Almost all gardeners love and grow strawberries, but not everyone knows when it is better and how to properly transplant it to a new place so that it continues to bear fruit. Having learned a few subtleties of transplantation, you can avoid many problems and grow a rich harvest of these tasty and healthy berries.

When is it better to transplant strawberries - in autumn or spring?

To get a good strawberry crop, you must follow the rules for caring for the crop. One of the main requirements is regular (1 time in 3-4 years) transplantation of plants to a new place.

Strawberries are transplanted both in the spring and in the summer-autumn period.

When landing, such factors are taken into account:

• Land for spring transplantation is prepared in the fall, and with autumn planting 2 weeks are enough. If the soil has not been prepared since last year, it is better to transfer the transplant to a later date, that is, summer or autumn, depending on the region.
• In spring, seedlings are weakened after a long winter. By autumn, plants give a strong planting material, which allows you to grow healthy plants that give a good harvest.
•   the first crop is harvested a year after planting. Plants planted in the fall, already next spring delight with their berries, which makes such a planting more attractive than spring.

In different regions, the time of strawberry transplantation in spring varies greatly. Due to the temperature characteristics of the climate, landing is from April to early June.  It continues until the plants begin to throw buds. Then the transplant is suspended and continues only after the end of fruiting.

Strawberry transplantation in the spring begins, after warming the earth to a depth of more than 10 centimeters, otherwise the plants die. With long snow cover melting or late spring frosts, spring transplants are often delayed. In this case, it is better to plant strawberries in a new place in late summer or autumn, when the ground is warmed up and remains frosty for more than a month.

Choosing the dates for strawberry transplantation, it is necessary to take into account the climatic conditions of the region: the duration of the warm season, the frequency of rainfall, the onset of the first frost. In any region of Russia, strawberries are transplanted into the open ground 1 month before the first frost.

From the moment of transplantation, young bushes must have time to take root, grow stronger, in order to bring a plentiful harvest in the future.

In the suburbs, strawberries are transplanted to a new place from August 15 to September 30.

Such planting allows you to get an earlier harvest of berries in the future.

Landing dates may vary due to weather conditions in the current year. The main thing is that before the first frosts the plants have time to take root, otherwise they will die.

In the Urals

The optimal time for a strawberry transplant in the Urals is the period from August 15 to September 15.

Plants are planted in many ways. Planting plants under a black film or agrofiber, an earlier harvest is removed in spring (1.5-2 weeks ahead of schedule).

When planting strawberries in open ground, plants with frequent rainfall are covered with a film.

In Siberia, strawberries are transplanted from late July to mid-August.

At a later planting, plants are planted under cover material or in a greenhouse.

In the Leningrad region

In the Leningrad Region, strawberries are transplanted from mid-August to mid-September.

In order for the plants to take root more quickly, they are covered with agrofibre. The material transmits moisture and retains heat, which are the main requirements for rooting plants.

Strawberry productivity is growing due to the appearance on the bushes of new leaves, mustaches and peduncles. After 3-4 years, the growth process in plants stops, the number of berries decreases, they lose their taste and become smaller. Over the years, the soil under the strawberries is depleted, diseases accumulate in it, pests multiply.

To obtain a good strawberry crop, regular updating of the soil and removal of old bushes from the beds is required.

For strawberry transplant, 2-year-old bushes are taken. Younger plants have not yet had time to grow stronger, and bushes of 3-4 years of age do not give a good harvest.

Strawberries propagate with the help of mustaches and dividing bushes.

Landing is done in open ground or under a black film or agrofibre.

In regions with unstable temperature indicators, seedlings are best planted under a film or agrofibre, which protect plants from negative environmental factors.

From mid-June to July, strawberry bushes give a mustache. For strawberry transplantation with a mustache, healthy, strong bushes with a strong root system, developed leaves and a core are selected.

On the maternal bushes, the strongest whiskers are left, growing closest to the maternal bush. Other flower stalks are trimmed so that the plants do not spend energy on the development of new bushes. The mustache, if they do not have time to take root, is sprinkled with earth and when 3-5 leaves appear, they are transplanted to a new place.

For planting strawberries, a light, non-flooded area with loamy and slightly acidic soil is selected.

• If on the site peat land per square meter of beds is made 1 bucket of river sand and 1 bucket of land.
• A clay bucket, 5 kilograms of rotted leaf litter, 5 kilograms of humus, compost or peat are brought into the sandy area.
• In a clay soil is added 1 bucket of sand, 1 bucket of peat and 1 bucket of overripe humus.
• With high acidity of the soil, wood ash or dolomite flour is introduced into the ground.

Are onions, garlic, legumes, crops, beets and carrots.Bad previous crops are eggplant, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, physalis and potatoes.

A strawberry plot is prepared in 1.5-2 weeks for planting. Complex fertilizers, steamed wood chips or rotted humus are introduced into the land cleared of weeds and roots. The soil is dug up to a depth of 25 centimeters.

Before planting strawberries, 10-15 kilograms of rotted humus, a glass of wood ash, 25 grams of potassium chloride, 40 grams of superphosphate are applied to the soil per square meter.

The soil is again dug up, leveled with a rake and treated with a potassium permanganate solution for disinfection.

