Beautiful and luxurious. Queen of the gardens and flowers. It is not only the main decoration of floristic compositions, but also an indispensable foundation in cosmetology. This bush plant has the ability to bloom several times during the summer and delight its warm buds with its delicate buds.
  Unfortunately, diseases and pests of roses are not less common than other garden flowers. Even a novice gardener can fight them. Otherwise, the bushes will not bloom so often, and the leaves will become weak.

Diseases of roses - description and treatment methods

  Improper care or lack thereof will lead to the weakening of the rose bush.
  The lack of light and moisture makes the flower unstable to various diseases:

• Black spotting
• Powdery mildew
• Chlorosis
• Rust

Black spotting is a fungal disease in the form of black spots spreading over the surface of the leaves. The spots look like rays, with a strong infection, the leaves dry and fall off. Effectively help the removal of diseased leaves and their subsequent burning. Digging and tillage with chemical solutions.
  Powdery mildew, most often affects young shoots. It appears on the surface of the leaves in the form of a powdery coating, having spread completely throughout the bush leads to the death of leaves and the death of young shoots. Council, in the autumn carries out pruning of bushes, collect and burn leaves. Digging the earth with the turnover of the reservoir. This will minimize oxygen in the fertile layers. The fungal pathogen dies.
  With chlorosis, the leaves turn white or yellow, thicken and become fragile. Their edges twist. Most often, young parts of rose bushes get sick, and the tops of the shoots die off. For treatment and prevention, it is necessary to establish the composition of the soil. After all, this disease occurs due to a lack of zinc, magnesium, manganese, boron, etc.
Rust appears in spring on stems around new leaves in the form of a rusty mass. This disease is especially aggravated during wet spring. In rose bushes, metabolism and photosynthesis are disrupted. The leaves dry, the stems are deformed, the buds are weak. Digging the soil helps with rust. Pruning of diseased elements, burning of affected leaves and stems. Diseases of roses require timely treatment.

How to treat aphids on roses

The insect is located in huge quantities on the back of the leaves. The larvae are so small that sometimes it is impossible to make out. They grow rapidly, turning into females without wings, which produce offspring up to 10 times a year. By the end of the summer season, individuals with wings also appear. Such aphids already lay eggs, which will winter and in a favorable period new hordes of pests will appear again.
  Bushes damaged by aphids do not grow well, ugly flowers bloom on them, leaves fall, shoots become crooked. How then to process the bushes?
  Suitable products for spring treatment, before the buds have swollen chemicals: malathion, methation, horn. You can also mix kerosene with water - 200 g: 10 liters.
  Well-established and folk remedy:

• garlic or onions - 300 gr.
• tomato leaves - 400 gr
• water - 3 l

Chop the leaves and chop the onion (garlic), add water and let it infuse warm for several hours. Strain and bring to a volume of 10 liters. For greater efficiency, add laundry soap. Treat the bush for a week at least five times a day.

How to treat roses from a spider mite

Spider mite is a dangerous pest. If roses grow in greenhouses, it can breed all year round. They harm the leaves on the underside. They suck out the juice, thereby depriving the plant of nutrients.
  You can treat roses from a tick by spraying. The easiest way is daily treatment with cold water. Insecticides:

• Accrex - 0.08%
• Isofen - 0.05%
• Omight - 0.01%

When and how to process roses from a spider mite, it depends on open or closed ground. In the latter case, fitoverm and actofit are better suited. They also destroy larvae in the ground.

Tools for processing roses from pests: video

Remedies for pests of roses are selected depending on the time of year, the characteristics of the insects themselves and the soil. If the processing is carried out correctly, the bush will gratefully delight for more than one year with its flowers.

But also the work of a true gardener. Only they know what it is worth to decorate the site with a capricious representative of the genus. This article contains effective tips for caring for roses in the country.

When to take cover

Usually, the opening of the bushes is carried out with the first persistent spring heat, but depending on the weather and the region, the timing of the disclosure varies. The main condition is quite warmed up. First, it is necessary to make a partial opening, leaving the roses for a couple of days for ventilation.    If you used a shelter from a dense, for example, tarpaulin, then you can’t pull with the opening: opening bushes is much more dangerous than freezing. After removing the shelter, the shoots must be shaded.

