DIY garage from scrap materials. How to build a frame garage with your own hands

It is quite possible to build a comfortable garage yourself in a month. Of course, if there is an assistant, then the work will go faster and it is quite possible to keep within two weeks. The main thing is to decide on the choice of material.

Consider the most affordable materials from which to build a garage, with the lowest cost in terms of complexity:

Ready-made metal structures can be installed in a day on a shallow foundation or concrete slabs. The downside of such a building is that you need high-quality insulation and waterproofing.
The option from corrugated board will cost less, but welding will be required.
Sandwich panel garage - fast and convenient. Insulated panels with a thickness of at least 100 mm are mounted on a metal frame. A foundation device for such a building is not required, a tamped cushion made of rubble is enough. For a private house, an ideal quick and convenient option at minimal cost.
If there is access to inexpensive wood, then it is reliable and durable. Logs treated with an antiseptic and fire retardants are not inferior to stone and brick in terms of thermal insulation and durability, and even better.
A reliable and warm brick garage will cost more, for it you will need to fill in a strip or slab foundation and take care of the insulated roof. A foam concrete garage will cost less, but in this case you will have to think about high-quality insulation and waterproofing.

Let's take a closer look at each construction option, then it will be easier to decide which garage is more profitable for you.

If you compare in price, then cinder blocks are a budget choice. The principle of construction from brick or stone is similar, so we will consider the construction of blocks step by step.

There are different block options on sale, but it is important to pay attention to their configuration. Solid blocks should be used for the foundation, they better withstand heavy loads, and hollow blocks for the walls of the garage.

Types of blocks and their characteristics:

Materials pressed from blast-furnace slag with the addition of perlite or polystyrene are the most reliable and durable.
After construction, shell rock requires mandatory plastering of the walls from the inside and outside, but it is famous for its excellent thermal insulation characteristics.
Foam concrete is convenient and inexpensive, does not require finishing, keeps heat well.

The disadvantage of any block material is that it is not resistant to moisture. Even on dry soils, it is imperative to lay a layer of waterproofing on the foundation. With a high occurrence of groundwater on the site, it is an expensive pleasure - you need serious waterproofing, it is better to choose other materials.

Foundation device

A brick garage (in one, half a brick) or cinder blocks can be safely laid on a reinforced strip foundation of medium depth. The width of the tape is 40-45 cm, the depth is 50 cm, not less.

A building made of foam concrete or cinder block must be installed on a low hydro- and heat-insulated base in order to cut off moisture from the ground. Ordinary rolled roofing material in two layers is perfect for construction.

After the foundation is erected, the basement is heat and vapor insulated using a special material. A universal option for hydro, heat and vapor insulation is a simple roofing felt. For vapor barrier, you can choose a special foundation membrane.

It is important to remember that it will take 28 to 30 days for the concrete to harden, depending on the weather. Therefore, it is better to fill the foundation in early spring, when the soil thaws, but there is still no heat. These are the best conditions for the perfect hardening of concrete and the construction of any concrete base.

You can fill the base in the fall, but here you need to be guided by the weather. Cinder blocks can only be installed in dry weather, the material must not be allowed to get wet.

Masters advise a brick base for a garage - it is safer and more durable. The height of the basement, depending on the soil moisture, is 10 - 20 cm.

It is imperative to provide for a blind area, 50 cm wide

Wall erection, screed, roofing

Do-it-yourself masonry from blocks is much easier and faster than brick or stone. If you need a warm garage, then we lay out the walls with the poke method in one stone. For the southern regions, a floor of stone laid with a spoon method is quite enough.

Important. We install the gate before we start building the walls. The same rule is observed when laying from bricks.

For the north, it is necessary to erect a wall of at least two stones, since a wall of one stone freezes at a temperature of -15 and higher, serious insulation will be needed, which is not cheap.

To make the building wall even, first we lay out the corners, and then we lay the cinder blocks along the cord using the brickwork method with overlapping the seam of the lower row.

The floor screed can also be poured with M200 cement, it is cheaper, but at least ten centimeters thick.

Brick or stone masonry

We also install brick or stone walls on a strip foundation of medium depth with the obligatory arrangement of the basement. Consistency and nuances:

A plinth for brick and stone is needed at least 10 cm high.
It is important to lay roofing material waterproofing on top of the basement.
Before building the walls, the garage doors must be installed so that they are firmly embedded in the brickwork. Embedded rods with a pitch of 30 cm are welded along the perimeter of the gate and embedded in the seams of the brickwork.
We put the brick in the usual way (chain), starting from the corners.
Masonry mortar: cement M400, not lower, in the proportions of a bucket of cement for four buckets of sand. It is important that the solution is not liquid, the consistency of thick sour cream is better. For plasticity, you can add half a bucket of clay or milk of lime.
The height of the wall at the gate is 250 cm, the slope towards the back wall to a height of two meters.

If you need a wall height of three meters or more, then the walls need to be reinforced with a metal mesh. The most reliable reinforcement option is every fifth row of brickwork.

The slope for the roof should be at least five centimeters per meter of wall masonry. The standard slope for good water drainage with a wall height difference of 30 centimeters.

Roof

We choose a single-pitched roof based on the budget - slate will cost less, the corrugated board will have to be additionally insulated with a layer of plywood or other cladding material.

Overlaps for a garage can be made of wood, but metal beams are more reliable and durable. They are embedded in the walls to a depth of 10 cm. For cinder block walls, it is important to strengthen the installation site of the beam with a layer of concrete.

What else is important to pay attention to:

The step of the floor beams is 80 cm with a slope along the level of the walls.
The protrusion outside the walls is at least 20 cm.
Rough filing made of 40 mm unedged board with a minimum of gaps.
As waterproofing on the boards - rolled roofing felt.
Insulation layer for roofing material - expanded clay, slag, mineral wool. It is undesirable to use polystyrene, it has zero air conductivity, which is dangerous for the garage.

All wooden structures must be painted or treated with a deep penetration antiseptic for wood. Building a garage with your own hands will cost 50 percent less than hiring a team of builders, but it will take twice as long.

Prefabricated metal structures with different cladding

The disadvantages of a metal garage are cold and high humidity. Building a garage from ready-made sheets on a frame is quick and convenient. On the frame welded from metal, you can install two wall options:

Sandwich panels are slabs of two profiled metal sheets with a layer of insulation inside.
Decking - for walls, only PS or C marking is suitable. Sheet rigidity is at least 20. For a light and durable structure, S-20 decking is needed.

