According to the architectural canons, the plinth is a part of the building lying on the foundation and is considered as a transitional wall between the foundation and the outer walls of the house. The complex of works on the external finishing of the entire building includes measures for finishing the basement, while the finishing materials for the basement of the house are somewhat different from the materials selected for finishing the walls of the house. This is due to the close location of the basement to the ground, where it is more exposed to moisture and cold air than the walls of a residential building themselves. Thanks to the development of modern technologies for finishing the external surfaces of residential buildings and the creation of new finishing materials, builders of private houses have received ample opportunities for arranging original and practical plinths within affordable prices.

After finishing the basement, it even visually differs from the building Source domzzz.ru

Purpose and function of the base

Builders and architects have different interpretations of the purpose of the basement. Builders consider the basement as part of the foundation, while architects consider it to be the lower part of the wall.

It is interesting! From the point of view of antique Italian architects, the plinth is an independent structural element - the foot of a building, column or monument, lying on the foundation (the Italian word "zoccolo" literally translates as a shoe with a wooden sole).

In accordance with building codes, the walls of the foundation must be raised above the ground to a height of 15 to 250 cm. This visible part of the foundation, called the foundation wall, is called the plinth. The basement is an intermediate structure that combines the load-bearing walls of the building with the foundation. In fig. below is a concrete foundation with a brick base.

Erection of a brick plinth on the foundation Source vi.decorexpro.com

The main functions of the basement wall of the building are:

perception of the load from the upper part of the residential building (load-bearing function);

ensuring the stability of the building, creating a solid pedestal, the perception of linear deformations during house settlement (support function);

protection of walls from the effects of atmospheric sedimentary moisture (waterproofing function);

providing thermal protection for basements (thermal insulation function);

fencing the space between the piles and the grillage in the case of a pile foundation (enclosing function);

creation of the corresponding architectural appearance of the erected building (architectural and decorative function).

Video description

More about the advantages of the basement in the video:

Differences between basement and basement

Do not confuse the basement floor, also called the zero floor, with the basement and imagine it as a kind of dark damp room.

It is important! The basement floor is located inside the perimeter of the foundation walls and can be installed in buildings with any type of base. The basement can only be equipped inside the strip foundation. In some versions of foundations (such as pile foundations), the basement is simply absent. In the case of a pile foundation, the pile heads are raised above the ground to a height of at least 20 cm, and a grillage is laid on them, which serves as a support for the walls of the house.

In fig. below is a house on a pile foundation, with piles protruding at a considerable distance from the ground. To close the resulting free gap, a false base is formed by laying walls of facing bricks or sheathing piles with decorative panels such as siding. Finishing of the foundation will be inexpensively provided using the materials used for the external cladding of the facade, taking into account the peculiarities of the location of the false plinth.

For such a house you need a false plinth Source tema.ru

Using the example of false plinths, the main differences between the basement and the basement become clear:

The walls of the basement of the house are always load-bearing; the load from the upper floors of the building is partially distributed on them. The walls of the basement are not always load-bearing, but can only perform enclosing and architectural and decorative functions without the perception of weight loads from the side of the building.

The ground floor can be buried to a shallow depth or even be above ground. Basement - a room buried in the ground. The basement can be classified as a basement, while the basement is not always buried in the ground and cannot be considered a basement in such cases.

Ground floor options are preferable in regions with deep soil freezing and when building in areas with closely located groundwater. The arrangement of basements in such cases is very difficult and is associated with significant financial costs.

Despite such a significant difference in purpose and design, the ground floor and the basement allow for identical practical applications in relation to each other - on their areas you can equip a workshop, a garage, plan a living room and even build a full-fledged sauna.

Types of basement structures

Practical options for finishing the basement of the house take into account its location relative to the plane of the outer wall (see figure below):

Types of location of the basement relative to the wall Source domsireni.ru

a - protruding type;

b - in one plane (flush);

c - sinking.

The following positions are indicated in the figure:

pos. 1 - outer wall;

pos. 2 - waterproofing;

pos. 3 - foundation.

The protruding type of foot (pos. A) gives the building the appearance of a powerful structure with increased stability. From an architectural and aesthetic point of view, the protruding type is more advantageous than the foundation walls made flush or of the sinking type.

Appearance of the protruding base Source remont.kz

However, they necessarily require the construction of a protective cornice with drain functions to prevent water from flowing from the walls to the basement. The construction of a protruding foundation wall is advisable for houses with thin walls or when building a warm underground for its thermal protection, in order to compensate for the small thickness of the outer wall with its width.

A sinking type plinth (pos. C), when the outer wall (pos. 1) hangs over the foundation (pos. 3), is considered more effective and reliable in terms of protecting the waterproofing layer (pos. 2) from mechanical stress and atmospheric moisture. It is more economical in terms of material consumption, since the thickness is less and there is no need to construct a drainage cornice. But about its aesthetic qualities, the opinions of architects diverge diametrically. Some are convinced of the aesthetic loss due to the impression that the house has a reduced stability compared to the actual one. Other designers consider the outlines of the sinking plinth to be more compact and modern.

It looks like a wall with a sinking plinth Source domsireni.ru

Sometimes the plinth is built flush with the plane of the wall. It is believed that in such cases, the waterproofing line is violated, and the very location of the waterproofing layer looks random.

When the basement is built flush, it differs only in color Source 2gis.ru

Purpose of basement finishing, requirements for finishing materials

The basement is subject to a larger volume of loads than the underground part of the building base. Along with the weight load from the entire structure, it has to resist the pushing forces from the soil when the soil heaves, that is, the mechanical loads on the basement turn out to be multidirectional.

It is clear that for finishing the surface of the basement wall, it is necessary to use materials with improved quality indicators in comparison with traditional cladding. In addition to mechanical loads, they must withstand well the effects of the environment:

temperature drops;

negative impact of sedimentary moisture - rain, snow, melt water, condensing fog;

exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation;

wind loads.

As a result, the decoration of the basement of the house is carried out for the following purposes:

minimizing the negative impact on the foundation and the lower layers of the outer walls of the weather conditions of the environment;

preventing the penetration of dirt and chemical compounds into the materials of the walls of a residential building, provoking the processes of destruction of the foundation foundation;

protection of the foundation from possible formation of mold, fungus, insects.

Video description

The video shows an example of how to veneer the basement of a house inexpensively and beautifully on a pile foundation:

Base / plinth rough protection

In order for the basement to fully perform its functions for a long time, it itself must be protected from wind loads, temperature changes, atmospheric and all-penetrating ground moisture. Before proceeding with the finishing of the basement wall, it is necessary to carry out a set of measures for the so-called rough protection of the basement. There are five main aspects of the rough protection of the basement from possible destruction and the prevention of distortion of the geometry of the building itself.

On our website you can find contacts of companies specializing in finishing materials for finishing country houses. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

Laying of drainage communications along the perimeter of the basement wall

To create a basement drainage system, a trench is dug into which drainage pipes with perforations are laid over the entire surface. Through them, moisture that has got inside will be discharged to the drainage well. The trench with specially laid drainage pipes is sprinkled with sand and gravel, then filled with earth.

Video description

In the video, an example of drainage for the basement floor:

Waterproofing the outside of the basement wall

The basement is waterproofed after the initial waterproofing of the foundation base and armored belt. Sequence of work:

the foundation superstructure is coated with hot bitumen or bitumen mastic;

several layers of roofing material are applied on top;

covered with a penetrating waterproofing compound.

Manufacturing of blind areas

Blind areas are called an inclined strip filled with concrete along the perimeter of the building, suitable close to the basement wall. A slight slope "from the wall" prevents water from accumulating near the foundation superstructure during rain or snow melting. The width of the blind area should be at least 25 cm larger than the roof overhang. Sequence of work:

remove the upper part of the soil;

lay a drainage cushion of sand and gravel;

a layer of concrete is poured over the pillow, ensuring a slope from the wall.

Blind area for the foundation Source subscribe.ru

Plastering the plinth surface

It is carried out with the aim of leveling and strengthening the surface. This reduces the likelihood of cracking, provoking subsequent possible destruction. Usually, in preparation for plastering, a metal mesh is pre-filled and then plaster is applied. To make the solution water-repellent, a plasticizer is added to it.

Ebb installation

These structural elements act as a protective canopy for the foundation wall. Ebbs can be ceramic, steel or aluminum, plastic or brick.

Upon completion of the complex of protective measures, the main finishing of the basement is started.

Plinth finishing methods

Among the methods of finishing the basement wall, practiced in private housing construction, the following technologies are the most popular:

applying decorative plaster, creating relief compositions imitating granite, marble or natural stones;

the use of decorative siding panels;

finishing with professional sheet and corrugated board;

resin tiles;

facing with natural or artificial stones, facing bricks, clinker tiles;

sheathing with thermal panels;

finishing with slate and cement-bonded particle boards.

Photo of finishing the basement of the house - imitation of stone when finishing the basement Source domsireni.ru

Decorating with decorative plaster

Finishing the basement or facing the foundation cheaply without loss of performance and aesthetic qualities can be done by decorative plastering. The main advantages of this technique are:

sufficiently high vapor permeability;

resistance to temperature extremes;

ease of application to the surface to be plastered;

wide variety of color palette;

good maintainability for repair and restoration work;

affordable price.

Additional Information... Experts believe that when comparing the entire set of indicators in terms of cost, quality, durability, maintainability and practicality of the coating, plastering the basement is the most advantageous option.

Of the shortcomings, users note:

small service life;

the need for constant updating of the paintwork;

difficulties in washing the surface from dirt.

Modern trends in the artistic and decorative design of the facades of residential buildings did not ignore the plastering of the plinths.

Decorative plaster can give any shape to the surface Source dom-steny.ru

In private houses, the most popular types of plaster are now used, creating exclusive compositions:

textured compositions used to create paintings, drawings, color mosaics;

glazing compounds that help in creating interesting effects;

embossed decoration "like a stone".

Siding decoration

When finishing the basement of a private house in Moscow with its climate and colder regions, siding panels are often used - the term "basement siding" has even entered into construction practice. At its core, siding is a universal way of finishing any surface of the house, however, the panels for plating the basement are somewhat different from the classic wall counterparts.

If the wall siding is represented by panels with a thickness of 0.7-1.2 mm and a length of almost 4 meters, then for the basement, reinforced panels with a thickness of 2.5 to 3.0 mm are produced (almost 3 times thicker than the wall cladding!) And a length of 1 , 0-1.13 m with a width of up to 47 cm. This provides increased resistance to mechanical damage, including accidental impacts, and rigidity in relation to temperature deformations.

