In my professional career, I have come across many reasons why the laminate is swollen and walks after installation. Most cases, no matter how ridiculous it sounds, eliminate themselves. This applies to slight unevenness in the floor and curved laminate planks. However, there are many situations associated with a violation of the technology of the flooring or an excess of moisture in the base.

It must be understood that a laminate or parquet board is a floating coating that is not attached to the base with screws and glue. Therefore, it is assumed that laminated parquet will be squeezed to some extent when walking. This measure is difficult to explain in words. Sometimes they ask: why does the laminate walk, but it actually lies normally.

Let me tell you the cases from a personal example that I had to deal with.

No matter how blasphemous it sounds in relation to manufacturers, but often the reason for walking is a crooked laminate.

There was a case when they called us to the bulkhead of the cover. True, there was Amberwood parquet board, but this does not change the matter. I asked if there were any spare boards for the recalibration and received an affirmative answer.

The skirting board was not installed and we immediately began to dismantle the parquet. When removing, they immediately drew attention to the boards curved by the boat. Here the reason for walking, walking the cover was obvious - the curved planks.

In a parquet board, the upper layer usually consists of valuable wood species - harder, and the lower stabilizing layer - of pine needles. The two layers have different tensile strength and hygroscopic properties. Therefore, if the storage conditions and the absorption of excess moisture are violated, such a deformation occurs.

After examining the spare parts of the parquet, they refused to bulkhead due to the futility of the lesson. First, they were uneven. Secondly, the whole floor was shaking.

The situation with laminate should be different - this material consists of recycled homogeneous wood pulp. To stabilize the board, a laminated layer is applied on both sides. One - decorative with a protective film, the second - from the bottom of the board. The bottom layer provides moisture insulation and stability for the entire composite. This is how it should be, but at regular intervals the laminate planks are still curved in packages. This applies not only to inexpensive coating brands, but also from the premium segment.

On one flooring contract, I showed a customer that laminate flooring is very crooked. But even in such cases, no one has yet canceled the flooring in my practice. It is not beneficial to anyone: neither the owners of the apartment, nor the craftsmen. It is costly and time-consuming to change the entire batch, and the defect is eliminated over time.

At the end of the installation of an inexpensive laminate floor, I was asked why does the laminate walk, especially around the edges? Another person took over the job. I had to explain a second time that the panels are curved, showing the remaining planks.

Let me draw your attention to the fact that the floating floor always walks a little along the edges of the premises - this is the first and last row of the coating.

The planks of the middle rows are pressed to the floor under the weight and due to the displacement of the seams, partial straightening occurs. Therefore, in the middle of the room, the laminate walks less than along the edges.

These were not exceptional cases, this happens quite often. Not everyone pays attention to this drawback, manifested to a greater or lesser extent.

Laminate walks, walks when walking - fix

If the laminate is walking, walking for this reason, then nothing needs to be disassembled and repaired. With the passage of some time, the floating floor will settle down by itself.

The coating will fit snugly against the substrate under its weight. Arranged furniture and the installation of a wall plinth around the edges of the room will help to strengthen the process. In addition, over time, the laminate is cured and takes on a shape that repeats the relief of the base.

Walks, laminate flooring, the reason is an uneven base

According to the tolerances on the base for laying the laminate, a difference of 2-3 mm per 1 linear meter is allowed. In newly built houses, the concrete screed is usually quite straight, although not always. Evenness must be checked using a rule or level, preferably 2 meters long. This makes it easier to identify bumps and holes. Most often, drops are found near heating pipes and in the area of ​​doorways. Particular attention should be paid to doorways, as this is a key place with high traffic.

But most often we observe an uneven base in old houses of the Soviet era. At that time, precision was not given to the finishing of buildings.

The floors can be parquet or concrete - it doesn't matter. We install laminate flooring in such houses on a regular basis. Not all buyers of my services can afford to level the base. Not only due to financial difficulties, but also due to the small amount of free time and the cramped living conditions. Therefore, the flooring is made on top of the old coating without quality guarantees.

Walks, walks laminate due to uneven floor - correction

There are two ways out of the situation that the laminate is walking. One radical one is to level the base. But if you did not decide right away, then it is unlikely that you will want to re-create a mess when the repair is made.

The second solution is to do nothing. Laminate is not linoleum, which immediately takes on the relief of surface irregularities. But over time, it is able to settle under its own weight and the weight of the furniture, taking the form of the base.

The disadvantage of laying the laminate on an uneven floor is a change in the geometry of the joint and the appearance of gaps. And the formation of gaps leads to faster wear of the lock joint.

The laminate is swollen - what to do ?!

The phrase "the laminate is swollen" usually means either

• that he hit the wall and a big wave was formed
• or that the laminate is swollen at the joints from the ingress of water and bubble formation has occurred.

Unlike previous problems, this one is more serious and cannot be eliminated on its own. What needs to be done in this case, I will now describe.

When the laminate is swollen, further use of the floor threatens to permanently break the locks. Visually, such a consequence of a violation of technology in styling looks like a wave or bubble. It is usually located in the middle of the room, sometimes with a slight offset to one side. When walking on it, pressure is created and the ball moves. Sometimes this miracle of technology moves away from the floor by 2-3 cm, once they saw how such a wave was about 10-15 cm.

