How and from what you can make real asphalt on your own. DIY technologies and recipes for making high-quality asphalt

16 /04/2016

To make asphalt on your own, you need to know a few details that will help to avoid injury during work. The main materials for asphalt are crushed stone, resin and sand. In addition, polymeric materials are needed with which the surface is laid. At first glance, making asphalt on your own is not at all difficult, but before you start, you need to prepare for this process. First you need to find a container in which all the ingredients will be mixed. You also need a small fire, which must burn for at least 8 hours. In order to cool the suspension, you need to prepare about 100 liters of water. In order for all materials to stick together, you need to use a paste in the form of resin or bitumen.

Cold asphalt
Today there is another type of asphalt - cold, that is, polymer. The main advantage is that it can be installed at any temperature. Through testing, it was found that the viscosity of this asphalt is maintained even at -15. It is this fact that gives huge advantages to this type of asphalt, since it allows you to repair roads at any time and weather. For such laying, special equipment is used, including a service such as renting a single drum roller.

Hot asphalt
1. Preparation of the container.
First of all, you need to make a certain object that would perform the work of a concrete mixer. For this, you can use an iron barrel. On top of it you need to cover it with a lid, and at the bottom in the very center you need to drill a hole with a drill. Then you need to thread a thin pipe or rod and weld it with welding so that the barrel does not leak. To one of the edges of the pipe, you need to weld an L-shaped rod and you get a spit.
2. Pour crushed stone and sand into a homemade concrete mixer according to the 2: 1 principle and mix everything well. Do not use wet mixtures, as they dry out very quickly and are difficult to pick out.
3. Bitumen must be heated in another container. A bucket is best for this. Heating to boiling, add polymers. To make the bitumen elastic, you need to add a little shampoo. Due to boiling, it will burn out, and it will become much easier to stir the mixture.
4. Hot bitumen should be added to the barrel, where the sand and crushed stone are already warmed up. In no case should bitumen be poured into a cold barrel, as it will quickly harden.
5. Before pouring asphalt, the pits must be well cleaned. In addition, all unnecessary debris can be blown out with the help of a compressor. Having poured the hot mixture into the pits, you need to tamp the material with the help of a roller. In order for the tool not to stick to the bitumen, it must be moistened with water.

Garden paths should not only be beautiful, but also reliable. There are different materials for paving them, but many of them are expensive. The most economical option, presumably, will be the asphalting of the paths.

To understand how to lay asphalt with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of this process.

Asphalt types

Asphalt is allocated according to the method of obtaining:

  • Natural. Formed as a result of hypergenesis and oxidation of heavy petroleum fractions.
  • Artificial. It is obtained in the factory after mixing mineral powders, crushed stone, sand and bitumen.

Asphalt products are popular, so manufacturers are improving their composition and manufacturing methods. Thanks to this, new varieties of artificial raw materials appear.

Composition and application of hot asphalt

Consists of gravel, mineral powder, viscous bitumen and sand. During production, the components are mixed under the influence of high temperatures, and a homogeneous black mass is obtained.

It must be laid a few minutes after manufacturing, since when it cools, the level of adhesion to the surface deteriorates and a poor-quality coating is obtained.

Features of cold asphalt

It differs from other types in that it uses liquid bitumen, and not viscous. In the manufacture of a resinous mass, components are added that slow down the hardening of bitumen.

Cast road surface

The composition contains the same components as in hot asphalt. However, the cast contains twice as much mineral powder and bitumen. Distinctive features of the coating are small thickness and relief. Operational characteristics are 2-3 times higher than those of other types.

Colored asphalt

It can be classified as cold and hot asphalt, since it is produced in the same way. The composition includes colored dyes and crushed stone, from which the resinous mass got its name.

Asphalt crumb

There are two ways to make it: crushing and milling old asphalt layers. The quality of the crumb depends on the cutter and the composition of the processed mixture.

How to lay asphalt

Advantages and disadvantages of asphalt

The material is actively used to create summer cottages, since it has many useful qualities:

  • durability;
  • tolerance to sudden temperature changes;
  • dense coating;
  • resistance to deformation;
  • waterproofness.

There are also disadvantages that appear during the use of asphalt at a summer cottage:

  • on hot summer days, it evaporates, and harmful substances enter the human body;
  • the coating is not suitable for decorating the territory, as it does not fit well with garden styles;
  • if the styling is done incorrectly, then during severe frosts it will begin to quickly collapse.

Preparation for styling

Asphalt paving begins with preparation. It is performed in several stages.

Planning

First, the markings are made and the thickness of the asphalt crushed stone cushion is determined.

It is necessary to understand exactly what thickness will need to be laid

When renewing the yard cover, it is enough to pour 10–20 cm of sand and lay a 5–7 cm layer of asphalt. When paving the access road of a private house, a more durable surface is made. The thickness of the crushed stone cushion should not be less than 40 cm. The asphalt should be laid in two layers with a total thickness of 15–20 cm.

Earthworks

Before carrying out earthworks, the territory is checked for the presence of vegetation with large roots, which must be disposed of.