Solid concrete blocks or concrete slabs are suitable as a foundation for such a prefabricated structure. Some craftsmen are sure that there is simply no more reliable slabs than a poured slab monolithic foundation, 50 cm deep.

The frame posts are concreted into the foundation. It is imperative to provide a blind area, up to 20 cm wide.

On the installed and welded frame with screws, rivets or bolts, sheets of corrugated board or sandwich panels are installed.

Wooden garage

Building a garage made of wood is inexpensive and fast. Nowadays, prefabricated structures using frame technology are very popular. Such buildings are lightweight, do not require a serious foundation, and there is an opportunity to insulate the walls.

Key milestones:

The base can be monolithic reinforced on a sand or gravel cushion with a blind area around the perimeter of 20 cm, or made of cheap material - concrete blocks, with a thickness of 30 cm.
An inexpensive columnar foundation is also suitable for a frame garage.
Since wood shrinks from moisture, the main focus is on waterproofing the foundation and basement. Logs and boards must be treated with water-repellent impregnation and painted.
Around the entire perimeter of the foundation and along the plinth, lay a layer of waterproofing from roofing material.
The corner posts are made of timber, and the rest of the frame is made of 50x100 boards, this is quite enough. For the upper logs, a 25x100 board is also suitable, but the lower bars must be taken thicker.
Bottom harness with an interval of 120 cm.
Any finishing material can be mounted on the frame - facade siding or wall paneling ..
A layer of steam and waterproofing between the outer and inner lining - mineral wool in rolls or slabs, a vapor barrier film and plain polyethylene.
The roof can be installed both single-pitched and gable, depending on the chosen structure of the building.

From the inside, you can sheathe the frame with sheets of plywood and paint it with paint with the addition of fire retardants. In wooden garages, the gates are installed last, so that the building does not move under the weight of metal.

Brick is expensive, but lately it is not in demand, and not only because of its high cost. Yes, the brick looks beautiful, has excellent characteristics, but the construction takes too long. Another thing - alternative materials:

Here are the three main building materials used economical builders... Let's explore the detailed technologies building a garage is cheap and reliable.

From wood

Perhaps, wood- this is the best option, because here, like in no other option, external aesthetics, environmental friendliness, efficiency and ease of construction are successfully combined. But working with wood has its own nuances.

Please note that there are two construction methods: from rounded logs and frame technology... The first is more reliable, the second is cheaper. Choose the option that suits you best.

Technology

How to build a cheap garage with your own hands from wood? Preparatory stage consists in choosing the place of the future structure and its model. Garages can be either free-standing or attached to the building. The types of gate opening are also multivariate. All these points should be decided in advance.

After drawing up a plan and layout, the building site is leveled, cleaned, rammed. The site should be perfectly flat so that after that it does not turn out kinks and distortions.

The site is ready, it's time to start the most important part of our construction - pouring the foundation... A trench is being dug along the perimeter of the future development, on which the formwork is installed. Necessarily need to do pillow from several layers of sand and gravel, which is carefully compacted.

The base is reinforced with metal rods and poured with concrete. Now you need to let the foundation stand at least three weeks... When the foundation is ready, we proceed to the lower strapping, which is carried out from the board 50x100 mm.

ATTENTION: Do not forget about the tendency of wood to absorb moisture and rot. Therefore, pre-process the building boards antiseptic.

For corner posts and gate leaves, it is best to take bar, while other elements of the frame are made from boards 50x100 mm... When carrying out the lower strapping, maintain an interval of no more than 120 cm.

Also, if you want your garage to be as strong, sturdy, good-quality as possible and last a long time, install corner braces... This will give the structure more stability.

The hardest part of the job is pouring the foundation and frame erection... For the frame, stronger, thicker boards are needed, while for the arrangement you can already use a board of 25x100 mm, even a simple lining is suitable here. The board is then sheathed with any finishing material, after which it is necessary to carry out hydro and vapor barrier, laying several layers of polyethylene or polypropylene film.

As you can see, the garage is the cheapest made of wood not that hard to build.

Photo of the garage made of wood:

Cinder block

The second most popular building material for a garage is cinder block... Today, cinder blocks are of several types:

from blast-furnace slag, which is famous for its excellent characteristics and durability;
shell rock;
brick fight.

To improve performance, some manufacturers add more perlite, polystyrene and other materials.

Everybody is good at cinder block, but one is in it flaw: like a tree, it absorbs moisture, which is why it quickly collapses. With dry soil, this quality of the material will not be problematic, and with proper construction it will last up to fifty years, but in places where groundwater, it is better to choose another material, because if the tree can still be varnished, carry out such manipulations with the cinder block it is forbidden.

ATTENTION: You need to know that cinder blocks are divided into types, not only by composition, but also by configuration, into hollow ones, which are used for walls, and corpulent ones, intended for a foundation. Ignoring this feature can lead to rapid destruction of the entire structure.

Technology

In the construction of a garage from cinder block, we also carry out preparatory work, cleaning and leveling the site, developing a plan for the future building.

A jellied foundation is ideal for a tree, but cinder blocks do not need such a powerful support, it will do here. The strip foundation is made as follows: the top layer of soil is removed and a trench is dug about 45-50 cm deep, 40-45 cm wide. Then a pillow is made of sand and broken brick, which is then poured with cement.

You can do it differently: the trench is covered with sand, and then filled with water. The combination of water and sand gives the structure strength and makes it resistant to time and changes in temperature and humidity. After that, reinforcement is laid on the bottom and the whole structure is concreted.

After a month, you can start building the walls. The third way to build a strip foundation even easier: instead of sand, rubble stone is poured into the trench and the whole structure is filled with cement raster, not lower than mark 150.

After the construction of the foundation, the basement is equipped with heat and vapor barrier materials. The most versatile option for hydro, heat and vapor insulation is a simple roofing felt.

walling;
floor screed;
roofing;
hanging a gate.

Cinder block masonry identical with laying bricks, only here this work is carried out several times faster. Laying can be carried out in the floor of the stone (spoon method) or in one stone (poke method).

Also, masonry of 2 and 1.5 stones is practiced. You choose the option that suits you, remembering that the thickness of the walls directly affects the durability of the garage and its ability to withstand sudden changes in temperature. A garage in one stone will freeze in winter, even if several heaters are installed in it, while one and a half and two stones will be warm and cozy.