This unique incident took place in a country house. When clarifying the reasons, they found out that the laminate was laid on a fresh screed. Judging by the circumstances, the craftsmen laid it without gaps from the partitions. Otherwise I cannot explain such a huge swelling. In addition, the laminated flooring rested against the plastic heating pipes. For this reason, we refused to correct someone else's work, fearing that the laminate would pass two thin tubes with all the consequences.

This situation stems from the illiteracy of the performers. The masters are generalists, they say: “Look, I'm doing everything right now. People fly into space, and then put the leminata. " And they do ... without the necessary technological gaps from the walls. The coating stands for some time normally, and then, having gained moisture, it expands and rests against the partition. Since the laminate cannot push through the wall, it begins to rise upward.

This can happen even if the master made a small gap, but after the screed was installed, it could not withstand the required period of its complete drying. More moisture was absorbed into the coating and, as a result, the laminate rested against the interior ceiling.

The laminate is swollen - how to fix it ?!

Fixing a bulging laminate against a wall is difficult, but possible. The first thing to do in any case is to remove the skirting board. We dismantled the skirting board and made sure that the laminated flooring really buried itself in the concrete partition.

• It is necessary to carefully remove the laminate without damaging the locks. You need to file 5-10 mm on each side. It is difficult to dismantle the cover, since it rested against the wall and can be pulled out with a special bracket only by breaking the panels. The depth of the situation depends on how significantly the rows of boards are buried in the concrete. If there is no stock of material and the lock connection with plastic inserts, it is better not to try it yourself at all. In extreme cases, at the discretion of the called specialist.
• The second option involves the use of technical equipment - an electric chisel (renovator). This is an electric or battery-powered tool, like a grinder (grinder), only for more delicate work. A semicircular nozzle with small teeth is used. I will say right away: it is physically very difficult to saw through. You need to press hard on the instrument and your hands begin to itch from the high vibration. I usually saw through and finish off with a sharp chisel. The semicircular saw blade becomes unusable, the chisel needs to be re-sharpened.

It should be borne in mind that after the operation, the laminated or parquet floor will not immediately take its original horizontal position. It will take some time, about a week, before the coating evens out 90%. And it will finally fall into place a little later. So please be patient.

It should also be understood that after such a colossal load on the lock connection, its deformation and fracture begins. Therefore, a squeak may appear.

The laminate is swollen at the joints from water - how to fix it ?! Method number 1.

When using the coating in the kitchen, corridor, and even the room, the laminate at the joints from water can swell. The reasons are different: a child knocked over a mug of water, a cat decided to try a new floor, frequent and abundant washing of laminated parquet, wet shoes, a radiator leak.

And just as regularly the question arises about the possibility of replacing damaged panels without disassembling the floor and with partial dismantling.

I often get calls to replace or fix this marriage. I refuse to people who have not used my laminate installation service, even if I am not working at the moment, and here are the reasons. Next, there will be a story: what to do, how to fix or replace a laminate that is swollen from water and why I refuse this work.

Reason # 1

After a certain time has elapsed after laying, especially if there were drops in humidity, and they were, since such a situation happened, the locking joints of the coating gain moisture. That is, in some places the lock becomes thicker from the absorbed liquid, in others it remains dry.

In the event of a serious leak, the substrate and base must be inspected additionally. In the presence of excessive moisture, the insulation and the base must be dried.

If it is necessary to replace several swollen planks, you should work with the lock in places, cutting to the desired thickness. Butt joints, as a rule, are already poorly adhered to each other and in other boards. If you nevertheless decide to fix the laminate that has swollen from water in this way yourself, try not to change the order of the laid laminated panels. This will give a more acceptable result.

I am telling you from personal experience, as I have been doing such work for a long time. Interestingly, on one occasion, a customer brought in a stack of laminate flooring to replace their cold garage. As you can imagine, the panels were damp and I didn’t find it out by phone, otherwise I wouldn’t have gone. The damp boards affected the quality of the final work for the worse. But all this does not seem so difficult if it were not for reason # 2.

Reason # 2

The second reason for my "unwillingness" to correct the laminate, swollen from water, the difficulty of clarifying the circumstances. How the furniture stands, in order to understand from which part you can start disassembling, the direction of laying the laminate. And the installed door block clamps the door frame. To start disassembling the laminate without breaking the locks, you will most likely need to break the outline around the door pillars with a chisel. And, of course, remove the sill and skirting board. It will be a blessing if it is not glutinous.

If you plan to replace the laminate that has swollen from water on your own, you must take into account the above reasons and add them to the total work.

But that's not all, as there is reason # 3.

Reason # 3

There are two more nuances that interfere with replacing the laminate that is swollen from water at the joints of the laminate. But we will combine them into one heading.

It is not known what kind of work experience the foreman worked with, and how well he made the flooring. A person could break the locks when assembling. And the structure holds on until they begin to disassemble it. Accordingly, after even a neat installation, you can not fold it back with high quality.