In the place where the asphalt will be laid, the top layer of the earth is removed with a shovel. When carrying out larger-scale works, it will not be possible to cope manually and will have to use special equipment. Excess soil is taken out so that during the rains it does not wash over the driveway. At the end of the process, the prepared land plot is compacted with a roller.

Preparation of the base

After the completion of the land work, crushed stone is poured into several layers on the compacted plot of land. First you need to pour the larger stones, and then put the small ones. Each layer of rubble has its own purpose:

  • small stone helps to evenly distribute the asphalt layer;
  • medium contributes to an even distribution of the load;
  • large serves as a drainage.

Coarse crushed stone is required for asphalt paving

During the laying of crushed stone for water drainage, a slight slope is made towards the ground or water reservoirs.

The base laid with crushed stone is compacted with a roller. He should ride on the surface about five times. When paving a large yard, it is recommended to use a roller with a mass of about 3-4 tons and a built-in vibration function. This will allow the surface to be effectively sealed. Sometimes special equipment cannot reach some places and instead they use a vibrating plate.

Asphalting

After creating the crushed stone base, you can start laying. For this, material of different grain sizes is used. It is difficult to prepare a high-quality resinous mixture at home, so it is better to purchase it. The advantages of using a proprietary mixture include:

  • saving time in production;
  • use of quality material.

To lay asphalt in the yard, you need to use fine-grained material. It fits into one layer 5–7 cm thick.

When creating an access road, the material is laid in several layers. Small asphalt is placed below, and large asphalt on top. The coating is compacted with a roller and poured with bitumen to better bond the layers.

Laying on old flooring

To figure out how to properly lay asphalt on the old surface, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the nuances.

The process of preparing the terrain changes slightly if the work is carried out on an asphalt surface. In this case, it is not necessary to carry out earthwork and it is enough to repair the old coating. It is completely cleaned of debris and dirt, after which the damage on the surface is filled with bitumen, and a new asphalt layer is laid.

Coating repair

Over time, paved paths are destroyed. The reasons for this can be different:

  • frozen water in cracks;
  • deformation of the surface under the influence of high temperature;
  • heavy loads on the asphalt.

You can also use concrete screed or paving slabs instead of asphalt.

Laying asphalt with your own hands is not an easy job, which is difficult to cope with without preparation. During asphalt paving, all technological nuances must be observed, on which the strength and durability of the pavement depends.

The main components of this material are crushed stone, ordinary river sand, bituminous resin, as well as polymer materials for laying on the surface. The latter component is not always used, as it is expensive, it is mainly used in the construction of highways and highways. Despite the fact that all the components can be found in the shed, it will be a little difficult to make a road surface in the country. You should seriously prepare for this process.

We need a container for mixing the "ingredients", a hearth of fire (you can have a fire) for 6-8 hours continuously, about 100 liters of water to cool the suspension, as well as one of the pastes to keep everything in a heap. Its role can be played by resin or bitumen (preferred). Let's look at the manufacturing instructions step by step.

Step 1 We prepare the container.

The first step is to make a prototype of a concrete mixer, since it will be irrational to “kill” an expensive and useful item. For our purposes, a metal barrel made of oil or diesel fuel, in which a branded product is sold, is suitable. If you don't have one, you can buy (or borrow) for a penny from any farmer or from the company itself, which spills oil into retail containers. They are often thrown into scrap metal as a waste product. We close the lid, drill holes in the center from the bottom. We pass a metal rod (pipe, corner, square, etc.) and weld it with inverter welding so that there is no leakage anywhere. We weld an L-shaped twig to one of the edges, a "spit" is obtained.

Step 2 We mix the components.

We pour crushed stone into our "concrete mixer", add a little sand there (2: 1), mix everything thoroughly. You cannot pick up wet building materials - they will immediately stick together, and it will be very difficult to pick them off from the metal walls.

Step 3 We heat bitumen and polymer additives.

In a separate container (it is best to take a 15-liter bucket), we need to heat the bitumen to a boil; for better elasticity, you can add shampoo to it. It then burns out, but it will be much more convenient to interfere. We also add polymers and plasticizers there.

Step 4 We mix everything together.

You don't need a lot of imagination here, we just take and add boiling bitumen to a pre-heated barrel with rubble and sand. Important: you cannot mix if the barrel and all the components are not warmed up - the bitumen will quickly cool down and it will be unrealistic to stir. For convenience, you can pre-add 50 liters to the water barrel and bring to a boil. After that, pour in bitumen and stir until the water evaporates.

The boiling point of water is 100 degrees, exactly as much as we need for bitumen to make it fluid and sticky. Remember not to overheat this material - it ignites at a temperature of 170 degrees, so watch out for the water. Just over - pour it out!

Step 5 Fill in the holes.

The area where you will be pouring asphalt must be thoroughly cleaned, preferably blown out with a compressor. After pouring in the hot mixture, you need to take a roller or any other tool (rammer) and compact the material. Be sure to moisten the metal of the tool with water so that it does not stick to the bitumen during ramming.

If you follow the instructions, making asphalt at home will be safe, fast and even very interesting!

