A summer cottage composter is a place for disposal of unnecessary vegetation, as well as a source of inexpensive organic fertilizer. It is possible to build it yourself from any available materials.

Compost box with lid

A composter with a box-shaped plank lid is considered a simple and traditional option. It serves for many years and makes excellent humus. Before starting its manufacture, you need to decide on the parameters. The most optimal option for a summer cottage with an area of ​​5 acres is considered to be a volume of 1 m3.

The compost is obtained of high quality due to aeration through the cracks and the preservation of the necessary moisture content. This design will allow for easy filling and emptying of organic residues.

To make a garden composter, as in the photo, you will need boards and beams equal to 1 m long. The thickness of the boards should be about 25 mm, and for the beams at least 50 mm. The assembly is carried out using self-tapping screws.

The most important thing is not to forget to leave small gaps between the boards for fresh air flow. At the end of the work, the wood should be impregnated with an anti-decay agent.

The lid is made in the same way. It can be hinged to the drawer or simply left removable. Thanks to the cover, excess condensation is prevented and the compost is not threatened by any climatic precipitation.

It is possible to do without shelter at all if the compost is stored in the shade. It is also possible to replace the wooden cover with a sheet of metal or linoleum.

This design can be built even by a beginner in the mastery. And a more experienced summer resident can be puzzled about what else a composter can be made of.

Rotary composter

Garden pits or fertilizer boxes are not very convenient for mixing compost. It is much easier to do this in a construction of planks and a barrel, created by hand.

In the form of a support for the composter from a barrel, goats made of boards, fastened crosswise with nails, serve. The axis can be a chrome tube, for example from an unnecessary curtain, or rather pick it up from a stainless material.

In the center of the bottom of the barrel and parallel to the top, punctures are made for the entry and exit of this axis. At its ends, you need to tighten the bolts to secure the structure from flying out of the gantry.

For the convenience of loading and unloading compost in a barrel, you need to make a lid. We cut out a rectangle in the barrel body with a jigsaw and fasten the resulting cover with hinges and latch bolts.

We also fix the handle for easy opening and closing of the structure. Air vents are also indispensable. For example, you can drill 4 holes in a row and at a distance of 15 cm from each other around the circumference.

Composter

The design is a green conical container without a bottom, which consists of several undulating side walls bolted together.

There is a cover on top for loading compost, and special doors for unloading at the bottom. The composter is made of propylene, which has good temperature resistance.

This model has a number of advantages:

• ease of assembly, disassembly and transportation from place to place;
• ease of use;
• aesthetic appearance;
• optimal volume and size;
• environmentally friendly and durable material.

Of course, there are a number of disadvantages of this design:

• installation is only possible on damp ground;
• the volume is designed for a large summer cottage;
• inconvenient for people of small stature.

Plastic composters are made of quality materials that are highly durable and resistant to temperature extremes and winds.

The composter should be placed in a sunny place to activate the decay process. It is also not recommended to put it in a windy place, as this will interfere with maintaining the required ambient temperature.

With the correct use of the composter, the cost of purchasing it will quickly pay off, thanks to the yield of the fertilized crops.

Any of the considered country composters will serve as a good humus producer. Self-created fertilizer for vegetation will significantly save energy and money when caring for the site. At the same time, it will serve as a solution to the problem of disposing of any unnecessary organic residues.

DIY composter photo

Do-it-yourself compost box from what to make

To make compost in the country, people use various materials at hand. Some simply dig holes and throw the torn weeds into them, others adapt old containers (barrels, boxes, etc.) for this purpose, and still others take the matter of making compost so seriously that they build special boxes for this purpose. Naturally, the most optimal material for the manufacture of this device is wood - of course, they do not buy it on purpose, but used it. For example, they dismantle unnecessary wooden products - in most cases, pallets for building and other materials. The board used for them is usually good and for such a device it suits perfectly well - a box for compost from pallets serves for a very long time.

Compost box from pallets photo

In addition to such wood, you will additionally need a wooden beam with a cross section of 50 by 50 mm, a large self-tapping screw, trimming of the UD gypsum plasterboard profile (guides will be made from them, which will allow easy access to the finished compost, which is usually located at the bottom of the box). Also, it will not be superfluous to think about tools - the boards will need to be cut, and the screws must be screwed in. In addition, you will need a shovel to install the shields - in principle, this is a standard country tool that is available in any country house. And one more thing - despite the fact that solid wood is used for the manufacture of pallets, it will not be superfluous to take care of its safety. Soak it with an antiseptic compound and, if possible, paint - after such processing of the wood, the compost box made from it will serve for a very long time. You can see how a compost bin is made with your own hands in this short video.

How to make a compost box with your own hands dimensions and markings

In principle, no one will give you any exact dimensions of compost bins - for the most part, their dimensions are determined by the area of ​​the dacha (or rather, the amount of grass pulled out per year) and the size of the source material. You have boards 2000mm long, which means that the dimensions of the box should be adjusted to fit them. This will not work with pallets, since their width is about 1000 mm - not enough, of course, but there is a way out. You just have to do not a single box, but a double one. On the one hand, this is even better - you get a two-year compost bin. Load the grass into one this year (next season it will be used as a ready-made fertilizer), and the cut grass will be loaded into the second compartment. This gives you the right amount of compost.

How to make a compost box in the country photo

As far as the design of the compost bin is concerned, we have decided on it. Now you can safely do the preparatory work. They are not complicated and all you have to do is three things.

1. First of all, mark in the selected place of the summer cottage a rectangle with a size of 1115mm by 2230mm and install four pins in its corners, on which to pull the thread.
2. According to the stretched thread along the long side of the box (on both sides), at a distance of 1115mm from any corner, install a couple of pins - these are the middle posts dividing the product into two equal parts.
3. Dig holes 300-400mm deep in the places marked with pins.

In principle, this is all the preparation, after finishing with which it will be possible to safely proceed to the manufacture of the box itself - this is what we will do next.

Benefits of compost

High-quality compost is saturated with nutrients from the decomposition of organic materials.

Useful substances are in a form easily assimilated by plants. The compost mass is comparable in its characteristics to mullein and can be applied even under garden crops that cannot tolerate fresh manure. There are many uses for the compost site:

1. Laying in holes when planting vegetables, flowers, shrubs and trees.
2. Spreading on the ground before planting root crops.
3. Embedding into the soil during autumn and spring digging.
4. Mulching of trunks.

Compost is good in every sense.

For plants it is an excellent organic fertilizer, for the soil it is a good loosening agent, and for people it is an easy way to get rid of waste.

Features of Finnish waste composting technology

The process of maturation of compost in natural conditions is quite long: 2 - 2.5 years until fully cooked. There are components that rot faster - green grass, straw, cleaning. Others need more time and the “fast” ingredients help them.

It is better to compost waste according to Finnish technology in boxes of our own manufacture, since their production will cost much less than buying factory containers. The principle is to empty one of the boxes one by one and use the finished mixture as fertilizer in the garden.

Bookmarking process:

The first box receives spring garden waste, is filled with accelerators and left for 2 months. After this time, the mixture will be ready.

Waste is placed in the second box one month after the first box.

In the third - after another 1.5 months.

After two months, the waste in the first box, with proper care, will ripen and can be used as fertilizer. After collecting the compost, the waste from the second box is transferred to the first. Perhaps questions will arise - why do the extra work:

Firstly, it is necessary to stir up the mass in any case. This speeds up the maturation process. This is done once a week. Thus, the decaying residues are enriched with oxygen and the bacteria multiply and feed faster.

Secondly, there is less risk of being mistaken about where which compost is located. And the first box will always contain ready-made fertilizer, in the second - ripening, in the third - a new bookmark.

By the same principle, you can build a compost pit using Finnish technology with your own hands, but the difference will be that the waste is processed by another type of microorganism - anaerobic, which does not need air.

The principle of operation of a purchased tank

Finnish dry closets are in demand, which work with microorganisms that process organic matter.

They are designed for outdoor and indoor summer cottages. The principle of operation is as follows:

The insulated sealed tank with a closed bottom is installed indoors or outdoors.

Above the seat there is a cistern, into which a natural filler - peat or sawdust - is poured. After each trip to the toilet, a certain amount of this substance is poured into the waste container.

The dry closet is equipped with ventilation, which prevents odors from accumulating inside the room. The pipe is led out to the roof both from the house and from the outside toilet.

Periodically, a biological solution of bacteria is added inside, so that the processing process takes place faster. There is access to the bottom of the composter from the back of the house. It can be opened with a special door and the finished fertilizer can be taken away.

The toilet does not require any special costs, electricity or water. The filler can be any carbonaceous material.

Selection of materials for self-production

The best material for making a composter using Finnish technology is wood. This is the most common material and can be replaced at any time. Many summer residents use pallets, the advantage of which is that they have already been treated with antiseptics against decay and moisture. It is easy to nail a couple more planks to the pallets to make the gaps smaller and control the air flow.

The slate composter is a fragile invention. In addition, according to reviews, the compost in it matures longer. Without prior experience, making holes for screws will be problematic.

A metal mesh is also suitable for composting, but it is placed on wood or metal corner supports. To prevent the mesh from stretching, it is fixed with several boards around the perimeter.

For the construction of a stationary composter, foam blocks with holes are suitable.

This is an environmentally friendly material that solves two problems at once - the stability of the structure and the ventilation of the compost. Roofing and attaching awnings to concrete is easier than slate. But you will have to buy material if there are no blocks left from the construction site in the storerooms, as well as buy cement and a trowel to fasten the blocks together.

Scheme of a three-section box according to Finnish technology

As already described above, the optimal composter dimensions are 1 m height, 1 m width, 3 m length. In length, it will be necessary to divide it with two partitions. The dimensions of the common door are 1 m by 1 m.

The dimensions of the lower door are 50 cm high, 1 m wide - it is mounted in a common sash. The roof can be made sloping or gable, while divided by canopies in half, so that it is convenient to open the drawer, turn the contents over and lay a new one.

If you make a more voluminous box, then in height and width it can be increased by 50 cm. The length remains unchanged. In length, any compost pit or heap is made arbitrarily.

How to make a compost bin step by step instructions

Some gardeners make a compost heap instead of a compost bin, but it is important to remember that the latter option has many disadvantages. First of all, this is an unsightly appearance - it is unlikely that your guests will be delighted to see an unpleasant smelling mass in the middle of the site

In addition, it is problematic in this case and stacking organic residues and kitchen waste. In addition, if you put all the ingredients haphazardly, it will all roll down, which will cause a lot of hassle.

Someone chooses a pit instead of preparing a compost heap. Yes, this option is also possible, but only if you put all the ingredients at the same time and forget about its existence for at least two years. In this case, the compost will be prepared under anaerobic conditions.

