It often happens that when planting young gooseberry bushes, gardeners do not take into account the size of a thin twig. As a result, after a few years, the stands are interwoven into impenetrable thickets. It is becoming clear that there is a transplant ahead. We will tell in the article how the gooseberry transplant takes place in spring, what rules need to be followed by gardeners.

When is it better to transplant gooseberries

For gooseberries, the best season is autumn. The shrub prepares for winter, all processes in the plant's body slow down, so the stress from moving around is less painful. Unfortunately, not everything depends on the gardener. Sometimes nature radically violates seasonal plans. For example, in the fall, the event was unsuccessful due to early frosts.

Will - perforce transplant is transferred to the spring. For gooseberries, this is not the best time; he is one of the first to blossom in the garden. When the buds have already burst to disturb the shrub late, the root system starts growing and becomes extremely vulnerable. So you have to watch, so as not to miss the right moment. If there is no other way, then gooseberries must be saved in a "sleepy" state, until sap flow begins.

It is important to do everything extremely correctly in order to minimize damage to the shrub, especially the roots.

Transplantation methods gooseberry bushes

In gardening, plants are planted and propagated in two ways:

1. with a lump;
2. in the form of seedlings.

A sapling is a woody plant with an open root system, that is, one that has been dug up and shaken off from the roots. Such bushes cannot be stored for a long time and it is difficult to take root, since they disturbed them seriously. For gooseberries, a transplant in this form is possible exclusively in the fall, in the spring it simply does not have time to adapt. If you still have to do this in the spring, then it is better to choose a landing with a lump of soil.

Transplant sequence

1. Before proceeding to dig a bush, evaluate its appearance and condition. A thickened plant must be destroyed by removing dry, old and broken branches. Young shoots that remain are pruned by one third. This is necessary in order to balance the crown with the root system. Yes, and to deal with such a bush will be easier.

   Before transplantation, old shoots are removed from the gooseberry, the remaining ones are shortened.

2. It is important to form an earthen ball correctly. It will keep the roots from damage. Thus, the plant will receive minimal stress during transplantation. To do this, at a distance of 30 cm from the base of the bush, dig in the soil in the form of a ring.
3. Clay and loamy soil holds its shape well and allows you to take out a bush with a lump and move it to a new place. But if the soil is loose, the sidewalls are wrapped in dense fabric and tightly bandaged. Burlap, agrofibre, geotextiles, etc. are suitable for this purpose.
4. The bottom of the prepared coma, with a shovel, is separated from the ground, if necessary, lay a support and removed from the pit.
5. The resulting design is carefully transferred to a new place.
6. By this time, the landing pit is ready. Its size is 2 times larger than the diameter of the coma in width and depth.
7. At the bottom of the pit, nutrient soil is poured and watered for compaction.
8. After the water is completely absorbed, it will be seen whether it is necessary to add more. It is important to achieve such a level that when landing an earthen lump is 5 cm below the edge of the pit. This position is best for rooting gooseberries.

Soil and fertilizer requirements

When the bush is installed, it must be sprinkled with a herbal mixture. The composition of the plant mixture is indicated in the table:

Tip#1. If the soil for planting is heavy, coarse river sand is added to it. Loose soil is well compacted and does not need a baking powder.

Soil acidity is important for berry shrubs. If the pH is less than 6, the crop will be modest, the berries are small and sour. When landing, this indicator is optimized to a neutral reaction. For roots to take root, they need support. Phosphorus - potassium fertilizers will come to the rescue, which contribute to the growth of new hairy roots.

Gooseberry transplant is a noticeable trauma for the plant. He was forcibly dragged from his familiar environment and forced to master an unfamiliar place.

You can use other rooting agents - “Heteroauxin”, “Kornevin”, “Rizopon”, “Agrekol”. These drugs stimulate the internal strength of the plant for survival. The space between the lump and the wall of the pit is trampled. The toe is turned to the bush.

