This article is aimed at those people who decided to insulate their home from the inside with foam. Next, I will try to highlight in detail all the nuances of this procedure so that you can do this work as efficiently and efficiently as possible.

Is it worth it to carry out internal foam insulation

Often newbies ask on the forums - is it possible to insulate the house from the inside with foam?

To be honest, I am generally opposed to wall insulation from the inside for the following reasons:

• this operation isolates the walls from the internal heating, as a result of which they cease to be heated. In some cases, this even leads to the appearance of cracks on the walls;

• the dew point is transferred to the side of the room, as a result of which moisture forms between the insulation and the wall. This also negatively affects the durability of the walls;
• the ceiling and ceiling are in contact with cold walls, as a result of which it serves as a cold bridge. True, this drawback manifests itself only if the floor is concrete, because concrete, as you know, has a high thermal conductivity;
• house insulation, although insignificant, still reduces the usable area inside the house. For small houses, for example, garden houses, this drawback can also be critical.

Therefore, most often the walls are insulated indoors, if it is not possible to perform this operation from the outside, or, for example, it turned out that the external thermal insulation is not effective enough.

As for the foam, this insulation is also not the best choice for internal thermal insulation for a number of reasons:

• expanded polystyrene is a fire hazardous material;

• in the event of a fire, the foam releases toxins, which leads to the poisoning of people inside the building;
• possesses zero vapor permeability, as a result of which, after insulation, the walls cease to "breathe". Therefore, housing needs high-quality thermal insulation.

A good alternative to foam is extruded polystyrene foam, which is often fireproof due to the presence of a fire retardant in the composition.

Therefore, I do not recommend insulating housing for permanent residence with foam plastic. But if you need to insulate a country house that is used from time to time, or a balcony, then in general, expanded polystyrene is a good option.

The fact is that for all its shortcomings, it also has some important advantages:

• low price - you can find polystyrene at a price of 1500-2000 rubles per cubic meter;
• excellent thermal insulation qualities - the thermal conductivity of expanded polystyrene is even lower than that of its competitor - mineral wool.

Insulation by frame of walls and ceilings

There are two ways to carry out foam insulation from the inside of the walls and ceiling:

• frame;
• wet.

First of all, we will consider the frame method of insulation. In my opinion, it is the most optimal, since it allows you to neutralize some of the shortcomings of internal thermal insulation.

This process includes four main steps:

Preparation of materials

So, to insulate a house with a frame method, you will need:

• foam - preferably with a low density (15kg / m3), since it is cheaper, and also has a lower thermal conductivity;
• antifungal agent;
• waterproofing film;
• wooden slats;
• parts for assembling the frame - metal profiles and suspensions, as when installing drywall;
• material for frame sheathing.

Wall and ceiling preparation

Before you insulate the walls with foam from the inside, you need to prepare them as follows:

1. first of all, free the surface of the walls from shelves, cabinets and other details that will interfere with work;
2. if there is an old finish on the walls that peels off and crumbles, it must be removed;

1. then treat the surface with an antifungal agent. To do this, you can use a paint roller or brush. You can find out the details of this work from the instructions on the package.

The preparation of the ceiling is carried out in the same way.

Insulation and installation of the frame

Now you can start thermal insulation of the walls.

The instruction for performing this operation looks like this:

1. to prevent moisture from accumulating between the insulation and the wall, a ventilation gap should be made. To do this, you need to fix the slats on the wall, placing them horizontally.

The thickness of the slats should be one and a half to two centimeters. As for the width, it should be such that you can subsequently attach suspensions to the crate.

The slats should form several belts with a step of half a meter, as shown in the diagram above. Also, make a horizontal gap of a few centimeters between the slats;

1. foam for insulating walls inside the house, although to a lesser extent than mineral wool, but still absorbs moisture. Therefore, I recommend protecting the material with a waterproofing film.
   To do this, fasten it tightly on the rails. You can use a stapler to fix the film on the crate.

I must say that when insulating the ceiling, the ventilation gap does not need to be performed, in addition, there is no need to use a waterproofing film.

