A bath with an attic is one of the best solutions for summer cottages, it allows you not only to take water procedures, but also to use the premises as a summer cottage. We have chosen a project with a perimeter of 6 × 6 meters, we believe that such a bath will satisfy developers both in terms of price and comfort.

A frame bath, during the selection of materials and technologies, we tried to minimize financial losses while maintaining optimal quality.

Building element	Illustration	Description
Foundation.		Shallow reinforced tape, belt depth ≈0.8 m, sand cushion ≈30 cm thick, height at the base 50 cm, width 40 cm. This type of foundation can be installed for all climatic zones. You can simplify it a little, taking into account the specific physical characteristics of the soil and weather conditions.
Bearing structures.		For the top and bottom strapping and floor beams, use boards of 50 × 150 mm, for rafters, boards of 50 × 200 mm.
Internal partitions of the bath.		The internal partitions of the bath are sheathed with clapboard, the attic partitions are sheathed with plasterboard plates.
Doors and windows.		Doors and windows are fiberglass, there is a possibility - it is better to make wood.
		A revolving flight staircase leads to the second floor, the material of manufacture is natural boards.
Roof.		The roof is made of ondulin, but bituminous shingles can also be taken. We do not recommend using a metal roof - there is too much noise during a downpour.
Insulation.		Glass wool was used for insulation, the thickness of the insulation layer was 150 mm. The steam and waterproofing of the bath is made using foil.

Description of the project of a bath with an attic

The bathhouse has a relaxation room with an area of ​​12.5 m2, a bathroom of 4.6 m2, an entrance hall of 5.5 m2 and a steam room with a washing room of 8.5 m2. The height of all rooms is 2.5 meters. As you can see, the area and the list of premises allow four or more people to be in the bath at the same time, while everyone will feel quite comfortable. And the bathroom can be used by vacationers in the attic.

On the second floor, the attic has two bedrooms of 10 m2 each, a dressing room and a hall of 3 m2. Exit to the second floor by a marching rotary staircase made of wood. The roof is gable, the rafter system is made using vertical supports (headstock). The props will be hidden in the interior partitions of the attic.

Construction stages

As can be seen from the project, the bath must have a water supply and a sewerage system. These features should be taken into account when choosing the location of the object, first think over the methods of construction of utilities. In this case, the requirements of building codes and regulations should be taken into account.

Foundation

Before starting construction, you need to prepare the site: remove the fertile soil layer and make a layout. As we already said, our foundation will be shallow reinforced tape. Holes for ventilation and engineering systems must be provided in the tape.

Step 1. Mark the area according to the foundation plan.

Mark the foundation tape. To do this, drive wooden pegs around the perimeter of the building, check the dimensions and angles. Check the angles by measuring the diagonals, the spread in the values ​​of the diagonals should not exceed 2 ÷ 3 cm, this error can be easily corrected during the construction of the frame. The area should be as flat as possible. The width of the foundation is 40 centimeters. If the soil on the site is dense, it is not worth making the internal formwork, the trench can be dug the same width as according to the plan.

DIY strip foundation - markup

If the soil is sandy, increase the width of the trench by at least twenty centimeters on each side to install the formwork.

Formwork - scheme

Solve the issue of land utilization. There are two options: level it under the entire bath or take it to another place. It is difficult to give specific advice here, it all depends on the characteristics of the landscape of the site. In some cases, it is more advisable to add a bed of waterlogged places, in other cases it is better to leave the land under the bath.

At the same time, determine the location of the foundation for the stove and a small septic tank for collecting water under the steam room and washing room. It is better to place small septic tanks as close as possible to the foundation tape.

Step 2. From building reinforcement of a periodic profile Ø 8 ÷ 10 mm, tie a metal frame for concrete reinforcement.

It is very important: the frame must be poured from all sides with a layer of concrete at least five centimeters thick. Otherwise, thin concrete from stresses can crack and in these places the strength of the foundation will significantly deteriorate.

The frame can be torn off the ground with ordinary stones, if the netting falls to one side - insert stones of the appropriate thickness between it and the formwork.

Rebar prices

fittings

Video - Reinforcement and formwork of a shallow strip foundation

Step 3. Dig a trench 80 centimeters deep, pour sand up to 30 cm thick on the bottom, level and tamp it. The sand cushion will compensate for the rise / fall of the ground when the ground is frozen. Lower the reinforcing mesh into the trench. If you have to make the formwork for the earthen part of the tape, then it is advisable to make it immediately to the entire height of the foundation (50 centimeters above the ground). Pay great attention to the fastening of the formwork, one must withstand the weight of the concrete and not change its linearity.

Step 4. Pour concrete evenly around the entire perimeter. Ideally, the entire foundation is poured in one day. Does not work? Then do not allow large differences in the height of the concrete, level it. Continue pouring the next day. Align the top under the level; in the corners of the bath, the height of the foundation cannot differ by more than a centimeter.

Step 5... Give the concrete time to set. If the weather is very hot, water it generously every morning with water. The curing time of the concrete is at least two weeks. Do not rush to remove the formwork, do not risk the strength of the foundation.

Step 6. Carefully remove the formwork, cover the foundation strip with two layers of roofing material, press it with stones and leave it in this state for some time.

During this time, clean the timber formwork from the remnants of concrete and dirt - all of them will still be useful during the construction of the bath. Prepare materials for construction, bring up the missing ones.

And one more important work. We have chosen a more "modern" version of the bath with an attic, in which we have provided a toilet room. You can, of course, use an outdoor toilet, but today it is already considered obscene, especially for those who have chosen a rather expensive option for a bath. The construction of a comfortable toilet will increase the total cost of the facility by only a few percent, this is an insignificant amount. Due to the fact that we have not yet considered the topic of the toilet room, we will dwell on it in detail.

Cement prices M400

cement M400

Sewerage system construction

The sewerage system consists of pipelines and septic tanks. It is more profitable to carry out earthwork simultaneously with the foundations - there is a tool, and "helpers", and the sand from the foundation remained. In addition, you can simultaneously carry out all the landscaping work.

Step 1. Decide on the location of the septic tank, take into account the norms of SNiP 2.04.03–85. When choosing a site for installing a septic tank, try to keep the site with a slight slope towards the bath. If this does not work out - not a problem, you will make the slope of the pipe a trench.

File for free download - BUILDING STANDARDS AND RULES. SEWERAGE. OUTDOOR NETWORKS AND STRUCTURES.

Step 2. Pull a thread from the bath to the installation site of the septic tank, check the horizontalness with the water level. Technical requirements recommend making the slope of the sewer pipes up to 3 ″. One ppm is a 1 cm drop per meter, you need a slope of approximately three centimeters per meter of pipe.

Step 3. Dig a trench. How to check the slope? At the beginning and at the end of the trench, drive in the pegs, mark the level of the horizon on them. Measure the depth of the trench from the horizon (not from the surface of the earth!), It should be within the recommended values.

If you plan to use the toilet room only in the summer, the depth of the pipes does not matter. But we do not recommend going such an "easy way", over time it is possible to install a heating bath and use it all year round, and this will require using the toilet in a completely different mode. It is better to immediately lay the sewage system to the depth of freezing, this will slightly complicate the work, but then nothing will have to be redone.

Step 4. Dig a hole for the septic tank.

Practical advice. You shouldn't buy expensive industrial septic tanks. For a family of four, it is enough to use an ordinary 200-liter barrel, it will have to be cleaned at least ten years later.