Transplant strawberries in cloudy weather or in the evening.

Landing

If the site allows, then the best scheme for planting strawberries is a single-line one. The bushes in this case are planted in 1 row, in increments of 25-30 centimeters. Aisles are 80 centimeters. This planting scheme simplifies the care and access to strawberries from 2 sides during harvesting. The appearing mustache further makes the landing more dense.

In a small area, strawberries are planted in 2 lines. Sockets are planted in increments of 30-35 centimeters in one row, the same distance is maintained between the lines. Aisles in this case are also equal to 80 centimeters.

Caring for such plantings is more time-consuming, but with frequent feeding, crop yield does not decrease. Mustache with this cultivation is subsequently removed.

On the prepared bed holes are broken. Their depth should be equal to the length of the root system of plants.

Planting material is inspected for damage. Bad seedlings are rejected. Saplings with roots longer than 10 centimeters are pruned. A good seedling should have 3-4 developed leaves, a strong, developed root neck with a diameter of more than 6 millimeters and a dense core.

To avoid diseases, the roots of seedlings are placed for 1 hour in a solution of Actara and Previkur.

Prepared wells are filled with water. After absorbing water, the bushes are placed in the holes, the roots are straightened.

They are covered with earth so that the core of the plant is on the surface of the soil.

Strawberries are once again watered and mulched with dry earth or rotted humus, peat, steamed wood chips.

At the time of strawberry harvesting, bushes are selected that will later be used for dividing into individual seedlings. Selected bushes, after harvesting, are sprinkled with compost or rotted humus.

In this case, the roots of plants begin to actively develop, which later contributes to the rapid rooting of seedlings after transplanting them to a new place.

Overgrown plants are dug up together with an earthen lump. Earth neatly separated from the roots. The bushes are placed in a container of water. When soaking, the horns are separated from each other with a sharp, disinfected knife.

Each detached horn removes dry leaves, shoots, peduncles, and old roots. 2 young stems with light roots should remain on the seedling.

The roots are dipped in a clay mash, consisting of 3 parts of clay, 1 part of manure and water (water is added until the creamy state of the mixture).

Instead of a talker, you can use a solution of, a teaspoon of copper sulfate and 3 tablespoons of salt per bucket of water. The roots of the plants in this solution are soaked for 1 hour.

Prepared seedlings are laid out in the holes. The roots are sprinkled with earth, slightly tamped and watered with settled water from a watering can. The soil around the plants is lined with a layer of plant mulch or dry earth.

Measures to care for transplanted strawberries include regular watering, weed and pest control, and loosening of soil around the bushes.

When watering plants, water should not fall on the foliage.The first 7-10 days after planting, the seedlings are watered daily. Then watering is reduced to 2-3 times a week. The earth should be moist, but not wet, as overflow can lead to the death of strawberries. On a large planting area, drip irrigation can be arranged, which simplifies plant care.

If the beds were fertilized before transplanting, then the strawberry does not need additional feeding.

The roots of an adult strawberry can withstand temperatures of soil up to -7 degrees, but young bushes lack such frost resistance. Therefore, after planting strawberries, the soil around the plants is covered with mulch.

To shelter the bushes for wintering, needles, peat, sawdust, rotted humus, straw, needles are used. Only plant roots hide behind.

When snow falls, the bushes are naturally protected from frost with the help of snow infusion. In the absence of snow cover, plants are covered with agrofibre or spruce, pine spruce branches.

Inexperienced or novice amateur gardeners very often confuse the names of garden strawberries, Victoria and strawberries. However, according to experts, “Victoria” is one of the oldest, first varieties of wild strawberries brought to Russia. Transplanting "Victoria" in the spring is very relevant in areas with cold winters, which include Siberia and the Urals.

The need for a spring transplant

Strawberries, or strawberries, of any kind, including Victoria, are recommended to be transplanted to a new place every five years. The transplantation of berry crops is a necessary measure in the conditions of home gardening for several reasons:

• five years after planting on a permanent place, the berry culture ceases to form new growths, which can have a very negative effect on both qualitative and quantitative yield indicators;
• varieties with increased productivity carry out a significant amount of nutrients from the soil at all stages of the growing season, as a result of which the soil is depleted and ceases to provide the nutrition necessary for plant growth and development;

• prolonged cultivation of berry crops at the same place causes the accumulation of pathogenic microflora and wintering pests in the soil, which contributes to the rapid defeat of old and already weakened plants.

Most modern varieties and hybrid forms of garden strawberries are characterized by high productivity indicators, so they need enhanced nutrition. It is for this reason that plants need more often transplants. Experts recommend changing the plot for growing garden strawberries with continuous fruiting at least once every two years. Only in this case, the berry culture will bear fruit abundantly, and the harvest will be as tasty, healthy and high-quality as possible. As a rule, in most regions of our country, transplantation is carried out in the spring. Nevertheless, in order to choose the optimal time for transplantation and to understand in which month such an event will be most effective, you should know all the advantages and disadvantages of autumn and spring transplants.

