A simple air compressor, with which you can perform paint work or pump up the tires of a car, can be made with your own hands from scrap materials. A home-made compressor will work no worse than its factory counterparts, and the cost of manufacturing it will be minimal.

You can make a mini compressor for connecting a spray gun or airbrush from a car pump, slightly improving it. Modernization of the compressor will increase its power (performance) and will consist in adapting it to a voltage of 220 V (instead of 12 V), connecting the device to the receiver and installing automation.

Adaptation of the device for a voltage of 220 V

To connect the auto pump to the 220 V network, you will need to find some power supply unit (PSU), at the output of which there will be 12 V and a current strength suitable for the device.

Advice! A power supply unit from a computer is well suited for this purpose.

You can find out the value of the current consumed by the device by looking at its nameplate. In this case, a power supply from a PC (see the figure above) in terms of current and voltage will be quite enough.

So, if you plug the power cord into your PC's power supply and turn it on, then nothing happens. This is because the power supply unit will not turn on until it receives a signal from the PC. To simulate turning on the PC, on the connector coming out of the PSU, you need insert the jumper. You will need to find one green wire among the many conductors, and the second black one, as shown in the following photo.

These wires can be cut and twisted, but it is better to short them with a jumper.

Since the auto pump has car cigarette lighter plug, then you can cut it off, and connect the device with the corresponding color wires from the power supply unit.

But it will be better if you purchase a car cigarette lighter and connect it to the power supply, and connect the device itself using a standard plug.

There are 3 wires coming out of the cigarette lighter: red - “+”, black - “-” and yellow - “+”, intended for connecting the LED. Connect the wires to the cigarette lighter, observing the polarity (see photo below).

If you insert the plug from the device into the cigarette lighter, you get an electric 220 V air compressor that can not only inflate tires, but also work with an airbrush.

Connecting additional elements

To connect the device to the receiver, it is necessary to assemble the structure shown in the diagram below.

This harness includes the following elements.

1. Crosspiece, having all outputs with BP1 / 2. Marking means: "ВР" - female thread, "1/2" - thread diameter in inches.
2. Tee, has all outputs with НР1 / 2 (“НР” - external thread).
3. Gates in the amount of 2 pcs. (BP1 / 2 - BP1 / 2). Designed to block air movement in both directions. Double marking means that there is an internal thread on both sides of the valve.
4. ... Designed to allow air to pass in only one direction. A simple spring-loaded valve BP1 / 2 - BP1 / 2 can be installed. If you plan to work with a pressure of 6-7 bar, then you must select a non-return valve that does not have plastic parts.
   
   
5. Straight nipple, is an adapter with 2 external threads (HP1 / 2).
6. Reducing nipple HP1 / 2 - HP1 / 4. Allows you to change from one external thread diameter to another.
7. Extension(60 mm) НР1 / 2 - НР1 / 2. This is the same nipple, only straight. That is, the threads at both ends have the same diameter.
8. Reducing coupling... It is an adapter from an internal thread of one diameter to an internal thread with another. In this case, from BP1 / 2 to BP1 / 8.
9. Tee, having all the outputs already with the thread НР1 / 8.
10. Straight coupling BP1 / 8 - BP1 / 8. Has 2 identical internal threads.
11. Hose adapter HP1 / 8.
12. Pressure regulator (pressostat) with moisture-oil separator... The pressure switch allows maintaining the air pressure in the receiver not lower than the minimum and not higher than the maximum allowable level. The dehumidifier does not need to be installed if the unit is to be used as a tire inflation pump. When using the unit for painting, the installation of a moisture-oil separator is a prerequisite.
    
    

    

    The above piping scheme assumes 2 outlet fittings: the first for air outlet to the spray gun (airbrush), and the second for tire inflation.

13. Reducing nipple HP1 / 4 - HP1 / 8.
14. Futorka(НР1 / 4 - ВР1 / 8), is an adapter from a larger external thread diameter to a smaller internal thread diameter.
15. Pressure gauges... These devices allow you to visually control the level of air pressure in the receiver and at the supply to the main.

When assembling all elements, it is necessary use thread sealant, for example, fum tape. Pressure gauges can be connected via high pressure hose cuttings. The latter should be pulled over the adapters and secured with clamps.

The pressure gauges can be screwed directly onto the thread, without using hoses, if you do not need to lead them to the front panel of the unit.

What the compressor piping assembled according to the diagram looks like is shown in the following photo.

A receiver for an autocompressor can be made from a large diameter metal pipe welded on both sides, a fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder. If the compressor is supposed to work only with an airbrush, then a conventional tubeless wheel from a car can serve as a receiver.