Standard brick-like siding panel Source sargorstroy.ru

In the Russian market of cladding materials, basement siding is represented by plastic and metal panels imitating natural stones, wood, brick in texture. Plastic base / plinth panels are made of PVC and polypropylene resins, modified with special components to improve strength, fire and moisture resistance. Metal - made of steel and aluminum.

The main advantages of basement siding include:

increased strength and rigidity of each panel individually and of the assembled structure as a whole;

resistance to the negative effects of biological factors - fungus, mold, insects;

excellent moisture resistance;

increased mechanical strength in relation to impacts and chipping;

wear resistance to abrasion of dust and debris particles;

small deformations during temperature changes, building settlement or soil swelling;

wide temperature range of application - panels do not lose their properties both in severe frost (up to minus 50 degrees Celsius) and in heat exceeding + 50 degrees. Ts);

resistance to solar ultraviolet - the material does not age quickly, and the color does not fade;

excellent maintainability - if necessary, the panels are easily replaced;

ease of care - panels can be easily cleaned from dirt.

A significant disadvantage of basement siding is the need to arrange a special frame, which significantly increases the cost of finishing material and the complexity of finishing work.

Siding panels cannot be installed without crate Source podvaldoma.ru

Installation of basement siding panels also has its pros and cons. The pluses of the panel installation process include the following aspects:

panels are installed on any type of base;

no preliminary leveling of the wall surface is required;

high culture and cleanliness of installation and installation work;

fastening panels with frame battens by means of self-tapping screws and with each other - with spikes and clamps provides a rigid fixation of the siding to the plinth.

Installation problems for plinth panels include:

the need for the correct positioning of the frame under the panels;

painstaking installation, the likelihood of marriage when connecting the panels, which can subsequently affect the appearance of the basement and its performance;

the need to use a special tool for cutting and fitting panels.

Finishing with professional sheet and corrugated board

The lining of the basement with profiled steel sheet is to some extent analogous to the siding technology, only the basement panels are replaced with profiled sheet or corrugated board with a corresponding refinement of the frame. In addition to the protective function, decoration can also be performed for decorative purposes.

Video description

In the video, an example of finishing the basement of an old house:

In the profiled sheet, the wave profile is made more rigid than that of the corrugated board. According to their intended purpose, profiled sheets are used as roofing material, however, C13 corrugated board, which has a wave height of 13 mm, is allowed for cladding the plinths of private residential buildings. The thickness of the corrugated board is 0.6-0.7 mm, which is quite enough to create a solid sheathing of the foundation superstructure. The corrugated board is supplied with a galvanized or polymer coating.

The advantages of a profiled sheet include:

high strength properties;

external attractiveness, the possibility of implementing various types of design compositions;

resistance to corrosion and discoloration from environmental influences;

ease of installation, minimum labor intensity for installation on a plinth;

affordability.

It is important! Facing the basement with corrugated board refers to the budget options for finishing the foundation and basement walls and clearly surpasses other technologies in terms of price / quality.

Of the shortcomings, two factors can be noted:

the monotony of the grooved pattern, which is perceived by some users as an indicator of an unpresentable interior;

the need to take into account the geometry of the overall design of the building, since the wave bends of the sheets may not correspond at all to the artistic style of the building ("do not fit" into the design).

The issue of combining wall and basement drawings is one of the main issues when finishing the basement of a private house with a profiled sheet Source sevparitet.ru

Resin tiles

The base / plinth tiles produced with resin bonding components are only 3-5 mm thick. The tiles are easily bent at any angle, they can even be rolled into a roll, so this facing material is commonly called flexible stone. The length of the tiles varies in the range from 24 to 36 cm with a width of 5 to 7 cm. Resin-based tiles are produced with a smooth and embossed surface that imitates in color and texture the entire range of natural facing materials - stone, wood, facing bricks.

Facing from "flexible stone" Source moypodval.ru

Thanks to their high flexibility, tiles on resinous substrates can be easily installed on any base / plinth configuration, including arched geometry. The features of installing such tiles are as follows:

when laying, the tiles are glued with a special glue to the pre-leveled and primed surface of the basement wall;

it is allowed to lay tiles directly on concrete surfaces and on the top layer of thermal insulation;

tiles are easily cut with a knife and large scissors;

the time for the glue to dry completely is 2-3 days.

Finishing with stone, brick, clinker tiles

Finishing the basement "like a stone" or "like a brick" gives the residential building solidity and monumentality. It is not at all necessary for home owners to spend money on granite, marble, rubble stone or brick. The decorative functions of finishing from natural stone materials are successfully performed by various kinds of facing tiles with a texture that imitates natural stones or bricks.

Natural stone tiles

It is a full-fledged decorative alternative to classic stone foundations. On the back side, the tiles are smooth, and on the front side, the stone is not processed, retaining its natural originality.

Facing with natural stone is an excellent option for finishing the foundation of a wooden house Source moypodval.ru

Facing tiles "like a stone", imitating natural stones, are made on a cement-sand base with the addition of paint, plasticizers and protective compounds. Artificial stones have high strength characteristics, do not absorb water, and are easy to clean with a water jet. Artificial stone is more ductile than natural, therefore it withstands accidental impacts and sudden temperature changes better.

Facing "under the stone" Source piatachok.ru

Clinker

Clinker tiles are a variant of facing bricks made by firing special refractory clay. The sintered clay is very hard and its glossy surface is highly hydrophobic. After laying, the clinker tile creates an imitation of brickwork.

It is important! Clinker tiles are distinguished by high chemical inertness to negative environmental influences and surpass natural and artificial stones in terms of their durability.

Facing the basement with clinker - as an option how to finish the foundation of the house from the outside Source tr.decorexpro.com

Facing brick is a natural ceramic product that fully imitates brickwork. It has high thermal insulation and strength qualities, which are so necessary to protect the basement and the entire facade.

Base, finished with facing bricks Source domsireni.ru

Plinth thermal panels

Basement thermal panels are facing tiles equipped with insulation on the inside. Facing decorative material of thermal panels is clinker tiles imitating natural stones, bricks, shell rock, porcelain tiles or ordinary ceramic tiles with imitation "like a brick". Polyurethane foam or extruded polystyrene foam is used as a heater. The thickness of the insulation layer is 20-80 mm.

Note! Practice has shown that the use of thermal panels with expanded polystyrene for cladding a basement wall is unacceptable. This type of insulation is short-lived and has weak heat-shielding properties.

Thermal panels are exterior decoration and insulation Source blogremonta.com

Finishing with slate and cement particle board

Finishing the basement with flat slate is a good budget option for the exterior of the house. For the manufacture of flat slate, asbestos fiber, Portland cement and water are used. The lining of the basement wall is recommended to be made of pressed slate, which is much denser and stronger than the unpressed analogue. The main advantages of slate materials include:

resistance to aggression of sedimentary moisture;

low coefficient of water absorption;

resistance to low temperatures and sudden temperature changes;

open flame resistance, slate sheets do not burn;

slate can be painted using acrylic primer and acrylic or silicone paint;

long service life within 25-30 years.

Of the shortcomings, the following factors are necessarily mentioned:

increased fragility - slate can collapse from dynamic influences, for example, from being hit by a stone;

asbestos dust generated when cutting sheets during installation is extremely harmful to humans. Processing of sheets is carried out only in respirators.

Budget options for finishing the basement Source domsireni.ru

Cement particle boards (DSP) are made by pressing wood chips with cement. CBPB is based on coarse shavings, the top layer is formed from shavings of a finer fraction. On the building materials market, CBPB is offered with a sheet thickness of 8-36 mm. For finishing the basement wall, sheets with a thickness of 16 to 20 mm are used.

The advantages of DSP are as follows:

good moisture resistance;

resistance to low ambient temperatures;

high degree of fire safety of CBPB cladding;

resistance to decay;

ease of machining.

Two factors are distinguished from the disadvantages:

large weight of each cladding element;

the service life does not exceed 15 years.

Finishing the basement in a wooden house

When finishing the foundation of a wooden house and lining the basement, special attention is paid to the careful implementation of waterproofing and thermal insulation of the entire basement belt around the building. The wood from which the walls of the dwelling are erected is susceptible to the processes of decay and mold growth, and is vulnerable to excess sedimentary and ground moisture. Only reliable protection of the basement will prevent the penetration of liquid into the wall part and will not allow it to freeze in the cold season. After taking measures for waterproofing and thermal protection of the basement, it can be finished using the technologies described above.

Finishing the basement of a wooden house Source remlandia.ru

Conclusion

The resource of long-term trouble-free operation of a residential building depends on the strength and reliability of the basement belt around the building. When the basement is destroyed, a destructive reaction of the building begins, leading to a deterioration in the appearance of the building and a decrease in its strength qualities, up to local destruction of walls and foundations. Any method of finishing the basement to a certain extent protects and ennobles the facade of the building. Developers are only required to achieve the optimal match of price, quality and decorative properties of the finishing material so that the basement cladding does not get out of the general picture of the building's appearance.

The plinth is the lower part of the facade foundation. It is designed to protect walls from dirt and mechanical damage, as well as raise the house to an optimal height, for example, to protect it from flooding.

In the question of how to finish the base, it is important to choose durable materials that will not only add an aesthetic appearance to the belt, but also make it more functional and easy to maintain.

Advantages and disadvantages of finishing the basement

According to building codes, the height of the decorative basement of the house should not be lower than 50-70 cm, but there are times when it is raised to a height of 150 cm from the soil surface. This is justified in the case of basements and garages under the building. Do-it-yourself decorative finishing of the basement solves the following tasks:

• protection of the foundation and its above-ground part from the effects of moisture that gets on its surface from the atmosphere. The barrier allows you to maintain optimal humidity parameters in the basement and throughout the house;
• protection of houses from temperature extremes, which makes it possible to smooth out the indoor microclimate in winter and summer;
• decorating the facade, making the building look more holistic and respectable.

Despite the obvious advantages, the use of finishing can lead to condensation on the surface of the basement walls. How does this happen? Water vapors that form in the interior of the room escape to the outside, falling on the waterproof barrier, which serves as the decoration. The low hydrophobicity of the finishing material can also lead to it peeling off in winter.

To avoid this, it is necessary to follow the compatibility rules of the base / plinth structure and finish. For example, paint works well with bricks, but is unnatural for concrete surfaces. This must be taken into account when choosing finishing materials.

Plastic paneling

The main advantage that plastic panels demonstrate is the absence of wet works. The panels are attached to the surface of the facade of a private house using a wooden or metal frame. After its mounting, a starting profile is installed at the bottom of the structure. Then the rest of the material is installed using the tenon and groove method.