How to transplant strawberries (video)

Advantages and disadvantages

Autumn transplantation is relevant only if the cultivation of a popular berry culture is expected in regions with subtropical and tropical climatic conditions. In temperate regions, transplanting in the autumn period may result in plants not having time to fully adapt to growing in a new place before the first significant frosts occur and, as a result, will die in the winter.   This berry culture belongs to the repair varieties,  therefore, the period of autumn transplantation can be transferred to a relatively late fall, but taking into account the possibility of rooting to frost.

In most regions of our country, spring is the best time for carrying out activities for planting garden strawberries. It is best to plant and transplant berry bushes from the second decade of April to the last days of May. Thus, during the spring, as well as in the summer and autumn period, the transplanted berry bushes will be able to fully adapt to the new growing conditions, they will easily tolerate winter colds and the next year they will form the most rich and high-quality crop.

Transplant Features

Landing "Victoria" is necessary in well-lit and level areas, closed from gusts of cold wind, according to the following recommendations:

• do not use for planting garden strawberries lowlands and areas with high humidity;
• perennial berry culture survives well and bears fruit abundantly on ridges where legumes, beets, onions, carrots, cereals, dill, parsley and garlic were previously grown;
• poor predecessors for this variety will be garden crops represented by cucumbers, cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, any nightshade crops and strawberries;
• at least a month and a half before the expected transplantation dates, a deep digging of the soil should be carried out and about three kilograms of humus per square meter should be added;

• optimal for cultivation is the area represented by sandy loamy soil, therefore, when digging, clean sand is introduced;
• before transplanting, the soil should be loosened to a depth of 8-10 cm, and then furrows should be made and spilled abundantly with water;
• the standard distance between the planted or transplanted berry bushes should be at least 20−25 cm;
• the standard distance between the rows should not be less than 50-60 cm, which will allow plants to provide an optimal nutritional area;
• immediately after transplantation, abundant watering with warm water and subsequent mulching with sawdust in a layer of 4-5 cm are carried out;
• planting berry bushes over a special covering material gives a good result.

Plots on which Victoria has already been cultivated will be unsuitable for planting and replanting garden strawberries for at least five years.

Subsequent Strawberry Care

Agricultural technology of cultivating the variety "Victoria" in the conditions of home gardening is simple and practically has no differences from cultivating garden strawberries or strawberries:

• in the last decade of April or early May, a good result is given by fertilizing with a complex of mineral fertilizers, which will provide abundant fruiting;
• for preventive purposes, it is very important to spray the berry plantings with a solution based on copper sulfate;
• watering is carried out in the morning or evening hours with the use of warm water warmed up in the sun;
• systematic removal of weed vegetation and loosening of the soil should be carried out, and if necessary, re-cultivation of the root system exposed as a result of irrigation;
• top dressing before mass flowering with potassium sulfate and nitrophos has a beneficial effect on yield and quality characteristics of berries;
• after harvesting, berry plantations should be fed with a solution based on nitrophoska and wood ash.

Strawberry Victoria: growing (video)

Transplanted plants need quality care. The main activities are aimed at accelerating the survival of berry bushes, as well as obtaining a plentiful and high-quality crop as soon as possible.

Good day, our readers. Today we will talk about strawberries.

This is one of the most beloved berries of children and adults.

Eating this berry is a pleasure because it has a pleasant aroma, sweet taste and juicy flesh.

And jams and compotes are an integral part of the stocks of almost every basement. Who has summer cottages, or personal plots of land required.

In this article we will talk about why strawberries should be planted in August. How to choose seedlings. And how to care for strawberry bushes.

Cooking strawberry seedlings

There is one belief. In order for the strawberries to grow well and give a large crop, it should be stolen from someone else's garden or front garden.

But as we understand, in order to get a high-quality and sweet strawberry crop, you should purchase healthy strawberry bushes. And especially when it comes to elite varieties. They, in turn, are expensive.

Frigo seedlings

Frigo seedlings have recently become popular .

These are the best selected bushes that are quenched by negative temperatures. To do this, seedlings are dug up in late autumn, placed in bags and stored at low sub-zero temperatures.

Despite its prevalence, berry bushes should be carefully looked after and monitored. You should buy seedlings in proven places, it is best to do this in large nurseries and greenhouses.

Saplings are usually sold from July to August. Before buying, you should carefully inspect each bush.

Bush selection criteria

It must meet the following criteria:

• Leaves  have a saturated green color, the presence of dots, spots, dryness is not allowed.
• Horn.  The thickness of the horn of the seedling should not be less than 7 mm.
• Bush  has an elastic, strong middle of green color.
• The roots  In open seedlings, the root length should be 5-7 cm. If you take strawberries in a peat pot, the roots should stick out at the bottom of the pot holes. If you choose seedlings in plastic cups, the roots should be throughout the entire volume of the glass.

As you know, this is the sequence of choosing seedlings when buying in nurseries and greenhouses. But often friends and neighbors exchange various bushes and varieties of strawberries. In this case, an inspection should be carried out according to the same criteria and the best samples should be selected.

Bush restoration

And before landing, resuscitation should be done.

To restore the roots they should be put in water. To accelerate root formation, specialized formulations can be added to water, for example root or heteroauxin. Professionals recommends using natural products honey (a teaspoon) or scarlet (one crushed leaf) instead of special products.

