When performing carpentry and locksmith work, an appropriate tool is usually used, developed for specific tasks. However, there are situations when it is much more convenient and easier to use special machines. They allow you to optimize the process and save time with the same type of work. Therefore, questions about how to make a drilling machine from a drill very often arise from modern craftsmen.

Necessity or luxury

First of all, it should be said that it is very convenient to use such a device when making holes in small horizontal planes. It almost completely relieves the drill from the backlash, which necessarily occurs during manual work. Even a small drilling machine from a drill significantly increases the accuracy of the hole being drilled, minimizing the error. Also, such equipment saves a lot of time and effort if you need frequent use or monotonous work.

Almost all enterprises that carry out locksmith work are equipped with such units. The fact is that research in the field of labor protection has shown an increase in productivity and quality improvement when using them. Some of them even purchase a magnetic drilling machine to optimize production on large planes without the use of expensive equipment.

Why a drill?

Currently, there are many designs for creating such equipment at home. However, most experts recommend making a drilling machine from a drill. This is due to the fact that this tool already completely contains all the necessary components and assemblies, and they do not have to be purchased separately. In this case, the fixation on the structure is performed so that the drill can be easily removed for independent work. As a result, we do not lose a tool that we can use on our own.

In order to create a drilling machine from a drill with your own hands, you need to purchase the tool itself. It is selected in accordance with the parameters that the finished device will have to have. At the same time, experts advise paying attention to products that have their own small backlash. Otherwise, the feasibility of using it for work is questioned. You may also need:

• Guides. They use systems used in furniture production, or metal strips.
• Stanina. Most often it is made from a metal plate or a wooden box, on which magnets or ballast are attached for weighting.
• Fasteners. When they make a drilling machine from a drill with their own hands, they immediately select couplings or clamps suitable for fixing a specific tool.
• Wood or metal structures - depending on what material is to be processed.
• Spring required for reverse travel.
• If a drilling machine with a magnetic base is to be created, then the magnets themselves will be needed.

Tool

In this case, the selection of the used tool depends on the material for creating the frame. However, it should be noted right away that a corner for measuring the connection of elements at 90 degrees will be necessary in any case. Even a mini-drilling machine in its manufacture requires high precision, since this will subsequently affect the quality of the holes being made.

First of all, you need to decide on the design of the final product and the material for its manufacture. However, there is no need to come up with too complex technical solutions or expensive components. A typical drawing of a drill from a drill is quite simple. It involves the creation of a solid and stable base on which a vertical tripod with a movable carriage is mounted. Considering this, special attention should be paid to the implementation of the movement of the drill in the vertical plane, although the use of ready-made guides greatly simplifies this process. If you use a microscope stand, a photomagnifier or a press as a frame, the drawing will be based on their base, and the entire manufacturing process is greatly simplified.

Bed and tripod

Even a mini drill press needs a stable base. It must not only hold the entire structure, but can be equipped with various elements for fixing tools or other devices. Thinking over the device of the drilling machine, it is worth listening to the advice of experts. Many craftsmen recommend creating these devices from wood. Therefore, a wooden frame in the form of a small box is used for the bed. It has seats for installing a vice or other structures. If the product is planned to be used on large surfaces, then the bed is made of a solid plate with a hole for a drill. This is how the principle of drilling through can be realized.

Almost any device of a drilling machine involves the installation of a vertical tripod at an angle of 90 degrees to the bed. Therefore, it is very important to use an accurate measuring tool in your work. You also need to securely fix the tripod using additional mounts in the form of corners.

If the work involves drilling holes at a certain angle, then certain devices can be made in advance that will be attached to the bed. Most often, in such cases, they use ready-made ball vices with an adjustable angle of inclination.

Creation of a movement mechanism

When a homemade drilling machine is made from a drill, then this stage must be given special attention. The fact is that the vertical stroke should be soft, without distortions, backlash or displacements. Taking this into account, professional craftsmen recommend using ready-made guides in their work, which can be taken from other devices. You can also use systems made for pulling out drawers near cabinet furniture. They are quite reliable and can withstand heavy loads.

The guides are installed directly on a tripod or special strips attached to it. In this work, it is very important to use a measuring tool, since these elements must also be positioned at an angle of 90 degrees in relation to the bed and parallel to each other. Even slight distortions or displacements should not be allowed.

The second part of the guides is fixed on a special carriage, where the drill itself will be installed. It is made of wood and adjusted to the dimensions of the original tool. Also, a small handle is attached to the carriage, with which the operator will control the movement process.

To implement the return movement and facilitate the control of the carriage travel, a spring is installed on the machine. One end of it is fixed at the top of the tripod, and the other is mounted on a movable mechanism. At the same time, the level of its tension is immediately checked, which, if necessary, can be changed by cutting the turns or stretching them. However, this adjustment is best done under load, which means that it is performed only after fixing it to the drill carriage. Some craftsmen recommend making the spring removable, it could be removed after work. So it will not stretch and weaken.

Fixing the drill

Usually, instructions on how to make a drilling machine out of a drill recommend creating special fastening systems that are ultimately very difficult to work with. However, if the tool is selected correctly, it can be secured using conventional plumbing clamps used to create a hose-to-pipe connection. In this case, you will need to make certain changes to the shape of the carriage or even slightly tweak the drill body.

It is very important that the tool is clamped tightly and moves in the clamp. Therefore, even at the stage of manufacturing the carriage, practically no free space is left for it, limiting it from all sides structurally. In fact, the carriage itself is a kind of bed for the drill, in which it will sit very tightly. Additional elements are needed only for the reliability of fixation. This approach will greatly simplify the design and allow you to quickly remove the tool if necessary.

Given the material outlined above, we can conclude that a drilling machine from a drill can be made independently and without large financial costs. In this case, the final product will be maximally adapted to the implementation of specific technical tasks and will be able to satisfy the corresponding requests of the end user. However, it is worth considering the fact that factory designs usually have less error and are able to perform precise work with a minimum tolerance. Therefore, such devices are usually suitable for private use or in small workshops where high precision holes are not required.