The processing of the plinth with plastic panels on the outside depends on its shape. If it is built in the form of a ledge, then it is necessary to apply a special ebb; if it is built flush with the wall, then a transition strip is required, which will connect the panels and the finishing material of the upper part of the facade of the house.

When finishing the protruding part of the foundation with panels, you must adhere to the following rules:

• screw the self-tapping screws into the surface of the foundation horizontally in order to avoid tilting as much as possible;
• self-tapping screws must not be screwed in all the way. It is necessary to leave a thermal gap of 2 mm;
• it is better to cut the panels with a cutter, saw or jigsaw;
• if the first panel that is mounted on the frame is to be cut, then there is no need to install a starting profile;
• the starter bar and curb are attached in 300 mm increments;
• to install one panel, you must use at least five self-tapping screws.

Decorating with decorative plaster

This material consists of small grains with a diameter of 0.8 to 3.0 mm, which, after being applied to the surface of the foundation of a private house, give the impression of a multi-colored mosaic. Its main component is resin, which protects the base from moisture penetration into it from the outside, but releases steam from the inside of it.

Before finishing the wall with decorative plaster, you can prepare the surface with cement or gypsum plaster. This is not necessary, as it interacts normally with concrete. The preparation solution is used to level the surface and to improve adhesion. When using the material, it is necessary to avoid contact with lime or heat-saving plaster.

Decorative plaster is applied to the surface of the foundation of a private house by hand.

The only tool used is a stainless steel grater. The mass is thrown onto the wall in a layer with a thickness equal to the size of the grains included in its composition. Before it dries up, the mass must be evenly smoothed with a grater.

Movements with a float should be made in one direction. To avoid the appearance of transitions between plaster strokes, it is better to carry out the work in a wet-on-wet manner. After the end of the work, the base must be protected with a water repellent for several days from the harmful effects of the sun and rain.

Types of tiles and panels for finishing the basement

The tile is used to imitate natural surfaces - stone, brick, etc. Its advantage is a thinner surface and quick installation. For finishing the foundation, the following tiles are produced:

• clinker;
• stone tiles;
• polymer sand tiles;

Clinker tiles imitate the surface of a brick. It exactly repeats its dimensions, except for the thickness. In the installation of the material, it is important to lay out the first row correctly.

To do this, you need to calculate the level of calculation. The calculation is done as follows: divide the height of the base by the width of the tile, increased by the width of the joint. If you get an empty gap, after all the tiles have been laid out, it can be repaired with acrylic or polyurethane compound.

Stone tiles are mounted on the foundation of a wooden house in the same way as clinker tiles. It is alternately laid out on the surface of the foundation, fastening the material with an adhesive solution.

It is important to use special glue for working with stone, otherwise the structure may become covered with cracks. If small-format tiles are mounted, then it is customary to leave seams of 5 mm between its elements, and 10 mm between large ones. At the final stage, they are sealed with frost-resistant material for jointing.

Polymer sand tiles imitate torn stone or brickwork. Its advantage is its low weight, so the material can be used to decorate a wooden house. This tile is mounted with screws to the crate. It is advisable to make insulation between it and the layer of material.

Base / plinth finishing with DSP panels

The name of DSP material stands for cement-bonded particleboards. Their main advantage is low cost and fire resistance.

The properties of DSP panels make it a suitable option for finishing a suburban, wooden house. It is resistant to damage by termites and rodents, which is also important for private homes. The material consists of cement, wood shavings and mineralizing additives. They make the panels resistant to the spread of mold and mildew.

DSP is not only a finishing material, but also additional insulation of the base wooden structure. Insulation for the basement is important if a basement is located in it.

By choosing insulation with the help of DSP, the developer receives better thermal insulation than mineral wool or foam. At the same time, the structure of the DSP does not require additional decoration.

DSP is mounted on brackets or bars. This method allows you to expand insulation under the slab. It is attached with mushroom dowels. Then a wind barrier is installed, which is also held together by fungi. Next, the crate is mounted. It is necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm between the frame and the wind barrier. At the end, the DSP is attached to the insulation with self-tapping screws.

DIY plinth decoration (video)

Plinth plating with corrugated board

Sheathing with corrugated board is advisable for arranging the basement of a wooden building, since this material allows you to extend the life of wood vulnerable to external factors. For these purposes, galvanized sheets of the bearing type are used. Sheathing with corrugated board is done as follows:

• install the frame at a short distance from the base / plinth surface. The air cushion will provide additional insulation and sound insulation;
• cover it with corrugated board along or across (the vertical installation method will protect the facade from rain or snow);
• for fastening the sheets, screws are used, screwed in each 25-30 cm;
• check the fasteners for strength;
• paint over the joints with enamel.

If the structure is used for cladding a brick foundation, then insulation is carried out using drywall, wood, special film.

Do-it-yourself home decoration technology differs depending on the material chosen. In this article, we will talk about the types of foundations and their features. We will also consider in detail the most popular types of materials for finishing the basement of a private house, in particular: decorative plaster, under natural and artificial stone, PVC panels and, mosaic plaster and different types of tiles.

Therefore, when choosing materials for finishing the facade of a house, it is important to consider these nuances:

• DIY home decoration materials:
• plastering solution;
• tile;
• panels;
• artificial and natural stone;
• brick.

The presented materials have their own merits, and also differ in the methods of their application and installation.

In no case should the foundation be left without finishing, since concrete is prone to absorbing moisture, which has a destructive force when the air temperature changes.

Before you start finishing the basement of a private house, you should thoroughly clean it from dirt, level the wall, repair chips and cracks. Next, the surface is coated with a primer for better adhesion of the finishing materials to the base.

Types of foundations:

Bulging. To finish the foundation of a house with your own hands, you first need to take care of the drain. If installed incorrectly, water will begin to collect at the division between the base and the wall. In order to prevent such a situation, the drainage should be planned taking into account the plinth lining.

The appearance of the foundation, finished with such tiles, is similar to the walls of clinker bricks. The advantage of the tiles is that they are lighter and less thick (8 - 20 cm).

The length and width are similar to those of bricks. You can purchase additional corners to simplify work and a beautiful appearance of the base.

Step-by-step instructionbase / plinth finishes:

very attractive to look at, but also expensive. The most demanded materials for such a finish are sandstone or limestone. Marble or granite are among the most expensive natural materials. Sandstone and limestone are pre-torn with a waterproofing compound. The laying pattern is the same as for tiling. Stone glue is used to fix the elements. Seams are left between small stones, large ones - 2 mm. With a foundation protruding forward, it is necessary to install a cornice to drain water.

Artificial stone is very similar to natural stone. Thanks to special additives and aggregates, manufacturers receive a stone with excellent performance properties.

The technique of finishing the foundation with artificial stone resembles the laying of tiles:

Polymer sand tiles are an innovative material that imitates "torn" stone and brick. It is very light in weight, which makes it possible to lay it on weak-bearing structures. Manufacturers have minimized the risk of cracks and chips on the material, increased frost and moisture resistance. Therefore, there is no need for treatment with waterproofing agents.

Plinth trim with resin tiles

The appearance of this material resembles clinker brick or sandstone. Its thickness is small, only 3 mm. Resin tiles are flexible and can be used on rounded plinths. It can also be bent at plinth corners. The material is cut with scissors, easily attached to plaster, concrete and insulation. Has a smooth and rough surface and a wide range of colors.

Laying procedure:

It has a granular structure. The grain size is about 3 mm. After the solution is applied to the wall, a pattern resembles a colored mosaic. Resin acts as a fixing agent.

Thanks to its qualities, the finish acquires moisture resistance. Mosaic plaster is resistant to low temperatures and external damage.

It should not be applied to lime plaster and plastics. Best of all, it adheres to concrete and mineral substrates (cement, gypsum).

Application procedure:

Finishing the foundation of the house with plastic panels

Often used for finishing small country houses and cottages. The combination of panels with siding looks very attractive.

Plastic panels are lightweight and easy to work with:

Decorating the foundation of the house with your own hands is a feasible task for anyone. The choice of materials in our time is so wide that any idea can be translated into reality. The main thing is to adhere to the instructions for working with a specific type of material.

Whatever house is being built, its whole structure is always based on on the reliable foundation of one type or another. The value of this structural element simply cannot be overestimated - it is he who takes over and distributes all the main weight loads. As a rule, the foundation always protrudes somewhat above the surface of the earth, forming the so-called basement part. And now the owner of the house inevitably faces the question - how to decorate the basement?

There are many options for solving this problem. But first of all, it's worth figuring out - is it really necessary to finish the basement?

Why is the basement lined?

Many home owners consider basement finishing only as a special design touch in the overall exterior design of the house. The desire to make your home as beautiful as possible outwardly is understandable and justified, but it turns out that decorativeness in this case, although important, is still secondary. The main purpose of the plinth cladding is still different:

• Even such a seemingly indestructible element of a building, like a foundation, needs protection from external influences. The cladding minimizes the effect of atmospheric precipitation, high humidity, temperature extremes, and direct sunlight on the basement material.
• The walls of the house at the level of the basement are most susceptible to contamination. The liquid mud that gets on them always contains a lot of chemically aggressive substances that can cause erosion processes even in monolithic concrete.
• The base should also be protected from the development of forms of biological life on its surface - mold spots, fungal colonies, insect nests.
• If possible, it is necessary to provide for buildings. At first glance - a paradox, why insulate it if all living quarters are located higher. However, this opinion is erroneous:

- By itself, the basement array becomes a very capacious cold accumulator, it does not even form a "bridge", but a whole "highway" of penetration of low temperatures into the premises, from which even a conscientiously insulated floor of the first floor cannot save. A significant part of the energy spent on heating will simply be wasted.

- The material from which the foundation is made, be it concrete, brick or stone, under the influence of low winter temperatures can freeze through, which activates erosion processes and reduces its strength.

So, the conclusion is categorical - the base needs a high-quality finish for both operational and decorative reasons. What kind of finish should you choose? This will depend on the features of the building design, and on the preferences of the home owner, and on his financial capabilities.

Types of materials used for finishing the basement

Plastering and painting

One of the easiest finishing methods is to apply a layer of durable plaster to the surface of the plinth.

One of the simplest options is plastering the base

This finish will create a good sewn layer with high vapor permeability. The main advantage of this method is its cheapness and availability of materials. Doing this work yourself or finding a master plasterer is usually not a big problem. And the options giving there is a lot of decorativeness to such a base.