After soil compaction, a near-trunk circle is formed. Its diameter is wider than the crown of a bush. The height of the bulk roller is 10-15 cm. The final touch is watering. Water temperature - +15 0. One watering will require 30 liters (or 3 ten-liter buckets). You may need several approaches, but the landing needs to be shed carefully.

Gooseberry transplant in spring

It makes no sense to name specific dates of transplantation. It's a shame to be late, but it is impossible to start work too early. Knowing all the intricacies of earthworks, it becomes clear that the beginning of the event is impossible until the soil in the garden dries enough to become suitable for digging. It depends on weather conditions, after heavy snow or spring rains, the deadlines are postponed. If during this time the kidneys open on the gooseberry, it is better to refuse the transplant.

Sometimes a stalemate forces the gardener to give up the rules and move the shrub at the wrong time for him. In this case, the success of the transplant depends not only on the rigorous implementation of all stages, but also on further care for the “traveler”.

Watering a replanted bush

Care after transplantation. Mulching

A transplant for gooseberries is like a surgical operation for a person. Of course, the lion's share of the result belongs to the correct transfer of the bush, but the rehabilitation period is also important. To maximize the results of hard work, immediately after watering, the trunk circle is mulched. Covering material are:

• dry crumb of ground peat;
• crushed rotted manure;
• sawdust (preferably hardwood, conifers acidify the soil);
• bark;
• wood chips.

Mulch protects shrubs from evaporation of moisture and weeds. A layer of 10 - 15 cm passes water well, but reduces the penetration of light. Thanks to this, weeds almost do not grow. This is important, because some, for example, creeping wheatgrass, rot, dandelions make a serious competition to the weakened shrub.

If some of them still managed to break through the mulch, they need to be removed with the root. The transplant rarely goes perfectly, often some branches break, it has not come off, but it does not take root. They need to be cut so that nutrients are not taken away from whole shoots.

Mulching a bush in late spring

Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers

Gooseberries take root in about 21 to 30 days. You can be sure of this when the first leaves appear from the buds. If they continue to turn green, then the transplant was successful and after another two weeks you can spend the first top dressing. Now, we need nitrogen fertilizers that help the growth of stems and leaves.

Tip # 2.Do not rush to apply nitrogen fertilizer immediately after transplantation. It is used when the plant is rooted. It makes no sense to stimulate the growth of green mass until the gooseberry has taken root.

In spring, the “program” of the plant is aimed at the formation of young shoots and leaves. During this period, enhanced nutrition is needed for all plants, especially transplanted ones. Most nitrogen is required. It drives the growth of young cells. Nitric salts dissolve well and are quickly washed out of the soil, which is also why they are used more than other fertilizers.

Organic fertilizer dressing

Of organic fertilizers, nitrogen is rich in fresh bird droppings, but you can’t use it in its pure form, the plant will get burned or die at all. People say: “It will burn”! To prevent this, the litter should be dissolved in water and kept for a week. Infusion is used for watering 1 ten-liter bucket in one hole. Before applying fertilizer, the mulch must be removed.

It is better to feed transplanted gooseberries with liquid means, regardless of whether they are mineral or organic. Before applying dressing, the bush is watered. Fertilizer is evenly applied along the perimeter of the trunk circle, it is here that the young regrowth roots are located.

Complex specialized mineral fertilizer "Berry bushes"

Effective microorganisms are a good ally of organic fertilizers, with their participation soil enrichment processes occur much faster. Example, the formation of humus from plant debris occurs in nature for 2 to 3 years. In the presence of "Emochki", the process takes 2 to 3 months.

The peculiarity of soil microflora is such that it activates at a positive temperature of at least + 12 0, so you should not use them immediately after transplantation, if it took place in early April. Microflora is never introduced if a mineral fertilizer was used. Chemicals kill living cultures and mineralize the soil. You have to choose between synthesized fertilizers and organic substances.