The second nuance lies in the mandatory knowledge of the lock connection and the brand of the floor. With a laminated coating, everything is clear - each brand has its own individual joint and another laminate, although the same in thickness and dimensions, most likely will not work.

And the locking system is different in assembly. For example, a 5G locking system (Classen laminate) is very difficult to disassemble without breaking the lock. This point must also be taken into account when deciding to replace panels that are swollen from moisture. And take your time.

Replacing one or several planks of a laminate that is swollen from water can be done by disassembling part of the covering. However, it is necessary to balance the risks of possible failure and the actual need for replacement.

The laminate is swollen from water - Correction method # 2 (indiscriminately)

On the Internet, you can find the described ways of fixing when the laminate is swollen from the water, without disassembling the entire floor. I decided to contribute to the description of this technical process. As in any story, few people understand the topic of hackers, the tip of the iceberg is shown. Without a description of details that could affect both the customer's expectation on the final quality of work, and the meaning of this procedure in general.

The gallant storyteller boldly describes a way to fix the laminate without disassembling the floor, by dismantling one board. However, without going into details. We will fix this issue.

How to cut a laminate board ?!

The laminate board to be replaced is cut along the inner contour, stepping back a few centimeters from the edge. The intended tool used could be:

1. MFI (multi-functional tool), it is also an electric mesh, it is also a renovator.
2. LBM (angle grinder), she is a Bulgarian
3. Jigsaw ?????
4. Drill with drill, chisel.

1) We take an MFI with a semicircular nozzle. We cut the laminate panel along the inner contour along the perimeter from four sides. After the end of the operation, we take out the cut. We remove the remains of the panel with a chisel and a construction knife, carefully picking out so as not to damage the whole lamellas.

2) The same action can be done with a grinder. It should be taken into account that there will be more dust and burning.

3) It is impossible to do this with an electric jigsaw.... This method of using the tool was indicated by the would-be specialist.

4) Using a drill with a drill, drill the holes along the contour, and break the distance between them with a chisel with a hammer. And clean the remnants with a chisel and a knife. Note that with only such a tool, it is likely that your level of construction skill does not match the task at hand. Therefore, it is better not to take it.

If there is a warm infrared or electric floor under the laminate, which is separated only by the substrate, work on replacing swollen boards cannot be carried out in this way!

After cutting the panel - you need to pay attention to the substrate and what is under it. If the base is damp, it needs to be dried. Otherwise, in the future, fungus and mold may form.

Initially, the method of replacing a blown laminate without disassembly refers to quartz vinyl tiles, which are less prone to expansion. We have adapted this method for a laminated coating, but there are many questions.

Replacing the new panel

If in the first point of correcting a swollen laminate everything is indiscriminately clear, then in the second part it is much more difficult ...

So, we cleaned the cut out space from chips, preferably with a vacuum cleaner. We took a new laminated panel.

Method 1

It is necessary to cut the locks from three sides of the strip (from two ends and one long part). This must be done, otherwise you will not be able to insert the plate.

Then we insert the panel with a locking connection along the long part into the laid row. Attention, we do not smear anything with glue in advance, we do not remove the backing yet.

The point is that the new board may not fit into place. Since the laminate is made from sawdust, it is prone to increase and decrease in size due to changes in humidity and temperatures. Therefore, nominal sizes may vary.

If this happens, we mark where you need to remove the excess. It is better to do this with sandpaper on the MFI or angle grinder attachment. Fitted? Ok, let's move on to the next step.

Further, your actions depend on the evenness of the floor and the type of substrate. With soft insulation, it is better to remove it, otherwise the board being replaced will be guaranteed to walk relative to adjacent planks. And prime the base and spread with one-component glue. If the substrate is solid (cork for example), you need to check how the new laminate board cut from the locks will adhere to the old floor in height. Namely, will there not be steps?

Even if there are no steps, insert the panel, walk over the place to be restored. With a normal result, grease the ends of the board and the substrate with glue of the "Moment" type. But. most likely, the panel will walk. Evaluate the result, if it does not suit you, you will need to cut off the lining and apply glue along the height instead.

Align the new plank to the maximum with the rest of the laminates and fix it with a load. As you understand, adjacent dies lying on the substrate can be pressed against the repaired part, and as a new floor there will be no more. Note that if the laminate is laid with a bevel, the difference is not so noticeable.

I have two questions for this method.

If the laminate is swollen at the joints from moisture, even a small amount, then at least two boards, or even three, swell. That complicates the task, respectively, 2-3 times. And all these operations risk leading to mechanical damage to adjacent entire panels.

And will it be as much better as the customer wants it to be?

Method 2

The second way to fix a laminate that is swollen with moisture is unrealistic, but once I watched a video.

3 men come with vacuum suction cups. Cut out the specified board, remove the remnants by the above methods. Manipulations are performed on the cutout of a part of the locks.

Locking joints must be cut off the ridges on a new die and on old ones as well on both sides. Then liberally grease the locking parts with glue of the "Moment" type.

Men on both sides with suction cups lift the laid layer of laminate, and the third one puts the board in the right place. Then the edges are pressed tightly for fixation with glue and pressed with a load around the perimeter.