What is cold asphalt and what is its peculiarity

Quite an interesting product, polymer asphalt, has recently entered the territory of Russia. Its peculiarity is that it can be laid at absolutely any temperature. Tests have shown excellent viscosity and stickiness even at -20C, which makes it possible to repair roads or make an entrance to the country house even in winter.

It contains flowable bitumen of the SG or MG 70/130 brand, which has a high viscosity. It also contains special plasticizers and modifiers that act similarly to "cold welding". Due to this, you can get an excellent result even at negative temperatures. The tracks will have increased durability and will last much longer than conventional asphalt. The technology has been introduced for more than 5 years in Russia, and now everyone can buy such material.

It makes no sense to look for a method on how to make asphalt with your own hands, since cold technology implies a high-tech manufacturing process under pressure and is not available at home. Its cost is much higher than normal road surface, therefore it is rarely used in industry. But every summer resident can buy the right amount for making paths in the garden or a small entrance for a car. You can buy it at a regular store. Installation does not require any special knowledge: just pour the mixture into the right place and compact in any convenient way, even with car tires.

How to make new asphalt from old pavement

Another very popular method to improve the site without much investment is to use the old road surface as the main raw material for the manufacture of a new one. To do this, we need about 100 kg of the old coating, which is thrown away during highway repairs, fresh bitumen, 10 kg of resin for elasticity and a hardener for concrete. Let's consider step by step what needs to be done.

we make a concrete mixer using a barrel for oil and a twig as described in the first section of the article.

Step 2 Grind the components.

It is necessary to break with a hammer all the large pieces left over from the old road. Check that the fraction of all components is fine, up to 40 mm. Add a little sand there, mix everything. We begin to heat the barrel with the old asphalt and sand placed in it, pour 60-70 liters of water, bring it to a boil and “cook the soup”.

Step 3 Prepare a solution for adding.

Now is the time to take care of the liquid term. Since the old road surface already contains a little bitumen, we will need 50% less of it. That is, we take about 10 kg of bitumen and 10 kg of resin per 100 kg of material, heat it to a boil. Then we pour all this into a heated barrel with other components, mix thoroughly with a metal rod.

Homemade asphalt from free components is ready. Now it remains to pour it into the previously cleaned pits or onto the site prepared for laying. Such material will serve you for more than one year and will be no worse than "branded" material.

Asphalt crumb consists of crushed materials. Often the material is used in various areas related to the road industry. It is most widespread in modern times, thanks to the advancement of technology, namely after the introduction of a special unit that is able to remove layers of perennial coating without damaging the base of the "pillow". In this article, we will describe in detail how to lay asphalt crumb with our own hands.

The asphalt crumb contains bitumen and recycled construction crushed stone. Depending on the classification, the fraction does not exceed a few cm. There is also a multicomponent crumb formed from the composition of crushed stone, sand, bitumen, and concrete. Experience shows that it is the multicomponent crumb that behaves most optimally in our conditions.

The crumb goes through a certain preparatory cycle before it turns into a finished product. The cycle forms several stages at once:

  • removing the old coating;
  • export to the plant;
  • splitting up;
  • sorting and shipping.

Where is this material used?

Asphalt crumb applications can be found in many areas. To a greater extent, it occurs when:

  • Construction of roads, highways;
  • Construction of small areas near country houses;
  • When sprinkling stadiums and play areas in parks and outdoor entertainment centers.

As you can see, it can be used in many areas; it is not uncommon for a crumb to be found in the forested areas of parks, where bicycles and footpaths are strewn. During the construction of new highways, ramps and roadsides are strengthened with asphalt chips, protecting the new roadway from deformation and vibrations. An interesting feature of recent years is that many construction companies use chips to fill the top layer of the base before laying the finishing floor. This serves as additional insulation from the damp foundation.


Today, the crumb has become popular among summer residents due to its relatively low cost. Modern village roads are equipped with crumbs. Indeed, in comparison with crushed stone or concrete roads similar in use, it has significant differences:

  • Possesses high resistance to moisture and various weather conditions;
  • Durable;
  • Not washed out by floods;
  • Significantly lower in cost, given the low production costs.

Asphalt crumb laying technology

In road construction, this technology began to be used relatively recently, but in a short time it fully confirmed its advantage. As mentioned above, asphalt crumb is a secondary product, or rather a consequence of the multilayer removal of the old road surface, followed by crushing. Despite the low cost of production, the material stands out for its weighty strength and amenable to processing.

Many people call one of the main advantages of such a material the possibility of dense filling of all voids and cracks in the coating. Even with time and gradual tamping with the help of cars, such a coating only becomes stronger and stronger. Due to dense paving, the road is practically not subject to erosion.

It is incredibly easy to work with such material, the main thing is to know the main cycle and the laying technology, which include several successive stages:

  1. The first thing to do is to clear the masonry area as efficiently as possible, and then lay the so-called "pillow". In each specific case, it may differ depending on the specification of the future road. For example, you can use rubble, concrete, or broken bricks. In some cases, it is justified to stack several layers of the listed materials.
  2. After that, the surface must be carefully leveled using special road technology.
  3. Next, pour out the material of the future coating itself and level it over the entire plane.
  4. The last stage includes compaction with rollers. After all these steps, the road is ready for use.