This means that the garden will have an incredibly specific "aroma". This is acceptable in a large area where you can find a remote place to organize a compost pit. on small garden plots of 10 "acres" it is best to choose a compost bin.

Moreover, the compost bin can be easily built from materials that are at hand. However, before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with some of the rules for the construction of such a structure.

It is best to build a compost heap out of wood, especially since there will obviously be board trimmings anywhere. True, you shouldn't take really bad wood, especially if you want the structure to be not only strong and durable, but also beautiful. It is best to take rather thick boards for construction, having soaked them in advance with a composition from decay.

You cannot do without this, since the contents of such a box will be quite "aggressive", saturated with various bacteria and microorganisms, which can lead to wood rot.

All walls, except for the front one, must be made with slots, which is important for aeration and normal air access. And the front sweat is done a little differently:

1. About a third of it is made stationary.
2. Above, transverse boards are laid end-to-end so that they can be removed to the required height.

Everything is simple here: you need to fill the vertical bars so that "grooves" are formed, where we put the boards. Such a scheme will allow you to take out the compost with maximum convenience when it is ready.

There is an option on which you can save money - all walls except the front are made not of boards, but of sheet slate. The advantages of such material include the fact that it does not rot, which means it will theoretically last longer. True, in this case, the box should be more spacious so that oxygen can calmly "walk" inside.

Another important point is the placement of the compost bin. Undoubtedly, it should not be placed in a visible area - choose a secluded corner so that it is not completely in the open sun, but not in the shade - the sun is required in order to maintain the required level of humidity inside the container. It is also worth considering approaches for laying out new ingredients.

What are the optimal dimensions for such a structure? It all depends on factors such as:

• The area of ​​the cultivated garden.
• The number of people in the family.
• Time spent in the garden.

The size of the site greatly affects the size of the compost bin. For example, if you have a large garden and a lawn for the lawn, from where you will get the "ingredients" for the compost, it is worth making a larger box, but if the site is very small, of course, you definitely do not need a large structure.

This also applies to the number of members of your family - the more people, the more waste, which means that the box itself should be larger.

It is also important how often you visit the country house - you live there the whole warm season or come a couple of times a month

Filling the compost bin

At the bottom of the composter, drainage is arranged from large branches left after tree pruning.

Waste is laid in alternating layers 30–40 cm thick, using different materials and spilling water from a watering can. The more varied the filling of the pledged "pie", the better the finished product is.

Among the possible compost bin fillers, the most common components are:

1. Sideral plants. Increases nitrogen content and decomposes quickly.

   When laying, they are shuffled with coarse materials (bark, chips, sawdust).

2. Foliage. It contains little nutrients, it is laid dried and crushed.
3. Straw and hay. Provides a porous structure to the compost, facilitating the access of air. They retain moisture well. They are laid in thin layers, alternating with green tops.
4. Sawdust and bark. They decompose poorly, therefore they are introduced together with manure, tops and bone meal or urea.
5. Kitchen waste. They rot quickly, significantly enriching the compost.

   They are placed in a box mixed with other materials.

6. Manure. A valuable ingredient in a compost bin. Accelerates the decay process, as it contains a lot of nitrogen. The laid layer of manure is sprinkled on top with earth.

Bones, coals, diseased plants, bindweed roots and similar aggressive weeds are not suitable for composting.

The contents of the compost box are mixed every 2-3 months, new portions of organic matter are added as they become available.

The finished mass has a crumbly structure, dark color, and smells like forest soil.

Of course, compost can be bought ready-made, but only self-produced home fertilizer claims to be called “garden gold”.

Filling the compost bin

The do-it-yourself compost box is filled with various organic garbage that lends itself well to the decay process, waste from the kitchen. And of course, the main filling of the box is made up of plant residues. This is mowed lawn grass, rotten hay, moldy straw. Last year's castings, weeds, sawdust and shavings from wood waste are removed into the compost bin. In general, the compost bin is filled with everything that can rot, excluding chemical waste, plastic, polyethylene, glass.

In order for the decay processes to occur faster in the compost box, the compost must be periodically turned over, watered with water, slurry. You can put a layer of fresh manure on the bottom of the box in advance, thereby providing a greenhouse effect. Heat will rise upward, accelerating decay.

Decomposition conditions of plant materials

It seems that it is enough to throw leaves and branches in a heap, add green tops and then nature will do everything.

In fact, certain factors affect the maturation of compost:

1. The moisture content in the compost is maintained taking into account the different ability of materials to absorb water: it is higher in fibrous and wood waste than in green mass. Accordingly, sawdust, shavings and hay require more moisture than tops and grass.
2. Oxygen is necessary for the growth of microorganisms, which is achieved by a slot ventilation device and by limiting the depth of the compost container.
3. Temperature determines the rate of decomposition.

   In the first months, microbiological activity leads to the heating of the compost to 60–70 ° C, while the organic material is detoxified. At this stage, the contents of the composter need additional moisture.

An effective method of accelerating the decay of biomass is the introduction of compost bacteria at the preparation stage, which immediately begin to process waste at a high speed.

Of course, the remains of plants piled up in a heap will someday perepere, but this will happen a few years later.

The process is much faster in a container - a purchased plastic or homemade wooden one.

Garden composter which to choose Review of the best types for giving 100 photos

The latter are interconnected by blocks and serve as a door necessary for raking out the ripe compost.

The folding parts are suspended on hinges, and as a fixing device they hammer in a thick nail and bend it with pliers at right angles.

With a shovel they outline the perimeter of the box, overturn the structure on its side and remove the fertile soil layer under it.

Bricks are laid under the corner and middle posts, the structure is turned over into place.

To keep the doors open, hooks and rings are made of steel wire, fixed in the wood by means of bent nails with a cut off head.

A simple compost bin is ready without a significant investment.

Start filling the compartment, using the selected soil as a separator for the layers to be laid.

General rules for making compost containers

These rules follow from the peculiarities of making plant fertilizers. In order for the compost not to burn out and turn out to be really useful for the garden, several conditions are needed:

• air access, since bacteria need oxygen to process plant residues;
• moisture, so that the mass of the plants folded into the box decomposes;
• protection from rain and snow, otherwise all formed compost will simply be washed away with water;
• cover from the sun and wind so that grass, branches and other waste does not dry out too much;
• the ability to cook for a long time to achieve the desired consistency.

Based on these rules, we understand that a good compost bin should consist of walls with holes and a dense, moisture-proof lid. Two compartments are required: in one the compost is prepared, from the second it is used. Sometimes three divisions are made. It is better to put the structure away from the house and the recreation area so that the unpleasant smell does not interfere with enjoying the delights of summer cottage life. The place should be far enough away from neighbors. It's great if the sun shines and a shadow falls on the box one by one.

The compost bin should be located far from the residential building

Separately, it should be said about the bottom of the compost bin. Some gardeners don't do it at all, just placing the box on the ground. This can lead to the fact that melt water will simply wash out most of the useful fertilizer. In addition, it will be inconvenient to get it, as it will partially mix with the ground. Therefore, two options are advised:

• make good drainage - lay on the bottom a layer of branches and boards with a thickness of at least 25 cm, like a warm bed;
• make a ventilated bottom from boards, polypropylene mesh, metal grate - what is available on the farm.

A plastic or iron bottom is preferable here, as it is more durable.

How to do the stages of work with your own hands

The first thing to do is to dig a hole for the corner supports. Use a drill or an ordinary shovel for this. When the poles are installed and the ground is compacted, boards or pallets are nailed. Screws will work, but a drill is needed. The gap between the boards is about 1 cm.

The bottom of the composter is made at a distance of 10 cm from the ground. This is necessary so that the nutrient liquid does not go into the soil, and the contents of the compost heap are additionally ventilated from below. Sometimes the bottom is covered with durable material - film or plastic.

The roof is knocked down from the boards as tightly as possible so that precipitation does not penetrate into the composter and create a swamp in it. This lowers the combustion temperature and slows down maturation. The roof consists of two equal parts, which are connected by awnings.

The lower unloading doors are attached last. They can be made only in the first box, since in the second the components will be ripened and laid.

Video: DIY compost bin

Foam block composter

For a massive stationary composter, the number of blocks must be correctly calculated. So that the mass does not sag, the site is concreted before laying out the walls - this will be the bottom of the compost heap. When the concrete is completely cured, walls can be made.

It is recommended to make the front wall two times lower so that it is convenient to work with a pitchfork, and make the roof sloping. Such a structure is usually mounted behind a house or other place where the sun shines least. It should be borne in mind that rotting waste emits a characteristic odor, so they are looking for a suitable place right away - it will be impossible to transfer the concrete structure.

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Homemade compost bin

It is not necessary to use new lumber for the construction of a compost bin; in the home garden there will always be suitable blanks from unnecessary pallets or old window frames.

More or less whole boards without visible rot, at least 90 cm long, are chosen from such rubbish, the number of which depends on their width. You will also need four long blanks (200 cm) and six bars with a cross section of about 5x10 cm.

Compost bin drawing:

It is convenient to use a wooden box of the indicated sizes, its contents “breathe” and quickly warms up.

One compartment is intended for fresh waste, after filling to the top, the biomass is left to rot, and the next components are placed in the second compartment.

This design allows each year to receive a new portion of organic fertilizer.

The selected boards are marked out according to the drawing, trying not to use the chipped and cracked ends.

The workpieces are sawn with a hacksaw and cut if you plan to treat the parts with protective compounds.

The assembly of the compost bin begins with the manufacture of two long shields.

Well-fertilized land always pleases with an abundant harvest of vegetables and fruits. In order to receive top dressing for the soil, it is not necessary to buy chemical fertilizers. To do this, a do-it-yourself compost pit can be built on the site. The manufacturing options are different, and it is easy to choose the one that is most suitable in terms of materials, their cost and the size of the site.

Compost is an organic fertilizer made from plant waste or the waste products of certain animals. This is the result of biodegradation of materials under the influence of various microorganisms.

During composting, substances are formed in the waste layer, which are necessary for feeding the plants - nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and other elements, microflora dangerous to health is rendered harmless. Compost is used for all garden crops, applied in steam, in holes. This fertilizer is as effective as manure.

Attention! Not to be confused compost pit with cesspool... The second is the simplest autonomous sewage system. Fertilization will not work out of these effluents. The only thing that can be achieved is soil pollution.

Many people refuse to build a compost pit on their site due to the fact that they are afraid of an unpleasant smell and an unaesthetic appearance. If you choose the right place, then the structure will not create discomfort for the residents of this and neighboring areas.

Find out how, as well as familiarize yourself with the scheme, options and best ideas, in a special article on our portal.