Summer care for shrubs in the garden

The main task in the summer is watering. If there is no rain, then the transplanted gooseberries are watered twice a week until the end of June. In mid-summer, the interval can be increased to two weeks. In hot weather, you need to irrigate not only the soil, but also the crown of the bush. This procedure is called sprinkling. The plant "breathes" the entire surface of the leaves and stems.

Due to drought, the tissues narrow and the air penetrates poorly into the cells. Water cools the crown, and relaxes the cell membrane. You can water or sprinkle gooseberries only in the morning or in the evening. In the scorching sun, water droplets even in flight turn into “boiling water” and burn the leaves.

The end of June is the time for summer dressing. Often it is missed, giving preference to spring and autumn. This is correct if the plant feels good. Transplanted gooseberries can be supported by a complex mineral fertilizer for berry shrubs, in which potassium predominates. With its help, leaves better cope with drought. Potassium salts protect the cell membrane while maintaining a supply of water. So the plant evaporates less moisture.

Fertilizer can be applied only in the morning or in the evening after watering.

Preparing for fall and winter

The final water-charging irrigation is carried out when the average daily temperature is +8 0. One bush will need 50 liters of water. At first glance, too much, but it is worth remembering that the next irrigation will be melted snow. And nobody canceled the water cycle in nature in winter. Dry soil freezes quickly, which means that the plant can suffer.

It is important to prepare the root system for winter. Phosphate fertilizers will help strengthen it. The phosphorus fertilizer application rates are shown in the table:

After watering and fertilizing, the trunk circle is protected with covering material:

• dry lawn grass;
• mowed hay, preferably without seeds;
• sawdust;
• leaves of healthy plants.

The gooseberry crown hibernates well and does not require shelter. If you follow simple recommendations, the transplanted gooseberry will successfully survive the cold and will delight you with healthy berries in the spring.

Ripe Gooseberries

Serious mistakes in transplanting gooseberries in spring

Error number 1.  Sometimes adult gooseberries are transplanted like a seedling.

Shrubs with open roots take root much worse. Earthen com significantly increases the chances of survival.

Mistake # 2.  Gardeners often neglect rooting.

Specialists have developed these drugs to help the plant when planting and transplanting. Even in a perfect coma, the roots are damaged in order for the young to grow, they need the support that the roots provide.

Mistake # 3.  One of the reasons for the death of gooseberries can be cold water.

Often you can hear bewilderment about the poor health of the transplanted gooseberry. They did everything right, carefully looked after, watered generously, and the bush disappeared. Probably the reason lies in the temperature of the water. For watering gooseberries you need + 18 0 - + 25 0. If the source is a deep artesian well, the water from it for the bush is “ice”. Moreover, when the soil is heated in a day like a frying pan. Such temperature drops are fatal for gooseberries, and for other plants.

Gooseberry bushes are intertwined with each other over the years, in order to put this shrub in order, it must be transplanted. Such events are also carried out in cases where there are problems with productivity, when the place turned out to be inappropriate, and the plant becomes weaker every year. Sometimes the need for a transplant is caused by the desire to make room for other purposes.

When to plant and how to choose a place to plant?

When can I transplant gooseberries? The most suitable time for these works is autumn. The positive points in favor of choosing this time of year are as follows:

Gooseberries are best suited for places well lit by the sun and not blown by the wind.

Raw and clay soil is not suitable for it; such a soil will contribute to the development of fungal diseases. It is not worth waiting for a good harvest from a bush planted in such a place.

When choosing a place for gooseberries, you should pay attention to the following features:

If you are planning to plant bushes near the fence or next to young trees, you need to consider their future growth.

Methods and rules of transplantation, preparation of seedlings

Spring transplant should be carried out in exceptional cases. For example, if a gooseberry transplanted in the fall fell under frost because of the early arrival of winter.

The complexity of transplanting shrubs in the spring is that due to the early appearance of buds, you have to constantly be near it. If you miss this moment, then the gooseberry transplant will be delayed until next season.

