Do-it-yourself installation of a wooden door in a bathhouse. Do-it-yourself bath door: self-installation and possible installation problems

A bathhouse in the country is the same integral attribute and a source of pride for our person on vacation, like a barbecue. And just like a solid device for preparing delicious meat, you can build a good bath yourself with your own hands. As a last resort - order a ready-made frame assembly, and make the doors and windows yourself. The sauna door should be ideally impervious to steam and easy to open. If it does not fit well into the box, heat will be blown out through the cracks. It is quite possible to achieve such a high quality by making it yourself.

Varieties of sauna doors: pros and cons

There is a huge difference between the door from the dressing room to the street and the door to the steam room or to the washing room. Although all these doors are bath doors.

Doors to the street

Such a door can be any - wooden, metal with some kind of cladding, plastic, MDF or chipboard. The main requirement is that it must have good thermal insulation. It is unlikely that you will enjoy sitting on a bench, resting, after a steam room and a font, so that you feel cold from the door. But it does not have to be resistant to high temperatures and very high humidity.

Metal door. It is very convenient both in operation and in installation. Pros: provides excellent tightness, does not change shape, withstands deformations of the log house to a certain extent, does not corrode with proper processing, keeps heat well. Cons: such a door is quite expensive, condensation will surely accumulate on it without good insulation. If you have a pool outside, then in winter, running back after water procedures, you risk freezing to this door, touching it with a damp hand. However, you can choose the option, lined with wood, or with wooden handles. It is impossible to make a metal door on your own - you can only install a ready-made one.
Condensation will not accumulate on a metal door with a well-insulated box, but in winter it is dangerous to touch it with wet hands from the outside
Plastic door. It has the same advantages and the same disadvantages as metal, although it is relatively cheaper, and it is impossible to freeze to it in winter. It will not work on your own either - you just have to install the finished one.
A plastic door does not freeze like a metal door, and is cheaper
Wooden door. In a wooden bath - the most logical option. Pros: environmentally friendly, with proper fit - it is airtight, has the ability to deform along with the log house, without collapsing, provides excellent thermal insulation, it is easy enough to install. Cons: Without proper treatment, prone to infection by fungus and mold. You can make such a door yourself, but this is a rather complicated process, accessible only to people with carpentry skills.
A wooden entrance door is most suitable for a wooden frame, but it must be protected from decay
Metal frame door with filling. The door is made of a welded "skeleton", any non-combustible insulation is placed inside, on both sides it is sheathed with plywood, chipboard or board. The advantages are the same as for a metal door, but it is much cheaper, and in terms of thermal insulation properties it is much better, it is impossible to freeze to it, and it is much easier to make it yourself than a wooden one. There are practically no downsides.

When choosing a heater for a metal entrance door to a bathhouse, you need to remember about its purpose and operating conditions.

Corrugated cardboard, which is positioned as insulation, cannot be used as insulation. Its thermal conductivity is very high.

Corrugated cardboard does not retain heat well, therefore, it cannot be used as insulation for the front door.

In the same way, foam blocks cannot be used, they are very flammable and emit a lot of toxic gases during combustion.

Foam blocks emit toxic substances when heated and are very flammable, so they do not insulate the doors to the bath

You can make insulation with polyurethane foam, which will penetrate into all corners of your structure, but it is also flammable and also releases gases during combustion.

It is also not recommended to use polyurethane foam to insulate the door to the bathhouse, because it emits harmful substances when heated.

It is better to use non-combustible mineral wool, it is environmentally friendly and cheap, but due to its high hygroscopicity, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier on both sides - foil or polyethylene. However, it can "settle" inside the door during operation.

When insulating with mineral wool, it is imperative to lay a vapor barrier frame

Excellent insulation for such doors is a heat-reflecting insulation "Isover" made of foamed polyurethane with one-sided or double-sided foil coating. It has minimal thermal conductivity and is non-flammable.

Fiberglass insulation Izover "Sauna" retains heat well and has a special foil coating to protect against wet steam

The best solution is Rokwool ready-made insulation. This is mineral wool of basalt rocks, non-combustible, produced in the form of a bar or sheet, therefore it is not subject to deformation.

Rokwool insulation is made from stone wool and is sold in the form of slabs or beams

Steam room doors

The doors to the steam room are used in much more difficult conditions, and more stringent requirements are imposed on their material.

Metal door. Metal is not used as a door to the steam room.
Glass door. It is very pretty and quite comfortable. Pros: the inside of the bath and the thermometer are visible, it is clear to what state the steam is dispersed, what temperature and whether someone has become ill, in terms of its heat-resistant qualities, glass is the leader among door bath materials, it does not heat up and does not burn. A fungus will never grow on such a door, and caring for it is quite simple. Cons: it is almost impossible to make a glass door with your own hands, and buying it is quite expensive. In addition, such a design provides for a mandatory clearance of about 2-3 centimeters at the bottom, due to which a draft will appear in the steam room. In addition, due to the temperature and seasonal deformations of the wooden bathhouse, the door will bend slightly, which can lead to cracking of the glass. For all these reasons, glass doors are often used not in wooden steam baths, but in saunas or hammams.
Glass doors in steam rooms are not used due to possible damage due to temperature deformations
The door is made of heat-resistant plastic. In terms of its qualities, pluses and minuses, it is very similar to glass. The only difference is that it has greater resistance to deformation than a glass door.
Heat-resistant plastic is more resistant to deformation, so it can be used as a material for a door to a steam room
Wooden door. This is the most logical and correct option for a wooden bath on the site. Pros: the ability to build with your own hands at a low total cost, the same low cost when buying a finished door, ease of installation, good thermal insulation, environmental friendliness, beauty. Cons: relative fragility, susceptibility to swelling, deformation, decay and fungus. But such a door must meet the most stringent requirements. Any gap will be a pathway for steam to escape and heat loss. On the one hand, the door must withstand extremely high temperatures, on the other, rather low ones. Therefore, there is a high probability of condensation formation on its inner surface, and perhaps if it is a sandwich with poor thermal insulation, then inside, which is very bad - it will begin to rot at an accelerated rate.
The wooden door to the bath must be absolutely airtight and withstand large temperature drops
The door is wooden with insulation. In the manufacture of doors from thin boards, insulation is used. The frame of the assembled door is laid with insulating material, and then covered with a sheet of plywood or chipboard. You can sheathe the door on the insulation with a clapboard. Many ready-made wooden doors for a bath are already a sandwich of a frame, sheathing and insulation inside. The requirements for insulation are exactly the same as in the case of a metal frame.
It is better to insulate a wooden frame bath door with mineral wool
Combined door - wood + glass. A wooden door with a heat-resistant glass insert has the advantages of wooden and glass doors, despite the fact that it is cheaper and has no gaps at the bottom. It is easier to make it with your own hands than a pure glass one. But it is more expensive than wood and much more laborious to manufacture: such a door can only be made by a true craftsman.
It is much more difficult to make a combined door to a bathhouse than a wooden one.