When choosing a place, pay attention to which direction the water flows during rains. If a well is located on the site, then the flows should not be directed in that direction. Otherwise, the water will become polluted, lose its taste, or even become completely unusable.

The direction of the wind, which is most often observed in this area, should also be taken into account. Then the smell will be minimally spread over the site. Do not forget about the interests of your neighbors.

There should be partial shade in the chosen place. If the site is under the sun, then the compost mass dries up, the decay process slows down.

There should be no fruit, coniferous or evergreen trees or shrubs near the compost pit. When waste decays, corrosive substances are released. This can harm vegetation, in particular their root system. But if a birch or alder grows on the site, then such a neighborhood will not harm. Lush crowns will cover the structure from the scorching midday sun.

Table 1. Distance from the compost pit to other elements.

Attention! The pit is located on a site lower than the well. The water table is also taken into account so that it does not flood the compost tanks.

Although SNiP indicates the minimum required distance to the well 8 m, some owners decide to play it safe, and leave a distance between objects 25-30 m.

What foods can and cannot be thrown into the compost pit

Not all waste is allowed to be composted. Into the pit allowed throw:

• raw fruits, tea leaves and coffee grounds, cereals, cleaning;
• straw, fresh and dry grass, leaves, needles;
• parts of trees and shrubs - they are pre-crushed, unpainted waste from woodworking;
• wood ash;
• paper products;
• second-year herbivore manure.

Forbidden use for composting:

All products are divided into green and brown... The former are the source nitrogen, the latter saturate the soil carbon... The ratio of nitrogen to carbon is considered optimal when proportions 25 to 1. A mass of leaves and freshly cut grass, taken in half, is thrown into the pit. They will give the mixture that is optimal in terms of chemical composition.

Compost pit construction

Compost pits are made from different materials. Usually they use those that are at hand. Standard pit size - 1500х3000 mm, height - from 1200 mm. A structure can be made large if there is a lot of waste.

The entire space is divided into three compartments:

• for fresh waste;
• for last year's waste;
• for ready-made compost.

But variations are possible. So, if you achieve rapid ripening of the fertilizer, then one tank will be enough. For example, for this, 1 part of green waste is taken 25 brown, be sure to put manure. The total volume of the heap must be at least 1 cubic meter, otherwise the temperature inside will not warm up to the required indicators (in different sources it is called 45-60 ° C).

Attention! The larger the pit, the better the temperature required for the activity of microorganisms is maintained in it.

Compost pit "for the lazy" - the easiest option

In this case, no building materials are required, only a tool - shovel.

Prices for bayonet shovels

Bayonet shovel

A trench of the above dimensions is dug in the ground with a depth 0.5 m. Sand is poured at the bottom. It acts as a drain to drain excess moisture from the pit. Cut branches are placed on the sand. This layer is responsible for aeration - oxygen enrichment.

Then the waste is laid in this order:

• grass;
• dry leaves;
• sawdust;
• table waste;
• manure;
• weeds.

Peat is poured between the layers, watered with water.

Attention! To activate the decay process, large waste is pre-crushed.

The total heap height is 150 cm, of which 100 cm rises above the surface of the earth. Covering material or slate sheets are placed on top. In summer, when it is too dry, the waste is watered with clean water.

Slate Compost Pit - More Efficient Layout

Such a tank can be made in as little as 1 day, and it will serve for many years. The main advantages of building material:

• cheapness- you can use an old roof covering that has become unusable;
• durability- asbestos-cement slabs serve up to 40 years old;
• ease of installation.

This compost pit consists of slate sheets attached to a timber frame.

Materials that will be required for it:

• circular saw, grinder, screwdriver;
• tape measure, marking pencil;
• level;
• slate;
• frame boards;
• self-tapping screws;
• door handles, hinges - for the cover;
• paint or varnish with anti-fungal properties, with which the inner sides of the walls of the future pit are treated.

Step-by-step instructions for making a slate compost pit

Step 1. Slate sheets are cut using a cutting tool.

Prices for angle grinders (grinders)

Angle grinders (grinders)

Step 2. They dig grooves for slate around the perimeter of the future pit.

Step 3. Cover the side of the slate, which will face the inside of the structure, with paint.

Step 4. Slate sheets are installed in the dug recesses, sprinkled with earth.

Step 5. A frame is made of boards along the outer or inner perimeter of the structure.

Step 6. Knock down the covers for the compartments from the boards, screw on the door handles. Attach the door hinges and install the covers. The compost pit is ready.

Such a tank can be hidden underground. Then, at the initial stage, they dig a hole of the required depth. The walls of the recess are sheathed with sheets, they are tied with wooden bars from the outside. The slate should protrude above the ground for 10-15 cm... The bars are covered with protective compounds.

Compost made of metal corrugated board

The compost box is also made of profiled sheet (corrugated sheet). It is a cladding material that is used for wall and roof decoration. It is better to take sheets with an anti-corrosion coating that protects the material from damage during the operation of the structure. Usually it is acrylic, polyester, PVC, and other materials.

The assembly is carried out in the following sequence:

1. From wooden or metal bars collect the frame of the desired size. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the sheet. It is undesirable to cut them unless absolutely necessary, so as not to destroy the protective coating. The frame is made into as many sections as there should be in the composter.
2. Self-tapping screws attach profile sheets to the frame.
3. The top panel is made of plywood or planks. If you are too lazy to make a lid, then you can cover the container with sheets of the same corrugated board.

The disadvantage of this design is that it has drum effect. Therefore, it will be noisy during a rainstorm. However, as the reservoir fills, the volume will decrease. In addition, the metal gets very hot under the sun. The polymer coating can deteriorate over time, which leads to the formation of foci of corrosion. Therefore, the structure must be regularly inspected.

Video - DIY composter

Compost bin from a metal or plastic barrel - step by step instructions

The advantages of a compost tank from a barrel of this design:

• simple materials that are either on hand or easy to obtain;
• this design is convenient in that the barrel is simply removed from the pit thanks to the roller mechanism;
• any home craftsman who owns a grinder will make such a structure;
• minimal inconvenience due to unpleasant odor on the site;
• the barrel will not spoil the appearance of the site;
• the compost is protected from wind, excess moisture, and other adverse factors.

To make the device, you will need a barrel - metal or plastic, with a volume 50 liters or more.

To prepare such a compost tank, in addition to the container, you will need:

• plywood 6 mm;
• wooden beams 5x10 cm(footage depends on the size of the barrel)
• 4 roller;
• fasteners - screws, nails.

A pit from a barrel is built in the following sequence:

Step 1. From plywood using a jigsaw or other carpentry tool cut out the lid for the container. Its diameter should be slightly larger than the diameter of the container neck.

Step 2. Cut 4 identical bars 10–12 cm long. Use charcoal or other coloring agent to wipe the edge of the barrel. Place the lid with the side facing the inside of the reservoir. Draw a square in the resulting circle. At the tops of the figure, pieces of bars are nailed. This is necessary in order for the lid to close tightly.

Step 3. Make a rectangular frame from wooden blocks. Its length is slightly greater than the height of the tank, and its width is three quarters of its diameter.

Step 4. Attach 2 rollers to each long side of the rectangle. Fix them with screws.

Step 5. On the short side of the frame, where the bottom of the tank will be, attach the bar. This is a retaining stop that will prevent the barrel from moving downward. The timber should be in the same plane as the castors.

Step 6. Place the hook on the outside of the barrel, and fasten on opposite sides of the hinge, two rubber bands holding the cover.

A hole is dug on the site with a depth of 10-15 cm shallower than the height of the tank. First, the frame is immersed in the pit, and then the tank.

Attention! To make the frame last longer, it can be treated with various impregnations against fungus and rot, and then painted - for example, with enamels. So the wood will be reliably protected from adverse factors.

Concrete compost pit

A more durable way to get a place for humus production on your own site is to build a compost pit out of concrete. This design will last for decades.

The construction process is simple and consists of the following stages:

1. Digging a hole with such dimensions: width - 200 cm, length - 300 cm, depth - 80 cm.
2. Perimeter make the formwork along the entire height, providing also a transverse bulkhead (two are possible), which will divide the space into separate tanks.
3. Concrete is prepared: cement-sand mixture ( 3 to 1) - 5 Kg, water - 5 l.
4. The concrete mixture is poured into the formwork.
5. The frame is knocked out of the boards. The chain-link mesh is pulled from above - this will be the cover for the structure.

Find out how to make concrete rings in a special article on our portal.

Steel mesh compost bin

To make the basket, they take a metal mesh, preferably with a polymer coating. The advantage of this design is that the compost is well ventilated and there is no decay process.

For the manufacture of the structure, the following materials will be required:

• protective mesh for fences;
• film or garden textiles (a large garbage bag can be used);
• wire to connect the ends of the mesh.

Cut the mesh so that a cylinder of the desired diameter is obtained and add 20 cm stitching allowance. The same amount will be required for garden textiles. It is placed inside the basket. The edges are folded back over the top edge of the cylinder wall and secured with paper clips.

This is a fairly lightweight structure that can be assembled in a few minutes and dismantled just as quickly. To give stability to the basket, it can be strengthened along the outer edge with wooden posts dug on 10-15 cm into the ground.

What other options are there for composter equipment

A compact composter can be made from planks. For a budget option, discarded wooden pallets, previously disassembled into parts, will come in handy.

The peculiarity of this design is that fresh and mature compost is stored in one tank. Due to the fact that there is a hole with a lifting wall at the bottom of the structure, it is easy and convenient to get the finished fertilizer. Another convenience is that there is no need to stir the substrate inside the box. Even a schoolboy can knock down such a box.

Attention! Wooden elements are covered with impregnations, as is the case with the frame for the compost barrel.

If you can't do it yourself, then you can install a regular special plastic container on the site. They are produced in a capacity from 400 to 1000 l, which allows you to choose the most suitable option for your needs. However, the price for them can be quite high - up to 10 thousand rubles. It is for this reason that many owners of summer cottages prefer homemade products from scrap materials.

Prices for a plastic container for receiving compost

Punch

A more durable option is to use ready-made concrete rings. Preliminarily, a recess is dug at the site along the diameter of the structure. Then the ring is installed and partially buried in the ground. A shield knocked down from boards is used as a cover. You can do with the usual covering material.

However, a composter made of concrete rings has one drawback: it does not have a lowered wall, which would make it possible to conveniently load waste or take compost. Therefore, for such operations, they are taken inside the structure.

Video - DIY concrete ring for a composter

How to care for a compost pit

To be able to prepare a high-quality fertilizer, the compost pit should be properly looked after.

