It often happens that when planting young gooseberry bushes, gardeners do not take into account how thin a twig will grow. As a result, after a few years, the stands are interwoven into impenetrable thickets. It is becoming clear that there is a transplant ahead. We will tell in the article how the gooseberry transplant takes place in the spring, what rules need to be followed by gardeners.

When is it better to transplant gooseberries

For gooseberries, the best season is autumn. The shrub prepares for winter, all processes in the plant's body slow down, so the stress from moving around is less painful. Unfortunately, not everything depends on the gardener. Sometimes nature radically violates seasonal plans. For example, in the fall, the event was unsuccessful due to early frosts.

Will - perforce transplant is transferred to the spring. For gooseberries, this is not the best time; he is one of the first to blossom in the garden. When the buds have already burst to disturb the shrub late, the root system starts growing and becomes extremely vulnerable. So you have to watch, so as not to miss the right moment. If there is no other way, then gooseberries must be saved in a "sleepy" state, until sap flow begins.

It is important to do everything extremely correctly in order to minimize damage to the shrub, especially the roots.

Transplantation methods gooseberry bushes

In gardening, plants are planted and propagated in two ways:

1. with a lump;
2. in the form of seedlings.

A sapling is a woody plant with an open root system, that is, one that has been dug up and shaken off from the roots. Such bushes cannot be stored for a long time and it is difficult to take root, since they disturbed them seriously. For gooseberries, a transplant in this form is possible exclusively in the fall, in the spring it simply does not have time to adapt. If you still have to do this in the spring, then it is better to choose a landing with a lump of soil.

Transplant sequence

1. Before proceeding to dig a bush, evaluate its appearance and condition. A thickened plant must be destroyed by removing dry, old and broken branches. Young shoots that remain are pruned by one third. This is necessary in order to balance the crown with the root system. Yes, and to deal with such a bush will be easier.

   Before transplantation, old shoots are removed from the gooseberry, the remaining ones are shortened.

2. It is important to form an earthen ball correctly. It will keep the roots from damage. Thus, the plant will receive minimal stress during transplantation. To do this, at a distance of 30 cm from the base of the bush, dig in the soil in the form of a ring.
3. Clay and loamy soil holds its shape well and allows you to take out a bush with a lump and move it to a new place. But if the soil is loose, the sidewalls are wrapped in dense fabric and tightly bandaged. Burlap, agrofibre, geotextiles, etc. are suitable for this purpose.
4. The bottom of the prepared coma, with a shovel, is separated from the ground, if necessary, lay a support and removed from the pit.
5. The resulting design is carefully transferred to a new place.
6. By this time, the landing pit is ready. Its size is 2 times larger than the diameter of the coma in width and depth.
7. At the bottom of the pit, nutrient soil is poured and watered for compaction.
8. After the water is completely absorbed, it will be seen whether it is necessary to add more. It is important to achieve such a level that when landing an earthen lump is 5 cm below the edge of the pit. This position is best for rooting gooseberries.

Soil and fertilizer requirements

When the bush is installed, it must be sprinkled with a herbal mixture. The composition of the plant mixture is indicated in the table:

Tip#1. If the soil for planting is heavy, coarse river sand is added to it. Loose soil is well compacted and does not need a baking powder.

Soil acidity is important for berry shrubs. If the pH is less than 6, the crop will be modest, the berries are small and sour. When landing, this indicator is optimized to a neutral reaction. For roots to take root, they need support. Phosphorus - potassium fertilizers will come to the rescue, which contribute to the growth of new hairy roots.

Gooseberry transplant is a noticeable trauma for the plant. He was forcibly dragged from his familiar environment and forced to master an unfamiliar place.

You can use other rooting agents - “Heteroauxin”, “Kornevin”, “Rizopon”, “Agrekol”. These drugs stimulate the internal strength of the plant for survival. The space between the lump and the wall of the pit is trampled. The toe is turned to the bush.