Important!  To avoid burns on weaned weeds, take cover in cloudy weather.

Inspection and pruning of bushes

After wintering, healthy shoots should remain green, but the main dangers, such as mold, frostbites - longitudinal ruptures of the bark, as well as infectious burns are hidden at the base of the bush.

In spring, roses can have many frozen, diseased and broken branches, while the frozen shoots need to be cut off until the middle of the stem is white and the moldy ones are completely removed.

The signs of gray mold on the shoots are as follows:

• the upper section of the shoot rapidly turns brown;
• the shoot is covered with fluffy gray mycelium;
• the stem turns brown in parts;
• a gray coating appears on the shoots.

   After the elimination of such infected branches, the bush must be sprinkled.

Important!  Do not rush to cut the shoots covered at the base of the bush with a white coating. This spraying is a “snowy” mold that disappears in the sun in the first two weeks after removing the shelter.

Further circumcision is the formation of the crown of the bush. To do this, you need to select a couple of the healthiest branches and cut them obliquely with a secateurs to the first strong kidney.

Trimming branches is half a centimeter higher than an already developed bud, which grows on the outside of the bush, and not the inside.

Cutting above can cause wood to die. You also need to cut off all the shoots growing inside the bush. Try to shape the crown so that the center of the bush remains empty.

Rose garter

Flowerbed species, before hiding for the winter, are usually bent, so after opening and straightening the branches in the spring, the bush may seem one-sided.

This is fixable with supports. It is necessary to pry off the bent edge of the bush with a pitchfork and support it with wooden rods or tie it with a garden wire to the installed support.

Rattled roses should be tied to supports in the summer, forming the desired shape of the bush. As a support for a climbing rose, you can use stretched nets, arches, poles and conical structures.

Watering

In spring, roses require a rare but plentiful. Since the air is not yet extremely dry, and the soil is not overheated, frequent watering can provoke fungal diseases of the bush.

As with all plants, it is better to irrigate in the evening, when there is no direct sunlight.

Did you know?  The smallest rose in the world - the C rose, bred by the Indian botanist Sudhir Hetawat - has a 5 mm bud and, when opened, reaches a diameter of 1 cm.

Watering is more frequent as the soil dries. In particularly arid areas, it is recommended to install a sprinkler system.

Top dressing

In spring, roses, like the rest of the plants in your area, need to be fed. After the first winter after planting, it is enough to feed the bush - and.

  In this case, supplementary food should be applied along with watering or after it, so as not to burn the young root. in this case, the plant will be overloaded.

Further fertilizers are also accompanied by mineral fertilizing, which should include potassium, magnesium, iron and phosphorus. Such fertilizers are produced both in liquid form and in granular form.
Fertilizing is sufficient twice a year:

1. In the spring after trimming;
2. In the summer after the first flowering.

   Overloading the plant with fertilizers is much worse than not giving them at all. Frequent fertilizers are important when the soil is not sufficiently adapted for planting a particular species, or if you decide to transplant a bush.

Did you know?  To get 1 kilogram of rose oil, you need 3 tons of red rose petals or 5 tons of white.

Mulching

After spring dressing, spend.

This event helps the proper development of the plant: it keeps the desired level of moisture, prevents erosion of the root and leaching, reduces the amount, preserves soil friability and maintains temperature conditions throughout the year.

Mulching can be carried out regardless of the season and the stage of growth of the bush, but the best option, as when applying fertilizers, will be twice a year - in spring and late summer.
   Both organic (bark, hay) and inorganic (gravel, pebble) materials can be used as mulch.

  Mulching agricultural technology is simple:

1. Free the root area from weeds;
2. Cover the soil at the base of the bush with a small layer of mulch, without covering the branches themselves;
3. If it is an organic mulch, wait for the layer to decay, and mix it lightly with the soil;
4. Sprinkle a new layer of mulch.

   Mulch, which is suitable for any kind of plants, including roses, - mullein or chicken droppings. In this case, the mulching process is also a fertilizer.

