilation. But much more often, hoods are used to remove condensate. Supply and exhaust devices should be used in rooms that do not have windows.

Forced supply and exhaust ventilation is recommended for ventilating built-in garages and home boiler rooms. In a mixed system, a convector is responsible for the influx, the additional functions of which are heating, filtration and disinfection of incoming air. Ultraviolet emitters are widely used to combat harmful microorganisms.

The use of recuperators helps prevent overcooling of the serviced premises in winter.

Phased installation involves installing:

filter systems;

heater;

fan;

recuperator;

air conditioning systems.

If there is no need to place a block, it is simply skipped. But there is no need to change the general order. Air conditioning units are installed last, just before the discharge hole. Domestic ventilation ducts passing through unheated roofs must be covered with thermal insulation. When it is planned to combine inflow and outflow, care must be taken to install exhaust fans. Electrical lines are laid last, just before they are connected; They must be grounded.

When ventilation systems are divided into sections, networks for each of them are assembled separately. Pre-launch tests of all units must be carried out without fail.

It is necessary to drill inputs and outputs with a slight slope in the direction of the street. This is important for complete drainage of condensate. Hole diameter is at least 120-130 mm.

It is advisable to install wall valves in the space from the window sill to the heating radiator. You need to cut a passage in the wall, the cross-section of which ranges from 50 to 60 mm. The pipe goes into the hole. Then you need to secure the outer and inner distributors. Subsequent cleaning of the valve should be done every 6 months or even more often.

Products that activate air exhaust in a private home are installed mainly in kitchens (above stoves) and in bathrooms. The current consumption of such systems is small; it is possible to power them with electricity taken from the light bulb regulators. Mixing and mutual blocking of flows flowing from toilets and bathtubs can be prevented by using a return valve. Air can easily pass through it, but the reverse movement is impossible. Small modifications are fixed to:

• original fasteners offered by the manufacturer.

When choosing a product, you need to look not only at compliance with the project. A very important point for the quality operation of the valve is isolation from water. Experts note that silent systems consume more electricity during operation. Experience in using various versions has led to the conclusion that the body made of acrylic and polyisopropylene is characterized by increased strength. Output through the wall is not the only way to ensure air flow; there is also the possibility of installing products (or preparing passages) in window blocks or separately.

Having opened the frame, cut off the outer seal from the bottom, the length of which does not exceed 50 mm. The removed part of the material is left in storage because it may suddenly need to be returned. A similar part of the internal seal is cut off at the top. The principle is extremely simple:

street air passes into the lower channel;

passing through the internal cavity of the frame, the flow is heated;

an improved portion of air from above is released into the room.

But such a measure, for all its simplicity and ease of implementation, is acceptable only in the southern regions. Wherever severe frosts may occur, the outer hole will freeze and stop working. In addition, there is no way to filter or intensively heat the air. Valves are more advanced in this regard, but they have their drawbacks:

many walls can only be broken through with special tools;

drilling will be accompanied by the release of a mass of fine dust;

assessing the quality of thermal protection of a wooden or stone wall in a drilled location is possible only in winter - when it is almost impossible to quickly eliminate the deficiencies;

heating, filtration, drying and humidification of air are possible only using electrical systems.

In a residential cottage where a heating boiler is installed, a distributed air duct system is most often used. The reason is that any heating boilers absorb a lot of air during their operation. Neither natural circulation nor valves will be able to compensate for the resulting loss. The preferred location of the inflow is at the entrance to the home or in the corridor. After all, it is these points that are guaranteed to communicate with all the others, and the air streams will need to cover the shortest possible distance.

Air ducts can be made not only of steel and plastic; In some cases, corrugated aluminum gives good results. To make the intersections of elements impenetrable, you can use both sealants (there are a lot of them) and insulating tape. Pipes are attached to the ceiling using hangers, carefully choosing their design. Mounting to walls is done using special clamps. To curb noise and vibration, it is allowed to use foam or foam rubber.

During the pre-launch test you should check:

no vibration;

ensuring design and/or standard performance;

normal operation of all installed parts and control devices;

correct air distribution in accordance with planned calculations;

completeness of smoke removal in the kitchen;

the completeness of freeing baths and toilets from moisture, bad and strong odors;

absence of defects in all fastenings and joints;

absence of short circuits and improper operation of electrical circuits;

uniform temperature adjustment during operation of heating devices.

