For various reasons, it is necessary to transplant gooseberries in a summer cottage: overgrown bushes, an initially improperly selected place or allocation of territory for construction. Sometimes you have to completely remove all the bushes, sending them to a new place of residence. At the same time, it is important to adhere to certain rules so that plants take root more quickly.

When to transplant

Gooseberry transplant can be done in spring or autumn. Spring transplanting is less desirable since:

• the plant "wakes up" very quickly after winter dormancy, in connection with this it is difficult to choose the optimal time for the procedure, because the procedure must be performed before the sap flow begins;
• during the formation of kidneys, gooseberry roots are undesirable to injure, since the main forces of the plant are aimed at developing the upper part, and not strengthening the underground.

As a result, the transplanted bush adapts slowly, develops poorly, the quality of the crop decreases.

In the summer, it is also undesirable to transplant gooseberries, because at this time the green mass is growing, damaged roots will adapt for a long time.

It is better to give preference to the autumn procedure, because:

• the bush has already completed fruiting, so all the forces will be directed specifically to strengthening the root system, and not the development of the upper part;
• he gradually passes into a stage of rest, so he can easily adapt to new conditions;
• transplanting gooseberries in autumn is much easier than in spring.

It is better to transplant gooseberry bushes in the fall after falling leaves. The optimal time for a culture transplant to a new place is September-early October. A month or two and a half is enough for the bush to strengthen before the onset of frost.

Choosing a place for a gooseberry transplant

The correct plot is a certain guarantee that the bush will not just take root, but also increase fruiting. When choosing a place you need to consider the following nuances:

• currants and raspberries will not be the best neighbors or predecessors, because they have common pests and diseases with gooseberries that can be inherited;
• gooseberries can be transplanted after potatoes, legumes and beets, clovers or lupins;
• the culture loves sunlight and humidity, but wetlands with stagnant water should be avoided: under such conditions, a fungus develops well against which many gooseberry varieties do not have protective immunity;
• the place must be protected from the winds.

An important role is played by the type of soil on which the crop will grow. It should have the following characteristics:

1. Ease. Gooseberries grow well on loam. Heavy soil can be alleviated by adding sand and peat, while clay that is too light is desirable.
2. Weak acidity. To check it, put a few leaves of currant or cherry in a container, fill them with boiling water (0.5 l), cover. When the water cools, a lump of tested soil is sent to it. If the water remains green, then the acidity is normal, if it turns red it is acidic, and the bluish blue indicates insufficient acidity. Acidity can be reduced by adding lime or dolomite flour.
3. Fertility. So that the bush can receive from the soil the nutrients necessary for it to restore strength and development.

Having picked up a site, they dig it up and clean it, removing all plant debris, mark out places for planting. After that, they go directly to the procedure.

How to transplant gooseberries

There are two ways to transplant a gooseberry bush: together with an earthen lump or a seedling.

Planting a bush with a lump

Before planting, adult old gooseberries cut out all the old and excess shoots. As a result, no more than 7 of the youngest and most healthy branches should remain. They are shortened by 1/3.

Now you can dig up the bush. For this:

• dig it around the circumference at a distance of about 30 cm;
• chop the thick roots that stretch further;
• carefully remove the bush from the soil with a shovel and lay it on the film so that it can be transferred to a new place.

When transplanting a large bush of gooseberry, the diameter of the part to be dug is determined by the size of the crown and is taken out very carefully so as not to damage the numerous roots.

Further actions are carried out in stages:

1. Pit preparation. It is dug up about half a meter deep and slightly larger in diameter than the size of the bush. Several buckets of water are poured into it.
2. Installation of a bush.
3. Sleeping voids with a mixture of earth and compost.
4. Tamping soil.
5. Abundant watering of a bush fixed in the ground.
6. Dry falling asleep and mulching.

If a massive gooseberry transplant is planned, it is important to consider the following:

• the landing site is prepared in advance, pits can be dug right before landing, but it is better to outline their place in advance;
• shrubs are planted at a distance of 1.5-2 m;
• between the rows leave 1.3-1.5 m.
• transplant bushes one at a time in separate holes;
• if the diameter of the dug hole is small, then it is increased.

By transshipment, you can transplant a small plant at any time (except winter, of course). You only need to dig in a portion slightly larger than the crown, so that when digging out as little as possible damage the root system. Further - according to the general scheme. In August, very small gooseberry processes can be transplanted using the same method.

Planting a seedling

The main difference of a sapling is the root system cleared of the soil. That is why they cannot be stored for too long, and they adapt to the new conditions for a long time, because their roots were injured when digging and cleaning. For the spring landing of gooseberries, this option is definitely not suitable, since the roots do not have time to adapt before the sap flow begins.