1. after that, you need to mark the position of the profiles on the walls and ceiling using straight lines. To apply them, you can use a paint cord or a building level and crayon.
   Lines are applied in 60 cm increments. In this case, 10 cm must be retreated from the corner;

1. on the lines obtained, it is necessary to indicate the location of the suspensions at a distance of half a meter from each other;
2. now, according to the marking, the hangers should be installed. As a rule, they are fastened with dowel-nails. During installation, make sure that the suspension is located strictly perpendicular to the lines for the location of the profiles;

1. now you can insulate the wall and ceiling. To do this, you just need to pin the slab onto the suspensions, having previously made the cuts for them.
   To fix the slabs to the ceiling, you can use foam glue or dowels.... On the walls, as a rule, the insulation is kept simply on the suspensions, later it will be pressed down by the racks. However, you can temporarily fix the plates on the slats with self-tapping screws with wide washers;

1. after that, the frame is assembled. Beforehand, I recommend fixing the guide profiles on the ceiling and floor, as in the standard assembly of the frame for drywall. To keep the profiles on the same level, after installing the guide on the ceiling, draw a line on the floor using plumb lines;
2. then the racks are inserted into the guides and fixed in the hangers with self-tapping screws;

1. after that, along the perimeter of the ceiling, you need to install guides on the walls in a horizontal position. Further, profiles are inserted into these guides and fixed in suspensions on the ceiling.

Keep in mind that ceiling profiles can bend and therefore need to be leveled during installation. To do this, you can even pull the threads between the extreme profiles.

The frame can be made not only from metal profiles, but also from wooden beams. In this case, the insulation is inserted into the space between the posts.

This completes the insulation. Now the last stage remains - this is the frame sheathing. For these purposes, you can use drywall, lining, plastic or other materials.

I will not describe this procedure, since you can familiarize yourself with it from other articles on our portal.

Wet insulation

Now I will tell you how to insulate a house with polystyrene inside by gluing it, i.e. wet method. This technology also includes several steps:

Preparation of materials

First of all, I would like to note that it is advisable to use a denser foam plastic for wall and ceiling insulation using a wet method than for insulation using frame technology. The fact is that in this case, the material will not only insulate the walls and ceiling, but also perform a load-bearing function, as well as take on all shock loads. Therefore, the best option is polystyrene foam with a density of 25kg / m3.

In addition to insulation, you will also need:

• glue for expanded polystyrene, for example, Ceresit CT85. The same composition can be used for rough plastering of insulation.
• fiberglass mesh;
• primer;
• putty for walls and ceilings.

Insulation installation

We will omit the process of preparing the walls, as I have already told about it. The only thing I note is that the walls must be primed before installing the insulation using a brush or roller. Moreover, the primer is applied in two layers at intervals in time, so that the first layer has time to dry.

Styrofoam installation instructions look like this:

1. first of all, you need to prepare the glue. To do this, pour it into a bucket, fill it with water and mix thoroughly. The solution should turn out to be a doughy consistency;
2. then apply glue solution to the entire surface of the board, and then give it a relief with a notched trowel;

1. now attach the first plate to the wall. Begin mounting from the bottom of the corner.
   Press the plate against the wall, and adjust its position according to the level;
2. then, in the same way, install the stove near the opposite corner, and adjust to the level;

1. then pull a thread between the two plates so that the intermediate plates can be aligned with it. To do this, tie a thread to two studs, and then insert the studs into the ribs of the foam boards. As a result, the thread should run strictly along the ribs;
2. then glue all intermediate plates;

1. the second row should be started from half of the plate in order to displace the vertical seams. As a result, the insulation should be staggered.
   Further installation is carried out according to the same principle as pasting the first row. The only thing is that there are no vertical deviations of one row relative to the other. Thanks to this, the walls will turn out to be smooth;
2. by the same principle, you need to glue the insulation to the ceiling;
3. after the glue hardens, the foam must be additionally secured with dowels. Fasteners should fix the foam in the corners as well as in the center.

Thus, one plate requires 5-6 fasteners. To save dowels, they can be positioned at the joints of the slabs. Thus, one cap will fix several plates at once.

The process of mounting the fasteners itself is quite simple - you need to drill a hole to the required depth, then insert the "umbrella" itself and hammer a nail into it. The nail is driven in so that the cap is slightly submerged in the insulation.

This completes the installation of the thermal insulation material.

Preparing for rough finishing

Preparation for rough finishing is carried out as follows:

1. be sure to fill the existing gaps between the foam with glue foam or insulation scraps;
2. if there are differences at the joints, rub them with a special float;
3. all the grooves obtained after installing the fasteners must be filled with glue;

1. existing external corners must be protected from chipping and damage with perforated plaster corners... Glue them with glue and level them up.

