Sheathing of the house with a basement. How to veneer and decorate the basement of the house - a description of possible materials and work technology for plaster

The basement of the house performs not so much a decorative function as a practical one. In many cases, it serves to reduce heat loss (it is specially insulated), and also prevents the spread of atmospheric and underground moisture to the walls of the house. It also transfers the load from the walls to the foundation - if the foundation is strip or slab. Therefore, the cladding of the basement of the house should be not only beautiful, but also functional. In accordance with this task, the finishing material is also selected.

When to start finishing the plinth

It is best to finish the basement after the blind area has been made around the house. In this case, the finishing material will hang over the track. As a result, even the most oblique rain or streams of water flowing down the walls will not be able to get between the wall and the blind area - water enters the path at a distance of several centimeters from the junction. Namely, it is through this junction that water penetrates to the foundation, bringing dampness and other problems.

You need to start facing the basement of the house after the blind area has been made around the house

One more point. Many are thinking about whether to insulate the basement or not. If you want to save on heating, the answer is to insulate it, as well as the blind area. The unit for warming and facing the basement - one of the options - is shown in the photo below.

When installing an insulated basement, EPSP plates are laid for finishing

When using the basement floor as a residential one, there are no questions about insulation, since the answer is unambiguous - of course, to insulate. But even if you don't have a subfloor, heating costs will be much lower and the floor in your home will be much warmer.

How to veneer the basement of the house

There are a lot of materials for finishing the basement. The main requirements are moisture resistance, frost resistance, strength. The following materials meet these requirements:

  • Natural stones (flagstone) sawn into plates or chipped, the so-called "torn stone":
    • sandstone (plastushka);
    • granite;
    • marble;
    • slate;
    • dolomite;
    • shugnit.
  • Small cobblestone.
  • Large river pebbles.
  • Clinker tiles (clinker bricks).
  • Paving slabs.
  • Porcelain stoneware.
  • Finishing brick.
  • Facade panels, basement siding, PVC panels (these are all names of one material).
  • Plaster (decorative and "under a fur coat").
  • Decking.

Some of them cost a lot, some are insignificant, but all of them can be used. They choose the material based on financial capabilities and previously used finishing materials - an aesthetic component also plays an important role. The technologies for finishing plinths with different materials will be discussed.

Preparation and insulation

First of all, if the existing base is uneven, its surface is leveled with plaster. The mortar for plastering the basement is used cement-sand: for 1 part of cement (Portland cement M 400), 4 parts of clean building sand, preferably river sand, are taken. For greater plasticity, you can add a little lime or liquid soap (50-80 g per bucket of solution). The solution should be of medium thickness so as not to crawl off the wall. There is another option - to use a special composition. For example, such as in the video.

If then the laying of tiles, stone or other similar material follows, after leveling the mortar, notches are made on its surface with the tip of a trowel (spatula). They are applied in the form of a grid over the entire surface. These shallow grooves will provide the necessary support for the finish.

If the base is insulated, notches are not needed. EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) or polystyrene boards are glued directly to the plastered surface. They are lightweight and adhere well to glue. Their surface is coated with diluted tile glue and pressed against the plaster. Finishing materials are then attached to the surface prepared in this way.

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Painting, plaster and "fur coat"

In principle, if the plaster is well leveled, after the mortar has dried, the surface can be painted and it will stop there. This is an inexpensive but viable option. If the paint was taken from the front, which is intended for use on the street, for a couple of years the base will look good. Then you will have to remove the old paint and paint again - to maintain the appearance.

The next way is to apply a layer of decorative on top of ordinary plaster. And again, choose those formulations that are intended for external use. They can be tinted in the desired color or take colored ones. The only drawback is that the plasters are often porous and you have to brush off the splashes of dirt that get on the walls during bad weather with a brush, and sometimes with a detergent.

Types of decorative plaster for finishing the basement: beautiful and relatively inexpensive

Until now, in some localities, the method of finishing the basement "under a fur coat" is popular. This is when the solution is applied not in an even layer, but in small fragments. Previously, they did it with a broom of twigs. They dipped it in a liquid solution, hit the stick with the handle so that the spray flew onto the wall. This is how they made a "fur coat" - a finish with a torn surface. Today there are special plastering machines powered by a compressor. With their help, such a finish is easier to make.

Decorating the basement of a house using materials in the form of slabs or tiles is technologically more difficult. To prevent it from falling off, you need to know some subtleties.

Read how to brick a house here.

How to fix porcelain stoneware or clinker tiles

If heavy materials such as porcelain stoneware or clinker bricks are simply planted on glue, on a plastered surface with grooves, they may adhere normally. And they can even stand for a while. Even for several years. But then they will begin to fall off along with the solution. Especially in places where there are no grooves or they are not deep enough. To improve adhesion, an impregnation layer can be applied to improve adhesion (adhesion), but this is not a guarantee, especially if the material is heavy.

The same picture will be if the materials are glued directly to the insulation. The surface is smooth, easy to glue. But after a while, the finish will drop. Faster than a plastered surface. The video is about this.

To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to fix a metal painting net, preferably galvanized. It is fastened with dowels, putting a piece of galvanized steel on the dowel-nail, the size of which is larger than the size of the cell. Fastened at the top, bottom and staggered in the middle. It turns out a reliable basis for material of any weight.

The glue is applied to the base and tiles. On the tile, remove with a notched trowel, put it in place, tapping the handle of the trowel, put it in place, leveling the plane. The distance between the tiles is maintained using crosses, only their thickness is taken significant 3-5 mm.

In general, the laying technology is similar to laying tiles. The only difference is that the glue must be special for outdoor use. The second difference: finishing materials for the basement begin to be laid from below: they are heavy and need support. You lean on the bottom row on the blind area, on it - the second, etc.

Decorating the basement of the house with natural stone (shell, granite, dolomite, slate)

No matter how attractive the artificial shiny surfaces may seem, the rough stone for some reason evokes great sympathy. But laying a foundation made of rubble is difficult and not everyone can do it so well that a house can stand on it. But anyone can decorate the finished monolithic or prefabricated foundation with natural stone with their own hands, especially if at least part of the house construction work was done personally.

It is clear that no one will fix whole stones: the finish will be too heavy, and very voluminous. Therefore, they invented a stone to slab or chop. Depending on the technology, either an even "flagstone" is obtained - with almost flat surfaces, or a "torn stone" with an uneven face. Sometimes these materials are cut into identical rectangles, sometimes they are left in the form of uneven plates, but in any case, this is a natural stone and the finish of the basement of the house from it turns out to be beautiful and waterproof.

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There is this material made from expensive stones, for example - marble, there is cheaper - slate, dolomite, shugnite, lemesite, granite, etc. They look very impressive. Especially if it is a torn stone, although flagstone sometimes looks no worse.

Part of the offer of natural finishing stone in a specialist store

The preparation of the surface will be exactly the same: it is best to fill a painting net on the plastered base, and on it, lay the stone plates on the glue. If they are even - a natural stone with processed edges - the laying technology will repeat one to one the one described above.

If the stone has ragged edges, finishing the basement of the house becomes more difficult: it is necessary to select plates of such a shape so that the seams are not too large. When using this option for a finishing stone, a grinder with a stone disc will be needed: most likely, you will have to file the plates of the lower and upper rows. Correction will also be needed when shaping the corners. See the video for an example of such technology.

There is a second way. The plastered surface of the base is first coated with a compound to improve adhesion (adhesion), then fragments of the finish are installed on it on the glue. They are fixed in a given position using cuttings of the same stone or pieces of materials of the required size. The seams remain unfilled. After the glue has "grabbed", the seams are filled with a thin solution from a construction syringe, rubbing and vomiting as necessary.

In any case, the glue that gets on the finish must be removed in a timely manner. It will be very difficult to do this with a frozen one, and the glue looks far from attractive.

Sometimes, for a clearer pattern, the seams between the stone plates are painted with dark paint. Then the surface is covered with a protective impregnation. It gives the stone a light sheen and also often increases its water repellency.

For an example of cladding a basement with natural stone using the second technology, see the following video.

About the cladding of the house with siding is written here.

Facing with a boulder or small cobblestone

You don't have to buy a boulder or cobblestone. It can be collected on a river or on a pebble beach on the sea. Rolled stones are chosen flatter - round ones are more difficult to "mount". The operating procedure and all other subtleties are almost the same as in the case of natural stone finishing. The only difference is that these stones must be washed in water with detergent before use. Firstly, the water in our bodies of water can have oils and they need to be removed, and secondly, they can be in clay or algae, which can cause the finish to fall off.

To make everything look organic, you can first lay out the "picture" of the cobblestones on the path next to the place where you will cover the basement. They have different shades and their random combinations are not always attractive. Having laid out everything side by side, you will have an idea of ​​what will turn out as a result.

Watch the video about the features of finishing the basement with cobblestones.

How to install plastic (PVC) plinth panels

This type of finish is called differently: basement or facade panels, basement siding. They have a varied appearance: for different types of stone, tiles, bricks.

To install PVC panels on the plinth, you need to assemble the frame. It is made from a wooden bar 50 * 50 mm. Since the finish will be outdoors, the wood must be protected with impregnations that prevent rotting and protect from pests.

Pile foundations are widely used. This is due to the low cost of the device and the possibility of using it even on soft soils. But during construction, a problem arises: how to close the basement of a house, arranged on screw piles?