For planting, take a young bush (no older than two years), on which there are at least three main roots with a length of about 15 cm. The adnexal roots must also be developed. The aerial part consists of two shoots about 40 cm long, freed from leaves.

Preparation of gooseberry seedlings for transplantation consists in removing unhealthy roots and stimulating the entire root system in a specially prepared talker (1 kg of clay and black soil, a bag of Kornevin and 6 g of Actara are taken for 3 liters of water.).

Transplanting gooseberries in the fall to a new place with seedlings is similar to the previous method:

1. Prepare the pit.
2. A small mound of earth is poured into it.
3. Set a seedling on it vertically or slightly inclined so that the root neck is deepened by 7-10 cm.
4. Holding the trunk, they fill the soil, periodically compact it. At the same time, the bush is shaken a little so that the earth fills all the internal voids.
5. Shed and mulched, the branches are cut to the lower kidney.
6. For winter, seedlings are covered with sawdust.

Gooseberry care after transplantation is timely watering. Before the procedure, the mulch is removed, and after moisturizing, it is returned under the bush. Gooseberries do not need shelter for the winter. It is enough just to warm with sawdust.

Gooseberries have been grown in our country for a long time. In Russia, already in the 11th century, monks cultivated cultivars of this berry in the monastery gardens. Thus, gooseberries were domesticated much earlier than the popular currants and raspberries. Now   the fruits of this berry are appreciated for the rich composition of vitamins, medicinal properties and delicious gooseberry jam. Although the plant is unpretentious, grows in Russia, Ukraine, it is necessary to approach its planting with all responsibility. Planted in compliance with all the rules, gooseberries are able to yield up to 10 kg per year for 40 years. Let's take a closer look at the rules for planting gooseberries in the fall.

Gooseberries are planted both in spring and autumn. In the spring, landing should be done as early as possible, preferably in the first half of April. It is important that the plant has not yet moved away from its winter dormant state. If the buds begin to bloom, then the chances that the seedling will take root will be reduced. But also a shrub planted on time will have a worse survival rate in spring than with an autumn planting. What month to plant gooseberries, you ask? Gardeners with experience recommend planting gooseberries in late August - September - early October, depending on the region - Moscow Region, the Urals, and the middle strip of Russia.

The best time for autumn planting is the last week of September and the first weeks of October. However, you need to focus on the weather. The main thing is that the first frosts come no earlier than two weeks later, and that the young roots do not freeze. And it is better to choose a non-sunny day and no wind, so that the roots do not dry out in the open air.

With the right choice of planting time in the fall, the plant takes root in almost 100% of cases. Among the other advantages of autumn planting are:

• Before the cold, there’s time seedling roots managed to grow stronger and grow.
• Spring plant will begin to develop rapidly.
• Before the winter the soil around the shrub will settle well and compact.
• A plant that has taken root in the fall spring will begin the process of vegetation with full force, which will provide greater growth of young shoots by next fall.

Planting gooseberries in the fall, although it gives great guarantees, it is very important not to be late with its timing.

The dates given are averaged. You need to start from the climate of your region. For the southern regions, the dates can move to October-November, and for the northern regions, the beginning of September is also suitable.

If you have decided the right time, a significant point for a successful planting is the preparation of a plant seedling.

How to choose and prepare a seedling

When buying a seedling, be sure to pay attention to the following indicators:

1. Seedling age. It should not exceed two years, an adult plant will take root more slowly and adapt longer to new conditions.
2. A sufficiently large number of roots. Among them should be three or more skeletal, the length of which exceeds 15 cm. And much more fibrous roots.
3. Shoots of the aerial parts of the plant length should reach 30-40 cm.

After buying a seedling, it is prepared for planting. To do this, you must:

1. Remove leaves   with a seedling.
2. Do crop   dry roots.
3. Dip the sapling in the clay mashprepared in advance. To prepare the solution, mix clay and chernozem 1 kg each, 2 packs of Kornevin, and fill with 3 liters of water.

Seat selection

It is equally important to choose the right place for a future landing. Where to plant this fruit shrub? Do not plant gooseberries between trees, this will create a shortage of sunlight. The neighborhood with currants is also detrimental to the plant, because they are susceptible to the same diseases and pests. Well, if before planting gooseberries, legumes, beets or potatoes were grown on this land.

The soil should be loose, the bush will not grow well in too heavy and waterlogged land. If groundwater lies high on the garden plot, then gooseberries are best planted at the highest place, or create an artificial elevation for it from the ground.

The proper placement of the bushes when planting several plants at once matters. Gooseberries are growing quite well. An eight-year bush reaches 2.5 meters in diameter.