The waste is periodically poured with water. This will ensure the proper decay process. The pile should be damp, but not wet. Excess moisture for bacteria is no less dangerous than lack of moisture.

The heap is stirred once a month to provide oxygen. This contributes to the burning of food. If it is not possible to dig up the waste, they are thoroughly pierced with a pitchfork.

Owners of summer cottages and household plots should not give up the compost pit. This is not only an opportunity to obtain affordable fertilizers, but also a respect for the environment. After all, burning dry grass and leaves is harmful to nature. The law provides for a fine for such actions. A compost pit solves the problem of waste removal and disposal.

Every gardener knows how important it is to fertilize the soil in the garden and in the garden on time and with high quality in order to get a good harvest as a result. You can buy ready-made compost, spending quite large sums on it, almost equal to the cost of the crop itself, or you can make it yourself without much effort.

A do-it-yourself compost pit, the options for which will be considered in this publication, will help not only to make high-quality fertilizers, saving on their purchase, but also to functionally use waste from plant products. There are several approaches to its creation, but first, a few words about the purpose and importance of this agrotechnical structure.

Purpose and general principles of creating a compost pit

What are compost pits made for?

On every plot of land, at least some cultivated plants are necessarily planted, and without feeding they will eventually lose their vitality, wither and die, as the soil around them is depleted.

Therefore, whether it is a tree, shrub or annual vegetable crops, the soil for them must be fertilized periodically. Today in specialized stores there are a large number of fertilizers made on different bases, but not all are equally useful for plants and unsafe for humans. Some producers make compost, however, and they are not always conscientious. To accelerate the maturation of humus, some of these "agrochemists" use not biological, but chemical means that quickly decompose various organic substances, and it is simply impossible for an ignorant person who does not have special knowledge to check how the processing took place. Therefore, having run into such a product, you can not only not achieve an increase in the yield of a vegetable garden or garden, but, on the contrary, spoil the soil to such an extent that it will take many years to restore it.

That is why the best option is to make organic fertilizers on your own, especially since almost all the necessary components can always be found literally underfoot or in the kitchen after cooking.

Any territory is periodically put in order, and in the process of harvesting heaps of grass and fallen leaves are collected, mixed with fallen fruits, as well as branches after cutting trees and bushes - all this is perfect for making compost.

If you do not touch the loaded compost pit, the maturation of the compost will take quite a long time. And provided that special biological solutions containing live bacteria are added to it, fertilizer can be obtained in 3-4 months. However, in order for the “ripening” process inside the compost pits and containers to take place evenly, the mass must be periodically mixed and added to it preparations that accelerate the processes of natural decomposition of organic matter.

Requirements for arranging a compost pit

In order for the compost pit to function properly, its design must provide all the necessary conditions for the development and active life of bacteria that will process plant waste.

The conditions necessary for the normal functioning of bacteria include the following factors:

• The presence of free access of oxygen to the container (pit), so that the plant waste contained in it does not rot, emitting unpleasant odors, but is split under the influence of earthworms and beneficial bacteria.
• Special temperature regime
• Constant high humidity.

High-quality fertilizer can be obtained only if all these conditions are met, and for this it is necessary to correctly build or assemble a compost container from ready-made materials.

The requirements that must be met when building this useful structure can be listed in the following points:

• The container must have openings in its walls for free air access, which means that the best option would be to install it above the soil level.
• For the convenience of removing the finished compost from the container, the front or side wall is best made in the form of a door, or assembled from removable boards.
• If the compost pit is set up in a pit dug in the ground, then it should not be buried more than 500 mm. The mass laid in such a pit must be mixed quite often by adding a solution with live bacteria to it.
• A mobile compost container looks very attractive - if it has at least some aesthetic appearance, it can be installed anywhere on the site. The only thing that needs to be foreseen is that he should not constantly be in the sun. Therefore, it is best to find a place for the container in partial shade under the trees. In addition, if desired, it can be decorated with a removable

• The size of the compost container or pit depends on how much fertilizer is supposed to be produced for the needs of the site. But it is best that its dimensions do not exceed 1000 × 2000 mm. If the site is large and a lot of humus will be needed, then it is recommended to make several small containers with an approximate size of 800 × 1000 mm.
• Do not make the container box too high - it must have a height that will allow the process of loosening the mass to be easily loosened, and this must be done quite often. Therefore, it is most reasonable to foresee the height depending on the growth of the gardener.
• No matter what material the compost bin is made of, its bottom should not be covered - it always remains earthen. Thus, moisture will be maintained in the box, which will come from the soil. In addition, free movement will be ensured for earthworms, which also take an active part in the production of humus.

What kind of waste can I put in the compost bin?

The compost will be of high quality and useful for plants only if it is made from environmentally friendly plant products. Therefore, you need to know what can be stacked in a container and what absolutely cannot.

• Tree branches (but they only fit on the bottom of the composter - this will be a kind of drainage layer).
• Fallen leaves, needles, roots, bark and shredded tree branches.
• Mowed or weeded grass.
• Peelings of vegetables, fruits and berries, as well as spoiled fruits.
• Chicken droppings, matured two-year rotted manure.
• Ash and charcoal from wood burning.
• Sawdust, straw, hay, shavings and other small wood waste.
• Leftovers from tea and coffee.
• Paper bags, corrugated cardboard, used napkins and paper (naturally, in the absence of printing ink or stationery glue on the waste paper).
• Sometimes the lower branch drainage layer spills out with lime for the soonest splitting of the wood.

All plant waste, for example, layers of freshly cut grass, must be sprinkled with a layer of garden soil, since decomposition will take place more slowly without it.

It is also very important to know what should never be put into compost, otherwise you may not help, but harm the plants.

Garden container prices

garden container

So, inorganic substances that do not decompose or, decomposing, emit toxic substances that are dangerous not only for plants, but also for humans, cannot be poured into the container. In addition, there are other substances and products that should not be put into compost pits. These include:

• Plastic bags, plastic, rubber, metal and synthetic products.
• Plants treated with chemicals.
• Tops from potatoes and tomatoes - it can be infected with late blight.
• Bones from fruit trees and animal bones.
• Domestic animal feces - they can contain helminths and their eggs.
• Pet hair, as it will take a long time to decompose.
• It is important to make sure that glass does not get into the compost, as it can seriously injure your hand when processing the beds.
• It is not recommended to lay thick branches in the upper layers - they will decompose for too long.

What are compost pits and how to make them yourself?

Compost pits or containers are made of different materials - it can be wood, metal, smooth or wave slate, metal mesh and plastic wrap or geotextiles, black plastic bags, and more. The design of containers can also be different, but it should function according to the same principle. Next, we will consider the designs of various compost pits, from complex to the simplest options, so the reader will have the opportunity to choose the most suitable one for a particular case.

The first option is a ready-made plastic container

To begin with, it is worth considering a ready-made version of the composter, which can be purchased in specialized stores. These are plastic containers made taking into account all the necessary conditions for the production of humus.

Containers of various sizes and shapes have quite affordable prices, which start from 1,300 rubles, and if there is no possibility or desire to make a compost pit on your own, then the best way out would be to purchase this agricultural facility ready-made.

The containers are rather compact products with a neat and stylish look that will not spoil the landscape design of the site. Moreover, most often the plastic of such composters is colored green, which helps the container visually "get lost" against the background of the vegetation of the site.

The containers are sold unassembled, so they can be easily delivered to the installation site, even by public transport. The kit comes with assembly instructions, and it will not be difficult to mount such a container on your own, since no tools are required for this.

For the convenience of removing ready-made humus from the composter, a side door is provided in the design, which simplifies its operation.

Composters are made of frost-resistant UV-stabilized plastic, which perfectly withstands the effects of ultraviolet radiation, precipitation, wind and temperature extremes. The advantage of this design in comparison with the "classic" compost pit, arranged in the ground, is that it will not become a source of unpleasant odor, since the aeration system provided in the container does not allow the waste to rot.

The second option is a homemade wooden compost bin

This version of the compost pit will not be so easy to make with your own hands for those land owners who do not have carpentry tools or do not know how to work with them. However, knowing the size of the blanks, they can be ordered at the carpentry shop, and assembling the box yourself should not be a problem anymore, since this process does not require special tools. If the "carpentry tool arsenal" is available, and there is at least a little experience with it, then the manufacturing process will be simple and quick.

So, for a wooden compost container, you need 24 boards 1500 mm long, 25 mm thick and 150 mm wide.

From the tools you will need a circular saw or jigsaw, a regular or electric plane, clamps, a tape measure and a simple pencil.

Illustration
	The first step is to manufacture the parts for the container. It is advisable to use high-quality durable wood for this purpose, which will be resistant to external natural influences, such as moisture, wind, temperature extremes and ultraviolet rays. This is due to the fact that the container will be located permanently on the street. And besides, the wood will be exposed not only from the outside, but also from the biological - from the inside, as the processes of decomposition of plant waste will actively take place there.
	Planks are sawn and trimmed from all sides so that they look neat enough. This is especially important if the container is located on a site that is clearly visible - probably, no one would like the box to spoil the landscape design.
	After the boards are prepared, they are folded together and tightened tightly with clamps on both sides. Further, 100 mm is measured from each of the edges, then it is set aside and marked with a pencil another 25 mm - this will be the width of the groove to be cut. The depth of the groove must also be 25 mm.
	Then, cuts are made on the marked boards. To do this, the depth of cut is set on a hand-held circular saw, and in the area marked on the boards, many cuts are made at a distance of 1 ÷ 2 mm from one another. When the wood is broken into small pieces, it can be easily removed from the boards with the same saw.
	When the grooves on one side are ready, the boards are turned on the opposite side. Marking is also made on it - from the edge, 100 is first deposited, and then 25 mm. Then the process of cutting the grooves is repeated. The grooves on one side and the other along the width of the boards should be exactly opposite each other - as shown in this illustration.
	The next step is to take two boards with grooves, fold and fasten together with clamps. A line is drawn dividing the boards exactly in half - in this case, it is 75 mm from the edge, and the boards are sawn according to this marking. These parts will be used to install the lower and upper, that is, the last row of the structure.
	Further, all surfaces of the finished boards, including the cut grooves, must be treated with one of the antiseptic solutions. This tool will prevent putrefactive processes and extend the life of the wood. The antiseptic is applied with a wide brush. It is important to make sure that there are no untreated areas left, otherwise decomposition of wood may begin from them under the influence of processes occurring inside the container and external natural factors.
	After the wood is completely dry, you can proceed to the assembly of the structure. The container should be installed on bricks, as there should be space for air from below. The bricks are placed on site where the compost bin will be permanently installed. The installation site must be relatively flat so that there are no distortions of the container walls during assembly.
	The assembly begins with the fact that two boards are installed on the edge of reliably laid bricks, having a groove on only one side. They are positioned so that the groove points up.
	Further, perpendicular to them, boards are installed with two oppositely placed grooves, that is, on each side. The bottom groove of the top board should fit into the groove of the bottom board, which is standing on the bricks. This is well illustrated in the illustration.
	The next step is to mount boards parallel to the lower structural elements. The entire box is assembled according to the same system, to the very top. The work takes place quite quickly - if necessary, the board installed from above is knocked out by hand or, neatly, with a hammer.
	The last two boards are installed, which have grooves on only one side - they, of course, are mounted with cutouts down. The result is a "well" with the required distance between the boards through which oxygen will enter the compost.
	It is not enough to make and install such a box - it is also very important to fill it correctly. The lower layer of filler is branches (in this design, it will be located between the bricks installed under the container). And the thickness of such a layer should be up to half the width of the lower wide board, which has grooves on both sides. The branches need to be laid tightly enough, as they will act as drainage. On top of the branches, lime 70 ÷ 80 mm is poured, and then waste, then a layer of soil (its thickness should be about 100 mm.). Then again comes waste, ash and soil. Then, waste, manure, soil and again waste. In this case, ash, manure and lime can be interchanged periodically. It should be noted that this is only one of the options for filling, as each gardener invents his own "recipes" and uses different components to make compost.