Rough finish

Now all that remains is to do the rough finishing of the ceiling and walls with your own hands, which is carried out as follows:

1. first prepare the mesh reinforcement. It needs to be cut into strips according to the height of the room and the width of the ceiling.
   Please note that the canvases on the walls and ceiling should overlap each other by 7-10 centimeters. In addition, the mesh must be wrapped around the corners;
2. then prepare the glue and apply it with a notched trowel to an area equal to the size of one strip of the mesh;

1. then attach the mesh to the surface treated with glue, align it vertically (you can by eye), and draw a wide spatula over it from above. In the process of ironing the canvas with a spatula, the mesh will be completely covered with protruding glue. The result should be a flat and smooth surface;

1. when the adhesive is completely dry, it must be applied with a second layer about 3 mm thick. This will additionally protect the insulation from mechanical damage, as well as eliminate minor surface flaws;
2. after the glue dries, the walls and ceiling must be primed again;

1. at the end of the work, the walls and ceiling should be plastered. If the surface is smooth enough, use a thin layer of finishing filler.

If the level of drops exceeds a few millimeters, use a starter putty.

At this, the insulation of the ceiling and walls from the inside with foam is completed.

A few words about floor insulation

Polyfoam can be used to insulate not only the walls and ceiling, but also the floor.

Moreover, there are two technologies for its use for these purposes:

• dry - used for floors on logs;
• wet - allows you to insulate the concrete floor.

Floor insulation on logs

To insulate the floor on the logs, you need to prepare the following materials:

• foam - you can use low density plates, for example, 15kg / m3;
• waterproofing film;
• antiseptic for wood.

The work is carried out as follows:

1. if there is a flooring on the floor, it must be dismantled;

1. if there is no subfloor between the lags, it must be done. To do this, fix the cranial bars on the logs and lay slats on top of them;
2. treat all parts of the wooden structure with an antiseptic;
3. then cover the logs and the subfloor with a waterproofing film;
4. after that, fill the space between the lags with foam;

1. on top of the logs and foam, lay another layer of waterproofing;
2. at the end of the work, lay the boards on the logs according to the standard scheme.

Thermal insulation of concrete floors

To insulate a concrete floor with expanded polystyrene, prepare the following materials:

• Styrofoam - use the tightest grade for this purpose, i.e. PSB-S-35, as it has the greatest strength;
• waterproofing film;
• materials for filling the screed.

The insulation process looks like this:

1. first prepare the base - clean it of debris and dust. You also need to remove areas that have crumbled and contain a sharp surface that can break through the film;
2. then cover the floor with foil, be sure to wrap it at the corners. Glue the waterproofing joints with tape;
3. Lay foam on top of the waterproofing. At the same time, try so that there are no gaps between the plates;

1. then cover the insulation with another layer of waterproofing;
2. now you need to pour the screed over the film according to the standard scheme. The only thing I recommend is to reinforce it with fiber, since the mesh during installation can break the waterproofing.

This completes the insulation of the house.

Output

From this article, you learned about all the basic nuances of home insulation from the inside with polystyrene foam, so you can safely get down to work. I recommend watching the video in this article. If you have any questions, unsubscribe in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

Heating is the main utility cost for residents of the private sector. It is easy to reduce expenses by insulating the house with foam outside with your own hands. This material will not only save you from the cold in winter, but also keep the room cool in the summer. In addition, it will maintain the integrity of the walls of buildings. It is possible to do such work with your own hands, you just need to choose the right materials and not deviate from the technological map.

Choosing expanded polystyrene

Polyfoam is the simplest and most convenient material for facade insulation, it will not be difficult to decorate external walls with it. Manufacturers propose to use polystyrene foam in two types of plates for carrying out such work with their own hands:

• Foamed. It consists of plastic balls, filled with air by means of thermoforming. They are connected by pressing or non-pressing method. It can be of different density: from 11 to 35 kg / m3. Can be used as insulation for building facades.
• Extruded. In the manufacture, the extrusion technique is used - forcing the molten mass through the forming hole of a special apparatus (extruder) under the influence of high temperatures. The dense, fine-pored structure makes the material virtually waterproof. Therefore, thermal insulation of the basement, basement, blind area and foundation with its help does not require additional protection from moisture. For walls of a private house, they are used only with an ideal ventilation system.