And this is with the constant use of the toilet room, but what about the bath? Make holes in the barrel around the entire perimeter and at the bottom to drain the liquid fraction. For your information, it takes about a hundred years for one centimeter of soil to form. During this time, the decayed vegetation forms a layer of solid humus of the specified thickness. The same time frame is needed for sewer fractions, and the barrel height is more than a meter.

Step 5. Pour a small layer of sand on the bottom of the trench, it will certainly remain after the foundation. The sand is only needed to make the load more even on the bottom of the plastic pipe. Put the pipe down, connect it to the barrel.

Step 6. If there are no stones in the ground, you can fill the trench right away, if there are stones, you will have to protect the pipe with sand from above. Make any cover for the septic tank.

And one more remark. Do not believe all the tales on the forums that a large slope of the sewer pipe will cause it to silt. Have you ever seen a river with a fast current and a muddy bottom? While you were working on the sewerage system, the foundation was completely "prepared" for further construction work.

Septic tank prices

Frame erection

The frame will be made of boards 50 × 150 mm, insulation - mineral wool. The steam room and the washing room must be carefully insulated; you can use modern non-woven materials, plastic wrap or aluminum foil. Sheathing - natural lining, OSB boards or plywood. We have given calculations for some materials, but you can take others according to your preferences. Construction technology does not change from this, but the cost will help increase / decrease significantly.

Step 1. Make the bottom strapping with 50 × 150 mm boards. Boards are laid on a waterproofing layer. The boards have a standard length of six meters, respectively, they do not need to be connected anywhere except for the corners. Make a half-tree connection in the corners. You can fix it with a dowel, nails or self-tapping screws. Immediately put the floor beams, the distance between them is up to 80 centimeters, for the beams you can use boards 50 × 150 or 50 × 100. The specific values ​​depend on what loads the floor will be designed for.

Job title	Photo
Foundation waterproofing
Corner connection of the bottom rail	Half-tree longitudinal connection
Floors - installation of lag

Step 2. Mark the locations of the window and door openings. The marking is done according to the size of the window and door frames, leave a gap of 2 ÷ 3 centimeters to facilitate installation. These cracks are then closed up.

In the photo - openings in the frame wall

Step 3. Prepare vertical posts at all corners of the building, check their length and install on the top rail. Recheck the height using the water level, adjust the supports if necessary. At the bottom, you can fix them with metal corners, temporarily reinforce them in height with side struts.

Step 4. Pull a rope between them and place all the other uprights under it. Temporarily fix the position by trimming the boards. Don't forget about windows and doors.

The jibs must rest against something rigid to ensure proper stability. The most correct option is to support them in the harness at the top, to the floor at the bottom


Jibs (in the corners to fix the racks)

Step 5. Make the top strapping from 50 × 150 mm boards, check the position again and fix the structure firmly. For fastening, you can use the same metal corners. To increase the stability of the structure, it is very desirable to make inclined stops from the boards in several places. The work will take a little time, and the whole structure will become more reliable.

Top harness - photo

Step 6... Install the floor beams of the second floor, mark the location of windows and doors on them. Further, all operations are similar to those described above. Lay a temporary attic floor right away, this will greatly facilitate the installation of the rafter system.

Roof construction

The attic requires a careful approach to the arrangement of the roof. It should be not only warm (this goes without saying), but also stable. In addition, the vertical racks under the rafter legs (headstock) should be placed in such places so that later they can hide in the lining of the attic interior partitions. We have a gable roof under the ondulin. How to do it?

Step 1. On the ground from the planks, make a rafter leg template. Pay attention to the slope angle.

Another way to determine the angle of the roof slope is to determine the ratio between the height from the floor to the ridge and half the width of the floor.

Too large an angle of inclination will require a significant increase in financial costs, and too small an angle will reduce the height of the attic.

Estimate the size and position of the template along the entire length of the bath, if necessary, correct its parameters. At the same time, make marks for sawing the rafter thrust pads into the upper harness. Very important: the rafters must be positioned above the uprights.

Step 2. Collect the entire set of rafters on the ground, feed them to the top of the bath. Install the two outer rafter legs, pull the thread on the ridge, check all dimensions and spatial position again. Lock your legs.

Step 3. Install all the rafters in turn, temporarily knock them out from below with trim boards. Check their position and fasten securely.

Step 4. You can proceed to the crate. We chose ondulin as a roof covering, it does not differ in great physical stability. Ondulin must be attached to the batten of 20 × 50 mm laths, calculate the distance between the laths yourself, based on four for each sheet. We cannot give exact advice - various manufacturers change the linear parameters of the sheets.

Step 5. Roofing. Due to the fact that the attic roof is insulated with mineral wool, every effort must be made to prevent it from getting wet. Under the ondulin, you should put a waterproofing protection, choose any material, the main thing is reliability. The waterproofing should be laid from the bottom up, the overlap of the rows is at least ten centimeters.

Make a marking of the rows of ondulin, if there is not enough experience in the production of roofing work - we advise you to beat off the installation line of the following sheets on the hydro-coating through the row. Fight back with a rope with blue, it will not take much time, and the work will speed up significantly.

Install plums, snow guards, ridge and other additional elements of the drainage system; use special nails to fasten the ondulin.

Exact fulfillment of all points of the ONDULINE installation instructions is a guarantee of your success

Step 6. It is best to install skylights at this stage. This is a rather "fashionable and convenient", but "expensive and complex" element of the attic. There is a desire - install, during the production of work strictly adhere to the manufacturer's instructions. While there is no insulation, the work is easier to do, the installation will be of better quality and safety. We chose the project simpler, for lighting the premises, windows are installed in the gables. One in the middle in the attic hallway and one for each bedroom on the sides.

Step 7. Roof insulation. The thickness of the mineral wool should be at least 15 cm if you plan to use the premises in the winter and up to 10 centimeters if you are planning a summer version of the attic. It is imperative to make the insulation vapor barrier, you can use modern roll materials or ordinary plastic wrap. The main thing is that the steam should not condense on cotton wool, this is fraught not only with a decrease in heat-saving characteristics. Moisture has a very negative effect on all wooden structures in contact with cotton wool.

Wall insulation

Work should start from the outside of the bath - you need to quickly protect it from precipitation. Proceed with insulation only in dry warm weather, mineral wool should not come into contact with rain. The thickness of the insulation is within 15 cm, fix the wooden shelves between the vertical posts (do not forget about the windows and doors!), Insert the cotton wool tightly, does not leave gaps and gaps.

Exterior walls can be finished with a variety of materials, from cheap profiled sheets to expensive natural lining. What you choose is up to you. The main thing is not to forget to make waterproofing for the insulation. Before you start upholstering the walls, it and the doors must already be installed. To decorate the openings, you need to purchase decorative platbands. We emphasize once again - carry out the work very carefully, the ingress of atmospheric moisture under the outer skin should be completely excluded.

Internal walls are sheathed using the same technology, only instead of waterproofing the insulation, you need to make a vapor barrier. Particular attention is paid to the steam room, where the most difficult conditions for building structures.

Floors

Two floor options should be made - for the steam room and for other rooms and the attic.

There are big problems on the ground floor. The fact is that during washing, a large amount of warm water will fall into the underground space. The air will not be able to instantly ventilate the space, the steam will inevitably rise up and condense on all structures of the building. There is a high probability that the insulation under the floor in the recreation room, hallway and bathroom will absorb moisture with all extremely negative consequences.

We offer several solutions to the problem:

• even during the construction of the foundations, you can completely fence off the steam room using an ordinary concrete tape around the perimeter of the steam room. It is quite laborious and time consuming, but reliable;
• use foam as insulation. He is not afraid of moisture, but there are certain questions about the safety for the health of residents;
• do not insulate the floors on the first floor of the bath. They can be installed with modern carpets, thicker floorboards, etc.