Important! When selecting containers for the receiver, one should take into account the fact that the auto-pump can work no more than 10 minutes. continuously. Accordingly, the volume of the receiver should be small (about 20 liters) so that the device can raise the air pressure in it to the required level before 10 minutes have passed.

A simple version of the unit from a fire extinguisher / gas cylinder

Making a compressor with your own hands using a fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder as a storage tank for air is quite simple. For example, the compressor unit itself, if you want to make a powerful unit, you can take from the Zilovsky compressor... But first, it needs to be slightly modified.

Drill 2 holes in each connecting rod (assembled, with bushings) and 1 hole in each connecting rod cap.

When the unit is operating, the oil in the crankcase will flow through these holes to the liners and reduce friction between them and the crankshaft.

If you take for receiver fire extinguisher, then you first need to remove all unnecessary parts from it, leaving only the container itself and the lid.

The cast iron cover should be threaded ¼ ”. Also, under the cast-iron cover, it is necessary to lay a rubber gasket, if it was not there, and screw the cover using fum tape to seal the thread.

The steps to connect all the trim elements were described at the beginning of the article. But, since this unit is made of a ZIL 130 compressor, and is more powerful than the previously considered one, it will be necessary to install a safety (emergency) valve. It will relieve excess pressure if, for some reason, the automation does not work.

You can also do gas cylinder compressor... But first, you need to release gas from the cylinder, and then twist the valve. Next, you need to completely fill the cylinder with water to remove the remaining gas. The cylinder should be rinsed with water several times and, if possible, dried. Usually, a gas burner is installed under the cylinder and all moisture is evaporated from the container.

A foot is screwed into the hole where the valve was placed, and a crosspiece is screwed into it, to which the automation and the entire strapping are attached. A hole must be drilled in the lower part of the cylinder and a condensate drain fitting must be welded to it. An ordinary water tap can be installed on the fitting.

For fastening to the receiver of the engine and the compressor block, metal corner frame. Mounting bolts are pre-welded to the cylinder. The frame will be attached to them (see photo below).

Important! The engine for this unit should have a power of about 1.3-2.2 kW.

You can also make a compressor for inflating tires yourself from a chainsaw that cannot be repaired. The device is made from the engine, that is, from the piston unit: the outlet hose is connected through a check valve instead of the spark plug, and the exhaust hole is closed. Either an electric motor or a conventional electric drill can be used to rotate the crankshaft.

An air compressor made from a refrigerator, or rather, from its unit, is the quietest. But you should know that such an apparatus does not have high performance... With it, you can only inflate the tires of a car or work with an airbrush. For the normal operation of various pneumatic tools (screwdriver, grinder, spray gun, etc.), the performance of this unit is not enough, even if a large-volume receiver is connected to it. Although on the Internet you can find designs consisting of two or three compressors connected in series, connected to a large receiver.

So, the unit removed from the refrigerator has starting relay with power cord... Also, 3 copper pipes come out of the apparatus. Two of them are designed for air inlet and outlet, and the third (sealed) - for oil filling. If you turn on the device for a short time, you can determine which of the two tubes sucks in air, and from which it is blown out.

The following figure shows how to assemble the entire structure, consisting of the unit, receiver and pressure regulator with pressure gauge.

Advice! Instead of a filter at the outlet, which sometimes bursts from high pressure, it is better to install a moisture-oil separator. Its presence is required if the device will be used for painting.

Installed on the inlet tube air filter to prevent dust from entering the inside of the unit. To automate the process of pumping air, you can install automation in the form of a pressure switch.

DIY high pressure compressor

The high pressure compressor (HP) is made from two-stage compressor head AK-150.

As a drive, you can take 380 V motor with a power of 4 kW... The transmission of rotation of the engine shaft to the shaft of the piston group is carried out by means of an eccentric, which also serves as a drive for a plunger-type oil pump. It creates an oil pressure of about 2 kgf / cm 2.

Compressed air, leaving the last stage, enters through an adapter with an installed pressure gauge into the fitting of a liter cylinder, which is installed in its lower part. There is also a condensate drain valve. The balloon is filled with ground glass crumbs and acts as a moisture-oil separator.

Air comes out from the top of the cylinder through the finger fitting. Compressor cooling is waterborne. After 45 min. the operation of the unit, the water heats up to 70 degrees. The author of this unit claims that during this time it is possible to inflate 1 cylinder of 8 liters and 2 cylinders of 4 liters up to 260 atm.