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We do a circular saw and other machines from a drill with our own hands

Sometimes there is a need to saw a fairly solid board into several planks. Such work cannot be done manually, but buying a factory circular machine for the sake of a single case is unprofitable. There is a very simple way out - a small circular is made from an ordinary drill.

Design

It is better to make the machine small in order to put it on the shelf when there is no need for it. Its construction is extremely simple:

• base from a thick board or a piece of chipboard;
• working surface;
• racks;
• shaft with a circular saw;
• electric drive in the form of a drill.

We make the base from a sheet of chipboard with a thickness of 30 mm, it is enough to cut out a piece of 300x250 mm in size. For desktop choose a sheet of duralumin with a thickness of 4 mm - it is quite tough and light so as not to make the whole structure heavier. In the right place we make a hole for a circular saw with a size of about 160x10 mm.

The holder for the drill itself can be made independently - all the necessary dimensions and drawings are available on the Internet, but a similar design for a shaft with a saw can be purchased in a store or at a clothing market. The bearing for the shaft must be selected dustproof- when the homemade machine works, there will be a lot of small waste in the form of wood dust.

A circular saw from a drill is assembled according to the standard scheme: first, all the parts are fixed on the base, then the desktop is mounted and the drill is connected.

Security measures

When working on any machine, the following rules must be strictly followed:

• the place of the upcoming work must be freed from unnecessary materials and tools;
• workpieces are fed smoothly without jerks and distortions so that the cutting tool does not jam;
• the plane of rotation of the circular saw must be limited from above by a special protective cover ;
• the machine must be kept clean and cleaned after each use;
• if the mini-sawmill is not used for a long time, then lubricate all metal parts with machine oil.

This small machine can cut more than just wood planks. If you install special cutters on it, you can machine parts made of brass and other non-ferrous metals, plastic or propylene.

Other homemade machines

Many users are interested in what else can be done with the help of improvised tools from a drill with their own hands? There are many answers - home craftsmen are already making various homemade drills in garage workshops. A drill is a versatile tool, so with a certain skill and imagination, you can make whatever your heart desires.

1. Sharpener... you just need to purchase emery in the form of a circle and make a special holder in which the drill is attached.
2. Boringmachine- there are special holders for vertical drilling or stand.
3. Turningmachine small size for wood processing.
4. Mini drill for the various needs of the DIYer.
5. To easily mow the grass around the infield, you can do it yourself drill trimmer .
6. Drill grinder it is done quickly, it is enough to buy specific nozzles.
7. Garage auto repairmen install original winches for replacing engines based on old, very powerful tools.
8. Gardeners make holes for planting young trees using a homemade drill from a drill .
9. When pouring the foundation for a utility room in the private sector, some users use a homemade vibrator... made from a drill to quickly compact a concrete structure.

Original devices

The list of homemade products can be continued indefinitely, but we'd better tell you in more detail about some homemade machines that can be made from any model of a drill.

A drill from a drill is not a fantasy, but a real and rather versatile machine, assembled by yourself. The main thing is to order from Chinese engineers (if you could not find it in your city) flexible shaft from a standard medical unit... As a result, a drill appears in your arsenal, which can be used for engraving work or drilled with special drills in small parts or structures that cannot be approached with a standard drill.

Lathe

A woodworking or home lathe can easily be made on the basis of a drill. The tool must be fixed with special clamps rather rigidly, insert a special design into the chuck derzhak with several sharp pins that keep the workpiece from turning. The center of the rear holder (headstock) and the retainer in front of the homemade lathe should be located on the same axis. Precision is essential to prevent runout while the workpiece is rotating. After installing the part, tailstock firmly fixed with a special clip.

The third element of the machine is handyman in the form of a wooden block on which a chisel or other tool for processing a workpiece will rest.

Important! When working on a lathe, do not forget about safety, be sure to wear protective goggles, the sleeves of clothing should fit snugly around your forearms.

Turning The woodworking machine will work properly if the drill has a built-in electronic speed control. By testing, you determine the optimum rotation rate for efficient woodworking. On such a woodworking device, you can make unique products for household needs: for example, a rolling pin or pestle with a mortar, a candlestick or a prefabricated candelabrum.

An original winch based on an old, but powerful drill will become an indispensable assistant in the household, especially for those users who live in their own home and have a personal plot. A simple situation: in a summer shower, you decided to install a more voluminous container, but raising it to such a height is problematic for one. Using a winch, this can be done within minutes. It is only necessary to first calculate the weight of the container and the spindle rotation speed.

According to garage craftsmen, a home-made winch easily lifts the engine from a car. Watch the video if you don't believe the word:

Experts advise using a homemade device, installing the drill on the most minimum speed... Such a design can move objects with different masses, because craftsmen make winches even on the basis of an ordinary starter from a car.

How to make a drilling machine with your own hands

It is advisable to make a drilling machine with your own hands in those situations when in a home workshop or garage it becomes necessary to drill holes in parts of various configurations, as well as made of different materials. It should be noted that such a device makes it possible to obtain holes with a sufficiently high level of quality.

One of the options for the homemade drilling machine

When you need a homemade drilling machine

In manufacturing or repair enterprises, where the drilling operation is considered the most common, a special device is used to perform it, the models of which can have different functionality. So, it can be a compact benchtop drilling machine, characterized by the simplest design, or equipment equipped with several working spindles and numerical control.

The main structural elements of a homemade machine

For drilling holes in various materials, which is performed in a home workshop or garage, you can use equipment made by yourself. Naturally, for home use, you need a simple device that can be made from components and materials found in almost any garage or home workshop.

And in this article we will not leave unanswered the question of how to make a drilling machine at home, while spending a minimum of funds. The drawings and experience of many masters who have already gone this way will help us in this.

The need for such mini drilling equipment for metal, wood or plastic most often arises for those who are used to independently performing various repair work in their house or apartment. Also, quite often, radio amateurs are puzzled by the construction of miniature drilling machines.

It would seem that an ordinary drill can be used to perform such an operation, but such a tool is not always able to provide the required quality and accuracy of drilling operations. Homemade drilling machine. besides its compactness, it has one more important quality: it can be used for various types of drills.

