Every mother wants to surround her baby with warmth and care, so she is quite scrupulous when choosing things for a newborn. And today we will talk about a knitted blanket for a baby.

Nowadays, it is not only a fashionable and creative item in a child’s wardrobe, but also warm and practical. The blanket can be used at any time of the year: be it a cool summer evening or a frosty winter day. The main thing is that it matches the season.

The lining plays an important role: with it, the blanket holds its shape perfectly, and it is more pleasant to the baby’s body (especially if wool yarn is used).

So, we have a blanket and a lining:

We will need:

• lining
• scissors;
• tailor's chalk;
• centimeter;
• hook (the same one used to knit the blanket);
• plaid-colored yarn;
• large needle (gypsy).

We lay out the blanket, for example, on the floor, straightening out all the edges and corners. We measure its parameters from edge to edge to the border or a specific motif. We transfer these measurements to the lining. Cut it out. And we cover our blanket and evaluate the preliminary result.

You can, of course, fold the fabric and simply hem it, but the seam will be thick, and on the front side the hem can be visible through the openwork.

Therefore, let's immediately tie the blanket. We take a needle, thread the yarn through it, and tie a knot at the end. We pierce the lining from the wrong side, bring the needle out, and then go back, do not tighten it completely, but hook the resulting loop onto the hook.

Grab the working thread and pull it through this loop.

Next we knit with single crochets: two in one hole in the lining.

Sometimes it is difficult to pierce the fabric with a hook without damaging it, so here you can either sharpen the head of the hook, or take a large needle and push it through a couple of times so that the hook continues to pass well.

We round the corners of the lining with scissors literally by a couple of millimeters and when tying between pairs of posts we add one air loop.

Having finished tying, we do not break the thread, but thread it through the needle. We secure the lining around the entire perimeter with pins, especially the corners.

1. It is not always possible to buy the yarn specified in the model description, but you should always buy yarn whose length is at least approximately equal to the length of the yarn indicated in the instructions. The thickness of the knitting needles must also correspond to that indicated in the instructions.

2. Before starting knitting, carefully read the job description. After all, even due to the incorrect interpretation of a parenthesis or comma, the instructions may seem unclear, which will seriously complicate your work. If you read the instructions to the end, you can understand unclear points from the context.

3. If the instructions contain instructions for several sizes, then it will be easier for you if you highlight the numbers related to your size with a colored felt-tip pen or marker. This will help avoid mistakes and save time.

4. If you are making a product from two different types of yarn, then it is desirable that they have approximately the same length of thread in the skein. In addition, the thickness of the knitting needles indicated on the parcel should be the same. Don't forget to check the instructions for caring for the yarn - compliance here is also necessary, otherwise an unpleasant surprise may await you the first time you wash it.

5. Knit a sample measuring at least 10 x 10 cm. Cut out a template from cardboard, inside of which there should be a square window measuring 10 x 10 cm. Place the template on the sample. Now you can easily count the number of loops and rows. Compare your numbers with those in the instructions. If your pattern has more stitches than indicated in the job description, then you should knit tighter or use knitting needles 1/2 or even 1 number thinner. If your pattern has fewer stitches, knit loosely or use thicker knitting needles.

6. Do not unravel the sample, but set it aside so that you can check the knitting density at any time if you want to knit something. And when you collect a lot of such samples, you can use them for a patchwork-style bedspread.

7. If you are going to knit your first model, then choose a not very tight, simple and relaxed silhouette. To knit a model of a close-fitting or complex style, training is needed. Start with something easier.

8. If you are knitting something for a child and know that you may have to lengthen the sleeves, knit them from top to bottom. In this case, decreases become additions and vice versa. But then you can easily undo the closed loops and tie on the sleeve.

9. A scarf is never too long! Let it be a little longer than indicated in the instructions, then it can be worn over a coat.

10. Fully knitted pockets stand out a little on the front side of the product. Therefore, if you have problems with your figure, use thin machine-made knitwear for burlap.

11. Special colored plastic marking rings can be found on sale. They can mark certain areas of work, decreases and additions, the transition from one circular row to another, and much more. These rings come in different sizes and can be easily removed after finishing work.