A compressor is a necessary device on the farm. It's not very easy to make it yourself, but you can. And you will need improvised means for this, as well as small things from a building materials store.

Materials (edit)

To create a homemade compressor from a fire extinguisher you will need:

• fire extinguisher ОХП-10 with a volume of 10.5 liters (as a receiver);
• pressure switch PM5, designed for water, but also suitable for air;
• two water separator filters;
• one automobile fuel, fine cleaning;
• adapters;
• crosses;
• reinforced PVC hose with an inner diameter of 10 mm.

All that was included in the set, look at the photo. I also bought a valve (at first I thought that I would regulate the pressure with it, and that it is no different from a reducer).

After I figured out that the valve and the gearbox are still somewhat different things, I bought a gearbox with a pressure gauge, and a separate pressure gauge to measure the pressure inside the receiver. A thin silicone hose was also purchased at a pet store, costing 10 rubles / meter. It is very flexible, lightweight and durable, there is nothing better to connect to an airbrush.

And of course, where without the FUM tape, which is sold in any plumbing store.

Step 1... First of all, we fasten the balloon to the base. We take out all the stuff from the lid, and from the inside of the fire extinguisher, we leave only the balloon itself and the lid.

Step 2... In the hole in the cast iron cover, cut a pipe thread, 1/4 inch. We also wind the FUM tape on the wide thread on the balloon, make a rubber gasket (in theory, I had it, but I did it somewhere, and as a result I cut it out of the camera for the car myself, after construction I found my own) and screw it on cast iron cover.

Step 3... Screw an adapter from 1 / 4HP to 1 / 2HP in. Into the hole in the cover.

Step 5... We screw the pressure switch into the crosspiece through the adapter 1 / 2НР-1 / 4НР, from the side we screw the adapter 1 / 2НР-1 / 2НР.

Step 7... On one side of it, we screw a reducer with a thread of 1 / 4HP through an adapter 1 / 2НР-1 / 4ВР.

Step 8... From the other end, also through the adapter 1 / 2НР-1 / 4ВН, we screw a pressure gauge with a thread of 1 / 4НР. On the opposite side of the crosspiece, screw in a valve (for bleeding air from the cylinder), which has a 1 / 2HP thread.

Step 9... We screw a filter-moisture separator to the gearbox, which has a 1 / 4HP thread and fits directly to the gearbox. The nuance here is that the filter must be properly positioned (observe the top and bottom), and make sure that the drain hole is at the lowest point.

Step 10... Next, we compose the line of another filter, from the side of the inlet there is a 1 / 2ВР fitting, which is connected through an adapter 1 / 2НР-1 / 4ВР, we screw it onto the filter having a 1 / 4НР thread. From the outlet, I was a little clever, because there were unnecessary details, and some of the necessary ones were missing, in the end it turned out like this.

Step 11... An adapter 1 / 4НР-1 / 2НР is screwed into the hole in the 1 / 4ВР filter, a tee is screwed to it (I had an extra one), on one side of which a plug with 1 / 2НР is screwed on, on the other side of the tee opposite to the filter, a fitting is screwed in 1 / 2НР.

ATTENTION: I did it in such a tricky way because there were extra parts so that you would not make this mistake, do so, an adapter 1 / 4HP-1 / 2HP is screwed into the outlet hole, and a fitting for a hose with a 1 / 2BP thread is screwed onto it. The bottom layout will be given for this particular option.

Step 12... Further, to the hole with an external thread of an incomprehensible section and pitch (I could not find it) that comes out of the fire extinguisher as an outlet nozzle, a reinforced hose is ideally suited, which we secure with a clamp on top.

Step 13... At the other end of the hose, insert the filter fitting and also secure it with a clamp.

Step 14... Next, from the inlet filter fitting, we again insert the reinforced hose and bring it to the compressor outlet pipe. How to fix this good there, I think you can think of. I have a tricky system of several gaskets there and everything is clamped on top with a clamp.

Step 15... In conclusion, we screw a 1 / 4HP fitting into the filter outlet 1 / 4BP, on which we sit a silicone tube, which almost ideally sits on it, and does not even require compression with a clamp, the second end of the tube is already to the airbrush.

Since the pressure downstream of the reducer is small compared to the receiver, the tube can withstand it without any effort. At the inlet to the compressor, as I have already said, an automobile filter is installed to clean the air.

As for the oil change, three tubes come out of the compressor. one is inlet, another is outlet, the third is sealed and is for adding oil. So we bite it off with pliers, but make sure that the sawdust does not get inside, otherwise the motor may end.