Photo gallery: samples of bath doors

It is most logical to install a wooden door in a log bath. The door to the bathhouse can be decorated with a carved wooden handle Craftsmen create unique designer sauna doors A glass door with a pattern can be placed at the entrance to the sauna The narrow door to the steam room helps to reduce heat loss Wooden doors are often a real work of art. Plastic doors do not heat up like metal doors and last longer than wooden ones

Making a wooden door for a steam room

Let's assume that our bathhouse is a log house. This is the most common and optimal design.

Doors and windows can only be inserted into a log house, from the moment of its manufacture a sufficient time has passed, ideally at least a year, that is, after its complete shrinkage. But even after that, you have to constantly plow the building, since the logs always move relative to each other.

Choosing the size of the door

The door will be exposed to extreme heat and humidity. It is very important that steam not only does not escape with the door closed, but also that it escapes to a minimum when people enter and exit. Therefore, the door to the steam room is traditionally made low.

Its height depends on the height of the final ceiling of the steam room itself, and it, in turn, depends on the height and number of "floors" - shelves. But there is never a very high ceiling in a bath - usually it is at the level of 220-230 centimeters.

The steam is on top, and if you do not disperse it with brooms and towels, you can easily see that its thickness is usually 60–70 centimeters. With a well-designed bath, this is enough. The steam cools and descends, fresh portions take its place, but the thickness of this layer is practically unchanged. The height of the lintel of the door should not reach the vapor layer, better even with a certain margin.

We consider: 230-60 = 170 centimeters, subtract the "stock" of 10 centimeters, the result: the optimal door height is 160 centimeters.

Another condition is a high threshold. It prevents the coldest air, which is usually at the floor, from entering the steam room when people enter and exit, and protects against drafts when the door is closed. There is another ridiculous advantage: lifting a leg, we involuntarily remember the low headroom and avoid unnecessary head bumps.

The width of the door depends not only on the above factors, but also on your convenience. Usually it is not very wide, but also not too narrow so as not to squeeze. Let's take a width of 70 centimeters.

The drawing indicates the dimensions of the door and door frame

The door to the steam room must always open outward. This is the most important safety requirement. In case of burnout or heatstroke, it is much easier to push the door out than to pull it towards you.

Preferred Materials

The door should not be strongly deformed, swell and dry out with fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Therefore, it must be made of dense, high quality wood.

Choice of wood

There are several options for choosing wood for making a door to a bathhouse:

We choose coniferous pine - this is a harmonious relationship between price, properties and ease of processing. She has a rather high density - 520 kg / m.

The choice of the profile of boards and beams

A purely wooden door can be two- and three-layer - the middle is made of grooved boards, sheathing on both sides with clapboard, in this case, vertical strapping is required. But this is a time-consuming and material-intensive task.

A door from a grooved board with a vertical strapping is quite difficult to make

It is especially difficult to correctly make a strapping profile: this requires professional carpentry tools.

The strapping profile must be adjusted very precisely to the existing tongue-and-groove board. This requires professional tools and special skills.

We will make a single-layer door without insulation. This means that it must be assembled from thick boards without cracks. This in turn means that the board must be grooved.

A grooved board is a board with a groove on one side along its entire length and a protrusion on the other. Products from such a board are assembled like a Lego set: the tongue is inserted into the groove, often with glue. A properly manufactured grooved board has no roughness, knots or defects and is not helically deformed.

The tongue-and-groove board must be straight and level, without screw-like bends

Knots fall out over time, and when exposed to temperature and moisture, this will happen very quickly. If, nevertheless, it was not possible to buy a board without knots, you can restore the boards - cut out the knots with the so-called Forstner drill and insert plugs in their place with glue. But this can only be done for the outside of the door.

Knots in the board can be drilled out with a special tool and wooden plugs can be inserted in their place

For the production of the door, we also need a bar with a section described by the formula c / d<2, где c и d - стороны бруса.

The timber must be in the shape of a rectangle with an aspect ratio of 1: 2 or less

Table: material calculation

Position	Name	Specification	Quantity
1	Pine grooved board	46х125х3000 mm	4 pieces
2	Pine profiled beam for strapping	50x50x3000	1 piece
3	Pine timber for a door frame	60x130x3000	4 pieces
4	Simple pine board for platbands	25x100x3000	4 pieces
5	Wooden bath handles		2 pieces
6	Beam for a jig	100x200x3000	2 pieces
7	Wood glue
8	Brass hinged door hinges	The orientation of the hinges is selected depending on the location of the door	3 pieces
9	Wooden bath door locks		2 pieces
10	Anchor bolts, self-tapping screws

Required tools

We choose the instrument we are accustomed to. Not every household has a milling machine, although it is more convenient and faster for them to choose the grooves when cutting and tying. But you can do with a chisel and a hammer. True, then the process will take much longer.