The buildings located on the considered supports have a ventilated underground. A grillage is provided for tying the piles. It connects free-standing elements into one system. The grillage can be made of concrete or metal. When constructing wooden or frame houses, the harness is made of wood.

The plinth cladding will be attached to the piles or walls of the house. To complete it, you will need to make a frame or crate. The most convenient way to make and fix wooden planks. Their sections will depend on the pitch of the piles and the mass of the cladding material used.

There are several options for resolving the issue of how to close the pile foundation from the outside. The decoration of the basement of the house can be made of the following materials:

The choice of material depends on aesthetic and economic considerations.

Important! Whatever facing of the basement of the house is chosen, it is necessary to provide for air vents in it.

They are necessary for normal ventilation of the space under the building. Lack of air can lead to direct danger to human life. You often hear about the dangers of a gas such as radon. It lies in the ground, but often rises and accumulates in basements of buildings and underground. Constant ventilation will help to avoid the accumulation of hazardous substances. Closing the vents for the winter is highly discouraged.

A building on screw piles is the easiest and cheapest to sheathe with such material. The cladding has the following advantages:

But along with the advantages, siding also has a number of disadvantages. For example, it will not work if you need to insulate the basement of a house on screw piles.

Installation technology

It is quite simple to make the cladding of a house, you just need to know the order of work and the nuances of their implementation. The base / plinth arrangement is carried out in the following order:


All wooden elements are treated with antiseptic compounds before starting work. This is necessary to prevent damage by fungus, mold and decay. As an additional measure, fire retardant treatment can be performed.


Siding is the most common option. In this case, finishing the building is easy and quick. The device should be started after the completion of the construction of the house, when all communications have already been connected. To prevent the pipes from freezing in a ventilated underground, they are wrapped in heat-insulating material. Most often, mineral wool is used for these purposes. You can use ready-made elements of thermal insulation for pipes, or you can make insulation using mineral wool mats (wrapped in rolls).


Pay attention to the soft waterproofing of the blind area

Siding is a great option to close the space under the house. To fasten the panels to the crate, it is necessary to prepare self-tapping screws.

Brick finish

The cladding can be made from more serious materials. Brick will allow you to build strong and durable protection. You can also choose this type for aesthetic reasons.


Finishing a building with bricks begins with arranging a foundation for masonry. Just as in the case of siding, it is required to provide for an interlayer that compensates for the deformation of the soil in the winter. There are two base options:

  1. Monolithic non-recessed tape. This option is not recommended for construction on heaving soils. It can be used only with coarse and sandy soils (medium or coarse sand).
  2. At a distance of 50-70 mm from the ground, a corner is welded to the metal heads of the piles. The shelf of this profile will become the base for the brick wall. It is recommended to take an equal angle corner with a shelf width of 120 mm. The thickness of the rolled products is determined depending on the height of the masonry and the distance between the piles. If in doubt, take a thicker product.

The length of rolled metal can be 6 or 12 m. They are chosen depending on what are available and on the length of the walls of the building.
Brick laying must be carried out with bandaging. To connect the elements together, a masonry mortar made of sand and cement is used. The thickness of the seams on average is assigned equal to 10-12 mm.

Brick trim has the following advantages:

  • good thermal insulation performance of the material (it is worth choosing a hollow ceramic brick with increased performance);
  • no need for additional finishing;
  • maintainability;
  • durability.

Also, the finish is characterized by a number of disadvantages. These include a large mass and cost, labor intensity, limited color solutions.

Plastic panels

Fastening materials to piles is carried out using the same technology as in the case of siding. If you sew up the space under the house with panels, you can get the following benefits:

  • attractive appearance;
  • a wide range of colors and textures (you can choose imitation of brick or natural stone);
  • rigidity;
  • resistance to mechanical and chemical influences;
  • not susceptible to decay;
  • affordable price.

But when choosing, it is worth remembering that despite the efforts of the manufacturers, natural brick or stone looks better than finishing made of artificial materials.

Corrugated board

A profiled sheet or corrugated board is simply enough to attach to a wooden crate. The frame is arranged in the same way as for the installation of siding. The specially coated metal material is highly durable, easy to operate and maintain. There are many colors available. But the basement structure made of corrugated board is not suitable for all buildings, it is important to pay attention to the sheathing material of the main structure.


The principle of fastening the profiled sheet is very simple.

When choosing siding, brick, panels or corrugated board for work, it is required to strictly observe the fastening technology and take into account the appearance of the building, the integrity of the facade should not be violated.

Among the many types of facade work, the decoration of the basement of a private house stands apart. Since it is designed to provide not only decorative functions, but also practical ones.

In particular, due to the fact that the plinth is exposed to severe atmospheric and physical influences, it must be protected. For this, in the first place, it is necessary to finish the basement of the house.

And only after solving this problem, it can already be considered as decoration in the general architecture of the building. Therefore, it requires a more serious attitude than other facing work. This will manifest itself both in the choice of materials for decoration and in the work itself.

Since the basements of private houses are located above the ground and are the visible part of the foundation, they have to withstand all temperature differences between the ground and the air space. And also to this are added external precipitation, solar radiation and internal groundwater.

High strength, moisture and heat resistance, resistance to freezing, the ability to withstand pressure from the ground, the ability to resist mold and mildew - and this is not a complete list of what requirements are imposed on this component. In addition, the plinth still needs to support the weight of the facade.

If, when choosing materials, all these factors are taken into account and the finishing is taken seriously, then it will not only extend the service life, but also take part in creating a good microclimate in the house. For example, if the presence of a basement is designed in a private house, then the main property of the material for finishing should be heat resistance, its thermal insulation qualities (unless, of course, finishing will be done with insulation).

Otherwise, heat will leak regularly and the efficiency of the home heating system will decrease. As a rule, the base itself is made of materials with good technical characteristics, because otherwise it will not withstand the operational loads.

The aesthetic aspect is also important, since here, too, there are laws that affect the harmony of perception of the appearance of the building as a whole. In particular, the color scheme of the basement finish looks good when it is combined with the shade of the roof and, at the same time, is an order of magnitude darker than the walls. That is, the rule of compatibility between contrasting and neighboring colors is in effect.

In addition, given the location of the basement of the house and the pollution regularly affecting it, the light color will quickly lose its properties. Further, if the walls of a private house are made of logs or are smooth after plastering, then for finishing the basement, you should consider the option with an artificial or wild stone. First of all, for the visual weighting of the composition.

Step-by-step instructions and the order of preparatory work

Fake diamond

This budget cladding is good, first of all, because you can decorate the corner elements of the house with your own hands, and these are the most unreliable places in the decoration. Install this type of material without or like a tile on an adhesive.

For self-production, any stone for paving paths or even plastering mortar is suitable. The difference from the previous method will consist in a less scrupulous attitude to the size of the samples and the painting of the poured mass in advance.

Wild stone

A frost-resistant, heavy stone is selected, like granite or basalt. The finishing technology in this case will depend on whether the basement has been insulated, since without this you just need to take the following steps: prepare a solution for the base from M200; turn the stones towards the light with their larger side and sink them into the solution, but not all the way, but so that a certain distance to the walls remains; tightly seal all the grooves between the stones with mortar.

The decoration of the basement of a brick house will differ in that the thickness of the masonry joints is slightly more than 10 mm. And, since moisture remains in the seams of the brickwork, the solution must contain a plasticizer. As for the ebb tide, it is recommended to use hyper-pressed bricks.

If the trimmed basement was insulated and your house is no longer new, then in this case it is better to cover the basement with panels, tiles or.

Flexible stone

It has countless advantages, starting from a textile base with a carbamide binder. As a facing material, it is one of the best, and its only drawback is the lack of gloss for amateurs and the need for a solid plaster base during installation.

In general, they can circle corners, cut it with a knife, it is practically eternal, etc. That is, a full-fledged finish of the basement with your own hands is possible.

Siding

Used PVC and propylene siding for finishing the basement of private (frame) houses. Siding is installed along a horizontal profile with self-tapping screws. It is advisable to take care of the drainage, and it is also imperative to make a blind area before installation.

The work will use extensions, lathing, fasteners and adhesive. So, centimeter gaps are made from above and below, foamed and processed with glue. Then close it with a cornice.

Panels and slabs

Facing with this option is devoid of the disadvantages of the previous one, there is no need for lathing, the panels are immediately installed on the adhesive.

Popular ones are necessarily installed on a flat surface.

Tile

Technologically, the installation of clinker tiles or porcelain stoneware is the same as in construction, but requires appropriate qualifications. The surface must be flat and primed. The tile is placed on an adhesive and immediately fixed until the cladding slips.

Be sure to make gaps and wait for the previous section to harden. Porcelain stoneware slabs can be as glossy as polished stone and can be installed with little or no seam.

Sooner or later, any homeowner is faced with the fact that it is time to renovate a house or office building or simply improve it. When choosing materials for the facade and roof, one should not forget about such an important structural element as the basement. Its finishing needs to be taken care of separately, but naturally, it should be combined with the overall appearance, style and materials. There can be several options for the basement device: flush with the building wall, protruding and sinking - the choice of finishing material and application technology will also depend on its initial structure.

Base / plinth finishing options

Today, turnkey construction companies offer several options for finishing the basement:

  • plaster,
  • mosaic plaster,
  • brick,
  • clinker tiles,
  • natural stone
  • artificial stone
  • professional sheet

How to choose a cladding for a basement and what each of the materials is, now we will figure it out.