Due to damage to the roots, and this can not be avoided during transplantation, a blossoming bush in a new place may not take root.

In gardening, there are two ways to plant and propagate plants: together with an earthen lump and in the form of seedlings. Sapling is a woody plant whose roots are peeled from the ground. They are not subject to long storage, and they take root more difficult, since their root system has been severely damaged.

Both options are suitable for autumn shrub transplantation, but for spring planting with seedlings is not an option. Their root system does not have time to take root before the movement of juice begins.

Young seedlings, which are only 1 or 2 years old, are most suitable for breeding gooseberries, they take root much better than older seedlings. The main roots covered with a yellowish bark should be at least three, and in length they should reach about 15 cm.

The fibrous roots should also be developed, the upper part should consist of two stalks reaching a height of 0.4 m. There should be no leaves on the prepared seedling. If there are unhealthy roots, they must be removed. After the preparatory measures, it remains to carry out stimulation of the root system.

To do this, seedlings (15-20 pieces) must be placed in the mashroom prepared according to the following recipe:

1. Chernozem - 1 kg.
2. Clay - 1 kg.
3. Kornevin - 1 or 2 sachets.
4. Aktara - 6 g.

Combine all components and add 3 l of water.

Compliance with the rules of transplantation will contribute to better rooting of bushes, namely:

At the new location, the landing depth should be 5 cm more compared to the previous location. While the temperature is outside, the gooseberries need to be watered all the time.

When watering, mulch needs to be removed, after the event, it needs to be returned to its place. In winter, the landing site must be insulated with sawdust, this will be enough.

Gooseberry propagation and care

In order to propagate plant bushes, the most common method can be applied: the horizontal layering method. In early spring, without waiting for the buds to open, the parietal area must be shaped like a saucer.

Healthy young branches should be bent to this site and fastened to the ground with wooden hooks. From the side buds located on these branches, new shoots will grow. They, having reached 10 - 15 cm, should be sprinkled with earth. With the advent of autumn, they should be dug up and those that have developed well can be planted in a permanent place.

Another method of propagation of the bush is carried out using cuttings. In mid-September, you need to cut off a certain amount of lignified shoots. The upper soft part needs to be cut, then you need to make two slices: one - above the kidney, and the second - below 25-35 cm from it.

Then, in the prepared strip, deepened by 20 cm, you need to install these shoots with an interval of 15 cm, two buds should remain above the ground. After the trench should be covered with earth and compacted. After a year, they need to be planted in a new place.

Gooseberries, as well as other berry bushes, must be taken care of, otherwise the bush will cease to bring crops. In autumn, measures should be taken to protect the plant from diseases and pests.

The harvest next year depends on how gooseberries are processed. To protect the bushes from fungal diseases, you need to use a product prepared by diluting 50 g of Chloroxy copper in 10 l of water, or Bordeaux liquid. A composition prepared from 20 g of Karbofos and 10 l of water will help protect against aphids, sawflies and fires.

Before spraying, you need to shrub and clean the area around it. Processing sites near the trunks should begin with the removal of weeds. It is advisable to remove them along with the root, otherwise their presence will be constant. Next, you need to loosen the earth and mulch.

Simultaneously with the treatment of periostemal circles, it is necessary to feed the plant, for this you will need Potassium and Phosphorus, it is enough to take 20 g and 30 g to the bush, respectively. It will not be amiss to make a nutritious mound, not more than 10 cm, under a plant of humus or peat mated to wood ash. It is advisable to feed the bush before the onset of cold weather.

If it’s rainy autumn, you don’t need to water the gooseberries, if there is no rain, you need to water the gooseberries. At the same time, the norm for one bush is 30 liters.

In order for the shrub to bring a good harvest, it is necessary to trim the branches of gooseberries. In the first and second year after the planted plant, it is necessary to cut off shoots that are damaged and located close to the ground.