This design is good for everyone, except that it will not be very convenient to get the finished compost out of it. Most often, the option of a compost bin with an installed door or with removable boards is chosen.

In this design, I would like to consider exactly the front side of the container, which is equipped with removable boards installed at an angle to additional corner vertical posts.

To fix them at an angle, complex slots are cut out at an angle on one side of the boards that form the side walls of the container. To make them the same, the boards are folded together in pairs, fastened with clamps, and then the marked part of the groove is selected with a jigsaw.

The result of the work done will be the container shown in the illustration below. It clearly shows the boards installed at an angle and two added vertical posts holding the side walls from the "front" side.

One more circumstance must be taken into account. This is that not treated with an antiseptic and unpainted wood under the influence of moisture can swell, and under the influence of the sun it can begin to dry out, giving cracks. In this case, it will be very difficult to get the boards out of the grooves. Therefore, I make the grooves in such a way that initially the boards come out very freely, and before assembling the structure, it is recommended to process and paint its elements. In addition, it is best to install a wooden structure under a roof or under the crown of trees.

The container can be one- or two-section, open or closed. It is better, of course, to build a two-section version, or put two composters side by side, since they can be used in turn - use ready-made humus from one container while it ripens in another. Having emptied the first composter, they switch to using compost from another, and the first is again filled with waste.

If the territory of the site allows you to place the container away from residential buildings, then it can be made open. If the composter is installed near the house or recreation areas, then it is recommended to equip it with a cover.

The third option is making a compost basket

This method of making a container for the production of compost is so simple that any gardener can do it on his own, since the process does not require any special efforts and be able to work with complex tools.

For the manufacture of this version of the container, the following materials are required:

• Welded metal mesh with cells of 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm - 3000 mm long, 700 to 1000 mm wide - this will be the height of the basket. The width of the material is selected at the request of the master. You can choose a regular steel mesh, but it is better if it has a polymer anti-corrosion coating.
• Dense polyethylene film or black geotextile, 3500 mm long and 750 ÷ 1050 mm wide (depending on the planned height of the future basket).
• Stationery clips - 8 ÷ 10 pieces.
• Flexible and durable knitting wire for holding the mesh together.

From the tools, you will need to prepare ordinary scissors and scissors for metal, pliers and a tape measure.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	The metal mesh is unfolded and leveled. A strip with a length of 3000 mm is measured from it.
	Then the cut strip is rolled into a cylinder, so that the edges overlap, about 200 mm. This connection point along the entire height of the cylinder must be carefully tied with wire or plastic clamps - ties.
	Further, a polyethylene film or geotextile is spread, the canvas of the required size is measured and cut off. (The work will go faster if there is such an assistant))).
	In the next step, the cut film or geotextile is rolled up and installed inside the basket. Then, the material is spread over the walls.
	The top edge of the film is wrapped outward over the edge of the net and is hooked to the basket walls using clerical clips. They will securely fix the canvas and will not allow it to detach, even when mixing the compost.
	That's it - the compost bin is ready. It turns out to be not at all heavy, so it can be easily transferred to any area of ​​the site.
	Further, the resulting container is filled with various debris of plant origin, which is stacked in layers. The first, lowest layer, is the branches, which are covered with soil, then any grass, fallen leaves, waste after cleaning vegetables from the kitchen, etc. Then there is a layer of soil again, and then plant waste. After filling the basket, its contents must be spilled with water, so that it goes to the bottom of the container. After that, a special environmentally friendly product containing bacteria is diluted and infused, which contribute to the rapid decomposition of plant products, which will significantly accelerate the maturation of the compost. Getting compost out of the basket is quite simple - you just need to lift one edge of the container, scoop out the finished compost with a shovel, put it in a garden cart and take it to the fertilized area of ​​the plot.

Here it is necessary to clarify the point that if a polyethylene film is used for the inner covering of the basket, then it is necessary to cut holes in it for oxygen to enter the processed mass. If it is decided to use geotextiles for the compost basket, it will not be necessary to cut it, since it is a “breathable” material, that is, it allows air to pass through well, and also retains moisture, preventing its rapid evaporation.

The fourth option is a concrete compost pit

The construction of a concrete structure is a rather laborious work. In addition, if the pit is set below the upper level of the ground, it turns out to be not quite convenient for removing the finished product. In addition, building will cost much more than arranging a wooden version or making a basket. However, if there is a desire to work with concrete and build a capital structure, then you need to know how the work on its construction and maintenance is carried out.

Geotextile prices

geotextile

You can build a pit with one or two compartments. If the second option is chosen, then one compartment is intended for ripe humus, and the second is for constant replenishment.

Since oxygen can enter such a hole only through the top, the cover for it must be made of mesh.

The bottom of the pit is not concreted and not waterproofed, since it must remain earthen so that earthworms have access to plant waste, and also to ensure the mass is moistened by soil moisture.

In such a space that does not have aeration, the waste placed in it can begin to rot, so it will be necessary to carry out loosening quite often, providing access to air.

Work on the arrangement of a concrete structure consists of the following stages:

• The first step according to the marking carried out in the selected place is dug a foundation pit. In length and width, it can be of any size, starting from 1000 mm and more. Here it must be borne in mind that the inner space of the pit will decrease due to the construction of the side walls. The depth of the pit can vary from 500 to 800 mm, but the deeper the pit is, the more difficult it will be to get ready-made humus from there and the more difficult it is to regularly loosen the mass.
• The next step along the walls, to the entire height of the pit, is a formwork made of boards or thick plywood. It is mounted at a distance of 100 ÷ 150 mm from the ground surfaces - this space will be the thickness of the walls.

Before sheathing the formwork frame with boards or plywood, a reinforcing mesh is mounted between it and the earth walls. After that, the formwork sheathing is fixed to the frame.

• Further, it is mixed from sand, gravel and cement in a ratio of 2: 4: 1. This process is best carried out in a concrete mixer or in a large container, for example, a bathtub or a spacious garden wheelbarrow is suitable, since it is advisable to pour the solution into the formwork at one time.
• At the next stage, the solution is poured into the formwork, and "bayoned", that is, it is repeatedly pierced with a pipe or a piece of reinforcement reaching the bottom - this process is carried out so that air pockets do not form in the concrete. After the formwork is filled, the poured concrete is left to dry and build strength. It is advisable to carry out stripping not earlier than after 10-12 days.
• After the mortar has solidified, the walls of the pit must be raised above the ground with the help of brickwork, or by rebuilding the formwork on top of the finished walls that strengthen the foundation pit, reinforce it and fill it with concrete. The height of the side framing the pit edges should be equal to 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• The walls of the pit can also be reinforced with brickwork, but under it, along the perimeter of the bottom of the pit, it will be necessary to pour concrete into the strip base.

If it is decided to decorate the walls with brickwork, then it should not be made solid. It is best if there are holes in it that will allow ground moisture and earthworms to penetrate into the pit.

In such a pit (without air access to its lower part), the process of waste processing until humus is fully ripe will take about two years. And to speed it up, you will need to pour a special solution containing live bacteria designed for similar conditions into the plant mass.

The fifth option is a slate composter

Building a slate compost pit is a fairly simple and affordable way, especially if the farm has preserved the old, seemingly unnecessary roofing material.

It does not matter if the sheets are slightly damaged, since the entry of air into the plant mass will only be a blessing, especially since slate containers are most often made open. The slate will perform only the function of the walls, preventing the contents from scattering outside the area organized for the composter. To create such a box, you need to do the following work:

• As in previous cases, you first need to decide on the size and design of the container, that is, how many sections it will have. The optimal size of the sides of each of the sections of the two-section version is 800 × 1000 or 1000 × 1000 mm. The height of all walls, except for the front one, should be 700 ÷ 1000 mm, depending on the expected amount of waste. The front wall can have a height of 300 ÷ 500 mm, which will be convenient for loading waste and sampling finished humus.
• Having chosen a site for installing the box and having made its marking, the topsoil is removed from it by 200 ÷ 250 mm for free penetration into the mass of soil moisture and earthworms.
• To fix the slate sheets in a vertical position, wooden or metal posts are installed along the perimeter of the site. They may need from four to six, depending on the design of the composter.
• Then, slate is fixed to the uprights. It is desirable that a gap of 20-25 mm remains between the lower edge of the sheets and the surface of the soil, which will allow oxygen to freely enter the lower layers of the plant mass.

For faster processing, it is recommended to moisten the stacked waste by adding composting agents with live bacteria to the water.

The sixth option is a compost pit in the ground

This is probably the most common way of arranging a compost pit, which is often chosen by not very experienced gardeners. As you can see from the information presented above, this is far from the most successful version of the composter, since plant waste in it will begin to rot rather than decompose.

Metal mesh prices

metal grid

Such a pit is best used simply for dumping organic waste that is not intended for the production of humus. If the pit is being built precisely for this purpose, then it is best to place it away from residential buildings, since rotting debris attracts a large number of flies, which will tend to visit not only the garbage pit, but also the premises of the house.

If this option nevertheless turns out to be attractive as a compost pit, then it will be necessary to loosen the plant waste piled into it very often in order to provide the aeration necessary for proper processing.