Growing roses is troublesome, but enjoyable. Proper care of roses in the spring at the cottage is a guarantee that rose bushes will perfectly develop and delight summer residents with the charm of lush flowers and exquisite aroma.

Perhaps you can not find a person indifferent to roses. And every self-respecting summer resident will surely find a place for a couple of bushes of the queen of flowers, or even a whole rosary. But just planting is not enough. It is necessary to ensure timely care of garden roses, from the onset of the first heat to the coldest. In winter, the plants are in hibernation. In the spring, the foundation is laid for the successful development of rose bushes throughout the season. You should consider step by step how to do it right.

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  Spring action

The first thing to do with the onset of spring and the beginning of active snow melting is to protect the rose bushes in the garden from excessive moisture, because flooding can be detrimental to them. It is necessary to dig small bypass grooves so that the meltwater moves away from the bush.

If wintering took place under shelters, it's time to take them off. But this must be done gradually. As soon as all the snow has melted and stable heat is established on the street (it is very important that the shoots do not freeze), you should start airing the covered bushes. To do this, it is enough to slightly raise the covering material and leave it in this position for several hours. When the soil thaws about 15 cm, you can partially open the bushes from the north or east side. And after 2-3 days, choosing calm, cloudy, dry, dry weather, to fully open the bushes.

The next task is to protect the plantings from sunburn. Therefore, they must be shaded for several days with the help of paper, thin agrofibre or spruce branches. Then adaptation to the sun will be painless.

Now it’s time to rekindle the bushes. By the way, in the southern regions, where the rosaries may well winter without shelters, spring work begins from this stage. In garden gloves by hand, in order not to damage the young shoots, you should carefully scoop up the earth. You can use a stream of warm water. Then loosen the near-stem soil, and grease the grafting sites on varietal roses with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

If young shoots are not observed on the bushes, this does not mean that roses died after winter. You just need to wait a bit, because the shoots can be late.

When breeding on the plot of climbing varieties, it is time to fix them on supports (trellises).



  Troubleshooting

After the roses have been opened and unleashed, they should be carefully examined for freezing, aging and the presence of infectious diseases.

Frozen twigs will be dry, dark brown. They are definitely deleted. It happens that the overwintered bush looks inanimate. But do not rush to throw it away: it can grow from points of renewal. So cut the branches and watch the rose bush. Around May, he should come to life. There is an easy way to check whether a living plant or not: you need to move the bush. If it staggers, the root is dead; if not, it is viable.

It happens that warm weather at the end of autumn provokes sap flow, and the onset of frost causes it to freeze. As a result, cracks from large to small can appear on the shoots. When sap flow begins again in early spring, the cracks become a favorable environment for the penetration of pathogenic bacteria under the cortex. If large cracks are found during inspection, damaged branches should be cut off, and small frost holes should be disinfected with potassium permanganate or vitriol (1% solution). For convenience, you can take a small brush. Then all places of damage should be greased with garden var.

Moldiness can be observed in those plants that have not been subjected to autumn processing. It is necessary to wipe the formed mold and wash the area with iron sulfate or a copper-soap preparation.

The cause of aging is usually the late removal of the shelter. Red-brown spots on the shoots, which gradually darken towards the center, can testify to it. Spotting can spread to the entire branch. The infected shoots are cut to a healthy tissue and burned, and the bush is treated with a copper-containing fungicide. It can be copper chloride or a similar agent. With a complete defeat, the bush is not subject to treatment, only uprooting and burning. But shoots with small lesions can be left at least until the summer pruning after flowering.



  Necessary cropping

Caring for roses after winter includes pruning them. For work you will need a sharp pruner, garden saw and garden var.

A few important points that I would like to focus on:

• pruning is done every spring;
• it must be performed before the buds open;
• you can not leave hemp when removing the entire branch, they are cut into a "ring" - to the very bottom;
• sections are made at an angle of 45 ° above a healthy external kidney by 5 mm;
• when forming a bush, 5 strong branches are left, all the rest are removed to the "ring";
• secateurs should be disinfected after each bush.

