Blacksmith's masterpieces have always enjoyed special love and popularity. And if you have the strength, desire and capabilities, then you can always do this lucrative craft within the territory of your private home. Moreover, a homemade brick furnace turns out to be very simple to do it yourself.

Purpose of equipment

In any forge workshop, the forge is used for a number of important operations - to heat up the metal just before forging, to cement it, or to engage in other heat treatment operations. Even outside the production hall, it allows you to get temperatures up to 1200 degrees. Most surprising of all, such equipment can be made by yourself - in its simplified version, it can be assembled in about thirty minutes, using only six fireclay bricks and a few pieces of steel. At the same time, both the temperature and quality indicators of the heating process itself will meet the requirements for small art forging and even melting.

Horns are divided into open and closed... In the first version, the source is warmed up in a special space-chamber.

For the second type, the fuel will be poured directly onto the grate itself, and the air will succumb from below (it is convenient to work with large workpieces on it).

How will homemade equipment work? The operation of any (both industrial and domestic) such equipment is based on the principle of a chemical reaction, which is produced by the combustion of carbon. This element is capable of literally "greedily" wanting to reunite with oxygen (which is what was noted in metallurgy). Ores of iron and other metals are oxides and their compounds. Oxygen, when heated, goes to carbon, and the metal begins to stand out in a free form.

However, you need to ensure that the metal itself does not burn out - it is overexposed, it will simply become overdried (this is, for example, cast iron).

That is why it is important to regulate the flow of air into the furnace. And this cannot be done without a properly constructed structure.

How the bugle works

An industrial apparatus has a slightly different device from a homemade one. Before proceeding with the independent manufacture of such a product, you need to study its basis:

1. Through a nozzle (in another way it is called a tuyere), air enters the chamber space.
2. Refractory bricks will retain the required thermal power.
3. The grates will hold the fuel used above the air chamber.
4. The fuel source will be loaded into the furnace.
5. More bricks will form the frame of the device.
6. A fan blows air into the furnace.
7. The general frame is usually made of metal.
8. The chamber is air.
9. Ash pan.
10. Air duct pipe.
11. Casing.

Of course, to comply with all of the above, an ordinary person will not have enough knowledge and funds. But a more simplified version is quite realistic to install on its own.

Forge made of bricks: a simple closed version

A temporary forge can be easily erected from available tools at hand. For this, come in handy:

• six refractory bricks;
• blowtorch;
• homemade grate (grate) made of steel strips with a thickness of at least 3 mm.

All work must be carried out in a pre-planned fire safe place. The correct sequence of steps can be considered the following:

1. The bottom "layer" of bricks is laid (two pieces).
2. Then two cut drain pipes are laid on them, on which the grating is placed in such a way that a gap is still visible between it and the bricks from below.
3. On the grate, you need to slightly bend the transverse slats - this will help them to capture the flame of a heated blowtorch and direct it straight up.
4. Two side bricks are laid (these will be the walls).
5. On them, similarly to the lower ones, the pair of the remaining upper ones will be located.
6. Coke (coal) is poured onto the grate and a blowtorch (already warmed up) is placed in front of the hearth itself. Its flame ignites coals and further combustion is maintained. Now it only remains to find that optimal direction of the flame, so that the outlet has a very high temperature.
7. For safety reasons, it is better to shield the blowtorch from the hot forge with some kind of screen made of non-combustible material.

Manufacturing of parts

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The working surface will be a table - that is, the base of the furnace, where the hearth with fuel will be placed. It is on it that metal blanks are heated. This design is usually very heavy. It is easy to make: for example, you can make a metal cover in 4 mm steel sheet.
How is the grille made? You can "adapt" for this an old cast-iron pan (just before that you need to drill several holes with a 10-mm diameter). Alternatively, a rim will do.
After completing work with the lattice, we adjust it by inserting it into the hole in the table. To better "fit", the brick can even be slightly sawn (after soaking it in water). The height of such a table can be chosen arbitrary, but it is better to do it at the level of the master's belt.