There are several patterns of planting gooseberries:

1. Sparse landing. In this case, the bushes are planted in rows at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other, and between the rows leave a space of 2 meters wide. After 4-5 years, the plants will grow so much that they will be one continuous strip.
2. Planting between rows of young fruit trees. Under such conditions, gooseberries will grow well until the crowns above it begin to close. After this, the bushes should be transplanted to a more illuminated place.
3. Combined circuit. Plants are planted in rows at a distance of 75 cm from each other, observing a distance between rows of 1 m. When, after several years, the bushes begin to close, they need to be thinned out after one, replanting part of the plants to a new place. After a couple of years, thinning needs to be repeated. This scheme contributes to a larger yield of berries and significantly saves space on the site.

To expedite a plentiful harvest, gardeners sometimes plant two seedlings at once in one large hole, leaving a distance of 20 cm between them. In the early years, the harvest will indeed be good, however, the bushes will soon begin to thicken and grow old. At the same time, their roots will be so intertwined that it will be almost impossible to plant the plants.

When you prepare the seedlings and choose a good place for the gooseberry, you can proceed to the direct planting of the plant.

Gooseberry planting technology in spring and autumn

Planting a plant includes the following steps:

1. In the selected area you need digging up the earth no more than a bayonet on a shovel. In this case, all lumps are broken and weeds are eliminated.
2. Dig a hole, its size should slightly exceed the root system of the seedling, on average it is 50x50x50 cm. This should be done a little in advance - a couple of weeks before the landing. The upper fertile land needs to be folded on one side, and the rest on the other.
3. Fertilize the pit. At 2/3, it must be filled with fertile soil mixed with compost (1.5 buckets), superphosphate (300 g), peat (1.5 buckets), ash (3 cups), ground limestone (1 cup). From above it is necessary to pour more fertile soil and fill it all with 0.5 liters of water.
4. Before boarding the hole must be left to stand in this form for a couple of weeksso that the soil has settled enough.
5. During a direct landing, set the seedling in the hole by tilting it slightly. In this case, the root neck should be located in the very center of the fossa, and the roots should be spread out on the sides. To avoid voids, the space between the roots must be covered with earth. Gooseberries are usually deepened 5 cm lower than at the last place of seedling growth   (this is easy to track by traces on the cortex). Thus, conditions will be created for the growth of additional roots and shoots from the buried buds of the plant.
6. The earth around the seedling needs trample and water abundantly.
7. Add mulch to the hole   from peat or leaves with a layer of 10 cm.

After planting in the fall, young plants do not require special care, until spring you can not touch them. Mulch and snowfall will help the sapling to winter. If you are afraid that there will be little snow in the winter, then you can additionally insulate the gooseberry with covering materials.

After planting in spring, for survival and growth, trim the plant. At the same time, cut the aerial part by 10 cm, and leave 2-3 buds on each shoot. During autumn planting, this pruning is not recommended. If you still decide to do it, then be sure to cover all the slices with garden var.

How to transplant an adult bush

When choosing a planting scheme with further thinning of the rows, it is important to know the rules for transplanting gooseberries. Plants should also be transplanted in the fall, so that the plants take root more easily in a new place. To safely remove the bush from the ground, dig it on each side at a distance of 30 cm from the base. Thick roots can be chopped off, this will not harm the plant. Further, with the help of a shovel, the bush is removed from the soil, together with an earthen lump, it is laid on polyethylene and moves to a new landing site. The technology of planting an adult plant itself is no different from planting seedlings.

Such a capricious plant as gooseberries does not require constant care of it. One time is enough to give him timehaving landed in accordance with all the rules, and for many years the plant will provide you with a tasty and healthy crop.

Construction, redevelopment of the site, very overgrown trees - this is an incomplete list of situations when a gooseberry transplant is required. Or maybe the place was originally chosen incorrectly, and only a few years later the owners realized this, found another, more suitable one. Be that as it may, the need to transplant bushes from place to place raises concerns and a number of questions. Is it possible to transplant an adult bush? When and how is it best to do? You will find the answers in our article.

Gooseberries can be transplanted in spring or autumn. Most gardeners prefer to do this precisely in the fall, when the plant has almost completed its annual vegetation cycle, begins to prepare for winter, that is, for the rest period. In August and September, the beds are usually prepared for the next season, from this point of view it is also better to make room for spring planting in advance.

In the spring it is more difficult to determine the time for a transplant, more precisely, it is difficult to correctly guess it. Gooseberries very early and quickly begin to grow, the very first warm days contribute to the rapid movement of juices, swelling of the buds - the plant rushes to flowering rapidly. The end of May is usually marked by the presence of small fruits. This means that you need to plant a bush before the sap flow begins, immediately after thawing the earth.