Choose a solution yourself, while taking into account the maximum number of existing factors.

In the steam room, water should be drained, the floor should be made of grooved or ordinary edged boards. Make a slight slope (about 2 ÷ 3 °) of the floor in the steam room, install a grate for receiving water. In other rooms, the floors are installed according to the usual technology.

Ceiling

Again the problem with the steam room. In this room, the vapor barrier of the insulation must be carried out especially carefully. To protect the insulation, we recommend using two materials at the same time. First, protect the mineral wool with ordinary plastic wrap, now you can purchase it in one wide piece, which will allow you to close the ceiling without seams. It costs a penny, and you will sleep peacefully. On top of it, you need to nail down and aluminum foil. Cover the joints of the foil with silicate glue, and then seal it with special or ordinary tape. The fact is that scotch tape, under the influence of steam and high temperature, quickly loses its adhesion properties, and silicate glue will be an additional insurance.

If there was an ordinary attic above the steam room, then such precautions would be superfluous. In the case of an attic room, it is better to play it safe even at the stage of building a bath, than to make expensive major repairs later with the replacement of load-bearing structures.

Interior wall cladding

It is better to sheathe the first floor of the bath with natural clapboard. Let this option do not belong to the "budget", but in all respects, natural lining leaves far behind all other modern materials. The lining must be fixed to wooden slats 20 × 50 mm, the distance between the slats is 40 ÷ 50 centimeters. How to make clapboard cladding?

Step 1. Make a mark on the wall, check it for large irregularities.

Step 2. Nail two vertical slats on the outer sides of the room, pull a rope between them and all the rest are installed. If problems arise, substitute lining under the slats or level the wall a little.

Step 3. Check the dimensions of the wall. It can have different heights at the corners of the room, which means that the last lining must be cut at an angle. Our advice: cut not the last (top), but the first (bottom) lining - the cut will be invisible near the floor.

Step 4. Nail the lining with small studs no more than two centimeters long, hold the nail at an angle, drive it into the groove in the lining.

Step 5. Repeat the above operations on all walls of the room.

Very important: in the steam room, do not forget to provide vapor protection. It is highly desirable to do it double, but you can do with only aluminum foil.

Step 6. Nail in the ceiling (baguettes) and floor skirting boards, install decorative profile wooden slats in the corners. The baguette in the corners needs to be cut down, but the filing angle is not always exactly 90 °. There are special tools for cutting at right angles in stores. If you do not have it, then it is not difficult to do this yourself.

But what if the corners of the rooms do not have 90 °, how to make the junction of the skirting boards or the baguette even and beautiful?

1. Align the ends of the skirting boards strictly at an angle of 90 °. The fact is that during transportation or manufacturing, these angles can be violated.
2. Place the skirting board against one wall and press firmly against the ceiling, the skirting board should rest against the adjoining wall. Draw a line slightly longer than the width of the baseboard along the edge of the skirting board on the ceiling.
3. Do the same operation near the other wall. There will be two lines on the ceiling, the beginning of the cut should be at the point of their intersection, and the end should be in the center of the corner of the walls. Apply the plinth in turn on each side, draw a cutting line and cut along it.

This simple method will allow you to tightly connect decorative elements on walls with different angles. If you do not have the practice of performing such operations, then we advise you to practice on the segments, and only then take the whole element. All the same, there are cracks - no problem, fill them with putty. Just keep in mind that a professional master will notice any putty.

Prices for wooden skirting boards

wooden plinth

Video - Cutting moldings or skirting boards

Installation of windows and doors

We advise you to use plastic windows and doors, they look pretty good even in a bath. Remember to leave a few centimeters of space at the top for shrinkage during installation. The frame bath does not have a large shrinkage, minor changes in dimensions can only occur as a result of shrinkage of the supporting wooden structures. Then you can start installing the stove, finishing the bathroom, finishing the walls, sanding the floor, etc.

Video - Windows in a frame house

Video - Frame bath in two floors

The bathhouse has long ceased to perform only one utilitarian function: today it is a primordially Russian building - and an important decorative element of landscape design, and a place for good rest, and a kind of health center. And more and more people have recently been trying to build a two-story bathhouse in their dacha, making it a real entertainment complex.

This has its own rational grain: this is how much space is saved on the site, and on the second floor of the bath, you can equip not only a billiard room or a recreation room, but also a summer bedroom for spending the night in the country. As a result, such construction is much cheaper than building a country house in the neighborhood. And even more profitable is to build not two-story baths, but baths with an attic.

Why make an attic in the bathhouse?

It is not for nothing that people of a bohemian lifestyle lived in the very first attics of the world: artists, musicians, poets. Indeed, in this quiet and bright room it is pleasant to relax and communicate, especially after hot bath procedures. But the very design of this room can be very different and unusual - not necessarily only in the form of a table and benches.

The attic in the bath is:

• Luxurious billiard room with a fridge stocked with beer and sandwiches.
• Country-style living room with wicker furnishings and floral curtains.
• SPA-salon with modern expensive equipment for tanning, hydro-massage and aromatherapy.
• An oriental corner with luxurious carpets and cushions on the floor instead of furniture.
• An aqua center for fishing enthusiasts: mesh curtains with clip crabs, fresh turquoise on the walls, whitewashed floorboards and massive yacht-style furniture.

If you rationalize the attic space, it can even be made a living room instead of a whole summer cottage where you can periodically spend the night.

But, in general, the advantages of a bath with an attic can be distinguished as follows:

• Excellent appearance of the bath, more reminiscent of not a steam room, but a cozy country house.
• A slight increase in the weight of the bath, for which it is not necessary to build such a powerful foundation as under a bath with two floors.
• A tangible reduction in heat losses due to the presence of a second floor.
• No need for special heating of the attic due to the heat coming from the bottom.

And the bathhouse made of a log with an attic looks especially impressive, from which it breathes with special comfort and security and which in some way resembles an ancient noble estate.

Features of the construction of the attic in the bath

For example, projects of wooden baths with an attic are much simpler than those of full-fledged two-story ones, but they are in no way inferior in functionality and thoughtfulness. That is why a photo of baths with an attic can be found today in fashion magazines on landscape design much more often than solid bulky structures. After all, the Russian bath has always been characterized by lightness of design and compactness, and therefore people are simply not ready to make mansions out of it. But the attic is no worse than the second floor - on the contrary, the load on the foundation is much less.

It's good if an additional floor was planned at the design stage of a bath with an attic and a veranda - then you can make the most accurate calculation of the supporting structures. So, the attic frame is made of horizontal rafters - the basis of the future ceiling and uprights - the basis of the walls. Slate is most suitable as a roofing material, because it does not heat up in the sun. And the optimal in this case will be such an angle of inclination of the rafters –30-60?, And the greater it is in this range, the less useful area of ​​the attic will remain. In general, the normal width of this room is at least 3 meters, and the height is from 2.2 meters. And the best roof for an attic is a multi-layer broken structure, which consists of a roof, solid waterproofing, insulation, lathing, vapor barrier and interior decoration.

One of the possible projects of a bathhouse with an attic floor

But if initially a bathhouse with an attic and a terrace was not planned to be built, then later all the difficulties of adding it will be associated with the location of the stairs and windows. In this case, only a screw model that goes through a hatch in the attic can be successful. It will also be difficult to cut windows, and for a normal microclimate of the room they will need to be in a ratio of 8: 1. But everything can be solved.

Most often, a bathhouse with an attic is erected from a bar, already according to a finished project, or by a combination of materials: the first floor is made of logs, and the second is made of a wooden structure. But modern ones with an attic, sheathed with beautiful siding, look no worse. But the brick ones do resemble an architectural masterpiece.