There are such varieties of gooseberries, in which many shoots appear near the roots. These bushes for 3 to 4 years need to be thinned out, it is enough to leave 2 or 3 healthy, young shoots. When the bush is 5 or 6 years old, the number of branches should be 15 - 18 pieces. Further, every year 1–2 old and weak branches are subject to circumcision. Circumcision of the plant can be performed in autumn when the leaves are discarded. For work, use a sharp secateurs, then the slices will be smooth and even.

In addition to care, which is carried out in the autumn, it is important to pay attention to other activities.

During winter, the earth becomes dense, so with the advent of spring it will be necessary to loosen it. Since gooseberries love loose soil, for the whole season it is advisable to loosen the soil 4-5 times. Throughout the season, after it has been watered or rained, it is necessary to mulch the soil in order to maintain moisture and prevent the appearance of weeds.

It is useful to know about how to transplant gooseberries in the fall not only to those who need to renew the site, but also to those who are interested in how to plant the gooseberries and when to transplant gooseberries to increase the area planted with this plant.  When replanting and planting bushes of a given crop for the first time in autumn, one should not worry that they will not take root well.

The trends of modern fashion make us think about how to change our site and create stylish landscape compositions on it. Most design ideas require free space so that trees and shrubs do not interfere with the author's idea. For the sake of beauty, you have to make sacrifices and transplant plants that are not in place.

It is possible to move even a large fruiting bush, if you approach this task correctly. Moreover, sometimes a transplant is beneficial for the plant, as it leads to its rejuvenation.

Let's try to transplant a gooseberry bush. To do this, we first carry out a strong crop.

Like currants, gooseberry bush consists of branches of various ages. According to the structure of the bush, gooseberries can be divided into two types. Some varieties have a bush-like shape with strongly curved, arched branches, others have a more compressed form, in which in the center of the bush perennial branches occupy a vertical and inclined position, and the lateral branches are slightly curved. In the varieties of the first type, the pods live in the bush for 3-4 years, and bear fruit for 2-3 years, in the second, respectively, 5-6 and 3-4 years. In the second type, the pods are less thickened and better lit than in the varieties of the first type.

When pruning, all branches that are older than the specified age must be ruthlessly removed. It is not difficult to distinguish them from young shoots: in old, the bark is darker and rougher.

We cut out all low-lying branches, as well as thin and diseased. We make a cut at the level of the soil, without leaving stumps. If it is difficult, we cut branches in two steps.

We consider how many shoots we have left: if more than ten, then we need to reduce them to six to seven. These young shoots are greatly shortened - 40-50 cm long is enough. Sometimes it is recommended to cut branches even lower, but practice shows that even with such a length gooseberries take root well.

Now we begin to dig out a bush. We dig it from all sides as deep as possible. The distance from the center of the bush is at least 40 cm. We take the bush out of the ground and put it on film or fabric. We dig a hole in a new place. In size, it should be larger than an earthen coma, both in depth and in diameter. It is desirable that at least 10 cm gaps remain on the circumference. At the bottom of the pit, we fall asleep a fertile mixture consisting of humus and garden earth. Fertilizers should not be added so as not to burn the roots.

On the fabric we transfer the bush to the place of planting. We put it in a hole and fill in the gaps along its perimeter with the same fertile mixture. Tamp the soil lightly and water abundantly (2-4 buckets of water, depending on the size of the bush). We fall asleep on top with dry earth. The base of the bush should be deepened by 5-7 cm. Until the onset of cold weather, we continue to water the bush.

Gooseberries are planted in the fall, as even a slight delay in replanting in the spring will negatively affect its development. Gooseberries begin to grow very early, so it is important that the roots receive all the moisture from the melting snow.

In the spring, do not forget about the transplanted bush. Even if the soil is wet, water it, as damaged roots still do not produce water well. The first dressing can be given when the leaves grow a little.

The branches that were left from the gooseberry trimmings are very useful for protecting plants from rodents. Put them in the trenches when planting tulips and use them to tie fruit trees.