In the fall, you can decide on time much easier, knowing approximately when frost sets in annually. In late September or early October, after the bush drops its leaves, when all life processes slow down, it will more easily tolerate stress and the inevitable root injury caused by transplantation. Moreover, before the cold, he will have time to take root in a new place.

A prickly bush will take root well on non-acidic, fairly light and nutritious soil. Loam is best for him. If the soil selected for it is too light - clay can be added, if it is too heavy and dense - sand and peat can be added. The site should be dug up, cleaned of all plant debris, old roots, debris. If necessary, deoxidation of the soil, you need to add lime.

It is advisable to check the acidity of the soil before planting plants for which it is important. This can be done on your own, having previously prepared “reagents”.

To determine the pH of the soil, you need to take a handful of currant or cherry leaves, put in a half-liter jar, pour boiling water, close with a tight lid. After the water has cooled, a lump of earth is placed in it and the color change is monitored. Preservation of green color indicates a normal level of acidity, if a red tint appears - too acidic, if blue - not acidic enough.

Transplant Methods

When the place is defined and prepared (and on it you need to dig a hole with a depth of at least 50 cm and a diameter of up to 80 cm), it is time to proceed to digging and preparing the bush. Gooseberries are severely cut off - all old branches need to be removed, and new shoots, which will be no more than 7, be shortened by a third. Then, a circle with a diameter of 30-40 centimeters is dug around him. Usually the roots occupy the area indicated by its crown. A bush well dug to a depth of half a meter is removed using a shovel, pitchfork, crowbar or other tools, together with an earthen lump, stretching at the same time as the base, and transferred to a film or fabric. On this film, he is transported to a new place of residence. The roots are not specially released from the ground (unless they are diseased and not rotten), but they examine the visible parts, cut off a little, wounds sprinkled with wood ash.

A pair of buckets of water is poured into the prepared pit (it should be wider than the roots), the excavated soil mixed with compost or rotted manure is poured onto the bottom of the pit, and a bush is placed on top, the roots are straightened, and they are sprinkled with the rest of the earth. It is advisable to deepen the bush 5 centimeters more than it grew before. The ground is tamped, watered with a couple more buckets, it is advisable to make a hole or a groove with sides so that the water does not flow past, but gets exactly to the roots. After that, the area around the stems is covered with dry soil and mulched with peat or straw.

Some gardeners add fertilizers when transplanting, but this is quite dangerous for disturbed and trimmed roots. Most experts are inclined to believe that except for compost, wood ash can be added, and mineral fertilizers can be added in the spring.

If transplants require not one but several bushes, then more space is prepared. The entire large area reserved for gooseberry planting is dug up, cleaned, and the soil acidity or breathability corrected, if necessary. And then they prepare pits for each bush separately, between them it is desirable to leave a distance of more than a meter - usually 1.3 m or 1.5 m.

With a spring transplant, a hole is dug as soon as the ground melts.   It immediately becomes clear whether the stagnation threatens the landings. If it turns out that there is such an opportunity, you need to dig a hole deeper and make a drainage layer of small gravel or pebbles, and then pour the earth and plant a plant.

Transplant Care

Gooseberry is an unpretentious and viable plant. A healthy bush tolerates the transplant well. Moreover, a correctly carried out transplant in a convenient and fertile place can rejuvenate it, increase productivity. Transplanting an adult plant in the fall, you can wait for the harvest next year. The exception is the healing plant transplant, which grew in an inappropriate place, was sick. In this case, the crop may be in a few years - from 2 to 4, depending on the degree of neglect and pruning of the plant.

After planting in the fall, the plant is watered regularly (pushing and returning the mulch after watering to its original place) until the frost. If necessary, top dressing, fertilizers are applied in the spring, when the bush has taken root and began to grow. Then urea, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are added. If there is no urgent need, do seasonal feeding, adding a little fermented slurry or bird droppings to the water.

After the spring transplant, they also monitor the moisture, only you need not to overdo it, pay attention to the amount of rainfall. Further care consists in weeding, feeding, pest control. Since the roots are shallow, it is better to remove weeds by hand, after watering, resume the layer of mulch.

Relocation of berry bushes is a rather frequent need. Plants respond differently to the procedure, depending on the timing of the procedure. The transplantation of gooseberries in the fall to a new place requires special attention, since many factors have to be taken into account.

Transplant goals

Bushes are transferred from place to place for the following reasons:

1. Redevelopment of the site associated with the construction or the need to plant new crops.
2. Planting the cuttings or layering to a permanent place.
3. Plant transfer, if it was originally planted in an unsuitable place for it: insufficient lighting, stagnant water, and this leads to frequent illnesses, or nearby are unsuitable or overgrown neighboring crops that cannot be transferred.
4. Natural aging of the bush or its overgrowth.