From there we drain the oil. How much I poured, I honestly did not measure, but something about a glass. I poured back car oil of formula 10W40, with a volume of about 350 grams. Automotive oil is better because, firstly, it has a bunch of additives that protect the engine, and secondly, unlike spindle oil, it does not "absorb" moisture.

What where to buy

1) The compressor from the refrigerator - either screw it on, or buy it from organizations engaged in the repair of refrigerators. How much it can cost there I have no idea, I was not interested.

2) Receiver (fire extinguisher) - obtained at an enterprise or organization, you can write it off, or buy, I heard that the price for this is about 200 rubles

3) Pressure switch - 250 rubles, in a store selling heaters, water pumps, and other plumbing products.

5) Reinforced hose with int. dia. 10 mm. - 55 rubles / meter, I bought two meters at the car market, although one would be enough.

6) Silicone hose - 10 rubles / m, pet store, bought three meters.

7) Air filters-moisture separators - 170 rubles pcs., In the car market, bought a pair.

8) Automotive gasoline filter for fine cleaning - 35 rubles, car market.

9) Cross - 1pc
- Tee - 1pc.
- Valve - 1pc.
- Adapter 1 / 2НР-1 / 2НР - 1pc.
- Adapter 1 / 2НР-1 / 4НР - 3 pcs.
- Adapter 1 / 2НР-1 / 4ВР - 3 pcs.
- fitting 1 / 2ВР - 2 pcs.
- Fitting 1 / 4НР - 1pc.

All this is bought in plumbing stores, and in total it will cost about 500 rubles.

10) Manometer - 1 piece, 90 rubles in a store selling heaters, water pumps, and other plumbing products.

11) Tape FUM - 12 rubles, in any plumbing store.

12) Clamps - 5-10 rubles / piece. 6 pieces (or better 8 just in case), in the car market.

Amount: 1897 rubles.

Agree not so bad! This does not cover screws, bolts, corners, etc. elements with which you will attach the receiver and compressor to the base.

Note: HP is male thread, BP is female thread!

Good day! In this article, using my compressor assembly as an example, I want to show a methodology for building compressors from available parts for model airbrushing.

Main elements

The first step is to formalize the technical requirements for our fruit of goblin engineering.
Since I had purchased a new double action airbrush, a compressor with a receiver was needed. The fact is that, unlike the single action airbrush, the new airbrush is able to control the air flow, block it, and open the air duct. In European countries, many people use such an airbrush together with a separate compressed air cylinder, disposable or reusable; let's leave the economic side of this matter aside. Air tank - receiver- allows you to collect air like a cylinder. If air is continuously pumped into the air duct hose, then at some point the fitting may not withstand and the hose will fly out. To get a blown hose on any part of the body is extremely painful and unpleasant. And so - the airbrush uses air from a cylinder. So, a double-action airbrush implies the use of a receiver. We will return to it later.

The main thing is actually myself compressor... We will be using a compressor from a refrigerator. Type "pot" - because compressors of the "cylinder" type can no longer be found in the daytime with fire, and they are all old. We decide on the choice of a compressor using various sites for the sale of refrigeration equipment. Probably, the main criterion will be their price, since their parameters for air injection are approximately equal. There is more powerful, there is weaker. Upon purchase, you can go to the store yourself, you can order delivery if they do not have a retail store and they only work on the Internet. Before ordering, we look at the compressor model, and write down the name of the company that produces it, using ctrl + c, or on a piece of paper. And we go to the manufacturer's website. The manufacturer of the compressor that I got is Danfoss, from their website you can download a pdf file with a technical description of the compressor. We must download MOT, we will need it!

Let's go back to the receiver. The receiver should be a container made to contain gases or liquids under high pressure. It is desirable that it meet the requirements of GOST. I'll make a reservation right away - a plastic bottle, plastic tanks, tanks and cans DO NOT belong to such things. Their use is a flagrant violation of safety precautions! Consider capacities:

Option one- carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. A good option, tested, holds up to 10 atm. Very wide range of capacities - 3.5.10 liters. - it is enough just to get it (you can buy it, you can get it "exhausted"). However, it has one significant drawback - the metric thread at the entrance. This is what I used.

Option two- hydraulic accumulator. Decent selection of capacity, however low operating pressure. At the entrance there is a convenient 1 inch thread. It requires fine-tuning before use, since it is divided inside into a membrane containing carbon dioxide, which holds water under pressure. It must be pulled out. Get it - just buy it in a construction hypermarket or on the construction market.