Gas options

Is it possible to replace coal (more often coke) and a blowtorch with some other analogs? For example, it could be a gas burner. In industry - yes, easily for the simple reason that the monogases used there are specially designed for such purposes (they consist of a specially selected mixture). But household gas will not provide optimal heating of the air, which can heat the metal. In addition, there is an admixture of sulfur in a household burner, which can simply "kill" all the operational properties of the metal (for the reverse process, everything will have to be re-melted). It also "poisons" steel and sulfur from wood.
Of course, you can fight this. Only the ways are somewhat "exotic":

1. Pass the gas from the cylinder through a container with naphthalene before feeding it to the burner.
2. Heat not very critical and stressed parts with such a gas (these can be any decorative art elements of forging).

How to use "homemade"

homemade brick furnace

An additional supply of blowing air can be provided using a foot drive (usually mechanical). It can be replaced with both a fan and a vacuum cleaner. As for the latter, we can say that it is important here that the speed regulator is present and it makes little noise.
The brick forge is almost ready... Now it is important to learn how to use it correctly:

1. The forging itself will begin by pouring fuel onto the grate area. Although many blacksmiths act on this basis: the workpieces are placed on the coals themselves, and another layer is poured on top (this allows an arch to form inside the coal and create the necessary tremendous temperature).
2. It is still allowed to use wood fuel, but in order to do this, you will have to install one ring on the horn (height 15 cm and diameter 20 cm). A vertical cut is made inside the ring and the same on the other side.
3. So, as it burns, wood waste will fall down, and at the very bottom, the optimum temperature will be set for working with a metal product.If you plan to work with large workpieces, it is better to increase the working surface - for this it is enough to make a special removable table of the required size from the corners ...
4. Above the mini-blacksmith's workshop, you will also need to install an extractor hood - you can either purchase such a box or make it yourself.
5. The workpiece selected for forging must be buried in an already hot coal, where it is aged until it is approximately light orange (this is an indicator that the temperature has also approached about a thousand degrees). It is impossible to hold the workpieces for too long - this will only worsen their mechanical properties and make the metal too brittle.
6. A hammer weighing up to one kilogram is used for forging. You need to work in special goggles - this will prevent hot scale from getting into your eyes.
7. As an anvil, you can use any massive metal thing - a sledgehammer or even a piece of rail.

A homemade bugle will even help make welding- only in this case, the parts must be heated to white heat (and this is already a temperature of at least 1300 degrees) and overlapped. But for this, it is better to use low carbon steel materials.
You can even solder on such equipment. For such a part, they are preliminarily tied with wire and covered with brown (or flux) and then sent to the furnace to heat up to a temperature of 900 ° - this will be seen by the orange color of the metal. It remains only to bring pieces of brass into the soldering points and wait until they spread along the seam.
Using such homemade equipment, you can make grates, fireplace tongs, decorative door and gate hinges, and even a candlestick. The assortment will depend only on the desire of the master behind the mine.
For a more detailed disclosure of the topic, we recommend watching the video on making a simple forge forge:

The blacksmith's forge is an indispensable attribute of workshops engaged in the production of various products by the method of hand-made art forging. Only a small number of forged elements can be made by plastic deformation of metals at room temperature. In most cases, heating is required. For steel, in particular, the range of optimum forging temperatures is (depending on the steel grade) from 800 ... 900 0 С to 1100 ... 1200 0 С. The forge is the simplest type of heating device, which is quite suitable for these purposes.

Invented by the ancient Khalibs for forging copper knives and scrapers (Middle East, VI millennium BC), the first forge was made in the form of a primitive depression in the ground with dimensions of about 700 mm. The pit was surrounded by a stone wall, in which a hole was provided for blowing in air. Air injection (which is necessary for stable fuel combustion) was carried out using bellows. They were a cavity made of goat skins, into which air was blown in with levers through an air valve. The reverse stroke of the lever was provided by a stone, which was installed on the upper plate of the bellows, and the valve was operated due to the difference in pressures of cold and hot air.