Dates for spring and autumn transplants

Gardeners clearly believe that the best time to transplant gooseberries to another place is autumn. The thawed plant completes the vegetative cycle, plunging into a dormant state. Any manipulations carried out with him will not bring harm. From mid-September to mid-October, and in the southern regions a couple of weeks later, the best transplant dates.

The optimum temperature is from 8 to 15 ° C. Before cold weather, the bush should have time to take root in a new place, so the margin of time before frost should be at least 20 days. The deadlines when it is permissible to transplant gooseberries in the Volga region are the third decade of October, in the Moscow Region and the middle lane — until mid-October, in Siberia and the Urals region, transplantation begins in August. In the spring, you should not disturb the bush: it wakes up early, with the first warmth.

It is very difficult to catch the moment when the two most important factors for a successful transplant converge: a spring transplant is carried out when the buds have not yet swollen, but the ground has warmed up well. The experience of summer residents shows that this is rarely successful in practice. The root system in the spring works on the development of the aboveground part, the adaptation of the plant in a new place takes a long time, the risk of its diseases increases, it gives an unimportant crop.

Remember! Weak, diseased bushes are transplanted only in autumn, in extreme cases in summer, if their condition threatens crops growing in the neighborhood.

It happens that circumstances force the summer resident to solve the problem of whether adult gooseberries can be transplanted in summer. But during this period there is an active build-up of shoots, the formation of fruits. Therefore, the procedure is postponed until the fall, except in extreme cases.

Preparation of tools for work

To conduct a gooseberry transplant, according to all the rules, you will need tools:

1. Secateurs or clippers.
2. Shovel.
3. Pitchforks, sometimes crowbar, to extract the roots of overgrown adult bushes.
4. Ax, they can be chopped off with thick, dry or diseased roots.

Work tools sharpen well, cutting surfaces are treated with any disinfectant.

Landing place

The correct choice of a place for planting gooseberries is the main factor that determines the normal development of the bush, its fruiting and protection from diseases.

Illumination

The plant needs a lot of sunlight, so even semi-shaded areas are unsuitable for planting. An area open to the sun all day, protected from drafts and gusts of the north wind, is the best place for gooseberries.

Note! If you plan to plant bushes along the hedge or walls of the structure, at least one and a half meters are indented from them to ensure good ventilation of the bush and convenient picking of berries.

The best predecessors

It is best to plant gooseberry bushes in those areas where before that potatoes, beets, and legumes grew. As a rule, the soil after such crops (they are called row crops) remains loose, with a small number of weeds, and after legumes - saturated with nitrogen. The worst predecessors are black or colored currants, raspberries. Not only do they drastically deplete the soil, these plants have common pests and diseases, therefore they even avoid their proximity.

Soil requirements

The best soil for gooseberries is considered fertile loamy, with medium density. If the soil of the summer cottage is different from the ideal, it is ennobled by introducing baking powder or compactors. The plant loves neutral soil, and this factor completely determines the health of the bushes - in an acidic or alkaline environment, they immediately begin to hurt. If the pH of the soil in the area is far from neutral, corrective additives are added.

Important! The proximity of groundwater, moisture stagnation after rains or snowmelt is unacceptable, because gooseberries, including new varieties, have low immunity to fungal diseases.

Transplant technology

The work does not take much time from gardeners, if you follow the instructions on how to transplant gooseberries in the fall to a new place.

Landing pit

Prepare a pit for gooseberries a month before the estimated date of movement of the bush. During this time, the prepared soil mixture will sit well, nutritional supplements will come into contact with it. The depth of the pit is 50–55 cm, the perimeter depends on the volume of the root system of the transplanted bush. It is usually determined by the size of the crown, given the upcoming pruning.

4–5 buckets of water are poured into the dug hole and two layers are laid out:

• drainage from beaten red brick, pebbles, gravel or crushed stone of average fraction;
• fertile - part of the extracted soil with the addition of nutrients.

How to prepare and dig a bush

The step-by-step process of preparing the gooseberry bush for transplantation is as follows:

1. They trim, removing old and unpromising branches. Leave 6-8 healthy shoots. They are also trimmed by about a third.
2. Note! The root shoots are chopped off, because it will take away the forces required for full rooting.
3. Dig a bush around a circle, departing from the center by 30–35 cm.
4. Thick roots that go beyond the boundaries of the circle are cut.
5. With a shovel, pitchfork, in difficult cases with a crowbar, the bush is removed from the ground, laid on a piece of tarpaulin or plywood sheet.
6. Move the bush to a new place.

Traditionally, autumn transplantation of an adult gooseberry is combined with the division of an overgrown plant into several new bushes. For this, the mother plant must be completely freed from the earth and divided into parts so that each has a main and subordinate roots.