Milling machine (or chisel).
Hammer.
Mallet.
Clamps for fixing the door leaf (or a workbench with stops).
Electric saw or jigsaw (or ordinary wood saw).
Drill with a set of drills and grinding discs.
Screwdriver.
Planer, jointer (better - electric).
Vernier caliper, tape measure.
Hydro level (or plumb line).

You can buy tongue-and-groove boards, or you can make it yourself - provided that you have a milling machine or hand cutter, and you know how to work with them.

Making a wooden door

We cut out the required number of grooved boards along the length of the door with a small margin. The number of boards is calculated by simply dividing the width of the door by the width of the board. The resulting fractional number is rounded to the nearest integer.
We process the cut boards with a plane or jointer.
The grooved board must be processed with a plane
We assemble our door on a flat surface. It is better to do without glue, carefully combining the grooves with the grooves, board by board, and knocking out each board with a mallet. The gap between the boards should not exceed 1 millimeter.
We fix the assembled canvas with clamps or stops with wedges. Once again we process the canvas with a plane and a drill with grinding nozzles.
The grooved boards are connected to each other so that the gap between them is no more than 1 mm
Now you need to make the keyway. The cross-section of the timber for the dowels can be different. For example, the so-called "dovetail".
Dovetail keyway
We insert the two beams cut in the selected shape, starting from the side, into the grooves selected by the saw on the future door leaf from the outside and fix them on each board with self-tapping screws.
We mark the exact size of our door according to the assembled structure and cut off the excess with a jigsaw. The edges of the dowels are removed at 45 0. The leaf of a simple door without strapping is ready.

Video: assembling the door leaf

Now you can start assembling the box and decorating the doorway.

Assembling the door frame and door opening

We select the necessary grooves in the timber for the door frame. We assemble a door frame from a bar on self-tapping screws according to the dimensions of the canvas. We put the canvas into it. If it worked out exactly, then we mark the places for the hinged loops - they are usually located 25 centimeters from the top and bottom, and the third is in the middle.
We select recesses in the door frame and doors for hinged hinges so that they are outside. We put the loops in place. We have an assembled and ready-to-install door.
After assembling the door leaf and door frame, hinges are inserted into them and receive a ready-made kit for installation
Now you need to make a window on the doorway. Since the blockhouse "walks" constantly, an ordinary door frame will not withstand the changing load. There is a special technology, according to which only vertical parts are fixed on the log house, which neutralizes its deformation. We mark the hole for the door along the hydraulic level or plumb line and take out the tree according to the intended profile. The opening height should be 5–7 centimeters higher than the door height, so that there is room for deformation. Then we will lay this gap with tow and cover it with a platband. We trim the edges of the logs so that the platbands can be fixed.
Cutting out the opening is carried out according to the existing dimensions of the already assembled door
We prepare a bar of the corresponding profile for the casing. This must be done with utmost precision so that the jamb sits tightly on the spike. If the connection is too loose, you can put tow.
The installation of the casing starts from the threshold, then the vertical parts - jambs - are placed, then the upper spacer is installed. We fix the vertical parts on each log with nails. Horizontal can not be fixed.
The casing box is attached to the bath frame only vertically

Installing a wooden door

Video: installing a wooden door in a bath

Glass door manufacturing

It is almost impossible to completely make a glass door for a bath with your own hands. Therefore, if the opening is completely non-standard and completely excludes the purchase of a finished door, then they cut a glass sheet of the required size, select and order a door frame, hinges and handles in the store. And it's great if you can buy a standard prefabricated glass door. But you can install such a door yourself.

The glass door in the log sauna building is absolutely excluded due to the deformation of the log building. It can only be installed in brick or block buildings.

Glass door size selection

The size of the glass door is predetermined, as a rule, during the construction of a bath. In addition, such doors are not used in steam rooms, but in saunas and hammams. Therefore, there is no need to reduce the height of the door. There are predefined dimensions for finished doors.

Finished glass doors are standard sizes

But sometimes, knowing in advance the desired size of the door, you can fold the required opening already when laying the bath.

When building a bath, you can lay an opening for a door of a specific size

Required tools

Drill, puncher.
A set of hexagons and screwdrivers.
Hammer.
Hydro level (plumb line).

Table: Materials Required

Glass door installation

To install, we disassemble the door, separating the glass from the box, for which we untwist the screws on the box and the bolts on the hinges.
The finished kit is disassembled into two parts: glass and box
We remove the threshold from the box.
An upper crossbar and vertical posts are placed in the doorway using the hydraulic level, and are fixed to the opening with anchor bolts. Their heads, recessed into pre-made recesses, are closed with plugs.
Door frame elements are exposed on the hydraulic level and fixed with anchor bolts
If the box is completely vertical and the angles between the sides are exactly 90 °, you can put glass. This must be done by two people - one holds the glass, the second fixes the hinges.

Beautiful wooden handles complement the elegant glass door design

Our door is ready.
A glass door made of tinted glass looks great in any bath, the main thing is that it is not subjected to stress during deformation of the building
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Anyone who has the right tool, special skills, and also quite a lot of time and desire can make their own sauna doors.

In any bath there are several rooms that perform different functions, so each one will need its own door for fencing. There should be at least two doors in the bathhouse: the entrance door and from the steam room to a special rest room.

There are three types of sauna doors:

The main features of the sauna doors

When creating these doors, two main criteria should be taken into account - high temperature and humidity level inside the bathhouse. The first distinguishing feature of such a door is its size, the second is the materials used, and the last is the fittings used.

Bath door size

When making sauna doors, all dimensions are determined according to the principle of the greatest preservation of heat at the time of closing and opening the doors. In this regard, all bath doors have a smaller size when compared with ordinary ones. The required height of the sauna doors is 165–185 cm from the floor itself, and the width is 65–70 cm. It is worth paying attention to the threshold, the height of which should be more than 15 cm. Nevertheless, such small door sizes are used exclusively for steam rooms.

Materials for the correct manufacture of sauna doors

For sauna doors, you can also use glass, and wood... The glass has to withstand very high temperatures. However, the best material for sauna doors is still wood.