Construction, redevelopment of the site, very overgrown trees - this is an incomplete list of situations when a gooseberry transplant is required. Or maybe the place was originally chosen incorrectly, and only a few years later the owners realized this, found another, more suitable one. Be that as it may, the need to transplant bushes from place to place raises concerns and a number of questions. Is it possible to transplant an adult bush? When and how is it best to do? You will find the answers in our article.

Gooseberries can be transplanted in spring or autumn. Most gardeners prefer to do this precisely in the fall, when the plant has almost completed its annual vegetation cycle, begins to prepare for winter, that is, for the rest period. In August and September, the beds are usually prepared for the next season, from this point of view it is also better to make room for spring planting in advance.

In the spring it is more difficult to determine the time for a transplant, more precisely, it is difficult to correctly guess it. Gooseberries very early and quickly begin to grow, the very first warm days contribute to the rapid movement of juices, swelling of the buds - the plant rushes to flowering rapidly. The end of May is usually marked by the presence of small fruits. So, you need to plant a bush before the sap flow begins, immediately after thawing the earth.

In autumn, you can decide on time much easier, knowing approximately when frost sets in annually. In late September or early October, after the bush drops its leaves, when all life processes slow down, it will more easily tolerate stress and the inevitable root injury caused by transplantation. Moreover, before the cold, he will have time to take root in a new place.

A prickly bush will take root on non-acidic, fairly light and nutritious soil. Loam is best for him. If the soil selected for it is too light - clay can be added, if it is too heavy and dense - sand and peat can be added. The site should be dug up, cleaned of all plant debris, old roots, debris. If necessary, deoxidation of the soil, you need to add lime.

It is advisable to check the acidity of the soil before planting plants for which it is important. This can be done on your own, having previously prepared “reagents”.

To determine the pH of the soil, you need to take a handful of leaves of currant or cherry, put in a half-liter jar, pour boiling water, close with a tight lid. After the water has cooled, a lump of earth is placed in it and the color change is monitored. Preservation of green color indicates a normal level of acidity, if a red tint appears - too acidic, if blue - not acidic enough.

Transplant Methods

When the place is defined and prepared (and on it you need to dig a hole with a depth of at least 50 cm and a diameter of up to 80 cm), it is time to proceed to digging and preparing the bush. Gooseberries are severely cut off - all old branches need to be removed, and new shoots, which will be no more than 7, be shortened by a third. Then, a circle with a diameter of 30-40 centimeters is dug around him. Usually the roots occupy the area indicated by its crown. A bush well dug to a depth of half a meter is removed with a shovel, pitchfork, crowbar or other tools, together with an earthen lump, stretching at the same time as the base, and transferred to a film or fabric. On this film, he is transported to a new place of residence. The roots are not specially released from the ground (unless they are diseased and not rotten), but they examine the visible parts, cut off a little, wounds sprinkled with wood ash.

A pair of buckets of water is poured into the prepared pit (it should be wider than the roots), the excavated soil mixed with compost or rotted manure is poured onto the bottom of the pit, and a bush is placed on top, the roots are straightened, and they are sprinkled with the rest of the earth. It is advisable to deepen the bush 5 centimeters more than it grew before. The earth is tamped, watered with a couple more buckets, it is advisable to make a hole or a groove with sides so that the water does not flow past, but gets exactly to the roots. After that, the area around the stems is covered with dry soil and mulched with peat or straw.

Some gardeners add fertilizers when transplanting, but this is quite dangerous for disturbed and trimmed roots. Most experts are inclined to believe that except for compost, wood ash can be added, and mineral fertilizers can be added in the spring.

If transplants require not one but several bushes, then more space is prepared. The entire large area reserved for gooseberry planting is dug up, cleaned, and the soil acidity or breathability corrected, if necessary. And then they prepare pits for each bush separately, between them it is desirable to leave a distance of more than a meter - usually 1.3 m or 1.5 m.