Existing forge furnace designs are determined by the following factors:

1. Fuel on which the device operates: coke, fuel oil, coal or gas.
2. Design fuel combustion device.
3. Required dimensions work space.
4. By appointment, since, in addition to heating for forging, forges are also used for some operations of heat treatment of finished forgings - carburizing, tempering and even quenching.

For safety reasons, forges are more likely to run on coal.

Coke is expensive, fuel oil is characterized by unsatisfactory environmental operating conditions, and gas mines require particularly careful routine maintenance. At the same time gas furnaces are characterized by higher efficiency, and also allow quite convenient mechanization of some heating control processes - in particular, ignition of gas in a burner or burners.

Common disadvantages blacksmiths are considered:

• Uneven heating metal placed on the surface;
• Impossibility practical temperature control heated workpiece;
• Unwanted saturation of surface layers heated metal sulfur compounds, as a result of which the workpiece receives increased fragility.

However, an experienced blacksmith is able to assess the temperature of a metal by the color of its surface, and the problem of sulfurization is solved by using a higher-quality type of fuel.

Fuel consumption during the operation of forge furnaces is 40 ... 150% of the mass of the heated metal, with its surface fumes 4 ... 7% (depending on the duration of heating). Modern furnaces are mainly of a closed type, since in the opposite case, the efficiency of the heating device drops to 5 ... 10%.

Coal fired forges

The design of a heating device of this type includes:

1. Arch and side walls, which are laid out from refractory bricks (chamotte or dinas).
2. Horn nest formed by the upper surface of the arch, where the workpieces are heated.
3. Umbrella equipped with folding curtains, and designed to improve natural cravings in the workspace.
4. Back wall (firewall) which provides source air vents.
5. Air faucet, designed to turn on the air supply to the hearth nest.
6. Protective box made of heat-resistant steel, which connects the inlet cavity at the air supply valve with the hearth socket.
7. Quenching tank(it can be steel or brick), designed to cool the workpieces during their heat treatment or to cool the hearth itself from overheating and the subsequent formation of temperature cracks.
8. Chimney through which the fuel combustion products are removed.
9. Coal storage tanks and various forging tools.

Schematic diagram of the forge forge

A solid fuel forge is a rather capricious heating device, and heating it up requires some practical experience from the blacksmith. It is especially difficult to ignite a furnace that has not been used for a long time, and also if the outside temperatures and air pressure are low enough. Coal used in such forges must comply with requirements of GOST 8180.

Furnace preparation for metal heating is performed in the following sequence:

• Slags are removed from their forge nest, remains of forged metal, ash and scale (this should be done even when the surface has been thoroughly cleaned after completion of work);
• Chimneys and air supply ducts are blown out with compressed air(for small forge forges, you can use a vacuum cleaner);
• A small layer of coal is poured onto the surface of the forge nest, while the opening of the protective box should not completely overlap;
• Top on coal put rags soaked in flammable liquid or sawdust;
• After firing up when burning becomes steady, add the next portion of coal(the fraction may have an increased size compared to the original);
• The air supply valve opens, and is installed in the middle position;
• As it burns out, the intensity of the blast gradually increases.

The required quality of billet heating for forging in an open hearth is ensured crust formation, which is formed during the combustion of fuel.

There is always a higher temperature inside the crust, so the workpiece is placed inside, and the top is covered with another dose of coal. At the same time, they try not to destroy the upper surface of the crust, since otherwise heating will be slower, and metal waste and scale formation will increase. Sometimes, to weaken the processes of metal carburization, the crust is sprayed with water.

In open hearths, the least intense heating of the metal occurs at the periphery of the hearth nest, therefore fresh coal is poured along the perimeter of the heated workpiece... If the crust layer becomes too thick (more than 5 ... 10 mm), it breaks, because in this case, the thermal conductivity to the workpiece decreases.

During heating periodically the workpiece is turn to ensure that all parts have the same heating conditions. The flame when burning coal should have a uniform color with a minimum of soot.

Heated steel colors at different temperatures are as follows:

• Dark cherry color - 700 ... 750 0 С;
• Cherry red - 750 ... 800 0 С;
• Red - 800 ... 850 0 С;
• Light red - 850 ... 900 0 С;
• Orange - 900 ... 1050 0 С;
• Dark yellow - 1050 ... 1150 0 С;
• Light yellow - 1150 ... 1250 0 C.