12. If your hands get tired quickly when knitting large pieces, use circular knitting needles.

13. If you are knitting a long sleeve model, be sure to measure the length of the sleeve from wrist to shoulder.

14. Thin yarn can be joined invisibly in the following way: thread one end of the thread into a needle and pull it through the other end of the thread about 5 cm. A very small tip will remain hanging from each thread. After finishing the work, the ends are simply cut off.

15. If you knit with threads of several colors or several types of yarn, use a special thimble or ring. It can have from 2 to 4 loops for threads, which prevents them from getting tangled

16. If you are going to knit a product from cotton yarn, be sure to wash the sample in water that has the maximum temperature allowed for this yarn, since the fabric usually shrinks. This way, you can take these changes into account in your calculations.

17. A practical thing that you will never regret purchasing is needle tips made of colored plastic or rubber. They will prevent the hinges from slipping if you interrupt work

18. Another very practical thing is the row counter. It is put on the knitting needles and the row number is changed at the end of each knitted row. This will allow you to avoid tedious row counting, especially when making complex patterns.

19. When knitting a placket or cuff, use thinner needles. But, nevertheless, the bar can still stretch. If you add a thin elastic band to the working thread when knitting a strip, it will not lose its shape.

20. If you knit with two layers of thread, try to tension both threads equally.

21. When choosing a model, carefully read the measurements on the pattern. Often models have quite large allowances for freedom of fit. If you don't like spacious things, just choose a smaller size.

22. If you have to unravel a piece to a certain row, then pick up the loops on a thinner knitting needle: you will not lose a single loop.

23. Even if you are in a hurry, try to finish the row you started. Otherwise, the loops in the middle of the row may come down, ruining the entire product.

24. If you are knitting from a light-colored yarn, put the ball in a bag and seal it, leaving a small hole for the thread.

25. If you need an auxiliary knitting needle, but you don’t have one, take a knitting needle from a set of double needles, that is, not very long and without a stopper.

26. If you make a 1 x 1 rib strap using threads of two colors, an interesting effect will be achieved. It should be done like this: knit only the front loops on circular knitting needles with a thread of the same color, remove the purl ones, and work the thread. Then return to the beginning of this row and knit only the purl loops with a thread of a different color.

27. The auxiliary knitting needle should always be one full size thinner than the main knitting needles.

28. If the line of your circular knitting needles is too hard and curls, put it in boiling water for a few seconds, it will become soft again.

29. If you knit the last 2-3 rows along the edge of the golf collar with thicker knitting needles, the edge will stretch better.

30. If you are knitting a product from very dark or black yarn, then in order not to strain your eyes, lay a white scarf on your lap.

31. If you are knitting a jacket with a V-neck and a solid neck tape, then put the tape loops on a pin and tie the tape after finishing the work. Then quietly sew it to the shelf. This binding will turn out very neat.

32. Store your knitting needles in the same bag in which they were sold. If you forget their number, you can always find it on the package.

33. For products knitted in the transverse direction, you should not choose too complex patterns, since due to frequent additions and decreases, the repeat may shift, which inevitably leads to an error.

34. The instructions indicate that you need to reduce by pulling. You can instead knit 2 loops together with a knit stitch. The result will be the same.

35. If you want to use leftover yarn for a quilt, knit it crosswise. In this case, you will get cells of the same size.

36. Patterns for bias-knit pullovers, jackets, etc. should not be too complicated. Choose a pattern that consists of rectangles, otherwise you may have difficulty making additions and decreases.

37. Do you prefer to knit purl stitches? Then, when garter stitching, only purl stitches.

38. If you cross the purl loops, you can get interesting patterns. Knit the 2nd loop from the left knitting needle before the 1st, do not lower the loop from the knitting needle, now knit the 1st loop and lower both loops.

39. If you knit a pullover crosswise, then the sleeves and trims should be made separately. They can be knitted by casting along the edge of the finished parts, or sewn with a regular or ketel stitch.

40. If you need to knit in stockinette stitch, work the first row with a 1x1 rib, then the edge will not curl.

41. If you sew buttons not with thread, but with a thin elastic band, then the knitted fabric will suffer less.

42. If you sew the loops with a thin, strong thread of a matching color using a buttonhole stitch, they will not fray longer.

43. If you iron a suitable piece of fabric on the wrong side of the buttonholes, the knitted fabric will retain its shape longer and will not stretch out.