Simple mini drilling machine for small jobs

Drilling machine from a conventional drill

To make a small but functional drilling machine for your home workshop, you do not need to purchase special materials and components. The design of such a convenient and useful desktop device contains the following components:

• the base, which is also called the bed;
• a mechanism that ensures the rotation of the working tool (a conventional drill can be used as such a mechanism);
• device for providing feeding;
• a vertical stand on which the rotation mechanism is fixed.

Diagram of a homemade machine from a drill

The stand on which the drill will be mounted can be made from a chipboard sheet. This material is quite capable of supporting the weight of such a device. The bed of such a mini machine should be more massive, since it protects the entire structure from vibrations, which can adversely affect both the quality and accuracy of the hole obtained, and the comfort of work.

As a material for the bed of such a drilling and filler machine, you can use a regular furniture board, the thickness of which is more than 2 cm. It is most convenient to use the base of an old photo enlarger for this, slightly modifying its design. Sometimes an old microscope is used, but this is a rather rare option, since such an assembly will not be large enough and its use will be limited.

Drilling machine from a school microscope

What quality and accuracy a homemade drilling machine will provide depends mainly on how correctly and reliably the connection of its base and vertical rack is made. Important elements of such a micro machine are two guides along which the block with a drill fixed to it will move. These rails are best made from two strips of steel, which must be securely screwed to the rack with screws.

When making a block, it is advisable to use steel clamps that will securely fix the drill on it. In addition, in order to avoid unwanted vibration processes during drilling, a thick rubber gasket must be installed at the junction of the shoe and the drill.

After that, you need to make a feed mechanism for such a mini machine, which should ensure the movement of the electric drill in the vertical direction. The schemes for the manufacture of such a mechanism may be different, but it traditionally contains a lever and a spring in its design, which is attached at one end to the rack, and at the other end to the block with a drill. This spring makes the feed mechanism more rigid.

A drilling machine from a drill, which is not planned to be removed from it, can be made more convenient in operation if you disassemble the drill's own switch and mount a separate button on the bed of the mini equipment. Such a button will always be at your fingertips and will allow you to quickly turn on and off the device. As you can see, a drilling machine from a drill is not at all difficult to make, for this it is quite enough to carefully read these instructions or watch the training videos in this article.

An example of a drill from a drill in more detail

As an example, consider in more detail one of the options for a homemade drilling machine from a drill. collected at home.

Self-assembled drilling machine from a drill

Making a machine tool using an asynchronous motor

The absence of an extra electric drill on the farm is not a reason to abandon the idea of ​​making a drilling machine with your own hands. Any electric motor can be used to drive the rotation mechanism of such equipment. Such engines, which were previously installed on various equipment, will certainly be found in the garage or workshop of any home craftsman.

Asynchronous motors, which are equipped with washing machines, are best suited for the manufacture of a mini drilling machine. If you have such a motor, you can confidently use it to make home drilling equipment. Making drilling equipment with such an engine at home is somewhat more difficult than using a drill, but the power of such a machine will be much higher.

Given the fact that an induction motor weighs more than a conventional drill, you will need a more powerful base and stand to accommodate the feeder.

In order for such a mini drilling and filler machine to vibrate less during operation, it is necessary to install the engine on a strong base and place it as close to the rack as possible. But here it is important to maintain the correct distance, since the convenience of mounting the belt drive depends on it, due to which the rotation from the engine will be transmitted to the drilling head.

In order for you to be able to make such a machine at home, you will need the following structural elements:

• gear;
• the hex on which the pulley will be put on;
• two bearings;
• tubes in the amount of two pieces, one of which must be with an internal thread;
• clamping ring, which must be made of solid steel.

The hexagon also connects to the metal tube, bearing and clamping ring. Such a connection must be very reliable so that the resulting unit does not collapse during operation.

Drilling machine with asynchronous motor

The mechanism necessary to ensure the supply of the tool in such a mini machine should consist of a tube, on which cuts are made, and gears. The tube will move by connecting its teeth to these cuts. In this tube, the height of which must correspond to the value of the required feed of the tool, then an axle with a hexagon is pressed in.

An example of a drilling machine with an asynchronous motor

Consider one of the very serious options for a homemade drilling machine with an asynchronous motor, clearly made by no beginner. Few home craftsmen take the risk of taking on such a project, but if, as they say, itchiness, then nothing is impossible.

Difficult to manufacture homemade machine with an asynchronous motor

It is quite obvious that it is quite difficult to manufacture such a machine, and then it is even more difficult to ensure the accuracy of its operation. Therefore, the best option is to use an electric drill to make a home drilling machine.

Finally, we suggest watching a couple more videos in which the craftsmen demonstrate their homemade drilling machines. These videos once again prove that it is always possible to assemble the necessary equipment with your own hands, although sometimes it is not easy.

Homemade drilling machine from a drill

It does not always make sense and expediency to buy a factory-made drilling machine. You can make a vertical drilling machine from a drill with your own hands. This will require a drill and materials to make the rack. Such equipment is recommended for use in home workshops or garages, when drilling is not the main operation or is performed quite rarely and the accuracy of the hole can be neglected.

To speed up the process, it is enough to buy a specialized drill stand at a tool store. The result is a semblance of a domestic-level vertical drilling machine, which is not inferior in drilling accuracy to machines for home workshops.

The photo shows the factory-made drill stands. They can be purchased at any online tool store for prices starting at $ 200.

The article is intended to give you ideas on how to make a drilling machine yourself from a drill, so we do not give a clear algorithm for its manufacture, because it is made from scrap materials: some masters will have it, others will not. Therefore, we give basic ideas, and everyone will apply their design solutions and make their own vertical homemade drilling machine.

If you are not looking for easy ways, then we will make a homemade stand. The stand can be made of wood or metal. Wood will be cheaper, easier to manufacture, but durability will suffer.

Metallic ones are more complex, but they do not have a comparatively longer service life and strength characteristics. The choice of the rack material also depends on the workpieces being processed: with constant drilling of metal, it is better to make metal.