• Firstly, it can be simply painted with special durable facade paints. A wide range of shades is on sale, and there is always an opportunity to choose the most suitable one for the planned exterior design of the building.
• Secondly, applying a finishing coat would be an excellent solution. A wide range of colors and rich textures should satisfy any homeowner's needs.

• But that's not all. If you show imagination, then even a simple plastered surface can be given a very original look yourself.

A rock? No, this is a plastered plinth ...

In the photo, the plinth is seemingly finished with stone. In fact, each "cobblestone" is nothing more than a slide of ordinary concrete mortar, molded by hand right on the surface of the base.

... "cobblestones" of which are sculpted by hand ...

For sculpting such "stones", special skills are not required - the main thing is to make a high-quality dense solution. Everything else is the imagination and efforts of a home master. After hardening, it remains to decorate with dyes - and the plastered base will become indistinguishable from the stone one.

... and tinted with paint

The disadvantages of plastering plastering technology include the comparative fragility of the coating - you will have to constantly monitor the condition of the applied layer and timely repair or update damaged, cracked areas.

Base / plinth finishing with DSP panels with real chips of stone and granite

Of course, stone is the best option for plating a plinth. But the question of price stops many. Especially for those who want to get a reliable and "expensive" base for many years, Eskosell panels from the Komak Plat brand have been developed.

DSP panels

You get natural stone for the price of plastic. How does this happen? The basis of the panels is a rigid cement-bonded particle board, on which chips of stone and granite are applied. The large crumb size (5-6mm) qualitatively distinguishes the panel from plaster and analogs. Eskosell can provide your home with high-quality protection against mechanical damage and vandalism, they can easily withstand changes in temperature and humidity. A layer of epoxy adhesive compound and natural stone chips is not only a home decor, but also a protective waterproof layer. It should also be taken into account that Eskosell are made from natural ingredients and do not emit various harmful substances even in case of fire.

Panel types

Prices for cement-bonded particle boards (DSP)

Cement particle board (DSP)

Advantages of Eskosell Stone Chip Surrounding Panels:

• ECOLOGY: in the composition of substances other than formaldehyde, asbestos, phenol, etc.
• FIRE RESISTANT (G1): in case of fire, they do not melt and does not emit harmful components into the air;
• FROST RESISTANT: installation can be carried out at any time of the year, will not crack either from frost or temperature changes;
• WATER RESISTANT: the front surface of the slab is moisture resistant;
• BIOSTABLE: Eskosell prevent the appearance of mold and mildew;
• RELIABILITY: will serve you and your home for over 50 years;
• VANDAL RESISTANT: tough, hard, vandal-proof material;
• EASY INSTALLATION: can be mounted without additional elements, using self-tapping screws or glue.

Eskosell crumb panels

It is possible to sheathe the plinth with panels simply with the help of screws. Or glue on foam glue. Unlike other panels, Eskosell does not require additional mounting elements.

Plinth finish with natural stone

This type of finish can certainly be called "elite". A building with such a plinth always looks very advantageous, and has excellent performance characteristics and will last for a very long time.

Plinth with natural stone cladding - looks very rich

For cladding, specially prepared stone slabs are used - slabs, usually 20 ÷ 30 mm thick, which can have either a regular geometric shape or uneven edges, which gives a special decorative effect.

The surface of the stone can also be selected to your taste - from polished to mirror shine to rough chips.

For all the beauty and practicality of this type of basement finish, it also has many disadvantages:

• Such cladding has a very significant weight, therefore it gives an additional load on the foundation of the building, especially in cases where the basement has a large surface area. If finishing with natural stone is planned, then this is usually calculated even at the stage of building design.
• Large mass of stone slabs also predetermines the increased complexity of their installation. So, very often even the most high-quality adhesive solution is not enough, so there is a need for additional reinforcement and the use of special stops.
• Another significant drawback is, of course, the price of the material and the cost of installation work, which are far from always available for independent execution.

Even the most inexpensive types of natural stone - shell rock or limestone, cost more than 1200 - 1500 rubles per square meter. The more expensive type includes granite and marble, with a polished or chipped surface.

Well, if there is a desire to achieve complete exclusivity, then wealthy homeowners sometimes resort to cladding with materials such as gabbro or even labradorite, the price of which is generally "sky-high".

Video: sandstone plinth facing

Facing with artificial stone

In the case when you really want to use the stone facing of the basement, but the material capabilities or design features of the building make this impossible, you can resort to another option - to purchase an artificial stone.

The cost of an artificial analogue is much less, the mass of the material is not so significant, and the illusion of naturalness is almost complete.

A similar material is made on the basis of cement-containing mixtures, often with the addition of light fractions (for example, expanded clay crushed stone), special polymer plasticizers and micro-reinforcing components. Tiles are produced using vibrocasting technology in special silicone molds, exactly repeating the natural texture of the stone, or by hyper pressing.

Laying hyper-pressed tiles "like a stone"

The release form may be different. Thus, piece tiles with standardized correct dimensions are widely used. No less popular are sets that are assembled according to a unit of area, individual tiles of which can have different linear dimensions. A similar finish of the basement is carried out in the usual way - by laying on building tile adhesive for external work.

Artificial stone panels of the "Canyon" type

To facilitate the installation of the plinth cladding, you can purchase ready-made panels made of artificial stone, for example, of the "Canyon" type. At the production stage, metal mounting brackets are embedded in their concrete structure, which have a verified geometric arrangement. These parts make it possible to mount the finished panels on the base / plinth surface not on the mortar, but on the fasteners - an indisputable advantage, especially when cladding along the subsystem guides.

Find out how to carry out with detailed instructions from our new article.

If desired, such panels can also be installed on an adhesive solution - the brackets bent inward will only increase the reliability of adhesion to the surface.

Another option - tiles made of artificial stone are attached with reliable polyurethane glue to a rigid base, with or without insulation - this can be a board made of OSB, fiber cement or glass magnesite... Such a substrate and extremely simplifies the installation of the cladding, and gives it additional thermal insulation qualities.

The well-thought-out hinge part of the panels completely hides the joints between them, creating the effect of natural masonry. The texture of the outer surface can be chosen according to your taste - rocks, crushed stone, tuff, slate, etc. Mosaic solutions are also popular, with the inclusion of artificial mini slabs other texture or color.

Prices for the range of basement panels

Plinth panels

Finishing the basement with brick or "brick-like"

Austerity always gives the building a special respectability and is in perfect harmony with any possible type of finishing of the rest of the facade area. To achieve this effect, you can use one of the existing options:

• Facing the basement with natural bricks. This approach has the advantage that you can create a ventilated gap between the plinth itself and the cladding, or fill this space with insulation material. In addition, the brick itself will also serve as additional thermal insulation, especially if its hollow varieties are used. However, it must be remembered that brickwork itself will need a strip foundation - this issue should be considered when planning construction. Although they act differently - they create their own support for masonry, which will subsequently be combined with a concrete blind area around the foundation.

For cladding the basement, various types of bricks are used.

- The heaviest - hyper-pressed, characterized by very high strength and extremely low water absorption - what is especially necessary for the base. You can buy bricks of various sizes - from the "Russian" standard 250 × 120 × 60 mm to the elongated "American".

- The most economical option is silicate brick, but it is not particularly popular for such finishing works.

- Ceramic bricks, including clinker bricks, usually have a hollow internal structure, which significantly reduces the weight of the cladding itself and gives a pronounced thermal insulation effect.

• However, it is not always possible to carry out real brickwork and, to be honest, it is far from always advisable, because such a decorative effect can be fully achieved by using facing.

A simpler and more affordable option is clinker tiles

The material of its manufacture is in no way inferior in its operational characteristics to brick, and correctly laid tiles give absolutely reliable visibility of a full-fledged brickwork. A variety of sizes, colors, external textures, special methods of surface decoration (using artificial aging technologies, uneven firing, the inclusion of additional fragments) allows you to give the basement of the building absolutely unique view.

As a rule, the collections of clinker facing tiles also include corner elements, which make it possible to simplify the laying as much as possible without disturbing its general pattern.

• It will be even easier to veneer the protruding part of the foundation "under a brick" if you use the basement panels.

They can be produced on thermally insulating polyurethane foam or polystyrene base. Tiles (clinker or made of artificial stone) are located and fixed on it with exact observance of the rows of "brickwork", castle grooveridged connections will not allow mistakes during installation. Spaces are provided for placing fasteners for mounting panels to the wall or subsystem guides. Necessarily there are elements for the design of the outer corners without violating the linearity and "runaway" of the rows.

Basement thermal panels - both decorative trim and reliable insulation

In this case, it is preferable - the panels are more durable, the tiles are glued into them especially reliably, they have higher thermal insulation qualities. If you have to purchase polystyrene foam panels, then preference should be given to extrusion polystyrene foam of high density.

Video: installation of basement thermal panels

• If there is no need to insulate the basement, then it is worth purchasing such panels without a thermal insulation layer. In this case, the basis for the rows of clinker tiles can be glass magnesite, OSB or fiber cement panels.

- Fiber cement - durable, environmentally friendly, high impact strength. However, they are quite heavy, which predetermines the complexity of installation. In addition, such panels do not like fracture loads, that is, they require special care during transportation and temporary storage.

- Panels based on OSB have practically no drawbacks - they are light, environmentally friendly, they are not afraid of external influences, of course, with the proper quality of the base.

- Glass magnesite is the most modern solution, since the material does not burn, withstands heating to very high temperatures, is not afraid of frost, and is resistant to ultraviolet light. A particular advantage is the flexibility that allows do work on walls, even with a slight curvature, which could not be eliminated by other methods.

Regular thickness glass magnesite bases - 8 mm, and this does not reduce the strength of the products and does not make the overall structure of the cladding heavier

Plinth siding finish

The design features of the basement or the entire facade cladding system do not always allow the use of natural or artificial stone (brick). It's okay, a very high-quality finish can be carried out using basement siding, which will give full visibility of the natural material.

Plinth finished with polymer panels - siding

Under the concept of "basement siding" lies a huge variety of finishes. Panels can vary greatly in size, design, and material of their manufacture.

Plinth siding is made of polyvinyl chloride, polymer sand mixtures, fiber cement, other composite materials. As a rule, the panels are mounted on the guide rails of the subsystem (in rare cases, directly on the wall), which makes it possible to place the required thickness of the insulation layer.

The dimensions of the panels and their shape can also be very diverse. Most often, the panels have a locking part and specially provided areas for attaching them to the guides.

There are so many options for surface texture, imitation of this or that material, colors that it is difficult even to describe them very approximately.

In addition to the traditional structure, basement siding panels can also have the appearance of a wooden rounded beam (block house), a ship board or roughly chipped shingles.