Overheating of the metal above the indicated temperatures is unacceptable. Overheated metal is characterized by a coarse-grained structure that is less amenable to forging, especially when forming complex forged elements.

Gas fired forges

Gas furnaces are brought to the design mode much easier, and this is their advantage over solid fuel heating devices. The typical design of such a horn is as follows.:

1. Camera, made of refractory material, and lined on the outside with heavy plate heat-resistant steel.
2. Front flap opening with hinges or counterweight and equipped with a viewing window.
3. Under, made of heat-resistant fireclay bricks.
4. Burner... The type of burner is determined by the heating value of the gas used. For example, for a propane-butane mixture, diffusion combustion burners are effective, in which the mixing of air and gas occurs only after the gas and air leave the device, and the mixing of the components occurs due to diffusion processes. Such burners provide the most uniform heating of workpieces (especially long ones), and the minimum waste of metal is achieved due to the fact that there is always a protective layer above its surface.
5. Mixing reducer, providing mixing of air and gas (included in the structure of the cylinder with liquefied gas).
6. Nozzle, the configuration of which is determined by the shape of the blanks heated in the hearth.
7. Grate designed to improve traction and dross collection.
8. Fan providing air injection in the required volume with its subsequent supply to the burner operation zone.

For the operation of such furnaces, a stationary source of electricity is required. It is advisable to use gas furnaces for heating parts of long billets for forging: heating occurs much faster, and therefore, scale formation is less.

When using a gas furnace, the following safety requirements must be strictly observed:

• Ventilate the smithy room thoroughly. Avoiding stagnant zones where flammable gas can accumulate;
• Do not use oxygen and oxygen-containing mixtures that are prone to spontaneous combustion and self-ignition near a working device;
• Provide for the complete afterburning of gas in the working space of the hearth (determined by a gas analyzer, which is mandatory during a test run of the gas hearth);
• Thoroughly clean the grate after turning off the gas supply to the device.

In order to reduce scale formation for heating blanks for forging, they also use and electric resistance heaters, but such devices can hardly be called "horns".

The forge is a very useful piece of equipment that can help the craftsman in the manufacture of various metal products. Having a forge can solve many problems associated with repairing old or making new products.

Of course, there is always the opportunity to purchase factory equipment of this type, if there is a need for it. You can also resort to the help of blacksmith workshops, which can definitely be found in almost every locality. But there is an opportunity to create a forge with your own hands. Having certain skills in handling the tools that will help in this matter, there will be nothing difficult in this. You need to make an effort, find all the components, the necessary tools, spend time, but you will have your own forge for use, which you can put in your workshop.

This device is used by craftsmen for the following operations: heating metal before forging, cementing as well as other operations. In artisanal conditions, a master using a forge is able to reach temperatures up to 1100 degrees, in some cases even up to 1200. Forges are usually represented as large stationary equipment, but there are also small portable samples. Basically, creating your own forge is not that difficult. Tips for creating such a forge will be given in the article below.

To use a traditional blacksmithing mine, you need to have certain skills and experience, as well as be sure to have the necessary knowledge about which fuel to choose is more appropriate. Using a fuel such as natural gas for heating is unlikely to forge something significant, but it will help significantly simplify the design. The fact is that a gas forge can be assembled in half an hour or an hour, using only six fireclay bricks and a few scraps of steel. At the same time, the quality and temperature of heating will allow you to work with non-ferrous metals and small items.

Horn device

In order to move on to tips for creating a homemade forge, you should first familiarize yourself with the traditional device of such a device:

The operating principle of the horn

In order for the user to make a forge on his own, he needs to first understand the principle of its operation, in order to subsequently work with what is, without loss of quality. There is a chemical reaction of burning carbon: 2С + О2 = 2СО2 + 188.1 kcal... It is she who underlies the work of any device. The reaction immediately shows that carbon is a rather strong reducing agent, that is, it greedily combines with oxygen.