Transshipment (with the preservation of an earthen coma) is replanted by young, not very overgrown bushes. Only healthy shrubs are transshipped so that the pathogens are not transferred to the other place with soil. If the transplant is caused by the need to change the place due to illnesses, the earth is completely removed, the roots are carefully examined and rotten, dry, suspicious are cut out.

In order to plant a bush, a low earthen mound is poured at the bottom of the pit, a gooseberry is set on it, directing the roots along the slopes. Then the pit is gradually filled with earth with the addition of compost, moderately tamping. The near-stem circle is watered with water from a watering can with several receptions, adding soil mixture as it settles. You can deepen the root neck, but not more than 2 cm.

Gooseberry planting methods

There are three ways of planting: bush, tape, single. The bush method is suitable for spacious, sun-exposed areas. Planting pits are arranged in rows, keeping between 2.5-3.0 m interval between them. The scheme is chosen linear (in one row), chess, in several rows. Tape landing is carried out in trenches with a width and depth of 50 cm.

Seedlings are arranged obliquely, in increments of 50 cm. The fruiting bushes will look like a comb. They usually leave 3 shoots from each year’s growth each pruning. The advantage of the tape is that the bushes form a trellis, which is easy and convenient to care for on both sides. A single landing is chosen if there is not enough space.

On a well-lit area with dimensions of at least 2.5 × 2.5 m, one bush is placed in the center. Usually abundant fruiting varieties are chosen in order to get a decent amount of berries. Such a bush will become an element of the design of the site.

After landing care: watering, mulching, preparation for winter

Immediately after transplantation, gooseberries are watered and mulched soil under the bush. Prior to the final cooling, the main care concern remains keeping the soil moist, preserving the mulching layer. Watering is carried out every 3-4 days, pouring under the bush 5 l of standing water. Before pouring water, the mulch is pushed back, then again cover it with a trunk circle. With frequent rains, the frequency of irrigation is regulated based on the condition of the soil.

In order for the transplanted gooseberry bush to winter without loss, the trunk circle is covered with a thick layer of sawdust. In regions with cold winters, the base of the bush is covered with dry leaves. With the onset of spring, the insulation layer is removed.

Possible errors and their consequences

Preliminary excavation of bushes. Roots without earth dry out very quickly, and the plant does not take root well in a new place, it often gets sick. If this happens, the bushes are immersed for several hours in a tank with well-maintained slightly warm water.

Digging a hole on the day of transplantation. The soil does not have time to compact, which is fraught with excessive deepening of the root neck. In this case, when planting, the bush is fixed with auxiliary means so that the root neck is at the level of the earth's surface. During backfill, pay attention to the fact that a sufficient amount of rammed soil mixture falls under the base of the bush. Adding mineral fertilizers to the soil on the day of planting. This is generally not recommended, and if unknowingly granules and dry mixes have been added, the soil is replaced. Autumn transplantation does not practically harm the plant.

A gardener who knows when and how to transplant gooseberries in the fall, choose the right place for the plant and prepare it for planting, can count on a full, quick adaptation and an excellent berry harvest next season.

The need for transplanting shrubs in a garden or household plot can arise for a variety of reasons. All plants tolerate this procedure in different ways. Some cultures take root in a new and painful place for a long time, while others only need a couple of weeks to acclimatize. Gooseberries belong to the second unpretentious and non-capricious category. However, for the success of the whole event, several important conditions must be observed.

Why transplant gooseberries

Moving the shrub to another location may be required for the following reasons:

• redevelopment of the site due to the construction or planting of other garden crops;
• for the plant, an unfortunate location (excess dampness, lack of lighting, etc.) was initially selected, as a result of which it is poorly fruitful and often sick;
• neighboring cultures have grown over time and prevent gooseberries from developing normally, or, conversely, the shrub itself inhibits nearby plants, but it is difficult to transfer them;
• natural aging of the bush, requiring rejuvenation;
• very long bush growth in one place, as a result of which the soil is depleted.

Sometimes gooseberry bushes grow too much and prevent other crops from growing.

Nearby we planted two honeysuckle bushes and two gooseberry bushes. One honeysuckle bush turned out to be very high, although in principle it should not be. Gooseberries in his shadow did not grow well, there were few berries. I had to drag an adult gooseberry bush to another place, because it would have been much more trouble with its rival because of its overall size.

Spring or fall: when is it better to transplant

Gooseberries tolerate a change in habitat quite easily, it can be transplanted both in spring and autumn. And even in the summer, if such a need is urgently needed. But nevertheless, in the fall it is preferable to engage in a shrub transplant, because at this time the plant completes the vegetation, successfully prolific, and begins to prepare for wintering. Sap flow slows down, the ground part stops growing. A bush moving into a dormant stage is much easier to adapt in a new place, since it will immediately direct all its forces to the development of the root system.