Naturally, such a ubiquitous material as plaster cannot but be used in the decoration of the basement sections of the facade. A plastered plinth will look beautiful and stylish if you choose the right type of material that successfully complements the style of the building, and, of course, it is applied with high quality.

This material is strong enough to provide the exterior protection of a building. But, of course, it cannot compete with stone or siding trim in terms of durability. However, it is worth noting that in conditions of high atmospheric humidity, exposure to ultraviolet rays and chemical corrosion, plaster, as a finishing material, has shown itself to be quite worthy. And as for the breadth of the assortment, plaster, perhaps, will be the first among all other finishes.

The variety of types, textures and shades suitable for finishing the basement is simply amazing. In any hardware store on the shelves there are at least the most common:

  • structural,

You can use classic textures, or you can add a little of your imagination to the finish and get a unique, original design. As for the shades, in addition to the available dyes - there is also a huge selection of them, you can order a professional tinting exactly in the shade you dream of.

Recently, plastering of a plinth "under a stone" is gaining popularity. This is natural - the craze for finishing with stone, natural or artificial, has entailed all sorts of ways to reduce the cost and simplify finishing work.

It goes without saying that performing imitation of stone with plaster is much more economical and faster than laying natural stone.

The most common types of stucco designs are marble, granite or sandstone imitations. Latex-based plasters can additionally provide an antiquated effect - cracked stone. In the same way, you can perform visual analogs of other materials - wood, timber, pebbles and many others.

The advantages of plaster as a finishing material for lining the basement are obvious:

  1. Easy to apply. Even textured decorative plasters are quite capable of applying independently, without special skills in construction work.
  2. There is no need to use special construction tools or equipment. Plasters are sold both in dry form, where you just need to add water and stir the solution, or as a ready-to-use mixture.
  3. The widest range of colors, textures, application options- all types of plasters and designs that can be obtained with their help are even difficult to voice within the framework of one article.
  4. Plaster is easy to tweak or fix. Perhaps this is one of the easiest materials to repair. Moreover, you can do this, again, with your own hands.
  5. Well, and undoubtedly, the dignity is the price of this material.

In addition to its advantages, plaster has quite understandable drawbacks. Among them it is worth noting:

  1. Coating strength not particularly high. Yes, this material is able to protect from external influences, however, it loses to a large extent to other possible finishing options, which are an order of magnitude more reliable.
  2. Not durable. No matter how competently the plaster is made, even if the application technology is strictly observed, the plastered surface will not last as long as marble, this should not be expected.

Plaster, despite its significant shortcomings, has been used for a long time for finishing the basement of buildings; it looks beautiful and harmoniously combines with other finishing materials. And given its low cost, it can be updated as it wears out.

The material itself is mosaic plaster, roughly speaking, a mixture of crumb and resin. Modern plasters are produced on acrylic resin, which has wonderful plastic and strength characteristics. This makes mosaic plaster not only a beautiful, but also a durable material for decorating the basement of a house.

The crumb can be of different sizes. There are three types of particle sizes: fine, medium and coarse. Which one to choose is determined by the buyer at his discretion and based on the general design of the building's decoration.

Before starting finishing, the base is also prepared in a standard way: cleaning from dust, priming. If there are no too noticeable irregularities, then there is no need to level them - this will be done by plaster.

Mosaic plaster is sold ready for use. Usually it is packed in plastic buckets of various sizes. The mixture has the desired consistency and shade. When buying material, always try to calculate the required amount as accurately as possible and provide for a small margin. Pay attention to the batch number and production date - different batches may have different colors, which will be very noticeable on the finished base.

There is nothing difficult in applying plaster; even people who do not have finishing skills can cope with this matter. Usually plaster is applied with a metal scraper, while it is important to observe the thickness of the layer and apply the material in one direction - so that no smears are noticeable.

If you decide to entrust the finishing to professionals, then they will most likely prefer the automated method of application - spray. Application in this way is much faster and easier, but, of course, not everyone has a spray.

Mosaic plaster can last a long time without changing its appearance. It is a beautiful, durable and comfortable plinth finish. It does not require any maintenance, retains its appearance throughout the entire period of operation.

Without unnecessary exaggeration, this is the most common type of basement decoration for residential buildings.

  1. Firstly, a brick base is durable, beautiful and goes well with other materials.
  2. Secondly, which is important for home craftsmen, it is quite possible to do it with your own hands.
  3. Well, and thirdly, brick is probably one of the most unpretentious building materials to maintain, therefore, having completed a high-quality finish only once, you can confidently expect that it will last for many years.

As a last resort, if some part of the masonry becomes unusable, it can be partially replaced and the general appearance will not suffer from this.

The brick base is frost-resistant and at the same time, it is not afraid of the scorching sun rays. This is also a definite plus of the material and makes it available for any region of our country.

Also, due to the growing demand for environmentally friendly materials, it should be noted that brick is just one of them - it is completely harmless to human health and the environment. Modern brick manufacturers can boast of decent equipment and quality materials. On the shelves of building hypermarkets, you can find many varieties of bricks - for every taste and imagination of the buyer.

The last priority advantage of the brick finish of the basement is its low cost - compared to other materials, this is perhaps the most budgetary one, but at the same time its appearance does not lose to the rest.

The finish of the basement with clinker tiles is visually completely identical to the finish with brick. But, of course, much cheaper and easier to implement.

Before starting finishing work, the base of the plinth must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt, if this is not done, the adhesive mixture will be unevenly applied, which can lead to shedding of the tiles. The base on which the clinker tiles will be laid must be even and strong - if there are cracks or damage on it, they must be repaired in advance, the same applies to irregularities - they must be leveled, otherwise, the tiles simply cannot be laid in an even layer. Immediately before laying, it is advisable to prime the base well with a special solution - a primer. This will reduce the consumption of the adhesive and improve its adhesive properties.

It is necessary to lay the tiles strictly according to the level, otherwise the rows may turn out to be uneven, visually it will be very noticeable and will require laborious alteration. They always start from the bottom row, and only after laying it along the entire perimeter of the structure, they begin the next one - and so on.

A steel trowel is perfect for gluing tiles. With its smooth side, we apply glue to the base, and then, we pass through the solution with the side with teeth - this way we get the required thickness for gluing the tiles, and the embossed surface will allow the tile to anchor more firmly on the wall.

The last stage is grouting the joints between the tiles. The grout must be selected in accordance with the parameters of use, namely: resistant to moisture and temperature extremes. Such a tool will not be cheap, however, its effectiveness will pay off already in the very first winter.

Clinker tiles are often used for base / plinth finishing precisely because of their great resemblance to brickwork. It can also be used both in whole and in part - for finishing only the basement, corners of the building, or highlighting any elements of the structure.

Facing the plinth with natural stone

Of course: beautiful, expensive, natural. It is impossible to argue with the assertion that a base made of natural stone looks very elegant and is able to complement, or even beautify, the overall appearance of the facade.

When planning stone finishing, be sure to pay attention to its quality - the durability and strength of the base will depend on it.

In this case, several types of stone can be used:

  1. River stone. He not only has a beautiful appearance, but also perfectly shows itself when interacting with atmospheric phenomena. River, like sea natural stone contains in its composition a large amount of mineral salts, which makes it practically invulnerable to precipitation, adhesion of snow or ice.
  2. Limestone. The stone is quite durable and at the same time, not particularly expensive.
  3. Marble. Naturally, a very expensive pleasure, but if you consider how strong and resistant it is to any kind of impact - both mechanical and atmospheric, material, then its quality justifies its cost. Moreover, for finishing the basement, it will not be needed very much.

Whatever type of stone you use, you can immediately highlight the advantages of such a finish:

  1. Naturalness. Accordingly, it is a completely environmentally friendly material that is safe for health.
  2. Durability. Stone finishes can maintain their appearance for centuries. This is especially true for marble, river or sea stone.
  3. Unique design- nature itself has tried, painting stones, their unique texture and coloring, of course, are able to decorate any building object. By decorating the basement with natural stone, you will provide the building with a spectacular appearance.

The advantages of natural stone are obvious even for an amateur in construction work, however, it also has disadvantages, which you also need to be aware of when planning the finishing of the basement.

  1. Finishing the basement with natural stone must be done after the house has completely shrunk. Since, as already mentioned, stone is one of the most durable materials, it is not able to undergo almost any surface tension. Hence the simple conclusion - it will be correct to finish the basement with natural stone only after the building has completely shrunk. Naturally, this is impossible for a new building - since shrinkage can occur for a long time - everything here will depend on the type of soil and the building itself. Otherwise, when settling, the base, trimmed with natural stone, will acquire not beautiful cracks at all, possibly spontaneous material falling off.
  2. The second important drawback also smoothly follows from the dignity of the stone - it is its weight... Anyone understands that a natural stone base is not only beautiful and durable, but also very heavy. And not every facade can withstand such a weight painlessly. Professional construction companies, when planning the laying of a stone basement, always calculate the strength characteristics of the building and its ability to withstand such loads.
  3. The third drawback will be elementary the cost of this natural material., especially with regard to marble, river or sea stone - these varieties, unfortunately, are expensive, and not every homeowner can afford it.

Natural stone is not only a strong and durable finish, it is beautiful, elegant and expensive - both literally, financially, and figuratively - visually. Of course, it makes no sense to combine such material with frankly cheap wall decoration - the stone is quite demanding in terms of the overall concept of decoration.