44. Hiding the ends of threads is not a pleasant task. It can be made easier and faster if you use a crochet hook.

45. Knitted coats and skirts should have a lining, then the product will retain its shape longer. First, steam the finished parts, then cut out the lining, using the same pattern as for the parts. Sew the lining pieces together using a sewing machine and manually sew the lining to the product using a loose goat seam. This way the lining will not move and will not tighten. The lining is not sewn along the bottom line.

46. ​​If you knit with a thick thread, then you can put a new skein of yarn into work in the following way: unravel the thread fibers a little so that you get two ends. Trim them and shorten one end at the same time. Do the same with the end of the new thread. Now connect and intertwine the ends of the old and new threads; if desired, you can also stitch them with a needle. If you are not using thick yarn, then you need to introduce a new skein from the beginning of the next row (or at the edge of the part). And don’t be upset if there is a “tail” left from the previous skein: it will be useful to you when assembling.

47. If you sew cuffs and trims with a goat seam, the connection will be more elastic.

48. To prevent the edges of the lining of coats and skirts from curling, they can be finished with bias tape.

49. When knitting a children's pullover, it is better to work the sleeves from top to bottom. In this case, they can be easily tied,

50. Products knitted from angora will retain their shape longer if you add a matching silk sewing thread when knitting.

51. If your child is a schoolboy and wears a backpack, then add an extra thread when knitting the shoulders so that they do not rub out.

52. If you knit a product with stripes, the edges will be neater and you will be able to avoid tedious masking of the ends of the threads if you do not cut them, but pull them parallel to the future seam

53. If you are knitting a children's pullover, then add an additional thread to the working thread at the elbows. This will give the sleeves strength.

54. If you sew an elastic band to a child’s apron-bib instead of strings, then this model will be safer, and besides, the grown-up baby will be able to put on and take off such a bib independently.

55. If you are hemming a jacket, pullover or skirt, which then should be turned inward, then by knitting 1 row of purl stitches between the rows of stockinette stitch, you will get a neat fold line.

56. To keep the edge of the product elastic, you can close the loops with a crochet hook. To do this, you need to hook 1 loop and pull 1 yarn over through it. Hook up the next loop, yarn over and knit both loops, etc.

57. If the instructions say that the piece should be knitted symmetrically, then it is best to write in advance a description of the mirror image of the model described in the text. This way you definitely won’t confuse anything.

58. If you knit from the end of the thread that is in the middle of the ball, the knitted fabric will be more uniform.

59. If you need to set aside a large number of loops, instead of an auxiliary needle it is better to use a special knitting pin or a large safety pin. In this case, not a single loop will slip off.

60. To prevent the neck from stretching, when closing the loops, add a thin elastic band to the working thread.

61. If you need to buy more yarn and you cannot find skeins from the required batch, alternately knit 1 row of old and 1 row of new thread. After several rows of this knitting, you can continue working with new yarn. This way you can easily disguise possible differences in yarn shades.

62. If, when knitting sleeves, you want to avoid tedious counting of loops, increases and decreases, knit the sleeves not one by one, but from separate balls on the same knitting needles, simultaneously performing increases and decreases.

63. When knitting socks, try to use special types of yarn. When knitting the heel and toe, add an additional strong thread to the main thread,

64. If you don’t have leftover yarn to darn knitted socks, then take a bright thread in a contrasting color. Modern fashion offers similar models with colored heels and toes.

65. You can lengthen the pullover by knitting a yoke. To do this, spread the product along the bottom line of the sleeves and tie the yoke. It is best if it is made from a different yarn. You can use fancy yarn, soft mohair or angora - they will go well with knitted fabric made from 'regular' smooth yarn. Since it is almost impossible to choose tone-on-tone yarn, it is better if you immediately give preference to contrasting yarn.

Good afternoon, dear readers!

I saw these crocheted and knitted baby blankets on etsy.com. What attracted me to them was the completely simple knitting and bright flannel lining.

It seems to me that this is not only interesting, but also very practical, environmentally friendly and comfortable for the baby; such a blanket will be especially warm.

The lining will prevent the blanket from stretching and will help keep its shape.

We knit a baby blanket. Materials

Yarn for knitting a blanket, you should, of course, only use natural or special yarn for children, a thread of medium thickness.

Buy yarn for children's knitting. This could be Italian acrylic for children's knitting, Italian stock Ballet, LANOSO, Pekhorka and others.