Pruning roses is sanitary and formative. The first is sanitary pruning, it consists in removing old (over 4 years) and damaged branches, as well as shoots growing inside the bush. Sections must be coated with garden varieties or brilliant green to avoid infection. You should pay attention to the grafted plants: all wild shoots from the bottom of the grafting are also removed. Then the bushes are slightly spudded and the shoots are cultivated and the earth around them is copper chloride.

The goals of forming cropping are:

• stimulation of active growth;
• bush formation.

The timing of this stage of caring for roses in the spring at the cottage for different species may vary. For example, formative pruning of early flowering varieties is carried out in April before buds open, and hybrid tea, ground cover and climbing ones in May after they open.



  Types of Manipulation

Pruning can be weak, medium and strong.

For park and climbing roses, weak pruning is necessary: \u200b\u200bthe top of the shoot is cut off, and 7-10 buds are left on the branch. Short shoots will grow from them, which will bloom profusely in June. However, such flowers are not suitable for pruning.

The most common is medium, or moderately short, pruning. 5-7 buds are left on the shoots. Young branches will be longer, however, they will bloom later than with weak pruning.

With strong pruning, flowering will begin a month later. Only 2-3 buds are left on the shoots, from which powerful shoots will grow. It is not necessary to shorten the climbing varieties in this way, they may not bloom at all. But old bushes with strong pruning can be completely rejuvenated.

Tips on how to cut different types of roses in spring:

1. 1. Scrubs, climbing and park need weak pruning. In repeatedly flowering climbing varieties, the main (long) shoots do not touch, but shorten the lateral ones, and then a little. And once blooming varieties are generally not pruned in spring.
2. 2. Types of floribunda, tea-hybrid and polyanthus are formed using medium and strong pruning.
3. 3. Stem varieties are thinning and weak pruning, and ground cover - sanitary and rejuvenating.
4. 4. Miniature plants are carefully thinned out and 2 times shortened shoots.
5. 5. By trimming repair species, 6-7 buds are left on the branches. This will allow the plant to bloom violently this year and give a good increase in shoots for the next year.

  Plant nutrition

How to care for roses after pruning? When the first leaves appear, the plant begins to intensively consume nutrients from the soil. Therefore, you need to carry out the first feeding. How to do it right? Start by abundantly watering the ground around the bushes with warm water. Then, in a circle, at a distance of about 15 cm from the trunk, apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers. It can be Kemira spring or ammonium nitrate. The norms are prescribed in the instructions for use, and they can not be inflated. Roses - this is the case when a lack of nutrition is better than its excess. Then loosen the ground and again pour warm water. Remember this sequence: we water - we bring in dry fertilizers - we water again. You can pre-dissolve mineral fertilizers in water, and then make in liquid form.

After a week, you need to fertilize with organics. We pour 0.5 manure of a bucket of humus under each plant (it should be very rotten) and slightly deepen it into the ground. Then we water.

If it rains after the application of mineral fertilizers, the bulk of the fertilizers can be washed out of the soil with water, after 2 weeks, nitrogen fertilizing should be repeated.

I like pink flowers and foliar top dressing with calcium nitrate. Not only bushes should be sprayed, but also the soil beneath them. The procedure is carried out when dry warm weather is established in the evening.

Rose bushes are fed 2 times a year - in spring and summer (before the second flowering wave). If young plants are less than 2 years old, they do not need fertilizer. The nutrient soil in which they were planted will provide them with the necessary elements for active growth.

After pruning and top dressing, rose bushes mulch. This is necessary to retain moisture and create an optimal microclimate in the soil. For mulching, you can use rotted sawdust, hay, peat, humus or pebbles. Mulch should cover the ground with an even layer (4-6 cm), but not cover the trunk.

  Protection against diseases and pests

In order to prevent diseases and protect against insect pests, spring roses are treated with special means - insecticides and fungicides. The first time spraying is performed 3-4 days after pruning.

Solutions of kerosene (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water) and 3% copper sulfate protect well from diseases. To prevent fungal diseases, roses in spring can be treated with Fitosporin or a solution of wood ash.