When erecting walls, you should initially lay out the corners, and only then, stretching the construction cords between them, begin laying the blocks with the brick method, that is, overlapping the seam of the previous row.

When constructing the floor, remember that the screed must be not less than 10 cm... Concrete works well for screed M200, which is poured into several layers, and then, after drying, is rubbed.
The final stage - electrification and interior decoration.

Photo of the garage from cinder blocks:

Corrugated board

How easy is it to build a garage? For this, a universal material is suitable. corrugated board... It is great for fences, for sheds, and good garages... But here the most important condition is a competent choice of corrugated board: only PS brand or WITH.

The corrugated board is marked with a letter and a number. Letter "WITH" denotes "Purpose for the walls", the number is the stiffness of the sheet. The higher the number, the stronger the sheet. S-20- the most optimal option for construction.

Sometimes sellers, due to their illiteracy or when there is no twenty in the warehouse, advise ten or eight for construction, but! Never fall for this salesperson trick! A garage made of such a sheet, although it will cost much less, will not last long, moreover, in winter it will be icy, and it will be impossible to warm it up. And the walls will shake from the wind. You need it? We think not, therefore, we stop at the standard twenty.

Ideal decking thickness - half a millimeter.

Technology

How to build a cheap garage with your own hands from corrugated board? We need:

reinforcement and concrete for foundation construction;
elements for the frame: corner, bars, metal rods;
metal elements for gates;
self-tapping screws.

Arm yourself with the following tool:

screwdriver;
welding machine;
Bulgarian;
scissors for metal;
jigsaw.

Photo of the garage from corrugated board:

Let's get to work. First of all, fill it in. Cutting off the soil by half a meter, fill the resulting trench with sand and fill it with water. Wells are made for frame racks, which at the same time will become foundation racks.

This work will help make the foundation stronger and more resistant to ground movement. Wells are driven to a depth of at least half a meter.

Further, everything is according to the standard: a wooden formwork is being erected, on which the rods of the reinforcement structure are installed. For strength, the rods are fastened with wire. Now the main thing is not to forget to install the frame structure racks in the wells.

IMPORTANT: Before installing the racks, it is necessary to process bitumen underground part of the structure.

To ensure that the struts do not warp, they are carefully aligned using level... The last stage of work is the pouring of concrete into the reinforcement. Use grade 300, for this case, this is the ideal option.

Some builders claim that it is possible to build within two or three days after pouring concrete, but professionals advise you to wait three weeks, otherwise the foundation may crack, and then it will no longer be possible to correct the error. Patience and patience again is the key to success.

When the foundation is ready, they erect metal carcass... Here, welding, and a grinder with a jigsaw for cutting metal pipes of the desired size, and some other welding skills will come in handy. With the basic skills of a welder, the frame is cooked in a day or two. A newbie takes a week. In order to make a frame, you need to carefully study the drawing several times and cut the material, according to its data.

Using welding, we weld horizontal metal rods to the racks. Welding in progress at three points... If the frame is made of timber, then in addition to everything, special fasteners for wooden beams are welded to the posts. The bars are attached with self-tapping screws.

Now the corrugated board is attached self-tapping screws... You can fit the sheets to size using a jigsaw. This job is better done team out of three or four people, it is almost impossible to cope with it alone.

When the frame is finished, the gate installation phase begins. Here you also need to show patience and maximum attention in order not to make mistakes. The gate frame is cooked from metal corners and sheathed with profiled sheet. This work can be done in a day or two.

As a rule, it is carried out in a single-slope version. The roof frame is made of beams (wooden or metal), on which the lathing from the lining is attached. It is important to take into account the climatic features of your region.

In the southern regions, a lightweight lathing structure can be used. In the north, where the winter period with blizzards, snow drifts is quite long, it is better to make a stronger, sturdy structure that can withstand a load of snow.

We have described the main stages of construction technology. Now it's your turn to choose from which cheaper build a garage with your own hands for your swallow. And we just have to wish you good luck and a peaceful sky over your head!

Useful video

How to properly lay a cinder block during construction budget garage, watch the video:

There are a lot of ways to build a garage with your own hands: from a simple iron box with minimal amenities, to a full-fledged brick building with several rooms and the ability to live in the summer season. Most men perceive the garage as a personal area, where you can do what you love - take care of the car, tinker, relax with friends, and so on.

To begin with, you should answer the main question: why do you need a garage? Think about how you are going to use it, what you need it for in the first place. The budget, the complexity of construction, material and a set of additional amenities will depend on this.
A few motorists who simply need a place to store their car often choose private parking lots with a canopy or buy special boxes made of metal.

Small houses are transported on a tractor; their installation takes several hours. Those who wish to use the garage as a warehouse, workshop or resting place should take the construction issue more seriously. For most purposes, a solid and durable building is needed with additional amenities such as electricity and water. Also, take into account the peculiarities of the climate of your region: construction in northern latitudes will be more expensive, and technology is more complicated. Building a garage with your own hands in warm latitudes with little rainfall is easier and cheaper, but choosing a good place can be a question.

How to choose a seat

Many motorists prefer to build on the territories of garage cooperatives. In this way, you avoid serious problems with amenities and accommodation. Renting a plot of land and building a garage are inexpensive. Often, the owners of the cooperative offer a choice of one of several plans, taking into account the dimensions of the car, the height of the building, the supply of communications, and the maintenance of the building. In addition, your garage will be guarded around the clock - you don't have to worry about your property being damaged or stolen.

If you are building a garage on your site, the main problems will be the choice of location and the design of the road. Immediately, we note that the construction of a house with a garage is not recommended - a large room with an iron gate will take away heat in winter, the unpleasant smell of gasoline and oil can become a hindrance to your family. It is better to choose a plot 5-10 meters from the house, so that the garage gate and the gate from the yard are on the same line. It is better to make the distance from the garage to them about ten meters - so it will be possible to drive the car out of the garage during repairs or other works, but it will remain in your yard.

Land selection

The best option is to build on a flat piece of land. Before starting work, dig down about a meter with a shovel - make sure that there is no sand or cavities below (especially important for areas with sharp elevation changes or near rivers). A good lot will free your hands and allow you to build a large and heavy building.

The construction of a garage in urban areas, near multi-storey buildings, must be approved by the architecture department or a similar body. Illegal construction of a garage, even a metal box, is fraught with serious legal troubles. In this case, it is better to take a building plot for a long-term lease or purchase.