Note: here it should be noted that it is not recommended to use rollers weighing more than 10 tons for such coatings. And if you pre-fill the canvas with bitumen, you can achieve better strength and impermeability of the coating.

Considering the main advantage of such material as its low cost, more and more people are filling roads on their sites from crumbs. In addition, it is gradually replacing classic materials, such as paving slabs and paving stones, used to equip playgrounds and park areas.

When self-laying by hand, you need to similarly preserve the technology and stages of work in order to achieve a positive result.

Note: pay special attention to the laying of communications. Consider the fact that sooner or later you will have to change pipes and the like, which will accordingly lead to the destruction of the canvas.

When the size of the plot has been determined, we order about 10-12 tons of asphalt chips per 100 squares. Consider the amount of work. If the area is really large, it is better to rent a small ice rink. As a rule, a plant selling material will gladly lend its equipment for use, of course for an additional fee.

When the material is ordered, you can start preparing the site, namely the removal of the top layer of soil. Keep in mind that you will have to remove at least 20 cm. As a result, a characteristic trench is formed. If desired, a layer of geotextile can be placed on the bottom, it will avoid subsidence of the soil.

A mound (pillow) of rubble and sand is laid on top of the geotextile or earth. Each layer is at least 3-5 cm. In principle, if high pressure is not planned on the site, you can do without these materials.

Note: the volume of soil is large, so take care of the removal of the soil in advance.

After all the preparatory work, you can safely proceed to dumping the crumbs, this must be done sequentially. For convenience, you should get a couple of assistants, because it will be difficult to cope with such a volume of work alone. The crumb is poured out in small "batches" to avoid the formation of voids. If the area is large, it is better to use a roller. There is nothing difficult in managing it, but at the same time you will save a lot of time and effort. To achieve the strength of the coating, a bitumen emulsion must be applied first. Thanks to bitumen, it will only be stronger, and will also become resistant to temperature changes during the cold period.

The technology for paving on roadsides and exits is identical and follows the same pattern. The material is considered the best alternative for crushed stone and sand, but in comparison with the classic coating, it lacks strength, after all, the crumb is loose in structure.

Important points

Working with asphalt crumbs is simple, but there are certain points to be aware of. Asphalt chips must be laid in several layers - this is a mandatory requirement for large roads. The first layer is at least 7 cm. It should sink well after tamping. After that, only the second "cake" is poured, also at least 7 cm. If the material is placed in parks or in local areas, such as entrances to a house or garage, then it is permissible to use one layer, but not less than 10 cm.

Historians claim that the first mentions of something similar to asphalt concrete appeared in the 6th century BC in Babylon. But the technologies of those times were not reliable, plus unnecessarily expensive, as a result, such roads were forgotten until the twentieth century. The construction of asphalt concrete pavements in Russia began in 1928 and to this day it is predominant.

Photo of the laying of a country road.

What it is

This composition is used everywhere, from the laying of federal highways and ending with the arrangement of city squares and garden paths in private construction.

According to GOST and SNiP, the arrangement of the asphalt concrete pavement can be different.

But the general composition of the mixture has remained unchanged for more than 100 years:

  • First of all, bitumen is included as a binder..
  • Sand and large mineral fillers must be present to some extent..
  • Various mineral or synthetic additives round out the list..

At the time when the composition was being developed, natural bitumen was used, but since there is little of it in nature, an artificial analogue was synthesized based on oil products, which is still successfully used by road builders all over the world.

The sand is taken from quarry, as for the coarse filler, then along with various types of crushed stone for concrete, crushed rocks and some crystallized slags are widely used.

Natural mineral or synthetic additives are used to increase certain useful properties of the coating. In particular, frost resistance, road grip level, viscosity index and much more are increased.

Bituminous resin.

What formulations are produced

The assortment of the presented types is quite wide, depending on the percentage of the components, as well as on what additives were used, experts divide asphalt into the following varieties.

Fine-grained asphalt.

  1. For the arrangement of sidewalks, garden paths or the inner space of city yards, sand compositions are used.
  2. Fine-grained compositions cover city streets with medium and high traffic volumes.
  3. Coarse asphalt is used as an underlay in multi-layer paving technology.
  4. Polymer-bitumen coatings are used for the installation of bridges, large parking lots or road junctions. They have increased strength and durability.
  5. Crushed stone-mastic asphalt types are considered the strongest; they are used for laying federal highways and high-speed autobahns with increased traffic loads.
  6. For stadiums, running or cycling paths, as well as other sports facilities, there is a rubber-bitumen coating.

Coating cut.

Making asphalt at home

The manufacture of pavement is considered to be difficult and inaccessible. But, nevertheless, there are enthusiasts who are ready to experiment. Of course, such trains are not designed for the federal highway, but at the dacha it is quite possible to prepare such asphalt with your own hands.

Advice: from experience, we can say that a mixture prepared in a homemade way, of course, is suitable for arranging a garden concrete path, but more often it is used to repair potholes on an already finished surface.