Decorating the basement of the house with artificial stone

Naturally, given the high cost of natural stone, the construction market has found a way out for more economical buyers. In this case, it is an artificial stone. Outwardly, it is almost completely identical to natural stone - it can repeat the texture of the stone, even taking into account its variety - river, sea, marble, and so on.

Thanks to the progress made in the construction industry, artificial stone made of concrete, with the help of special dyes, acquires a color similar to that of natural stone.

Artificial stone is sold in various sizes - you can choose large or small stones, depending on the design of the building and your taste. You can choose stones of the correct shape or shapeless. In any case, when choosing an artificial stone, you need to pay attention to its quality - the material must be made carefully and be as similar as possible to a natural analogue.

Artificial stone is laid on a regular or special adhesive solution, after cleaning the base from contamination. The seams are filled with mortar and embroidered, like brickwork.

The main advantage of artificial stone is its much lower cost than natural one. Outwardly, it looks impressive, given the large assortment of colors, textures and shapes, but the price is at least three times lower.

However, this material also has a significant drawback - its small, in comparison with natural stone, durability. In order to somehow increase the resource of finishing with artificial stone and extend its presentation, after it is laid and fully secured, the finished base is treated with special strengthening solutions - this event allows you to extend the life of the finishing by four to five years.

Currently, perhaps one of the most common finishes - both the walls of the house and its basement. Such popularity is ensured by the availability of the material, its widest assortment - in building hypermarkets, siding panels are presented in huge quantities, their color and texture can satisfy the most demanding buyers.

Siding has long been widely used in European countries for finishing buildings, in recent years it has flooded our market as well. The demand for this material in the coming decades is due to its obvious advantages over others:

  1. Siding is the easiest material to repair. That is, if suddenly there is a need to replace some part of the area trimmed with siding, then it is not problematic to do this - the main thing is to have the same material - from the same batch as the one being replaced. The surest solution here is to just buy it a little more, so that then you have something to replace it with.
  2. The material is very lightweight. When planning its installation, you do not need to calculate the load on the foundation, since it is completely insignificant. Siding can be finished without thinking about the strength of the walls of the building as a whole.
  3. For the installation of siding, a simple design is required- it is easy to perform, and the most interesting is that, using such a frame, you can put insulation inside, significantly reducing the heat loss of the building. The device of such a design allows the use of various types of insulation - from elementary to the most modern, and, moreover, in such a way that it will not be visually noticeable in the finished form.
  4. Siding has excellent performance properties: it easily withstands any atmospheric phenomena - precipitation, wind, frost and high temperatures without changing its properties or appearance. Some sellers of building hypermarkets discourage buyers from siding, citing the fact that, being in direct sunlight, colored types of this material can fade. In fact, this is not the case. Only material of poor quality or not intended for use in such conditions can burn out in the sun.
  5. A variety of textures and shades of siding. Of course, one cannot fail to note the variety of textures and shades of siding presented on the shelves of modern stores. Manufacturers produce siding that imitates stone, board, any natural materials, its shade can be very diverse. This is exactly the kind of material that can be easily matched to absolutely any style of the facade.
  6. Easy maintenance. Elementary simple maintenance of the finished finish is also an important advantage. No special tools or measures are needed - the siding is easily cleaned of dust and dirt with ordinary water.
  7. Ease of installation. Finally, for jack of all trades, the most important plus of this material will be ease of installation. It is quite possible to lay siding on your own, with only a superficial knowledge of construction or finishing work.

For all its indisputable advantages, siding, like any other material, cannot but have disadvantages. They are:

  1. Weak strength for mechanical damage. Unfortunately, such a convenient material in every sense can be easily damaged even without hitting it particularly hard. This is especially true in the case of finishing the basement - since it is just in the area of ​​the most frequent mechanical damage.
  2. When installing siding panels, it must be borne in mind that the seams between them are rubbed with a special compound- this will make them invisible.
  3. By itself, siding is thin and cold. That is, if you do not plan to use it for it, think carefully about whether you will get a warm enough building after the renovation.

Despite the shortcomings, siding continues to be a popular finishing material today. It is used in a variety of cases, including for finishing the basement - this option goes well, both with the siding of the entire facade, and with other types.

Convenient and practical material for finishing many building objects, including the basement of the house. As you know, the base must be protected as reliably as possible from moisture, precipitation, sunlight and similar natural influences. - metal figured sheet, with a thickness of 0.5 to 0.9 mm - excellent for the installation of such protection.

The profiled sheet can be offered for sale in various widths, but the height is usually equal to two meters. For finishing the basement, as a rule, an ordinary wall profiled sheet is used, it is designated by the brands PS-8, PS-10, S-8 and S-10. You should also pay attention to the color options, this material is presented in about fifty shades.

But it should be borne in mind that different manufacturers paint their products in different ways, therefore, you need to buy this material at a time, from the same batch - otherwise, there may be problems with the variance of the finished finish.

The corrugated appearance of the profiled sheet can be played up as a design move by placing the sheet both vertically and horizontally, and even diagonally to the main facade of the building.

Since the profiled sheet is attached to a specially arranged frame made of a U-shaped profile, it is usually used in it to increase the thermal insulation characteristics of the building.

Among the clear advantages of the profiled sheet, the following should be noted:

  1. Good strength characteristics... Metal sheet - reliable and dignified, you can not be afraid of atmospheric phenomena.
  2. Quite interesting appearance- the main thing is to successfully select the rest of the finishing materials, harmoniously combining the professional sheet with the appearance of the entire building as a whole.
  3. Resistant to corrosion- does not rust, since the profiled sheet is sold painted or galvanized.
  4. Fairly affordable cost.

The disadvantages of a professional sheet are:

  1. Low heat resistance. The profiled sheet itself is cold and without a special insulation system, it is not advisable to use it.
  2. Not suitable for every building style. Professional sheet - one might say, a minimalistic design that must be carefully combined with other materials.

Professional sheet is a modern and original way of finishing the basement, there are not so many varieties of it, but nevertheless, from the produced colors you can choose exactly what you need. And as for durability and strength, here its properties are at their best.

The finish for the plinth must first of all be durable, so it is worth choosing a material that will be reliable and durable, while taking into account the current climatic conditions of operation. Secondly, the plinth finish decides a lot in the overall appearance of the building, the wrong color or texture can visually ruin the rest of the facade.

Therefore, it is important to take into account the compatibility of the material for finishing the basement with the general house. Both shades and relief are important here - they should be in harmony or be contrasting. A small but significant factor is also the style of the building. If this is a classic, then there is no need to trim the basement with a colored profiled sheet, and if we are talking about asceticism, then natural granite will be inappropriate here. These are, of course, more subtle nuances, but it is also advisable to pay attention to them, showing a sense of taste and proportion properly.

Currently, the construction market is so diverse, there is plenty to choose from. A variety of materials are available, both in appearance, characteristics, and cost. The choice is yours!

A basement is a part of the foundation that rises above ground level. Consequently, the same requirements are imposed on its finishing as for the entire base. It consists of a whole range of measures - the arrangement of the blind area, preliminary plastering (not always), waterproofing and a number of others. The nuances are determined by the characteristics of each building and local conditions.

But when all the work is completed, the question arises - how to presentably decorate the basement? It is desirable that it is both beautiful and not too expensive and complicated. There are more than enough materials for finishing the basement. But the price of some products is such that not everyone is able to "shell out" that kind of money. In addition, the installation of some products requires experience, special equipment, which is also associated with additional costs. And from this point of view, there are not so many options for inexpensive finishing.

This design is suitable for buildings erected from almost any material (cellular concrete, brick, and so on), with the exception of wood, since it is unlikely that the plastered foundation will be in harmony with it.

pros

Minuses

  • Insufficient strength and, as a result, a short operational period.
  • The need for frequent renewal of the paintwork (in the case of surface application of the composition).
  • The complexity of leaving. It is rather problematic to wash off pieces of dirt that has got in - basically, only "dry" cleaning. In terms of maintenance, decorative plaster mixes are preferable, but they are quite expensive.

Finishing features

There is another opinion - to paint "on top", as such treatment will clog all the pores and prevent moisture penetration. But the question arises - what about vapor permeability? If there is a basement, and even intensively used, the question is not unimportant.

Siding panels

Naturally, this does not mean all that are on sale, but only those that are intended specifically for the base. By the way, they can also be used to decorate walls.

pros

  • Durability and reliability of the cladding. It protects the base well.
  • Maintenance is not difficult - the panels are easy to clean.
  • Possibility of quick replacement of the damaged product.

Minuses

Finishing features

  1. The crate is pre-installed. Since the finish of the basement is carried out outside the building, it is advisable to use a metal profile as a slats, and not wood - it is subject to decay.
  2. It is necessary to ensure the sealing of all joints, as well as correctly calculate and maintain the necessary clearances (in case of thermal deformation of products).

Stone (artificial)

In principle, the method is also relatively inexpensive and effective if the type of product is selected correctly (temperature of use, strength, etc.).

pros

  • Artificial stone is easy to make at home - we wrote about this here. This will slightly increase the time for the production of works, but will significantly reduce their total cost.
  • Variety of cladding options (appearance).
  • Durability, long service life.
  • Good maintainability.
  • Lightweight and easy to attach. The artificial stone can be simply glued onto the base.

Minuses

  • Works are carried out only at "positive" temperatures. This is determined by the properties of the recommended adhesives. It should be noted that you can work with some of them even when they are “negative” on the street. But here a certain difficulty arises - how to correctly calculate the size of the gaps between products? Therefore, "winter" work requires a certain amount of experience.
  • The process is quite painstaking and lengthy, you need increased attention and accuracy.