With a spring transplant, a hole is dug as soon as the ground melts. It immediately becomes clear whether the stagnation threatens the landings. If it turns out that there is such an opportunity, you need to dig a hole deeper and make a drainage layer of small gravel or pebbles, and then pour the earth and plant a plant.

Transplant Care

Gooseberry is an unpretentious and viable plant. A healthy bush tolerates the transplant well. Moreover, a correctly carried out transplant in a convenient and fertile place can rejuvenate it, increase productivity. Transplanting an adult plant in the fall, you can wait for the harvest next year. The exception is the healing plant transplant, which grew in an inappropriate place, was sick. In this case, the crop may be in a few years - from 2 to 4, depending on the degree of neglect and pruning of the plant.

After planting in the fall, the plant is watered regularly (pushing and returning the mulch after watering to its original place) until the frost. If necessary, top dressing, fertilizers are applied in the spring, when the bush has taken root and began to grow. Then urea, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are added. If there is no urgent need, do seasonal feeding, adding a little fermented slurry or bird droppings to the water.

After the spring transplant, they also monitor the moisture, only you need not to overdo it, pay attention to the amount of rainfall. Further care consists in weeding, feeding, pest control. Since the roots are shallow, it is better to remove weeds by hand, after watering, resume the layer of mulch.

Our country is huge, and what is normal for the Stavropol Territory or the Far East may not be suitable for the central regions of Russia.

Olga Burtseva from Kharkov in the comments asks if it is possible to transplant an adult gooseberry bush. Unfortunately, this problem is relevant for many gardeners, especially beginners, who seek to plant everything at once on their site.

Gooseberries are a forgotten medicine. It helps well with diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, perfectly improves immunity, improves blood composition, and most importantly - effectively prevents the development of atherosclerosis. And just a handful of fresh berries a day is enough! Many are convinced that blackcurrant is ahead of gooseberries in terms of the amount of nutrients, in fact, the opposite is true.

But they don’t have a very good idea of \u200b\u200bwhat the planting will look like in 5-6 years, when the plants enter the adult life cycle. However, the problem can be solved. Now there are technologies that allow replanting mature trees, not to mention shrubs. True, transplanting a tree is not easy, you need a special technique. But the bush is quite capable of moving to another place by the summer residents themselves. A few years ago, my husband and I did this procedure, the result is quite satisfied. However, everything is in order.

A place for a gooseberry bush under the fence

Our gooseberries grew along the fence from the netting on the north side of the site. Behind the fence there is a meadow and fields, m the garden was blown very hard. At the family council! it was decided to replace the net with a professional sheet to protect the plantings from piercing winds, and at the same time move the fence a little, so that later, removing the chain-link, not to spoil the new fence.

We set up the fence, then we removed the net, but it turned out that the bushes now grow at some distance from the fence. Moreover, it was not possible to use the liberated territory, but we did not want to plant weeds. The husband proposed layering to move the bushes closer to the fence, and those that are already bearing fruit, eventually cut down. Not a good idea: it would take a year to root layering, form a new bush and wait until it gains strength. It would have taken all five years, but I wanted to get the result earlier. Therefore, I insisted on moving to a new place existing and well-established plants. In total, seven bushes of different varieties grew along our fence. Immediately, it was scary to transfer everything (suddenly they didn’t take root?), And it was decided to divide this process into two stages.

No sooner said than done. The bushes were well spilled with water a day or two before transplantation to preserve as much land as possible on the roots. Then, just before the transplant, they tied it tight with twine. (It doesn’t matter if several branches break at the same time: all the same, part of the crown will have to be removed, because the stubby roots will not be able to feed all the branches.)

At a new place, they dug landing pits about 1 m in diameter and about 80 cm deep. The bushes were dug around the periphery of the crown to a depth of 80 cm and on both sides with shovels they began to raise the bush, going around it in a circular and cutting off the roots that went beyond the excavation.