The original solution is a basement siding that imitates a wooden shingle

The main advantage of this approach to finishing the basement is the low weight of the material, ease of installation, the relative durability of the resulting cladding and ease of maintenance.

Video: polymer basement siding "under the stone"

A necessary element of the base / plinth finishing - ebb

The basement of the building can have different locations. So, it can be slightly "recessed" relative to the surface of the walls. Sometimes the basement is flush with the rest of the facade, although this option is considered the most unsuccessful - it does not provide adequate protection of the base from precipitation. Most often, the base protrudes outward in the form of a kind of step. It is in this case that its decoration will lose its meaning if it is not accompanied by the installation of ebb tides.

Mandatory element with a protruding plinth - ebb

These structural finishing elements will reliably protect the protruding part of the foundation from direct rainfall, drain water from the basement surface, and prevent moisture from penetrating into the cracks between the wall and the cladding materials

Ebb tides can be made from different materials.

• In most cases, metal castings are used, which produce them from galvanized sheet steel with a polymer coating, which becomes both additional protection against corrosion and gives the required decorative effect.

The most common are steel with a polymer coating

You can find ebb tides from aluminum, and as the most expensive option - even from sheet copper: they will be especially well in harmony with the copper roof of the building.

Exclusive option - copper sheet ebb

Video: installing metal sills on the base

• Plastic drips will cost a little less, but this material does not have the same durability as sheet metal, simply for reasons of lower mechanical strength. To protect the base, such an option is rarely used. Although, if the walls of the house are finished with PVC siding, then the polymer ebb will look very advantageous.
• If the ledge of the basement is large enough, and its lining is made of bricks or clinker tiles, then laying out ebbs from profiled ceramic (clinker) blocks becomes an excellent option.

They can be in the form of a brick with beveled edges in one direction, or in the form of rectangular tiles with a plane inclined to the horizon to ensure water drainage. The surface can be ordinary or with an applied glazed layer (smalt tiles).

Profile clinker panels with smalt coating - beautiful, but expensive

This low tide belt looks very impressive. But, however, its arrangement will require large material costs and labor-intensive a laying process that only a highly qualified master can perform.

So, there are a lot of options for how to decorate the base. You should evaluate in advance your financial resources, the fundamental possibility, feasibility, decorativeness and performance of the selected cladding, the availability of its independent implementation. Ideally, all these issues need to be thought out even at the stage of drafting the project of the future structure.

A basement is a part of the foundation that rises above ground level. Consequently, the same requirements are imposed on its finishing as for the entire base. It consists of a whole range of measures - the arrangement of the blind area, preliminary plastering (not always), waterproofing and a number of others. The nuances are determined by the characteristics of each building and local conditions.

But when all the work is completed, the question arises - how to presentably decorate the basement? It is desirable that it is both beautiful and not too expensive and complicated. There are more than enough materials for finishing the basement. But the price for some products is such that not everyone is able to "shell out" that kind of money. In addition, the installation of some products requires experience, special equipment, which is also associated with additional costs. And from this point of view, there are not so many options for inexpensive finishing.

This design is suitable for buildings erected from almost any material (cellular concrete, brick, and so on), with the exception of wood, since it is unlikely that the plastered foundation will be in harmony with it.

pros

Minuses

• Insufficient strength and, as a consequence, a short operational period.
• The need for frequent renewal of the paintwork (in the case of surface application of the composition).
• The complexity of leaving. It is rather problematic to wash off pieces of dirt that has got in - basically, only "dry" cleaning. In terms of maintenance, decorative plaster mixes are preferable, but they are quite expensive.

Finishing features

There is another opinion - to paint "on top", as such treatment will clog all the pores and prevent moisture penetration. But the question arises - what about vapor permeability? If there is a basement, and even intensively used, the question is not unimportant.

Siding panels

Naturally, this does not mean all that are on sale, but only those that are intended specifically for the base. By the way, they can also decorate walls.

pros

• Durability and reliability of the cladding. It protects the base well.
• Maintenance is not difficult - the panels are easy to clean.
• Possibility of quick replacement of the damaged product.

Minuses

Finishing features

1. The crate is pre-installed. Since the finishing of the basement is done outside the building, it is advisable to use a metal profile as a slats, and not wood - it is subject to decay.
2. It is necessary to ensure the sealing of all joints, as well as correctly calculate and maintain the necessary clearances (in case of thermal deformation of products).

Stone (artificial)

In principle, the method is also relatively inexpensive and effective if the type of product is selected correctly (temperature of use, strength, etc.).

pros

• Artificial stone is easy to make at home - we wrote about this here. This will slightly increase the time for the production of works, but will significantly reduce their total cost.
• Variety of cladding options (appearance).
• Durability, long service life.
• Good maintainability.
• Lightweight and easy to attach. The artificial stone can be simply glued onto the base.

Minuses

• Works are carried out only at "positive" temperatures. This is determined by the properties of the recommended adhesives. It should be noted that you can work with some of them even when the minus is outside. But here a certain difficulty arises - how to correctly calculate the size of the gaps between products? Therefore, "winter" work requires a certain amount of experience.
• The process is quite painstaking and lengthy, you need increased attention and accuracy.

Finishing features

Much depends on what material the imitation of natural stone is based on. Practice shows that not everyone can independently perform such work - finishing. Most likely, you will have to pay for someone's services.

It makes no sense to provide a comparison of materials at prices, They depend on so many factors that it is simply impossible to take everything into account. One must not forget a simple truth - it is not always possible to equate the concepts of “cheap” and “quality”.

Output

Plastering a plinth is the most economical option that does not require the involvement of professionals. But if financial possibilities allow, then it is better to stop at the 2nd or 3rd options.

• If the house is erected on a pile foundation, then the supporting frame is pre-mounted, which is sheathed with any material. The main requirement for it is moisture resistance.
• When calculating the cost of work, it is necessary to look not only at the price of the material, but also to take into account what the costs of its installation will cost. In addition, an important factor is the service life. It is wiser to buy a product for finishing more expensive and durable than regularly repairing the plinth lining and at the same time spending money again.

What is the best material for cladding the basement of a house? This question worries many who are faced with the need to finish this structure. The plinth surrounds the entire house and is an important element that protects the structure (especially its lower part) from the harmful effects of the environment. In addition, it plays an important decorative role.

House basement options

There are several types of the basement of the house, each has its own characteristics.

1. Westerner. This type is a structure that is offset inward with respect to the main facade. The deepening is most often at least 50 mm. Such a device allows you to perform work with little cost, and also make the drain less noticeable.
2. In one plane. This option requires complex sealing, so the drainage system must be fixed during the general construction phase. This will avoid further problems.
3. Speaker. To sheathe such a basement at home with your own hands, it is necessary (as in the previous version) to thoroughly think over the drainage system. If it is improperly arranged, water accumulates in the section of separation of the foundation and the wall. To avoid such troubles, moisture removal is planned taking into account the decoration of the facade.

Drainage device for protruding plinth when finishing the facade with siding

On a note! When choosing a material for cladding, you should take into account the design features.

The need for finishing

If the finishing of the foundation of the house has not been completed earlier or the old cladding has fallen into disrepair, then the outer cladding must be performed. Its main functions:

• Protection of the base of the house from environmental influences (precipitation, sunlight, wind). This allows you to significantly increase the durability of the entire structure.
• Additional insulation. If required, a layer of thermal insulation is created, which can be associated with the insulation of the blind area. This procedure not only improves the energy efficiency of the building, but also saves it from many problems. The upper facing layer will hide the insulation and serve as an additional barrier against cold penetration.
• Decorativeness. An area finished with the right and suitable material can emphasize the overall direction of the design.

Insulation of the basement with subsequent finishing with tiles

Based on these parameters, the construction products necessary for the work are selected.

How to sheathe the foundation of the house outside?

The material for the base is purchased taking into account the following factors:

1. Installation technology. There are two methods for covering the surface: dry and wet. The first assumes that the selected products are stacked on a previously erected frame. If the specifics allow, then the products can be mounted directly, without crate. The second option is more laborious: to overlay the base, you will need to use glue or a suitable solution. It is also possible to decorate the foundation of the house with the help of plaster, which will act as an independent product.

   Installation of facing material is carried out in two ways: on the frame and glue

2. Frost resistance. First of all, the climate of a particular area is taken into account. The purchased products must withstand multiple defrosting and freezing cycles and not be deformed. When mounting elements on glue, the composition used must also comply with this requirement.
3. Resistant to water and aggressive substances. The foundation sheathing should not strongly absorb moisture and react when chemical compounds get on it.

They also pay attention to the manufacturer of the product and the place of purchase. It is better to give preference to proven brands and specialized outlets.

Types of finishing materials for the basement and features of their installation

When choosing a material, you need to consider the method of its installation. There are options that are attached directly to the walls, but there are also those that require the construction of a frame.

Wireframe method

Foundation finishing materials installed on the crate are relatively new products. This list includes species that differ in technical characteristics.

The frame method involves the preliminary installation of the lathing, on which the cladding is then mounted

Panels

This includes panels made of different materials; it is customary to include siding and corrugated board in this group. When choosing, it is better to give preference to options that are made specifically in order to finish the basement. They are more durable and may include an additional layer of thermal insulation.

Plinth trim with decorative panels

Among the advantages of the products are:

• Availability. Indeed, it is precisely this type that makes it possible to perform work inexpensively. This option allows you to get a balance of price and quality. But you should abandon products with too low cost. Most likely, they are made of low-quality plastic, which will quickly deteriorate.
• Ease of installation. Facing with panels is carried out using a tool that every home craftsman has in stock, so there is no need to involve specialists for the work.
• Possibility of additional thermal insulation. Installation on a frame solves two problems at once - ventilation and insulation. This will keep the coating free from freezing, reduce heat loss and the likelihood of mold and mildew.

The presence of space between materials in the frame method provides natural air circulation

• Decorativeness. The panels, especially the basement ones, have a well-defined imitation of natural materials. That is, the lined area fits perfectly into the design idea and the environment.

Attention! The choice of unsuitable products can greatly spoil the result. For example, corrugated board for such a process must have increased rigidity, that is, have a durable topcoat.

Porcelain stoneware and types of tiles

For the plinth cladding, mainly porcelain stoneware and clinker tiles are used in the form of large parts. The second option can be laid with the wet method, then fragments of material are used. Due to its high weight, porcelain stoneware is installed only on the crate, while it must have increased reliability.