In order to increase survival rate, leave 2-3 leaves on the bush and this is enough. If you leave a lot of leaves, a lot of moisture gets lost through their surface, and since we still have a weak rhizome, the bush will acclimatize for a long time, get sick.

Prune roots  to a length of 4-5 cm. This is enough.

Young roots will give rapid growth to the whole strawberry bush.

Preparing the landing site

The soil

Strawberries grow well on chernozem soils with an acidity of about 6%, on sod-podzolic soils, clay and sand. Adult bushes are not afraid of drought. The use of lowlands or confined land is unacceptable.

Planting strawberries near ponds and surface groundwater are not recommended. Dark gray forest soil is ideal for strawberries.

Most importantly, strawberry bushes love the sun, and in the shade you will not wait for normal fruits.

A place

Before you start planting seedlings, you should clear the land of weed species of herbs. Inspect for pests and, if necessary, treat with special preparations.

If necessary, the land allocated for strawberries should be dug up. Two weeks before planting seedlings, we fertilize the plot.

Fertilizer

As a fertilizer, you can use humus, compost or droppings.

Usually this mixture contains:

• compost +
• ash +
• manure (horse or cow, rotten).

Such fertilizer will need 1 bucket per 1 sq. Km. m

Also do not forget about phosphates  (potassium sulfate and superphosphate).

They are added according to the instructions on the packaging.

Recently used already ready-made combined fertilizersthat contain everything you need for the growth and development of plants. Consultation with sellers of the store will be required.

10-12 days after fertilizing, our soil is ready for planting strawberry bushes.

Treatment of the old site

If your place does not allow transplanting strawberries to a new place, then you will need to pre-treat the land before planting.

To begin with, we breed baking soda 200 gr. (pack) in 10 liters of water, and spill a piece of land.

We wait about three days, and prepare a solution of potassium permanganate. Add 2-3 grams to a bucket of water. potassium permanganate.

These two compounds will help disinfect the soil from pests and diseases. Also, after 2-3 days, you can begin to plant strawberry bushes.

Place strawberries in crop rotation plot

If you have a large plot, then strawberries should be transplanted using the crop rotation rule. That is, we alternate the planting of various crops on the site.

The best predecessors will be onion and garlic. Then comes dill, parsley, radish, oats, salad and so on.

Do not plant strawberries in the places of planting of cucumbers, cabbage, potatoes, eggplant, peppers.

Planting strawberry bushes

Basic landing patterns

There are several strawberry planting schemes in total:

• Single line planting. From the name, everything is clear, we plant strawberries in a row. The distance between the rows is about 60 cm. And the distance between the bushes is 15-20 cm.
• Two-line planting. The stripes consist of two rows. The distance between the strips is about 60 cm. And in the strip, the distance between the rows should be 30 cm, and between the bushes the same as with the single-line scheme.

Dig the strawberry bush into the prepared soil so that the middle of the bush peeks slightly above the ground.

• If you deepen too much, the middle will begin to rot and the bush will die.
• If the roots are left on the surface, the middle will dry out, which in turn will lead to the death of the bush.

The best option is to plant seedlings on the hills.

After planting, be sure to water abundantly. Do not forget to cover the young seedlings with straw, sawdust, and then cover with a film to create a greenhouse effect. Subsequently, weed and water.

To save space, strawberries are planted in pyramids of various shapes and types, using hanging pots.

Step-by-step instruction

How to transplant strawberries in the summer in August with division and mustache?

According to experts, it is best to plant strawberry bushes on a warm cloudy evening. Before starting planting, we will analyze the main types of propagation of strawberries.

Mustache Reproduction

This method is the most tested and often used. Some simply buy several bushes of an expensive strawberry variety, and then propagate them.

Mustache Propagation Process:

1. We plant purchased copies of strawberry bushes and cut off all the antennae. We collect the first crop and select the best bushes.
2. After that, in August we plant these bushes separately. They are also called uterine. Then in the spring when the buds will be tied, we just cut them off.
3. And we leave the antennae, only the largest ones, we get rid of the rest.
4. Around June, rosettes are formed on the antennae (new delivery of leaflets).
5. We drop these sockets into the ground lightly and watered.
6. We are waiting for 3-4 weeks and the new seedlings are ready, we continue to spud, water and loosen the soil.
7. When you decide to transplant seedlings, before this 10-12 days you should trim the antennae from the uterine bush.
8. After this, the young seedlings switch to their own root nutrition. And the bushes are ready for transplanting to a permanent place.

The strawberry propagation sequence described above shows how easy and convenient it is to get your favorite strawberry seedlings with your own hands.

Transplanting

Planting seedlings is in the prepared soil.

1. The site is divided into rows, the distance between which is 60 - 80 cm.
2. Rows are best done in bulk.
3. Bushes are planted in prepared holes at a distance of 20 cm from each other.
4. The depth of the holes is approximately 15 cm.
5. Each bush is laid in a pit, so that the middle of the bush is above ground level.

Bush division

There is a second way to propagate strawberry bushes - this is the division of the bush itself. This method is usually used for strawberry varieties such as repair  Strawberry. Since these varieties have almost no whiskers.

A young bush at the end of the season has several growth points. The bush should be carefully divided without damaging the leaves and roots. Selected seedlings should have the most solid and strong roots, and not damaged leaves.