And again there are a couple of questions

Where to get three healthy men with suckers and how much it might cost. In general, the option is unrealistic.

The laminate is swollen, the reason is the lack of an expansion joint

In general, this is a continuation of the theme of the situation with the laminate, leaning against the wall. The conditions are just changing a little.

According to the manufacturer's instructions, the coating can be assembled as a single sheet to a length not exceeding 8-10 meters, depending on the manufacturer. Further, it must be disconnected with a docking nut. This must be done, since each running meter of the floating floor can breathe about 1 mm. That is, with a floor length of 15 meters during the period when the heating is turned off and on, the coating can expand up to 15 mm. ...

This is all in theory, in practice it is somewhat different, since we regularly produce laminate flooring in a floating way. And claims to me and my partner on the swollen coating have never been reported. I think that the point is in the correctly set gaps. But it should be remembered that there is no guarantee for this method of installation.

Laminate walks, walks because of the thick backing

Laminate can be walked and walked because of the thick and soft backing. The punching effect occurs because a soft backing, for example 5 mm thick, shrinks in the order of 3 mm. When walking on such a floor, a subsidence is noticeably felt. Let me remind you that manufacturers of wood-based floating floors recommend using insulation with a thickness of no more than 3 mm.

When using a coniferous substrate with a high hardness, the laminate flooring occurs. This happens because its curvature occurs regularly. Over time, it takes on the relief of the base under the weight of the laminate and the placed furniture.

Laminate is walking or swollen - a few more reasons

Laminate lifting and walking can be caused by improperly installed thresholds anchored through the covering to the concrete without widening the holes. Door bumper, sliding wardrobe doors, or rather a rail guide.

To avoid floor swelling, when installing bumpers or wardrobe rails, it is required to expand the hole in the laminate by drilling with a larger diameter drill.

The covering can walk if the room is narrow or small, for example, a long corridor or a storage room. The assembled floor is lightweight and can be walked and driven.

The floating floor can also walk if the row assembly technology is violated. Due to non-observance of the gap of the end seams, the assembled laminated parquet loses its rigidity.

There are exceptions: if the corridor is small, measuring 1.5 by 1.5 meters. Although nailing it to the concrete, it will not swell from expansion due to changes in ambient humidity, since the expansion coefficient for such an area is very small.

Unfortunately, faced with such numerous violations, I did not think of saving everything. And there are not many specific photos, and it is difficult to search among several thousand photos. As far as possible, I will supplement this story. I hope the descriptions seem to you quite detailed in order to fix the problem that has arisen related to the fact that the laminate is swollen, walks or walks.

,and this is not surprising. It looks great, has a huge selection of colors and textures, which allows you to choose the right coating for any design. In addition, it can be easily and quickly assembled even independently without the help of workers, is unpretentious in operation and has a low cost.However, despite all the advantages of this coating, there is one drawback - under the influence of various factors, the laminate can swell. This can provoke the ingress of liquid on the flooring, improper installation or poor quality of the material itself.

To eliminate this defect, it is not necessary to contact a specialist, you can do everything yourself, but you need to establish the cause of the bloating, then resort to methods to eliminate it. So what to do if the laminate is swollen? We understand the features of the problem and how to solve it.

Design

If you decide to deal with laminate on your own, you need to understand how it works. The panel is based on a fiberboard or chipboard board, on both sides of which there are small connectors-locks for the possibility of connecting the plates during installation. The strength of the coating depends on the thickness of this layer. There is a protective layer on its bottom side. It resembles a thick sheet of paper, which is covered with a waterproof film on one side and protects against moisture penetration.

There is a decorative layer on the top of the fiberboard. This is the paper on which the drawing is applied. The paper is covered with a melamine layer and a layer of acrylic resin. This coating protects the board from external influences, and the better it is, the better the protection and, therefore, the higher the price of the laminate.

Manufacturers can add additional layers: natural wood veneer, backing, protective topcoat, or waterproof sheathing. Naturally, the addition of layers increases the cost of the facing material.

Laminate classifications

Before installing such a cladding, it is necessary to take into account that it has a classification for wear resistance and moisture resistance.

Wear resistance

This parameter determines the place where laminate flooring can be laid. Each class is numbered and indicated on the package:

1. 21, 22, 23 grades - low wear resistance level... The coating does not tolerate high levels of humidity or high traffic of people. This laminate is used in bedrooms or for temporary flooring. Class 23 is considered more stable and can be laid in residential premises, but it should be borne in mind that it cannot withstand heavy loads.
2. 31, 33 class- laminate that can withstand intense exercise. Can be used for floors in corridors, hallways, etc.
3. Class 34 - the most wear-resistant material. 34 class laminate is able to be exposed to water for a long time without the threat of deformation. This coverage is intended for public institutions (cafes, restaurants, cinemas, etc.).
4. 42, 43 grade- top class material. Manufactured exclusively to order. It is used in rooms where the floor must withstand maximum load (train stations, airports etc.). In residential premises, a laminate of this class is irrational and impractical to use.