This reducing ability of carbon is partly used in the forge to prevent oxidation of the workpiece, that is, so that the metal in the fixture does not burn. Another property of carbon is also very important - its high calorific value. This property lies in the fact that if you blow enough air into the fuel mass, which would be enough for carbon, then you can burn it quite quickly, which will lead to a greater amount of heat released. This will allow a higher temperature to develop.

To prevent metal oxidation, the blast in the furnace should be regulated in such a way that the fuel is slightly oxygen deficient. But it should be remembered that if the workpiece is overexposed, then carburization will occur. This means that the metal will become overdried, that is, brittle.

A few words should be said about the various fuels that can be used to operate a forge. These are tips to help better deal with forges:

Do-it-yourself forge forges

You can go to the procedure for making your own fixture of this type. Below are some of the most popular do-it-yourself forge making options. They differ in structure, but the principle of operation is similar for all of them.

Mini-horn

Such a small forge of six bricks is the best option for beginner blacksmiths.

The grate shelves can be made from ordinary steel pipe scraps, while the grate itself can be made from 4-6 mm thick steel strip. The figure shows that the grates must be screwed at an angle to capture the blast flow. For this option, the following types of fuel are suitable: coal or coke. Blowing and ignition are performed with a blowtorch, gas or fuel-air burner.

It should be remembered that when using a blowtorch, you need to put a partition, with a window under the nozzle, made of asbestos between the lamp and the fixture. This must be done, because the forge intensely emits heat, which can cause the lamp to explode... You should use such a home-made mountain outdoors, since he does not have an umbrella with a chimney.

A portable blacksmith's forge can be made with your own hands from a gosper. The design can be understood from the figure below. The lining here is chamotte sand, which is mixed with chamotte marl.

It is not necessary to pressurize with a fan from a manual siren, as shown above. In principle, you can use any suitable one that will be at hand. It will be possible to attach it using metal-corrugated steel. This, by the way, will make working with the length meter somewhat more convenient. In this case, you will need to use an air drain at the dead end of the duct.

Of course, such a portable forge forge has more options than the homemade six-brick forge described above, since it has a larger workspace and an open top. But it is worth mentioning the existing the disadvantages of such a device:

• Such a forge has a non-separable design, and when the lance is cleaned, soot falls down. As a result, perforation of the duct occurs. To clean, the lining has to be broken.
• This homemade forge can only run on charcoal or coke.
• Its operation is very expensive: the consumption of carbon is comparable to the consumption of coal in real forges.
• It can work at a relatively low temperature: only up to 900 degrees.

Stationary

This is the most serious, complex and productive version of the homemade blacksmith's forge. It allows you to perform more complex manipulations.

Design

The manufacturing sequence can be identified by looking at the figure below.

Photos are numbered so that you can track the entire construction process of such a homemade forge.

A little advice for craftsmen who will make such a furnace: you cannot pressurize the air shower with a vacuum cleaner. In this case, there is a possibility that the fuel will blow out... It is better to find a snail from an auto-oven and subsequently use this particular device. Drainage to regulate the blowing will also not work, since the boost will be too weak. It is better to integrate the throttle valve into the air duct, and the lower lance cover should be made removable only for later cleaning.

Forge - A workshop for the manual processing of metal blanks, mainly by heating and forging. The handicraft blacksmith workshops are maintained by passionate craftsmen of simple and artistic forging, who, thanks to their hobbies, preserve the tradition of the craft.

Forges are equipped with a hearth (forge) and an anvil. The smithy carries out a huge amount of metal processing work: melting, pouring molten metal into molds, forging, welding, brazing copper and brass, hardening, stamping, drawing, bending, twisting, chasing and others. Finished smelting furnaces in this shop.

In one of the previous articles, it was described by a talented craftsman. Here we will consider what kind of forge for the forge this master made with his own hands. Creating a homemade smithy at home, practically in the yard, he used, as one of the forums aptly put it, “a minimalist-primitivist approach”. However, it should be noted that this approach turned out to be very effective.