Size and construction

As we said, it all depends on the goals. A standard metal box measures approximately 4x4x2.3 meters - enough to put a car, make simple repairs.

A good brick garage will measure about 5 x 8x3 meters with a sloping slate roof or simple concrete floor. These dimensions offer more than just room for a car. Work benches and machines, cabinets and shelves for storing parts, fuel, chemicals for interior care, tools and more. In special cases, the garage is built with a greater depth (up to 12 meters), for a place for a motorcycle or trailer (relevant for rural areas).

When choosing a building material, you should focus on the local market. If a brick factory, a metal rolling shop or sand or stone quarries are located near the place of residence, the cost of construction can be reduced by purchasing bulk materials.

Some craftsmen build a garage made of wood. The cheapness of such a design and ease of construction are the main advantages, however, if the technology is not followed, this garage can become a grave for a car. The tree is very afraid of dampness and fire, its use as a workshop also raises questions.
Aerated concrete blocks are another matter. They are easy to put even for a beginner, they are relatively cheap and available for purchase almost throughout the CIS. However, their cost is quite high at the moment.
A brick garage with a competent masonry of 1.5-2 bricks is preferable. This is an expensive design, but it will last over 100 years if the technology is followed. It can be sold by beating off the construction price (especially if there are communications).

DIY garage foundation

For walls made of brick or aerated concrete, a foundation is required. It will become a solid support for a heavy structure, and will allow the garage to serve for more than a dozen years without major repairs.

A standard foundation pit has a depth of 1-1.5 meters, a minimum width of half a meter. You can dig it out manually or using special equipment (if available). The choice of the foundation is due to several parameters:

Availability of materials.

Time for installation or pouring.

Types of garage foundations

A monolithic foundation of stone and concrete mortar is considered traditional (proportion: 1 part of Portland cement to 3 parts of dropout). The stone is laid into the pit in an even layer of 30-40 cm, first large fragments, then medium, at the end crushed stone. It is worth pouring in one or two passes with a liquid solution. After the solution has seeped between the stones, refill it 5-10 cm below their level. Then lay a new stand according to the same scheme, fill with a solution with greater density.

Installation of such a foundation will take several days, and sometimes a week, but it will become a solid foundation for construction.

The foundation should be 20-30 cm higher than the ground level. At the final stage, it is worth laying large fragments so that they create an even plane around the entire perimeter (use a long water level or a pendulum). To finally level the level of the foundation, thick concrete and sheets of roofing material will help you. After that, you can start building walls of brick or aerated concrete.

For a wooden garage or an iron box, the foundation can be just a concrete pad with medium-diameter metal pipes poured around the perimeter of the garage. Profiles for the frame of a wooden building or the metal box itself can be welded to them.

Recently, the common methods of installing the foundation are strip, monolithic and pile (columnar, prefabricated).

- Tape - a structure made of reinforced concrete with tape pouring concrete into the pit. Metal reinforcement gives stability to the future structure, concrete creates a cushion for the future building. Before laying, it is worth filling the bottom of the pit with dry sand and waterproofing the future foundation.

- Columnar or pile is a foundation made of concrete piles (2-3 meters distance between them) and concrete filling of cavities. The main advantage of such a foundation is ease of installation, however, it also requires special equipment.

A monolithic slab is another type of strip foundation, which involves pouring a huge concrete cushion reinforced with concrete. At the bottom of the pit, 0.5-1.5 meters deep (depending on the type of soil - the more stable, the thinner the pillow can be), an even layer of sand is covered. Then it is necessary to protect the future pillow from water and fill the frame made of reinforcement (sometimes a large stone is used) with concrete. The disadvantages of such a foundation are the high cost and the need for special equipment (ideally, a concrete truck). If you lay a foundation of stone, concrete can be mixed with a small concrete mixer or even a small container (bath, bali) by hand.

Feasibility of a pit in the garage

If you are an avid car enthusiast or are engaged in private vehicle repair, you need a pit. You will be able to repair the chassis yourself, without the risk of being crushed by your own car if the jack fails. Plus, the garage pit is often used as an impromptu vegetable basement - no joke. All the useful space of the garage can be used on the farm.

When calculating the parameters of the pit, it is worth considering the distance between the wheels of the car, its weight and overall dimensions. For heavy cars (over 1.5 tons), it is worth taking care of the foundation for the pit - this will add additional reinforcement to the structure. A standard pit measures 5x, 05x1 meters and is dug out exactly in the middle of the garage. If space allows, make steps from the side of the gate for easy descent into the pit (for example, pour out of concrete). The steps can also act as tool shelves during repairs. A wooden or iron ladder for descending into the pit is not recommended - it is inconvenient and traumatic in the cold season.

Walling

Wooden walls - erection of beams along the perimeter (about a meter of distance between them), fastening them together in the upper plane using transverse beams. Use iron braces to reinforce the structure. The walls should be made of long boards, having previously covered them with a primer. For extra insulation, place sheets of foam or rock wool between the outer boards and the inner boards. Building a garage from solid logs (like a log house) is also possible, but it will cost you a lot.

Brick walls are a popular option for building a red or white brick garage. Wall thickness varies from 20 to 50 cm, depending on the type of roof. Wall masonry always starts from the corner. Use a simple water-based or more expensive laser instrument to level the level. You need to lay the brick on a thick cement mortar (the ratio of cement and sand: 1 to 3). Brick ligation should be done with an overlap. Beautiful masonry, for example "Lipetsk" or facing brick lays down last and only on a strong foundation. If the garage provides windows, then you should take care of concrete floors, which you can purchase or cast yourself.

It is not recommended to make large windows for the garage, as in the house. Small but wide windows in the upper third of the wall are a good option. They will provide enough light, but will save a lot of workspace.

Aerated concrete, like brick or cinder blocks, overlaps from the corner. Erection of walls from this material is easier and faster, but the price per m3 will cost more. If you can use used materials to build a brick garage (for example, for an additional room or interior decoration), then in the case of aerated concrete, you should choose one specific type of blocks and purchase a sufficient amount of it. In warehouses or specialized sites, use a calculator to calculate the required number of gas blocks.