For a children's blanket you will need about 10 skeins of yarn (100 g each).

The blanket can be knitted or crocheted, whatever you like.

When crocheting, I would advise using thinner yarn. hook No. 2-2.5, then the blanket will be softer and more tender.

Spokes for knitting a baby blanket, the numbers 2.5 -3 are suitable.

Again, the choice of hook and knitting needles must be approached individually depending on the yarn, the chosen knitting pattern and the knitting density.

For lining You will need 1 meter of flannelette fabric with a bright pattern. You can even use a diaper. Fleece is often used as a lining, but it is still synthetic.

Sizes of a knitted baby blanket

If the blanket is intended to wrap a baby in it, then it is more convenient to make it square. The size of the blanket is recommended to be no less than 100 x 100 cm and no more than 110 x 110 cm. Of course, small deviations from these dimensions will not spoil the blanket.

If the blanket will be used to cover the bed, it is better to knit it according to the size of the children's bed - 70 x 125 cm; if covering a child of at least 2-3 years, then 110 x 140 cm.

How to knit a baby blanket

We decided on yarn and sizes. We choose a knitting pattern and knit a sample in order to calculate the number of loops that need to be cast on.

I offer you several patterns for crocheting baby blankets.

Pattern 1 Pattern 2 Pattern 3

You can also use a zigzag pattern. We have already talked about knitting blankets with this pattern.

Having crocheted a rectangular or square fabric for a baby blanket according to the pattern, we tie it around with several rows of single crochets.

If you like to knit, then we knit a baby blanket with knitting needles.

A blanket lined with a flannel can be knitted with the simplest patterns: alternating knit and purl stitches, for example, as in the photo above, or a beautiful pattern with tulips.

Here’s another interesting pattern for knitting a baby blanket; this pattern reminds me of boats.

When knitting a baby blanket with knitting needles, we start and finish knitting with several rows of garter stitch, and the garter stitch should go along the edges on both sides of the blanket fabric.

You can try knitting a blanket with multi-colored stripes and even a checkered pattern. To do this, use a needle to pull colored threads along the finished blanket at an equal distance from each other.

For a checkered blanket, longitudinal colored tracks are knitted immediately during the process of knitting the fabric. We obtain transverse tracks by crocheting the thread.

How to sew a lining to a baby knitted blanket

The lining, as I already wrote, is better made from flannelette fabric.

The size of the lining is smaller than the size of the blanket by the size of the sides that we knitted along the edges of the blanket. But don’t rush to cut it out.

To ensure that nothing gets warped after washing the blanket, we need to wash both the blanket and the flannelette separately from each other even before we sew on the lining.

We spread a knitted baby blanket on a table or on the floor, placing a large towel on it. Let's straighten it out.

The bike can also be hung to dry.

After the parts have dried, iron the bike and cut out the lining, do not forget to allow seam allowances of approximately 1.5 - 2 cm.

We tuck the edges of the lining and baste it to the knitted blanket.

Then you can stitch along the edge using a machine, but it seems to me that a hidden seam made by hand will be more accurate and inconspicuous.

That's the whole process of creating a blanket: we knit a children's blanket, wash it, sew on the lining and once again wash the finished blanket with a flannel lining. We’ll talk about other ideas for knitting baby blankets later, do not miss !

To update your bedroom interior, you can sew a bedspread; The ideas are so numerous that choosing the right option is easy. With the help of textiles, a color accent is created or a large piece of furniture fits harmoniously into the overall design. The decision to decorate a bedroom should only take into account a competent combination of the overall style and individual furnishings. After all, a chic bedspread made of brocade or satin will look ridiculous in a small room with inexpensive furnishings.

To update your bedroom interior, you can sew a bedspread

The main item in a bedroom of any style is the bed. It is she who is the center of the composition when choosing the design of a room. In small bedrooms of city apartments, the bed occupies a significant area of ​​the room and has a dominant role.

Based on these considerations, the choice of color scheme for the bedspread is dictated by the need to make the bed less or more noticeable. In large bedrooms, it makes sense to emphasize its importance, highlighting it as a bright spot in the interior. A blanket made of contrasting or light-reflecting smooth fabric such as satin can be used for this. Pillows, a runner or cape, and a bed valance that match the decor help to link the selected item with the palette of the surroundings and harmonize the design.