Moisture resistance

With the right choice of material for this parameter, we can say that there will be no problem with the swelling of the laminate due to moisture entering it. So, according to moisture resistance, the laminate is divided into:

1. Moisture resistant- a coating that is not afraid of the influence of moisture. Such material has an additional wax coating or coating with resins with a moisture resistance effect. Designed for rooms with high humidity (, etc.).
2. Water resistant- material that can withstand direct contact with liquid for several hours.

A competent choice of laminate according to the degree of moisture resistance guarantees that the influence of external factors will not adversely affect the coating and, accordingly, will not cause swelling of the lamellas. If deformation occurs, you can safely exclude outside influence and look for another reason.

Causes of laminate swelling

It is believed that when a swelling appears, it is necessary to dismantle and completely replace the entire floor covering. However, it is not. It is necessary to assess the damage and find out its cause. In some cases, replacing one or more lamellas can be dispensed with.

What can provoke laminate flooring? Let's consider these reasons in more detail:

The reason for the swelling of the laminate helps us to identify the nature of the deformation:

If you used the services of the repair team when installing the laminate and the violation of the relief of the coating occurred during the warranty period, contact your service agency. They must either restore the panels or pay monetary compensation.

With low material quality

If the laminate is swollen due to poor quality material, you need to make replacement the entire coverage. This option must be foreseen and thought out in advance in order to avoid double payment. It is advisable to purchase a high-quality laminate (33 classes) in order to exclude such a defect and protect yourself from the occurrence of such troubles.

When exposed to water

If on laminate hit water, it is necessary to remove the damaged panels in order to remove the liquid under the cover. To do this, close to the deformed area, carefully remove and disassemble the panels to the desired place, dry them and be sure to replace the substrate. If the repair began quickly and the water did not stagnate, then this operation is quite enough - you can put the laminate in place.

If the water has affected the laminate for a long time, it is necessary to replace several lamellas, as irreversible processes could begin in them. Cheap laminate models are more susceptible to deformation, and a complete replacement of the lamellas is usually required. A better coating after complete drying returns to its original state, and the purchase of new lamellas can be avoided.

It happens that it is necessary to replace a small part of the cladding, and it is very difficult to find the right boards with a suitable color, pattern and texture. In this case, you can use the lamellas that are under the furniture. To do this, the laminate in the hidden zone must be replaced with a laminate of the same company and the same series, but in a different color. The main thing is to match the locks. This way you will have the necessary laminate flooring to replace the damaged area.

In the future, when calculating the required amount of coating, it is necessary to take into account several lamellas in reserve.

If the compensation gap is not observed

In this case, it is necessary to dismantle the skirting boards and determine where the lamellas are right next to the wall. Then you need to remove and cut the slats. The resulting gap will be closed with a plinth.

For, to avoid complete dismantling of the cover, it is necessary to take out the furniture from the room, remove the baseboards and measure 10-15 mm from each wall. Then cut the laminate boards along the marked line with a jigsaw. When carrying out such manipulations, the coating is leveled in a few days.

To speed up the process of leveling the laminate, place a heavy object on the damaged area. When the flooring returns to its original position, you can replace the skirting board and close the resulting gap.

Exists another way to avoid completely dismantling the cover but it is more time consuming. This is only a replacement for damaged boards. To do this, draw a rectangle inside the deformed board, which will be several centimeters less than the perimeter of this board. Then carefully cut a rectangle along the marked line and pull it out with a chisel. When the cover joints are loose, pull out the rest of the cut out lamella. A row of boards adjacent to this panel must be knocked 10 mm against the wall and cut off the lock from the side of the void. Next, take a new panel, treat it with an adhesive around the perimeter and lower it into the formed niche at an angle of 45 degrees. Press down with a heavy object for a while.

It is very important to react in time to the appearance of deformation.

Moisture protection measures for laminate flooring

In order to prevent moisture from entering the inner part of the lamella, a special wax is used. It protects the coating during wet cleaning and from accidentally spilled liquid. The wax fills the gaps in the joints with a waterproof layer so that the liquid does not penetrate through them into the coating.

Before waxing the laminate, be sure to remove all stains, dust off and dry the laminate. Then, using a spatula, apply a thin layer of wax to the joints between the boards and polish the floor with an absorbent cloth or a monodisc polishing machine. After polishing, it is necessary to check that the wax has filled all joints and cracks, if any, but in no case remained on the surface of the laminate. It is very important! Re-polishing is carried out after 3-4 hours. You can only walk on the floor after polishing after 10 hours.

When working with polish, it is imperative to wear a respirator and ventilate the room well, since when the wax dries, it emits vapors that can harm human health.

There are also special polishes to protect the laminate from moisture. They create a moisture-repellent film on the surface of the floor covering, which prevents moisture from entering the inner layers of the lamellas.

It should be noted that these methods protect the laminate from deformation only when contact with water is not long-term. With abundant ingress of moisture or a puddle that has taken place, deformation cannot be avoided.