Pros and cons of each type

What is the best material? Thermal insulation of walls with foam outside involves the use of specially designed slabs. The most suitable for do-it-yourself installation will be PSB-S M-25F facade expanded polystyrene. Its density is 25kg / m3. Higher density material can be purchased, but not lower. Warming of facades with lightweight foam is undesirable, although it is much cheaper, it loses in design indicators: water resistance, vapor permeability, heat protection, durability.

You can correctly determine the strength of the sheet visually: the smaller and denser the granules, the higher it is. The looseness of the structure is especially clearly visible on the cut. As for the extruded type, it is better to choose plates with L-shaped edges. Although they are more expensive, they prevent the emergence of "cold bridges", which reduce thermal conductivity and destroy the building.

In order not to be deceived and not to purchase low-quality material, pay attention to the presence of factory markings on the ends of the sheets, fire and sanitary-hygienic certificates, GOST indicators in the quality passport.

Preparing the building for facing work

What needs to be done before insulating the facade of the house with polystyrene foam correctly? The first step is to clean the walls of dirt and make them as even as possible. The permissible differences from the plane - concavity and convexity - should not exceed two centimeters, so that in case of an accidental impact, deformation of the sheet does not occur. If possible, paint from the wall should be completely eliminated, remove rusty spots. If there are metal parts, coat them with an anti-corrosion agent.

It is easy to check the readiness of the wall for cladding by sliding your palm over it. If small particles are shedding, you need to continue to clean the plane. If this does not help, you should prime the surface or apply a thin layer of putty with PVA glue. The primer is best applied with a brush, but if it is very thin, you can spray it.

Decorating the facade with your own hands using conventional foam sheets does not require preparation. As for the extruded ones, they need to be processed for better adhesion to the wall surface. You can use a drywall needle roller, a stiff metal brush, or a simple utility knife to cut small grooves. It is even easier to purchase corrugated plates, but this material is more expensive.

It is advisable to sew up external slopes with your own hands and install ebb tides before installing polystyrene foam plates on the facade of buildings. For the first, sheets are chosen with a thickness less than for the main work. The insulation should protrude about 2 cm beyond the slopes. Then the facade cladding will dock with it quickly and accurately.

It is not necessary to cut off the sheets of expanded polystyrene on the slopes flush with the wall of the facade. It is recommended to leave a ledge for better docking with the main plates when installing with your own hands.

We mount foam plates

The technology of wall insulation with foam outside is divided into stages, do-it-yourself installation must be performed sequentially.

Stage one - gluing plates

Finishing begins immediately upon completion of the sheathing of the slopes and ebb tides. You need to correctly plant the slabs on glue with your own hands like this:

It's important to know

When foam finishing is in progress, fire safety standards require the installation of special fire belts made of non-combustible mineral wool around window and door openings.

Stage two - fixing with dowels

Before strengthening the insulation, you need to wait until the glue hardens. Otherwise, the sheets at the edges may begin to move away from the wall surface. Then the following operations must be done correctly:

1. They improve the adhesion of the insulation to the wall using mushroom dowels. They are hammered into pre-drilled holes to a depth of at least five centimeters. This must be done so that the "head" of the dowel is flush with the surface of the plate. Professionals recommend placing five "fungi" on each edge of the sheet and one in the center.
2. Nails are driven into the "heads" of the dowels. If the heads stick out a little, you need to cut them with nippers.
3. If there are gaps in the seams, you need to fill them with strips of expanded polystyrene. Small cracks can be filled with a special compound. Protruding joints are smoothed with a special grater or cut with a clerical knife.
4. At the end of this stage, the dowel caps and joints are made with a special compound.

Stage three - installing the grid

Carrying out the insulation of the facade with foam plastic with your own hands, it is imperative to increase the mechanical strength of the structure using a special facade mesh based on fiberglass. The mesh for wall reinforcement must be dense and rigid, and soft for corners, slopes and decorative parts. It is recommended to reinforce all corner elements of the house with perforated aluminum corners.

After that, glue is applied to the surface of the slabs in a continuous layer of about two to three millimeters thick. The reinforcing material is fixed at the top, then rolled down and immersed in the adhesive with a spatula. Each canvas should run over the adjacent one by about five centimeters, and at the corners you need to bend at least fifteen centimeters. The base is reinforced in two layers.