Assembling the machine

The metal stands are assembled from the corners for the carriage, a 50 × 50 square tube for the stand and 10 × 10 for the bracket for the drill, strip for the base and lugs. The base and bracket are welded together, after which all elements are assembled and bolted together. It is recommended to make several brackets with different adapters (clamping rings) for different types of drills. The carriage moves along the bar with a steel cable wound around the handle drum. So that the carriage does not have a backlash and does not fall down under its own weight, it is drilled, a thread is cut and a bolt (or several bolts) is tightened. Thus, the backlash between the carriage and the stand of the future drilling machine is selected. The handle for moving the carriage is made from rolled products with a diameter of 6 - 8 mm.

With several brackets with different clamping rings, it is possible to flexibly select drills and process almost any material.

In the future, self-made equipment can be upgraded and modified, for example, mark or install a scale that will indicate the length of the carriage movement. This helps when drilling blind holes.

There are several ways of fastening:

• several clamps;
• on a metal bracket in the hole for the drill neck.

Video of a design option from a drill on a wooden stand.

The easiest way to make a homemade drilling structure at home

A homemade drilling machine from a drill will never replace a factory one and will always be inferior in assembly quality and drilling accuracy. The main advantage of a homemade one is its low price, the ability to drill holes when the factory machine is not available for one reason or another.

You may also be interested in the following articles:

Homemade steering rack drilling machine
Choosing a drilling machine
Lathes from a drill How to make a homemade four-sided lathe

Drilling machine from a drill with your own hands

Dear visitors of the site "Visiting Samodelkin" from the material presented by the author, you will learn how you can independently make a budget drilling machine from an ordinary electric drill.
Every artisan person would like to have a similar machine in his farm, because in comparison with factory counterparts it will cost ten times cheaper, and if all spare parts and components are available, then it is generally free.

The author of this machine is Igor Stasyuk, for which we are very grateful to him, he shared step-by-step photos of the assembly of the machine with the people. The design is quite interesting and at the same time simple. Corners and 4 legs are welded onto a base made of a 3 mm metal sheet, a 500 mm rod from a profiled square pipe is welded onto this plate, a slider is made of 2 corners welded into a pipe and put on a lifting column with a gap so that the slider can move up the column and down. The lifting mechanism is driven by a cable stretched from the upper point to the lower one, and on the slider the cable makes several turns.

And so, let's take a close look at what exactly the author needed to assemble the machine? As well as the whole step-by-step process.

Materials (edit)
1.sheet metal 3mm
2. armature
3.corner
4.cable
5.drill
6.Vise for workpieces
7.bolts, nuts, washers, engravers
8.Drill clamp
9.painting
10.prof square tube
11. drill

Instruments
1.welding machine
2.Bulgarian (angle grinder)
3.drill
4.file
5.vise
6.clamp
7.Vernier caliper
8.rule
9.corner
10.level
11.sandpaper
12.brush
13.hacksaw for metal
14.emery

The process of creating a drilling machine from a drill.
And so, first of all, the author makes the base of the machine from sheet metal 3 mm, cuts out the workpiece using a grinder (angle grinder) And welds 2 corners and 4 legs from a steel rod or reinforcement into the lower part. The length of the legs should be the same, so that there is no skewing of the bed.

Corners and legs are welded.

Slider making! 2 corners are taken and applied to a square profile pipe that will serve as a lifting column and are pulled together with a clamp.

Along the edges it is seized by welding in order to just make a profit for now, and only then specifically boil a normal seam.

This is actually a blank turned out.

The lifting column is made of a square section pipe 500 mm long.

A bracket with a movable shaft is welded onto the slider body, on which the turns of the cable will be made.

The drilled hole is tapped.

The lifting mechanism handles are made of reinforcement.

There is such a head on the shaft, which will be the base for the handles.

And so, 3 handles are welded on for the convenience of raising and lowering the drill through the mechanism.

Installed on a lifting column.

At the end of the cable, such a loop is made.

Attention! The cable is attached at the bottom with a loop, then several turns are made on the shaft and tension is made in the upper part of the lifting column.

I hope the lifting principle is clear and without explanation)

A square pipe is welded onto the corner.

Here is actually such a mount for an electric drill turned out.

Then the drill is installed and secured with a clamp of bolts and nuts.

Now let's go back to the lifting mechanism again.

A nut is welded into the upper part of the lifting column and a bolt is screwed into it, a cable is fixed to the bolt itself, and when the bolt is tightened and unscrewed, the cable is stretched to the optimal rate.

It is advisable to pre-lubricate the movable units with grease or lithol.

These small vise can be purchased at the hardware store in the tools section.

All parts were sanded by a master using sandpaper and then painted.

And now the vice is screwed into its rightful place. And now the Author is already drilling holes in the wooden handles for the machine.

Installation of wooden heads on handles.

This is actually such a wonderful machine made by our master.

Do more creativity, grow above yourself, be creative and success will surely come to you.

This concludes the article. Thank you very much for your attention!
Come visit more often, do not miss new items in the world of homemade products!

The article is presented for informational purposes only!

Hardware stores offer us a huge assortment of various drilling machines in all price categories.

However, the cost of a really high-quality model is very expensive, and there is no point in purchasing a cheap drilling machine from consumer-demand Chinese manufacturers, the resource of which is ridiculous.

It is much easier to buy a good electric drill, and make your own hand-made desktop home-made drilling machine based on it, which will fully meet all your requirements.

The cost of a quality drill is much less than that of a full-fledged drilling machine.

In addition, you can use an electric drill already on the farm, since the design of the machine provides for the possibility of its quick dismantling, which allows you to use one drill both in stationary and manual modes.

1 Required tools and materials

A tabletop drilling machine from a drill can be made on the basis of metal pipes, or on the basis of wooden parts. We recommend that you give preference to the second option, since it is much less laborious and does not require the use of either a grinder or a welding machine.

Wood homemade machine has strength, which is more than enough for normal household use.

Such a do-it-yourself machine based on a drill, adhering to all the recommendations described below, can be made with your own hands within two hours, and it will serve you for more than one year.