How to finish building an attic on an existing bathhouse?

A bath with an attic can be built in three ways:

• On the finished, long-used bathhouse, the side walls are being completed in height.
• The existing attic room of the bathhouse is being retrofitted into a residential one.
• The attic is equipped with a special roof shape.

The easiest way to complete a bath from scratch is a timber bath - with an attic of a wooden structure, it practically does not change its weight, and an ideal rectangular layout allows you to avoid unnecessary costs. In addition, if the second floor will also be used constantly, then it makes sense, after laying the interfloor overlap, to finish building the walls 1-1.2 meters in height, and only after that erect the gables.

How to escape from moisture - arrangement of a vapor barrier

The attic above the bathhouse is not at all the same as the second floor above an ordinary room. It's all about the temperature and humidity conditions, which are significantly different from normal conditions. After all, the main problem of the second floor of the bath is high humidity. After all, a lot of steam comes from below, from the steam room, and therefore a special layer for such a building is simply necessary. If the sauna attic is arranged as usual, it will always be too stuffy and humid in it. And therefore, the cake of the interfloor overlap here should be like this: from the side of the bath, from the bottom, a vapor barrier must be placed (it can be foil or film), then a heater, and on top of it there is already a finished floor. The "pie" will look something like this if you look at it from the bottom up:

1. Finishing ceiling: lining, stretch or gypsum board.
2. Draft ceiling.
3. Vapor barrier: film or foil.
4. Thermal insulation: basalt wool between the rafters.
5. Ventilated bottom gap - 50 mm.
6. Roofing membrane - Tyvek, Isospan or Utah.
7. The upper ventilation gap is also 50 mm.
8. Lathing.
9. Roof covering.

In addition, all wooden elements of a log bath with an attic must be carefully treated with fire retardants and antiseptics. Before starting the insulation, it is important to make sure that all its supporting structures are in order - cracks and minor flaws need to be caulked or sealed with polyurethane foam.

If, however, a metal tile was chosen as a roof over such a veranda, the film under it is simply necessary - so that condensation does not accumulate on its inner surface. And the ventilated space between the insulation and the roof itself will significantly extend the life of the truss structure - after all, the tree will breathe.

You can also build a more budgetary option: take an ordinary reinforced film as a vapor barrier and seal its joints with tape. And as insulation, use Ursu for the floor, for the walls - slab insulation, placed in space between the existing frame racks. The cheapest of them are Knauf, Techno and Rocklight.

Warming - internal and external options

The attic of the bath can be insulated either externally or internally. Each of these methods has pros and cons, but the choice of insulation will depend more on the construction method. For example, external insulation is most advisable, when the interlayer is laid in the floors and walls of the structure - but this can be done only during the construction of the bath itself with an attic made of timber, and not after it.

If you are interested in knowing what costs are required for bath insulation, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video

But if the steam room was built a long time ago, and the attic is being insulated only now, then you can resort to the internal method. But here it is important not to achieve a greenhouse effect - for this it is necessary to take care of waterproofing between floors and a reliable ventilation system. As a heater, mineral and basalt wool, a heatphone with aluminum foil, isospan and foam sheets are suitable. On top of it, waterproofing with decorative finishing panels is laid. As for basalt wool, according to SNiPs for the Moscow region, for example, you need to take at least 20 cm.But in practice, it turns out that even at 15 cm it is very warm on such a roof.

As for the decoration of the attic walls, the best option is a lining made of coniferous wood - simple and reliable in use, it is mounted very quickly and requires a minimum of effort. A good alternative to them can be modern plastic panels that amaze the imagination with a variety of colors and textures - with their help you can create any interior design. And, finally, sometimes drywall sheets are used to decorate this room, which will need to be plastered or painted in the future.

It remains only to take care of the safety of the stairs to the attic - after all, after the steam room, a person can be in a relaxed state, which is why they will slip for a short time. Therefore, the staircase should be as comfortable and safe as possible: the angle of rise, the material of manufacture, the enclosing parts. It can even be made the central and most striking element of the steam room design - and the photos of the bath with the attic will be no worse than on the pages of glossy magazines.

The desire to put a bathhouse in his personal plot at least once arose in almost every owner of private housing. After all, its versatile value, ranging from health benefits to aesthetic advantages in the exterior of the site, no one doubts. Therefore, someone has already fulfilled their dream for a long time, and someone is just going to start its implementation, looking for opportunities, choosing the internal arrangement of the building, its functionality, design, thinking through the stages of construction. In this good aspiration, a special place is occupied by the layouts of baths with an attic for small areas. They have a number of undoubted advantages against the background of simple one-story solutions, the nuances of design, construction and use.

Why does the bathhouse need an attic superstructure?

Often, such architectural layouts are chosen, initially guided by their functionality, as well as design features:

• the use of a common foundation that allows you to combine a hygienic (1st floor) and a recreation area under the roof, for example, for tea drinking or a billiard room, saves land under the area of ​​the building spot;
• a larger project, such as a 6x6 bathhouse with an attic, can already become a fully functional option for a plot of several acres. It is able to play both the role of a place for water procedures and accommodation, and for large private areas with separate full-fledged housing, such a layout is able to solve the problem of accommodating guests;
• two-level structures often include terraces (verandas, loggias or balconies), where it is pleasant to relax while contemplating the surroundings;
• they allow the creation of aesthetically correct architectural forms. For example, the same project of a bathhouse with an attic and a terrace, guided by the requirements of landscape design, is much easier to adapt in many areas, as a complete solution, in contrast to separate one-story steam rooms.

Advantages of projects of baths equipped with attics

1. The first thing that engineers always talk about when erecting mansard superstructures is a significant reduction in the load on the load-bearing foundation, in comparison with the construction of a full-fledged second floor.

The bath complex is no exception, unless you are thinking of a light frame. For him, the difference between the mass of the whole floor or the under-roof operated premises is not so significant. By the way, when the strength of the foundation raises concerns, it is the frame technology that is most favorable if it is necessary to complete the rooms above the reconstructed object.

Therefore, for most projects of baths with an attic, various economical pre-fabricated ones are suitable: columnar, screw, MLP. Naturally, it is necessary to take into account the type of building, as well as the properties of the soil. So, for a brick structure on heaving soils, either powerful piles or a buried reinforced foundation tape may already be needed.

1. The base and the roof, which are common on both levels, save construction investments, in comparison with the addition of auxiliary rooms or terraces.
2. The attic in the bathhouse allows you to optimize heating costs. Firstly, a significant proportion of heat energy, rising upward with air currents, is dissipated through the roof (25% -30%). Therefore, the material consumption of roof or roof insulation is higher than that of walls, since thicker layers of insulation are required. Secondly, from the point of view of the minimum ratio of the outer surface to the inner volume, a building that is close in shape to a cube (a building with under-roof rooms) loses heat more slowly. It is faster and cheaper to heat it up than a one-story one with auxiliary rooms docked on the side.

In addition, taking into account the tendency of thermal energy to move upward, it is possible to simplify heating the room under the roof by correctly ensuring the air flow from the first floor to the top.

1. The layout solution "bath house with an attic" allows to simplify the laying, operation, regulation of communication systems (ventilation, heating). The use of vertically oriented risers or main lines is more convenient than numerous horizontal branches.

Features of design solutions

Even before starting the development or searching for a suitable ready-made design solution for self-construction, it is a good idea to pay attention to some of the design features of the structures we are considering.