Planting strawberries using agrofiber and black film

Recently, gardeners began to use agrofibre or black dense film when planting strawberry bushes.

Advantages of the method

This method has several advantages.:

• Berries receive the greatest protection against pests.
• Under agrofibre or film, moisture persists for a very long time.
• It protects against frost.
• Weed does not grow under the films.
• After rain, the berries are not dirty.

Process step by step

We consider how much film we need, buy and start laying agrofibre over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe land.

1. The soil under the film is prepared as described above. We fix the edges of the film with stones or sprinkle with earth.
2. Then we mark the places for planting the seedlings and make accurate cuts crosswise.
3. Dig holes with your hand and lay the seedlings. The incision should be small so that weeds do not break through it.
4. After planting, water abundantly. You can not water a little bit, this will lead to the appearance of a fungus. D
5. for convenience, boards are laid on the film or fiber along which it is easy and convenient to move, and the film will not be damaged.

In cases where strawberries are planted in open ground without a film, it is recommended to plant parsley between rows to protect from slugs.

Strawberry bushes should be fed in a timely manner.

Conclusion

Now, not only experienced gardeners, but every lover knows almost all the details of growing strawberry bushes.

Thanks to these techniques, you will be able to get a rich harvest every year of these unusual, fragrant berries. Strawberries should be replanted in the summer, around August after flowering.

During the winter, it will take root, and next season you will get your very first crop. It should be noted that strawberries are a very tender berry. And subject to all the rules of planting and care, at your site you will be able to get a stable good crop for many years.

Victoria, strawberries or strawberries (about the differences in the names below) is a fragrant messenger of the coming summer and warm sun, the first portion of vitamins. It is believed that, having fed up on the berry's fill in early summer, you can stock up on vitamins and antioxidants for a whole year. But in order to grow a tasty and plentiful harvest, you have to work hard. The plant is capricious and whimsical, its cultivation requires knowledge and hard work. And it all starts with the right fit.

Confusion in the names

The names “strawberries”, “strawberries” and “Victoria” are considered synonymous by someone, and someone is ready to defend their differences. If you go into biological details, you can see the characteristic differences between strawberry (which is grown in our gardens) with strawberries, which can be rarely seen in cultural gardening. As for Victoria, this is only the rooting and become a household name of the garden strawberry, brought from the American continent. But, since the rules of agricultural technology of these garden crops are basically the same, we will not emphasize the difference and talk about this culture as a single strawberry-strawberry family.

Victoria landing dates in the fall

You can start transplanting Victoria in August and September. The dates are approximate, since they largely depend on regional climatic conditions, which can shift them in any direction. It is not only possible to transplant Victoria in September, but it is also preferable in the middle latitudes and in the Far East. In the southern regions (Ukraine, Moldova, Crimea, etc.), planting dates can be postponed even to the end of October. And in the Urals and in regions located in more northern latitudes than the Central part of Russia, it is necessary to complete the transplant in August or, in extreme cases, in the first decade of September.

Experienced gardeners believe that it is better to transplant garden strawberries in the fall. There are several reasons for this:

• The favorable period in autumn is more extended in time (it is 1-1.5 months), which is not only convenient, but also gives more chances to get into the favorable period according to the lunar calendar.
• The presence of a large amount of planting material.
• Favorable weather conditions for rooting outlets.
• Significantly less weed growth.
• Harvesting the next year. After spring planting, it is no longer necessary to wait for him in the current season.

Selection and preparation of seedlings

You can buy seedlings at specialized retail outlets, or you can take seedlings from your own garden if you are satisfied with their variety and yield. It is not recommended to buy strawberry seedlings from an unknown seller on the market, since sockets of far not the best, and sometimes degenerated, have lost their quality characteristics of varieties are often sold. Each seedling should have 3-4 healthy and always young leaves and roots no shorter than 10cm. The root neck should be at least 6 mm in diameter, the root system should be fibrous, and the leaves should be compact, not very long.

Immediately before landing, the following procedure should be carried out. A mixture of garden soil and humus is diluted with water to the density of good sour cream, any growth stimulator (Zircon, Mikras, Epin, Kornevin) is added to it. The roots are lowered into the resulting talker and slightly dried, after which they can be planted.

Site selection, soil requirements, predecessors

Regardless of whether Victoria is planted in the fall or spring, maximum attention should be paid to the preparation of the plot. The soil should be fertile, able to provide the crop with basic nutrition for at least 3-4 years. Acidity requirements pH 5-6.5. Groundwater should not be less than 60 cm to the surface of the soil.

The site is well weeded and checked for the presence of larvae of the Colorado potato beetle and wireworm. If their presence is detected, it is recommended to spill the soil with an insecticide solution first (Bazudin, Confidor, Marshal are suitable). Instead, ammonium nitrate can be added. The recommendation is particularly relevant for sites located in close proximity to forests.

The place for garden strawberries should be open to the sun, this is an important condition, but it should be well protected from winds and drafts. The ideal location is the southwestern side of the house with a slight slope of 2-3 degrees.