Option three- oxygen balloon. Some samples can hold a huge amount of atmospheres, however, either cylinders with an extremely small capacity or heavy, massive ones for welding are available, and it is extremely difficult to get other options. But if you get some of the medical equipment (I'm afraid it's very expensive ), you can arrange an oxygen bar before assembly !!! =)))

Option four- cylinders for various gases (propane, etc.) - easy to get, otherwise similar to a fire extinguisher. However, it is written on them that the use of compressed air is not recommended.

Connecting links between gearbox and receiver, air preparation unit

Now that the compressor and what will be the receiver have been identified, you need to think about how they will be connected, and how the compressed air will flow to the airbrush.
The first is the unit that is attached directly to the receiver and provides air distribution between the lines (it should be mentioned that one of its main characteristics is compatibility with the connector on the receiver, I will mention the screwing methods later).
The second is a pressure switch. The pressure switch must ensure that the compressor turns off when a certain pressure in the receiver is reached, and turns it on when the pressure drops to a minimum value. As a pressure switch - the best option is the RDM-5 relay for water supply systems. It is very easy to find and is sold in most plumbing stores. It is necessary to pay attention - the RDM-5 connecting element is designed for an external thread of 1 inch.

Third, an indication of the pressure in the receiver is required. We buy a pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 10 atm. These have a connection size 1. Important - you need a static device.

The fourth is the air preparation unit. The hose leading to the airbrush requires a certain amount of pressure. Hence, a reducer is needed. The reducer must have a pressure regulation limit from zero to 8-10 atmospheres. Also, it is necessary that a pressure gauge is attached to it in order to see the value of the regulated pressure, as well as an oil separator filter. Since, even from the receiver, particles of compressor oil can fly. Attention - in no case buy a filter-lubricator - it performs a diametrically opposite function.

Fifth - consumables, fittings, bends, tees. The main size of the fittings is 1 inch, in order to calculate their number, it is necessary to build a diagram of the air distribution and preparation unit. In addition to them, we will need several adapters from 1 to 1 inch, external and internal.
Having looked at all the parts and assemblies, we will make a drawing of how it will all look in assembly, for example, like this:

Now let's think about placing the whole structure. As an option - ordinary chipboard plates. In order not to carry the entire structure around the garage workshop with matyuga, we will provide roller legs, which are easy to find in any furniture store. So that the installation does not take up much space, I decided to place everything on two floors. To make it easier to work in the future, we will draw the following scheme:

You will need either very long M8 bolts or short studs. As well as nuts and washers.
Now, to summarize the planning stage, we will write a list of the required materials.

• Compressor - 1 pc.
• Receiver (fire extinguisher) 1 pc.
• Pressure switch - 1 pc.
• Manometer - 1 pc.
• Filter reducer - 1 pc.
• Emergency valve -1pc.
• Fittings, adapters - based on the selected scheme
• Various plumbing gaskets, fum tape, sealant.
• Cables, switch, plug + various little things for laying and connecting them.
• Flexible hose (preferably oil-resistant) with a diameter that matches the outer diameter of the air outlet of the compressor.
• Chipboard - plate for the stand, 4 roller legs, 4 M8x25 bolts or M8 studs, nuts, washers and other small hardware, as well as various tools.

Let's start assembling!

Compressor assembly

So, the bustle of the shops is over, the diagram has been drawn, we are starting a twist =). The first difficulty I encountered was the fire extinguisher outlet assembly. There are several options here - dismantle the assembly, and find a welded master to weld the required fitting adapter. Due to haste, I did not want to look for someone, so I did it simply - unscrew part of the valve (leaving the internal mechanics, removed the control element). An adapter with a 1-inch female thread came up to one of the outputs, into the other with a creak I screwed in an adapter from 1 to 38. In all honesty, this (and actually like the entire receiver) was done in violation of the rules for operating pressure vessels. It is better to weld a new adapter with high quality (which, of course, is also not quite according to the rules ...).

The first stage of assembling the compressor is simple - we arm ourselves with a water pipe wrench, fum tape, sealant (attention, it later freezes - if you want to do it for ages - do not regret it!), And we twist the adapters according to the plan outlined in advance. An important note - in order to ensure a tight connection, it is not necessary to wrap everything "to a squeak" - according to the law of meanness - the tees and turns will never come to the desired angle. We mount a reducer, a pressure gauge, a pressure switch, an adapter for a flexible hose. Each stage of the process must certainly be accompanied by fitting to the receiver-fire extinguisher.