Finishing features

Much depends on what material the imitation of natural stone is based on. Practice shows that not everyone can independently perform such work - finishing. Most likely, you will have to pay for someone's services.

It makes no sense to provide a comparison of materials at prices, They depend on so many factors that it is simply impossible to take everything into account. One must not forget a simple truth - it is not always possible to equate the concepts of “cheap” and “quality”.

Output

Plastering a plinth is the most economical option that does not require the involvement of professionals. But if financial possibilities allow, then it is better to stop at the 2nd or 3rd options.

  • If the house is erected on a pile foundation, then the supporting frame is pre-mounted, which is sheathed with any material. The main requirement for it is moisture resistance.
  • When calculating the cost of work, it is necessary to look not only at the price of the material, but also take into account what the costs of its installation will cost. In addition, an important factor is the service life. It is wiser to buy a product for decoration that is more expensive and durable than regularly repairing the plinth lining and at the same time spending money again.

What is the best material for cladding the basement of a house? This question worries many who are faced with the need to finish this structure. The plinth surrounds the entire house and is an important element that protects the structure (especially the lower part) from the harmful effects of the environment. In addition, it plays an important decorative role.

House basement options

There are several types of the basement of the house, each has its own characteristics.

  1. Westerner. This type is a structure that is offset inward with respect to the main facade. The deepening is most often at least 50 mm. Such a device allows you to perform work with little cost, and also make the drain less noticeable.
  2. In the same plane. This option requires complex sealing, so the drainage system must be fixed during the general construction phase. This will avoid further problems.
  3. Speaker. To sheathe such a basement at home with your own hands, it is necessary (as in the previous version) to thoroughly think over the drainage system. If it is incorrectly arranged, water accumulates in the section where the foundation and the wall are separated. To avoid such troubles, moisture removal is planned taking into account the decoration of the facade.

Drainage device for protruding base / plinth for siding facades

On a note! When choosing a material for cladding, one should take into account the design features.

The need for finishing

If the finishing of the foundation of the house has not been completed earlier or the old cladding has fallen into disrepair, then the outer cladding must be performed. Its main functions:

  • Protection of the base of the house from environmental influences (precipitation, sunlight, wind). This allows you to significantly increase the durability of the entire structure.
  • Additional insulation. If required, a layer of thermal insulation is created, which can be associated with insulation of the blind area. This procedure not only improves the energy efficiency of the building, but also saves it from many problems. The upper facing layer will hide the insulation and serve as an additional barrier against cold penetration.
  • Decorativeness. An area finished with the right material and the right material can emphasize the overall direction of the design.

Insulation of the basement with subsequent finishing with tiles

Based on these parameters, the construction products necessary for the work are selected.

How to sheathe the foundation of the house outside?

The material for the plinth is purchased taking into account the following factors:

  1. Installation technology. There are two methods for covering the surface: dry and wet. The first assumes that the selected products are stacked on a previously erected frame. If the specifics allow, then the products can be mounted directly, without crate. The second option is more laborious: to overlay the base, you will need to use glue or a suitable solution. It is also possible to decorate the foundation of the house with the help of plaster, which will act as an independent product.

    Installation of facing material is carried out in two ways: on the frame and glue

  2. Frost resistance. First of all, the climate of a particular area is taken into account. The purchased products must withstand multiple defrosting and freezing cycles and not be deformed. When mounting elements on glue, the composition used must also comply with this requirement.
  3. Resistant to water and aggressive substances. The plating of the foundation should not strongly absorb moisture and react when chemical compounds get on it.

They also pay attention to the manufacturer of the product and the place of purchase. It is better to give preference to proven brands and specialized outlets.

Types of finishing materials for the basement and features of their installation

When choosing a material, you need to take into account the method of its installation. There are options that are mounted directly on the walls, but there are also options that require the construction of a frame.

Wireframe method

Foundation finishing materials installed on the crate are relatively new products. This list includes species that differ in technical characteristics.

The frame method involves the preliminary installation of the lathing, on which the cladding is then mounted

Panels

This includes panels made of different materials; it is customary to include siding and corrugated board in this group. When choosing, it is better to give preference to options that are made specifically in order to finish the basement. They are more durable and may include an additional layer of thermal insulation.

Plinth trim with decorative panels

Among the advantages of the products are:

  • Availability. Indeed, it is precisely this type that makes it possible to perform work inexpensively. This option allows you to get a balance of price and quality. But you should abandon products with too low cost. Most likely, they are made of low-quality plastic, which will quickly deteriorate.
  • Ease of installation. Facing with panels is carried out using a tool that every home craftsman has in stock, so you do not need to involve specialists for the work.
  • Possibility of additional thermal insulation. Installation on a frame solves two problems at once - ventilation and insulation. This will keep the coating free from freezing, reduce heat loss and the likelihood of mold and mildew.

The presence of space between materials in the frame method provides natural air circulation

  • Decorativeness. The panels, especially the basement ones, have a well-defined imitation of natural materials. That is, the lined area fits perfectly into the design idea and the environment.

Attention! The choice of unsuitable products can greatly spoil the result. For example, corrugated board for such a process must have increased rigidity, that is, have a durable topcoat.

Porcelain stoneware and types of tiles

For the plinth cladding, mainly porcelain stoneware and clinker tiles are used in the form of large parts. The second option can be laid with the wet method, then fragments of material are used. Due to its high weight, porcelain stoneware is installed only on the crate, while it must have increased reliability.

Finishing the foundation with a porcelain stoneware slab

Advantages of porcelain stoneware and tiles:

  • Light load on the building. This effect is achieved due to the frame, which takes up the main pressure.
  • Quick installation. It is possible to veneer the foundation of a house in a short period of time, but it is extremely problematic to do this without some experience. Porcelain stoneware needs the installation of special fasteners, which is not always possible without understanding the process. The tile is fixed much easier, for this there are special metal ears.
  • Durability. The service life of such foundation materials is calculated in decades.
  • Moisture resistance. Parts do not absorb water well, therefore they are not subject to deformation.

Such materials for the foundation have a significant disadvantage - high cost. There is no need to purchase cheap tiles, as this often indicates a low quality. For work, a version for the street with the "Snowflake" icon is used.

An alternative to tiles can be artificial stone. Elements are installed on the lathing through special holes or directly.

On a note! At the moment, thermal panels are becoming more and more popular, which combine the advantages of panels and tiles. They represent a base with insulation, on which clinker tiles are applied.

Thermal panel device

How to sheathe a foundation using lathing

All base / plinth finishing options, which involve installation on a crate, have a common structure cladding technology:

  1. Work begins with the preparation of the foundation. It is cleaned of dust and dirt, all cracks are carefully covered with putty. If there is serious damage, then before finishing the basement of the house, it is advisable to strengthen the foundation.
  2. Due to the fact that this part of the building is exposed to more moisture, it is treated with antiseptics. It is better to carry out the impregnation in several layers.
  3. After surface preparation, the frame is erected. For this purpose, a wooden beam or a metal profile can be used. It is important to take into account that wood needs to be treated against rot, and metal parts cannot be cut with a grinder, this leads to corrosion.
  4. The racks are installed perpendicular to the direction of material laying. If the products have the same sides, then the vertical method is considered preferable.
  5. Insulation is placed in the resulting cells. It is fixed on special anchors.
  6. Vertical ties are mounted between the frame posts and a place is left for installing the ebb.
  7. The material for finishing the basement is laid in several ways: overlapping, by means of a thorn-groove connection, on special brackets or clamps. Fixation is done on self-tapping screws. If the products are subject to thermal expansion, then the fasteners are loose.
  8. The ebb is mounted.

For the foundation finished with panel elements, additional moldings are used. They are installed at the corners for a better decorative look.

Frameless way

It is possible to cover the basement of a house without the help of a frame; for these purposes, different product options are used.

Brick

Features of the use of the material:

  • Great for pile or block foundations. But for the device of brickwork, it is necessary to create a reliable support.
  • The resulting coating has good resistance to external influences.
  • For work, products with low moisture absorption are used. If this parameter is not taken into account, then the surface is deformed.
  • This type of finishing of the basement does not differ in democratic cost, and certain experience is required for the work.

Brick cladding

Algorithm for creating masonry:

  1. The coating goes through a preparation procedure.
  2. If there is no reliable support, then a foundation block will do. He digs into the prepared foundation pit. This is especially true with a pile foundation.
  3. Waterproofing is laid on top of the base. In this capacity, roofing material can act.
  4. The first row is assembled after a thorough level check. In this case, the spoon masonry option is more suitable.
  5. To ensure reliability, a bundle is arranged. For this, anchors are installed in the foundation. If this method is not possible, then a wire with fixation on the piles is used.
  6. The ebb is mounted.

Brick cladding scheme

The difficulty lies in the need for reliable brick laying.

Artificial and natural stone

Facing the foundation with artificial or natural stone is not an easy task, especially for the second option. Both varieties have excellent technical parameters in terms of durability and reliability, but natural products need more careful care and are expensive.

Natural stone in the design of the base

Natural stone is laid as follows:

  1. Regardless of what types of finishing are performed, the surface must be carefully prepared.
  2. Due to the heavy load, the foundation should be covered with a reinforcing mesh and covered with a layer of plaster.
  3. The parts are laid after the layout is drawn up. If the fragments are of an irregular shape, then they are first laid out on a flat area.
  4. Fixation is carried out on a special glue, which is applied to the surface, the wrong side of the parts is slightly moistened.
  5. A small gap is necessarily left between the fragments, it compensates for the thermal expansion.
  6. If required, grouting and ebb installation are carried out.