The roof as the most problematic part of the construction site

It's easy to build garage walls with your own hands - two strong men can cope with this in no more than a month. However, installing a roof is often difficult. For a budget option, simple concrete floors are used, which are installed at an angle, down to the back of the garage. 2-3 standard slabs are enough to build a simple and reliable roof. To protect from rain, cover such an overlap with roofing material and tar.

If it is not possible to put concrete floors, slate or corrugated board will be a good solution. A timber frame with a slight slope towards the back wall of the garage will be a good base for slate. The gaps between the flat ceiling and the slate can be bricked.

A more complex option is a triangular roof with a small attic between the planes. In this case, you will have to order wooden beams and install them on a ready-made ceiling plane. Beams made of wood will become the legs of an isosceles triangle, fastened with brackets to each other at the apex of the triangle. Lighter boards fasten the triangles together using long self-tapping screws.

Slate sheets are placed from bottom to top, so that water does not leak under the sheets. Slate nails are driven directly into the beams, so the distance between them should be small (optimal - the width of the slate sheet minus the width of two waves).

Do-it-yourself garage door

First, let's calculate the width of the gate. The formula is simple: the width of your car + 0.5-1 meter for free entry and exit from the garage. There are several ways to make a comfortable gate:

Going up. Rack gates, which go up and in, under the ceiling, are now gaining popularity, but they need electricity to power the lifts. Small private companies are engaged in their installation.
A simpler option is to weld metal gates. The frame of double-leaf gates is welded from metal profiles. The plane can be either a solid metal sheet or a wooden shield knocked out of boards. Take care of the place for the lock in advance.
It is necessary to take the largest curtains for the gates. They are welded to a metal frame, which is assembled separately and installed during the construction of the walls.
The gate must open outward. For a large canvas, it is worth making two manual latches that will hold the canvas by the lower and upper parts of the frame. This will keep the gate from bending during gusts of wind and distortions that can come over time.

Interior decoration of the garage

If you just store the car in the garage and do nothing else there, it will be sufficient to rub the gaps between the bricks or blocks with mortar. In the case of using the garage as a workshop, you should take care of the functionality of the space - make an extractor hood, putty the walls, punch holes for socket boxes, pour metal frames under workbenches. Wall painting is not needed for such a structure. Also pay attention to the ease of cleaning - there should be no closed corners, the perimeter should be ventilated.
It is better to install lighting around the entire perimeter - 4 neon lamps above the work surface with independent switches to save energy.

Heating and insulation of the garage

This is worth taking care of if you work in a garage or live in northern latitudes with cold and frosty winters. Insulating the garage with foam is a possible option. 5cm foam sheets will protect the building from heat loss.

Heating the garage is best done with portable heat pumps. Small electric batteries and fans placed around the perimeter are a good way to heat a room.

Installation of autonomous heating, water-type batteries (in the case of an extension of the garage to the house) is theoretically possible, but practically not used in practice.

Drawings and diagrams for building a garage with your own hands

There is a huge amount of such information on the Internet. However, to plan a garage for a specific land, vehicle and purpose, it is best to consult an experienced architect. Spend a few thousand rubles for a consultation with an expert who will help you draw up a competent drawing of the future structure. Not only the survivability of the structure, but also your safety directly depends on this.

In public libraries you can still find old Soviet books on how to build a garage with your own hands. Despite the fact that new materials and construction techniques appear on the market every day, the classic schemes for building a garage can be useful to you. At the very least, you can use them to calculate overall dimensions.

Estimated estimate for construction

Land (or lease) price
Architect work
Building materials price
Rent of special equipment
Laying communications.

Building a garage in the countryside will cost you about 100,000 rubles.
For the city, this price can be three times more expensive (due to the expensive delivery of materials and the peculiarities of the legislation).

How to reduce the cost of a building - frame technology or lightweight concrete

A garage made from traditional materials, for example, brick, will be expensive, and the process of its construction is slow. Therefore, in order to solve the problem, one should resort to modern technologies and cheap building materials. As for budget technologies, frame construction is the undisputed leader. Its principle is based on the construction of a frame from a bar, which is sheathed with sheet material.

You can build such a garage very quickly, while it will turn out to be strong enough and able to reliably protect the car from various negative environmental influences. And if you insulate it and provide heating, then in such a garage you can comfortably engage in car maintenance even in winter. The only drawback is that its base is wooden, so the durability of the structure is somewhat limited, especially if it is not looked after.

If you do not want to build a frame garage, you can go the second way - use cheap wall materials, such as:

lightweight concrete blocks (aerated concrete, foam concrete or polystyrene concrete);
cinder blocks;
expanded clay blocks, etc.

The construction technology of these blocks is practically the same as the construction of bricks. But due to the fact that one block is equal in size to several bricks, the masonry speed increases several times. Such blocks are inexpensive in comparison with the same brick, since they are hollow, moreover, they are made of cheap materials.

Please note that a garage made of porous concrete blocks requires an exterior finish, as this material absorbs moisture well. If the walls are not finished, the service life of the building will be greatly reduced.

As an example, consider how cheaply it is to build a frame garage, since its technology is radically different from the construction of a brick or block structure.

We create a project - all the nuances must be on paper

Before we start building a garage with our own hands, we will prepare a project. First of all, we need to decide on the size of the future structure. Since our task is to build a budget garage, the optimal dimensions are 4x6 m. They will be quite enough for almost any car. Of course, if necessary, you can adjust the dimensions "for yourself".

Then we draw up a drawing of the frame. It is based on racks, which we will install in the corners, as well as along the walls with a step of 60 cm. We will tie the racks from the bottom and top of the racks. To give the structure rigidity, we will strengthen the posts with spacers and jumpers. To reduce the cost of construction, we will make the roof pitched. To do this, one wall must be higher than the opposite one. It is best to make a high wall on the side of the driveway so that the water from the roof drains behind the garage. You can even draw a frame by hand, the main thing is that we do not forget to indicate the dimensions of all parts in millimeters.

Another point that we need to decide on at the design stage is the foundation. If the soil is unstable, for example, swampy, we make the foundation slab. In almost all other cases, the optimal solution is a strip shallow foundation, which is associated with the minimum weight of the structure.

Substrate preparation - making the garage sustainable

Regardless of what the foundation will be, first we prepare the site: we apply the markings and remove the upper vegetative layer of the soil. If the foundation is tape, we dig trenches about half a meter deep around the perimeter. If the foundation is slab, we deepen the entire site by about 40 cm. The bottom of the trenches or site is covered with sand by 20 cm and carefully tamped.