If the room is small, then you want to visually make a spacious, especially double, bed smaller, thereby expanding the space of the bedroom. In this case, it makes sense to select the bedspread itself so that it matches the color scheme of the interior. Small details can be made of contrasting fabrics, creating the effect of small areas of color and distracting attention from a large piece of furniture. Bright pillows or a runner, a throw on the head of the bed, an insert of contrasting fabric on a plain bedspread or a stripe with appliqué are techniques that can be used when decorating a small bedroom.

Using textiles you can create a color accent or harmoniously fit a large piece of furniture into the overall design

How to choose a suitable bedspread model?

The choice of model or style of bedspread should be dictated by the personal taste of the housewife herself. But you shouldn’t try to fit something into the interior that won’t suit the overall style of the room. Lush satin products with a border of frills and ruffles are unlikely to look harmonious in a modern, cold, high-tech interior or in a minimalist bedroom.

A bed cover should be appropriate in each specific bedroom. Provencal or other rustic furnishings are decorated with patchwork, but such an element may not be suitable for a Victorian bedroom. Fashionable solutions in bed design need to be combined in style with the bedroom design.

DIY bedspread (video)

How to sew a bedspread yourself?

Sewing bedspreads with your own hands is not the most difficult thing. The design project you see can be brought to life with a little effort. The basis of a beautiful bedspread is a correctly selected pattern.

In the simplest case, it is a rectangle, to calculate the length and width of which you need to perform the following measurements:

• the length of the bed (from head to foot) and an allowance of 3.5 cm for a loose fit around the corners;
• width and allowance 3 cm;
• bed height - from the surface of the mattress to the floor or the desired height of the overhang of the edge of the bedspread.

The choice of model or style of bedspread should be dictated by the personal taste of the housewife herself.

The height measurement should be multiplied by 2 and added to the width measurement with allowance. Additionally, you need to take into account the hem allowance (about 7 cm). If the bed has 2 backs, then you won’t have to add anything to the length, but if there is a free edge at the foot, you will need to make an overhang here too. In this case, the value of its height and the allowance for hem of the edge (3.5 cm) are added to the length of the bed. If the bed does not have a headboard, then you will have to add the height value multiplied by 2 to the length, doubling the hem allowance.

Bedspread with frill

To make a pattern for a frilly bedspread, the same measurements for the height, length and width of the bed will do. But the rectangle that will lie on top of the bed should be built separately, guided by the values ​​​​for length and width, taking into account an allowance of another 2 cm for the seams when connecting the panel with the frill.

Cut the strips for the sides as indicated in the diagram: their width is equal to the desired length of the frill or the height of the bed, and the length should be 1.5-2 times the length of the side of the panel where it will be sewn. The splendor of the folds on the side overhangs depends precisely on the length of the strip (Fig. 1). If you want the bedspread to drape beautifully at the corners, then you need to add inserts (the corner part of the frill is in the diagram).

Complex bedspread

A two-tier frilly bedspread design is not as complicated as it might seem. The panel of the top layer must be cut out according to the diagram (Fig. 2). The edge is modeled individually; it can be made either straight or curly. If desired, the panel is made with a lining and filling made of a thin layer of padding polyester. In this version, it will be additionally decorated with curly stitch. Cut all 3 parts using one pattern.

The side overhangs of the lower tier are ordinary frills made of dark-colored fabric. The pattern for them is given in the previous section. Sew the frill strips to the underside of the panel when making the product.

How to make a path or cape?

A track is a narrow strip of contrasting color. It is placed along or across the bed; a diagonal arrangement is also possible. The bed path is cut out in the form of a rectangle of the desired width and length (Fig. 3). The dimensions of the product are chosen arbitrarily.

A cape is usually made for the headboard (Fig. 4). The raised element can be rigid, without finishing with upholstery fabric. In this case, the cape not only serves as a design element, but also serves as a soft pad between the sleeper’s head and the bed frame.

If the headboard has soft upholstery, but its color does not suit the designer, a cape helps hide this flaw. In this case, it is purely aesthetic in nature. A small removable part can also serve as protection for the headboard from dust and dirt.

You can cut out a cape for the headboard by measuring its length and width. Draw a rectangle so that the cape completely covers the front side of the headboard and can be folded onto the part facing the wall.

We bring the idea to life - we design the bedspread

To sew a bedspread of any model you need to prepare the following:

• textile;
• scissors;
• sewing machine;
• measuring instruments, chalk or pencil.