Ladder

It is always one of the main negative arguments among the opponents of superstructure floors. Naturally, no one will dispute the fact that the staircase in the bathhouse to the attic will occupy squares of space, which are especially valuable when creating compact architectural forms. However, since we have found numerous other counterbalancing advantages, then you should choose an option for yourself, taking into account the characteristics of different systems:

1. Marching stairs are the most comfortable, functional and safe. Take up more space than other types. It is difficult to adapt them in small areas, for example, if you have a 4x4 m layout.
2. Bolt - have all the advantages of marching structures. They are not suitable for frame buildings, since they require a strong load-bearing wall, to which the support pins of the steps must be attached.
3. Screw - the most inconvenient, albeit spectacular, take up a minimum of space. Often they can help out if you have a compact project of a 5 by 5 bathhouse with an attic or, even more so, 4x4 m.

Features of the geometry of attics

When choosing, it is necessary to take into account the limited internal area of ​​the object. After all, it turns out to be not too big. Therefore, in order to create a more or less functional floor, it is undesirable to use a pitched roof. The gable is also not the most convenient option, since even for a 6x6 m building, in order to effectively use the space under the slopes, they will have to be made too steep, and this will have a negative effect on the wind resistance and material consumption of the entire structure.

The optimal choice of the type of covering for a bathhouse house with an attic tends to a broken gable roof or to the device of an upper half-storey operated room.

Choosing projects for construction with our own hands

When you already understand the main points of creating your personal bath and household complex, you can come to grips with design issues. Taking into account the fact that for individual use, structures that are small in size and have a rather limited variability of layouts are often considered, it is easier to take as a basis a ready-made solution that best meets the needs of the owner. Then, no one interferes with any architectural idea you like, adjusting a little to personal preferences. You can, for example, move or add partitions, or slightly change the outer dimensions of the object.

At the stage of working out the geometric parameters of the future construction plan, it is important to take into account not only user characteristics. It has already been said above that the issue of heat conservation is especially important for a bathhouse. Therefore, as well as a cubic arrangement in volume and a square in a plane are optimal energy-efficient shapes. Consequently, a house with a square-shaped plan will cool down more slowly. Let's analyze some of them based on small typical projects.

Compact projects 4x4 m

Practically some of the smallest architectural solutions that the owners of even the smallest plots can orient themselves to. However, despite the fact that the construction will require only a little more than 16 m 2 of territory, it is quite capable of coping with the tasks assigned to it. A 4 by 4 bathhouse with an attic already on the ground floor accommodates all the necessary target premises: a steam room, a washing room and a relaxation room. If desired, the rest room can be moved upstairs by placing there a not too bulky sofa or a couple of armchairs plus a small table, and equip the lower entrance area as a dressing room. It is enough to mount an additional partition in it, which will reduce heat loss in winter. Using the upper level for relaxation will also allow the bottom to allocate space for a bathroom or storage of inventory.

With proper arrangement, such a compact project is not only suitable to create a place for hygiene and relaxation with regular use by a small family. It is already quite capable of providing additional territory where the owners can freely accommodate visiting relatives or acquaintances.

We choose 5x5 m

In fact, a 5 by 5 bathhouse with an attic is just a slightly enlarged analogue of the 4x4 m design solution. A slightly expanded area does not add much to the choice of zoning space on the ground floor. However, the "extra" squares will allow to expand the boundaries of the washing room or rest room, which will significantly increase the user comfort of the owners, even taking into account the fact that their guests will also be lovers of bath procedures. The washing room is already able to accommodate not just a shower stall and a small font, but a couple of shower types (regular and contrast) and a comfortable font.

When redeveloping a project, moving partitions in order to increase the volume of individual rooms, do not forget that this is not always advisable. For example, the main trump card of a steam room is not its size, but the ability to maintain a sufficiently high stable temperature. Thermal balance is more difficult to regulate, and heating costs will increase significantly if the steam room is too large. Therefore, it is better to leave the steam room as small as possible.

If we consider the upper level of the structure, then from this side the project of a 5 by 5 bathhouse with an attic provides the possibilities of internal arrangement somewhat wider than similar structures that are smaller in terms of plan. Under the roof, you can get a pretty solid billiard room with a professional table or a secluded room, separated from the staircase and the exit to the balcony.

When assembling the interfloor overlap, one should responsibly treat the issue of its strength, especially if the active operation of the attic tier is assumed. It is recommended to use a board with a size of at least 150 * 50 mm installed on the edge as beam elements. If there is no intermediate support of the beams on the load-bearing partitions of the 1st floor, it is better to use ribs with a height of 200 mm.

Layout 6x6 m

This type of layout is also often chosen by owners of small parcels. At the same time, although the project of a 6x6 bathhouse with an attic can be attributed to an average architectural solution for such buildings, the structure erected on its basis is already a fairly full-fledged structure. On the one hand, it is still not too expensive, but on the other hand, it is capable of providing full comfort to the owners. The area allotted for building fully accommodates both all the main internal and external premises, for example, with terraces on both floors. If a project with terraces is chosen, then it is no longer necessary to allocate space on the site for the construction of a gazebo. The veranda and loggia, protected from precipitation, are always ready for cozy gatherings in the fresh air.

If the layout of 6x6 m is developed for the sake of the internal arrangement, then there is enough space to separate the spacious recreation room from the entrance corridor on the lower floor, provide a compartment for storing firewood, a toilet, or even mount a volumetric font like a mini-pool in the washing room. The attic in the bathhouse is zoned into fairly comfortable guest rooms for organizing a gym, home cinema or other target premises.

What else to look for when building a bath with an attic with your own hands

After resolving issues related to the design planning of the building, you still have a number of important organizational and installation stages:

• decide on the material, buy a standard set of ready-made parts of the building or, on the basis of your developments, order an assembly kit from a specialized company, or completely manufacture the structural elements with your own hands during installation;
• it is worth considering the aesthetic component of the location of the building, especially if you have a bathhouse with an attic and a terrace or panoramic French windows upstairs. The surveyed landscapes will become an important part of your vacation;
• when arranging the under-roof volume, one of the key tasks will be. On the one hand, heat and moisture will try to penetrate into the attic from below, and on the other hand, the roof will warm up in the sun from above in the summer or overcool in winter. Therefore, in addition to the use of high-quality heat-insulating materials, it is worth paying attention to careful vapor barrier in the interfloor floor, as well as the tasks of vapor and waterproofing of the exploited under-roof space.

There are several options for building roofs with an attic for a bath, each of them has its own strengths and weaknesses.

It is rare that a bath has a large margin of foundation strength in order to withstand the additional loads arising from the increase in the height of the facade walls. Such loads must be taken into account even during the construction of the foundations. It is quite dangerous to reconstruct an already operating bathhouse and supplement it with a gable roof attic. A broken line does not create large additional loads; it can be safely placed on existing structures.

Construction of a mansard roof for a bath

Mansard roof in a frame bath - construction photo

Another difference between these types of roofing is the way of insulation. Typical mansard roofs are insulated along the rafters, in the version of a broken roof, insulation is made for each partition, the roofs themselves are not insulated.

Gable roof insulation - scheme

Considering these characteristics, we have chosen as an example a broken roof version, we believe that such a solution will be acceptable for the vast majority of baths - both for those under construction and for those in which major repairs are being made.

In order to make it easier for you to navigate with the materials for the roof of your bathhouse, we will take a building with dimensions of 6 × 6 meters as an example.

For the manufacture of the rafter system, you need to use a board of 50 × 150 mm (6 pieces), for the frame part, a board of 50 × 100 (30 pieces) mm is suitable. During the calculation, it was meant that the lumber is a standard length of six meters.