It is not difficult to equip such a pit - for this, a pit 400 ÷ 600 mm deep is dug away from the house. The size of its sides may be different, but the best option is 600 × 600 or 700 × 700 mm. The large size of an unreinforced pit can lead to erosion processes in the soil around it, that is, it will begin to crumble and expand. If a pit of a larger size is needed, then its walls must be strengthened at least with slate, setting it to the full depth.

It is recommended to sprinkle kitchen waste dumped into the pit, such as cleaning from vegetables and fruits, with grass and a small amount of soil - this will partially help hide the unpleasant odor that attracts flies.

It will not be superfluous to add special substances to such a composter, however, it is necessary to choose environmentally friendly preparations, since chemistry with rain and soil moisture can spread to the garden beds or fall under the roots of trees.

Seventh option - composting waste directly on the ground

Another method for preparing fertilizers, which is often used in rural areas, is the storage of plant residues in the form of a stack. This is the simplest compost production method available to any owner. However, it has some inconveniences, since it is rather inconvenient to loosen the mass folded into a stack, as well as to get ready compost from under the upper fresh layers.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to opt for this option, then before laying waste, it is recommended to lay a layer of branches on the ground, which will allow oxygen to freely penetrate into the lower layers of the stack. In this variant, the compost will reach full maturation after one and a half to two years.

If it is not possible to build a composter and even perform the laborious work of erecting and loosening a stack of plant waste, then there is another simplest way to make compost. It can be called "feminine", since all this is done without any special physical effort.

In this case, waste is also piled right on top of the soil. The best place for this is partial shade, which can always be found under the trees in the garden. You can organize such a composter right on a temporarily unused garden bed, covering the laid plant waste with any dark material. This compost heap does not have to be high and can be easily loosened with a pitchfork. If there is a lot of waste, then several heaps are organized, in different parts of the garden. With this approach, ready-made humus does not have to be transported from one corner of the garden to another, since it will be produced in the area that needs to be fertilized.

Find out how to do with step-by-step instructions in a new article on our portal.

However, in this case, one cannot do without bioactivators. Compost production works in the following order:

• A heap of plant waste with a height of no more than 500 mm is placed on the soil. Each layer is sprinkled with garden soil.
• Then, all waste is watered, as all layers must be wet.
• Further, according to the attached instructions, the bioactivator is diluted, infused, and the whole heap is watered with this solution.
• The wet biomass is covered with dark material, but in such a way that the bottom of the heap is slightly open for free access of oxygen. If there is no dark film or, then an old oilcloth, which does not allow sunlight to pass through, will do. The corners of the covering material are pressed against the ground by heavy objects such as stones or bricks.
• The finished structure is left for overheating. Well, you need to loosen it about once every two weeks.
• According to experienced summer residents using this method of making humus, its full ripening occurs after 5-6 months.

Biological products for composting

Now a few words should be said about the preparations used for composting.

Today, in specialized stores, you can find a large number of different products that help to reduce the decomposition of biological waste.

When using bioactivators for making compost, it matures much faster than when decomposing plant waste in natural conditions. And this is especially important when the site needs to be fertilized annually, since it is constantly used for growing crops.

Bioactive agents containing, contribute not only to the rapid production of humus, but also to the destruction of harmful microorganisms, the elimination of unpleasant odors, as well as the enrichment of the soil with mineral substances. The manufacture of solutions from concentrates is carried out according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer on the packaging. However, experienced gardeners advise adding a little sugar or old jam to them after diluting bioactivators. This will help to give a kind of "acceleration" of the initial activation of living bacteria, which are in a "dormant" state before breeding. After dilution, the solution should be slightly infused. It is interesting - if mixing it in a bucket, then you can even visually observe how the activation process will go.

The table below lists several drugs that can be found in shops that sell gardening and fertilizing products.

Bioactivator names	Package weight or volume (grams or milliliters)	Average price in rubles (summer 2017)
"Compostar"	50	200
"Compost" (compost for 15 days)	100	360
"Baikal EM-1"	40	380
"Compostello"	70	200
"Happy Summer Resident"	45	120
"Bioforce Compost"	250	580
"Sanex EcoCompost"	100	300
"Dr. Robik 209"	60	180
"ETISSO Kompost vital"	1000	670
"Sanex Ecocompost"	1000	280
"Compost 25"	1000	300

If the aforementioned funds were not found in the nearest store, then the seller will certainly offer other options for bioactivators. Before purchasing the selected drug, you should carefully study its characteristics, manufacturer's recommendations for use and instructions for preparing a working solution.

In conclusion, I would like to say that according to the information presented above about the existing options for arranging a composter for processing plant waste, it is quite possible to decide on the choice of a suitable option. It depends on financial capabilities and practical experience with various materials and tools. And the presence of a compost pit on a garden plot, in any of its incarnations, is always a big plus.

And for completeness - watch a very informative video, which contains recommendations for self-production of compost from plant waste.

Video: Tips for the gardener on how to make quality compost

Many novice businessmen are thinking about manufacturing at home. This desire is fully justified, especially in connection with the realities of the present time. We have already written an article about. In this article, we'll go over a variety of home-making ideas and comment on each idea. We also ask you to suggest your home production ideas in the comments under the article to supplement the article.

Benefits of home production

1. The need to spend the lion's share of income on rental of premises... This is home production. This issue is especially problematic for start-up entrepreneurs, where rents can eat up most of the profits.
2. At first, such a production can be unofficially... Of course, this is only a temporary measure, which, nevertheless, will help to get back on its feet and gain a foothold in the chosen industry.
3. Ability to adjust production volumes... All costs will be driven by raw material costs. This allows you to change the volume of production depending on the demand for the offered product.
4. The minimum investment size.
5. The ability to make a profit almost immediately.

All this allows you to multiply the chances of success and significantly reduce the risks. Next, the most popular and profitable business ideas for production will be presented. At the same time, they will be divided into blocks depending on the ability to work in an apartment or the need to carry out all the work in a private house.

Home production in an apartment

In this block, the direction of home production is highlighted, which can be done right in your apartment. For more convenience, we have divided ideas into thematic blocks.

Food

Household is one of the most popular industries today. This demand is primarily due to the fact that the offered goods are everyday goods.

Fragrant pastries without leaving your home

It is not at all necessary to have a special education to cook homemade goodies. Many women who cook well are successful in this line of business. For work, you will need very little: a mixer, kitchen utensils. Any attentive hostess has it all in the kitchen. Additionally, you can purchase special equipment with which you can knead the dough. A regular oven for small volumes will suffice. Special attention should be paid to baking recipes and their appearance. Taste and aesthetic qualities must be at their best so that buyers are interested in the product. You can subsequently sell pastries on the street or fulfill orders from restaurants and coffee shops.

Homemade jam

Necessary costs: from 7-8 thousand rubles.

For such production, additional equipment may not be required. For normal operation, you need: pots, jars with lids of different sizes (preferably small, since it will be easier to sell them), a seaming machine. As for raw materials, then you can go in two ways: either buy products in stores or markets, or take everything you need from your own garden. It should be noted that the profitability of such a business in winter is about 30%. But selling jam in the summer is less profitable. Therefore, the workpieces made in the summer can be held until winter and sold at a better price.

Pickles

Necessary costs: from 10-12 thousand rubles.

Vegetables and mushrooms can be used as a base. The former can be grown independently or purchased at a bargain price from farmers, the latter can be harvested in the forest or purchased at the markets. For work, you will need your own stove, cans, lids, a seamer and the actual raw materials. By the way, you don't have to limit yourself to cucumbers and mushrooms. The following dishes are quite popular today: sauerkraut and pickled cabbage, Korean carrots. It is worth thinking in advance about product marketing. If the production is still very small, you can offer to buy something to your acquaintances, friends, neighbors.

Production of semi-finished products

Here, an option is being considered when an entrepreneur is engaged in the manufacture of sausages, sausages, dumplings, dumplings from meat purchased from farmers or at meat processing plants. If the businessman plans to raise animals himself, then he will need a country farm in which he will keep livestock. In this case, you will need to obtain permission to carry out sales at the Sanitary and Epidemiological Station. All actions will have to be coordinated with them too.

Therefore, semi-finished products are the most acceptable option. In the beginning, it is better not to make the assortment large. About 30 items will be more than enough. It is worth taking care of the cooking recipes. The tastier and more unusual the product is, the greater the demand for it will be.

To work, you need ordinary kitchen utensils. Particular attention should be paid to the choice of knives, meat grinder. You will need a separate freezer for storing finished products and simple meat.

Homemade phyto tea

Necessary costs: from 4-6 thousand rubles.

Today, people are increasingly looking after their health and well-being. That is why the demand for “healthy” products is growing rapidly. Various herbal teas are no exception. At the same time, the work does not require special tools and costs. Herbal gathering can be done on your own in the summer, leaving for nature. The missing ingredients can be purchased at the pharmacy. In this case, the sale is best done dry. You can also think about beautiful packaging of the goods - buy special bags, print labels with the manufacturer's phone number, name and composition of the collection. It is very important to respect the proportions. A variety of recipes and the addition of spices, aromatic herbs will only increase demand. For work, you will need measuring scales, containers and raw materials.

Packing bulk goods

Necessary costs: from 10-15 thousand rubles.

In this case, the sales volume will largely depend on how the packaging is designed. What can be packaged? Nuts, seeds, cereals. You can buy these goods at the warehouse or at some warehouse, pack them at home and offer your neighbors to buy a package of goodies at a bargain price. If you go to a more serious level, you will need a more detailed and professional approach to the creation of packaging. At first, you can do this manually. And gradually look for large customers who will be ready to buy products in bulk.

Needlework

This block contains such production formats that require special skills or talent from an entrepreneur.

Decorative ornaments made of polymer clay

Necessary costs: from 8-10 thousand rubles.

The main advantage over many stores will be individuality, the uniqueness of the offered items. Technically speaking, the process is pretty straightforward. For work, you need special boards, knives of different sizes, material, small decorations in the form of sequins, beads, buttons, chains and other things. In order for a product to be in demand, you need to put imagination, enthusiasm and skills into your products. The low cost helps to get a decent income for handicrafts.

Handmade boxes

Necessary costs: from 3-4 thousand rubles.

There are many options. They can be made from wood, shells, sequins, beads and other decorations. In this case, all costs are reduced to the purchase of the necessary raw materials. Interesting ideas, schemes can always be found on the Internet. Particular attention should be paid to the upholstery of the inside of the box, handles. If the product is rather large, it makes sense to insert a mirror in size into it. It is worth taking care of the creation of special fasteners for storing rings, earrings, chains.

Handmade stained glass

Necessary costs: from 14-18 thousand rubles.