Another important factor is the predecessors. The best of them are considered garlic, onions, legumes, some types of herbs (parsley, dill, celery), radishes, carrots, green manure. It is undesirable to plant berry bushes after cabbage, pepper, cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, and also after asteraceae and buttercups. Grow Victoria in the same place is recommended no longer than 4 years.

Transferring old bushes from place to place is absolutely pointless.

Soil preparation

About 2 weeks before the intended planting, the soil is dug up to the depth of the shovel with the addition of humus or well-rotted manure. The norm is 10-20 kg per square meter. Also, for every 1 m2, it is recommended to add potassium chloride and superphosphate to the soil (15 g and 30 g respectively). At high acidity, 4-6 kg of calcareous fluff is added. Immediately before planting, the soil loosens again at a depth of about 15 cm.

Agricultural Engineering Planting

You should choose a cloudy day or a quiet, calm evening. Furrows are made for each row, which are well moistened. It is convenient to make them with a hoe and a stretched cord. The scheme for planting Victoria is as follows: 15-20cm between seedlings at 60-80cm between rows. This density provides better wintering, good fruiting and ease of handling and collection. In the rows, the bushes will quickly close, and the aisles will remain free. Care must be taken that the center of the outlet is not sprinkled with earth. The soil around the seedlings is well crimped for reliable rooting and mulched with humus or peat.

How to get your own seedlings

After fruiting, strong and healthy sockets with tendrils of the second year of life are selected from those that gave this time a not very abundant crop. Plastic cups with a substrate are buried in the ground, into which the first two antennae are dug. Those that will grow further need to be removed. By August or September, when the time comes for planting, the seedlings will be ready, with strong roots.

You should not choose berry bushes that have given a plentiful harvest this year, since they are less promising in terms of seedlings. One growing season can provide one thing: either a good harvest, or full-fledged seedlings.

Landing of Victoria on agrofibre

The use of black covering material not only helps to significantly reduce the cost of efforts to care for Victoria, but also helps to increase the yield of berries by about a third. This is a big topic with its own nuances, so we only note the essence and the most important points of this agricultural technique. Increased productivity is promoted by increased protection against weeds and negative natural phenomena. Agrofibre replaces mulching, it is resistant to ultraviolet light, which inhibits photosynthesis and weed growth, but at the same time has good air and water permeability.

If you plan to use covering material, you need to correctly calculate the width of the beds so that the joints do not fall in their middle. The calculation depends on the width of the agrofiber, taking into account an overlap of 20-30 cm. Next, you should adhere to the following agricultural technology.

1. A deep and thorough digging of the soil is carried out - the next time it will be possible to do this only after a few years.
2. Organic fertilizers and mineral dressings are applied in advance, for 2-4 weeks. Shortening this period is not recommended.
3. A wire is prepared, which is divided into pieces no shorter than 50 cm, which then need to be bent in half to make studs for fastening.
4. The agrofibre is spread over the selected overlap area, fixed with wire pins along the joints. Edges and corners require more reliable fixation, for which paving slabs, boards, metal bars, etc. are used.
5. Designated, and optionally decorated with tiles or boards, paths, which subsequently can be walked. They are made in such a way that they can be reached with hands to each bush.
6. Chalk marks are placed on the fiber in the places of future seedlings, after which a cross-shaped incision is made in these places (not a round hole!).
7. In the resulting slots, holes are made into which the seedlings are planted. The big mistake is to cover the plot with agrofiber after planting seedlings.
8. Each bush is sprinkled with earth at the base.

Important! Victoria does not like a deep landing.

Care for Victoria Planted in Autumn

Further care is carried out with the main and only goal - to ensure the growth of a powerful root system that will help survive the winter and provide the harvest next summer. Further recommendations are given for an open planting method (not for covering material).

Watering

The first week the newly planted bushes require frequent watering, literally every other day, a maximum of two. As soon as the appearance of the aerial part indicates that the roots have become stronger, watering should be halved, but make sure that the earth constantly remains wet and loose. Water should not be cold.

Watering is carried out under the root, it is undesirable for water to fall on the leaves.

Top dressing

Young seedlings do not need top dressing, and will not need it for another 2, or even 3 years. Fertilizers introduced during digging during this period will be quite enough.

Disease and Pest Treatment

Many pathogens and harmful insects settle for wintering in the upper layers of garden soil. To reduce the risk of infection, it is recommended to process the newly planted beds. This is not done immediately, but when the seedlings take root well. The soil is loosened to a depth of 7-8 cm and is treated with a solution of Karbofos heated to + 30 ° C (3 tsp per bucket) or Bordeaux liquid. You can also use a solution of copper oxychloride (1 S. l. Per bucket).

Then everything is covered with a film on top for 3 hours. The procedure is done in extremely quiet, calm weather, the film is not pressed strongly to the ground.

Pruning

Trim leaves just planted in August or September Victoria is useless. Moreover, the thicker the outlet grows by winter, the better. But, if she tries to release a mustache, they can and should be removed immediately, since they take away from the plant the forces needed to build up the root system.

Mulching

It is advisable to mulch the soil immediately, using peat, humus or sawdust for this. But on the eve of winter, the process will need to be repeated.