Laying temperature of the composition.

Classic recipe

For cooking, we need ordinary river or quarry sand, bitumen tar or bitumen and fine crushed stone. The equipment will need a metal barrel and a bucket.

It is better to cook asphalt over a fire, as it is unsafe and expensive to use gas.

  • Initially, we fill in crushed stone with sand in a ratio of 2: 1 and mix well. All this should be filled with water and hung over the fire.
  • At the same time, we prepare the bitumen base. To do this, we take a metal bucket and heat the bitumen in it to a boil, synthetic polymers can be added as a plasticizer, but it is cheaper to use shampoo or any detergent.
  • When the resin has warmed up, and the water in the crushed stone barrel has also boiled, they need to be combined. Water is needed so that crushed stone with sand does not heat up above 100 ° C. Next, this broth must be stirred, maintaining a boil until all the water has boiled away. While the solution is hot, it can be poured.

Laying by hand.

Important: be careful, at 80 ºС bitumen melts, and at 100 - 120 ºС it boils. But already at 170 ºС bitumen can ignite.

Actually, in order to prevent such a fire, we use water.

Using old pavement

Demolishing asphalt pavements and substrates can be a good material for making new asphalt.

The technology is somewhat similar to the previous version, but with some amendments.

  • The very dismantling of the asphalt concrete pavement is carried out by the old-fashioned method, using a sledgehammer and other percussion tools. Only the top layer of asphalt bound with bitumen is used, the road cushion does not need to be touched.
  • The old road surface is broken into pieces with a fraction of no more than 40 mm. For 100 kg of old asphalt, 10 kg of bitumen are taken.
  • After that, the crushed substance must be poured with water and boiled in a barrel until melted. Further, the technology repeats the above-described option. The heated bitumen is combined with the molten asphalt and the water is evaporated.

Cold asphalt

Cold asphalt.

The two methods described above are well suited for economical repair of damaged asphalt in the yard or near the yard. If you need to cover an area with a large square, then we recommend using cold asphalt.

This coating appeared on the market of our country about 5 years ago. The principle of operation here is similar to the well-known cold welding. For bonding, modified bitumen is used, so that it can be laid even at sub-zero temperatures. The instructions are on the packaging.

Manual vibratory rammer.

The only drawback of this material is its significant price. But, as you know, the asphalt from the plant is released hot and should also be installed hot. Therefore, for remote locations, cold polymer asphalt is the only alternative.

Important: when repairing a road surface, the problem is a high-quality joint seam arrangement in an asphalt concrete surface.
Cold polymer-based asphalt completely solves this problem, since it reliably adheres to any bitumen-based composition.

Cold asphalt cut.

Coating laying rules

The construction of asphalt concrete pavements is a responsible business and it is not so important whether you will lay it yourself or hire professionals. Laying and acceptance of asphalt concrete pavement is carried out in accordance with SNiP 2.07.01-89, as well as in accordance with a number of GOSTs.

Only a specialist can understand these documents, therefore we have set out the main provisions of these rules and regulations in a more understandable language.

Medium-duty road paving scheme.

Preparatory stage

Any work begins with markup. You need to be clear about where the asphalt will be laid. Where the curb will be mounted, and what it will be. It is also very important to make sure in advance that the drainage, drainage system is fully assembled and drainage systems are installed.

All work on the installation of underground communications by this time should be completely finished. If you are equipping a parking lot or access roads to an office, it is better to find out in advance where the city communications pass, since, if necessary, municipal services will rip off your coverage and may even impose a fine.

Above, it was mentioned about the varieties and purposes of existing types of asphalt. So, at the preparation stage, you need to choose what kind of material you are going to lay.

Work with a vibrating plate.

Important: the estimate for the device of an asphalt concrete pavement should contain not only data on the cost of the material and the amount of work.
It will be useful to include transportation costs in it, as well as leave a column for unforeseen expenses, such as a permit for work from the relevant official or service.

If a footpath or a site with occasional passage of cars is laid, then the crushed stone and gravel cushion can be made up to 15 cm thick.The thickness of the asphalt concrete pavement will be within 4 - 5 cm.

If you equip a gas station or any access roads along which, with a high degree of probability, heavy equipment will periodically pass, then the thickness of the gravel cushion will be about 25 - 35 cm.Plus, the asphalt itself is laid in at least 2 layers.

Heavy roller.

After the marking, the arrangement of the so-called trough or foundation pit begins for the road. In urban areas or in private construction, as a rule, roads and sites are made at approximately the same level, so the soil must be selected completely for the entire thickness of the "road pie". Federal highways are being equipped using a slightly different technology, but we will not dwell on it.

When the soil is selected, the entire site must be well compacted, this is done with a roller or vibrating plate. Pay attention to the presence of trees nearby, the roots can break the asphalt over time, so, if possible, it is better to remove them immediately. Although the cost of the work will be slightly increased, we recommend covering the soil with geotextiles so that vegetation does not break through the coating.

Mobile plant for thermal profiling of asphalt.

Important: at this stage, the curbs are installed, they play the role of a kind of formwork for the "road pie."