It is best to transplant gooseberries in the fall, when the foliage has already circled

The best time for the transfer of gooseberry bushes is the second decade of September.   In regions with severe climatic conditions, this can be done earlier, starting in late August. In the warm southern regions, landing is possible even in early November. Before the onset of real frosts, at least 4-5 weeks should remain so that the bush has time to take root well.

If for some reason it was not possible to gooseberry in the fall, then a spring transplant is also possible. But there is a difficulty with the fact that this berry shrub awakens extremely early after winter. With the onset of the first warm days, sap flow begins, the kidneys swell almost immediately and burst. At this moment, it is no longer possible to touch the plant, since it will hurt for a long time in a new place and lag behind in development, and may not even take root at all. The main forces of gooseberries are directed to the growth of the upper part, and not to the formation of roots.

When the foliage has already begun to bloom, gooseberries are undesirable

In the spring, you can dig out the gooseberry bush only before the start of the movement of juices.   The most suitable spring month for this is March, when the snow cover is already gone. In the northern regions, this is also possible in early April. However, very often the earth still remains frozen and it will be impossible to extract the plant from the earth. It is necessary that the earth has already warmed up enough, but the plant has not yet moved to growth. Guessing this moment is sometimes extremely difficult.

Gooseberries can be transplanted in the spring, but before the swelling of the kidneys

In principle, in case of emergency gooseberries can be transplanted in the summer. But since green mass is actively growing at this time, the bush will restore a damaged root system for a very long time.

Last year, we had to urgently transplant a gooseberry bush in the spring, which was badly damaged by the snow that came off the roof of a neighboring house. The snowdrift was large and thawed for a long time; the plant was only dug up at the end of April with leaflets that were almost full. They chose another, safer place for him, where there is no drier danger of falling snow blocks. Gooseberries took root for a long time and almost stopped growing, the fruits that had begun to fall fell.

Video: when and how to transplant gooseberry bushes

Choosing a place for bushes and plot preparation

Of decisive importance for the normal growth and good fruiting of the bush is a competent choice of planting location, it is necessary to approach the choice of future location with all responsibility. The gooseberry feels most comfortable in open and sunlit areas most of the day.   Culture does not like piercing northerly winds and drafts, so it is better to provide protection from them in the form of a building wall or fence.

Gooseberries love sunny places protected from gusty winds

Despite all its moisture lovingness, gooseberries do not tolerate waterlogging and close occurrence of groundwater. Excessive moisture is fraught with the development of fungal pathologies and rot. It is preferable to plant the shrub in humus loams of medium density with an acid-base balance close to neutral (pH 6.5–7). Heavy clay soils are loosened by applying sand. A clay substrate is added to the sandstones, making the soil more water-absorbing. The acidity level is best checked in advance using a litmus test (kits are sold in gardening stores). If necessary, during digging, deoxidizers (dolomite flour, fluffy lime, etc.) are brought into the ground.

For gooseberries, slightly elevated areas with deep groundwater are suitable.

The best predecessors for gooseberries will be: beets, potatoes., Legumes and green crops. After currants, both black and colored (white, red), as well as raspberries, planting gooseberry bushes is strongly not recommended, because the soil after them is already extremely depleted and devoid of almost all the necessary nutrients and trace elements. In addition, these berry crops have common pests and diseases that can cause irreparable harm to a weakened and immature plant.

Do not plant gooseberries next to currants or raspberries, as they have common pests and diseases

The site must be dug up in advance, trying to select the maximum rhizomes of perennial weeds from the ground.

Methods and nuances of gooseberry transplant

Before proceeding to the transplant procedure, it is necessary to prepare the plant itself.   The bush is cleaned of old, broken, affected by pests or diseases, as well as unnecessary branches. The remaining young strong and healthy shoots, in the amount of 6-8 pieces, are shortened by a third.

Before transplanting, old and unnecessary branches are removed, the rest is shortened by a third of the length

1. A few days before the expected day of the main work, a landing pit is prepared. Its depth is at least 0.5-0.55 m, and the diameter should be slightly larger than the root system of the bush to be transplanted. The removable upper fertile layer is used to create the soil mixture.

   The landing pit is prepared in advance so that the earth settles and compacts

2. A 5-10 cm drainage layer of gravel, pebble, rubble or brick fight is laid at the bottom of the pit.

   If the area is very wet, then the drainage layer must be laid

3. The pit is half filled with nutritious soil mixture prepared according to any of the options:
   
4. On the right day, the bush is dug around the entire perimeter, departing from its base about 30–35 cm.

   The bush is dug from all sides.