Carpenter versus joiner

"A viper with wheels here ku!"
kf "Kin-dza-dza"

The second stage of the assembly is carpentry work. I took ready-made chipboard plates “from stocks” and screwed furniture wheels on self-tapping screws to them, having previously drilled the seats for them with a thin drill (this way they are screwed in exactly in place and much easier). Be sure to ride the newly made product around the apartment (you must check it out! =)) - attention and an interested reaction from your family is guaranteed (from the category of harmful advice, and here it would be worth leaving the postmark "never repeat this yourself"). Since I was making a two-level stand, the next step was to mark and drill holes for the studs. Approximately in the middle of each stud I screwed on the nuts, measured the perforated tape with a margin (so that it turned out to be a "bed" for the fire extinguisher) and set the latter on the place intended for it.
Attention!!! Be sure to cover all the bite-off places of the punched tape with electrical tape or other soft material to avoid the possibility of injury, or process so that no sharp edges and burrs remain.

After positioning the fire extinguisher, I put two more perforated tapes on top and fixed them with nuts.
If you use a prepared hydroaccumulator as a receiver, then most of the small (5, 6, 8 liters) models of the "horizontal" type have wonderful brackets-legs from below and from above. The lower ones can be screwed to the base, and the compressor can be placed on the upper ones.

In my case, which I am using as an example, the structure consists of two levels. The "second floor" of the structure must be prepared before installation. We find suitable holes on the compressor legs (there are many of them), and, keeping the geometry, mark and drill them on the "second floor". It's okay if the holes are slightly larger than the diameter of the bolts (I used M8), wherever I needed I used wide washers. We mount the plate of the "second floor", looking at the diagram, which we talked about in the first part.
We install the compressor. In order to reduce vibration, it is necessary to provide some damping elements. I adapted ordinary sanitary silicone gaskets as them, constructing a semblance of a shock absorber out of them. We fix the compressor, do not forget to put the washers.

We try on the air distribution module for the receiver. If something abuts, or is simply unsuccessfully located, the design can be changed. After fitting - we fasten it. Using a flexible hose, fum tape and clamps, we connect the outlet of the compressor and the inlet of the air preparation unit. The clamps must be tightened well, ensuring a snug fit of the hose - on the compressor side, otherwise oil may be poisoned and splashed, and on the side of the air distribution module, air may be vented, respectively.

I sing the electric body. Finishing touches and ...

"Mahmoud, set it on fire!"
Kf "White Sun of the Desert"

First, a little theory about the engine used by the compressor. The compressor, which we are considering as an example, uses a single-phase asynchronous machine as a drive. Therefore, in order to run it, different auxiliary devices are needed. In our case, this is a starting winding with a capacitor. Read the instructions for the compressor carefully! The types of devices used to start the drive can vary greatly from model to model.
Now the most basic thing - you need to work with the installation wiring diagram. There are several pitfalls here:

1. The compressor is torn out of the normal wiring diagram. For it to work, you need to install a jumper.
2. It is advisable to provide protective elements (a circuit breaker) - a controversial issue, in principle, in case of any excesses, the machine should work on the group of outlets to which the compressor is connected - it is not necessary to put another machine on, in my opinion.
3. The connection line must necessarily go through a relay and a switch.
4. Sometimes it is necessary to connect a condenser to the compressor. It depends on its type. Be sure to check the specifications and manual for the compressor you are using.

The connection must be carried out according to the following scheme:

From the plug-plug we lead the phase wire (L) to the switch. Next, we connect the phase wire to the desired relay terminal. The neutral wire (N) remains intact, if there is a ground wire, if there is no ground wire, we put a neutral wire to the relay ground terminal (a protective zeroing is obtained), from the relay we lead the phase and neutral wires to the compressor drive starter (a box like this it on the case), and according to the diagram we connect to the corresponding terminals. It turns out something like this:

General view of the connection diagram. RDM-5 relay connection diagram. Please note - we use the L1 terminal to connect the phase, as well as the corresponding terminal on the top block - from it the wire will go to the compressor. L2 is not used! Also, in no case do not connect the pads to each other - then the relay will not work.

From a regular plug (cable 2.5 mm2), through a switch, to a pressure switch (where it is marked where to connect) and to the compressor. The cable at the plug can be of two types - with ground, phase and zero, if your house is new, or simply with phase and zero, if the house is old. In principle, it is possible not to steam up, and to bring the earth to the neutral conductor, as is done in old houses.
So, now, for the system to work, we will install a jumper. It is installed directly on the terminal block of the starter. the best is a solder connection, but you can use a suitable type of crimp contacts (they are indicated in the description of the compressor). The jumper is shown in blue:

Jumper connection diagram in the starting device.
This jumper is very important, since it provides the connection of the windings to the phase.
At the end, we will neatly lay the cables using plastic ties and self-adhesive pads for them. Inspect the cables carefully for insulation integrity and check each connection for mechanical strength. Check carefully for any potential for short circuits - each wire must be carefully stripped and have contact only with the terminal intended for it.