If there are no such boards, then you can use thinner ones, but take two for one element. A bath with such dimensions will require seven rafters, the distance between them is approximately 60 centimeters. Thin boards need to be knocked down in pairs, pieces of boards of the same thickness are inserted between them at a distance of approximately 60 ÷ 70 centimeters.

Very important. For fixing, it is better to use self-tapping screws, in double rafters, fasteners can break, and the characteristics of nails in these parameters do not quite meet the requirements.

Edged board prices

edged board

Video - Splicing rafters along the length

Step 1. We begin to make a floor beam. Our board has a length of 6 meters, but this length is not enough. It is necessary to slightly increase it to the width of the skies, which will be lined with clapboard. The width of the skies is approximately 27-30 centimeters, the exact dimensions need to be adjusted taking into account the width of the lining with which they will be lined. It is much better to do this right away than to adjust the lining later. Taking into account the Celestials, the length of the boards should be 6 + 0.3 + 0.3 = 6.6 meters.

To increase the length of the beam, saw off the docking beam ≈65 cm long (the margin is left for precise fitting of the parts) and a piece of the board for the bundle of about the same length.

Align the ends of the cuts, put a long board, a prepared piece in one line on a flat surface, and a board for a bundle on top of it. Fasten the elements into one structure with nails or self-tapping screws. Nails need to be taken at least ten pieces of 150 mm in size, drive them in evenly in a checkerboard pattern, do not allow cracks to appear. Bend the nails on the back. The safest option is to lengthen the board using bolts and nuts. It will always be possible to adjust the pressing force of the boards depending on the amount of drying.

Step 2. Saw the board exactly to size, in our case its length should be 6.6 meters. Seven such boards will be needed, they will serve as interfloor floors, the rafter legs will rest on them.

Step 3. Find the middle of the elongated boards, measure 2.25 meters from it in each direction - half the width of the attic.

In these places there will be vertical racks of the attic room. Note that all vertical supports are on the outside of the marked lines. The height of the attic room is 2.2 meters, the same height needs to be prepared for vertical supports. In total, you will need 14 pieces, a pair for each ceiling board.

Step 4. Fastening individual boards to each other can be done with ordinary nails; to increase the stability of the structure, use metal corners on self-tapping screws.

Important: the metal corners must be fixed from the side of the roof, otherwise they will create difficulties during the clapboarding of the walls.

Step 5. Prepare short boards for supporting the ridge of the rafters, the height of such supports is within 1.5 meters, the longer they are, the greater the slope of the upper slopes and the smaller the slope of the side slopes. You will need fourteen such pieces, one for each rafter. Find the middle of the attic ceiling. In these places, with the help of a short support, the ridge part of the rafter legs will abut.

Step 6. For the upper slopes of a sloping roof, boards of three meters long are needed for the rafters. Now you need to make the ridge cuts of the rafter legs. To do this, put the end of the rafter on the line in the middle of the vertical support, the lower part must be placed on the extreme corner of the large rack along the height of the room. Mark the points of contact carefully.

Step 7. In the marked places, you need to cut the skate.

Skating bar trimming - scheme

First, mark the junction of the two rafters with a vertical line along the intersection points. Saw down carefully, trim the cuts. Put two rafters temporarily connected in the ridge on a vertical short support and mark the place of the stop, it should look like an equilateral triangle. Cut a short strut along the lines.

Step 8. Using the same algorithm, make marks and saw off the lower rafters. You can connect individual parts with self-tapping screws or nails; use metal plates to strengthen the knots.

Step 9. Saw off the bottom rafters. From above, they need to be aligned against the stop in the same way, draw a line and saw down. Next, we proceed to marking the lower part of the same slope. Check all dimensions and spatial position, assemble the structure on nails.

Cuts in the side lower parts of the rafters

Timber prices

Video - How to install rafters

We got a completely finished one structure with two broken slopes, two high vertical posts 2.2 meters each, one long ceiling beam 6.3 meters long, one short attic beam 4.5 meters long and one vertical short post 1 , 5 meters.

By weight, such a structure can be easily lifted by three people. It is better to prepare all the rafter legs and the assembled frame on the ground, it is recommended to serve up in assembled form. Use the first structure as a template, prepare seven of these elements. They should all be exactly the same.

Practical advice. If you have the slightest doubt about the strength of the structure, immediately reinforce the problematic nodes with additional plates or corners.

Before lifting the structures onto the roof of the bath, check their stability. Raise the assembled rafters slightly from the ground and turn them in different directions. This way, you will be able to detect weak points in time, strengthen them and avoid major breakdowns during roof climbing or installation.

Installing the rafter system

Very important. All work will be carried out at a considerable height, you need to be very careful. Safety regulations recommend the use of safety ropes for such work. But we understand that few people listen to these advice, so we kindly ask you to be at least as careful as possible.

Installation of rafters

Step, no.	Description	Illustration
Step 1.	Mark out the locations of the rafter legs. We have seven of them, with the length of the bath, the distance between the rafters will be 85 centimeters. This figure is rather an example, each bath may have slight deviations along the perimeter of the upper rim, this is not a problem. The main thing is that the distances between the rafters have the same values.
Step 2.	Check the horizontality of the top row, one cannot deviate by more than 1 ÷ 2 centimeters at the extreme corners. If the spread is greater, then you will have to make cuts in the upper rim of the log house or in the beams of the ceiling. There is no big difference in the method of aligning the overlap plane, choose what is more convenient for you and how it is easier.
Step 3.	Lift all the assembled rafters and frames to the attic, carefully stack them in one pile near any gable.
Step 4.	Begin the installation of the first gable structure. To do this, you will need to prepare a simple device - a board for resting on the ridge part. Make it in the form of a slingshot, this will completely prevent the structure from sliding off during lifting.
Step 5.	Let two assistants raise the rafters at the ridge part to the maximum height for themselves, the third person, with the help of a device, rests on the ridge part and lifts it to a vertical position. The helpers at the sides should simultaneously push the lower sections of the floor joists into place. As soon as the structure takes the required position, it should be temporarily, but securely fixed using any corner spacers.
Step 6.	Using the same algorithm, lift and fix the system at the second skate. Do the work slowly, remember to be careful.
Step 7.	Pull the rope along the ridge, along the rope, in turn, install all the remaining rafters. Firmly fix your legs to the upper rim, use metal homemade staples, store corners and self-tapping screws. Connect the rafters from the side of the attic room with various lengths of boards. After installing the lathing, the temporary fasteners will need to be removed.

Mansard rafter system - photo

Video - Mansard rafter system

You need to make windows in one or two skates; you need a frame to install them. We recommend window sizes 120 × 100 cm. We will tell you how it is done on one skate, and you will make for yourself as much as you like.

How to prepare a place for a window?

Step 1. From the middle of the ceiling beam, measure 50 centimeters in each direction - this will be the width of the window frame.

Step 2. Cut two boards 50 × 150 mm 2.2 each (to the height of the room). Attach them in a strictly vertical position to the gable rafter system. Use metal corners or angled nails.

Step 3. At a height of 0.9 ÷ 1.0 meters, nail a crossbar to the vertical supports, after 120 centimeters another one. Check angles and horizontality carefully. A window frame will be inserted into the frame made. If you wish, make a window on the second pediment as well.

Demonstration stand - preparation of an opening for installing a roof window on a slope

Installation of roofing

For ordinary baths, any cover, from metal to soft, can be used as a roofing material. Due to the fact that the attic space will be used, we do not recommend taking metal coverings, they create too much noise during a rainstorm or hail. Ondulin can be considered the best option in terms of quality and price, we will describe how to cover the roof with this material below.