Such decorations are used today to decorate the interior. Stained-glass windows are attached to walls, partitions, windows, doors. At the same time, the competition in this industry is not so high. Of course, it takes skill to get the job done. Artistic ability is also encouraged. This work is quite laborious, but the pay will be impressive. Depending on the technique, you may need: oil paints, epoxy resin, glue, gelatin, dyes. The drawing is applied to colored glass. This is usually done not with brushes, but with thin needles - it is with the help of them that the contours of the image are drawn, and only then they are painted.

Handmade soap

Necessary costs: from 8-15 thousand rubles.

Today many people buy similar products. Usually they are bought as a gift for a holiday. It is during the pre-holiday periods that the demand for this product is very high. To make soap you will need: essence (base), aromatic oils, jewelry, special forms, fragrances. It is worth thinking in advance about the recipes for making. It is better to make the first batch very small and use it yourself. You can earn even more by beautifully packing souvenirs. This will require special paper, ribbons, bows, strings. You can attach a contact phone number to presentations so that the recipients of the gift can buy soap if they like it.

Manufacturing of frameless furniture

Necessary costs: from 5-6 thousand rubles.

In this case, we are considering an interesting novelty - the production of bean bags. These are such soft pear-shaped chairs. Each time they take the form of the body of the seated person. A similar product in stores costs about 6 thousand rubles. Moreover, the cost does not exceed a thousand. For production, you will need a sewing machine, material, filler, threads. It is better to sell such products via the Internet. But it is also necessary to offer goods to acquaintances as soon as possible.

Montessori hand toy

Necessary costs: from 4-8 thousand rubles.

It is also called a business board. Such products are in great demand among young parents. When making these toys, it is very important to think over all the details - from packaging to the quality of every detail. When creating your own model, you can borrow one of the ideas you already have. In this case, you will not need a certificate authorizing the use of the intellectual property object, since the business board is an object of folk art. To create such toys, you do not need expensive equipment, and the materials are quite inexpensive. One such product can be sold for 5-15 thousand rubles. Selling Montessori toys is best done online. Delivery by mail in Russia will not be so difficult. For work, you may need a variety of parts, a board to which they will be attached and tools for fastening.

Atelier at home

In fact, it is no different from the usual one, except for the volume of production. At the same time, the seamstress will receive all the profits, which can significantly reduce the final cost of the product. The work will require special knowledge, skills, work experience. The demand for a master can mean that he will initially have regular customers who can bring several more people with him. To work you will need: a sewing machine, a place for cutting, overlock, knives, scissors, consumables, buttons, lace, ruffles, locks, zippers and more. In this case, materials can be purchased at the expense of the customer or work with already selected ones. High quality designer items are very much appreciated today.

Handmade souvenirs

Necessary costs: from 6-50 thousand rubles.

Here you can work in one of two directions: hand made or manufacturing business products ... In the second case, we mean advertising products applied to different surfaces (pens, T-shirts). The first format is more seasonal. At the same time, for work, you may need consumables in the form of fabrics, beads, wood, and others. But for working with promotional gifts, the initial costs will include the purchase of professional equipment. Everything will depend on the choice of direction. You can work with:

• ceramic surfaces (decal or silk-screen printing);
• plastic;
• fabric (embroidery, thermal drawing);
• metal (laser engraving).

In this case, you may need various machines, presses, MFPs, printers. It is cheaper to buy such equipment in China.

Decoupage

Necessary costs: from 13-15 thousand rubles.

You can decorate with this technique many items, including furniture, napkins, tablecloths. Almost anyone can do this. It is only important to be assiduous and be patient. Over time, skills improve the quality of work. That's when you can do decoupage for sale. For work you will need: glue, brushes, sponges, paints, primer, sandpaper, a special decoupage agent, blanks from different materials (wood, cardboard, glass, etc.) and decor items. You can sell such products to friends and acquaintances. The best thing to do is to supply via the Internet. You can even start only from your city, and then expand production.

Magnets as a gift

Necessary costs: from 7-9 thousand rubles.

To many, this type of business seems frivolous due to the low cost of the products. In fact, you can make very good money on this. The originality of the manufactured products and their aesthetic component will be important factors. You can work in several directions at once:

• magnets with inscriptions;
• funny and funny items;
• educational magnets for children or even whole sets;
• calendars with magnets;
• holiday magnets for certain holidays.

At the same time, not so much is needed to organize such a production. First, you need the magnets themselves, on which the main structure will be attached. But the surface can be decorated as you like - make something out of wood, plastic, paint on glass, make engraving, use polymer clay.

Home Production Ideas for Men

The ideas below are most typical for men. That is why we have separated them into a separate block. This does not mean at all that a woman cannot engage in these activities.

Glass engraving

Necessary costs: from 20–35 thousand rubles.

If it comes to manual engraving using special devices, then such a production can be placed right in the apartment. If you plan to use a special compressor and stencils, then it is better to deploy activities in a separate house or garage. The main advantage of this business is its exclusivity. Not so many people are engaged in such work. You can do this as a hobby and get pretty good money for it. In addition to tools, you will also need material on which inscriptions and drawings will be applied.

Manufacturing of belts and leather accessories

Necessary costs: from 25 thousand rubles.

These products are popular with people of all ages. The demand for the idea also lies in the fact that the accessory will be made by hand, which adds exclusivity and originality to it. For work you will need leather, special hole punches, machines for sewing edges, jewelry. The profitability of this idea is at least 300%. Pig skin can be used as material, for example. You can buy it from local farmers for 200 rubles (price for one belt). In this case, sales can be carried out via the Internet.

Production of keys

You can set up a mini-workshop at home. The payback of this business attracts many entrepreneurs. At the same time, the production technique does not require any additional skills. To be able to work with different types of keys, you will have to purchase machines of different types. For the first time, 4–5 different ones are enough. Each of them can cost about 14-70 thousand rubles. It is better not to buy Chinese-made machines, as they often break down within a year after the start of use. You will also need material for making duplicates. As an accompanying production, you can repair watches, locks, clothes. This idea is highly cost effective. The mark-up for one duplicate can be about 500-1000%.

Seasonal home production

This section includes those types of production that are considered seasonal. This means that the rest of the time you will have to do something else to get tangible profits.

Making brooms for a bath

Necessary costs: from 20-25 thousand rubles (the cost of the car is not included).

You can harvest brooms from July to August. But you can sell them at any time of the year. In other months, it is not recommended to make brooms, as they will be of lower quality. Today, most often people acquire the following types of brooms:

• birch;
• oak;
• lime.

It is on them that you need to focus. You can add medicinal or aromatic herbs to them. In order to safely use forest resources, it is necessary to conclude an appropriate contract with forestry. The collection of material can be done directly in the forest, and drying - in a separate room. This can be done at home if there is a separate room for this. Do not exclude the option of going out of town to your own house. The profitability of such production is about 100-150%. For work you need an ax, a car for transporting goods, materials for a bunch of brooms.

Making felt boots

This business idea consists in processing sheep wool and making felt boots from it. This type of production is seasonal, since warm footwear is mainly needed in December – February. The rest of the time the business generates significantly less income. This type of footwear is especially relevant for residents of villages and cities of the northern region. In addition, the cost of the final product can be increased due to the exclusive design and decor. In the summer, you can, if you wish, make car rugs, slippers, bags. For work you will need: pure wool, a carding machine, a felting machine, a post, a rolling pin. The creation process is quite complicated. Before tackling this business, it is worth studying the relevant literature, watching training videos.

Making kvass at home

Necessary costs: from 50 thousand rubles.

If the production is small, you can limit yourself to an apartment. Larger events are best done in a separate private house. This business is especially profitable during the hot season. Today the following types of kvass are most popular in Russia:

• bread;
• fruit;
• berry.

Small-scale production can do without special equipment, but large-scale production will require purchasing: barrels or stationary rack, kegs, bottling equipment, containers, cooler. You can sell goods on the street. Then you will need a special rack and chair. You can supply products in bulk to coffee shops, summer bars.

Private house production

This block includes ideas, for the work of which you will definitely need your own private house in order to separate the work area. In addition, such activities require more space than the previous ones. Mostly they all need a strong male hand, but there are exceptions.

Ideas for men

The ideas below are most typical for men. If desired, women can also establish production in these areas. However, without male power, it is unlikely that it will be possible to carry out production and marketing.

Furniture manufacturing

Necessary costs: from 55-60 thousand rubles.

This type of production is beneficial due to a number of factors. First, it doesn't require a lot of investment to work. Secondly, the term for the product is very long. At the same time, resources are nearby, and there is no seasonality for products, which allows you to work with maximum efficiency all year round. Parts for production can be purchased from factories. In this case, you will not be able to do without: a drill, a hammer drill, drills, a hammer, a saw, a screwdriver, a jigsaw and some other tools. For work, you will also need chipboard, countertops, facades and fittings to bring the furniture into a marketable condition. We'll have to think about the glazing of their products. Glasses can be ordered in special workshops or cut by yourself if you have special equipment.

Own carpentry production

Necessary costs: from 90 thousand rubles.

Such a workshop should have an area of ​​at least 50 m 2. The height of the ceilings should be more than usual - about 4 meters. Electricity must be provided. For the carpentry workshop to work, it is necessary to collect documents that must be submitted to the fire safety service. In addition, you will have to purchase a number of equipment, including: a jointer, a number of power tools, face and circular saws, chisels, mallets, hacksaws. It is very important to think over the range of goods that will be produced in the workshop. It can be small accessories in the form of door handles, and wooden figures, souvenirs, toys and much more. It is also necessary to think about how the tree will need to be processed before selling it directly. You can make tables, stools, tables from cheap materials, adding exclusivity to them with the help of exotic ornaments. Business profitability is on average 20-25%.

Manufacturing veneer doors

Necessary costs: from 85–90 rubles.

This variety can be attributed to the carpentry workshop. And yet, doors are usually manufactured separately. Such production is delivered to the stream. At the same time, the costs and necessary tools are the same as in the carpentry industry. The most important thing in this industry is to find your consumer. Work with wholesalers is possible. In this case, it is worth considering cooperation with construction and finishing firms.

Mirror tiles

Necessary costs: from 65-70 thousand rubles.

This type of production is considered to be highly profitable and very profitable. The manufactured products can be used for interior decoration. Moreover, it looks very interesting and impressive after such a restyling. You can work in this industry according to the following scheme: buy ready-made mirrors, cut them to suitable sizes and process the edges using special tools. For work you will need: glass cutter, table, emery wheel, which allows you to process the tiles. Later it will be possible to buy a special machine, which will significantly increase the speed of tile production.

Home production of bricks

Necessary costs: from 200-300 thousand rubles.