After soil compaction, a near-trunk circle is formed. Its diameter is wider than the crown of a bush. The height of the bulk roller is 10-15 cm. The final touch is watering. Water temperature - +15 0. One watering will require 30 liters (or 3 ten-liter buckets). You may need several approaches, but the landing needs to be shed carefully.

Gooseberry transplant in spring

It makes no sense to name specific dates of transplantation. It's a shame to be late, but it is impossible to start work too early. Knowing all the intricacies of earthworks, it becomes clear that the beginning of the event is impossible until the soil in the garden dries enough to become suitable for digging. It depends on weather conditions, after heavy snow or spring rains, the deadlines are postponed. If during this time the kidneys open on the gooseberry, it is better to refuse the transplant.

Sometimes a stalemate forces the gardener to give up the rules and move the shrub at the wrong time for him. In this case, the success of the transplant depends not only on the rigorous implementation of all stages, but also on further care for the “traveler”.

Watering a replanted bush

Care after transplantation. Mulching

A transplant for gooseberries is like a surgical operation for a person. Of course, the lion's share of the result belongs to the correct transfer of the bush, but the rehabilitation period is also important. To maximize the results of hard work, immediately after watering, the trunk circle is mulched. Covering material are:

• dry crumb of ground peat;
• crushed rotted manure;
• sawdust (preferably hardwood, conifers acidify the soil);
• bark;
• wood chips.

Mulch protects shrubs from evaporation of moisture and weeds. A layer of 10 - 15 cm passes water well, but reduces the penetration of light. Thanks to this, weeds almost do not grow. This is important, because some, for example, creeping wheatgrass, rot, dandelions make a serious competition to the weakened shrub.

If some of them still managed to break through the mulch, they need to be removed with the root. The transplant rarely goes perfectly, often some branches break, it has not come off, but it does not take root. They need to be cut so that nutrients are not taken away from whole shoots.

Mulching a bush in late spring

Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers

Gooseberries take root in about 21 to 30 days. You can be sure of this when the first leaves appear from the buds. If they continue to turn green, then the transplant was successful and after another two weeks you can spend the first top dressing. Now, we need nitrogen fertilizers that help the growth of stems and leaves.

Tip # 2.Do not rush to apply nitrogen fertilizer immediately after transplantation. It is used when the plant is rooted. It makes no sense to stimulate the growth of green mass until the gooseberry has taken root.

In spring, the “program” of the plant is aimed at the formation of young shoots and leaves. During this period, enhanced nutrition is needed for all plants, especially transplanted ones. Most nitrogen is required. It drives the growth of young cells. Nitric salts dissolve well and are quickly washed out of the soil, which is also why they are used more than other fertilizers.

Organic fertilizer dressing

Of organic fertilizers, nitrogen is rich in fresh bird droppings, but you can’t use it in its pure form, the plant will get burned or die at all. People say: “It will burn”! To prevent this, the litter should be dissolved in water and kept for a week. Infusion is used for watering 1 ten-liter bucket in one hole. Before applying fertilizer, the mulch must be removed.

It is better to feed transplanted gooseberries with liquid means, regardless of whether they are mineral or organic. Before applying dressing, the bush is watered. Fertilizer is evenly applied along the perimeter of the trunk circle, it is here that the young regrowth roots are located.

Complex specialized mineral fertilizer "Berry bushes"

Effective microorganisms are a good ally of organic fertilizers, with their participation soil enrichment processes occur much faster. Example, the formation of humus from plant debris occurs in nature for 2 to 3 years. In the presence of "Emochki", the process takes 2 to 3 months.

The peculiarity of soil microflora is such that it activates at a positive temperature of at least + 12 0, so you should not use them immediately after transplantation, if it took place in early April. Microflora is never introduced if a mineral fertilizer was used. Chemicals kill living cultures and mineralize the soil. You have to choose between synthesized fertilizers and organic substances.

Summer care for shrubs in the garden

The main task in the summer is watering. If there is no rain, then the transplanted gooseberries are watered twice a week until the end of June. In mid-summer, the interval can be increased to two weeks. In hot weather, you need to irrigate not only the soil, but also the crown of the bush. This procedure is called sprinkling. The plant "breathes" the entire surface of the leaves and stems.