The highly versatile and powerful RoseClear drug has proven its worth. When using it, you can immediately solve 2 problems: to protect from pests and diseases. The frequency of processing bushes in the garden is every 2 weeks. Preparation of the working solution must be carried out strictly according to the instructions.

For spraying, choose a calm day, and preferably evening. Do not forget about safety measures: before starting work, wear a respirator mask and gloves.

If it is planned to collect rose petals for making jam and for other food purposes, it is impossible to treat plants with pesticides. In this case, it is better to turn to folk remedies: use a solution of laundry soap (200 g of soap per 10 liters of water), infusions of nettle and tansy.



The flower care is completed with timely watering. Let it be not frequent, but plentiful.

Spring care of roses in a summer cottage may seem time-consuming and burdensome. But when roses bloom in all their glory, all difficulties will be forgotten. Only admiration and satisfaction from the work done will remain.

Without the prevention of diseases or their treatment (if necessary), roses will quickly stop growing and may die completely. Processing roses from diseases and pests is one of the most important care measures for these flowers.

To preserve these beautiful flowers in your flowerbed, we recommend that you read the material in this article. It describes the details of spring processing of roses from pests and diseases, gives symptoms and photos of common diseases, as well as methods for their treatment.

  Diseases of roses with a photo, description and treatment

There are several diseases that can affect rose bushes. Consider the most common of them, and tell you how to deal with the disease. You can see what a disease looks like in Figure 1.

• Powdery mildew

Appears in the second half of summer on varieties with delicate soft foliage. On young shoots, leaves, buds and fruits, spots of white powdery coating appear. When affected by a disease, plants bend and slow growth.

To eliminate powdery mildew, use special tools. Before spraying with chemical preparations, the affected shoots are cut off, treated with a decoction of horsetail, nettle infusion, thistle and infusion of mullein and ash. During the summer, if necessary, the plants are sprayed with copper-soap liquid, sulfur-containing preparations (for example, thiovit jet or topaz).

• Shoot burn

Appears on plants due to damage to the bark, with early cover of bushes in autumn and late opening in spring, as well as during spring pruning in wet, foggy weather. Brown, later black spots appear on the affected shoots.

   Figure 1. Signs of common diseases: a - powdery mildew, b - shoot burn, c - rust, d - gray rot, d - black spotting

In order to prevent burns of shoots, it is necessary to cover flowers in autumn only in dry weather. In the spring, it is necessary to remove the shelter in time, and cut the affected shoots and spray the stems with fungicides. The cutting tool should be disinfected throughout the season in a solution of copper sulfate (2%).

• Rust

Appears in the form of rusty tubercles on the branches, near the buds and on the upper or lower side of the leaves, petioles and young shoots. The decorative and winter hardiness of roses is reduced. To eliminate rust, infected plants are sprayed with a decoction of nettles, horsetail and wormwood, or a 0.02% solution of the strobe preparation, with an interval of 2-3 weeks. In spring and autumn, for prophylaxis, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux fluid.

• Gray rot

Appears during a cool, rainy summer in thickened plantings. Terry and densely terry varieties are especially affected. Kidneys, flowers, leaves, shoots are affected, they turn yellow, dry and fall.

When the first signs of the disease are detected, conditions of maximum dryness are created, the affected parts of the plant are removed and fed with manganese micronutrient fertilizers.

• Black spotting

Appears on the leaves in the form of dark brown spots. Such leaves fall off, and the plants overwinter poorly, weaken, and practically do not bloom the next year. To prevent the development of the disease, periodic feeding of plants with a weak solution of potassium permanganate is carried out, and when the first is detected, they spray the bushes with decoctions of nettle and horsetail.

From the video you will learn what diseases roses can suffer from, and what measures should be taken to treat.

  Types of diseases

All diseases are conditionally divided into several types, depending on the pathogen that provokes them. So, spotting, bacterial and fungal diseases are distinguished. An example of a bacterial disease can be considered bacterial root cancer, which is provoked by a separate type of microorganism and causes the formation of specific growths on the roots.

Fungal diseases are caused by a fungus, which, penetrating the plant tissue, forms a mycelium and quickly spreads not only to one bush, but also to other plants in the flower bed (for example, rust).