In this regard, it is necessary to immediately plan the drains for water drainage.

Now you can start filling the crushed stone pillow. For footpaths with a cushion thickness of 10 - 15 cm, 1 layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 30 - 40 mm is sufficient. More powerful bases are stacked in several layers.

The bottom layer is used for drainage in the event of a rise in groundwater, it is filled with large crushed stone with a fraction of 40 - 70 mm. The next layer with a fraction of 20 - 40 mm will be responsible for even distribution of the load on the road base.

Reinforcement of the road with a polymer mesh.

The final backfill layer is made of fine gravel with a grain size of 5 - 20 mm. He will also be responsible for load distribution, but in addition he will transform the pillow into a dense, monolithic structure.

All laid layers must be tamped tightly. For serious surfaces, road rollers weighing from 2 to 10 tons are used. Each ball of dumping is compacted separately, the roller must be walked on it at least 5 times, plus modern road rollers have a vibropress function, which increases efficiency several times. During the tamping process, the surface should be regularly watered.

Advice: in the process of tamping, you must immediately take into account the angle of inclination of the road, on average, it is about 1º per 1 running meter.
To do this, periodically check the markings or level data.

Laying of the federal highway.

Asphalt laying

After finishing the compaction of the cushion, you can proceed directly to the laying of asphalt. As mentioned earlier, for sidewalks and adjacent areas, it is enough to lay the fine-grained composition with a layer of up to 50 mm. Heavy road rollers are also not required, you can get by with a light roller or vibrating plate.

Note!
This type of coating according to SNiP is not recommended to be laid in resting places.

More serious objects are masked in 2 layers. In this case, the lower layer is laid with coarse-grained asphalt at a level of 40 - 50 mm. A fine-grained composition is almost immediately superimposed on it, which in most cases is the finishing one.

Currently, technologies have been developed, according to which a reinforcing mesh made of polymer materials should be laid between the layers of hot asphalt. As a result, the durability and strength of such a road increases significantly. This technology is used when laying federal highways and high-traffic roads.

Complex road laying.

Important: the restoration of asphalt concrete pavements in our country is most often done only with the help of hot bitumen, although in accordance with GOST thermal profiling of asphalt concrete pavements should be performed.

This procedure provides for preliminary heating of the roadway to a depth of 2 - 5 cm.

The mixture should be delivered to the site hot, as a rule, it is brought by dump trucks with a carrying capacity of 7 - 20 tons. After that, the asphalt is evenly distributed by hand or by machine along the plane of the road, observing the slope. On average, 1 ton of asphalt with a thickness of 40 mm is consumed per 10m² of roadbed.

Construction of asphalt concrete pavements is a meteorological process. In the cold season, that is, at temperatures below +5 ºС, it is generally not recommended to carry out work. Plus, when it rains or in damp weather, the styling quality is significantly reduced, since the composition is moistened and cools faster.

The unit for removing the old coating.

Output

We have outlined the general basic principles of quality asphalt paving, but science does not stand still and technologies are being supplemented and improved. In the video in this article, you can see the process of laying asphalt in more detail.

Source: https://masterabetona.ru/vidy/718-asfaltobetonnoe-pokrytie

Tips from experienced builders on how to make quality asphalt with your own hands. DIY asphalt composition

https: //www..com/watch? v = ppC4e1V4uUk

The main components of this material are crushed stone, ordinary river sand, bituminous resin, as well as polymer materials for laying on the surface. The latter component is not always used, as it is expensive, it is mainly used in the construction of highways and highways. Despite the fact that all the components can be found in the shed, it will be a little difficult to make a road surface in the country. You should seriously prepare for this process.

We need a container for mixing the "ingredients", a hearth of fire (you can have a fire) for 6-8 hours continuously, about 100 liters of water to cool the suspension, as well as one of the pastes to keep everything in a heap. Its role can be played by resin or bitumen (preferred). Let's look at the manufacturing instructions step by step.

Step 1 Prepare the container.

The first step is to make a prototype of a concrete mixer, since it will be irrational to “kill” an expensive and useful item. For our purposes, a metal barrel made of oil or diesel fuel, in which a branded product is sold, is suitable.

If you don't have one, you can buy (or borrow) for a penny from any farmer or from the company itself, which spills oil into retail containers. They are often thrown into scrap metal as a waste product. We close the lid, drill holes in the center from the bottom with an electric drill. We pass a metal rod (pipe, corner, square, etc.

) and weld it with inverter welding so that there is no leakage anywhere. We weld an L-shaped twig to one of the edges, a "spit" is obtained.

Step 2Mix the components.

We pour crushed stone into our "concrete mixer", add a little sand there (2: 1), mix everything thoroughly. You cannot pick up wet building materials - they will immediately stick together, and it will be very difficult to pick them off from the metal walls.

Step 3 We heat bitumen and polymer additives.

In a separate container (it is best to take a 15-liter bucket), we need to heat the bitumen to a boil; for better elasticity, you can add shampoo to it. It then burns out, but it will be much more convenient to interfere. We also add polymers and plasticizers there.

Step 4Mix everything together.