A similar principle is used to decorate the basement of the house using artificial stone and tiles.

Plaster

Plaster is the most economical option that allows you to perform work without the involvement of specialists and complex equipment. For this process, a special type of mixture for external use is used.

Plaster finishing

On a note! Do-it-yourself foundation finishing with plaster is carried out in two ways: without additional thermal insulation and with insulation.

General technology of work:

  1. The surface is being prepared.
  2. A layer of glue is applied to which the thermal insulation material is fixed.
  3. After the composition has dried, the insulation is additionally strengthened with special dowels.
  4. Next, a small layer of mortar or glue is applied to the surface, after which a thin reinforcing mesh is stretched. It should be completely covered with the mixture.
  5. The surface is left to dry.
  6. The finishing layer is plaster. A spatula is used to apply it, and a rule for leveling.
  7. At the end of the work, the surface is covered with a protective paint layer.

Plaster plaster finishing scheme

This method allows you to tie the insulation to the thermal insulation of the blind area.

Plinth decoration

The decorative finishing of the foundation is considered an integral part of the process. The following options apply:

  • Coloring. It is carried out even after the passage of time. You can choose the shade that best suits the cladding of the house and favorably distinguishes the base.
  • Use of decorative or textured plaster. Such material is tinted and may include a fraction of natural stones or sand. This gives an unusual effect when applied correctly.

Decorative plaster in the design of the basement floor

  • Creation of a relief surface. For this, a simple facade plaster is used, on which an imitation of stone or brick masonry is formed. Additionally, staining is carried out in different colors.
  • The simplest is the use of materials with the desired imitation.

Working with a plinth is a rather complex undertaking, the basis of which is the correct choice of products.

Finishing the basement, on the one hand, is simpler than the facade: there are no special aesthetic and architectural subtleties here. The plinth can be in harmony or contrast with the overall design of the building in tone, texture, and the type of material used, see fig. Corrosive pedants just need to point to the Erechtheion, the Roman baths or any of the Gothic cathedrals - and let them say what they want.

Samples of finishing the basement of private houses

For small individual construction, the option of a raised basement is also of particular interest (photo below on the right in the figure): the tape protruding foundation is finished without any pretensions, if only for a long time, and the wall belt above it imitates a high basement. This allows you to fully concentrate technically on the correct arrangement of a very critical place in the entire structure of the house - the junction of the wall with the basement (ledge of the foundation); in particular, on the ebb device, see below, without prejudice to the appearance of the house.

On the other hand, the plinth cladding is exposed to intense chemical (atmospheric moisture, dirt, organic matter from the soil), physical (temperature and humidity changes) and mechanical abrasive agents (wind-blown grains of sand). The concentration of dust, dirt and splashes of solutions of soil components in the air depends on the height above the ground according to a power law and within 50 cm from the ground they fall 10 times or more relative to zero. Therefore, both the materials for finishing the basement and the methods of working with them require a more careful approach than for finishing the facade.

On the third, finishing the basement with a stone or other strong, durable and heavy material almost always does not cause any technical difficulties, because basement height usually does not exceed 80 cm; in extreme cases - up to 2 m, for a house with a basement, and the basement itself is made of durable materials, otherwise it simply will not carry weight, climatic and operational loads. So the material for the plinth cladding can be chosen, limited only by financial considerations.

Work order

The basement of a residential building is clad in the order of the work of the final stage of construction - exterior decoration. In general, the decoration of the basement of the house is carried out in stages in the following order:

  • A trench is being dug under a blind area with a depth of approx. 30 cm (on a shovel bayonet) or 15-20 cm deeper under the blind area with insulation;
  • A sand and gravel cushion is laid in the trench, optionally also insulation;
  • A rough finish of the basement is carried out in order to level its surface;
  • A blind area is being arranged;
  • Decorative finishing of the basement is carried out;
  • Only after that, all other work on the exterior of the building begins, incl. facade cladding.

It is not recommended to break this sequence, especially for inexperienced amateur builders, but in some cases, discussed below, it is possible, for example. if the basement of an existing building is being tiled or repaired. In this case, the design of the base plays a decisive role for the complexity of the work and the possibility of using one or another finishing material.

Plinth and ebb

The decoration of the basement of a private house in relation to the choice of material and the method of its installation largely depends on the design of the basement itself and its ebb. The conjugation of the load-bearing wall with the plinth is the most likely place for moisture to enter the gap between them, causing the walls to become damp. From below it is not allowed by waterproofing, for this they put it. But the water flowing into the walls is also capable of leaking under the wall along the same waterproofing, this is the so-called. capillary sealing. To prevent it, an ebb is arranged over the base.

Base / plinth design options

Possible base / plinth design options are shown in fig. If the base is sinking (pos. 1) - you're in luck. A simple single ebb is placed between the layers of insulation; if a drip-groove (dropper) is knocked out from below on the wall outlet, pos. 1a, capillary blocking of the walls is excluded. But then either the wall should be from 2.5 bricks, or the basement ceiling is slab, pos. 1b. The latter option is avoided by budget developers - it is expensive - but in vain: then, during the operation of the house, the slab overlap justifies itself with interest. Moreover, on, in fact, the second base of the house, you can build a lighter and cheaper box. Also, in this case, you can build from foam / gas blocks, then revet the house with brick, which looks solid and inexpensive.

More often, they are still found at home on a protruding plinth, pos. 2. The technology of preventing capillary blockage in this case is known, it is a double ebb, pos. 2a. Its outer tray (add-on) is placed at the end of the decorative finish of the basement and facade, so that it can be changed as it wears out. For reliability, silicone is applied to the surface of the rim (upper fold, fold) of the tray adjacent to the wall before installation.

Now on sale there are "eternal" ebbs made of propylene or stainless steel, their durability exceeds the estimated service life of residential buildings of conventional construction. With an "eternal" ebb tide, the task of keeping the wall dry is simplified: the basement is completely finished, and the ebb tide is placed on the wall before cladding it with a moisture-proof material, for example. waterproof plaster, clinker or adhesive thermal panels. The ebb rim turns out to be walled up in the facade cladding, pos. 2b, and water will no longer flow under the wall.

Note: these same methods of installing the ebb tide are applicable for houses on a basement flush with the wall, although, in general, a "flat" basement is bad in all respects.

Sometimes, for decorative purposes, the ebb as such is abandoned, replacing it with a brick cornice. So it is possible, but the front brick on the cornice needs to be taken so-called. hyper-pressed (hyper-molded), grind the ebb-ebb seams flush, and use waterproof and moisture-proof mortar and grout with polymer additives. In amateur conditions, you can make them with your own hands by adding to the cement-sand mortar from M200 and grout for outdoor work, 1-3 glasses per bucket of PVA or polymer tile glue such as bustilat. You can also use an adhesive for porcelain stoneware or clinker (terracotta) tiles.

Hyper-pressed bricks are often falsified. The real one can be recognized by its homogeneous structure, the absence of visible inclusions and the even dark color of a matte or semi-matt surface, the so-called. bricks - "chocolates", pos. 3. On ordinary (quite suitable for their purpose) facing bricks, forming an ebb, after a winter or two, the core will appear and efflorescence will go, pos. 3a, which means - break the lining of the basement and redo the ebb while the wall is locked.

Finally, wooden houses are built almost exclusively on protruding plinths: the minimum permissible width of the foundation tape here turns out to be greater than the thickness of the wall, and it is impossible to put a log house or frame on a concrete slab for a number of reasons. In this case, the ebb can only be double; its options for a log or log and frame house are shown in pos. 4 and 5. In a log / log house, the attachment of the outer tray rim is sealed with silicone; in a frame house, this is not required, because wall cladding also serves as a teardrop.

Note: in all cases of using a double ebb, the distance between the eaves of the inner and outer trays should be at least 10-12 mm in any place.

Preparing for cladding

The most difficult and time-consuming part of finishing the basement is leveling its surface for facing; the basement can be made of rubble stone, concrete blocks (possibly old, crumbling along the edges) or the above-ground part of the concrete foundation. In this case, the easiest way to prepare it for cladding with your own hands is to plaster with cement-sand or cement-lime starting (rough) plaster for outdoor use. Self-mixing can be done using the hydrophobic method described above (PVA, bustilate, etc.).

Leveling the surface of the basement for facing with starting plaster on a reinforcing mesh.

For leveling with plaster, the plinth is treated with a deep penetration primer on the appropriate material (stone, brick, concrete), large protrusions are roughly knocked down, if necessary, patching is done with cement-sand mortar and a steel reinforcing mesh with a thickness of approx. 4 mm, see fig. I use a thick plaster mortar, not dripping; the layer is given in 1.5-2 mesh thickness. Rub it to evenness with a polisher immediately, without waiting for seizure. After setting, check the evenness with a rod (norm - 3 mm / m), rub and finish as needed. It is advisable to first make a separate plot of 1-1.5 sq. m, after that and the "kettle" with hands from where it is necessary at least the start will put quite evenly under the lining.