Based on a simple rectangle, you can make amazingly beautiful bedspreads for any style bedroom. The only difference will be in the decor. One of the simplest finishing options is ruffles.

The photo on the left (Fig. 5) shows 2 color schemes of the same style. In the first case, the result was a bedspread with a bright rainbow spot in the foreground and complementary applique on the panel and pillows (above). This design is suitable for rustic styles, decorating a nursery, and would be appropriate in a small bedroom if you choose a panel that matches the decor and curtains.

The same bedspread, made in white (below), would fit perfectly into a Victorian bedroom, shabby chic style, or would look great in a Mediterranean or colonial setting. A spacious bedroom, where there is no need to hide the size of the bed, will only benefit from a snow-white structure in the center of the composition.

By placing the ruffles differently, you can get a product of a different style, as in the photo on the right. For all its simplicity and lack of elaborate details, a modest gray, beige or other plain bedspread is suitable for both a teenager’s room and a strict Victorian setting. If desired, you can change this design by making the sewn ruffles multi-colored or making them from dark and light stripes.

DIY French folds (video)

How to make a bedspread with ruffle trim?

Cut out a rectangle for the base and trim its edges into a hem. Prepare material for frills: cut multi-colored or plain scraps of fabric into strips. If the strips are short, they need to be sewn together until the strip reaches the required length.

Finish the edges of the tape with a zigzag stitch or overcast them. Set the maximum stitch length, sew a straight stitch along the tape, along the center line or closer to one edge. Pull out one of the threads and gather the ribbon.

Mark the places where the ruffles will be sewn. If you choose the option of finishing one corner, you will need to draw arcs on the panel, starting with the smallest one. The distance between the lines should be equal to the width of the ruffle ribbon or slightly less than it. Lay the gathered strip so that the stitching in the center runs along the intended line, pin together and sew on a machine.

For the option with stripes of folds, lines can be drawn across, along, or diagonally across the panel. In the future, proceed in the same way as in the first case. The distance between the marking lines must be chosen so that the free edge of the strip covers the sewing area of ​​the previous tier.

How to sew a bedspread with a frill around the perimeter?

Prepare the central part: cut out a rectangle the size of the bed or a shaped part for a two-tier model. If required, mark decorative stitch lines and machine stitch the rectangle.

Cut out strips to create ruffles, hem the edges or use an overlock stitch. The stripes can be composite, as in the previous case. Depending on your personal desire, fold or gather folds along the upper edge of the frill strip.

Cut out the corner parts, bend them and, if necessary, trim them with ruffles, as indicated above. The corners of the bedspread for a double bed will look like in Fig. 6. Connect the frill stripes and corner elements. Fold the rectangular panel and the top edge of the tape with right sides facing each other, baste and stitch. The place where the frill is sewn can be additionally trimmed with decorative braid.

If you are planning a complex two-layer version, then the frill needs to be sewn from the inside out along the perimeter of the central part, leaving the overhangs free. The edges of the top layer can be tied together with bows, left loose, or attached to the bottom layer with decorative buttons. You can make the frill in the form of a valance, that is, do not sew it to the top layer, but secure it to the bed frame using Velcro or Velcro strips (Fig. 7).

Beautiful headboard cape

You can complement the stylish bedspread with capes. For the one shown in Fig. 8. The delicate floral detail required thick fabric for the base and thin transparent fabric for decoration.

Cut out a rectangle with a length equal to the width of the bed. The height of the headboard in this case is multiplied by 1.5 to be able to bend and secure the cape. You will need 2 of these parts - for the front part and the lining. You will need to cut 4 strips for ties, of arbitrary length and width. Sew along the perimeter of the base piece, while sewing in the ties: 2 in the corners on the back of the cape, 2 in the middle of the front (1/3 of the total width of the rectangle).

For finishing, mark out strips of flowers based on the location. Cut ribbons from organza equal in width to the distance between the decor. Gather both edges of each strip and sew onto the base, aligning the cuts with the marked lines.

Prepare braid or sew a narrow strip of organza. The decoration roses are made from a strip of the same fabric with an uneven edge, rolled into a roll. Sew each flower by hand to the prepared braid. Sew the finished piece along the edges so that it hides the place where the gathered organza strips are attached.