Finishing the foundation with porcelain stoneware slab

Advantages of porcelain stoneware and tiles:

• Light load on the building. This effect is achieved due to the frame, which takes up the main pressure.
• Quick installation. It is possible to cover the foundation of a house in a short period of time, but it is extremely problematic to do this without some experience. Porcelain stoneware requires the installation of special fasteners, which is not always possible without understanding the process. The tile is fixed much easier, for this there are special metal ears.
• Durability. The service life of such foundation materials is calculated in decades.
• Moisture resistance. Parts do not absorb water well, therefore they are not subject to deformation.

Such materials for the foundation have a significant disadvantage - high cost. There is no need to purchase cheap tiles, as this often indicates low quality. For work, a version for the street with the "Snowflake" icon is used.

An alternative to tiles can be artificial stone. Elements are installed on the lathing through special holes or directly.

On a note! At the moment, thermal panels are becoming more and more popular, which combine the advantages of panels and tiles. They represent a base with insulation, on which clinker tiles are applied.

Thermal panel device

How to sheathe a foundation using lathing

All base / plinth finishing options, which involve installation on a crate, have a common structure cladding technology:

1. Work begins with the preparation of the foundation. It is cleaned of dust and dirt, all cracks are carefully covered with putty. If there is serious damage, then before finishing the basement of the house, it is advisable to strengthen the foundation.
2. Due to the fact that this part of the building is exposed to more moisture, it is treated with antiseptics. It is better to carry out the impregnation in several layers.
3. After surface preparation, the frame is erected. For this purpose, a wooden beam or a metal profile can be used. It is important to take into account that wood needs to be treated against rot, and metal parts cannot be cut with a grinder, this leads to corrosion.
4. The racks are installed perpendicular to the direction of laying the material. If the products have the same sides, then the vertical method is considered preferable.
5. Insulation is placed in the resulting cells. It is fixed on special anchors.
6. Vertical ties are mounted between the frame posts and a place is left for installing the ebb.
7. The material for finishing the basement is laid in several ways: overlapping, by means of a thorn-groove connection, on special brackets or clamps. Fixation is done on self-tapping screws. If the products are subject to thermal expansion, then the fasteners are loose.
8. The ebb is mounted.

For the foundation finished with panel elements, additional moldings are used. They are installed at the corners for a better decorative look.

Frameless way

It is possible to revet the basement of a house without the help of a frame; for these purposes, different product options are used.

Brick

Features of the use of the material:

• Great for pile or block foundations. But for the device of brickwork, it is necessary to create a reliable support.
• The resulting coating has good resistance to external influences.
• For work, products with low moisture absorption are used. If this parameter is not taken into account, then the surface is deformed.
• This type of decoration of the basement does not differ in democratic cost, and certain experience is required for the work.

Brick cladding

Algorithm for creating masonry:

1. The coating goes through a preparation procedure.
2. If there is no reliable support, then a foundation block will do. He digs into the prepared foundation pit. This is especially true with a pile foundation.
3. Waterproofing is laid on top of the base. In this capacity, roofing material can act.
4. The first row is assembled after a thorough level check. In this case, the spoon masonry option is more suitable.
5. To ensure reliability, a bundle is arranged. For this, anchors are installed in the foundation. If this method is not possible, then a wire with fixation on the piles is used.
6. The ebb is mounted.

Brick cladding scheme

The difficulty lies in the need for reliable brick laying.

Artificial and natural stone

Facing the foundation with artificial or natural stone is not an easy task, especially for the second option. Both varieties have excellent technical parameters in terms of durability and reliability, but natural products need more careful care and are expensive.

Natural stone in the design of the base

Natural stone is laid as follows:

1. Regardless of what types of finishing are performed, the surface must be carefully prepared.
2. Due to the heavy load, the foundation should be covered with a reinforcing mesh and covered with a layer of plaster.
3. The parts are laid after the layout is drawn up. If the fragments are of an irregular shape, then they are first laid out on a flat area.
4. Fixation is carried out on a special glue, which is applied to the surface, the wrong side of the parts is slightly moistened.
5. A small gap is necessarily left between the fragments, it compensates for the thermal expansion.
6. If required, grouting and ebb installation are carried out.

A similar principle is used to decorate the basement of the house using artificial stone and tiles.

Plaster

Plaster is the most economical option that allows you to perform work without the involvement of specialists and complex equipment. For this process, a special type of mixture for external use is used.

Plaster finishing

On a note! Do-it-yourself foundation finishing using plaster is carried out in two ways: without additional thermal insulation and with insulation.

General technology of work:

1. The surface is being prepared.
2. A layer of glue is applied, on which the thermal insulation material is fixed.
3. After the composition has dried, the insulation is additionally strengthened with special dowels.
4. Next, a small layer of mortar or glue is applied to the surface, after which a thin reinforcing mesh is stretched. It should be completely covered with the mixture.
5. The surface is left to dry.
6. The finishing layer is plaster. A spatula is used to apply it, and a rule for leveling.
7. At the end of the work, the surface is covered with a protective paint layer.

Plaster plaster finishing scheme

This method allows you to tie the insulation to the thermal insulation of the blind area.

Plinth decoration

The decorative finishing of the foundation is considered an integral part of the process. The following options apply:

• Coloring. It is carried out even after the passage of time. You can choose the shade that best suits the cladding of the house and favorably distinguishes the base.
• Use of decorative or textured plaster. Such material is tinted and may include a fraction of natural stones or sand. This gives an unusual effect when applied correctly.

Decorative plaster in the design of the basement floor

• Creation of a relief surface. For this, a simple facade plaster is used, on which an imitation of stone or brick masonry is formed. Additionally, staining is carried out in different colors.
• The simplest is the use of materials with the desired imitation.

Working with a plinth is a rather complex undertaking, the basis of which is the correct choice of products.

Finishing the basement, on the one hand, is simpler than the facade: there are no special aesthetic and architectural subtleties here. The plinth can be in harmony or contrast with the overall design of the building in tone, texture, and type of material used, see fig. Corrosive pedants just need to point to the Erechtheion, the Roman baths or any of the Gothic cathedrals - and let them say what they want.

Samples of finishing the basement of private houses

For small individual construction, the option of a raised basement is also of particular interest (photo below on the right in the figure): the tape protruding foundation is finished without any pretensions, if only for a long time, and the wall belt above it imitates a high basement. This allows you to fully concentrate technically on the correct arrangement of a very critical place in the entire structure of the house - the junction of the wall with the basement (ledge of the foundation); in particular, on the ebb device, see below, without prejudice to the appearance of the house.

On the other hand, the plinth cladding is exposed to intense chemical (atmospheric moisture, dirt, organic matter from the soil), physical (temperature and humidity changes) and mechanical abrasive agents (wind-blown grains of sand). The concentration of dust, dirt and splashes of solutions of soil components in the air depends on the height above the ground according to a power law and within 50 cm from the ground they fall 10 times or more relative to zero. Therefore, both the materials for finishing the basement and the methods of working with them require a more careful approach than for finishing the facade.

On the third, finishing the basement with a stone or other strong, durable and heavy material almost always does not cause any technical difficulties, because the height of the base usually does not exceed 80 cm; in extreme cases - up to 2 m, for a house with a basement, and the basement itself is made of durable materials, otherwise it simply will not carry weight, climatic and operational loads. So the material for the plinth cladding can be chosen, limited only by financial considerations.

Work order

The basement of a residential building is clad in the order of the work of the final stage of construction - exterior decoration. In general, the decoration of the basement of the house is carried out in stages in the following order:

• A trench is being dug under a blind area with a depth of approx. 30 cm (on a shovel bayonet) or 15-20 cm deeper under the blind area with insulation;
• A sand and gravel cushion is laid in the trench, optionally also a heater;
• A rough finish of the basement is carried out in order to level its surface;
• A blind area is being arranged;
• Decorative finishing of the basement is carried out;
• Only after that, all other work on the exterior of the building begins, incl. facade cladding.

It is not recommended to break this sequence, especially for inexperienced amateur builders, but in some cases, discussed below, it is possible, for example. if the basement of an existing building is being tiled or repaired. In this case, the design of the base plays a decisive role for the complexity of the work and the possibility of using one or another finishing material.

Plinth and ebb

The decoration of the basement of a private house in relation to the choice of material and the method of its installation largely depends on the design of the basement itself and its ebb. The conjugation of the bearing wall with the plinth is the most likely place for moisture to enter the gap between them, causing the walls to become damp. From below it is not allowed by waterproofing, for that it is put. But the water flowing into the walls is also capable of leaking under the wall along the same waterproofing, this is the so-called. capillary locking. To prevent it, an ebb is arranged over the base.

Base / plinth design options

Possible base / plinth design options are shown in Fig. If the base is sinking (pos. 1) - you're in luck. A simple single ebb is placed between the layers of insulation; if a drip groove (dropper) is knocked out on the bottom of the wall, pos. 1a, capillary blocking of the walls is excluded. But then either the wall should be from 2.5 bricks, or the basement ceiling is slab, pos. 1b. Budget developers avoid the latter option - it is expensive - but in vain: then, during the operation of the house, the slab overlap justifies itself with interest. Moreover, on, in fact, the second base of the house, you can build a lighter and cheaper box. Also, in this case, you can build from foam / gas blocks, then revet the house with brick, which looks solid and inexpensive.

More often, they are still found at home on a protruding base, pos. 2. The technology of preventing capillary blockage in this case is known, it is a double ebb, pos. 2a. Its outer tray (add-on) is placed at the end of the decorative finish of the basement and facade, so that it can be changed as it wears out. For reliability, silicone is applied to the surface of the rim (upper fold, fold) of the tray adjacent to the wall before installation.

Now on sale there are "eternal" ebbs from propylene or stainless steel, their durability exceeds the estimated service life of residential buildings of conventional construction. With the "eternal" ebb tide, the task of keeping the wall dry is simplified: the basement is completely finished, and the ebb tide is placed on the wall before facing it with a moisture-proof material, for example. waterproof plaster, clinker or adhesive thermal panels. The ebb rim turns out to be walled up in the facade cladding, pos. 2b, and the water will no longer flow under the wall.

Note: These same methods of installing the ebb are applicable for houses on a plinth flush with the wall, although, in general, a "flat" plinth is bad in all respects.

Sometimes, for decorative purposes, the ebb as such is abandoned, replacing it with a brick cornice. So it is possible, but the front brick on the cornice needs to be taken so-called. hyper-pressed (hyper-molded), grind the eaves-ebb seams flush, and use waterproof and moisture-proof mortar and grout with polymer additives. In amateur conditions, you can prepare them with your own hands by adding to the cement-sand mortar from M200 and grout for outdoor work, 1-3 glasses per bucket of PVA or polymer tile glue such as bustilate. You can also use an adhesive for porcelain stoneware or clinker (terracotta) tiles.