Deformation prevention rules

To avoid the appearance of a swelling of the laminate, you should adhere to the following rules for the operation of the coating:

1. Make your choice only in favor of quality products from trusted manufacturers. In this case, there is confidence that the coating is made of high-quality materials and will not deform even after prolonged contact with water.
2. The class of the product must be appropriate for its application.
3. The laminate substrate must be carefully prepared and have a reliable waterproofing layer.
4. When installing the lamellas, it is necessary to comply with all requirements and take into account the compression space between the floor and the walls.
5. Wet cleaning must be done carefully. There should be no puddles on the surface of the laminate.
6. The integrity of the coating must not be violated. If it is necessary to fix furniture, a radiator, etc. to the floor, it is necessary to connect the objects through the holes in the panels directly to the tie.
7. Use special waxes or polishes to protect the laminate from occasional exposure to moisture.

Laminate care rules

The durability of the laminate depends on the quality of care for the surface of the laminate. To preserve the aesthetic appearance and attractiveness, it is necessary to remove moisture and dirt in time, carry out dry cleaning with a broom, broom or vacuum cleaner. To avoid damage to the laminate flooring, it is allowed to wash the floors no more than twice a week with extreme care.

To preserve the original look of the laminate, you must use some rules:

1. Eliminate the use of abrasive and ammonia-based detergents.
2. Protect the coating from mechanical stress.
3. Limit the use of detergents.
4. Timely eliminate moisture, hot and acidic liquid.

Minor scratches can cause irreversible damage. Since through them moisture can penetrate to the base of the lamellas and spoil them. If a scratch occurs, a special pencil should be used.

Remove stains and stubborn dirt only in consultation with a specialist.

With proper care, laminate flooring will serve you faithfully for a long time. And in case of damage, you can easily eliminate the defect on your own, following our instructions.

Laminate is a popular coating due to the combination of practicality and decorative characteristics, the ability to choose products of the optimal color, texture, and wear resistance. Subject to the rules of operation and maintenance, the surface retains its original appearance for many years. However, there are factors that can cause the laminate to swell. In this article, we will discuss the likely causes of laminate deformation and how to quickly fix them.

Why the laminate was swollen: reasons

An important stage in eliminating the defects that have appeared is to determine the cause of their occurrence, since it is on this that the steps to restore the appearance and functionality of the coating depend. There are many reasons why laminate flooring swells immediately after installation or during use. Let's name the main ones:

• Violation of the installation rules - the absence of deformation gaps between the lamellas and the wall, which should be 10-20 mm. The swelling in this case will be wavy. Another reason for the deformation of the coating is the presence of fasteners between the strips. A floating installation method is recommended. The need for gaps is due to the expansion or contraction of laminated planks with fluctuations in temperature and humidity.
• Modern laminated material withstands well wet cleaning and short-term contact with moisture. However, prolonged exposure to water often causes laminate seams to swell. If tea or coffee is spilled into the joints, then the liquid must be immediately blotted with a rag. If water remains in the joint for a long time, the floor surface will deform.
• Poorly prepared base. In this case, a complete disassembly of the coating and correction of defects in the base surface will be required. Swelling of the lamellas can be caused by high residual moisture in the base surface. Each material has its own standard: for reinforced concrete floors - 4%, cement-sand screed - 5%, plywood, wood, chipboard - 12%.
• The backing is too thick. This reason can be attributed to improper preparation of the base, since when leveling the base surface, the base is rolled up in several layers. Consequence - laminated boards are springy, locks loosen and soon break.
• Normal humidity conditions in a room with laminate flooring are 40-60%. If these indicators are higher, then only material with a water absorption coefficient of no more than 7% can be laid in such a room.

Laminate swollen from water

When can a swollen laminate be repaired without dismantling?

If the laminate is swollen at the joints due to the absence of a deformation gap, then this defect can be eliminated without disassembling the coating, which must be done for this:

1. dismantle the skirting board;
2. determine the areas that run into the wall;
3. cut off parts of the lamellas with an electric jigsaw, "grinder" or other convenient tool, leaving a gap between the coating and the wall of 10-20 mm, but be sure to take into account the width of the plinth;
4. in places of swelling, gently press on the panels to eliminate warpage. If the floor cannot be leveled in this way, then the deformed section will have to be dismantled and laid again.

In rooms with a normal level of humidity and a stable temperature, a gap of 10 mm is sufficient, in buildings where there are sharp changes in temperature and humidity, it is recommended to increase the gap to 15-20 mm.

What to do if the laminate is swollen from moisture: ways to fix the situation

If the deformation of the surface has occurred due to the high humidity of the base, then the lamellas will have to be dismantled in order to dry them in a room with a good ventilation system. The moisture content of the substrate must be brought to the required level.

What if the laminate is swollen from a significant amount of water?

In this case, in the place of the swelling, it is necessary to remove the lamellas and check if the liquid has leaked under the substrate. If this happens, then it is necessary to disassemble the floor around the place of deformation, dry the substrate, and assemble.

Repair of laminate flooring in sections

How to repair a swollen coating with your own hands if it is necessary to remove individual damaged laminate strips and replace them with new ones? For slats with a snap connection, this is done as follows:

1. dismantle the plinth from the side closest to the damaged area;
2. using a chisel or a hook, pry off the edge board;
3. disassemble the required number of panels.