Here, as a rule, they apply - linden, larch, aspen, oak.

Fittings

Bathroom door fittings should be made of materials with very low thermal conductivity and resistance to high humidity. If you use, for example, metal latches and handles, then you can easily get burned from touching. In this regard, fittings are usually made of wood.

This applies to latches and handles, but it is advisable to take brass hinges, however, if it was not possible to find similar ones, then the metal hinges should be painted with a special paint against corrosion. Since the sauna doors open exactly outward, the possibility of getting a burn is almost impossible.

Manufacturing of sauna doors

After determining the type of doors, you can already start special work on the creation. For beginners, this process may well seem rather complicated, but it is purely a matter of experience. If you have never made doors before, then first you can buy cheap boards and practice on them at will. Further, this will allow you to make bath doors without any problems.

Since the door made of wood is considered the most optimal door for a bath, it is on its example that we will consider the whole process of creating bath doors. Before making the doors to the bath, as a rule, you need to make purchases. From the materials here you can not do without:

tongue-and-groove floorboards (width 50 mm, thickness 30 mm);
special pins and screws;
lining (dimensions - 12x96 mm);
loop (three pieces);
timber for strapping (dimensions - 60x80 mm).

From the tool, you can't do without:

hand-held circular saw;
hammer and mallets;
milling cutter with a set of cutters;
screwdriver;
clamps;
level, caliper, depth gauge, tape measure.

Making the door leaf

The manufacture of a door should always start with the formation of a leaf. To do this, you need to do the following:

It is necessary to take special grooved boards and cut them to the required length.

Then a spike must be cut off one of the boards, after which the surface is fouled on both sides of each board, you need to get an absolutely flat surface. As a rule, it is enough to remove 2 mm to achieve the desired result. Ideally, you should get smooth boards with a thickness of 26 mm.
You can start assembling the door leaf. First, a rough assembly should be made, the spike of the board is inserted into the groove of another, while they must be connected as tightly as possible. As a result, you can get a canvas of slightly larger dimensions in width than necessary. It's not scary. To get a canvas of the required width, you will need to cut off a little from the last and first board.
Having measured the desired size, less than 60-70 mm from the width of the entire door, and having marked it on the canvas, you need to remove the last and first boards. On a circular saw, everything unnecessary is cut off from them. It is important not to cut the side on which the groove is located on the last board, but on the first board the side where the spike is.
Further, the boards are assembled into one canvas. To do this, on the surface of the workbench, you need to lay out the boards and insert the spike of one board into a special groove of the previous one, having previously lubricated the groove inside with ordinary PVA glue. For a good connection, hit each plank with a mallet.
The canvas is left to dry for two to three days. So that during the drying period the canvas does not lead at all, it must be securely fixed on the workbench. To do this, you need to fix two strips of wood on the workbench, between which the door leaf is placed longitudinally. For normal fixation, it is necessary to drive in wooden wedges between the door leaf and the strip. A special sheet of chipboard is laid on top of the canvas and pressed with clamps to the table.
After drying, you need to check the canvas for minor defects. The slots are sealed with a special mixture of sawdust and glue, and all irregularities are smoothed out with an ordinary plane.

We make fittings and door trim

While the canvas dries up, you can start creating bolts and handles, as well as a special strapping for the door:

In the previously obtained blanks of the bars, you must select a groove. To do this, using an end mill and a router, you first need to select a deep and narrow groove. It is approximately 26 mm wide and 25 mm deep. After that, a wide, but shallow groove should be chosen on top of it (the depth is 10 mm and the width is 50 mm). A similar stepped groove in the harness is needed for the canvas, which was sheathed with clapboard. The lining should fit into the wide one, and all the grooved boards will fit into the deep one.

On the horizontal bars of the strapping, a stepped spike is made by means of a cutter, which corresponds to the groove. At the end, you need to assemble the strapping box and check the correct angles with a square. If necessary, you should finish the groove with a cutter to get absolutely right angles.

To make bolts and handles, it is necessary to use trims of boards and bars or pre-purchased blanks.

Clapboard paneling, door assembly

Now all that remains is to sheathe the canvas with clapboard, assemble the wooden bath doors together and make a box of doors. To do this, you need to do the following:

After all this, you can start creating the door frame. For this we use beams with dimensions of 100x100 mm. To create boxes out of them, it is quite enough to cut to a certain length and select quarters with a cutter. It is important that the depth of such a quarter is approximately 5 mm deeper. This is extremely important, because in the bathhouse, under the influence of constant humidity, the wooden door will swell and can easily jam. In addition, you need to remember that the vertical top bar will be slightly smaller than the width of the box, and the threshold should be at least 10-15 cm in height. cut the thorns on the planks and sill. Before installing the door frame, you need to assemble it and check the correctness of all corners with a square. If necessary, it is necessary to finish off the grooves, treat with a special anti-rotting agent and proceed with the installation of the door in place.

How easy it is to install sauna doors

When the doors are completely ready, you can install them. Installation begins with making special grooves in the doorway. We make them about 10 mm larger than the width of the door frame, this is necessary so that during installation you can easily correct the vertical position of your doors, open it with wedges. Then the box is installed in the grooves. It is important not to confuse exactly where the doors will open.

Important! It should be recalled that the doors in the bathhouse should swing open just outward.

Then you need to start a horizontal top bar and support it with vertical uprights. After that, the threshold needs to be tilted down to the bottom. Using the level, we follow the absolutely vertical position of the box. Having well aligned vertically, wedges should be driven into all the gaps between the box and the wall, this will fix the box in place. We fix the door frame to the wall using dowels, having drilled special holes for them in advance. When the box is well fixed, you can start installing the hinges for the door leaf. The very first hinge should be at a height of about 25 cm from the top of the door, the second - 50 cm, and the third - 25 cm from the bottom edge. This will help keep your doors from warping, especially if your canvas is very heavy. Now you need to hang the door leaf, and fill a felt roller around the entire perimeter of the box and seal up all the cracks.