Now - check everything, run it, and start painting the models! =)

In contact with

It is very easy to make the smallest compressor for an airbrush. For these purposes, you will need a small air compressor, as well as a container in which air under pressure will accumulate, in other words, a receiver. For this homemade product, the author used a compressor from a refrigerator as a compressor. As for the receiver, the OHP-10 fire extinguisher was perfect for these purposes, the volume of which, when measured, turned out to be 10.5 liters instead of the declared 8.5 liters, the fire extinguisher was obtained practically free of charge. The home-made author cost no more than 2,000 rubles.

DIY materials and tools:
- fire extinguisher ОХП-10 or other suitable;
- pressure switch PM5;
- two filters, water separator;
- one fuel filter;
- Reinforced PVC hose (inner diameter 10 mm);
- a reducer with a pressure gauge;
- pressure gauge for measuring the pressure inside the receiver;
- FUM tape;
- pliers, wrenches and other tools.

Airbrush making process:

Step one. Fire extinguisher preparation
The first step is to empty the contents of the fire extinguisher. This should be done in an open area.
Now you get an empty bottle, you need to screw it to the base. This process will not be difficult for anyone.
Remove all contents from the cover, including the fire extinguisher. As a result, the balloon and the cap should remain.

Step two. Assembling homemade products
In the cast iron cover, you need to cut 1/4 inch pipe threads. On the wide thread of the cylinder, you need to wind the FUM tape for tightness, and also make a rubber gasket if your own is lost or damaged. It can be made from a car camera. Well, then the cast-iron lid is screwed on.

Then a 1 / 4HP to 1 / 2HP in. Adapter is screwed into the hole in the cover. Then you need to screw on the 1/2 inch cross. Of course, all connections must be sealed with FUM tape.

A pressure switch must be screwed into the adapter with 1 / 2НР-1 / 4НР, and an adapter 1 / 2НР-1 / 2НР is screwed on the side.

The author screws the tee on the side.

Subsequently, a reducer is screwed to the tee using an adapter 1 / 2НР-1 / 4ВР, it has a thread 1 / 4НР.

On the other hand, again through an adapter 1 / 2НР-1 / 4ВН, a pressure gauge is screwed on, it also has a 1 / 4НР thread. From the opposite side of the cylinder, it is necessary to screw in the valve; with the help of it, air will be released from the cylinder. The valve has a 1 / 2HP thread.

A water separator filter must be connected to the gearbox; here a 1 / 4HP thread is used. It is important to install the filter at the correct angle. The drain hole should be at the lowest point.

Then you need to make a line of another filter. On the side of the inlet opening there is a 1 / 2ВР nipple connected through an adapter 1 / 2НР-1 / 4ВР. It must be screwed onto the filter, which has a 1 / 4HP thread. You can see what should be the result in the photo.

An adapter 1 / 4НР-1 / 2НР must be screwed into the 1 / 4ВР filter hole, and then a tee is screwed to it. On one side, the tee is muffled with a 1 / 2HP plug, and on the opposite side, a 1 / 2HP fitting is screwed in.

Step three. The final stage of assembly
Now you need to take a reinforced hose and screw it onto the fitting coming out of the fire extinguisher, which acts as a nozzle. The hose is secured with a hose clamp. On the other hand, a fitting from the filter is inserted into the hose, it is also fastened with a clamp.

After that, the hose is again connected to the filter and connected to the compressor tube. Everything is pulled together with clamps.

At the final stage, a similar fitting must be screwed into the outlet of the 1 / 4BP filter. a silicone tube fits perfectly on it, which does not even need to be fixed with a clamp. Well, the other end connects directly to the airbrush.

Due to the fact that the pressure behind the reducer is small, when compared with the receiver, the tube can withstand it without any problems.

Using a 12 Volt compressor, you can inflate tires, remove debris and dust, blow (clean) lattice elements, inflate balls, supply compressed air to a spray gun, etc.
If the compressor is equipped with a receiver, then its mode of operation will be facilitated. After all, such a capacity creates a supply of compressed air, which allows you to take breaks in the operation of the compressor.

At the same time, the quality of the supplied air will increase, since the receiver equalizes the pressure, smooths out pulsations, cools the compressed air coming from the compressor, and collects condensate.