Due to drought, the tissues narrow and the air penetrates poorly into cells. Water cools the crown, and relaxes the cell membrane. You can water or sprinkle gooseberries only in the morning or in the evening. In the scorching sun, water droplets even in flight turn into “boiling water” and burn the leaves.

The end of June is the time for summer dressing. Often it is missed, giving preference to spring and autumn. This is correct if the plant feels good. Transplanted gooseberries can be supported by a complex mineral fertilizer for berry shrubs, in which potassium predominates. With its help, leaves better cope with drought. Potassium salts protect the cell membrane while maintaining a supply of water. So the plant evaporates less moisture.

Fertilizer can be applied only in the morning or in the evening after watering.

Preparing for fall and winter

The final water-charging irrigation is carried out when the average daily temperature is +8 0. One bush will need 50 liters of water. At first glance, too much, but it is worth remembering that the next irrigation will be melted snow. And nobody canceled the water cycle in nature in winter. Dry soil freezes quickly, which means that the plant can suffer.

It is important to prepare the root system for winter. Phosphate fertilizers will help strengthen it. The phosphorus fertilizer application rates are shown in the table:

After watering and fertilizing, the trunk circle is protected with covering material:

• dry lawn grass;
• mowed hay, preferably without seeds;
• sawdust;
• leaves of healthy plants.

The gooseberry crown hibernates well and does not require shelter. If you follow the simple recommendations, the transplanted gooseberry will successfully survive the cold and will delight you with healthy berries in the spring.

Ripe Gooseberries

Serious mistakes in transplanting gooseberries in spring

Error number 1.  Sometimes adult gooseberries are transplanted like a seedling.

Shrubs with open roots take root much worse. Earthen com significantly increases the chances of survival.

Mistake # 2.  Gardeners often neglect rooting.

Specialists have developed these drugs to help the plant when planting and transplanting. Even in a perfect coma, the roots are damaged in order for the young to grow, they need the support that the roots provide.

Mistake # 3.  One of the reasons for the death of gooseberries can be cold water.

Often you can hear bewilderment about the poor health of the transplanted gooseberry. They did everything right, carefully looked after, watered generously, and the bush disappeared. Probably the reason lies in the temperature of the water. For watering gooseberries you need + 18 0 - + 25 0. If the source is a deep artesian well, the water from it for the bush is “ice”. Moreover, when the soil is heated in a day like a frying pan. Such temperature drops are fatal for gooseberries, and for other plants.

Gooseberry bushes are intertwined with each other over the years, in order to put this shrub in order, it must be transplanted. Such events are also carried out in cases where there are problems with productivity, when the place turned out to be inappropriate, and the plant becomes weaker every year. Sometimes the need for a transplant is caused by the desire to make room for other purposes.

When to plant and how to choose a place to plant?

When can I transplant gooseberries? The most suitable time for these works is autumn. The positive points in favor of choosing this time of year are as follows:

Gooseberries are best suited for places well lit by the sun and not blown by the wind.

Raw and clay soil is not suitable for it; such a soil will contribute to the development of fungal diseases. It is not worth waiting for a good harvest from a bush planted in such a place.

When choosing a place for gooseberries, you should pay attention to the following features:

If you are planning to plant bushes near the fence or next to young trees, you need to consider their future growth.

Methods and rules of transplantation, preparation of seedlings

Spring transplant should be carried out in exceptional cases. For example, if a gooseberry transplanted in the fall fell under frost because of the early arrival of winter.

The complexity of transplanting shrubs in the spring is that due to the early appearance of buds, you have to constantly be near it. If you miss this moment, then the gooseberry transplant will be delayed until next season.

Due to damage to the roots, and this can not be avoided during transplantation, a blossoming bush in a new place may not take root.

In gardening, there are two ways to plant and propagate plants: together with an earthen lump and in the form of seedlings. Sapling is a woody plant whose roots are peeled from the ground. They are not subject to long storage, and they take root more difficult, since their root system has been severely damaged.