5. Thick and long roots that turn out to be outside the circle are chopped off with a sharp shovel or ax.
6. Using a crowbar, pitchfork or shovel, the bush is loosened and carefully removed from the ground, being careful not to damage the earthen lump. Then it is laid on a piece of burlap or polyethylene and dragged to the place of relocation.

   The dug bush is laid on a piece of burlap or film and dragged to the right place

7. On the eve of the pit abundantly watered with water (3-5 buckets, depending on size).

   Well on the eve of transplantation well shed water

8. The plant is lowered into the pit, set in the center at such a height that the basal neck is below the ground by 5-7 cm.

   Gooseberry bush is placed in a pit.

9. The roots are evenly distributed along the bottom, sprinkled with a layer of the remaining soil mixture and compacted well, trying not to leave voids.

   The pit is filled with the remaining soil mixture.

10. Gradually layer by layer fill the hole completely. Each layer is compacted.

    The soil is well compacted

11. Abundantly watered (at least 2-3 buckets). When the soil settles, the soil mixture is still sprinkled.

    Transplanted bush watered abundantly

12. Lay a layer of mulch from dry leaves, sawdust, humus, etc.

    In the basal circle lay a layer of mulch

Video: transplanting gooseberries correctly

An adult plant during transplantation can be divided for reproduction.   For this, the root system is freed from the ground and cut into the required number of parts, each of which should have one main root and several subordinate.

When transplanting, the bush can be divided for reproduction.

Most often, young and not too overgrown bushes are transplanted using the transshipment method. It is very difficult to move old bushes with an earthen lump. If the shrub undergoes a transplant due to illness, then the root system must be completely cleaned of soil, carefully examined and cut off all diseased and suspicious parts of the plant.

There are several ways to plant gooseberry bushes:

• Kustov. The option is suitable for large and spacious areas. Pits for planting are placed in rows with an interval between plants of 1.2–1.5 m, leaving aisles of at least 2.5–3 m. Planting patterns can be:
  
• By tape. Planting material is planted in trenches with a depth of about 0.5 m, at a distance of 0.5 m between individual plants. Such a tape subsequently forms a dense dense trellis, the care of which is carried out in two directions.

  With a lack of space, gooseberry bushes are planted one at a time

Video: bush method of planting gooseberries

Gooseberry bush care after transplantation

Subject to transplant technology, the survival rate of gooseberries is quite high. But of great importance in the success of the entire event is competent post-transplant care.

Autumn transplant

The main autumn care for transplanted gooseberry bushes comes down to regular watering.   The soil in the near-stem circle must be constantly moist. But if it rains, then you do not need to moisten the plantings additionally.

If it is dry autumn, then transplanted gooseberries need to be watered

Some gardeners use pieces of roofing material or a thick film to retain moisture under the gooseberry bushes. Shelter is removed during irrigation, and then again returned to its original place.

With the onset of cold weather, plants are insulated with a thick (10-15 cm) layer of mulch from:

• dry leaves;
• sawdust (coniferous);
• hay;
• humus;
• peat;
• needles;
• cones;
• shredded tree bark, etc.

For the winter, gooseberries are additionally insulated with a layer of mulch

If there were traces of damage by diseases or pests on the shrub, then approximately two weeks after the transplant, they are treated with Bordeaux liquid (3%) and karbofos (drugs are diluted according to the instructions).

Spring transplant

In spring, it is especially important to prevent drying out of the damaged transplant of the gooseberry root system.   Watering is carried out at least once every 10-15 days, spending 2-3 buckets of water on one bush.

In spring, the transplanted gooseberry bush should be regularly watered.

When the plant begins to grow, it must be provided with any of the nitrogen-containing fertilizers:

• organics:
  • bird droppings (in a ratio of 1:20);
  • mullein (1:10);
• mineral dressings - are applied in liquid form per 10 liters of water (consumption per 1 bush of 5 liters of working solution):
  • ammonium nitrate (20 g);
  • urea (10 g);
  • ammonium sulfate (20 g).

In the spring, gooseberries can be fertilized with wood ash and humus.

Throughout the growing season, weeds are removed under the bushes and the soil is loosened. This should be done carefully, without going deeper than 2-3 cm, as the gooseberry root system is located close to the soil surface.

Weeds under the bushes need to be pulled out, and the soil carefully loosened

A very good spring fertilizer for almost any crop is an infusion of herbs. I fill a large vat (about 50 liters) with various organic residues (mowed lawn grass, weeds, tops, etc.), pour water to the top and insist for about a week. Then I dilute the liquid additionally (a half-liter can on a bucket of water) and water the plants.

Video: how to plant a gooseberry bush and how to care for it

Correct and timely transplantation, as well as competent care for gooseberries after this procedure, guarantee excellent survival of the bush in a new place and subsequent abundant harvests of delicious and extremely healthy berries.