Hyper-pressed bricks are often falsified. The real one can be recognized by its homogeneous structure, the absence of visible inclusions and the even dark color of a matte or semi-matt surface, the so-called. bricks - "chocolates", pos. 3. On ordinary (quite suitable for their purpose) facing bricks, forming an ebb, after a winter or two, the core will appear and efflorescence will go, pos. 3a, which means - break the lining of the basement and redo the ebb while the wall is locked.

Finally, wooden houses are built almost exclusively on protruding plinths: the minimum permissible width of the foundation strip here turns out to be greater than the thickness of the wall, and it is impossible to put a log house or frame on a concrete slab for a number of reasons. In this case, the ebb can only be double; its options for a log or log and frame house are shown in pos. 4 and 5. In a log / log house, the attachment of the outer tray rim is sealed with silicone; in a frame house, this is not required, because wall cladding also serves as a teardrop.

Note: in all cases of using a double ebb, the distance between the eaves of the inner and outer trays should be at least 10-12 mm in any place.

Preparation for cladding

The most difficult and time-consuming part of finishing the basement is leveling its surface under the cladding; the basement can be made of rubble stone, concrete blocks (possibly old, crumbling along the edges) or the above-ground part of the concrete foundation. In this case, the easiest way to prepare it for cladding with your own hands is to plaster with cement-sand or cement-lime starting (rough) plaster for outdoor use. Self-mixing can be done using the hydrophobic method described above (PVA, bustilate, etc.).

Leveling the surface of the basement for facing with starting plaster on a reinforcing mesh.

For leveling with plaster, the plinth is treated with a deep penetration primer on the appropriate material (stone, brick, concrete), large protrusions are roughly knocked down, if necessary, patching is done with cement-sand mortar and a steel reinforcing mesh with a thickness of approx. 4 mm, see fig. I use a thick plaster mortar, not dripping; the layer is given in 1.5-2 mesh thickness. Rub it to evenness with a polisher immediately, without waiting for seizure. After setting, check the evenness with a rod (norm - 3 mm / m), rub and finish as needed. It is advisable to first make a separate plot of 1-1.5 sq. m, after that, and the "kettle" with hands from where it is necessary at least the start will put quite evenly under the lining.

Materials and technologies

The materials for the lining of the base, as mentioned above, must be resistant to thermal, chemical, mechanical stress and abrasion. Modern materials for finishing the basement, according to the price and complexity of the work, are generally divided into the following classes:

• Painted waterproof plaster is the easiest and cheapest option. Best suited for a low, up to 40 cm, plinth, the finish of which is not really visible anyway. Maintainability is limited because it is difficult to choose paint for the patch exactly in the tone of the existing one.
• Artificial stone - in terms of complexity and cost, the lining of the basement is comparable to plaster. The appearance is 3+ or 4–, but the corners are much easier to stroke, see below. Full maintainability.
• Natural (wild) stone and facing brick - cladding a basement with them can be inexpensive and not require much work, but if the basement and blind area are insulated, the complexity of the work increases many times over, see also below. The maintainability is very limited: it is very difficult to remove the damaged fragment (s) without disturbing the facing over a sufficiently large area.
• Flexible stone - in terms of the combination of parameters price / quality / appearance / technical capabilities is unmatched. Finishing the plinth with a flexible stone is also possible in a budget option. Full maintainability.
• Basement siding - depending on the region, it can be cheaper than plaster, and in appearance surpass artificial stone (not natural!). Correct installation is not difficult, but requires certain knowledge and skills. The maintainability is complete, but the repair is rather laborious.
• Basement cladding panels (not front!) Are somewhat more expensive than basement siding with the same decorative qualities, but are devoid of its weak points (see below). Maintainability is limited for the same reasons as wild stone and brick.
• Clinker (terracotta) and porcelain stoneware facing tiles are the most expensive and labor-intensive, but the most resistant and durable option. If you need a basement surface for a noble polished stone, then porcelain stoneware is practically the only option at a not terrifying price.

Plaster

There is no point in decorating the basement with a beautiful, but not very durable finishing decorative plaster in this place. It is best to simply paint the rough base for finishing with alkyd enamels for outdoor use. They will cost a little more, but yacht enamels will last much longer. The option is a little more expensive, but even more resistant and absolutely moisture-proof - the so-called. latex acrylic paints or acrylic emulsions; on drying, they give a layer similar to dense rubber, only colored.

Plastered plinths can be immediately finished with a stone look using silicone dies. A set of stamps costs about 500 rubles, but you can make them yourself. In general, plastering a plinth for a stone is carried out as follows:

• Samples (models) of natural stone of any breed of suitable size and more or less coinciding in contour, without overlap, up to 12-15 mm thick are selected.
• For each model, a plywood or plank box is made - a flask - with sides 2-3 cm higher than the stone.
• Models are abundantly impregnated with mineral oil (you can use engine oil) and dried for 2-3 days.
• Next, the models are lubricated with petroleum jelly (lanolin), each is placed in its own box and filled with silicone. The flasks from the inside must also be smeared with petroleum jelly before this.
• When the silicone hardens, the flasks are disassembled, the models are pulled out of the stamp blanks (do not be afraid to pull, the silicone is stretchable and strong) and the stamps are cut with a knife along the contour with an allowance for the width of the seam.
• On the base prepared as described above, a layer of thick mortar up to 16 mm thick is applied and stamped immediately, before setting.
• Upon complete hardening of the coating, it is painted.

Fake diamond

Decorating the basement of the house with artificial stone.

Facing the basement of a house with an artificial stone, with all its mediocre advantages, is good for budget developers in that the forms for corner elements (see Fig.) Can be made independently. The corners are the weakest points of the cladding, it is here that the masonry seams begin to crack and the moisture under the cladding creeps exactly where it is not needed. An artificial stone is mounted on a basement or similar to a natural one without insulation, or on tile glue as a tile (see both below),

DIY methods for making artificial stone are described in other materials; any kind of it suitable for paving paths will go to the basement. You can also make a homemade artificial stone for facing the basement from the same plaster solution. The workflow differs from the manufacture of stamps for a stone in that it is not necessary to select models by thickness so strictly and that the casting mass is tinted in advance, which makes the color more resistant; see the video below. The technology for making an artificial stone from plaster with your own hands is not strict, there are different options here.

Wild stone and brick

The natural stone for facing the basement must be chosen heavy, with low moisture absorption, i.e. not subject to frost. Shales, sandstones, limestone, dolomite, travertine and tuffs are definitely not suitable. Best of all are granite, diorite, diabase, basalt, gabbro and other rocks that can withstand at least 1000 complete freeze / thaw cycles. With the current climate changes, this is not so much, in Central Russia in the off-season there can be a full cycle every day.

The technology of facing the basement with natural stone significantly depends on whether it is insulated or not. Without insulation, the matter is easier, you just need to fulfill the following conditions (see the figure on the right):

Plinth cladding scheme with natural stone

Prepare the base on a steel reinforcing mesh (see above) with a cement-sand mortar from M200. The same solution is used for masonry cladding.

• Turn stones outward with their widest sides.
• The stones should be sunk into the masonry mortar so that their tops sunk into the mortar are located on the smoothest possible virtual surface (indicated by a green dotted line). Peaks of stone sticking out inside sharply reduce the strength of the masonry.
• The layer of masonry mortar above the base should not be less than 30 mm anywhere on the plinth, but not more than 70 mm.
• Do not leave deep gaps between stones, hoping to cut the seams later. It is better to give excess solution and remove the squeezed out.

Note: Do not be afraid of moss and lichen on a stone plinth. They will not spoil the stone in the least, they will only add chic to the house. Mold and efflorescence (salt spots on damp and then dried out places) - that's what is bad. But on the stones of the above rocks, both do not exist.

Finishing the basement with facing brick differs from facing with wild stone, firstly, in that the masonry joints are made normal for brickwork with a thickness of 10-13 mm. Secondly, the masonry mortar must be impervious to moisture with a plasticizer (see above), because in the seams of the brickwork, he loves to linger in moisture and accumulate dirt. Thirdly, it is very, very desirable to use a hyper-pressed brick, as for a brick ebb, see above.

Facing the basement with natural stone and brick is seriously complicated if the walls, foundation and basement are insulated. Then, not only is there nothing to hold onto the heavy cladding, but there is also a danger of capillary moisture penetrating into the insulation. What complex of works is required in order to avoid both, you can imagine by looking at the scheme of lining the insulated basement with a stone in Fig.:

Scheme of cladding a stone basement with insulation

And the matter will be even more complicated if the basement of an existing house is faced, because the retaining wall will shrink. In this case, it is better to cover the basement under the stone with siding, panels, and if you want the high cost to immediately catch your eye - with tiles. But first, let's finish with stone materials.

Flexible stone

Flexible stone in some sources is presented as a kind of "flexible tiles on polymer resins." Apparently, those authors remember the old Soviet flexible facing tiles, which, as they say, have been looking for fistulas for a long time. There she is also dear: polymer tiles shriveled, shrinked, cracked, quickly worn out even in heated rooms.

Flexible stone in decoration and cladding

The binder of a flexible stone is, indeed, synthetic resins, only not the mythical "polymer", but polyester and urea, but the essence of this material is in a textile base sprinkled with stone chips. The advantages of flexible stone as an external facing material are truly magnificent (see fig.):

• Safe, environmentally friendly, chemically and mechanically resistant, chemically neutral.
• Designed service life - over 150 years.
• Easy to handle, can be cut with scissors.
• It shines through, you can hide the lights behind the cladding or even make a street lamp from a flexible stone, which, when turned off during the day, will be a sculpture to match the decoration of the house.
• Available in an innumerable variety of unique textures and colors that are completely natural, both solid and torn, with gaps in imitation of masonry seams.
• Curved surfaces and corners are easily traced with a flexible stone.
• There is no front and basement, external and internal flexible stone, it is suitable for all types of finishing work. One and the same material can be used to decorate the basement, window and door trims, balcony, cornice, etc.
• Finishing the basement of a house with a flexible stone on a difficult terrain (uneven slope, etc.) costs 7-20 times cheaper than any other material comparable in decorative qualities and durability of cladding.
• Thorough surface preparation for flexible stone is not required. If the irregularities do not exceed 10-12 mm, the flexible stone is laid simply on tile glue (the minimum layer above the protrusions of the base is 2 mm). Otherwise, potholes are roughly covered with cement-sand mortar. Which in any case does not hurt for the sake of saving expensive glue.