Both options are suitable for autumn shrub transplantation, but for spring planting with seedlings is not an option. Their root system does not have time to take root before the movement of juice begins.

Young seedlings, which are only 1 or 2 years old, are most suitable for breeding gooseberries, they take root much better than older seedlings. The main roots covered with a yellowish bark should be at least three, and in length they should reach about 15 cm.

The fibrous roots should also be developed, the upper part should consist of two stalks reaching a height of 0.4 m. There should be no leaves on the prepared seedling. If there are unhealthy roots, they must be removed. After the preparatory measures, it remains to carry out stimulation of the root system.

To do this, seedlings (15-20 pieces) must be placed in the mashroom prepared according to the following recipe:

1. Chernozem - 1 kg.
2. Clay - 1 kg.
3. Kornevin - 1 or 2 sachets.
4. Aktara - 6 g.

Combine all components and add 3 l of water.

Compliance with the rules of transplantation will contribute to better rooting of bushes, namely:

At the new location, the landing depth should be 5 cm more compared to the previous location. While the temperature is outside, the gooseberries need to be watered all the time.

When watering, mulch needs to be removed, after the event, it needs to be returned to its place. In winter, the landing site must be insulated with sawdust, this will be enough.

Gooseberry propagation and care

In order to propagate plant bushes, the most common method can be applied: the horizontal layering method. In early spring, without waiting for the buds to open, the parietal area must be shaped like a saucer.

Healthy young branches should be bent to this site and fastened to the ground with wooden hooks. From the side buds located on these branches, new shoots will grow. They, having reached 10 - 15 cm, should be sprinkled with earth. With the advent of autumn, they should be dug up and those that have developed well can be planted in a permanent place.

Another method of propagation of the bush is carried out using cuttings. In mid-September, you need to cut off a certain amount of lignified shoots. The upper soft part needs to be cut, then you need to make two slices: one - above the kidney, and the second - below 25-35 cm from it.

Then, in the prepared strip, deepened by 20 cm, you need to install these shoots with an interval of 15 cm, two buds should remain above the ground. After the trench should be covered with earth and compacted. After a year, they need to be planted in a new place.

Gooseberries, as well as other berry bushes, must be taken care of, otherwise the bush will cease to bring crops. In autumn, measures should be taken to protect the plant from diseases and pests.

The harvest next year depends on how gooseberries are processed. To protect the bushes from fungal diseases, you need to use a product prepared by diluting 50 g of Chloroxy copper in 10 l of water, or Bordeaux liquid. A composition prepared from 20 g of Karbofos and 10 l of water will help protect against aphids, sawflies and fires.

Before spraying, you need to shrub and clean the area around it. Processing sites near the trunks should begin with the removal of weeds. It is advisable to remove them along with the root, otherwise their presence will be constant. Next, you need to loosen the earth and mulch.

Simultaneously with the treatment of periostemal circles, it is necessary to feed the plant, for this you will need Potassium and Phosphorus, it is enough to take 20 g and 30 g to the bush, respectively. It will not be amiss to make a nutritious mound, not more than 10 cm, under a plant of humus or peat mated to wood ash. It is advisable to feed the bush before the onset of cold weather.

If it’s rainy autumn, you don’t need to water the gooseberries, if there is no rain, you need to water the gooseberries. At the same time, the norm for one bush is 30 liters.

In order for the shrub to bring a good harvest, it is necessary to trim the branches of gooseberries. In the first and second year after the planted plant, it is necessary to cut off shoots that are damaged and located close to the ground.

There are such varieties of gooseberries, in which many shoots appear near the roots. These bushes for 3 to 4 years need to be thinned out, it is enough to leave 2 or 3 healthy, young shoots. When the bush is 5 or 6 years old, the number of branches should be 15 - 18 pieces. Further, every year 1–2 old and weak branches are subject to circumcision. Circumcision of the plant can be performed in autumn when the leaves are discarded. For work, use a sharp secateurs, then the slices will be smooth and even.