Necessary accessories

Our installation will consist of two main parts: a compressor and a receiver - a fire extinguisher body. For safe and reliable operation of the device, it is important that the pressure generated by the compressor (140 psi ≈ 10 bar ≈ 10 kg / cm 2) is not higher than the pressure for which the fire extinguisher body is designed (20 bar ≈ 20 kg / cm 2).

To create an installation operating in automatic mode, we need the following accessories:

• shut-off unit on the receiver with a threaded channel system;
• safety valve;
• pressure gauge with a scale in bars;
• switch-pressure switch;
• valve in the form of a ball valve;
• spiral and linear hoses;
• pneumatic gun;
• 12 volt battery;
• fittings, unions and adapters.

To assemble individual units into a single whole, we will need:

• wrenches and pliers;
• drill and crimper (tool for crimping wire ends);
• hacksaw and scissors;
• O-rings and FUM tape;
• knitting wire and double-sided tape;
• a piece of plastic pipe.

Making a receiver from a fire extinguisher case for a 12 V compressor

It is better to choose a fire extinguisher with a large volume under the receiver. In this case, its efficiency when working in tandem with a compressor will be higher.
Next, we unscrew the shut-off valve with a hose, shake out its contents from the body (usually this is a substance based on ammonium phosphates, as the cheapest, but there may be other compositions).

Then we rinse the inside of the fire extinguisher body with clean water several times. Wipe the outside of the container with a clean cloth and dry the inside with a hair dryer.

Receiver complete set

Before this stage of work, we once again compare the characteristics of the compressor and the former body of the fire extinguisher, and make sure that our receiver will match the capabilities of the compressor in all respects.

We screw a locking assembly with a central channel and four side threaded holes into the neck of the metal container.

Screw the safety valve into one of the side channels, adjusting it to a lower opening pressure.

From the two available pressure gauges, select the one that is graduated in pressure units of bar, and also screw it into the other side channel on the shut-off assembly.

We screw an adapter and a pressure switch into the two remaining channels - the main element of the automation system, which turns on the compressor when the pressure in the receiver becomes less than the operating pressure.

From above, we screw the ball valve for supplying compressed air from the receiver or its overlap into the shut-off unit.

Then, using a set of rubber rings, FUM-tape and keys, we seal and strengthen the joints of all elements with the locking unit and the last one with the case of the future receiver.

It remains to screw on the ball valve, also using an O-ring and FUM-tape, an adapter for installing a spiral hose, at the other end of which a tool powered by compressed air will be attached through the same adapter (we have a pneumatic gun).

Compressor piping

We first check its performance by connecting it to a 12-volt battery, and make sure that everything is in order with it.
We put on an adapter for a hose on the outlet connection of the compressor. We seal with FUM tape and firmly tighten the hex connector with the keys.

We install the compressor on the receiver in the place where it will later be fixed. We cut off the outlet hose with scissors, leaving a small branch on which we put on a plastic rectangular fitting. It is necessary to give the desired direction to the hose, which will come out of it, and connect to the adapter on the receiver. Between the last two parts, a hex connector cuts into the hose - it is also a check valve.

Installing the compressor on the receiver

We glue strips of double-sided tape on the supporting surfaces of the compressor base. This will pre-fix the nodes relative to each other, and subsequently contribute to the strength of the connection.
Then, using pliers and knitting wire, which we pass through the holes in the base, we firmly screw the compressor to the receiver.

Manufacturing of the support part of the installation

To do this, you need a piece of plastic pipe that is comparable in size to the outer diameter of the receiver. Using a hacksaw, cut off three rings of equal width from the pipe.

We make a cross cut in two rings so that they can be put on the receiver. Cut the third ring into two equal parts. They, in fact, will be the "legs" of our installation.

In two rings at points diametrically opposite to the cuts, we drill holes with a drill. We do the same in the half rings in their center.
We connect in pairs the rings with half rings by means of screws and a drill, screwing the hardware from the side of the split full ring.
On the inside of the split rings, covering the screw heads, we glue a strip of double-sided tape to fix the rings on the receiver body from below.

We install the rings on the receiver, unclenching them along the cut. For the strength of fixing the rings on the surface of the receiver, under each end of the ring, starting from the cut and below, we also glue a strip.

Receiver pressure selection and relay setting

After connecting the hoses and turning on the compressor, we check the pressure build-up in the receiver using the pressure gauge and the unit's performance using a pneumatic gun with the power off. Bleed the pressure in the receiver using the safety valve by pulling on the ring on the stem.

We cut one core of the wire from the compressor and connect its ends to the pressure switch using tips and a crimper. We turn on the compressor again and make sure that the pressure in the receiver rises.