The basis of the forge was a portable forge made of a pipe 1 cm thick, weight about 60 kg, bottom 1.5 cm. On the bottom surface, cuts were made with a grinder. Under the bottom there is a hollow part, to the base of which a pipe for supplying pressurized air is welded. Air is supplied from a vacuum cleaner. A door is installed in the hearth to reduce heat loss.

An anvil is a piece of rail welded to the channels. On the side of the anvil, there are fasteners for a vice, which can be installed, if necessary, for torsion and other work. The distance between the rock and the anvil is approximately 1 m, which makes it convenient to work.

Checking the coal forge shows how effective the device is. The video shows that using a small amount of charcoal for testing, you can accelerate the furnace to 1200 degrees.

Short introduction:

About three years ago I decided to make a forge - I got tired of making handles, I wanted to forge it myself. I searched the literature, the Internet, and asked my old acquaintances, blacksmiths. In general, to be honest, everything is not clear. Fans even make (!) A smithy in the bathroom (!). Vacuum cleaners are recommended, pots ... But I need - that small, but really "not on the knee."

I already have experience, I make very good knives: I mainly use bearing steel, as it is cheap and affordable. Basic principles of building a forge:

As cheap as possible.
Maximum materials available.
It is as convenient as possible.

So, first - what is needed for the forge.

Materials.

1) Ordinary brick, even white, even red - about thirty, I took from landfills and from the ruins
2) The grill is metal. Best of all - metal pallets, preferably cast iron. I managed to buy in a rural (household) store - cast iron pallets for the stove. If you wish, you can just put the fittings, or weld the grate. Functionally - coals will burn on it, so the thicker the better. Holes - accordingly, so that no more than one and one and a half centimeters (otherwise the coals will fall through.
3) Anvil. Of course, a piece of rail will do too. But the anvil is better. This is not only one of the most "expensive" parts, but you can also find figs. But I was lucky, I found it again in a rural store. But if you sharpen your knives, then the rail will be enough.
4) Fan. The most important thing is blowing. I bought in the construction market for two and a half rubles - this is the second costly part, but quite lifting.
5) A sleeve made of aluminum foil - put it on the fan, stuck a pipe from the water supply into it.
6) Water pipe, one and a half meters, diameter - the size of a can of peas.
7) A can of canning peas - a hole on one side, cut and bent on the other, plays the role of a directing and reflecting air stream of the structure - to blow it into the right place.
8) Large stump for installing the anvil.

Everything. Total budgetary costs (for 2010):

Anvil - 900 rubles
Fan - 2.500 rubles
Flexible aluminum sleeve - 80 rubles
Pallets 2 pieces - 160 rubles
Bricks are free, everything else is free.
Total: we fit into 4000 rubles easily.

How the forge works.

The forge is simple.
It is necessary: ​​to blow air from below, through the grate onto the coals. The workpiece lies on the coals and is heated. You can stick into the coals. Closed with bricks on the sides. Point. Everything.
Therefore (see Photo 1.) - first we lay out a rectangle out of bricks. I have NOT worried about "cement, fire clay, etc." - just PUT the bricks. Move - I'll fix it. Burst - I will replace. I don't need to forge a gate, I need blades. Quite.

Two rows of bricks can be seen on the top photo ... then - we continue to spread
On the photo you can see that a rectangle of bricks is made up of different colors. True, it rests on an iron box - at the bottom left - but it was just a box, I also used it. In fact, these are two walls of bricks in two rows with the letter "P". Width - for pallets. You can clearly see how I foolishly burned one of the pallets - I was trying to achieve a "white glow". I got it. Is it necessary?
I put bigger blocks at the head of the bed - I just found them, you can just make it out of bricks. Here is the front view from where the blower pipe is inserted.

Two layers of bricks, pallets rest on them with their edges, an iron box at the bottom - do not pay attention - we believe it is on the ground. Then we continue the walls and the butt - just a few bricks up.
A pipe is a piece of a water supply pipe for blowing.
You can see how the blower pipe is inserted.

Top view: two more rows of bricks were laid. In fact, almost everything is ready. But experience has shown that - since all this is in the open air - it is better to bring the walls higher so that it does not cool from the breeze. Therefore, I raised it a little higher (there is no photo, I just added two rows of bricks. But this year, two years - that's exactly how in the photo, and forged.