If it is difficult or impossible to perform such a disassembly from the wall, then one panel can be replaced, for this:

1. a rectangle is cut out inside the damaged lamella, a few centimeters smaller along the perimeter than the entire panel;
2. using a hammer and chisel, remove the central part, and then the rest of the elements;
3. if the situation permits, then the adjacent rows of panels are knocked into the sides of the walls (for this you will have to dismantle the baseboards), there should be enough space to start the locks of the new lamella;
4. if the previous operation fails, then the locks are cut off from three sides, the new bar is inserted with one lock, all sides are coated with glue;
5. the new board is lowered into place, pressed evenly over the entire area.

If it is not possible to avoid dismantling the damaged area, then one board can be replaced without disassembling the entire floor.

If the laminate is swollen from high humidity, how to fix the situation with an iron?

This is a popular method, and it is far from always effective. It can be used only for high-quality material and only in cases where the water has not wetted the substrate.

How to level the laminate with an iron without replacing the planks if the lamellas are wet and swollen:

• the heating temperature should be average or slightly below average;
• a metal ruler is laid on a swollen area, usually a joint between two strips;
• the ruler is ironed with an iron.

Attention! Overheating of the surface will damage the lamellas.

How do I fix laminate flooring that is bulging due to a too thick backing?

This is a complex option requiring complete dismantling. You can, of course, replace only the strips in the areas of deformation of the coating. However, over time, deformations can appear in other places. Therefore, to obtain a high-quality finishing layer, you should:

1. disassemble all panels and remove the backing;
2. fix the defects of the base layer, if any;
3. put a substrate of the required thickness.

What to do with swollen laminate flooring with damaged locks? The ideal option is to purchase replacement slats from the same batch.

Bloating prevention

It is much more difficult to fix defects than to prevent the reasons due to which the laminate is strongly swollen.

Preventive measures:

• Correct preparation of the base layer, adherence to the specified humidity before laying the finishing layer, the optimal thickness of the substrate.
• Good quality of the interlocks. You can check it by attaching two strips. Their connection should occur after pressing under force and accompanied by a characteristic click. Weak locks connect easily and quickly and also fall apart easily.
• Good quality material. Quality products are easy to install and can withstand deviations from normal operating conditions better. Higher moisture resistance is usually found in high material classes - 33 and 34. For rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to lay laminated panels with a PVC base, rather than wood components.
• or produce it by carefully studying the intricacies of the process.
• Impregnation of joints with wax-based compounds.

To avoid repairing a swollen laminate, you must follow the rules for caring for the mounted coating:

• take care of the material of classes 31 and 32 mainly dry using a broom or vacuum cleaner;
• clean panels of 33 and 34 class using a combination of dry and wet cleaning.

You can read about how to wash laminate flooring so that it does not swell, care rules and products for laminate floors in

Despite the fact that laminate flooring is considered to be a strong and durable coating, a coating of a low strength class may not withstand some loads and deform. One of the damages is a wavy defect, unevenness and swelling at the joints, and the reasons for the swelling of the laminate are errors during installation, poor quality of the material and exposure to moisture (high humidity or water directly). If the cause of damage is the poor quality of the laminate, the only way out is to replace it completely. In other cases, the problem can be solved.

Excessive moisture can be detrimental to the surface of a laminate that does not have a waterproof coating. As a result, the joints and locks swell, the top coating peels off. If the laminate is swollen from water, you need to dismantle the areas that have gotten wet as soon as possible. If the material is of high quality, it is likely that after drying, the waves on its surface will disappear, returning the coating to its original appearance, but in most cases this does not happen, especially if the material is cheap - it absorbs moisture, like a sponge, deforming at the same time.

As soon as a large amount of water gets on the laminate, it is necessary not only to remove the damaged lamellas, but also to wipe dry or change the substrate under them. If the floor surface has been flooded with water for a long time, the swollen laminate will have to be removed. To replace the boards, you will need the remains of a similar laminate or the purchase of a similar one, the main thing is to choose the same manufacturer so that the locks on the boards match. Before removing the swelling of the laminate with glued joints, it is necessary to make cuts with a circular saw of the damaged panel with an indent along its edges in order to avoid damage to adjacent boards. Then the board is removed and replaced with a new one, on the joints of which glue is applied. The locks of the replaced and existing panels are cut as follows: the upper part of the groove is removed from the laid lamella, and the lower part of the new one, after which they are connected. To fix and quickly "grip" the panels, you need to place some weight on top for 3-4 hours.

Incorrect installation

If the laminate began to swell due to installation errors, most often this means that when laying the boards, they did not leave free space between the wall and the panels, which is necessary so that the tree can expand slightly over time. At the same time, the laminate should be attached with modern wide skirting boards. If these measures were not provided, over time or with a temperature drop, irregularities may appear on its surface, which can be removed with your own hands. If the plate is not cracked or crumbled, you can simply flatten it with a homemade press, squeezing it with two flat surfaces.