Please note that it will take about a month to arrange the foundation, if you pour it yourself, as concrete gains strength within 28 days. To speed up the process, you can use ready-made foundation slabs or blocks. But in this case, the financial costs will increase. Therefore, you must decide for yourself: what is more important for you - the cost or the speed of construction.

To make the foundation completely on our own, we install formwork from boards, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB. An important element of the foundation is the reinforcing frame. For the strip foundation, we make a frame of reinforcement in the form of a rectangular parallelepiped. The diameter of the reinforcement should be 0.8 mm. For the slab foundation, the frame is made of a mesh with a cell of 200x200 mm and a reinforcement diameter of 0.8 mm. The mesh is laid in two layers at a distance of about 150 mm.

We fill the formwork with concrete of the M200 brand, tamp and level it. 28 days after pouring on top of the foundation (between the walls and the base), we lay a couple of layers of roofing material or other bituminous waterproofing material.

If you decide to make a strip foundation from ready-made blocks, we simply put them in prepared trenches and fasten them together with cement mortar. The slab base from ready-made slabs is laid in the same way. The only thing is that lifting equipment is required to do this work.

Erection of the box - we collect the "skeleton" and sheathe it

Now that the base is ready, you need to make the frame. We begin the work by laying the lower strapping around the perimeter of the foundation. To do this, we use a beam with a section of 100x100 mm, fix it to concrete with anchors. We connect the timber in the corners "half-tree" to each other and fasten it with self-tapping screws and corners.

Next, we install racks 100x100 mm in the corners of the structure and align vertically. We use screws and steel corners to attach the racks to the lower strapping. Additionally, we strengthen the racks with struts, which can be made from boards with a thickness of 20-30 mm. Immediately, we tie all the corner posts from above with a strapping made of 100x50 mm timber. After that, we install the racks along the walls with a step of 600 mm. Wall uprights can be made of boards with a minimum thickness of 30 mm and a width of 100 mm. We fix and strengthen them in the same way as the corner posts.

Then, from the side of the entrance, we install racks of 100x100 mm, to which the gate will be attached, and we connect them together with a beam of the same section. As a result, an opening will be formed. To strengthen it, you can install a metal frame around the perimeter from a corner or channel.

Before proceeding with the assembly of the frame, treat all the boards and beams with fire-bioprotective impregnation, which will increase the durability of the structure.

Next, we carry out the roof frame. To do this, we lay on the Mauerlat (the upper frame of the frame) rafters made of boards 30x100 mm. Since a single-pitched roof will be subject to a large snow load, the step between the rafters is no more than 40 mm. In order to securely fasten the rafters, we make cuts in the Mauerlat according to the thickness of the rafters. We nail a board 100 mm wide to the ends of the rafters along the perimeter.

Now that the frame is ready, you can immediately sheathe the walls. To make the structure warm, fill the space of the frame with mineral wool in the slabs. This insulation is cheaper than many other heat-insulating materials, but at the same time it is durable, fireproof and, most importantly, has a low thermal conductivity.

From the side of the room, we wrap the walls with a vapor barrier film. To make the vapor barrier hermetic, we make the joints of the film sheets with an overlap and glue it with double-sided adhesive tape. From the outside of the wall, in the same way, we cover it with a wind-moisture-proof membrane and qualitatively seal the joints.

So that there is a ventilation gap between the sheathing and the films, we attach a crate made of wooden slats with a thickness of at least 20 mm to the racks. We use ordinary screws to fix the rails. To save money, we will not pre-sheathe the outer walls with OSB slabs, but immediately install the siding. The only thing it is advisable to use is durable metal siding.

To fasten the siding along the perimeter of the walls, we fasten the starting plate with screws from the bottom, and we also install corner profiles at all corners. Then the siding panels are simply tucked into the corner profiles and fastened to the crate with screws. From the inside, the garage can be sheathed with any sheet material, such as plywood or OSB. You can fasten the sheathing to the crate with nails or screws.

When installing OSB boards or plywood, do not forget to provide expansion joints with a thickness of about 5 mm. These joints should be filled with sealant.

We lay the roof - we make the room dry and warm

Now we proceed to the installation of the roof. Since the rafters are already there, it remains to lay the roofing cake. We start by fixing the vapor barrier and lathing on the inside of the garage. We always place the battens across the rafters. From the outside, we put insulation between the rafters.

Then we lay a super-diffuse waterproofing membrane on the rafters. As well as on the walls, on the roof the membrane is additionally fixed with slats, which serve as a counter-lattice. On top of the counter-lattice, we lay boards with a thickness of 25-30 mm perpendicular to the rafters with a step of about 30 cm.

Now you need to install the roofing. An excellent solution for our construction is corrugated board - this is an inexpensive and durable material. We lay the sheets of corrugated board with a longitudinal and transverse overlap and fasten them to the crate with screws. We place the fasteners across the wave in a checkerboard pattern. You can use another type of roofing, for example, slate, which is also inexpensive. The principle of its installation resembles the laying of corrugated board, only instead of screws we use slate nails.

At this point, the garage is almost ready, now it remains to install the gate. To save money, you can search for a suitable used metal gate according to the advertisement. If not slab, at the end of the work we make the floor. For these purposes, you can lay paving slabs or pour a concrete screed.

This completes the work. If all actions are performed correctly, as a result, the garage will turn out to be not only strong and durable, but also warm. Moreover, its cost will turn out to be several times lower than a traditional brick garage.

For the construction of this type of building, it is not at all necessary to use expensive building materials. When building a garage with your own hands, slag or foam blocks are most often used. In this article, we will describe the stages of planning a garage construction.

Depth and type of foundation

When choosing it, the weight of the structure and the type of soil must be taken into account. When erecting walls from cinder blocks, it is enough to arrange a shallow strip or columnar base. It can be poured out of concrete or built from the same blocks.

But, if hollow structures are used for the construction of walls, then for arranging the foundation you will need full-bodied cinder blocks... The foundation of them is capable of withstanding a structure weighing up to 100 tons.

Trench preparation

Marking the foundation for the garage

Before starting work, you need to decide on the width and length of the structure. There are a lot of drawings and photos of a garage built by your own hands. For a passenger car of standard dimensions, it will be enough to erect a building measuring 3x6 m. In width, it is necessary to leave a margin of 70 cm for the convenience of passage and arrangement of racks. If it is planned to attach a workshop to the garage, then the length or width will increase accordingly. The acceptable height of such a structure is 2.3 m.