A beautiful designer item can appear in your bedroom interior if you spend a little time making it. The key to success will be accuracy and precision in performing all operations on cutting, assembling and finishing the bedspread.

Attention, TODAY only!

Modern fashion for home decoration is unique and unpredictable, but, as before, a special place in interior decoration is given to all kinds of blankets and bedspreads. Handmade is now gaining the most popularity - for example, a knitted blanket will help complement the palette of the room, add missing accents and create an atmosphere of warmth and comfort with your own hands. Such needlework takes quite a lot of time, but anyone can learn this skill, because it does not require special skills, such as, for example, for knitting clothes. It all depends on the idea itself - even the most ordinary and simple blankets, if you choose the right yarn, will look luxurious.

Wool and mohair are perfect for warm blankets that can keep you warm in the cold winter, while silk, cotton and viscose are useful for creating summer blankets.

“Granny squares” for making a blanket with your own hands

One of the most popular crochet motifs is the granny square. One scheme, but the flight of imagination is limitless. You can vary the colors, take different yarn, and each time you will get something new. You definitely won’t have any questions about how to knit an original blanket.

This motif is performed in a circle. First of all, you need to knit a chain of 6 air loops and connect it using a connecting post.

1 row. Knit 6 chain stitches: 3 chain stitches + 3 air loops according to the scheme:

Then knit 3 double crochets into a ring.

Next, 3 chain crochets, 3 double crochets, 3 chain crochets, 3 double crochets, 3 chain crochets and 2 double crochets. Connect the row with a connecting post, inserting the hook into the 3rd chain lifting loop of this row.

To start knitting the next row, knit 1 connecting stitch in an arch.

2nd row. 3 air loops of lifting, 2 double crochets in the arch from the air loop of the previous row, then 3 air loops and 3 double crochets in the same arch.

After this, knit 1 chain stitch and in the next arch from the chain loop of the previous row, knit 3 double crochets, 3 chain loops, 3 double crochets. Continue knitting in this manner until the end of the row.

3rd row. Knit 4 chain stitches, then into the arch from the chain stitch of the previous row, knit 3 double crochets, 3 chain loops, 3 double crochets.

We knit 1 chain stitch and 3 double crochets into the next arch from the chain stitch of the previous row. 1 chain stitch, 3 double crochets, 3 chain crochets, 3 double crochets into the corner arch from the chain stitch of the previous row. Repeat 2 more times.

Subsequent rows are knitted in the same way until the desired size of the square itself.

The motifs are stitched together in any convenient way.

The main thing here is to avoid mistakes, sew carefully and firmly enough.

An example of stitching with a needle can be seen in the photo:

In addition to knitted blankets, patchwork blankets are now in fashion. The popularity of such products is quite clear: they look bright and catchy, but at the same time create an atmosphere of warmth and comfort. Decorative elements made using patchwork technique can give the room originality and an unsurpassed look.

We use bright scraps with work patterns

In order to sew a blanket from scraps yourself, you will need bright fabric for patchwork and about 2 meters of simple plain fabric. For a blanket you will need 35 squares.

How to sew such a cute product? From bright fabric you need to cut 4 squares, the size of which will be 12.5 × 12.5 cm. White fabric should be cut into transverse strips 7.5 cm wide.

Take a colored flap in your hands and place the white stripes overlapping around it. Using a 6 mm stitch, sew the strips to the square and press the seams. You should get a square 25x25 cm.

Repeat with the remaining scraps until you have 28 squares.

You can sew them in any order - here your imagination runs wild. The patches can be sewn diagonally, in a checkerboard pattern, alternating squares by size.

After stitching, you need to iron the patchwork blanket and sew the lining to it. In addition, you can sew the blanket with straight lines - this will add an interesting “wrinkled” effect to it, the blanket will become softer and more pleasant to the touch. For even greater decorativeness, you can sew on an edge, which can be a double folded braid.

Second life for a sweater with description

An interesting idea is a blanket made from sweaters. If you have a few sweaters in mind that have become impossible to wear on people, but it’s a shame to throw them away, you can sew a wonderful warm designer blanket.

A blanket measuring 150x180 cm takes about 12 sweaters of the same color scheme.

First of all, you need to cut off all the labels from them, remove zippers and buttons. Next you need to cut out the parts. This can be done by preparing two square templates - sides 26.5 cm and 14 cm.