Materials and technologies

The materials for the lining of the base, as mentioned above, must be resistant to thermal, chemical, mechanical stress and abrasion. Modern materials for finishing the basement, according to the price and complexity of the work, are generally divided into the following classes:

  • Painted waterproof plaster is the easiest and cheapest option. Best suited for low, up to 40 cm, plinths, the finish of which is not really visible anyway. Maintainability is limited, because it is difficult to choose paint for the patch exactly in the tone of the existing one.
  • Artificial stone - in terms of complexity and cost, the lining of the basement is comparable to plaster. Appearance is 3+ or 4–, but corner strokes are much easier, see below. Full maintainability.
  • Natural (wild) stone and facing brick - cladding a basement with them can be inexpensive and not require much work, but if the basement and blind area are insulated, the complexity of the work increases many times over, see also below. The maintainability is very limited: it is very difficult to remove the damaged fragment (s) without disturbing the facing over a sufficiently large area.
  • Flexible stone - in terms of the combination of parameters price / quality / appearance / technical capabilities is unmatched. Finishing the plinth with a flexible stone is also possible in a budget option. Full maintainability.
  • Basement siding - depending on the region, it can be cheaper than plaster, and in appearance surpass artificial stone (not natural!). Correct installation is not difficult, but requires certain knowledge and skills. The maintainability is complete, but the repair is rather laborious.
  • Basement cladding panels (not front!) Are somewhat more expensive than basement siding with the same decorative qualities, but are devoid of its weak points (see below). Maintainability is limited for the same reasons as wild stone and brick.
  • Clinker (terracotta) and porcelain stoneware facing tiles are the most expensive and time consuming, but the most resistant and durable option. If you need a basement surface for a noble polished stone, then porcelain stoneware is practically the only option at a not terrifying price.

Plaster

There is no point in decorating the basement with a beautiful, but not very durable finishing decorative plaster in this place. It is best to simply paint the rough base for finishing with alkyd enamels for outdoor use. They will cost a little more, but yacht enamels will last much longer. The option is a little more expensive, but even more resistant and absolutely moisture-proof - the so-called. latex acrylic paints or acrylic emulsions; on drying, they give a layer similar to dense rubber, only colored.

The plastered plinth can be immediately finished to look like a stone using silicone dies. A set of stamps costs about 500 rubles, but you can make them yourself. In general, plastering a plinth for a stone is carried out as follows:

  • Samples (models) of natural stone of any breed of suitable size and more or less coinciding in contour, without overlap, up to 12-15 mm thick are selected.
  • For each model, a plywood or plank box is made - a flask - with sides 2-3 cm higher than the stone.
  • Models are abundantly impregnated with mineral oil (you can use engine oil) and dried for 2-3 days.
  • Next, the models are lubricated with petroleum jelly (lanolin), each put in its own box and filled with silicone. Before this, the flasks from the inside must also be smeared with petroleum jelly.
  • When the silicone hardens, the flasks are disassembled, the models are pulled out of the stamp blanks (do not be afraid to pull, the silicone is stretchable and strong) and the stamps are cut with a knife along the contour with an allowance for the width of the seam.
  • On the base prepared as described above, a layer of thick mortar up to 16 mm thick is applied and stamped immediately, before setting.
  • Upon complete hardening of the coating, it is painted.

Fake diamond

Decorating the basement of the house with artificial stone.

Facing the basement of a house with artificial stone, with all its mediocre merits, is good for budget developers in that the forms for corner elements (see Fig.) Can be made independently. The corners are the weakest points of the cladding, it is here that the masonry seams begin to crack and the moisture under the cladding creeps exactly where it is not needed. An artificial stone is mounted on a base or similar to a natural one without insulation, or on tile glue as a tile (see both below),

DIY methods for making artificial stone are described in other materials; any kind of it suitable for paving paths will go to the basement. You can also make a homemade artificial stone for facing the basement from the same plaster solution. The workflow differs from the manufacture of stamps for a stone in that it is not necessary to select models by thickness so strictly and that the casting mass is tinted in advance, which makes the color more resistant; see the video below. The technology for making an artificial stone from plaster with your own hands is not strict, there are different options here.

Wild stone and brick

The natural stone for facing the basement should be chosen heavy, with low moisture absorption, i.e. not subject to frost. Shales, sandstones, limestone, dolomite, travertine and tuffs are definitely not suitable. Best of all are granite, diorite, diabase, basalt, gabbro and other rocks that can withstand at least 1000 complete freeze / thaw cycles. With the current climate changes, this is not so much, in Central Russia in the off-season there can be a full cycle every day.

The technology of facing the basement with natural stone essentially depends on whether it is insulated or not. Without insulation, the matter is easier, you just need to fulfill the following conditions (see the figure on the right):

    Plinth cladding scheme with natural stone

    Prepare the base on a steel reinforcing mesh (see above) with a cement-sand mortar from M200. The same solution is used for masonry cladding.

  • Turn stones outward with their widest sides.
  • The stones should be sunk into the masonry mortar so that their tops sunk into the mortar are located on the smoothest possible virtual surface (indicated by a green dotted line). Peaks of stone sticking out inside sharply reduce the strength of the masonry.
  • The layer of masonry mortar above the base should not be less than 30 mm anywhere on the plinth, but not more than 70 mm.
  • Do not leave deep gaps between stones, hoping to cut the seams later. It is better to give excess solution and remove the squeezed out.

Note: Do not be afraid of moss and lichen on a stone plinth. They will not spoil the stone in the least, they will only add chic to the house. Mold and efflorescence (salt spots on damp and then dried out places) - that's what is bad. But on the stones of the above rocks, both do not exist.

Finishing the basement with facing brick differs from facing with wild stone, firstly, in that the masonry joints are made normal for brickwork with a thickness of 10-13 mm. Secondly, the masonry mortar must be impervious to moisture with a plasticizer (see above), because in the seams of the brickwork, he loves to linger in moisture and accumulate dirt. Thirdly, it is very, very desirable to use a hyper-pressed brick, as for a brick ebb, see above.

Facing the basement with natural stone and brick is seriously complicated if the walls, foundation and basement are insulated. Then, not only is there nothing to hold onto the heavy cladding, but there is also a danger of capillary moisture penetrating into the insulation. What a set of works is required in order to avoid both, you can imagine by looking at the scheme of lining the insulated basement with a stone in Fig.:

Scheme of cladding a stone basement with insulation

And the matter will be even more complicated if the basement of an existing house is faced, because the retaining wall will shrink. In this case, it is better to cover the basement under the stone with siding, panels, and if you want the high cost to immediately catch your eye - with tiles. But first, let's get rid of the stone materials.

Flexible stone

Flexible stone in some sources is presented as a kind of "flexible tiles on polymer resins." Apparently, those authors remember the old Soviet flexible facing tiles, which, as they say, have been looking for fistulas for a long time. There she is also dear: polymer tiles shrunk, shrink, cracked, quickly wear out in heated rooms.

Flexible stone in decoration and cladding

The binder of a flexible stone is, indeed, synthetic resins, only not the mythical "polymer", but polyester and urea, but the essence of this material is in a textile base sprinkled with stone chips. The advantages of flexible stone as an external facing material are truly magnificent (see fig.):

  • Safe, environmentally friendly, chemically and mechanically resistant, chemically neutral.
  • Designed service life - over 150 years.
  • Easy to handle, can be cut with scissors.
  • It shines through, you can hide the lights behind the cladding or even make a street lamp from flexible stone, which, when turned off during the day, will be a sculpture to match the decoration of the house.
  • Available in a myriad of unique textures and colors, completely matching natural, both solid and torn, with gaps in imitation of masonry seams.
  • Curved surfaces and corners are easily traced with a flexible stone.
  • There is no front and basement, external and internal flexible stone, it is suitable for all types of finishing work. The same material can be used to decorate the basement, window and door trims, balcony, cornice, etc.
  • Finishing the basement of a house with a flexible stone on a difficult terrain (uneven slope, etc.) costs 7-20 times cheaper than any other material comparable in terms of decorative qualities and durability of cladding.
  • Thorough surface preparation for flexible stone is not required. If the irregularities do not exceed 10-12 mm, the flexible stone is laid simply on tile adhesive (the minimum layer over the protrusions of the base is 2 mm). Otherwise, the potholes are roughly covered with a cement-sand mortar. Which in any case does not hurt for the sake of saving expensive glue.

There are only two disadvantages of a flexible stone: it is rough; glossy and semi-glossy (sanded) does not exist. Then, the base for a flexible stone needs a strong one, therefore it is impossible to glue it directly onto the insulation or SMP (see below), first you need to prepare the plaster base, as described above.

Basement siding panel

The basement of the house is faced with a special basement siding, which is more wear-resistant and durable than the front one. Basement siding is available in PVC and propylene. The former is cheaper, brighter and can be glossy; the second is more resistant. Externally, the basement siding differs from the facade siding in that it is not made with boards, but with slabs with tongue-and-groove joints on latches, see fig. Therefore, filing the basement siding in size is possible only at the corners, and the seam must be covered with a standard additional element. The basement siding is mounted on a horizontal lathing made of wood or steel profiles on hardware (self-tapping screws).

Facing with siding is the least time-consuming way to finish a basement under a stone at an affordable cost; it doesn’t matter whether it’s an old house or a new building. But the "law of free cheese" is adamant here too: serious problems of lining the basement with siding are, firstly, damage to the crate, secondly, the accumulation of moisture in the cavities under the casing, and thirdly, the settlement of insects and rodents in the same place. As a result, the cladding is not so cheap and simple due to the difficulties with the blind area.