Preparing for the winter

On the whole, Victoria planted in autumn hibernates well, especially if the soil layer under it is mulled. It is only necessary to take measures in case of frosty snowless winters, as well as with the aim of delaying snow if it is not enough. To do this, straw or fallen foliage is poured on the bed. You can also use spruce branches, sawdust, stalks of corn or sunflower, etc. Layer thickness - about 5cm.

When using foliage or other garden plant debris, care should be taken not to bring pests or pathogens with them.

Garden strawberries are considered one of the most unpretentious plants, many of its varieties are frost-resistant and not susceptible to disease. However, it gives juicy large fruits only in the first five years of growth, after which it is necessary to transplant strawberries.

The exact sign, which indicates the need for seating, is the presence of a large number of outlets around the main (uterine) bush. They take the majority of nutrients, reducing the amount of fruiting. But these same outlets can take seats in a new place and become full-fledged fruiting bushes.

Plants are transferred to a new garden almost any month - from June to October. But in spring or autumn, that is, before the appearance of the fruit, doing this is optimal.

The main goals of a regular transplant

Strawberry yield decreases after 3 years of growth in one place, and after 5-6 years, the loss of nutrients due to a large number of rosettes increases significantly and the plant practically ceases to bear fruit. This is due to the fact that strawberries, for a long time located on one piece of soil, draws the necessary trace elements and other nutrients from the soil. Depletion of the soil leads to the fact that the fruits become small, juicy, the number of new shoots decreases, the leaves may begin to turn yellow.

Experienced gardeners recommend moving the bushes to a new place every 3-4 years, based on the volume of the crop and the appearance of the plant. If the berries become smaller, their number in comparison with past seasons is reduced, the strawberries look sick, old, the leaves turn yellow, the transplant is unambiguous.

Every year, buds appear on the stems, releasing antennae. Branches serve for reproduction. Each new season, these stems "rise" up, draining the plant. During wintering, such a bush is more susceptible to freezing.

When is it better to transplant strawberries

Strawberry bushes are transplanted in almost any season from the beginning of summer to the end of the fruiting season, which, depending on the variety, occurs in September-October, as well as in spring. Avoid transferring to a new location during the flowering period, as this may reduce yield.

Transplanting strawberries in autumn is easiest - the bush has given all possible crops, gradually enters a dormant state, preparing for wintering. However, it is impossible to say for sure whether the plant will take root. If strawberries are transferred to a new garden in the spring, it soon becomes clear which bushes have taken root, and an approximate amount of the future crop is determined. It is necessary to focus on winter hardiness, root strength and growth rate.

In the spring

Strawberry transplantation in the spring is best done in late March and April, in the middle lane - until the end of May, in the northern regions - the last decade of May and until the first half of June. General rules for all climatic zones - when transplanting, the soil should thaw completely, and the air temperature should be above +10 ° C for several days. Small frosts of the plant are well tolerated, so the weather forecast will need to be studied.

Spring transplantation is possible only by propagation of the bush. The branch of shoots makes it possible this year to get the first, albeit small, crop.

A method of growing seedlings from seeds is also used, but this option is more time-consuming: seeds do not always shoot, and planted seedlings often do not take root, since they are very demanding on climatic conditions.

In summer

In the summer, it is best to transfer bushes to a new garden in late July or early August. This is the optimal period for the middle strip and northern latitudes. By this time, a large number of new seedlings appear on the bushes with berries, they are strong enough to grow into a full-fledged bush.

The absence of frost for at least 2-3 months after transplantation, cool, humid weather during the fall season will allow strawberries to quickly grow next year, root well and grow until the first cold snap. This makes it possible to get a plentiful harvest at the beginning of next season. In summer and early autumn, it is convenient to propagate plants by dividing, which is important for varieties that do not produce antennae.

When planting begins in the summer months, you need to carefully monitor the weather. If there is a high air temperature, there is no rain, planted bushes may not take root.

Breeding varieties carry transfer to a new place worse; they may not adapt before the onset of cold weather. For them, spring planting is preferred.

Fall

If you transplant strawberries correctly in the fall, it will yield a plentiful harvest next year. These terms are optimal for the southern latitudes, where the temperature is kept until November. In addition, it is in the autumn that the soil becomes moist, the air temperature decreases, but there are still enough sunny days for a good growth of outlets.

The strawberry bed replanted in the fall will survive frosts well. It is necessary to transfer the bushes 3 weeks before the onset of cold weather, so that the shoots can take root and get stronger.

Dates of transplant repair varieties

This strawberry, which gives two crops in one season, is better to transfer to a new growth site in May or late July, when frost is not expected. This variety can be propagated with a mustache, division or seedlings grown from seeds. The easiest way is reproduction by young shoots, but this method does not allow you to get a crop in the first year.

There are also several types of repair strawberries, some give new shoots, and others do not. Bezousy varieties have several advantages - they are more resistant to diseases, unpretentious to the place of seedlings and weather conditions, ripen even on darkened beds, do not require transplanting up to 5-6 years without reducing the number of crops.

How to transplant strawberries

The simplest methods for strawberry seedlings, suitable even for beginner summer residents, are dividing the bush and propagating by young shoots (mustaches). Growing seedlings of this plant from seeds is more laborious, requires certain skills and suitable temperature conditions, but it makes it possible to try the first crop in the planting season.