Why dug so wide? The fact is that in plants the root system is, as a rule,

display of the aerial part. Therefore, the most active suction roots are located on the periphery of the crown. Chopping them off means leaving the plant dying of hunger. Of course, someone will object, they say, the suction roots are very thin, almost microscopic. Yes, but they are attached to something! And the more roots we leave, the faster the bush will recover. For a shrub, the loss of old anchor roots is not so destructive as the loss of a working root system.

As if nothing had happened

After we carefully lifted the transplanted bush with shovels, we must also carefully transfer it to film or burlap, preventing the soil from shedding. If the transplant is carried out within its area, a film will suffice. On the film, transfer the bush to the landing pit and carefully install it in a new place, without violating the location of the branches relative to the cardinal points.

Aligning the bush, we sprinkled it with humus (about one and a half buckets per bush), added earth, carefully tamped the surface around the bush with our feet and made a large hole, sprinkling the ground with a roller along the edges of the landing pit. Then they spilled plenty of water. They shed, not watered, so that the earth settles well. The transplant was carried out in early October (in our area this is the best time for planting gardens), but not in the spring.

I want to draw your attention: the gooseberry root is bare, the ground drops off it instantly, so it is extremely important to shed the transplanted plants well in a day or two.

If you will carry the bush over a long distance, it is more convenient to shift it to the burlap. Moreover, the bag should not be synthetic, but natural. It is necessary to cut it, shift the bush on it and tightly pull the roots with wire or twine. Such bushes need to be planted without removing burlap - it itself will rot in a year or two. And the roots will be safe and easily pass through the tissue.

In the spring, we cut the transplanted bushes more than usual, cut all the stems older than three years. Be sure to water the plants abundantly every next year about every 10-14 days.

In the first year, the bushes hurt, even the leaves did not completely turn around. But next year they gave us an abundance of berries, as if there was no transplant! They still live, gladdening with an excellent harvest.

Gooseberry Return

In my childhood my grandmother had 5 gooseberry bushes.

She cooked amazing "royal" jam! An hour before picking berries, my grandmother poured cold water over the bushes. The thorns became soft. The branches were fixed with clothespins - and so she harvested. When I inherited the garden, I uprooted these bushes - they were old and sick. And today I tried gooseberries and realized - I want to return it to the garden. Especially liked the varieties Neslukhovsky and Curshu Dzintars.

Senior researcher at the Berry Crop Division of the Institute for Fruit Growing RUE Tatyana Miroslavovna explained to me why not all gooseberries are found in every garden:

At the beginning of the last century, gooseberries were struck by a terrible epidemic field libraries. This disease is also called American powdery mildew, since it was brought to us with American varieties. In spring, the leaves and tops of the shoots, and then the berries begin to become covered with a white coating, which later hardens, turns brown and becomes like a dense felt. Plants of old varieties of European selection turned out to be unstable to this disease. Treatments with fungicides of that time did not help much, so people began to get rid of gooseberry bushes in their gardens.

Breeders are trying to revive the culture by crossing European sweet and large-fruited varieties with American ones that do not differ in special taste and size of berries, but are winter-hardy, drought-resistant, slightly prickly, and most importantly, resistant to powdery mildew. However, so far it has not been possible to create a variety that could boast both high resistance to the sphere library and the same large and sweet berries as the old varieties.

The best time to plant gooseberries is late September - early October. The place should be lit, without air stagnation. And from the very beginning it is important to monitor the purity of the trunk circle.

When planting the root neck, deepen by 5-6 cm.

After the seedling, be sure to cut it, leaving 3 buds from the ground on each shoot. Form a bush with 6-7 strong branches. Every spring, cut all weak shoots, leaving 3-4 of the strongest. By 6-7 years of age, the bush should have 15-18 branches of different ages. The main crop is focused on last year's growth. Branches with this type of fruiting quickly age. And on a thickened plant, fungal diseases are more likely to develop. Therefore, from 5-6 years of age, remove old branches, leaving the same number of newly developed root shoots to replace them.