The general scheme for installing basement siding is given in Fig. below; drainage is highly desirable and dry enough. Installation of basement siding is carried out after the complete arrangement of the blind area. At the bottom and top, deformation gaps of 10-15 mm are left, which are foamed, sealed with a plastic glue recommended by the manufacturer (eg CM14) and covered with additional elements (plinth, cornice).

Installation scheme for basement siding

However, each manufacturer of plinth siding is struggling with the problems of its product in its own way, which, incidentally, indicates that there is still no optimal solution. Therefore, if you opt for siding for the basement, then:

  • Request a supplier or search the manufacturer's website for a material specification and make sure that it suits your conditions (temperature range, annual rainfall, soil properties, basement structure and material, building structure).
  • Use the recommended types of accessories, lathing material, fasteners and sealant.
  • Follow the manufacturer's installation instructions carefully.
  • In no case do not save on starting and finishing bars: moisture, dirt, mice and spiders with congeners are just waiting for that.

Panels and slabs

Finishing the basement with panels is somewhat more complicated and expensive than with siding, but it is devoid of its drawbacks, because there is no lathing with its pockets, the panels are put on glue. Metal composite panels, however, are mounted on the crate, but they are rarely used for finishing private houses because of their utilitarian look. Most often, the basement is finished with facade thermal panels with clinker stone linings and polyurethane insulation, they are quite suitable for this purpose. The plinth trimmed with panels looks no worse than under the siding. Thermal panels are mounted on the base in the same way as on the facade; leveling of the surface to an unevenness of 3 mm / m is required. The insulation is obtained automatically.

You can also find recommendations to finish the base with magnesite glass plates (SMP), but this option is far from the best: SMP are fragile, little resistant to abrasion and soil chemistry. Outside, in resorts, the facades of houses for rent are sometimes trimmed in the half-timbered style with high-class SMPs (on the right in the figure), but such cladding serves for 10-15 years, and during this time it is necessary to do 2-3 of its cosmetic repairs.

Magnesite glass panels (SMP)

In private construction, the NSR is sometimes used as a permanent formwork for a towering strip foundation, which, in general, is good in all respects, except for the price. In this case, the SMP above the ground can be prepared for finishing, as described above, only the mesh fasteners must be taken longer so that the self-tapping screws sit in the plinth. And then natural stone and brick as a basement finish disappear: under the weight of the cladding will peel off along with the plaster and mesh.

Tile

Facing the basement with tiles is a poor man's decision left over from Soviet times. The porous material gains moisture, the glaze loses its appearance due to the appearance of microcracks and the effect of sand grains. The basement tiles are finished with either clinker (terracotta) or ceramic-granite tiles. Facing the basement of an existing house with tiles is not technologically different from that during the construction process, which is an undoubted advantage .. But in either case, the work is very laborious and requires rather high qualifications: the base surface is leveled and its patching is performed. The base is then primed with a deep penetration primer. The tile is placed on glue (layer - 2-3 mm) in sections 1-1.5 m long. Immediately, while the glue has not grabbed, fix the tiles with crosses or other spacers (see fig.), Otherwise the facing will slip. Separators are also placed below, where a gap of 10-12 mm is needed, which is subsequently sealed with the same glue. The subsequent section is revetted after the glue has hardened on the previous one.

Tiling the base / plinth

Note: it is impossible to prepare the surface for the tiles in the way described above (mesh + plaster), the cladding will peel off.

If you still want to decorate your base with tiles (it looks rich, you won’t say anything), then it is better to revet it with porcelain stoneware. Firstly, the hardness of porcelain stoneware is comparable to the hardness of sapphire and corundum, sand does not care for it. Secondly, strong inorganic acids, except for hydrofluoric and fluorine-antimony, do not act on porcelain stoneware. Thirdly, porcelain stoneware is produced in slabs up to 30x60 cm, so the work will not come out so stubborn. Fourthly, it is possible to split porcelain stoneware on a solid base and with a sufficiently elastic layer under the tiles only with a shot from a rifled weapon; Buckshot fired from a 12-gauge pump-action shotgun at a distance of 15 meters flattens and rebounds. Fifth, porcelain stoneware slabs are also produced with a glossy surface, almost indistinguishable from polished stone. Sixth, due to the low TCR (coefficient of thermal expansion), porcelain stoneware on the plinth can be laid "without a seam", i.e. with a seam 1-2 mm thick, which enhances the decorative effect.

And more about the stone

Let's take another look at what kinds of stone are suitable for facing the basement. Yes, this is ... a heavy boot! Fractionated broken stone is not cheap, but if you order a dump truck of solid rubble and sort it out yourself, you will find enough pieces to build a stone basement, and, smaller, to fill then the recesses between large fragments. So, and building, as they say, tightly on a budget, consider also the option of a stone basement. Cladding / finishing as such is eliminated, and with 100% natural stone any home will look solid.

The basement of the house is located between the foundation and the first floor of the building. First of all, it is designed to protect housing from moisture and low temperatures entering living quarters. Let's try to figure out what this structure is and how to make the basement of the house correctly.

Peculiarities

The basement of a private house is a rather important element of the building structure, however, not everyone clearly understands its function. The main function of this element can be found from its name. In Italian, "tsokcolo" means the foot of a building or, in other words, what the main structure of the building is mounted on.

This is a necessary element for any building, be it the basement of a brick house, utility building, etc. The basic principles of building a basement of a private house do not differ from the principles of building it in a barn. The main purpose of the basement floor is to protect the premises of the house from environmental aggressors (cold, humidity, etc.). That is why this element of the house is insulated and waterproofed.

The connection of the basement with other planes of the house is necessarily insulated from the aggressive effects of the environment. Thanks to hydro and thermal insulation, moisture does not penetrate into the building material and does not give a chance for condensation to develop in the room. In addition, the plinth resists the penetration of cold into the house and serves as an additional decorative element.

Thanks to a wide range of finishing materials on the construction market, there are many opportunities to realize your design ideas through finishing the basement of the house. You can get inspired by looking at photos of an interesting design of the basement of a house on the web or in magazines.

Among the important functions of the base, you can also highlight:

  • Creation of an air gap that insulates the basement of the house.
  • Stable air circulation, which ensures a long service life of the structure.
  • Raising the walls of the house, which helps to protect them from moisture and damage.

Base types

Depending on the connection with the outer wall, the basement can be of different types: sinking, protruding, in a single plane. According to experts, it is the last option that is most irrational, since with the same level of the basement and the wall, moisture easily penetrates into the room. The option of a sinking base would be ideal.

Among the main advantages of the sinking structure are:

  • overload protection;
  • budget.

The overhanging section of the sinking plinth will create additional protection of the room from rainwater. It looks attractive. Unfortunately, this type of construction is not advisable to use in the construction of a house with thin walls.

As for the protruding basement, then it is done if the presence of a basement / subfloor is implied. Just this option is suitable for a house with thin walls. This type of plinth protects against moisture and low temperatures.

If the house is settled on a strip foundation, then the part that protrudes above the ground will become the base. The columnar base of the house implies a base in the form of walls between the pillars. In another way, they call it a pick-up. In addition, such a plinth significantly strengthens the foundation of the house.

Plinth installation on different types of foundations

The design and features of the basement directly depend on the type of foundation. For example, for a strip foundation, a plinth is required, which will carry the load-bearing function. For a columnar foundation, the plinth serves as a protection against adverse environmental conditions.


Strip foundation

Several types of basement structures are suitable for this type.

  • Monolithic. This type of base is a single structure with a foundation.
  • Brick. Bricks are erected on top of the base. An ideal solution for a log house.
  • Concrete. The basis of such a structure is made up of concrete slabs, which are laid on top of the foundation or as a base.

Pile foundation

In the event that the building will be erected on a pile type of foundation, that is, the following options for the construction of the basement.

Suspended plinth. For him, along the perimeter of the building, a crate is needed on which the cladding will be attached. The main advantage is easy installation. Such a basement of the house can be easily equipped with your own hands. This option will not work if you need a warm subfloor at home.

The wall between the piles. It will cover the subfloor. If the foundation is not too deep, then a strip base should be installed around the perimeter and finished with bricks.

The basement of the house is exposed to moisture, rain, melting snow, etc. Humidity accumulating in the materials in the basement floor can rise to other floors and enter the living quarters. Salt spots will appear on the walls, the facade will lose its attractiveness, and the thermal conductivity of the walls of the house will increase. In order to avoid such problems, it is necessary to install high-quality and reliable waterproofing.

The most susceptible to such environmental influences is a site located thirty centimeters from ground level. In other words, the height of the hydro-barrier should not be less than this figure. Ideally, the protected height of the basement of the house is in the region of 70-80 centimeters.

If there is a basement in the house, it is necessary to install two waterproofing belts. They are usually located at the basement level and in the basement. In the latter, horizontal waterproofing is installed, which prevents the rise of moisture through the capillaries of the building.

There are several types of waterproofing for the basement, but the most popular are coating and pasting.

The first consists of several layers of waterproof coating, which includes bitumen, polymers, mastic and various polymer solutions. Among the advantages of coating waterproofing, ease of application and low price. Cons: poor frost resistance and fragility (service life no more than five years).

The glued waterproofing consists of rolled bitumen membranes up to five millimeters thick (several layers) and a film.

When planning the construction of a house, consider the technical characteristics of the future building and the desired results. The material studied in advance will help in the future to carefully design the building, taking into account all the features.

Photo of the basement of the house

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