In addition to care, which is carried out in the autumn, it is important to pay attention to other activities.

During winter, the earth becomes dense, so with the advent of spring it will be necessary to loosen it. Since gooseberries love loose soil, for the whole season it is advisable to loosen the soil 4-5 times. Throughout the season, after it has been watered or rained, it is necessary to mulch the soil in order to maintain moisture and prevent the appearance of weeds.

It is useful to know about how to transplant gooseberries in the fall not only to those who need to renew the site, but also to those who are interested in how to plant the gooseberries and when to transplant gooseberries to increase the area planted with this plant.  When replanting and planting bushes of a given crop for the first time in autumn, one should not worry that they will not take root well.

Gooseberries have been grown in our country for a long time. In Russia, already in the 11th century, monks cultivated cultivars of this berry in the monastery gardens. Thus, gooseberries were domesticated much earlier than the popular currants and raspberries. Now   the fruits of this berry are appreciated for the rich composition of vitamins, medicinal properties and delicious gooseberry jam. Although the plant is unpretentious, grows in Russia, Ukraine, it is necessary to approach its planting with all responsibility. Planted in compliance with all the rules, gooseberries are able to yield up to 10 kg per year for 40 years. Let's take a closer look at the rules for planting gooseberries in the fall.

Gooseberries are planted both in spring and autumn. In the spring, landing should be done as early as possible, preferably in the first half of April. It is important that the plant has not yet moved away from its winter dormant state. If the buds begin to bloom, then the chances that the seedling will take root will be reduced. But also a shrub planted on time will have a worse survival rate in spring than with an autumn planting. What month to plant gooseberries, you ask? Gardeners with experience recommend planting gooseberries late August - September - early October, depending on the region - Moscow Region, the Urals, the middle strip of Russia.

The best time for autumn planting is the last week of September and the first weeks of October. However, you need to focus on the weather. The main thing is that the first frosts come no earlier than two weeks later, and that the young roots do not freeze. And it is better to choose a non-sunny day and no wind, so that the roots do not dry out in the open air.

With the right choice of planting time in the fall, the plant takes root in almost 100% of cases. Among the other advantages of autumn planting are:

• Before the cold, there’s time seedling roots managed to grow stronger and grow.
• Spring plant will begin to develop rapidly.
• Before the winter the soil around the shrub will settle well and compact.
• A plant that has taken root in the fall spring will begin the process of vegetation with full force, which will provide greater growth of young shoots by next fall.

Planting gooseberries in the fall, although it gives great guarantees, it is very important not to be late with its timing.

The dates given are averaged. You need to start from the climate of your region. For the southern regions, the dates can move to October-November, and for the northern regions, the beginning of September is also suitable.

If you have decided the right time, a significant point for a successful planting is the preparation of a plant seedling.

How to choose and prepare a seedling

When buying a seedling, be sure to pay attention to the following indicators:

1. Seedling age. It should not exceed two years, an adult plant will take root more slowly and adapt longer to new conditions.
2. A sufficiently large number of roots. Among them should be three or more skeletal, the length of which exceeds 15 cm. And much more fibrous roots.
3. Shoots of the aerial parts of the plant length should reach 30-40 cm.

After buying a seedling, it is prepared for planting. To do this, you must:

1. Remove leaves  with a seedling.
2. Do crop  dry roots.
3. Dip the sapling in the clay mashprepared in advance. To prepare the solution, mix clay and chernozem 1 kg each, 2 packs of Kornevin, and fill with 3 liters of water.

Seat selection

It is equally important to choose the right place for a future landing. Where to plant this fruit shrub? Do not plant gooseberries between trees, this will create a shortage of sunlight. The neighborhood with currants is also detrimental to the plant, because they are susceptible to the same diseases and pests. Well, if before planting gooseberries, legumes, beets or potatoes were grown on this land.

The soil should be loose, the bush will not grow well in too heavy and waterlogged land. If groundwater lies high on the garden plot, then gooseberries are best planted at the highest place, or create an artificial elevation for it from the ground.