In order to make a desktop drilling machine with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• wooden boards 2-2.5 centimeters thick;
• metal guide rails - 2 pieces (such rails are used to supply drawers in tables and dressers, they can be purchased at any furniture supermarket);
• a wooden bar with dimensions of 20 * 30 mm - about two meters;
• wood screws 20 and 30 mm long;
• wood glue;
• electric drill;
• metal rod with M8 class thread;
• metal tube with M6 class thread;
• screws and nuts.

The direct execution of the work occurs with the use of such tools:

• screwdriver (Phillips or regular, depending on which screws you will use);
• drill;
• sandpaper;
• jigsaw and hacksaw;
• corner;
• pencil, ruler;
• level
• roulette
• joinery clamps for fixing boards.

1.1 Creating a base for the frame

To create a base base for a homemade drilling machine, use a hacksaw to cut a 20 * 30 wooden bar into four pieces, two of which are 17 centimeters long, and two more are 20 centimeters long.

If you want to create a homemade machine based on a massive electric drill, it would be better to make a larger base, since increasing its size will give the structure more stability.

Next, prepare a board with dimensions of 200 * 220 * 20 millimeters (the dimensions are given based on the above dimensions of the timber). Using self-tapping screws, connect the sections of the timber into one frame. To connect at each end of the beam, you need to use two self-tapping screws, if you use a beam of greater thickness, then you can screw it on a self-tapping screw at each corner of the end.

Place the board on top of the resulting frame. Fasten it with self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the timber, 2-3 bolts on one side will be more than enough.

To make your job easier, it is recommended drill preliminary holes in the boards, into which screws are much easier to screw in than into a solid board. To avoid protrusions of the heads of the self-tapping screws above the wooden surface, you can use a larger diameter drill to chamfer under their heads.

1.2 Create a column for guides

The width of the board for the column should correspond to the width of the created base, the thickness is 20 mm, and the height is determined depending on the size of the drill used, as a rule, a height of 40-50 centimeters will be more than enough. An excessively high column can negatively affect the stability of the entire structure.

After you have cut the board to a suitable size, immediately attach it to the base using self-tapping screws. Next, you need to equip the free space between the column itself and the electric drill, for this, fix in the center of the upper part of the column, parallel to each other, two pieces of timber, measuring 25 * 35 * 17 millimeters.

In order not to make a mistake with the installation site, perform preliminary marking. Draw a straight line from the center point of the top of the column down, then step back 50 mm from each side of it, and draw two lines parallel to each other. The distance between the lines should be 100 mm.

Watch carefully so that the lines are strictly parallel to each other, so even the slightest angle of inclination of the trajectory along which the guides move is fraught with the fact that the drill will not enter the work surface at right angles, which is why thin drills will break very quickly when drilling hard metal surfaces ...

1.3 Installing the rails

Installing the guides is perhaps the most difficult part of creating a drilling machine with your own hands. It is imperative that the guides run exactly perpendicular to the base of the machine and parallel to each other.

Prepare two boards measuring 100 * 250 * 20 mm, and mark on them the places where the sliding rails will be attached. Sliding rails sold in furniture stores are already equipped with holes for self-tapping screws, so you just have to screw them to the guides with your own hands. After the slats are attached, we mount the guides on the column.

1.4 Create Drill Mounts

We suggest that you make a universal mount with your own hands, which is suitable for installing not only a mini-drill, but also for a full-fledged electric drill. To do this, prepare a 60 * 100 * 20 board for the top holder, and 100 * 100 * 20 for the bottom one.

Using a jigsaw, cut a hole in the center of the bottom plank that is suitable for holding your drill securely. Fasten it to the rail using a furniture corner and self-tapping screws.

We also cut out the upper holder with jigsaws. Its size and shape are individual, and depend on which drill shape you will use. We make holes along the perimeter of both clamps and screw in the screws that will be clamped and motionlessly fix the drill in the holder.

2 Making a height limiter

The height limiter is necessary so that a homemade drilling machine can make multiple holes of the same depth. For creating a delimiter, the metal rod with M8 thread.

Drill a hole in the base in which the rod will be installed (it should be firmly fixed in the base, but, at the same time, rotate freely).

Next, we cut out a small piece of timber, drill a hole in it and install a threaded sleeve on one side, and a piece of a rod that will limit the range of motion of the guides on the other. We twist the beam onto the main rod.

For manual bench drill the machine was more convenient to work, you need to make a handle on the limiting rod.

This can be an ordinary homemade plywood stop, which is rigidly fixed between two nuts.

2.1 Making a homemade drilling machine (video)

In order to save time, you can buy a ready-made inexpensive stand and vise for a drill in the OBI.RU store, which allows you to fix the drill in a vertical position and use it as a drilling machine, thereby increasing the accuracy and speed of work.

Specifications:

• height: 400 mm;
• clamping hole diameter: 43 mm;
• drilling depth: 60 mm;
• the set includes a vice for fixing the workpieces.

7 minutes to read. Published 24.11.2018

It is no secret that in the workshop of every home craftsman there are tools that could rightfully go to their "well-deserved retirement". The hand of the owner does not raise the hand of the owner to throw out of his life an instrument that, on the one hand, is already outdated, on the other, it can still solve this or that problem. And it can also serve as the basis for the "homemade" necessary for the master.

So an old hand drill of Soviet times can serve as an attachment for a screwdriver, a key for opening and closing bolts, a device for stripping insulation from cables and other devices. You can think of many different tools, everything is limited only by your imagination.

And what kind of owner would deny himself the pleasure of decorating his home or workshop with a vintage drill?

Key

For the "DIY key" we only need two gears, small and large flat, from an old hand drill.

Only necessarily steel, not cast iron.

Additionally, small materials are required, which every master has in the house.