Dividing the bush

Most often, by dividing the bush, plants that do not have antennae are propagated. But this method is suitable for almost any variety. This option has several advantages:

• rooting of seedlings is up to 90%;
• transplantation can be performed after harvest, that is, in the fall;
• it is possible to renew the beds all season from April to October;
• yields are increased by choosing healthy, strong outlets that have already bore fruit this season.

To begin with, select the strongest healthy uterine bushes. Then dig out the outlet, remove the dry leaves, clean the ground from the roots. Put the plants in water and divide the bush into separate horns. Cut off the dried roots, remove the peduncles.

In regions with a humid climate, it makes sense to cut off half the leaf from each plant, which will reduce moisture evaporation after planting.

After that, the bushes go for growing in pots. Fill a container of 8-10 cm in diameter with soil and peat in a ratio of 1: 1, place a bush in the center, sprinkle with soil, water and after 1, 5 months, plant in a greenhouse. After 3-6 weeks, depending on the appearance of the plant, transplant strawberries on a permanent bed. For each square meter, 5 kg of humus is added, acidic soil should be balanced with dolomite flour (0.5 kg per square meter).

Rooted mustache

Of young tendrils, a transplant is carried out when the soil is sufficiently moist, the temperature does not rise more than +25 degrees. This method can be used in spring and summer, as well as in early autumn.

The largest number of mustaches appears from mid-July to September. They are already resistant to frost, seedlings quickly take root in the ground and can survive even cold snowy winters.

Mustache can be planted in separate containers and open ground. Shoots are introduced into the soil after preliminary loosening. In pots or jars, land is used with the addition of fertilizers. Outlets are cut from the bush 2 weeks before transplanting.

For strawberries, they choose sufficiently lighted, windless beds. The plant develops most rapidly after legumes and nightshade crops; they are considered the best predecessors.

Preparatory work

The quality of preparation of strawberries for replanting to a new place depends on what crop the gardener will be able to get next year and whether new seedlings will even take root.

Choosing a place and preparing beds

Optimal for strawberries will be a plot of land with a slight slope. The main thing is that the bed should be protected from the cold wind, the illumination is oriented east or west. The shady area, places with high soil moisture are not suitable for this plant. Also, bushes are not planted on hills, where there is high dryness of the soil and rapid evaporation of water.

Unsuitable soils are peat, clay, podzolic and acid. It is necessary to engage in soil preparation two weeks before the start of transplantation, and if it is carried out in the spring, then the bed should be formed before the onset of cold weather in the previous fall.

After digging, fertilizing with compost, manure, superphosphate, potassium sulfate is carried out, abundant watering is carried out. The ridge should not exceed 50 cm in width, the distance between the landing holes is at least 30 cm.

Selection and processing of planting material

The transplant is performed on a sunny sunny day. An hour before planting in the soil, the garden is watered. It is better to use a humus solution at room temperature. For two hours, the roots are soaked in various infusions:

• ready-made growth stimulator;
• legume, nettle and double superphosphate herbal sourdough;
• garlic solution.

For transplantation, you can take bushes on which there are at least three healthy and strong leaves, the root system is not dried, its length does not exceed 12 cm. There should not be rot on the roots. If they are longer than normal, trim with scissors.

When transplanting with a tendril, they choose strong, developed sockets, in the spring the ovaries are completely cut off. For 2 weeks, it is necessary to separate the shoot with the scissors, which connects the uterine bush and the rooted outlet.

Landing Technology

Transplanting strawberries in summer and autumn is necessary according to a certain scheme:

1. Bushes are planted in a prepared bed at a minimum distance of 30 cm from each other. When landing closer, they will not have enough space for rooting, there may be a lack of nutrients for proper nutrition.
2. If you are transplanting with sockets, do not scoop them up in advance so that the root system does not begin to dry out. Immediately transfer the antennae to the prepared well.
3. Pour water into a small hole, place a bush, sprinkle with soil, gently squeeze with your hands and immediately pour plenty of water.
4. In hot weather, a dug socket or part of a bush, if you use the division method, must be placed in a solution that consists of manure, clay and plain water. Top dressing will help the root system recover.

With a spring transplant, the depth and landing pattern is different:

1. The air temperature during the work should be at least 6 degrees heat.
2. Dig a bed, free it from debris and roots of previous crops, feed and moisten.
3. For uniform illumination of future plants, choose a plot directed to the east-west. Groundwater should be located below one and a half meters.
4. Make beds small, with a maximum of 50 cm wide and 20 cm high.
5. Moisten the soil the day before planting, and before starting work, pour sand about 10 cm high into each hole, fill it with warm water.
6. Place a dug socket, sprinkle with soil, after straightening the roots, pour at least 3 liters of room temperature water into each well.
7. Around the bush, make top dressing based on peat or humus.

If the weather is hot at the time of the work, darken the area for several days before the rooting of the bush.

When using any method of transplantation, it is necessary to take into account the climatic conditions in your area - how often precipitation falls, how long the warm season lasts, when on average the first frosts begin. Planted rosettes or parts of the bush, as well as seedlings obtained from seeds, should grow stronger and take root in order to bear fruit abundantly.