The proper placement of the bushes when planting several plants at once matters. Gooseberries are growing quite well. An eight-year bush reaches 2.5 meters in diameter.

There are several patterns of planting gooseberries:

1. Sparse landing. In this case, the bushes are planted in rows at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other, and between the rows leave a space of 2 meters wide. After 4-5 years, the plants will grow so much that they will be one continuous strip.
2. Planting between rows of young fruit trees. Under such conditions, gooseberries will grow well until the crowns above it begin to close. After this, the bushes should be transplanted to a more illuminated place.
3. Combined circuit. Plants are planted in rows at a distance of 75 cm from each other, observing a distance between rows of 1 m. When, after several years, the bushes begin to close, they need to be thinned out after one, replanting part of the plants to a new place. After a couple of years, thinning needs to be repeated. This scheme contributes to a larger yield of berries and significantly saves space on the site.

To expedite a plentiful harvest, gardeners sometimes plant two seedlings at once in one large hole, leaving a distance of 20 cm between them. In the early years, the harvest will indeed be good, however, the bushes will soon begin to thicken and grow old. At the same time, their roots will be so intertwined that it will be almost impossible to plant the plants.

When you prepare the seedlings and choose a good place for the gooseberry, you can proceed to the direct planting of the plant.

Gooseberry planting technology in spring and autumn

Planting a plant includes the following steps:

1. In the selected area you need digging up the earth no more than a bayonet on a shovel. In this case, all lumps are broken and weeds are eliminated.
2. Dig a hole, its size should slightly exceed the root system of the seedling, on average it is 50x50x50 cm. This should be done a little in advance - a couple of weeks before the landing. The upper fertile land needs to be folded on one side, and the rest on the other.
3. Fertilize the pit. At 2/3, it must be filled with fertile soil mixed with compost (1.5 buckets), superphosphate (300 g), peat (1.5 buckets), ash (3 cups), ground limestone (1 cup). From above it is necessary to pour more fertile soil and fill it all with 0.5 liters of water.
4. Before boarding the hole must be left to stand in this form for a couple of weeksso that the soil has settled enough.
5. During a direct landing, set the seedling in the hole by tilting it slightly. In this case, the root neck should be located in the very center of the fossa, and the roots should be spread out on the sides. To avoid voids, the space between the roots must be covered with earth. Gooseberries are usually deepened 5 cm lower than at the last place of seedling growth  (this is easy to track by traces on the cortex). Thus, conditions will be created for the growth of additional roots and shoots from the buried buds of the plant.
6. The earth around the seedling needs trample and water abundantly.
7. Add mulch to the hole  from peat or leaves with a layer of 10 cm.

After planting in the fall, young plants do not require special care, until spring you can not touch them. Mulch and snowfall will help the sapling to winter. If you are afraid that there will be little snow in the winter, then you can additionally insulate the gooseberry with covering materials.

After planting in spring, for survival and growth, trim the plant. At the same time, cut the aerial part by 10 cm, and leave 2-3 buds on each shoot. During autumn planting, this pruning is not recommended. If you still decide to do it, then be sure to cover all the slices with garden var.

How to transplant an adult bush

When choosing a planting scheme with further thinning of the rows, it is important to know the rules for transplanting gooseberries. Plants should also be transplanted in the fall, so that the plants take root more easily in a new place. To safely remove the bush from the ground, dig it on each side at a distance of 30 cm from the base. Thick roots can be chopped off, this will not harm the plant. Further, with the help of a shovel, the bush is removed from the soil, together with an earthen lump, it is laid on polyethylene and moves to a new landing site. The technology of planting an adult plant itself is no different from planting seedlings.

Such a capricious plant as gooseberries does not require constant care of it. One time is enough to give him timehaving landed in accordance with all the rules, and for many years the plant will provide you with a tasty and healthy crop.