You don't need a lot of imagination here, we just take and add boiling bitumen to a pre-heated barrel with rubble and sand. Important: you cannot mix if the barrel and all the components are not warmed up - the bitumen will quickly cool down and it will be unrealistic to stir. For convenience, you can pre-add 50 liters to the water barrel and bring to a boil. After that, pour in bitumen and stir until the water evaporates.

The boiling point of water is 100 degrees, exactly as much as we need for bitumen to make it fluid and sticky. Remember not to overheat this material - it ignites at a temperature of 170 degrees, so watch out for the water. Just over - pour it out!

Step 5Fill in the holes.

The area where you will be pouring asphalt must be thoroughly cleaned, preferably blown out with a compressor. After pouring in the hot mixture, you need to take a roller or any other tool (rammer) and compact the material. Be sure to moisten the metal of the tool with water so that it does not stick to the bitumen during ramming.

If you follow the instructions, making asphalt at home will be safe, fast and even very interesting!

What is cold asphalt and what is its peculiarity

Quite an interesting product, polymer asphalt, has recently entered the territory of Russia. Its peculiarity is that it can be laid at absolutely any temperature. Tests have shown excellent viscosity and stickiness even at -20C, which makes it possible to repair roads or make an entrance to the country house even in winter.

It contains flowable bitumen of the SG or MG 70/130 brand, which has a high viscosity. It also contains special plasticizers and modifiers that act similarly to "cold welding". Due to this, you can get an excellent result even at negative temperatures. The tracks will have increased durability and will last much longer than conventional asphalt. The technology has been introduced for more than 5 years in Russia, and now everyone can buy such material.

It makes no sense to look for a method on how to make asphalt with your own hands, since cold technology implies a high-tech manufacturing process under pressure and is not available at home. Its cost is much higher than normal road surface, therefore it is rarely used in industry.

But every summer resident can buy the right amount for making paths in the garden or a small entrance for a car. You can buy it at a regular store. Installation does not require any special knowledge: just pour the mixture into the right place and compact in any convenient way, even with car tires.

How to make new asphalt from old pavement

Another very popular method to improve the site without much investment is to use the old road surface as the main raw material for the manufacture of a new one. To do this, we need about 100 kg of the old coating, which is thrown away during highway repairs, fresh bitumen, 10 kg of resin for elasticity and a hardener for concrete. Let's consider step by step what needs to be done.

we make a concrete mixer using an electric drill, an oil barrel and a twig as described in the first section of the article.

Step 2 Grind the components.

It is necessary to break with a hammer all the large pieces left over from the old road. Check that the fraction of all components is fine, up to 40 mm. Add a little sand there, mix everything. We begin to heat the barrel with the old asphalt and sand placed in it, pour 60-70 liters of water, bring it to a boil and “cook the soup”.

Step 3 Prepare the addition solution.

Now is the time to take care of the liquid term. Since the old road surface already contains a little bitumen, we will need 50% less of it. That is, we take about 10 kg of bitumen and 10 kg of resin per 100 kg of material, heat it to a boil. Then we pour all this into a heated barrel with other components, mix thoroughly with a metal rod.

Homemade asphalt from free components is ready. Now it remains to pour it into the previously cleaned pits or onto the site prepared for laying. Such material will serve you for more than one year and will be no worse than "branded" material.

Source: https://sevparitet.ru/sostav/sostav-asfalt-svoimi-rukami.html

How to make asphalt yourself at home

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1 Topic from Bored 2013-04-14 20:23:06

  • Bored
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  • Registered: 2013-02-06
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Topic: DIY asphalt making

Gentlemen, are any of you familiar with the process and technique of making asphalt at home? In particular, I ask you to fully disclose the topic: what should be the composition, the method of preparation and what tools will be needed. Thanks!

2 Reply from Artem Gudkov 2013-04-14 20:31:05

  • Artem Gudkov
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Re: Making asphalt with your own hands

Now you can just buy asphalt, only have time to pay money, they will bring it hot, you just have time to level it yourself. Although it is expensive, it doesn’t take much of it. And to cook yourself - only ruin your own health.

3 Reply from Master 2013-04-14 20:38:46

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How to make asphalt with your own hands

To make asphalt on your own, you need to know a few details that will help to avoid injury during work. The main materials for asphalt are crushed stone, resin and sand. In addition, polymeric materials are needed with which the surface is laid.

At first glance, making asphalt on your own is not at all difficult, but before you start, you need to prepare for this process. First you need to find a container in which all the ingredients will be mixed. You also need a small fire, which must burn for at least 8 hours. In order to cool the suspension, you need to prepare about 100 liters of water.

In order for all materials to stick together, you need to use a paste in the form of resin or bitumen.

Today there is another type of asphalt - cold, that is, polymer. The main advantage is that it can be installed at any temperature. Through testing, it was found that the viscosity of this asphalt is maintained even at -15. It is this fact that gives huge advantages to this type of asphalt, since it allows you to repair roads at any time and weather. For such laying, special equipment is used, including a service such as renting a single drum roller.