There are only two disadvantages of a flexible stone: it is rough; glossy and semi-glossy (polished) does not exist. Then, the base for a flexible stone needs a strong one, therefore it is impossible to glue it directly onto the insulation or SMP (see below), first you need to prepare the plaster base, as described above.

Basement siding panel

The basement of the house is faced with a special basement siding, which is more wear-resistant and durable than the front one. Basement siding is available in PVC and propylene. The former is cheaper, brighter and can be glossy; the second is more resistant. Externally, the basement siding differs from the facade siding in that it is made not with boards, but with slabs with tongue-and-groove joints on latches, see Fig. Therefore, filing the basement siding in size is possible only at the corners, and the seam must be covered with a standard additional element. The basement siding is mounted on a horizontal lathing made of wood or steel profiles on hardware (self-tapping screws).

Facing with siding is the least time-consuming way to finish a basement under a stone at an affordable cost; it doesn’t matter whether it’s an old house or a new building. But the "law of free cheese" is adamant here too: serious problems of lining the basement with siding are, firstly, damage to the crate, secondly, the accumulation of moisture in the cavities under the cladding, and thirdly, the settlement of insects and rodents in the same place. As a result, the cladding is not so cheap and simple due to the difficulties with the blind area.

The general scheme for installing basement siding is given in Fig. below; drainage is highly desirable and dry enough. Installation of basement siding is carried out after the complete arrangement of the blind area. At the bottom and top, deformation gaps of 10-15 mm are left, which are foamed, sealed with a plastic glue recommended by the manufacturer (for example, CM14) and covered with additional elements (plinth, cornice).

Installation scheme for basement siding

However, each manufacturer of plinth siding is struggling with the problems of its product in its own way, which, incidentally, indicates that there is still no optimal solution. Therefore, if you opt for siding for the basement, then:

• Request a supplier or search the manufacturer's website for a material specification and make sure that it suits your conditions (temperature range, annual rainfall, soil properties, basement structure and material, building structure).
• Use the recommended types of extensions, lathing material, fasteners and sealant.
• Follow the manufacturer's installation instructions carefully.
• In no case do not save on starting and finishing bars: moisture, dirt, mice and spiders with congeners are just waiting for that.

Panels and slabs

Finishing the basement with panels is somewhat more complicated and expensive than with siding, but it is devoid of its drawbacks, because there is no lathing with its pockets, the panels are put on glue. Metal composite panels, however, are mounted on the crate, but they are rarely used for finishing private houses because of their utilitarian look. Most often, the basement is finished with facade thermal panels with clinker stone linings and polyurethane insulation, they are quite suitable for this purpose. The plinth trimmed with panels looks no worse than under the siding. Thermal panels are mounted on the base in the same way as on the facade; leveling of the surface to an unevenness of 3 mm / m is required. Insulation is obtained automatically.

You can also find recommendations to finish the base with magnesia glass plates (SMP), but this option is far from the best: SMP are fragile, little resistant to abrasion and soil chemistry. Outside, in resorts, the facades of houses for rent are sometimes trimmed in the style of half-timbered houses with high-class SMPs (on the right in the figure), but such cladding serves for 10-15 years, and during this time it is necessary to do 2-3 of its cosmetic repairs.

Magnesite glass panels (SMP)

In private construction, the NSR is sometimes used as a permanent formwork for a towering strip foundation, which, in general, is good in all respects, except for the price. In this case, the SMP above the ground can be prepared for finishing, as described above, only the mesh fasteners must be taken longer so that the self-tapping screws sit in the plinth. And then natural stone and brick as a basement finish disappear: under the weight of the cladding will peel off along with the plaster and mesh.

Tile

Facing the basement with tiles is a poor man's decision left over from Soviet times. The porous material gains moisture, the glaze loses its appearance due to the appearance of microcracks and the effect of sand grains. The basement tiles are finished with either clinker (terracotta) or ceramic-granite tiles. Facing the basement of an existing house with tiles is not technologically different from that during the construction process, which is an undoubted advantage .. But in either case, the work is very laborious and requires a fairly high level of qualifications: the base surface is leveled and its patching is performed. The base is then primed with a deep penetration primer. The tile is placed on glue (layer - 2-3 mm) in sections 1-1.5 m long. Immediately, while the glue has not grabbed, fix the tiles with crosses or other spacers (see fig.), Otherwise the facing will slip. Separators are also placed at the bottom, there you need a gap of 10-12 mm, which is subsequently sealed with the same glue. The subsequent section is revetted after the glue has hardened on the previous one.

Tiling the plinth

Note: it is impossible to prepare the surface for the tiles in the way described above (mesh + plaster), the cladding will peel off.

If you still want to decorate your basement with tiles (it looks rich, you will not say anything), then it is better to revet it with porcelain stoneware. First, the hardness of porcelain stoneware is comparable to the hardness of sapphire and corundum, sand does not care for it. Secondly, strong inorganic acids, except for hydrofluoric and fluorine-antimony, do not act on porcelain stoneware. Thirdly, porcelain stoneware is produced in slabs up to 30x60 cm, so the work will not come out so stubborn. Fourthly, it is possible to split porcelain stoneware on a solid base and with a sufficiently elastic layer under the tiles only with a shot from a rifled weapon; Buckshot fired from a 12-gauge pump-action shotgun at a distance of 15 meters flattens and rebounds. Fifth, porcelain stoneware slabs are also produced with a glossy surface, almost indistinguishable from polished stone. Sixth, due to the small TCR (coefficient of thermal expansion), porcelain stoneware on the plinth can be laid “without a seam”, i.e. with a seam 1-2 mm thick, which enhances the decorative effect.

And more about the stone

Let's take another look at what kinds of stone are suitable for facing the basement. Yes, this is ... a heavy boot! Fractionated broken stone is not cheap, but if you order a dump truck of solid rubble and sort it out yourself, you will find enough pieces to build a stone basement, and, smaller, to fill then the recesses between large fragments. So, and building, as they say, tightly on a budget, consider also the option of a stone basement. Cladding / finishing as such is eliminated, and with 100% natural stone any home will look solid.

The basement of the house is located between the foundation and the first floor of the building. First of all, it is designed to protect housing from moisture and low temperatures entering living quarters. Let's try to figure out what this structure is and how to make the basement of the house correctly.

Features of the

The basement of a private house is a rather important element of the building structure, however, not everyone clearly understands its function. The main function of this element can be found in its name. In Italian, "tsokcolo" means the foot of a building or, in other words, what the main structure of the building is mounted on.

This is a necessary element for any building, be it the basement of a brick house, utility building, etc. The basic principles of building a basement of a private house do not differ from the principles of building it in a barn. The main purpose of the basement floor is to protect the premises of the house from environmental aggressors (cold, humidity, etc.). That is why this element of the house is insulated and waterproofed.

The connection of the basement with other planes of the house is necessarily isolated from the aggressive effects of the environment. Due to hydro and thermal insulation, moisture does not penetrate into the building material and does not give a chance for condensation to develop in the room. In addition, the plinth counteracts the penetration of cold into the house and serves as an additional decorative element.

Thanks to a wide range of finishing materials on the construction market, there are many opportunities to realize your design ideas through finishing the basement of the house. You can get inspired by looking at photos of the interesting design of the basement of the house on the web or in magazines.

Among the important functions of the base, you can also highlight:

• Creation of an air gap that insulates the basement of the house.
• Stable air circulation, which ensures a long service life of the structure.
• Raising the walls of the house, which helps to protect them from moisture and damage.

Base types

Depending on the connection to the outer wall, the basement can be of different types: sinking, protruding, in a single plane. According to experts, it is the last option that is most irrational, since with the same level of the basement and the wall, moisture easily penetrates into the room. The option of a sinking base would be ideal.

Among the main advantages of the sinking structure are:

• overload protection;
• budget.

The overhanging section of the sinking plinth will create additional protection of the room from rainwater. It looks attractive. Unfortunately, this type of construction is not advisable to use in the construction of a house with thin walls.

As for the protruding basement, then it is done if the presence of a basement / subfloor is implied. Just this option is suitable for a house with thin walls. This type of plinth protects against moisture and low temperatures.

If the house is settled on a strip foundation, then the part that protrudes above the ground will become the basement. The columnar base of the house implies a base in the form of walls between the pillars. In another way, they call it a pick-up. In addition, such a plinth significantly strengthens the foundation of the house.

Plinth installation on different types of foundations

The design and features of the basement directly depend on the type of foundation. For example, for a strip foundation, a plinth is needed, which will carry the load-bearing function. For a columnar foundation, the plinth serves as a protection against adverse environmental conditions.

Strip foundation

Several types of basement structures are suitable for this type.

• Monolithic. This type of base is a single structure with a foundation.
• Brick. Bricks are erected on top of the base. An ideal solution for a log house.
• Concrete. The basis of such a structure is made up of concrete slabs, which are laid on top of the foundation or as a base.

Pile foundation

In the event that the building will be erected on a pile type of foundation, that is, the following options for the construction of the basement.

Suspended plinth. For him, along the perimeter of the building, a crate is needed on which the cladding will be attached. The main advantage is easy installation. Such a basement of the house can easily be equipped with your own hands. This option will not work if you need a warm subfloor at home.

The wall between the piles. It will cover the subfloor. If the foundation is not too deep, then a strip base should be installed around the perimeter and finished with bricks.

The basement of the house is exposed to moisture, rain, melting snow, etc. Humidity accumulating in the materials in the basement floor can rise to other floors and enter the living quarters. Salt spots will appear on the walls, the facade will lose its attractiveness, and the thermal conductivity of the walls of the house will increase. In order to avoid the occurrence of such problems, it is necessary to install high-quality and reliable waterproofing.

The most susceptible to such environmental influences is a site located thirty centimeters from ground level. In other words, the height of the hydro-barrier should not be less than this figure. Ideally, the protected height of the basement of the house is around 70-80 centimeters.

If there is a basement in the house, it is necessary to install two waterproofing belts. They are usually located at the basement level and in the basement. In the latter, horizontal waterproofing is installed, which prevents the rise of moisture through the capillaries of the building.

Several types of waterproofing are intended for the basement, but the most popular are: coating and pasting.

The first consists of several layers of waterproof coating, which includes bitumen, polymers, mastic and various polymer solutions. Among the advantages of coating waterproofing, ease of application and low price. Cons: poor frost resistance and fragility (service life no more than five years).

The glued waterproofing consists of rolled bitumen membranes up to five millimeters thick (several layers) and a film.

When planning the construction of a house, consider the technical characteristics of the future building and the desired results. The material studied in advance will help in the future to carefully design the building, taking into account all the features.

Photo of the basement of the house

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