Making a bath door is a rather difficult business, and it must be approached with responsibility. True, the result is able to surpass all the wildest expectations.

What should be a bath door? Constant steam and moisture create challenging conditions that not every product can withstand. The front door to the bath should keep warm well and prevent drafts, have a low water absorption level so as not to swell and dry out. Environmental safety is also an important aspect, since harmful substances begin to evaporate more actively at elevated temperatures, and after all, procedures in the bath should bring a healing effect, and not cause allergies. A ready-made door can be bought, relying on the manufacturer's conscientiousness. And yet, a personally made product is considered more reliable and sturdy. Let's take a closer look , how to make a door to the bath with your own hands.

Wooden doors are a traditional construction for a bath. With the right choice of raw materials, such products perfectly tolerate constant humidity and serve for many years. The most preferable is the blind construction. It retains heat better and is easier to manufacture. By type of construction, sauna doors are:

massive (from grooved boards);
frame (frame made of wooden beams, outer sheathing, inside - a layer of insulation);
paneled (assembled from separate curly elements).

All product variants are suitable for saunas. But for Russian baths, where, in addition to steam, a high level of humidity is maintained, it is best to use massive doors, while paneled and frame doors can serve as an entrance from the street to the dressing room

Material selection

The door block consists of several elements: box, door leaf and platbands. If the bath is built of logs, then the same material is used for the box as for the walls. In other cases, the entire block will be made from one type of wood.

The best materials are:

Oak. Has a high density of wood, durable and expensive material
Linden. Moisture resistant wood, not subject to swelling and decay. Has a light shade. When heated, it emits a delicate aroma.
Aspen. It has all the necessary properties and an affordable price.
Larch. The best material in terms of durability, fire resistance and high humidity resistance. It has its own antiseptics, which can easily deal with pathogens.
Cedar. Not susceptible to mold and mildew. At elevated temperatures, the tree releases coniferous oils that are beneficial to health. This variety is characterized by low resin evaporation.

It is important to choose not only a suitable variety, but also good quality wood. There should be no large knots or deformation marks on the material. The thickness of the boards is selected in accordance with the expected design parameters. As a rule, the size varies between 25-50 mm. So that the boards have a smooth surface, they are sanded.

Instruments

To make doors for a bath with your own hands, you will need a tool:

yardstick;
construction level;
hand saws or jigsaw;
chisel;
plane;
hammer, including rubber;
screwdriver;
sandpaper or, if available, a sander;
clamps.

For the workflow, it would be nice to have your own milling machine (stationary or manual). It will help you complete a number of operations faster.

Fittings

There can be several doors in the bath: to the steam room, the relaxation room, at the entrance. Increased requirements are imposed on the fittings that will serve from the side of the steam room. Usually, the indispensable attributes of a door are a handle and a latch. Better if they are made of wood. This is a guarantee that no one gets burned when they open the door of a well-heated bath.

Product parameters

First you need to decide how the design will look like, why it is compiled scheme where the parameters are taken into account. The size of the length and width will be slightly smaller than for conventional interior designs, since on bath door the duty is to keep hot air inside the steam room. The optimal width is 600–750 mm, and the height is up to 170 cm. But still, in order not to bang your head with forgetfulness about the lintel, the height of the product can be made larger. Be sure to take into account that in a Russian bath it is customary to make a high threshold (150-200 mm). The height of the sash is measured from it.

It is necessary to make the door for the bath so that it opens outward. Then the room will meet safety requirements. The hinges are hung from the side of the dressing room, due to this, they are less exposed to water and steam and do not suffer from corrosion.

If you plan to assemble a paneled door for a bath with your own hands, drawings are required. Such a product consists of several elements that must be precisely adjusted to each other. This is not an easy task, and it is not worth taking on it if you do not have confident skills in performing carpentry work. A simpler option is a do-it-yourself construction of boards or lining. But if this is the first time you take on such a business, do not be too lazy to pre-build the drawings.

Assembling a canvas from an array

To make a door with our own hands, we need materials:

grooved board;
a bar for a box (60x80 mm) and for a cross section of 50x45 mm);
rust-resistant metal hinges - 3 pcs .;
wooden handle.

Now let's look at how to make a reliable door to the bathhouse with our own hands step by step:

The grooved board is sawn off to the required length.
The surface of the boards must be roughened and sanded to make it smooth.
Planks for the canvas are laid out on a workbench or other perfectly flat surface.
Wooden elements are connected to each other using wood glue according to the tenon-groove scheme, inserting the tenon of one board into the groove of the adjacent one. The joint made in this way must be very tight, for which each board should be knocked out with a mallet.
When the canvas matches the specified width parameters, it is necessary to check the dimensions with the drawing, and, if necessary, cut off the excess on the sides of the structure.
Further, the manufactured shield is clamped in several places with a clamp and left for several days to dry.
The assembled door leaf is leveled with a plane and polished.
The key from the bar is made in such a way that it is a trapezoid in cross section.
Dowels made of timber are attached across the door leaf. Their length should correspond to the width of the sash.
With a wide edge, the dowel is superimposed on the sash. On both sides along the entire length, mark straight lines with a pencil along the crossbar.
When making cuts in the canvas along the outlined lines, it is necessary to take into account the angle of inclination of the side cuts of the key. As a result, the depth of the recess should be between 10 and 15 mm.
Joiner's glue is poured into the cleaned groove, after which a key is carefully driven into the recess from the side.
The last step is to hang the hinges and install the handle.

Production of prefabricated canvas

This construction requires the following materials:

Beam 60x80 mm. It will go to both the box and the strapping.
Grooved board 36x120 mm.
Lining made of natural wood 12x96 mm.
Pins, hinges, handles.