Gooseberries can be transplanted both in autumn and spring, but an autumn transplant is always preferable to a spring one. This is due to the fact that the vegetative period of gooseberry begins very early, and if you do not have time to transplant it before the leaves bloom, this operation will negatively affect the growth of the plant. Therefore, if it so happened that in the fall you did not have time to move the plant to a new place, do it in the spring, but as soon as possible - into the first warm “window” after winter.

Site preparation

If the plot for the spring planting of gooseberries is littered with weeds, then it must be prepared in the fall. The earth is dug up, and all roots of weeds are selected. This is done so that subsequently the bush does not become clogged with perennial grass, which will be very difficult to get from the thorny branches of gooseberries. Compost is made for digging, and if the soil is clay, sand should also be added. In the spring, after digging a planting pit, 200 g of lime and humus are introduced into it, and all this is dug up at the bottom of the pit.

How to dig a gooseberry bush?

During the transplant, the bush will be pruned and this can be done before it is dug up so that the thorny branches interfere with the transplantation process as little as possible. All branches damaged during the winter and all very old and lignified are cut. Branches are also cut, leaning too low to the ground and thickening the middle of the bush. One and two year old shoots are cut to a third of the length. Such a hard pruning will contribute to the fact that the forces of the plant will be directed primarily to its rooting, and gooseberries will take root more quickly in a new place.

Having departed from the bush 40 cm, it is deeply dug. If roots appear under a shovel, they just need to be cut with a pruner, not trying to dig out the root system completely. When the moat around the bush is enough to pull out the bush, you need to pull it by the branches, grabbing them at the base. The assistant at this time should help by lifting the bush from below with a shovel. The dug plant is transferred to a new place and is located in the center of the planting pit.

Gooseberry Planting

40 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate and a bucket of humus are added to the earth, which was extracted from the new pit, and mixed. This mixture is poured between the roots of gooseberries, which is shaken from time to time to fill the voids as best as possible. When the pit is full, it is poured with two buckets of water and wait until it is absorbed into the soil. After that they add more soil and watered again. The earth around the bush is mulched with peat or humus. Fertilizers laid in the pit during planting will be enough for the bush to feed on them for 3-4 years without additional fertilizing.

In the year of planting, the gooseberry crop will be very weak, or it will not be at all, but over the summer, with good watering, the bush will come into effect, and will bear fruit in full force next year.

For various reasons, it is necessary to transplant gooseberries in a summer cottage: overgrown bushes, an initially improperly selected place or allocation of territory for construction. Sometimes you have to completely remove all the bushes, sending them to a new place of residence. At the same time, it is important to adhere to certain rules so that plants take root more quickly.

When to transplant

Gooseberry transplant can be done in spring or autumn. Spring transplanting is less desirable since:

• the plant "wakes up" very quickly after winter dormancy, in connection with this it is difficult to choose the optimal time for the procedure, because the procedure must be performed before the sap flow begins;
• during the formation of kidneys, gooseberry roots are undesirable to injure, since the main forces of the plant are aimed at developing the upper part, and not strengthening the underground.

As a result, the transplanted bush adapts slowly, develops poorly, the quality of the crop decreases.

In the summer, it is also undesirable to transplant gooseberries, because at this time the green mass is growing, damaged roots will adapt for a long time.

It is better to give preference to the autumn procedure, because:

• the bush has already completed fruiting, so all the forces will be directed specifically to strengthening the root system, and not the development of the upper part;
• he gradually passes into a stage of rest, so he can easily adapt to new conditions;
• transplanting gooseberries in autumn is much easier than in spring.

It is better to transplant gooseberry bushes in the fall after falling leaves. The optimal time for a culture transplant to a new place is September-early October. A month or two and a half is enough for the bush to strengthen before the onset of frost.

Choosing a place for a gooseberry transplant

The correct plot is a certain guarantee that the bush will not just take root, but also increase fruiting. When choosing a place you need to consider the following nuances:

• currants and raspberries will not be the best neighbors or predecessors, because they have common pests and diseases with gooseberries that can be transmitted “by inheritance”;
• gooseberries can be transplanted after potatoes, legumes and beets, clovers or lupins;
• the culture loves sunlight and humidity, but wetlands with stagnant water should be avoided: under such conditions, a fungus develops well against which many varieties of gooseberries do not have protective immunity;
• the place must be protected from the winds.