1. Preparation of the container.

First of all, you need to make a certain object that would perform the work of a concrete mixer. For this, you can use an iron barrel. On top of it you need to cover it with a lid, and at the bottom in the very center you need to drill a hole with a drill. Then you need to thread a thin pipe or rod and weld it with welding so that the barrel does not leak. To one of the edges of the pipe, you need to weld an L-shaped rod and you get a spit.

2. Pour crushed stone and sand into a homemade concrete mixer according to the 2: 1 principle and mix everything well. Do not use wet mixtures, as they dry out very quickly and are difficult to pick out.

3. Bitumen must be heated in another container. A bucket is best for this. Heating to boiling, add polymers. To make the bitumen elastic, you need to add a little shampoo. Due to boiling, it will burn out, and it will become much easier to stir the mixture.

4. Hot bitumen should be added to the barrel, where the sand and crushed stone are already warmed up. In no case should bitumen be poured into a cold barrel, as it will quickly harden.

5. Before pouring asphalt, the pits must be well cleaned. In addition, all unnecessary debris can be blown out with the help of a compressor. Having poured the hot mixture into the pits, you need to tamp the material with the help of a roller. In order for the tool not to stick to the bitumen, it must be moistened with water.

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DIY asphalt: manufacturing and laying

Many owners of suburban real estate admit the idea of ​​making asphalt with their own hands. However, in order to obtain a reliable road surface, it is very important to take into account the operational characteristics of the site, as well as comply with all the requirements of the technological process to obtain a high-quality road surface.

What is asphalt

Asphalt, or more precisely asphalt concrete, is a multi-component material that includes the following ingredients:

  • Sand. It is required as a binder, and in some cases (with the addition of cement) it can increase the mechanical strength of the roadway.
  • Crushed stone. It is a reinforcing component and does not allow the finished seams to crack under the influence of significant loads.
  • Bituminous resin. Acts as a paste for connecting all components, and also provides additional waterproofing of the canvas.

Sometimes polymer additives are introduced into asphalt concrete that can ensure its high performance, however, due to their high cost, they are used extremely rarely.

In order for do-it-yourself asphalt to fully fulfill the functions assigned to it, it is very important to observe the technology for manufacturing the material and adhere to the recommendations for laying. The first step in this direction, of course, is preparation.

So, what we need is to prepare all the necessary components (sand, crushed stone, bitumen pitch); to provide the possibility of "cooking" the composition: you will need a large metal container and a heat source (usually a fire is used). And also stock up on a large volume of water as a means of protection (to limit burning).

Now let's talk about everything in order.

The first thing to take care of is to make a container for mixing the components, because agree to use a traditional concrete mixer for the production of asphalt is an unjustified luxury.

As a container, it is quite justified to use a metal barrel (150-200 liters), to the bottom of which it is necessary to weld an L-shaped handle and ensure that the device can be rotated around its own axis. By the way, you can read about how to make a concrete mixer yourself here.

In parallel with this, construction bitumen should be melted in a separate container (usually a large bucket is used). When performing this work, you need to be very scrupulous and take into account the possibility of ignition of the resin (sand and water should be near if extinguishing is necessary).

The next step is mixing bitumen with sand and crushed stone, for which the heated resin is simply poured into a barrel with bulk substances and thoroughly mixed (by turning). However, when performing this part of the work, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the barrel and the components in it must be well heated. After all, otherwise the material will quickly cool down, and it will not be possible to perform high-quality mixing.

A good indicator of the readiness of the solution is water. After all, if you pour hot water into a barrel with bitumen, sand and crushed stone, and then heat up the entire substance, you can achieve good performance. Well, the readiness of the asphalt will be indicated by the complete evaporation of the liquid from the barrel.

Material laying process

Of course, pouring asphalt concrete made with your own hands onto an unprepared base is not justified. In view of this, before laying the material, it is advisable to clean the place of work from debris, dust, or even blow it with air.

After that, the heated asphalt is poured onto the required area and compacted using a hand roller or rammer. It should be noted that to minimize adhesion of the material to the tool, it is advisable to moisten the latter with water.

After hardening, the asphalt is usable.

Features of cold asphalt paving

Recently, more and more often, owners of suburban real estate are using cold-type asphalt for the arrangement of adjoining territories.

This product is sold in a ready-to-use form and is a mixture of flowable bitumen, polymer fillers and modifiers (provide the hardening process).

Moreover, it is such a product that can be easily laid at low temperatures, which cannot be done with traditional material. Whereas the performance and price parameters of this material are very higher than those of conventional asphalt.

The method of laying cold asphalt practically does not differ from the above-described option and boils down to the fact that the finished material is poured out in the required place and rammed using rammers or car wheels.

Recently, more and more often, after the repair of the road surface, the old (cut) asphalt concrete remains by specialized services. It turns out with its help you can also make a high-quality road surface.

And all that is needed for this is to break the pieces of old asphalt into small fractions and lay them in the required place with a layer of about 10 cm. In the end, the stony base should be rolled with a road roller.

It should be noted that these works should be carried out in warm weather in order for the resin in the cut asphalt to melt a little and fill all the voids.

And in the final we offer a corresponding video.