A common misconception is that in a wooden house the walls themselves provide adequate air passage. Even for log buildings built in accordance with modern requirements, this is no longer the case. The problem is even more acute in frame housing with basic wooden elements. If this consideration is not enough, it is important to look at something else:

wood easily becomes saturated with moisture and rots;

without full pumping, the natural ability of wood to let air through will still not allow for its correct change;

natural circulation does not allow the air to warm up;

Carbon dioxide, excess heat and moisture in the air do not escape through wooden structures.

Natural ventilation in a wooden house is usually installed immediately during construction. Vertical channels are made first in basements, and then in other parts of the home. Vents are prepared in the basements, and the supply channel is mounted at the base level. Recommendation: it is advisable to install it from the north, since there the temperature difference is greatest, as is the draft it creates. If the house occupies a large area, it is necessary to form several channels at once.

The organization of ventilation in brick houses is noticeably different from the scheme just described. Hoods must be made in full compliance with fire safety requirements. All hoods are also equipped with insulating grilles; if they are also made of brick, you must create special pockets that will allow you to remove accumulated soot and dust. The air supply inside the brick building is ensured by a fan placed close to the window. But to discharge the exhaust air mass, it is placed in a channel opposite the window opening.

Channels are laid in any case according to templates. For their manufacture, boards measuring 140x2500x25 mm are used. Such parts are provided with cuts, each of which has the same diameter as the ventilation duct. If the room area is 30 sq. m or less, a recess of 14x14 cm is quite enough for it. But the rise of the channel masonry above the roof surface should be at least 7 bricks.

When working, you need to make sure that each seam is perfectly closed with mortar. Only then will the leakage of smoke, vapors, soot and soot into the serviced space be prevented. It is three times more important to provide all rooms where there is no natural circulation in a brick house with an artificial air supply. You will also have to remove it mechanically. The presence of cracks and extraneous holes or cracks in the wall, inside which cold air is supplied, is unacceptable.

Frame buildings made of timber, used only in the summer months, may not be equipped with ventilation systems. But if they are nevertheless created, the recuperator should be supplemented with a bypass. Then, on hot days, excess heating of street air can be canceled without intruding into the design of the air ducts. You can use both conventional and monoblock complexes. The second option has enhanced noise protection, and therefore is ideal for private housing.

Many frame house projects are initially supplemented with special openings, which are initially designed to carry out the required communications. You should not refuse this opportunity. Plastic pipes for air supply and exhaustion are ideal in frame buildings because they:

cheaper than steel ones;

not subject to the destructive effects of condensate;

do not turn into cold bridges.

The minimum size of horizontal channels is 10x10 cm. For horizontal mains, this figure starts from 12x12 cm. It is imperative to use window frames (along with walls) to place inflow valves. It is recommended to install ventilation ducts near air ducts serving gas boilers. If the house is equipped with a conventional stove, the discharge channel is as close as possible to this device.

The hood in a one-story house is often enhanced by adding a household fan. This approach is quite convenient and allows you to prevent the spread of bad odors throughout the house. But ensuring normal operation of the system is impossible without leaving gaps separating the floor from the doors. Central air conditioning is often an added upgrade. However, its use is difficult due to the fact that it will be necessary to stretch very thick pipes.

They take up a lot of space and are not always practical or comfortable in appearance. The cost of such a device is not affordable for all people. But regardless of the season, it will provide the same level of heating in any room. In a two-story residential building, the problems are somewhat different. Here, supporting normal air circulation in sanitary facilities and kitchens occupying different tiers comes to the fore.

Please note: conventional technical solutions used in two-story buildings often create increased noise. We must immediately prepare for this and actively dampen extraneous sounds. At the same time, it is impossible to reduce the ventilation power of problem areas - the air in them should be changed 10 times in 60 minutes. Professionals consider the best solution to the problem to be the use of a natural supply and exhaust configuration and a recuperator.

The main ventilation unit in a house with both a full second floor and an attic must pump at least 400 cubic meters per hour. m of air.

But the larger the ventilated area, the stronger the installation must be. It is recommended to use decentralized type recuperators. Such devices are installed in separate rooms, eliminating the need for air duct systems. Positive results are reflected even in adjacent rooms.

Correct air movement is ensured by placing the receiving and output openings on opposite walls. But their area must be strictly identical, only then the passage of air flows will be normal. Recommendation: it is better to replace the upper grille with a pipe rising above the roof. In this case, the overall efficiency will only increase further. It is advisable to equip the sewage system with a separate ventilation system.