Do-it-yourself bath doors are assembled in the following order:

In order to assemble the timber into the frame, it is necessary to prepare its edges for connection to the “floor of the tree”. For this, grooves are cut to the depth of half of the timber, and the length of the recess should be equal to the width of the timber.
The frame elements are set on wood glue and clamped with several clamps.
As soon as the glue dries, additional fasteners are installed - wooden pins. For them, holes are drilled through the timber, joinery glue is poured into them, after which the pins are driven in there.
Since the door to the bathhouse must retain heat, a vapor barrier material, insulation and another layer of vapor barrier are placed in the inner part of the structure.
On both sides, the structure is sheathed with clapboard.

Other types of doors to the bath

Wooden doors are a tribute to tradition, so their popularity is still high. And by design, such structures are fully consistent with buildings made of logs and beams. However, the choice of sauna doors is not limited to wood models.

Glass doors often used for saunas. Visitors to the bath will not experience any inconvenience: the surface of the glass loses its transparency during special processing. For such products, there are many options for external design: stained glass decor, toning, fusing. Only skilled craftsmen undertake to make glass doors with their own hands, but the process of installing the finished block will be easy to complete on your own.
Reinforced plastic doors deaf or with a double-glazed window - an unsuitable option for a steam room. But this design can be considered as an entrance door, for a rest room or for a shower room. Do not worry that the product will not match the design. Modern models are laminated, as a result of which they acquire a pattern similar to natural wood. Manufacturing plastic doors for a bath is a complex process. Therefore, it is more convenient to purchase a ready-made unit and install it.

Options for insulating the door to the bath

Wood has a low thermal conductivity, so cold should not seep through a properly assembled sash from the solid wood. Another thing is when the product has a frame structure - the inner layer of the insulation loses its properties over time, and it has to be changed. How will the internal insulation be done e doors? Let's clarify that this process is only necessary for entrance street doors.

If it is necessary to replace the insulation, the door is removed from the hinges, the elements of the external design are dismantled, the sheathing sheet is removed, and then the old material is removed. The new insulation is tightly laid between the ribs of the structure, then the door is assembled and the fittings are mounted in place.

Often the reason for the appearance of drafts is not the door leaf, but large cracks along the porch, threshold. This often happens if you purchased a ready-made door made of poorly dried material. How to insulate the door in the bath with your own hands in this case? One of the most convenient and affordable ways is leatherette upholstery. In this case, the slots will be closed with warm rollers.

If the bathhouse is built from a certain type of wood, try to choose the same material for the door.
If decorative cladding is not provided for the sash, there should be no noticeable flaws, large knots on the surface of the boards intended for the manufacture of doors for the Russian bath.
So that the finished product is not subject to deformation, only one type of wood must be present in its design.
Cheap material is just a temporary savings for the wallet, which will eventually affect the quality.

Before you make the door to the bathhouse yourself, evaluate your capabilities and use some useful tips. Perhaps you should not take on this work without having experience with the tool, since this process is rather complicated and painstaking.

The sauna door is a simple design. But if not made according to technological requirements, it can cause a draft in the room or loss of heat. How comfortable the hygienic and healthy procedure will be depends on the correct assembly and installation of the door.

Sauna door material

The most popular raw material used in the construction of sauna doors is wood. The material given by nature is characterized by several undoubted advantages:

environmental friendliness;
ease of processing;
good thermal insulation;
attractive view.

Glass doors are often installed in baths. The transparent and durable material has the following advantages:

immunity to high temperatures (unlike metal and wood, glass does not get hot);
resistance to dampness;
ease of maintenance (glass can be cleaned by wiping with a sponge);
aesthetic appearance;
mold-proof.

The glass door leaf is absolutely transparent

An exclusive disadvantage of glass as a material for a bath door is that it is sold at a high price. It is practically impossible to make a glass sheet on your own, that is, not in a factory environment.

The raw material for the manufacture of doors for a bath room can be metal. It has the following positive characteristics:

long service life, because the metal is not covered with fungus and does not rot;
strength (the material always retains its shape).

But it is logical to use metal only in some cases, since it has a significant drawback. The material is not suitable for the construction of doors separating the steam room from the washing room. It is recommended to create only a structure installed at the entrance to the bath from it.

Sometimes the bath door is made of heat-resistant plastic, which has the following properties:

first-class durability;
long service life;
unsurpassed reliability;
insensitivity to moisture and temperature changes.

The disadvantage of sauna doors made of high temperature resistant plastic is considered to be their unattractive appearance. But you can forget about this significant drawback if you make a plastic door with an imitation of natural wood.

Creating a door structure from wood

The best materials from which you can make a door to a bathhouse are planks cut from oak, aspen and exotic trees. This raw material will not release warm air from the room, will not deteriorate under the influence of different temperatures and will serve for many years without problems. The material for the manufacture of a bath door structure is often pine. However, it is better to create doors from it at the entrance to the room. Pine is not suitable for the construction of a structure on the border of a washing and a steam room, as it can release resin when heated.

It is necessary to create doors in a room with high humidity exclusively from high-quality wood. It is customary to install a structure made of oak or cedar on the southern side of the bathhouse in order to protect the tree from oblique rain drops and thereby prevent the material from rotting.

Parts of a wooden door are supposed to be connected with dowels, which will make it strong and prevent heat loss.

Required materials

To understand what materials will be required in the process of making a wooden door, and how many of them will be needed, you need to draw up drawings with dimensions. If you plan to insulate the entrance structure with modern materials, then it makes sense to make it not small, as in the old days, but large - in full human growth. The traditional parameters of the door to the bathhouse are 2 × 0.8 m.

The construction of a bath door structure requires the purchase of the following materials:

4 boards measuring 3 × 20 cm with longitudinal projections on the edge;
timber with parameters 30 × 20 mm, which reinforces the wooden canvas;
a beam of 30 × 30 mm, necessary for strapping a workpiece made of wood;
adhesive to fill the grooves;
self-tapping screws;
hinged hinges;
wooden door handles.

Wanting to put the door not inside the room, but at the entrance, you will have to purchase additional materials:

mineral wool or other type of insulation;
leatherette and nails for its attachment;
wire;
batting;
locks and fittings for him.