On top of the canvas, apply another layer of glue and gently smooth the surface. As a result, the mesh should show only slightly through the adhesive.

The final stages include priming and subsequent finishing. It is correct to carry them out no less than two days after the installation of the facade mesh. You can decorate the walls with a putty for painting or special plaster. There are various plastering techniques such as a fur coat or bark beetle.

You should also know that in addition to the wet facade technology, there are also ventilated facades, but it is not recommended to use polystyrene in structures of this type, since air ascending flows can contribute to the flare-up of polystyrene foam.

Do-it-yourself wall insulation with foam plastic is very widespread technology, since this is a fairly simple process using materials that are quite affordable.

Polyfoam (expanded polystyrene), due to its physical and operational characteristics, is very popular for the processes of thermal insulation of facades and balconies. The only thing is that it is not recommended to do interior wall decoration with this material.

Warming is carried out in different ways:

- fixing the panels of the material to the walls using glue, followed by finishing it with plaster or brickwork;

- the use of various thermal panels with an insulating base made of expanded polystyrene and an external coating with decorative tiles imitating brick or masonry, or even a monolithic concrete surface.

- insulation with extruded foam is also carried out during the construction of a building, according to the technology of fixed formwork, when concrete mortar is poured into special blocks from the insulation.

Benefits of using expanded polystyrene

Why is foam plastic or facing materials based on it most often chosen for insulation? This is due to its specific properties:

• The material is smooth and dense enough. These qualities facilitate and speed up the installation process, and also make the walls almost perfectly flat.
• The lightness of the material allows you to install it yourself. It can be easily lifted to any height without using special equipment, and it adheres well to the wall surface.
• Low thermal conductivity retains heat well inside the room, and high noise absorption will keep the house quiet.
• The water resistance of the material will help protect the walls from the effects of precipitation and high humidity.
• The insulation does not require labor-intensive preparatory work for its installation, such as the construction of the lathing (although this option is also possible if the walls are not even).
• And one more advantage of this material over other heaters is its affordable price.

Do-it-yourself wall insulation with foam plastic - from start to finish

In order for the work to go quickly and without hesitation, one cannot do without preparatory measures, which include determining the amount of the required material, purchasing it, as well as purchasing or preparing the necessary tools.

Further ide T thorough preparation of the surface of the walls, and only then you can proceed to installation expanded polystyrene panels.

Tools and materials

• The first thing to do is to calculate the thermal insulation material. For this, the total area of ​​the walls of the house to be insulated is calculated. A heat engineering calculation will help you choose the thickness of the foam, which is based on determining the dew point displacement. If the calculation turns out to be too thick, then the foam can be laid in two layers. The second layer of material is glued only after the first is completely dry. However, a wide variety of thicknesses of this material on sale (flesh up to 200 mm) usually makes it possible to get by with the installation of insulation in one layer.

* * * * *

A useful application - a calculator for self-calculation of the required thickness of insulation

Typically, heat engineering calculations are carried out by specialists, however, it is possible to perform such calculations, with a sufficient level of accuracy, and independently. The calculator below will help us with this.

The calculation principle boils down to the fact that in order to ensure comfortable living conditions, the building structure of a house (in this case, a wall) must have a certain resistance to heat transfer in order to prevent heat leakage.

For each of the regions, the current SNiP established the normalized values ​​of this indicator. It makes no sense to present all tables in this publication - it is better to use a schematic map, according to which this indicator can be determined with a high degree of accuracy for your region of residence. Please note - the values ​​for different building structures differ, and in this case we are interested in the indicators for the walls - they are indicated with purple numbers:

This required resistance value is the sum of the analogous indicators of all layers of the wall structure. This means that if the thickness of the capital wall and the material of its manufacture are known (for which it is easy to find the tabular value of the thermal conductivity coefficient), then it is possible to determine what "shortage" of thermal resistance the thermal insulation layer should compensate. And from here, having the value of the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the foam, it is already easy to calculate the thickness of the required layer.

The calculator already contains the values ​​of the thermal conductivity coefficients of both the foam and the main building materials used for the construction of walls. This means that it will only be necessary to indicate the material itself and the measured wall thickness.