Fan pipes are made of the same materials as the waste discharge riser. To carry them out, the channel provided by the design of the house is used. Important: if the architects did not initially concern themselves with this point, a horizontal outlet into the wall should be used. Since the drain in a private house is small, the passage of odors from the septic tank is also very limited. The inner sides are insulated using roofing felt or bitumen, and the outer sides are lined with 350 mm of clay or a little more.

There are also subtleties when arranging ventilation in houses made of aerated concrete. Often, central channels are made from reliable grades of galvanized steel. Insulating the passages helps prevent the occurrence of condensation. Alternatives to such measures include laying a brick air route or lining with a carefully designed plastic seal. Ventilation of aerated concrete premises is carried out at least 5 times within an hour.

Air ducts can be made from galvanized material, asbestos cement, or plastic with the appropriate characteristics. It is necessary to lay channels in all rooms without exception. The lines used to remove exhaust air merge together in the attic or at ceiling level. In this case, high-quality insulation of their roof outlets is extremely important. For forced ventilation of aerated concrete buildings, pipes with a cross-section of 130 mm are used; natural channels are made from 150 mm pipes.

Experienced builders believe that laying channels inside walls is impractical. In this case, you may encounter the appearance of condensation and a decrease in the thermal characteristics of the home. In aerated concrete houses, special shafts or partitions are used to place drainage and underwater channels, separating the internal walls. The best solution is to line it with a plastic part and cut out holes of the required size.

Arranging air circulation in built-in rooms

But simply supplying portions of fresh air from the outside is not enough - both in a wooden house and in a structure made of aerated concrete this is true to the same extent. After all, if freshness touches only the immediate conclusion and does not go further, all meaning will be lost. Ventilation must also ensure the circulation of air masses. For a cold attic in the classical scheme, an adjustable system is required, in which the rafters and sheathing are not closed. If this approach is not satisfactory, you need to use cladding with gaps through which gas will move freely and unrestrictedly.

Ondulin and slate should be laid without the use of films that hinder the movement of air or water vapor. They will also pass through metal tiles well, but you may encounter condensation. Channels for air access on a gable roof are made in the gables. For tight junctions and lining, as well as for the manufacture of pediments made of stone, you will have to prepare holes in the walls. The total area of ​​ventilation ducts on any floor, including the attic, must be at least 0.2% of the total area.

To save money, they install standard grilles (one with adjustment, and the other with the holes facing down). It is imperative to cover the grilles with mosquito nets to ensure that insects do not get inside. This is not the approach required for hip roof ventilation. There, the air input is prepared at the bottom (in the filing), and for its output a hole is prepared at the very ridge. When using a flexible roof, we recommend a turtle-type valve or a ridge with a ventilation function.

There is a fairly widespread opinion that attic ventilation leads to loss of warm air. In reality, such cases occur only through the fault of unprofessional builders or designers. They start such a myth in order to justify their own mistakes and shortcomings in their work. Ventilating systems must be of increased strength, because otherwise they will not withstand the resulting loads. It is recommended to bring the holes as close to the ridge as possible.

It is allowed to install continuous soffits under the eaves. But if such products are installed, they must be equipped with a thin mesh (plastic or aluminum to prevent corrosion). Supply components must be installed in the cleanest place possible. The distance from the suction equipment to the exhaust fan should be at least 8 m. Installing a recuperator is very useful.

When the design of a private house provides for the organization of a ground floor (basement), it is necessary to consider equipping its walls with openings for natural air exchange. This takes into account:

composition and mechanical structure of the soil;

relief of the territory;

prevailing wind directions;

depth of foundation and its type;

mode of use;

groundwater height.

According to professionals, 1 hole should be per 2-3 m of wall. Several more of them are made when construction is carried out in a lowland. If there is a clear lack of ventilation, an additional supply and exhaust system is used. Floor ventilation is very important, sometimes even more important than basement ventilation. If it is not provided, even the strongest and most beautiful boards will quickly be destroyed by mold and other fungi.

Air is blown through the underground space through holes made in the foundation. Pipes working for inflow are laid there. They try to bring them as close as possible to the hood; if this is not possible, simultaneously increase the diameter of the inlet hole. If during the first months of using the home the ventilation proves to be insufficiently effective, additional holes have to be punched. But it is much easier and better to do everything properly when pouring a concrete base.