Now - blowing.

The next photo shows a fan on a wooden pallet (whipped together) with an aluminum sleeve put on. The fan costs money - but here even though the vacuum cleaner is old, even though the furs are homemade, it is important that the air is supplied where it is needed and conveniently. The pipe does not heat up.
Fan, purchased at the construction market.

It is important that the air supply should be from the bottom up, I put a crumpled canning can on the end of the pipe, which turns the air flow from the horizontal upward - this is more than enough. Banks - free
The sleeve is put on and wrapped around the fan with wire. No tightness, everything is grabbed, just to hold on. I'm not worried. In the next photo on Sun. case - fan output. The crumpled end of the aluminum sleeve is clearly visible, I put the pipe there when I work.
Fan output.

As I said, further - we take a can of canned peas, tin. We put it on the pipe. The bent cover is a reflector, we direct it upwards - and we put the pipe under the pallets. We put the pipe into an aluminum sleeve, crumple it and tie it up with a wire. We cut in the blowing. You need a switch, step on with your foot - turn it off and on, so that it doesn't blow in vain, when it's not necessary - your hands are busy.

Further - the stump, placed in the disk from the wheel, is covered with sand. In principle - any such basis, the shobs are not staggering. On the stump - an anvil (a piece of rail or piece of iron is more massive) - and forward. Everything. Someone already has that - I managed to buy an anvil - together with a fan, these are two of the biggest expense items. There would be no money, I would take a piece of a thick channel or a rail. The main thing is that everything is working.
And here is a general view of the forge at work. If you need to shelter from the wind, I report a wall of bricks. I need a length (for example, I forged a one and a half meter spit from reinforcing bar) - I remove bricks from the end - etc. Everything can be rebuilt in a minute.
Forge at work.

Good luck, guys! The forge is great. I forged knives for myself - the main thing is that your hands are untied, and you can really not lick your lips at other people's records - but make your own gizmos. But this is a separate story!

I forgot to add about safety: sprinkle sand around, when forging ALWAYS let a bucket of water next to it (but do not drink during and after forging for about 20 minutes - teeth will crack, I’m serious) - because pieces of metal that have been severed hot can fly away and burn painfully. It is obligatory - closed clothes - I am in a wind jacket, in an apron - glasses also do not interfere. Shoes - boots, pants out, otherwise if a piece of metal flies in - you have to dance!

Now very many men are inflamed with a passion for blacksmithing. The beauty of red-hot metal transforming before our eyes into a beautiful forged product is mesmerizing. Many of those who want to join this craft are frightened by the technical side of the question: where to get or make a forge, what tools are needed, how to equip a forge so that a fire does not happen, etc. Here we will consider only the question of how to make a forge at home. All other questions, with a strong desire, can also be easily resolved.

Blacksmithing requires a forge and is not so difficult to create even at home.

Varieties of forge forge

A forge is a special device for heating metal.

It can be of a very different design and use different types of fuel. Lone blacksmiths prefer to use a forge fueled by coke. This type of fuel has a rather high price, but at the same time, its ease of use, as well as a high combustion temperature and a small amount of waste, compensate for any costs. One of the varieties of fine coke is called "koksik", most of the craftsmen prefer to use it, since there is no need to chop the coal yourself. Other types of coal can be used as fuel, as well as charcoal, but why take the worst if you want to do everything well? Petroleum products or natural gas are commonly used in large factories.

The second sign by which one can divide the forge into varieties is its design feature as openness, that is, there are open and closed types of forge.

Diagram of the device of a mobile open hearth.

A closed horn is a little more difficult to make an open one. Its peculiarity is that the device has a special chamber in which the metal is heated. This type of hearth is much more economical, but it imposes a limitation on the size of the workpiece outside its chamber.

The most common simple type of horn is open. It is extremely simple in structure, since it consists of a kind of container. A grate is installed on top, on which coals will burn, and air is supplied from below. Such a furnace has no restrictions on the size of the workpiece; it is placed directly on hot coals for heating.