Of course, it will not do without welding equipment, a grinding machine, a drill and small tools. The entire technology for making a homemade key consists of the following steps:

1. We disassemble an old hand drill. By knocking out the cotter pins, release the small and large flat gears. Only these details from the drill will be needed in the future.
2. We make a short axis using a grinder. We press it into a large flat gear.
3. Parts are sealed with argon welding. If a conventional electrode is used, then after the welding process, the seam must be cleaned and planned.
4. Let's prepare two tires for the key - short and long (flat metal strips). In both tires we drill holes equal in diameter to the shaft axis. On both tires, using a machine and a hammer, we make an L-shaped double bend at right angles, having previously slightly softened the metal by welding. On a longer tire, there is a deeper bend, on a shorter one, it is slight. This is done so that the shorter tire bends around the flat gear and the long tire bends around the small gear.
5. Let's prepare a metal round timber (shaft) and two half-inch tubes. The round timber should go into the tube and rotate freely in it.
6. We grind one side of the round timber on the machine so that its diameter is equal to the inner diameter of the small gear. We put the aforementioned gear on the made shaft. With a drilling machine, we make two holes in the shaft and connect the round timber (shaft) and the small gear with a cotter pin.
7. Putting the key together in one structure. Place the gears between the two tires so that the bent shorter tire is on the side of the large flat gear. And the long one goes around the small gear. In this case, the short gear is set at a 90 degree angle to the axis of the large flat gear.
8. The small and large gears of the drill must be in contact with the toothed parts, i.e. to put it simply - to coincide in its course, thus transferring the rotation to each other.
9. We make welding, where we connect both ends of the long and short bus with a tube, inside which there is a shaft with a short gear.
10. It remains to make the handle. To do this, we weld the second piece of the tube to the shaft.
11. From the side of the short tire, the shaft with a large flat gear is turned by a grinder in the shape of a square. This is done in order to put on the heads.
12. The key is completely ready with an old drill!

The wrench is specially made to loosen and tighten bolts and nuts in hard-to-reach places. At the same time, we save our time and effort.

Video

Video on how to make a key from an old drill with your own hands:

Screwdriver attachment

What else can you do from an old drill with your own hands?

With a little thought, you can make a screwdriver attachment.

Such a nozzle, which is simple in its design, can be created without unnecessary complications.

The good idea is that there is no need to spend money on additional details. Everything you need is already in the drill design. All you need is a lathe, a grinder, a welding machine and, of course, a screwdriver, the attachment for which we will now make:

1. Remove the two covers from the drill body. We unscrew the stubborn part.
2. We knock out the cotter pin from the small gear and remove it from the shaft on which the drill chuck is attached.
3. With the help of a grinder we grind the tapered shaft end up to 10 mm.
4. We insert the shaft back into the drill body, put on the gear and cotter.
5. On the right side, we cut off the threaded shaft with a grinder.
6. We screw the rubber grip (improved version) into the body on the right.
7. We cut off the threaded part of the shaft of the large gear.
8. The head must be welded to the shaft of the large gear.
9. Screw the two covers back to the body and grease the gears with special graphite grease.
10. The attachment is ready to use!

The "homemade" mechanism allows you to screw and unscrew bolts and nuts in hard-to-reach places. Increases torque 6-7 times. Since the attachment is longer than a simple screwdriver, the tool can be used on the farm, for assembling furniture, for car repairs, if you cannot get to the nut connection in another way.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that this drill bit retains a working angle of 90 degrees, and this functional feature is indispensable when working where the space above the nut is limited and you can screw-unscrew the nut only from the side. The attachment is simple in design, does not require additional investment, and will serve for many years.

Video

A detailed video on how to make the drill bit described above:

Restoration

Can't give up an old but beloved instrument?

Give it a second life and the result will delight every time you pick up the instrument.

It doesn't take much skill to restore a hand drill. It is enough to carefully complete all the stages of work point by point:

1. Unscrew all screw connections of the drill. Remove the handle and both covers. If you have difficulty loosening the screws, use any aerosol-type rust remover.
2. Pull out all cotter pins to free the gears. Remove the fast and slow rotation shafts.
   We dismantle the stop, spindle, handle, drill chuck. Carefully remove the bearing so that the metal balls contained inside do not fall apart.
3. We lay out all the details and screws on the desktop. We wipe each component of the tool with a napkin moistened with a special anti-corrosion compound. We remove the old oil from the gear and inside the body. If necessary, use a metal brush.
4. The time has come for "water procedures" - carefully place all the details of the drill (except for the wooden part of the handle) in a container with a rust neutralizer, such as VSN-1, for example. We leave for a couple of hours.
5. We take out all the parts from the container, and once again thoroughly clean each part with a brush with a plastic bristle from all sides of rust. Do not forget about the screws, they also should not go away from the hand of the "restorer"
6. When you are sure that the rust is done, proceed to remove any remaining paint. This will require a paint remover gel. Apply this gel with a brush to all parts where paint residues are to be removed.
7. Remove paint residues with a metal brush or putty knife (in hard-to-reach places).
8. Buff the surfaces of covers, body and handle with a felt drill.
9. If necessary, straighten the surface of the lids with a hammer.
10. We start preparing for painting work. Cover the holes from the covers on the case with masking tape, place the paper plugs inside the screw holes. Hang the body, handle, covers, stop separately and open each part with an aerosol putty from all sides. Wait until dry.
11. Sand every part with sandpaper and coat again with spray paint. Do this carefully and from a distance so that there are no smudges.
12. Sand the wooden part of the handle and open it with varnish, or you can make a new one on a lathe.
13. Let's start assembling. Lubricate the ball bearing with special graphite grease. Install it. We fasten the small and large gears on the shafts with appropriate cotter pins. We install the drill chuck and stop in place.
14. We lubricate all the gears with a special graphite paste and close the body with covers on both sides. Tighten with screws.
15. Attach a handle with a wooden part to the body with a screw.
16. Ready! The old instrument has changed and pleases its owner!

A hand drill can remain not only a reliable assistant in the work of a home craftsman, but also become a source of technical innovations. For the creative principle is inherent in every craftsman!

Good day everyone! I somehow decided to make wooden handles for my tools - files, chisels, chisels. I began to figure out how to make them. Just planing is too dreary, and it turns out ugly. That would be a lathe for wood! And then it dawned on me. Why not? The main idea was drawn immediately, the details were thought out later. What happened as a result, I want to show you and tell you how I did it.