Spotting develops in conditions of high humidity and is accompanied by the formation of black, red or brown spots on leaves, stems, and sometimes even buds.

  Features

Each group of diseases has its own characteristics and characteristic symptoms, which should be taken into account when selecting funds for treatment in the spring from diseases and pests. However, in most cases, the treatment is carried out with special chemicals, which are universal, and are used to eliminate the symptoms of any disease.

  Pests of roses and the fight against them: photos

Roses, like other garden plants, are susceptible to pests that not only spoil the appearance of the bushes, but also significantly weaken them.

Pests of roses can be  (figure 2):

1. Caterpillars:  they eat leaves and buds, entangle leaves with cobwebs and twist them into a tube, where they pupate. When caterpillars appear for spraying, a decoction of tobacco, pepper, wormwood, infusions of burdock, onion and garlic with tomato leaves are used. With a severe defeat, the bushes are sprayed with solutions of actellik, karate or decis.
2. Spider mite:  a small, grayish-green mite by the end of summer turns bright red. It settles on the underside of the leaf, sucks out the juice and entangles the tops of the shoots with a web. Such leaves turn yellow and fall. The most severe lesion is observed in dry, hot weather. Affected leaves should be pruned and burned regularly. In addition, the lower part of the leaves is sprayed with decoctions of tobacco, horsetail, extracts of dandelion and garlic.
3. Rose sawfly:  the danger is represented by the larvae of the pest, which penetrate into the shoots, damaging them. As a result, the young stems droop and gradually die. If a sawfly is found, all damaged shoots are removed to healthy wood and burned. For prevention and treatment, use an infusion of hemlock, wormwood and a solution of the drug Actellik.
4. Green rose aphid: female pests are fixed on leaves, buds and young shoots. They drink the juice of the plant, causing its gradual death. To eliminate green aphids, they spray them with a soapy solution or decoctions of tobacco, wormwood, nettle and pepper.
5. Thrips:  these insects suck out the cell juice from the plant. Dry spots appear on the damaged plant, damaged organs are deformed and lose their decorative effect. Reproduction is facilitated by dry, hot weather. The affected parts of the plant are removed and destroyed, sprayed with infusions of nettles, celandine, and millennials. With a large lesion, they are sprayed with solutions of actellik, actar and confidor.

   Figure 2. The main pests: 1 - leaf-eating caterpillars, 2 - spider mite, 3 - sawfly sawfly, 4 - green rose aphid, 5 - thrips

It is recommended to attract birds to the garden with roses, which will eat the larvae and the pests themselves, thereby providing the roses with natural protection. From the video you will learn all about rose pests and how to deal with them.

  Diseases of a room rose and their treatment with a photo

A room rose, like other flowers for a home, can become a victim of infectious diseases. Their symptoms and treatment will be described below (Figure 3).

Note:  Almost all diseases of indoor flowers are caused by environmental factors: bacteria, viruses and fungi that may be in the air, or improper care: fever, humidity or excessive watering.

Most often, indoor varieties are affected by powdery mildew, which occurs when there is a lack of fresh air and increased humidity in the room. At the initial stage, leaves and stems are covered with a characteristic white coating, and then gradually twist and dry. To combat the disease, the chemical preparations Fundazol or Topaz are used.

   Figure 3. Signs of indoor rose disease (left to right): powdery mildew and black spotting

In addition, brown or yellow spots can often be seen on indoor varieties. These are signs of spotting, which can have both bacterial and fungal rocks. To eliminate the disease, all affected parts of the rose must be removed, and the plant itself should be sprayed with any copper-based preparation.

  Diseases of the Chinese rose and their treatment with a photo

The Chinese rose, or hibiscus, is a flower of extraordinary beauty. In addition, it is considered quite unpretentious, but with improper care or carelessness of the grower, even hibiscus can infect diseases and pests (Figure 4).

Note: Most hibiscus diseases can be easily identified by the appearance of the leaves. If they turn yellow, become stained or begin to fade, your flower urgently needs help.