For work, you will need a fairly large room, so you need to carry out your activities in a private house. To work, an entrepreneur will need: a special machine (automatic semi-dry pressing press) and molds for production. The following consumables are required for manufacturing: sand, water, cement and dyes, clay. Some of these items can be purchased in bulk from vendors. Such a business can pay off within six months. The maximum profit of a small mini-plant can reach about 200 thousand rubles. The following types of bricks can be produced:

• silicate;
• facing;
• color.

Manufacturing of artificial marble from concrete

Necessary costs: from 150 thousand rubles.

This material is popular with companies that produce furniture. Such marble is quite specific, it is not so easy to establish its marketing. Profitability can vary greatly depending on local raw material and finished product prices. Polyester resin and a special filler are used as consumables. You will also need special machines, which are not so cheap. The cost price of one square meter is about 200–250 rubles. The same volume of finished products can be sold for 14 thousand rubles on average. Consequently, the profitability is about 600-700%. The income is tangible even with small production volumes.

Hand punching

Necessary costs: 10-15 thousand rubles.

This type of business is suitable for those who have little or no start-up capital. The work does not require specialized equipment, which significantly reduces the initial costs. In addition, the technology of such stamping allows the production of parts of various sizes, designs and geometries. An entrepreneur can easily expand the assortment presented in his production. The quantity of goods can also vary depending on the needs of the consumer. True, the profitability is not as high as, for example, in the production of bricks or artificial marble. First you need to study videos and workshops on working in this industry.

Manufacturing of metal structures

Necessary costs: from 40–45 thousand rubles.

This type of production is relevant due to the fact that at the present time, individual housing construction is developing very actively. Metal structures mean the manufacture of various gates, gates, canopies, protective grilles and other attributes. Moreover, it will not be difficult to sell such products due to the constant demand for them. For work, it will be necessary to purchase equipment for cold forging of individual structural elements. This will increase the efficiency and profit of the enterprise. Experience in this industry will be a significant plus. Sales channels are worth looking for in construction companies, repair offices and teams.

Production of foam blocks

Necessary costs: from 60-80 thousand rubles.

This type of production is also very popular among aspiring entrepreneurs. Such interest is associated with the high demand for the product, and hence the easy sale of foam blocks. In addition, such a business is very profitable, and the invested funds pay off in just a couple of months. Foam concrete is very popular due to the presence of the following properties:

• thermal insulation;
• soundproofing;
• high strength (not inferior in this to stone structures).

You don't need specialized equipment to make block molds - you can do everything yourself from plywood. The concrete mixer can be rented at first. Later, you can buy additional equipment to facilitate the work process.

Production of dry building mixtures

In this case, the assortment can be chosen by the entrepreneur himself. It should be understood that each type is intended for a specific type of work. The main consumers are repair and construction teams and companies. That is why it is better to think about cooperation with them in advance and offer your services for the delivery of goods. It is very difficult to talk about the demand for specific types of mixtures in Russia. In order not to get into a mess, it is better to carefully study the features of the dry building mixtures market in your region before starting work, and only then proceed to production.

Manufacturing of paints and varnishes

Necessary costs: from 30-35 thousand rubles.

This type of production has been profitable on the Russian market at all times. Finishing work is not complete without their use. You can include the following items in your assortment:

• putty;
• dye;
• glue;
• enamel and much more.

You can get significant income from such entrepreneurship. The main thing is only to initially study the market, find out about your competitors, the level of demand for each type of product, and only then set up production. The undoubted advantage of this business is a quick payback. For work, you will need knowledge of how to make this or that type of product.

Making indoor fountains

Necessary costs: from 20-25 thousand rubles.

This idea came to our country from China. Moreover, such production does not require large investments. Today, a variety of water-based décor items, including fountains and waterfalls, are in high demand. They have not only an aesthetic appearance, but also humidify the air, make the atmosphere in the room more calm and harmonious. For the manufacture of fountains, you can use the following types of materials:

• stone;
• glass;
• wood;
• clay;
• bamboo and more.

You can come up with a design yourself or browse ideas available on the Internet. Similar products can be sold in souvenir shops and shops. No specialized equipment is required for work, but skillful hands will come in handy.

Wooden stairs

Necessary costs: from 60 thousand rubles.

This business requires minimal investment. At the same time, he can bring good profit. Ladders do not belong to the category of cheap products, but the demand for them is quite high and stable. They buy them not only for the performance of functions, but also for aesthetics. That is why stairs made of natural materials are especially popular. They are decorated with carving, patting or gilding. It is better to be engaged in their production on order, having discussed in detail all aspects of the future project. One flight of stairs costs about 100 rubles, which once again confirms the high profitability of the project. For work, you will need carpentry equipment, wood, small tools.

Ceramics

Necessary costs: from 50 thousand rubles.

This refers primarily to clay dishes. In this case, you can work on the basis of various:

• raw materials;
• coverings;
• destination of goods.

They use ceramics in everyday life, they also decorate apartments and houses. Handicrafts are much more expensive than those made in large factories. Much depends on the originality of the idea, the appearance of the dishes. The more aesthetic it looks, the greater the demand for it will be. For work, you will need a special structure for working with clay (potter's wheel or machine tool), material. We'll have to think about how to paint it, what kind of ornament or drawing to add. From above, the dishes will need to be coated with a special varnish that is safe for humans.

DIY irrigation systems

Necessary costs: from 35-40 thousand rubles.

This idea is still quite innovative today. She came to Russia from China, but has already managed to conquer a certain part of the market. Drip irrigation systems can significantly save water consumption. It is necessary to sell products in agricultural land, where it will be in great demand. These can be exclusive custom-made systems or quite common options. A lot of knowledge is required to work. It is very important to understand how the system works, how irrigation is carried out and the flow of water. You don't need a lot of tools. The pipes must be sealed, gaskets must be inserted.

Sauna stoves

Necessary costs: from 90-100 thousand rubles.

For work, you will need skills, a welding machine and material for the manufacture of goods. A good welder is simply indispensable here. You can be engaged in custom-made production or form an assortment based on standard parameters. The main clients will be the owners of houses in villages and dachas. Some of these stoves are installed in garages and simple country houses. Selling in bulk will not work, it is better to work pointwise, because one oven has a rather impressive cost.

Wood carving

Necessary costs: from 30-35 thousand rubles.

Such products attract the attention of customers due to their exclusivity and nobility. There are very few wood craftsmen today. But the demand for wood products is constantly growing. You need to understand that you will not be able to master the technique right away, because it is quite difficult. It will take a lot of time and diligence to do really high-quality and beautiful things. It is also important to have knowledge and creativity. Any product is a reflection of the soul of the master, which is why they are so expensive. Crafts can be sold online or displayed in hand-made stores. Wooden souvenirs are especially popular among the population. For work, you will need high-quality material, a jigsaw and some other carpentry tools.

Anti-freeze production

Necessary costs: from 40 thousand rubles.

This product is especially needed by a motorist in the cold season. It is not difficult to make it. In doing so, you can make good money. In the future, a mini-factory may turn out from a small production workshop. The most important thing is to find distribution channels. These can be auto parts stores, motorists inside a cooperative. Stable demand will provide stable income. A variety of technical equipment will be required. At first, you can buy a used one, and only then scale up production and establish a whole production line. The same principle can be used to establish antifreeze production. The creation of both substances involves certain chemical reactions that require equipment and knowledge to carry out.

Manufacturing of monuments

Necessary costs: from 300 - 400 thousand rubles.

For a start, it is worth targeting this particular ritual service. Others can be added later. For work, you will need a workshop with an area of ​​70-200 m 2. There should be placed special tables for engraving, a grinder, a place for draining, a polishing machine, pouring. The following materials are used: cement, marble chips, fittings, etc. The undoubted advantage will be the presence of a telpher or a hydraulic trolley. It will not do without cutting wheels, puncher, hammers, carts, engraving tools, tile cutters and much more. It is necessary to find reliable suppliers and those who will carry out printing photographs on metal-ceramics. There is nowhere without technology, so you need to either hire knowledgeable people or delve into all the intricacies of production yourself.

Manufacturing of products

Growing vegetables and fruits

Necessary costs: from 10-15 thousand rubles.

It is better to organize this type of production outside the city if it is planned to work on a large scale. Here you can go in two ways: grow food in open beds or in greenhouses. In the first case, the costs will be minimal, and in the second - high yield. Many people today try to buy products from small producers. Such interest in such products is due to the fact that they are not harmful to health, since they do not contain pesticides, GMOs and other harmful substances. For work, you will need more of your own physical labor. You won't be able to make a profit right away, because the products have to grow before they can be sold.

Growing mushrooms

Necessary costs: from 20-25 thousand rubles.

To organize such a production, you will need to coordinate your work with the authorities. Rather stringent requirements are imposed on mushroom cultivation. As fertilizer, it will be necessary to use compost, which will have to be purchased from local farmers. The most popular mushrooms today are:

• Champignon;
• oyster mushrooms.

Moreover, champignons require very careful care. It is not so easy to grow them. But the income is also more tangible than growing vegetables and fruits. It will be possible to sell the certified product both to large supermarkets and to individuals. The latter can be charged a higher value than the former.

Cheese making

Necessary costs: from 500 thousand rubles.

I must say that this industry is very promising in terms of generating income and further development. For legal work, you will need to obtain various licenses and certificates for finished products. Beforehand, you should equip a mini-workshop for the production of cheese. You will not do without a veterinary certificate (you can get it from a milk seller). The following types of cheese are especially popular:

• solid;
• semi-solid;
• soft;
• brine.

At the same time, including one of the varieties in your project, you need to understand that each requires special equipment. Therefore, it is better to start with one type, and expand your production as you receive a good profit. There are quite a few requirements for cheese that must be met. You need to study them, look at GOST.

The work will require a fairly large area (about 350 m 2). There should be:

• manufacturing facility;
• fermentation workshop;
• salting workshop;
• refrigerating chambers.

You will need the following equipment: boilers, tanks, presses, starters, sterilizers, pumps, containers and much more. Such a business requires significant capital investments, regardless of the size of the enterprise.

How to sell manufactured goods

There are many ways here and they are all purely individual, depending on your knowledge, skills, financial capabilities, etc.

• You can sell your products on social networks and on your website on the Internet by making a website and running ads.
• You can post advertisements around the city and place advertisements in newspapers.
• You can sell through friends in the shops of the city.
• You can open a shop or tent in the market by yourself.
• You can sell in small wholesale, finding such orders through friends or on the Internet.

And many other options. Look at your situation individually and try to find your clients using different sources. And you will definitely find them.

Conclusion

That's all the small business home production ideas that came to our minds! The main thing is that you can find something for yourself. Only then can results be achieved in this business.

In conclusion, I would like to ask you to supplement the collection of these ideas in the comments under the article and ask your questions.