An important role is played by the type of soil on which the crop will grow. It should have the following characteristics:

1. Ease. Gooseberries grow well on loam. Heavy soil can be alleviated by adding sand and peat, while clay that is too light is desirable.
2. Weak acidity. To check it, put a few leaves of currant or cherry in a container, fill them with boiling water (0.5 l), cover. When the water cools, a lump of tested soil is sent to it. If the water remains green, then the acidity is normal, if it turns red it is acidic, and the bluish blue indicates insufficient acidity. Acidity can be reduced by adding lime or dolomite flour.
3. Fertility. So that the bush can receive from the soil the nutrients necessary for it to restore strength and development.

Having picked up a site, they dig it up and clean it, removing all plant debris, mark out places for planting. After that, they go directly to the procedure.

How to transplant gooseberries

There are two ways to transplant a gooseberry bush: together with an earthen lump or a seedling.

Planting a bush with a lump

Before planting, adult old gooseberries cut out all the old and excess shoots. As a result, no more than 7 of the youngest and most healthy branches should remain. They are shortened by 1/3.

Now you can dig up the bush. For this:

• dig it around the circumference at a distance of about 30 cm;
• chop the thick roots that stretch further;
• carefully remove the bush from the soil with a shovel and lay it on the film so that it can be transferred to a new place.

When transplanting a large bush of gooseberry, the diameter of the part to be dug is determined by the size of the crown and is taken out very carefully so as not to damage the numerous roots.

Further actions are carried out in stages:

1. Pit preparation. It is dug up about half a meter deep and slightly larger in diameter than the size of the bush. Several buckets of water are poured into it.
2. Installation of a bush.
3. Sleeping voids with a mixture of earth and compost.
4. Tamping soil.
5. Abundant watering of a bush fixed in the ground.
6. Dry falling asleep and mulching.

If a massive gooseberry transplant is planned, it is important to consider the following:

• the landing site is prepared in advance, pits can be dug right before landing, but it is better to outline their place in advance;
• shrubs are planted at a distance of 1.5-2 m;
• between the rows leave 1.3-1.5 m.
• transplant bushes one at a time in separate holes;
• if the diameter of the dug hole is small, then it is increased.

By transshipment, you can transplant a small plant at any time (except winter, of course). You only need to dig in a portion slightly larger than the crown, so that when digging out as little as possible damage the root system. Further - according to the general scheme. In August, very small gooseberry processes can be transplanted using the same method.

Planting a seedling

The main difference of a sapling is the root system cleared of the soil. That is why they cannot be stored for too long, and they adapt to the new conditions for a long time, because their roots were injured when digging and cleaning. For the spring landing of gooseberries, this option is definitely not suitable, since the roots do not have time to adapt before the sap flow begins.

For planting, take a young bush (no older than two years), on which there are at least three main roots with a length of about 15 cm. The adnexal roots must also be developed. The aerial part consists of two shoots about 40 cm long, freed from leaves.

The preparation of gooseberry seedlings for transplantation consists in removing unhealthy roots and stimulating the entire root system in a specially prepared talker (1 kg of clay and black soil, a bag of Kornevin and 6 g of Actara are taken for 3 liters of water).

Transplanting gooseberries in the fall to a new place with seedlings is similar to the previous method:

1. Prepare the pit.
2. A small mound of earth is poured into it.
3. Set a seedling on it vertically or slightly inclined so that the root neck is deepened by 7-10 cm.
4. Holding the trunk, they fill the soil, periodically compact it. At the same time, the bush is shaken a little so that the earth fills all the internal voids.
5. Shed and mulched, the branches are cut to the lower kidney.
6. For winter, seedlings are covered with sawdust.

Gooseberry care after transplantation is timely watering. Before the procedure, the mulch is removed, and after moisturizing, it is returned under the bush. Gooseberries do not need shelter for the winter. It is enough just to warm with sawdust.