Materials and tools I used

So, for the manufacture of the machine, I needed the following materials:

• a plank of plywood, about 10 mm thick;
• a wooden block with a rectangular section of 35x50 mm or 40x60 mm, about 1 meter long;
• furniture driven nut - 4 pieces (thread size as for studs);
• two threaded rods M6 - M10 plus three ordinary nuts to them and two bolts;
• screw clamp, its length should be enough to grab a hand electric drill with a margin;
• joiner's glue, self-tapping screws.

Of the tools, I used an electric drill, clamps, a crown or cutter with a diameter of about 10 mm, thin drills for drilling holes for self-tapping screws. You will also need a small emery machine.

Making a lathe from a manual electric drill

We start with the manufacture of the machine frame. To do this, I cut out a plank 60 centimeters long and 11-12 cm wide from multilayer plywood. I’ll make a reservation about the dimensions right away. Variations are possible here. But making the frame too long is not worth it, since the machine will be quite light, and it will not be easy to work with long parts on it.

An important point is the ratio of the width of the plywood frame to the dimensions of the bar. It will be good if the width of the plywood board fits three bars with the smaller side of the cross-section (why this is so, you will understand later). So, if a bar like mine is 35x50 mm, then the width of the frame should be about 11 cm or a little more. If you take a bar of 40x60 mm, then the frame is 12 cm wide.

So, I sawed out the base of the frame 11 cm wide and 60 cm long.After that I saw off a block along the length of the base, that is, also 60 cm. I cut the second block along the length of the drill body so that it does not reach the cartridge and subsequently does not prevented him from rotating.

With the help of wood glue, I connect the bars with the smaller sides of the section so that their ends are on the same line. I clamp the parts to be glued with clamps and let the glue harden. Our electric drive will be attached to this part of the frame, therefore, attaching the drill to the short bar, I mark the place for the hole for the clamp. I drill a hole into which the existing clamp can fit. In my case, the diameter is about 10 mm.

Next, I mark out a plywood board to place in the middle of its width a structure of two glued bars - a long and a short one. Along the middle line of the plank, I drill 7 - 8 holes for self-tapping screws evenly along the entire length.

Having attached the glued bars with clamps to the plywood base, I deepen the holes by drilling the block. Now I insert the screws and tighten them. The machine frame is ready.

After that, we proceed to the manufacture of the tailstock of the machine and the movable stop for the cutter. The headstock will hold the rotating part on the opposite side of the drive. It must move along the frame and be fixed in the desired position depending on the length of the clamped part. The pick stop must also move freely along the workpiece. To make them, I used scraps of the same plywood and timber.

The movable base of the tailstock is made up of a U-shaped structure of two bars and a plywood rectangle. To the surface of the plywood base of the headstock, using self-tapping screws, we attach a plywood square of double thickness, obtained by gluing two square pieces of plywood. This square will hold the centering bolt to clamp the workpiece. I put a single plywood rectangle on self-tapping screws and glue to the bars. You should get a structure that moves freely along the guide bar of the frame.

We pass to the side of the electric drive. We fix the electric drill with a screw clamp on the frame bar. To clamp the workpiece, we need a threaded rod and nuts, regular and furniture driven. Holding the hairpin in the drill chuck, mark the required length (4 - 5 cm) and cut it off.

We sharpen the end of the hairpin, using together an emery and a drill, clamping a piece of the hairpin into the chuck. The end of the stud should be very sharp as it will have to go into the piece of wood to center it. Next, we modify the furniture nut by turning its pointed clamps 180 degrees with pliers. With the help of this part, the part will be clamped and the torque transmitted from the electric drill to it.

We assemble the structure by screwing the nuts onto the stud. The sharp end of the stud should protrude a little further (by 1 - 2 mm) of the sharp clips of the furniture nut. This will make it easier to center the part. On the reverse side, the furniture nut is fixed with the usual one. We clamp the free end of the hairpin into the drill chuck. If necessary, we correct the position of the drill, achieving the parallelism of the stud and the frame bar.
Now you need to move the tailstock to the drive pin to locate the second centering bolt. We move the glued plywood square to the pointed hairpin, apply a light blow with a small hammer on its back side and get the required mark from the sharp hairpin.

The hole is drilled in such a size that the sleeve of the second furniture nut fits into it. We do not modify it, but use it normally, inserting the sleeve into the hole and hammering the retainers with a hammer. If necessary, press the nut in a vice. We sharpen the second stud, screw it into the furniture nut on the tailstock and fix it with ordinary nuts. Having moved the headstock to the drive, we check and, if necessary, correct the alignment of the studs.
Similarly to the tailstock, we assemble the base of the stop for the cutter. The difference is that the plywood shelf of the stop protrudes from one side. Here we will screw a bar with self-tapping screws, on which the cutter will rest.

Good afternoon everyone! In this review, I'll show you how I managed to make a small, simple drilling machine from a purchased drill stand and an available, but rarely used, manual electric drill. I tried to make a complete and convenient device for amateur and household needs, without claims for professional use. As always, the review contains a description of the process, drawings, and the result obtained.

In all previous years, I completely managed to drill holes with a screwdriver, well, very rarely with a hand drill. This was quite enough, there were no problems on parts with a small thickness. Another issue is drilling clearly vertical holes in a large thickness of material, sometimes it turns out to control the verticality of the drill, sometimes not very much.
Reaming a smaller hole with a larger drill: often, during reaming, the original center of the hole could shift, depending on how the drill finds itself there.

To avoid all these problems, critical parts and workpieces must be drilled on a drilling machine, which of course does not exist.
I have already reached the standard when a drilling machine is needed, but what exactly I want from it, what parameters are important for me, and which one to choose - I do not know yet. Therefore, in order to gain experience and form my future needs, for a better and more effective investment in a drilling machine in the future, I decided to practice on a homemade machine from a hand drill stand.