Another way is to replace the lamellas, which consists of a sequence of actions:

1. Skirting boards are removed along the entire perimeter of the room, the presence of gaps between the wall and the laminate is checked, as well as their compliance with standards.
2. If a door striker is installed, check that it is properly secured. In order not to damage the surface of the laminate when installing it, it is drilled 2 cm deep and attached directly to the screed.
3. It is also necessary to check for a thermal gap between the heating pipe and the surface of the laminate.
4. If the laminated boards fit too tightly against the wall, the laminate with a locking system of fastening should be raised at an angle of 45 degrees and all boards in a row pulled out. Then the required gap distance is marked and the edges are carefully cut off with a jigsaw or other convenient tool by 1-2 cm.If a laminate with an adhesive fixation system is laid, the markings are made on the floor, after which the excess is cut off with a grinder.
5. Places of swelling are gently pressed until they are completely eliminated. If the board does not give in, it must be shifted. To do this, you can use a glass jack, with which the panel is removed and mounted back.
6. The skirting boards are installed in place, while it is necessary to ensure that they completely cover the gaps near the walls.

Bloating prevention

So that there is no question of how to eliminate the swelling of the laminate from water or for other reasons, you need to take measures to prevent its occurrence.

Firstly, it is recommended to periodically cover the floor surface with a special wax that creates a protective moisture-resistant coating. After thoroughly cleaning the floor with a trowel, this agent is applied to the joints between the panels, then carefully polished with a dry cloth by hand. After 3-4 hours, polishing must be repeated, while it is not recommended to use the floor. Care must be taken to ensure that the wax only gets into the joints, avoiding the surface of the boards.

In addition to wax, there is a polish for the laminated surface, which, by creating a thin film on the coating, will protect the floor from swelling when wet cleaning or accidentally spilling large amounts of water on it.

In addition to using protective equipment, you need to take care of preventing the occurrence of deformations at the stage of choosing and installing laminate flooring: you should give preference to products from a trusted manufacturer, choose a high-class product with a waterproof coating, and at the stage of installing the coating, observe the gaps between the wall and the floor, ensuring reliable base masonry with a waterproofing layer.

An elementary way to protect against swelling is moderation during wet cleaning, timely response to spilled water on the floor and deformations that begin to occur.

Today, one of the most popular flooring is laminate. It has many advantages: a modern and aesthetic appearance, durability, a huge variety of types and qualities. But even when choosing a high quality coating, you can face some problems. For example, shortly after installation, the laminate swelled up, how to find out the reason and, most importantly, how to fix the swelling of the laminate, let's try to figure it out in this article. There may be several reasons.

Causes of laminate swelling after installation

Technological violations during installation

Moisture ingress

This refers to prolonged contact with water, for example, a breakthrough of pipes, batteries, or the use of water in unlimited quantities when cleaning. As a consequence, swelling and deformation of the web can occur.

Poor quality coating material

When purchasing cheap products, you need to understand what problems there may be in the future. The repair fee can be much higher than for previously purchased inexpensive, but low-quality material.

If the laminate is swollen from the water, what to do

Carefully remove the panels that have changed shape, deformed. Then carefully inspect the lamellas, the substrate. If water is present under the boards, wipe dry and replace the backing. If all this is done promptly, then the boards will fall into place and soon take the correct shape. This is not the case with the cheaper material, which absorbs moisture like blotting paper and swells quickly.

How to repair a bulged laminate? If it has been a long time after the ingress of water, the damaged panels must be replaced. Difficulty will arise in the selection of replacement panels if the initial installation was carried out several years ago.

Advice: If you do not have any spare boards left "in reserve" after the first installation, remove those that are in inconspicuous places (under the closet, sofa, etc.). And under the sofa, put a laminate in a slightly different shade.

How to fix a bulging laminate due to a violation of the installation process

It is possible to correct the deformation of the floor covering due to the lack of gaps between the walls and boards. Obstacles to the expansion of the lamellae must be removed. If they hit the wall, trim them carefully. Sequencing:

1. Remove the skirting boards.
2. Mark with chalk the places where the board rests against the wall.
3. Trim the marked areas creating a gap between the wall and the panel approximately 15mm. The resulting gap must be completely closed in the future with a plinth.

This problem can arise from heating pipes. It is recommended to make the distance from the pipe to the covering board the same dimensions, about 15mm.

Advice: the door lock should not be fixed on the lamellas - this will lead to their deformation in the future. For correct installation of the retainer, cut a hole in the laminate and attach it to the floor screed.

It is much easier and more correct to avoid the problems of deformation of the laminated coating than to be tormented by the question: how to save the swollen laminate after the problem has arisen. Try to follow these tips:

It is useful to use a special wax that will help protect the floor from damage due to wet cleaning or spilled water. Remove dust and dirt from the floor surface. Apply a small amount of the product with a spatula to the joints of the panels. After waxing, polish the floor with a soft dry cloth. The polishing procedure is repeated after a few hours. After that, refrain from walking on the floor for 10 hours. Be aware that wax fumes are harmful, so work with a respirator and ventilate the area.

As you already understood, there is no need to panic if the laminate is swollen. How to repair a swollen laminate, we hope, also became clear. If, nevertheless, you doubt that the acquired knowledge and skill are enough for you to carry out this repair, then invite a specialist who can professionally correct the situation.

We wish you to follow our recommendations so that this problem never touches you, and the laminate will serve you for a long time and faithfully.