When choosing a place for a garage, be sure to check the communications plan so as not to damage the water and gas pipes. To mark the future trench, use metal rods or strong wooden stakes with pointed ends. They are placed at the corners and sides of the future foundation every 1.5-2 m. A strong cord is pulled tightly between them. To obtain an ideal rectangle, it should be extended from the corners as well - the diagonals should turn out to be equal in size and have the same intersection angles.

The trench is dug by hand - when using the technique, the soil will crumble. After excavating it to a depth of 70-80 cm (on clayey soils by 150 cm), the earth should be carefully compacted. For problem-free soils, there is no great need for this. On weak soils, this procedure is mandatory. With good compaction of sandy soil, sandy loam or loam, subsidence can be up to 0.5 m.

If an inspection pit is provided in the garage, a foundation pit is first prepared for it. Such a pit is strengthened with temporary formwork, and only then they begin to prepare a trench for the foundation.

Laying foundation blocks

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Types of strip foundations

Laying is done in a checkerboard pattern. so that each of the blocks of the next row falls on the seam of the previous row. To obtain a reliable structure, the vertical and horizontal rows are verified by the building level. The height of the foundation must be calculated in such a way that it rises above the surface by 0.7 m.

The laid out base must be reinforced with a plaster mesh. It is attached to a 2 cm thick cement mortar. To protect the base from moisture, it is covered with liquid bitumen. On top of it, a double layer of roofing material or other roll-up waterproofing is attached. After the foundation is completely ready, the space between it and the ground is covered with earth and compacted tightly.

For heaving soils and with a close location of groundwater, the use of a block foundation is undesirable. Indeed, when the soil moves in a horizontal direction, the masonry, and the cinder blocks themselves, can collapse.

Gate installation

They are installed even before the construction of the building begins. For the manufacture of the gate frame, a metal corner is used. An I-beam is laid on top so that it goes into the walls by 20 cm.

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Ready-made swing, metal gates

To firmly attach the door frame to it, it is necessary to weld metal 12-mm rods 40 cm long, which will later be laid in the seams of the walls. To do this, you need to accurately calculate at what distance you need to attach the rods.

After leveling the structure and checking the horizontal and vertical position, it is embedded in cement and temporarily fixed with wooden braces. Before installing the gate, be sure to check if there are any obstacles to opening in the form of buildings or trees.

Calculation of the required number of blocks

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First you need to know the perimeter of the walls. We need to add the length and width of the building and multiply their sum by 2. For a standard garage of 3x6 m, the perimeter will be (3 + 6) x 2 = 18 m.

Now you need to determine the area of the walls. Let's say their height is 2.3 m. We multiply the perimeter of the walls by the height of the building. The area will be 18 x 2.3 = 41.4 sq. m.

The standard size of the cinder block is 0.19 x 0.39 m. Let's multiply these numbers. Its side area will be 0.0741 sq. m. Now it remains to find out the number of blocks required for laying the walls of a garage measuring 3x6 m. The perimeter is 41.4 sq. m. m we divide by the area of one block 0.0741 sq. m. We get 558.7 pieces. Round the number up to 559. It is necessary to take cinder blocks with a margin of 5-10% for cutting and scrap. Add 56 more blocks to the resulting number 559. We get 615 pieces. Please note that this calculation is carried out without taking into account the solid blocks going to the construction of the foundation. For him, the calculation should be done separately.

Online calculators can also be used to calculate the required number of cinder blocks. For example, this one:

When erecting walls of heated rooms, cinder blocks, which can quickly absorb moisture, require additional cladding and insulation. Otherwise, in winter, the condensation formed at the junction of heat and cold, freezing, will quickly destroy the walls.

Walling

A building made of high-quality cinder blocks can serve for 50 years or more. You can lay out walls from them pretty quickly. But, since such blocks are quite heavy, you will need an assistant in the work.

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Construction of garage walls from cinder blocks

Before purchasing the blocks, be sure to check their quality. To do this, place a pair of randomly selected products on top of each other. There should be no gap between them.
Fine-grained slag products are more expensive, but they will also stand much longer. However, their thermal insulation properties will be lower
To fasten the cinder blocks, it is better to take not a standard cement mortar, but a special adhesive mixture... In this case, the seams will be thinner and stronger. When using a cement mortar, the proportions for mixing are standard: 3 to 1 (sand, cement). Frost resistance and strength of the solution can be increased by adding plasticizers to it
When using cement mortar, the thickness of the joints is 1.5 cm. When laying on glue, this parameter must be specified in the instructions.
Dilute the solution gradually after all, after setting, it will no longer be possible to use it. It should be enough for 1-1.5 hours of work. Keep in mind that 4 blocks will take you about a bucket of mortar
For the walls of an unheated garage, half a stone masonry is enough when blocks are stacked along rather than across a wall
Block laying should be started from the corners checking the vertical and horizontal rows of the building level. To do this, a string is pulled between the two extreme blocks, which will serve as a guide
Hollow blocks are placed only with holes down
To obtain a checkerboard layout, the next row begins with half a block.... In this case, the next row will move, and the cinder blocks of the first row will close the seams of the blocks of the previous row. In order not to engage in cutting, you can purchase ready-made corner cinder blocks
To strengthen the structure, it is better to use reinforcement(metal mesh). It is laid in the seams between the rows. The first row must be reinforced. The net is then laid in every 4th row. Window and door openings are also reinforced. The net is also laid in the last 2 rows

If you want to change the colors of the joints, add soot to the darkening solution, lime to lighten or blue copper sulfate to obtain a blue tint. Or use special supplements that you can buy at a hardware store.

Garage overlap

The cost of cinder blocks for the construction of walls is only 1/3 of the cost. Material investments will also be needed for arranging the roof, foundation, gates, decoration, etc. But still, a building made of blocks will cost less than that of any other material.

To cover the roof, I-beams are used, which are laid across the structure every 80 cm. Their length should be 25 cm longer than the total width of the garage. In places where they rest on the walls, the cinder blocks must be replaced with stronger ones. concrete blocks.

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Thick durable boards are attached to the bottom of the beams. Their thickness should be 4-5 cm. They are waterproofed with roofing felt with a small 10-centimeter approach to the walls.