It was possible to buy just a stand, place a drill in it and use it, but I needed to make the drill conveniently turn on and off, as well as conveniently adjust the rotation speed. Therefore, I decided to make a small pedestal for the rack, with the controls placed in it, as well as a box for drills and other accessories.
And at the very base of the stand, I decided to make a wider table for placing and fixing workpieces for drilling. During the design process, the following structure turned out (the stand and drill in the model are different, I took it from the 3D Warehouse):

The design of the box is as follows, with an organizer installed in it for frequently used drills:

Dimensional drawings:

Having studied the vastness of the network and reviews, an already well-known stand for a drill with an all-metal column and a cast-iron base and carriage was chosen. ()
Several photos of unboxing and assembly:

People in reviews write about backlash in the plastic guide carriage, and a slight backlash at the point of the column-carriage, but not all of them. I got a gap in the plastic guide, which was cured by simply placing a piece of plastic from the folder for papers. The backlash disappeared altogether, the carriage began to walk tightly up and down, but thick silicone grease removed this problem as well. The stance is great, heavy, monumental!

An old but vigorous drill Interskol DU13 / 780ER was used as a working part of our machine:

The drill fits tightly into the receiving socket on the stand, there are no backlashes, the fixation is excellent:

We begin to collect our pedestal with a box. Sawing the details of the pedestal. In the project, I laid plywood with a thickness of 10 mm, but it so happened that I had already started a sheet of 12mm, which for some reason I took for 10mm, from this my dimensions floated and I could not understand why for a long time):

We collect on self-tapping screws and PVA:

We cut the details of the inner drawer, the bottom of the drawer is made of 6mm plywood:

We collect the box:

We prepare and glue the back and front caps of the pedestal:

For the drawer, we use furniture ball guides:

To attach the box to the hinges, I put a sheet of plywood next to it and put four 10-ruble coins to create a uniform gap between the box and the base of the pedestal:

We cut out and glue the front panel of the box on PVA, we also adjust the gaps with coins:

Do not forget to make a handle to open the drawer:

As a filling for on / off control and speed control, I picked up the following set in the bins: a relay with a 230V coil, two buttons, with NO and NC contacts, and a symistor speed controller (2000W) from Aliexpress:

On the front panel we mark the holes for the buttons and the potentiometer of the regulator:

We drill holes. Under the knob of the potentiometer, I had to make a small recess with a dremel with a cutter, since the thickness of the front panel is 6 mm, and the knob normally did not sit on the potentiometer shaft:

Trying on buttons:

On the back cover of the button block, I decided to put a socket under the plug of the drill, as well as a stuffing box for the power cable from the mains:

We take the top cover of the pedestal, mark and drill the holes for attaching the base of the stand (I did not glue the top cover of the pedestal, only fastened it with self-tapping screws):

Let's move on to making a drilling table. We will make from two sheets of plywood:

We connect two sheets into four self-tapping screws, mark and cut out a groove for the column of our rack with a jigsaw, modify it with a dremel:

We mark the rounding of the corners:

We mark, we take a router and a 10mm groove cutter on a plywood stop, we make grooves for movable table clamps, as well as table rounding:

We disassemble our part, take the bottom sheet, mark and drill holes in it for attaching the table to the base of the stand:

On the reverse side, for fastening, I used such a fastener with an M8 thread to drown the caps, made the indentations with a dremel:

We take the top sheet of the table, mark and cut out a square hole 70x70 mm for a removable insert. Place the insert with mixing relative to the center so that it can be turned over and use all sides of the square of the insert:

We glue both sheets of our table on PVA:

Preparing clamps for the table. They were made from scraps of plywood, the resulting heel was slightly beveled so that a good clamping of thin parts was obtained. The 8mm hole for the clamping bolt is slightly worked out in the longitudinal direction so that the bolt in the part can deviate about the vertical axis.

Let's try our clamp in action, using a long M8 furniture bolt, washers and a wing nut:

We take all the received machine parts, grind and coat with oil:

We put all the components of the power supply and control system, buttons and relays are connected according to a self-retaining scheme:

We check the inclusion, put everything and fix the wires:

We put rubberized legs at the bottom of the pedestal:

We fasten the drilling table to the base of the stand with M8 nuts:

We insert the box, see what happened so far:

Let's move on to making an organizer for drills. All details of the horizontal compartment of the organizer are made of 6mm plywood. We cut out the base according to the drawing, saw off thin strips of plywood, and assemble the sides on PVA:

We saw 6mm dividers on the table (for such operations, I had to make a zero clearance insert made of aluminum on the sawing table, since the initial surface of the table had already worn out, and strong chips went on the plywood):

We glue the spacers through a 14 mm template on PVA. I took the depth and width (6x14 mm) of the compartment based on my fingers, so that I could easily take a small drill from the bottom of the compartment:

The vertical organizer for the most common drills (two compartments for drills for metal and wood) decided to make 12 mm of plywood, but glue a 6mm strip of plywood on top, since it is very poorly drilled into the end of the plywood:

Let's try our vertical organizer with the horizontal one:

We mark and drill holes in the organizer already on our table with all available drills, from 8mm to 1mm with a diameter step of 1 mm:

Trying on both organizers in the drawer:

We cover new parts with oil, put them in a box. We put the vertical organizer on small hinges so that it can be folded back to a completely vertical position and have access to the drills in the lower compartment.
In front of the horizontal organizer, I glued a stop from a piece of 6mm plywood in the box, after which there will be an organizer for cutters, countersinks and other large drills in the box a little later. I also prepared several square replaceable liners:

We collect all the parts of the machine, roll up and fasten the drill cable so that it does not interfere:

We work:

The drilling machine turned out to be good. It is much more convenient to drill this way, and most importantly it is more accurate and accurate. Of course, there is no maintaining the speed, it would be even more comfortable with it, but I'm already starting to get used to what speed I need to set on the drill and the immersion force for the material, so as not to squander the drill, but also not to spoil the workpiece or part with high speeds. This is all practiced by experience. I will work on it, I will understand what I need and what is important from the machine, what parameters will be critical to me, so that it is possible to consider an "adult" machine in the future.

In the near future, I plan to make a small vice for the vertical fastening of workpieces and a grinding drum to the machine, I need them for upcoming projects.