To assemble the door frame you will need:

anchor bolts;
timber having a cross section of 11 × 6 cm;
polyurethane foam;
feigned planks.

Required tools

The construction of a wooden door for a bath is carried out using certain tools:

an electric jigsaw that cuts wood parts;
a screwdriver, which will come in handy when assembling the frame;
a planer that removes irregularities in the wood;
caliper;
clamps fixing the boards;
tape measure and building level for measurements;
hammer drill with drills of different sizes;
hammer and scissors.

Instructions for making a wooden door

Self-construction of a wooden door for a bath involves the following:

Boards with grooves on the edge are cut to length. Around the perimeter of the resulting canvas, a 3 cm wide beam is attached, which serves as a strapping. So that, as a result of joining grooved boards and a bar, a door with a height of 2 m is obtained, wooden elements must be cut to a length of 1.94 m.
The boards are attached to each other, conditionally creating a door 0.8 m wide (taking into account the strapping). One of the wooden elements is reduced by 60 mm using an electric jigsaw.
A spike is cut from the grooved board, which will be the first in the row. For this, it is advisable to operate with a plane. The butt end is processed carefully, eliminating irregularities and avoiding the formation of deformations and grooves.
Boards adjusted to the required dimensions are fastened together to see if the cutting is done correctly.
The beam, which will become the strapping of the wooden canvas, is cut into 4 parts: 2 segments 2 m long and 2 segments 74 cm each.
The grooved boards are glued using white adhesive and clamps. The tool is poured into the recesses on the blanks, and the clamps are attached at the corners. The boards will fit tightly into the grooves if they are assembled with a wooden mallet. In order for the work to go smoothly, it is recommended to place the canvas on a workbench, as if creating a press effect, which will help to better glue the door elements.
A few days later, the dried canvas is treated with a plane. You should not be zealous in this matter, because you just need to make the boards smooth by removing splinters.
Sections of timber (strapping) are attached to the sides of the canvas using self-tapping screws, the length of which is greater than the width of the wooden fragments. Fasteners are immersed into the recesses of the door leaf by 3 cm. In the area of the corners, it is recommended to fasten the workpiece by making overlaps.
Transverse strips are attached to the structure, making it possible to strengthen the rigidity of the door. If it will be installed at the entrance, then the elements located across the structure are attached to the front side of the door. The canvas, which will divide the rooms of the room, can be reinforced with only 2 strips fixed at the top and bottom of the door structure.
Door hinges and handles are attached to the door.
The finished structure is coated with a transparent agent necessary for wood processing and does not emit harmful substances when heated.

Attach insulation to the gaps between the transverse strips.
Close the door leaf with a piece of leatherette allowing to make allowances of 60 mm.
Nail the leatherette to the ribs with large studs.
Make rollers around the perimeter of the door frame, covering the gap from the door leaf to the door.

Installation of the structure

When starting the installation of a wooden door, it must be borne in mind that the structure should not be skewed. With tilted uprights, the door will not be able to open freely. So that the operation of the door structure is not difficult, it is installed in stages:

Video: how to assemble a wooden door

Assembling the glass door structure

Such doors are made only of glass, the thickness of which is at least 8 mm. This material is heat-resistant, that is, when exposed to high temperatures, it will not burst, and the door will not undergo deformation. The glass door leaf should not be closed tightly, so that the room is not stuffy. For this, a space with a height of about 5 cm is created between the door and the threshold.

Necessary materials

The choice of material is influenced by what kind of glass door you plan to make. It can be created from a single sheet and supplemented with metal hinges with a handle. If this option is not to your liking, then the door is made with glass inserts, that is, from bar or paneled boxes. You can independently create and install a one-piece glass sheet. It is advisable to purchase a sheet of standard sizes: 1.7 m high and 0.8 m wide.

In order for the glass door between the washing room and the changing room to look aesthetically pleasing, its canvas must be tinted or decorated with a pattern. Absolutely transparent glass is not worth buying for one more reason: it is invisible, and therefore everyone will hit it on the first visits to the bath.

In addition to the glass sheet, for the manufacture of the door you will need:

Instruments

To assemble a door from the prepared materials, you will need several tools:

screwdriver;
a drill with a drill for metal (if the door frame is made of metal);
glass cutter;
hammer;
building level.

Glass door creation and installation guide

Glass door construction is manufactured in stages:

Video: glass door installation

Making a door for a bathhouse made of wood or glass is a difficult task, but doable. Most often, the door leading to the bath room is made of wood, since only a few can use the glass cutter.

The door to the bathhouse is a simple design. But if it is not done according to technology, drafts will walk in the room, precious heat will go away, and the sanitary hygienic procedure will not be as comfortable as planned.

Materials for the manufacture of doors to the bath

Wood

Not every type of wood is suitable for these purposes. Natural material has a lot of advantages: environmental friendliness, ease of processing, great appearance. But since wood accumulates moisture and is not always resistant to sudden changes in temperature, not all types of material can be used for the construction of a structure. Otherwise, the door will deform, warp or dry out.

Timber prices

For the construction of doors, it is recommended to use oak, birch, aspen, exotic types of wood. Traditional and affordable pine can be used to make doors, but it is best used for an entrance structure rather than a steam room and sink.

Find out the professional advice on which one to choose from our new article.

Glass

Sauna door "Akma" 0.7x1.9 glass "Green Leaves"

Glass doors are widely used in Turkish and other baths. And this is no coincidence. Glass perfectly tolerates high temperatures, humidity, and the panels are easy to care for. That is why a glass door to a steam room or washing room is a good option. The only drawback of these structures is the high price, since it is rather difficult to make a glass safety door on your own.

Metal

This material is strong and durable. But it is not customary to use a metal door to delimit a steam room or a washing room. Most often they are installed as an entrance structure.

Heat resistant plastic

This material has excellent performance characteristics: strength, reliability, durability, resistance to moisture and temperature extremes. If you wish, you can order a canvas with an imitation of natural wood or other material.