To protect the foundation from rain and melting snow, 4 cm long canopies should be attached to the edges of the roof. You can insulate the roof with slag, which is poured over roofing material, foam or mineral wool. They are protected from moisture with a layer of 30 mm cement screed. In the future, it is treated with bitumen, and then covered with roofing material with an overlap of sheets of 10-15 cm. They also need to close the visors.

For the roof of the garage, you can use any material: from slate, metal profiles to tiles. It is necessary that it protrude beyond the walls by 20 cm. Then, during rain or melting snow, moisture will not flow down the walls.

When constructing a pitched roof, the walls should have a slope - for each meter of length, it should be about 50 mm.

Observation pit

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Observation pit

Its arrangement is possible only when the groundwater rises below the level of 2.5 m. If they approach a little higher, drainage can be arranged in the pit area. However, this will require additional labor and capital investment. With a high groundwater approach to the surface level, it is better to refuse the construction of a viewing hole - it will simply be flooded.

Standard sizes

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For a comfortable inspection and repair of a passenger car, the dimensions of the pit should be as follows:

length: to determine this parameter, 1 m¸ is added to the vehicle length, for example, (4.5 + 1) = 5.5 m
width, 200 mm less than the standard size of the car's track (distance between the wheels), in this case the car can easily enter the hole without risking falling down; you can clarify this data in the technical documentation
depth: for an adult to be able to stand in it, unbending, this parameter should be 1.85-2.0 m

The pit for the inspection pit must be made a little larger, so that there is room for concreting or laying out the walls with bricks. It is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the waterproofing and thermal insulation layers. If necessary, niches can be provided in the walls of the pit for placing tools.

Pit wall decoration with concrete

To protect against moisture, crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the prepared pit, and then sand. From above, such a pillow is covered with a layer of wet clay and compacted. Further, reinforcement is laid on the bottom, and it is concreted or laid out with bricks. In order for the concrete to set well, the hole must be left to dry for a week.

After the specified time has elapsed, waterproofing is placed on the bottom, then a layer of foam plastic (heat insulator), and it is again poured with a layer of concrete mortar of small thickness. 15-20 mm is enough.

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It is also advisable to coat the walls with clay, which is a natural waterproofing agent. A thick film or roofing material is attached on top. You can replace it with bitumen, liquid rubber or plastic plates. Next, a heat insulator is attached.

The thickness of the walls when poured with concrete is 15 cm. When installing the formwork, reinforcement in the form of a metal mesh or rods is laid in it.

The concrete solution is poured in stages of 0.3-0.4 m, followed by drying for several hours. At each stage of pouring, it is well pierced to remove voids.

When laying the lighting, the wires should be hidden in the corrugation. It is attached to the mesh with plastic ties before the concrete is poured. It is necessary to provide for natural or forced ventilation of the inspection pit.

You can protect the walls from shedding with a metal corner, laid along the perimeter at the top. It is advisable to make a durable metal or wooden cover to exclude the possibility of falling.

For descent into the pit, steps are equipped in it. Although you can use a regular ladder for these purposes.

Filling floors

Before starting pouring, the surface must be covered with a crushed stone pillow. The floors are leveled along the upper border of the foundation or slightly higher. The thickness of the concrete layer should be 10-20 cm.

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Finished base of the garage with a viewing hole

To make the floors even, when arranging a garage with your own hands, you first need to prepare beacons - metal or wooden slats installed on slaps of a thick solution. The distance between the slats should be slightly more than the length of the rule - a tool in the form of a long ruler used to level the mortar.

The horizontal alignment of the beacons is done using the building level. If necessary, a solution is reported under them or, on the contrary, it is pressed into the surface more strongly. After leveling the concrete, it must be covered with foil and left to dry for a week.

Wall decoration

Porous cinder blocks are able to reliably retain heat in a building. But at the same time this is also a disadvantage. Since porous cinder blocks quickly absorb water, the walls from it require additional finishing. They can be plastered or protected with a ventilated façade. Otherwise, when wet walls freeze, the material will begin to collapse.

Wall decoration must be done immediately after construction is completed. The best time for this is summer.

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Plastering garage walls from the inside

Since the plaster solution will not adhere well to cinder blocks, a reinforcing mesh is used for finishing:

it is fastened with small nails
it is better to pre-prime the walls, this will better strengthen the surface and increase its adhesion to the mortar
to level the walls, beacons made of wooden or metal battens are placed
plastering mortar is thrown with a spatula, and then leveled with a building rule along the lighthouses
the last stage - grouting the surface with a metal float

An inexpensive lime-clay mortar can be used as a substitute for standard wall plaster mortar. To do this, take 1 part of wet clay dough, 5 parts of sand and 1 part of lime.

Ventilation arrangement

If you do not want your car parts to rust quickly, be sure to take care of the ventilation of the garage. It is also required to remove exhaust gases that negatively affect human health.

For a small room, natural ventilation is sufficient. For this, holes are prepared in opposite walls: supply for fresh air and exhaust... The first is placed at a minimum height from the surface - 10-15 cm from the floor. The second exhaust hole is placed almost close to the ceiling, at a distance of 10-15 cm from it. The exhaust pipe is brought out above the roof to a height of 0.5 m.

When arranging ventilation in the garage, it is necessary to take into account that for a room of 15 sq. m, the diameter of the hood should be 225 mm. With an increase in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe room for each square meter, this parameter must be increased by 15 mm. If a pair of holes is prepared for the hood, then the diameter is accordingly halved.

The cross-section of the hood must be equal to or less than the cross-section of the supply ventilation... Otherwise, the rod may overturn. For the same reason, if you cover the supply air duct, be sure to reduce the draft in the hood as well.

Do not forget that when arranging a viewing hole in it, a separate ventilation is required!

Installation of shelves

It is difficult for a real motorist to do without storage places for tools. To equip the shelves in the garage, you can use any option for their location. They can be suspended, angular, and have different lengths and widths. Shelves can be positioned along one, two or even three walls.

If containers with liquids will be installed on the shelves, it is better to provide small sides at the bottom. Be sure to consider where you will store your massive items. Such shelves must be additionally reinforced. Otherwise, over time, they will sag, and then completely collapse. It is better to hang winter and summer tires closer to the ceiling so that it takes up a minimum of free space.

This video tells in detail about each of the stages of building a garage from foam blocks, as well as about the main subtleties and secrets of its construction.

Garage to Druzhbanu from Cinder Block in 2 Days

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