In addition, it is possible (although not so necessary) to take into account the thermal resistance of the layer of the interior wall decoration. By the way, many finishing materials have very impressive thermal insulation performance. If the finish is not taken into account, then the default thickness of the finishing layer, equal to zero, is simply left.

The final value of the insulation thickness will be given in millimeters. It is easy to bring it to the nearest (upward) standard thickness of foam panels.

Good external insulation significantly reduces heating costs as well as home maintenance costs. However, insulating a house in this way will only be effective if it is well done. Before starting repair work, you should study well the question of how to insulate the walls from the outside. Then the funds invested in work and materials will be effectively used and will quickly return in the form of savings on heating.

Insulating walls with expanded polystyrene (one of the types of polystyrene foam) is not a very difficult task, but you must follow certain rules. Mistakes made in the implementation of insulation can turn out to be less effective, and in some cases can lead to serious damage to the facade. In order to properly insulate walls, it is important to follow certain rules and avoid common mistakes. Below are the 11 most common rules and mistakes when insulating a building with polystyrene foam.

1. Proper wall surface preparation

The surface on which the polystyrene boards will be placed must be properly reinforced, stable, even and dry. It should be free of contaminants that reduce adhesion, such as:

• dirt;
• adhesive coatings;
• formwork oil;
• any kind of pollution caused by chemical or biological agents.

The base must be even - small unequalities (up to 2 cm) are leveled with a leveling mortar. In case of large irregularities (more than 2 cm), you must use different thicknesses of the expanded polystyrene boards, so that they form one plane.

Substrate errors include:

• incorrect assessment of the state of the substrate;
• lack of primer;
• poor assessment of the geometry of the walls (evenness, deviation from the vertical).

1. Foam sticking, not enough adhesive

The adhesive should be applied both along the edge of the board and on its surface. If the glue is applied only along the edge, or only at one point, the plate will bend, and the edges of the plates will be visible on the finished facade.

Correct Application of Foam Adhesive:

a) along the periphery and points - in this case, the glue should be applied in the form of stripes along the edge of the slabs with a width of 4-6 cm. On the rest of the surface, the glue is applied pointwise, the dots will be from 3 to 8. The total area of ​​the glue should cover 40% of the white panels and 60% graphite plates.

b) the comb method, which is used only in the case of flat, plastered surfaces. The adhesive is applied with a notched trowel to the entire surface of the board.

Note: The adhesive is applied to the surface of the polystyrene plate, and never applied to the substrate.

The adhesive on each sheet should be placed around the edge and on the surface.

1. Adhesive selection

Poor choice of glue or poor quality mortar can lead to the foam plates coming off, along with other layers of the facade. As a rule, it is recommended to use a complete insulation system from the manufacturer - such a system contains all the necessary elements, guaranteed quality and good coordination of the elements with each other.

1. Distribution of panels on the wall

It is important that the foam plates are offset by half their length from bottom to top, starting at the corner of the wall.

It is also important to correctly position the slabs in the corners. If this is done incorrectly, then thermal bridges arise at the connection of the plates, through which heat losses occur.

In addition, polystyrene panels should also be stacked neatly and tightly side by side. The connections must not form straight lines.

1. Filling the gaps between the slabs

The gaps between the polystyrene foam boards should not be filled with an adhesive solution (this creates thermal bridges). Use polyurethane foam to fill gaps up to 4 mm wide.

1. Reinforcement with dowels

Insufficient depth dowels will cause problems. If they are installed too deep, they will destroy the structure of the insulation board. If they are installed too shallow, they can create a bulge that will be visible on the surface of the wall.

1. Starter plinth and mesh

Without starting skirting and mesh, the insulation will be exposed to the weather and rodents such as mice, which, when seeking shelter for the winter, often bite into the bottom layer of the insulation and damage it.

1. Uneven surfaces of the foam panel

The surface of the slabs must be even after placing them. If there are irregularities, the surface must be sanded to eliminate the irregularities. Otherwise, they will also appear on the facade. Unfortunately, sanding polystyrene is a laborious and time-consuming process, which is why it is often forgotten.

1. Arrangement of slabs around door and window openings

In the corners of window and door openings, there should be no joints between the slabs. In addition, you should use additional diagonal mesh strips in these areas.

Laying scheme in the corners of window and door openings

The corners of the window and door openings must fit into the central part of the polystyrene plate.