Do-it-yourself wooden door to the bath

Despite the abundance of various materials, natural wood is preferred when arranging a bath. For self-production of the entrance or interior door to the bath, the following materials are needed:

tongue-and-groove board for the manufacture of cloth (30 x 200 mm);
timber for reinforcing the canvas (30 by 20 mm);
timber for strapping the door leaf (30 by 30 mm);
glue for filling grooves;
self-tapping screws;
hinges for fixing the door to the frame.

If you plan to make an entrance door, then the following materials are additionally needed:

insulation;
leatherette;
special nails for attaching leatherette;
wire or fishing line;
batting;
lock fittings.

For door frame

Choice of door dimensions

In the old days, the door to the bathhouse was always much smaller than the standard one familiar to modern people. Small dimensions made it possible to reduce heat loss when entering and leaving the building. For old Russian baths, insulated only with moss, the preservation of heat was relevant.

Prices for doors for a bath DoorWood

Bath door

Modern baths, built according to all the rules with the use of innovative heaters, are distinguished by low heat loss. Therefore, the bath can be installed in a usual size, into which you can go in full growth without bending.

The standard dimensions of the door are 2000 mm by 800 mm. These are the dimensions that the door leaf will have.

Door leaf manufacturing

Door structure with four panels

Step 1. The grooved boards need to be cut to length. The height of the door structure is 2000 mm. This size includes not only the length of the board, but also the strapping of the canvas. For strapping, a beam with a width of 30 mm is used. The beam is attached along the entire perimeter of the canvas. Therefore, you need to carry out a simple calculation: 2000 mm - 60 mm = 1940 mm. Boards are cut to this length.

Step 2. Calculation of the number of boards in the canvas. Web width with strapping 800 mm, without strapping - 740 mm. Since the basic width of the grooved board is 200 mm, you will have to cut one board lengthwise using a jigsaw.

Prices for the popular range of miter saws

Miter saw

Step 3. A protruding spike is cut from the first board. This can be done with a planer. The end should be flat, without grooves and deformation.

Step 4. The boards cut to the required size are assembled into a single canvas. This is a control check.

Step 5. The bar for strapping the web is cut into 2 pieces of 2000 mm and 2 pieces of 740 mm.

Layout

Step 6. Gluing grooved boards. For these purposes, you need clamps and white glue. Glue is poured into the grooves of the blanks. The boards are assembled into a single canvas and fastened with clamps at the corners. When assembling, you can use a wooden mallet to make the boards sit more tightly in the groove. It is advisable to place the canvas on a workbench, recreating the effect of a press for better gluing of the boards. The canvas should dry for several days.

Step 7. The canvas needs to be processed with a plane. It is not necessary to put a large removal, it is enough to lightly process the surface of the boards so that they are smooth, without splinters or oblique layers.

Step 8. Web binding. The bar, cut into fragments, is attached to the ends of the canvas with self-tapping screws. At the corners of the canvas, you can overlap the workpieces or use a tenon connection. The length of the screws must be greater than the width of the timber. It is desirable that the fittings plunge into the canvas boards by 2-3 cm.

Step 9. Fastening of transverse strips to strengthen the rigidity of the structure. If the door is entrance, then the strips must be attached on the outside. In the future, a heater will be placed between them.

If it is a door, then two strips screwed at the same distance from the top and bottom of the door are enough.

Step 10. Fastening door hinges and handles. If the door is located inside a building, the use of metal handles is not recommended. In the steam room, a high temperature rises during the bath procedure. The metal becomes hot and the handle can cause burns. It is best to use wooden fittings, which are absolutely safe for use and made in the same style as the door leaf.

Step 11. Finishing of the canvas. For these purposes, you can cover the tree with a transparent deep impregnation composition. It is important that the composition is environmentally friendly, does not emit harmful substances when heated, and protects the material from decay.

Door installation

It is important to observe the geometry of the structure with the box. In the event of a tilt or tilt of the struts, the door will open and close with an interference fit.

For the racks of the door frame, a beam is used, the width of which is 11 cm, thickness - 6 cm. The width of the racks of the door frame should be 6-7 cm greater than the width of the leaf. A groove must be cut in the body of the beam, into which the door leaf will enter. The gap between the leaf and the box should be several mm, since wood tends to expand in high humidity.

In the design of an entrance door that opens outward, the groove must be cut from the outside. This will minimize drafts and heat loss. If, for some reason, the groove is too large, you can use silicone seals by stuffing them around the entire perimeter of the door frame.

The frame is attached to the doorway using long anchors. The openings between the wall and the frame are sealed with construction foam and covered with platbands.

After making the box, you can start hanging the door leaf. For large and heavy structures, it is recommended to use reinforced curtains, at least 3 pcs. Two curtains are located at the top of the door leaf, one at the bottom. To prevent the door from being removed, one curtain is attached in the opposite direction, fixing the fittings on the weight.

Video - Installing the door to the bath

If the door was made to enter the bath, it must be insulated.

Step 1. Insulation is attached between the stiffeners (transverse bars made of timber). It is important that the material does not protrude beyond the wooden blanks. You can use mineral wool, thin isolon, glass wool. It is important that the material is not heavy and does not put additional stress on the door.

Step 2. Doors can be used for finishing. This material does not allow air to pass through, does not get wet, looks good. The leatherette is cut to the desired size (2000 mm by 800 mm + a margin of 60 mm on each side).

Step 3. With the help of studs with wide hats, the leatherette is nailed to the canvas. You can attach the material to the stiffeners that are located around the entire perimeter of the door. To make the door surface look more voluminous, a layer of batting can be placed on top of the insulation.

Step 4. Rollers are formed along the perimeter of the door frame, which cover the gap between the door leaf and the frame.

Step 5. To decorate the door, you can use a "carriage tie" - pull a fishing line or wire between the nails.

Thus, with a minimum set of tools, you can make a reliable and durable door to the bath with your own hands.

Video - Making a wooden door to the bath

TOP-5 main types of wood for sawn timber

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