Roofing sheet prices

roofing sheet

Ondulin coating

Sloping roof, covering - ondulin

Step 1. Calculate the total area of ​​the roof, add the dimensions of the two slopes of the sloping roof. At the same time, increase the final results by 6 ÷ 8 percent for unproductive waste. Buy Ondulin at the same time with all additional elements. For the lathing, you can use cheap types of boards or bars. It is not necessary to purchase new lumber, you can use the various sections remaining after construction. The main thing is that they have the same thickness.

Step 2. Nail the crate.

The step depends on the angle of inclination of the slopes and the climatic zone of residence. The lower slope has a large slope; snow cover will never linger on it. The upper slope of the sloping roof in our version has an angle of inclination of approximately 40 °, which also significantly reduces the likely snow load. Due to these characteristics, the distance between the battens of the battens can be increased to 60 ÷ 70 centimeters. Nail the batten from bottom to top, alternately in each slope of the sloping roof. In order for all the strips to be parallel, use a template, make it from short cut pieces. The length of the template should be equal to the distance between the slats. Nail additional slats under the ridge and tong (at the very edge of the bottom of the rafter legs). It is necessary to retreat from the ridge 5 ÷ 10 centimeters. The specific distance depends on the angle of inclination of the slopes, it is advisable to first try on the ridge.

The main condition is that the skate must be nailed to the slats. If they are much further from the ridge, then its standard width will not be enough.

Step 3. To decorate the cornice, use drop aprons, they are implemented in the roof set. The aprons have special horizontal grooves that allow you to make an even bend at the right distance. Bend and fasten them to the bottom rail of the batten with self-tapping screws or nails. The overlap of the aprons can be no more than five centimeters; water will not get into the joints.

Step 4. On the side of the eaves, nail in the wind boards, their height should be three centimeters above the level of the crate. Before nailing the wind boards, you need to trim all the ends of the rails along one line. It is better to use a rope with blue color to fill the line.

Wind board device

Step 5. Ondulin sheets can be cut with a hand-held electric saw, hacksaw or jigsaw. The material does not have great strength, it is easy to cut, without chips and cracks.

Start with the bottom row of the lower roof slope. The first sheet should completely cover the protruding wind board convex - minimizing the risks of roof blowing during strong gusts of wind. This is an important condition, always remember about it during the installation of any roof and on any buildings.

Step 6. If you have drippers, then the first row of sheets can be nailed flush with the rafter system, if they are not there, then the sheets should extend beyond the rafter system by five centimeters. In order to reduce the amount of dust in the under-roof space, you can install cornice fillers under the ondulin sheets. These are special devices made of rubber that are inserted into the waves of ondulin; they have holes to ensure ventilation.

Step 7. To hammer the sheets, you need to use special nails with rubber gaskets. Drive in the nails carefully, do not allow the sheet to bend, leaks may then appear in these places. It is advisable to nail the sheets into each upper wave, in extreme cases through one, but, in no case, not less often.

Practical advice. It will be much easier to hit the narrow slats with nails if you pull the rope between the extreme ends or draw a straight line along the axis of the slat on each sheet before fixing it.

Step 8. If you want to install gable elements, then the wind board should be nailed close to the edge of the ondulin sheet. The overlap of the forceps is about ten centimeters. Tongs are a special decorative element that at the same time serves as a wind board.

Step 9. Mount the skates on the opposite side of the prevailing wind direction, with an overlap of at least ten centimeters. Eaves fillers can also be installed under the ridge. Factory skates have hydraulic barriers, during installation, combine them according to the instructions. Skates must be nailed to each wave of ondulin without fail.

Video - Installation of ONDULIN

For such small roofs, it is not necessary to make drainage systems; it is enough to make a concrete blind area around the bath. The width of the blind area is 50 ÷ 60 centimeters, make breaks every 1 ÷ 1.5 meters. The thickness of the concrete layer is within ten centimeters.

Insulated concrete blind area - photo of layers

Now it remains to install the windows and sheathe the gables. For cladding the fronts, we recommend using plastic clapboard, wooden ones require periodic maintenance, and they are difficult to perform at high heights. There is no need to make additional supporting structures for the lining, the frame that holds the window is quite enough.

Attic use and room access

It remains to decide two questions: will the attic room be used in winter and in what way it will get into it. Let's start in order.

We doubt that such premises will be used during the winter period. If you agree with us, then decorate the walls and ceiling with any materials. For these purposes, you can use plasterboard, plywood, OSB sheets, natural or plastic lining.

If, nevertheless, there is a desire to use the attic in cold weather, then the walls and ceiling of the room will have to be insulated. Nail the "rough" wall on the back of the vertical supports. The distance between the vertical supports of the frame is ≈85 centimeters, which allows you to immediately lay insulation in the niches. You can insulate it with rolled or pressed mineral wool or foam. If mineral wool is used for insulation, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier. For these purposes, you can apply any modern coatings. The same operations should be done to insulate the ceiling.

Now you need to decide on the way to get into the attic. We recommend making a marching inclined staircase for such purposes. Due to the fact that the angle of inclination of the stairs should be within 45 °, it will take quite a lot of space to place it.

Attic staircase - photo

The only room suitable for its size is the recreation room. You can, of course, make an extension ladder, but it is inconvenient to use it.

For each case, you will have to calculate the individual indicators of the stairs. For an approximate orientation, we give the optimal dimensions recommended by building codes and regulations in accordance with GOST 23120-78.

File to download. Flight stairs, platforms and steel railings. Interstate standard

The height between the steps is 20 centimeters, the width of the steps is 17 centimeters. Depending on the design, stringers or bowstrings are used as load-bearing elements.

One more nuance. It is desirable that the mansard access hole is closed by a hinged hatch.

This will greatly increase the comfort of staying in the relaxation room after taking water treatments. Make the hatch on metal hinges; install a decorative handle for easy opening / closing. In the summer, the passage to the attic can be constantly open for the inflow of fresh air into the bath; with the onset of cold weather, the hatch closes.

A bathhouse on a personal plot is a secret desire of every owner of land and households. The building is of great value. It lies in health benefits and artistic beauty. In an effort to acquire an exclusive, many are thinking about such an option as a bath with an attic. It has an undeniable majesty, equipped with numerous design nuances. Consider the intricacies of designing such a structure.

Peculiarities

The exclusivity of mansard baths implies the full implementation of a variety of design solutions. Choose the option of a bath house, taking into account the characteristic features. For lovers of designing various variations of structures, a bath with an attic will be an excellent way to implement their own ideas. One of the main superstructure of the attic is the staircase. The ascent to the attic in the bath will require its presence.

Counterbalancing points should be carefully considered, taking into account the pros and cons. Only after taking into account the main characteristics of a personal bathhouse is it allowed to consider design issues. Another design feature of the attic baths is the roof structure. It is important to consider the limitations of the attic. To make this floor useful, the roof of a broken gable structure is often used.

A single-pitched roof is undesirable, the type of a traditional gable version also cannot be called the most convenient. Hip roof structures are often used. The geometric parameters are more or less clear. Choose the option of lifting to the attic, taking into account one or another roof option. For example, marching options are considered the most effective, but they are difficult to mount in small areas. Marching devices are especially poorly adapted to the design of 4x4 m baths.

Boltsev ladders are equipped with the advantages of marching devices. Such systems cannot be applied to frame structures, as they require a strong load-bearing support. Steps are attached to the wall. If the bath is made of other materials, the device is perfectly acceptable for use.

Screw-type devices are not convenient, but they are effective in terms of saving space. Often they become a lifesaver in the project of a 4x4 or 5x5 m attic bath.