The most common hibiscus disease is non-infectious chlorosis, which occurs when the dosage of fertilizers is not observed. The main reason for the development is a lack or excess of nitrogen, magnesium, potassium or iron in the soil. In this case, the leaves of the plant begin to gradually turn yellow and fall, and the stems become thin and weak. To eliminate the disease, you need to change the dosage of fertilizers.

The second most common disease is infectious chlorosis, which occurs under the influence of viruses or fungi. Symptoms are similar to a non-infectious form (yellowing and falling of leaves, general weakness of the plant), but in addition to them, hibiscus completely stops flowering.

   Figure 4. Symptoms of Chinese rose diseases: non-infectious chlorosis, infectious chlorosis, burn

In addition, hibiscus is very sensitive to lighting conditions. If you sharply rearrange the flower from shadow to light, burns may appear on the leaves. Also, bacterial spotting, which bacteria provoke, often affects the culture, and special chemicals must be used to combat them.

  Black spotting on roses: treatment

Black spotting is caused by a fungus that requires special treatment. It affects not only leaves and young stems, but also flower petals, so it will be difficult to miss the symptoms of the disease.

Spores of the fungus are carried by drops of water, so the disease develops especially actively in rainy weather.

  How to recognize a disease

Defining black spotting is quite simple. In case of damage, small black spots appear on the leaves, which quickly increase in size and become covered by fungal spores (Figure 5).

As the disease develops, the leaves begin to fall off, with the upper ones first, and then the lower ones. Having lost leaves, the culture quickly weakens and dies. To prevent this, it is necessary not only to take timely measures to treat the plant, but to observe some preventive measures.

  Black spotting: preventative measures

If you find signs of black spotting, all affected parts of the plant should be removed and burned immediately, as they are not suitable for composting.

   Figure 5. Symptoms of black spotting

The plant itself is sprayed with fungicides containing copper and zinc (for example, Fundazole), and for prophylaxis, a three percent solution of copper sulfate is sprayed before sheltering the roses for the winter.

  Rose Infectious Burn: Treatment

An infectious burn also belongs to fungal diseases, but appears in autumn and spring when the plant is at rest.

The defeat is facilitated by wounds remaining on the leaves and stems from frost or sloppy pruning. It is through these mechanical damage that the fungus penetrates and spreads rapidly, and it can affect not only rose bushes, but also blackberries and raspberries.

An infectious burn is a great danger, since it is long and difficult to treat, and if the use of chemicals has not brought the desired result, it is better to completely remove the bush.

  Signs of an Infectious Burn

There are several characteristic signs that will help to recognize an infectious burn. At the initial stage, dark brown ulcers appear on the stem, which gradually spread throughout the plant and can cause its death (Figure 6).

In addition, on weakened plants, ulcers can appear not only on the stems, but also on the leaves and young shoots. These spots contain fungal spores that are carried by water or wind.

  How to prevent an infectious burn

So that the infectious burn does not spread throughout the site, all damaged parts of the plants are cut and burned. For prevention, spraying with Bordeaux liquid is used, but this method can only be used before the buds open.

   Figure 6. Signs of an infectious burn

Preventive measures also include accurate pruning and careful shelter of bushes for the winter. If the stems of the plant are damaged, the fungus will penetrate through the cuts and spread quickly. Before sheltering, it is advisable to treat the plants with a solution of copper sulfate (3%) or Bordeaux liquid, and spray bushes with potash fertilizers in the second half of July.

  Powdery mildew on roses: treatment

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that affects mainly leaves and stems, but is sometimes found on buds. The development of the disease contributes to fever and humidity.

Powdery mildew should be treated immediately after the first symptoms are detected, because it affects not only roses, but also other decorative, vegetable and fruit crops.

  Signs of infection

A characteristic feature of powdery mildew is the formation of white plaque on leaves and stems. But this is far from the only symptom that can help identify the disease (Figure 7).

Powdery mildew also causes the formation of dark red spots on leaves and shoots. As a result of this, the leaves are deformed, dry and fall off.

  How to prevent mildew infection

To avoid signs of powdery mildew on the bushes, you need to regularly thin out the bushes and remove weeds. In addition, nitrogenous fertilizers cannot be applied too often and abundantly, and all plants must be treated with fungicides during budding.