The best version of the project with a veranda, a terrace and an attic assumes the placement of rooms in the following order:

• first floor;
• steam room;
• shower or washroom;
• vestibule;
• small veranda.

The veranda is often used as a dining area, filled with benches, chairs, tables. This space is usually open, so an atmosphere of simple natural beauty is created. However, the veranda is sometimes sacrificed to increase the internal area of ​​the bath. In the attic area, it is allowed to arrange a sleeping place, a playroom (for example, a billiard room), and a pantry. If the attic is a storage room, it is more expedient to equip the resting place below. For comfort in the attic, a total height of the room should be provided from 2.5 meters.

Building materials

In the modern market, there are many types of building materials that can be used for any bath. For example, they are built from:

• timber;
• logs;
• foam blocks;
• wood and wooden blocks;
• aerated concrete;

• rounded logs;
• frame blocks;
• glued laminated timber;
• finished log house;
• bricks.

If the project contains brick, aerated concrete and aerated concrete, the walls presuppose the obligatory presence of cladding, both inside and outside. This feature is interrelated with the technical qualities of the materials. For example, a brick bath without insulation will be cold. The qualities of aerated concrete and aerated concrete are practically the same. The structural pores of these materials are capable of collapsing under the influence of high humidity and temperature differences. In this case, the cladding of the foundations is important to perform with the construction of the structure.

The most suitable material for building a bath is wood. The wood is environmentally friendly, reliable and durable, practical and durable. Frame technologies are also used in such construction. In this case, the frame is allowed both wooden and metal. A cladding is mounted on top of the frame. Be sure to choose a high-quality insulation for such a structure, which will perform the function of insulating the entire structure.

The finishing of the frame building can be made from:

• wood;
• block panels;
• lining.

Interior decoration can be made of plastic. The most economical and profitable technology for the construction of baths is frame. The frame does not need a massive foundation. Building materials in this case are not the most expensive. And the weight of the building will not have an additional effect on the ground.

Determining the material for building a bath is an important stage. In hardware stores, there are standard constructors from ready-made elements. On the basis of standard developments, an assembly kit is purchased. Parts of the constructor can be made with your own hands. For the construction of baths, wood materials are often used (for example, timber, logs, rounded wood), block panels are often considered. Having dealt with the raw materials for construction, they proceed to design.

Projects

Bath projects with an attic differ in size and layout. The most popular of them include structures 6x6, 6 by 4 m. Despite the fact that the buildings are compact and usually simple, they provide a good rest. This option is suitable for a small number of people, as well as for those who do not have extra space on the site.

The 6x4 m project plan assumes placement:

• steam rooms;
• shower room;
• vestibule;
• verandas.

Some small projects do not include a veranda. Sometimes the area of ​​the entrance area turns into a recreation room. In this case, a guest room is placed on the attic floor. Sometimes the attic involves the placement of a pantry.

The ladder is placed so as not to clutter up the bathhouse. Structures 6x6 or 4x6 m also will not occupy the territory of the site. An equipped attic will make the building area more useful. At the same time, the internal dimensions of the bath rooms can vary at the request of the owner during construction.

A bathhouse project with an attic 6x8 m usually contains everything you need for a large company to relax. This layout of the building even includes a bathroom. More often, a large terrace is provided here, there is a relaxation room of 20 square meters. The room can accommodate standard furniture and even a large table. A company of several people will fit at the table, while leaving a place for free use.

The building includes a classic shower room, a relaxation room. A spare bedroom will be located on the attic floor. It can be a billiard room, tennis room or gym. The material for the manufacture of the structure will be a profiled beam.

The layouts of baths 5x5 5x6, 5 by 9 m are a good compromise. It is important to arrange the location of the premises taking into account a well-thought-out plan. For example, a small bathhouse 5x5 m will house an entrance hall, a washroom, a steam room, a relaxation room or a storage room on the attic floor.

Choosing a suitable log house project is always a search for a compromise. The bath should suit all dimensions. When choosing a 6x9 or 7x8 m bath, it is important to take a serious approach to the layout of the site. Think over the placement of the bath correctly (especially if the land is only 6 acres).

Another important parameter is the construction cost. A large log house will require a larger area on the site. For example, a log house with 4x6 m parameters will cost 10,000-15,000 rubles more than a 4x5 m bathhouse. For a larger bath area, it will take more time and fuel for heating. The temperature in the steam room should be sufficient for the heat.

An important parameter for choosing the size of the bath is the number of people who will visit it. If the number of steam lovers does not exceed two people, it is enough to build a small and low structure. A large family and regular guests need a large structure. Draw the blueprints to define the layout correctly.

Zones

Let's say it is decided to build a 5x5 meter bathhouse.

If we consider the standard plans for functional areas, the main ones are three:

• dressing room;
• washing room;
• steam room.

The layout option for a 5x5 m bathhouse implies placing the firebox not in the dressing room, but in a separate corner, separated by a wall. The same wall separates the dressing room from the steam room. The pre-bath room will be spacious. It is convenient to place a table and benches in it, as well as hangers. This room can be a living room.

Bath 5x5 m will allow you to place a company of 5-6 people. The attic floor in such a bath is often used as a small rest room. The attic can be equipped with a toilet and shower room. It is definitely worth considering communication.

In the bathhouse 5x5 m, it is important to install the doors correctly. For example, it is important to get directly from the guest room to the washroom. This arrangement will prevent heat loss from the steam room. The shower room can be allocated slightly less space than the steam room. Plan your steam room carefully. It is important to carefully consider the shapes and sizes of the shelves.

Do not forget that part of the area will be used for a stove and a stove. Its location should not be tight to the wall, otherwise there is a risk of fire for the sheathing and wooden walls. They expand the area of ​​small baths by supplying the building with a terrace. A small terrace can serve as a summer kitchen. The construction of the terrace will increase the amount of building material.

Communications

The rules imply the preparation of a building project simultaneously with the wiring of all the necessary communications. You will definitely need water, light (sometimes gas). The laying of water pipes takes place during the construction of the structure. Do not lose sight of the installation of a high-quality ventilation system in all rooms (including rest rooms), otherwise the humidity will increase. Humid air will cause fungus to appear on the walls. Some types of building material will begin to deteriorate quickly.

In order to maintain optimal heat in winter, it is important to provide a heating structure. Only with additional heating can an optimal temperature regime be achieved in cold weather. In addition to ventilation in the bath room, it is important to provide for high-quality waterproofing and thermal insulation. Installation of communication systems in a two-story building is easier to carry out than in a one-story building with annexes.

Planning work is a crucial stage in the construction of a bath. It must be approached with all responsibility.

After deciding on the planning issue, identify the following important organizational steps:

• Take on board the popular sizes: 6x4, 6x6, 6x8 m.
• Think over the materials from which the bath will be built.
• You can download the program on your PC "3D Modeling". This will simplify the planning phase.

The standard arrangement of rooms is usually as follows:

• entrance from the terrace into a small hallway;
• further there is a rest room or dressing room;
• behind it there are two exits: to the bathroom and to the steam room.

Sometimes the shower room and the steam room are equipped with an additional entrance between themselves. All this is located on the ground floor. The second floor is often used for entertainment, recreation or household needs. Sometimes a solarium is set up on the second floor. This adds comfort to the rest of a large company.

Buy a ready-made standard constructor. Create a standard bath from the assembly kit. Coming up with your own options for the details of the arrangement is more difficult. If the properties of the soil on the site are unstable, use frame constructors for the construction of the attic complex. Columnar and screw structures of the foundation will contribute to the strengthening of the bath's foundation.