   Figure 7. Powdery Mildew Symptoms

In addition, for prevention, spraying with mullein infusion is used with an interval of two weeks, and from mid-July, fertilizing with potassium sulfate is carried out.

  Disease and Pest Prevention

Roses get along well in the flowerbed and with other flowers (Figure 8). In addition, they protect the bushes from pests and diseases. For example, if you plant calendula or lavender near, you will prevent the aphid attack, and marigolds will protect against ticks and nematodes. Garlic planted next to a flowerbed will prevent fungal and viral diseases.

Note:  Not only plants, but also insects are able to protect the rose. So, ladybugs eat aphids, and lacewings and predatory insects destroy ticks and larvae of pests. Birds that eat larvae and adult pests also benefit greatly.

   Figure 8. Natural defenders of roses in the flowerbed (left to right): calendula, lavender and marigold

However, this does not mean that cultivation should be allowed to drift. In rainy weather, you need to monitor the condition of plants and periodically conduct preventive spraying with chemicals or drugs based on plants. If the first signs of the disease are detected, they immediately begin treatment.

The beautiful rose is loved by many gardeners. Luxurious buds decorate your site from spring to autumn. However, in order for the rose to endlessly delight our sight, it needs constant care. This is especially true for spring processing of roses.

In the spring, you need to remove winter shelters from rose bushes, install supports, trim the bushes and tie them up. But this is not enough. In order to help our darlings quickly return to life after the winter colds, spring treatment of roses should be carried out. Let's find out how to process roses after winter.

How to process roses in early spring?

The spring sun is very dangerous, since under its scorching rays you can get very sunburned. The same applies not only to people, but also to roses: opening them too early can lead to burns. Many gardeners recommend fully opening roses only when the first leaves appear on trees and shrubs. Moreover, rose bushes must first be opened on the north side, gradually accustoming the plants to the bright sun. After removing the shelter from the roses, they must be knocked out.

In the spring, our most important task is to do everything possible to make the root system work for roses. You can water the ground under the bushes with warm water. And after that, pour 3-4 liters of urea or ammonium nitrate solution under the bush at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon per 10 liters of water. Dry fertilizer of 2-3 g per bush can be planted in moist soil, however, keep in mind that fertilizers in liquid form are still more effective.

If shoots are damaged in roses during the winter, then here the flowers need your help. Mold-covered shoots should be washed with a cloth or brush in a solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate. If you use potassium permanganate, then make its solution bright pink, and if you decide to use copper sulfate, then use a 1% solution (10 g per liter of water).

In spring, the processing of roses can be carried out with full fertilizer with trace elements. Spread dry fertilizer around the rose bush on moist ground. After that, lightly loosen the soil with a hoe. Then it must be mulled with peat, humus or their mixture.

Processing roses in the spring from pests and diseases

Beautiful roses, unfortunately, attract the eyes of not only humans, but also various pests. Very often, a fungal infection of roses occurs. In addition, caterpillars, ticks, and aphids can attack roses. Therefore, in the spring, as soon as the green shoots begin to grow actively, it is necessary to treat the roses with special preparations. How to process roses from diseases?

There are many universal remedies for controlling rose diseases on sale, for example, the universal RoseClear - an insecticide and a fungicide combined together. The product prevents the appearance of black spots, powdery mildew, rust and aphids.

If you find rusty spots on the leaves, then your roses have been attacked by aphids or worms. Sprinkle the soil under rose bushes with a 35% solution of iron sulfate in early spring. For preventive purposes, you can treat the plants during the budding period with the 15th Bordeaux fluid. If necessary, re-processing can be carried out after 10-15 days.

When powdery mildew roses appear on young leaves, spray the plants with a solution of ash or mullein, which will serve as top dressing and fungicide.

In order for the treatment of rose bushes to be effective, it must be carried out in calm and dry weather. If it is hot outside, treat the roses in the evening. So you will avoid the likely sunburn in plants. In cool weather, you can do this during the day. Such preventive treatment is carried out twice a season: in the spring and after the first period of flowering of roses. When handling such drugs, be sure to observe safety precautions.