1. Weather conditions and performance of work in unsuitable weather

Often installers do not take weather conditions into account during repairs. It is important that the insulation work is carried out in appropriate weather - the temperature is not lower than 5 ° С and not higher than 25 ° С. Of course, there should be no precipitation at the time of insulation. This is important, not for comfortable work, but for the properties of materials, which retain their qualities only under certain conditions. For example, at higher temperatures, the adhesive will dry quickly before it can bond the foam well to the backing.

1. Lack of sunscreen materials

The use of solar shading is especially important when installing gray foam. It heats up quickly under the influence of the sun, and the result can be gaps between the boards and their flaking from the substrate.

How to properly insulate a house - video

Reviews

You can leave feedback on the insulation of the walls of the house with foam plastic in the comments.

Prepare the sleigh in the summer ... This proverb perfectly reflects the fact that it is never too late to think about insulating a house, or rather, it is better in advance.

According to reviews, among the types of insulation, both private houses, summer cottages and cottages, and multi-storey (apartment) buildings, outdoor insulation is in the lead. And among the materials, the undisputed favorite is polystyrene.

We propose to understand what is the reason for the high efficiency of wall insulation with foam from the outside.

The advantages of outdoor insulation

• First and foremost, the dew point is displaced outside the wall (see photo). Why is this good? The fact that the house will always have a dry outer wall. The problem with its freezing will disappear by itself. In addition, moisture, without accumulating in the wall, will not destroy it. This will allow the supporting structure to "age" an order of magnitude slower.

• Second, the wall will accumulate heat. Thus, after airing the apartment in winter, it will quickly return to normal temperature. After all, the walls will give some of the accumulated heat back to the room, and not to the street.

• Third, the work can be done at any time. Their implementation is not fraught with long and expensive internal repairs, and the arrangement of additional ventilation.

Benefits of Styrofoam

• the smallest thermal conductivity among well-known modern heaters;
• low material cost;
• low cost of labor of involved professionals;
• the ability to insulate yourself with your own hands;
• ease of installation of foam and much more.

The technology of wall insulation with foam plastic is quite simple. But to do the job efficiently, you can only know some of the nuances and features.

Let's consider step by step how to insulate the wall from the outside with foam, and what pitfalls can be encountered at each of the stages.

Instructions for wall insulation with foam outside

Stage 1 - material selection

Insulation of the outer wall with foam is a multi-layer construction device. Such a cake gives additional properties to insulation, in the form of strength and aesthetics. And also, it allows you to protect the material from the destructive effects of the external environment.

For external insulation, it is better to choose PSB-S-25 foam.

Nuance: This choice is due to two factors - strength and thermal insulation properties. Of course, a material with a density of 15 will retain heat better. Because there is more air in it. But, PSB-S-15 foam is more fragile.

Disadvantages of PSB-S-15 foam

(when used in external insulation)

• crumbles strongly during work;
• difficult to cut evenly;
• the sheet is almost impossible to rub with a grater;
• plaster does not fit well;
• the plastered wall surface is easy to push through.

The thickness of the foam sheet depends on:

1. the desired effect;
2. region (the temperature in the cold month, the strength and direction of the wind are taken into account);
3. material from which the wall is made.

Nuance: the insulation of a brick wall from the outside with foam plastic puts forward even more requirements for the accuracy of calculating the thickness of the sheet. Because a thin layer, will lead to the fact that the dew point does not shift towards the foam, but remains in the wall. Then, the moisture that will collect in the brick will increase the rate of its destruction. And if the foam layer is too thin, then in winter the moisture will turn into ice. As a result, bubbles form on the wall, and the sheet will simply vomit.

Advice: if the required sheet thickness is 100 mm, it is better to buy two 50 mm each. and mount them with an overlap. This will eliminate cold bridges at the junction of the sheets.

Material for external wall insulation with foam plastic

• sheets (plates) of polystyrene;
• start profile;
• construction glue;
• dowels with a wide head (fungi, umbrellas).

Tip: If you use 50 mm thick foam, then for a concrete base the length of the dowel should be at least 90 mm, for a brick one - at least 120 mm. The dowel should enter the wall by at least 50 mm.

• perforated corner with reinforcing mesh;
• polymer reinforcing mesh;
• profile for slopes;
• plaster;
• paint for facade works.

Stage 2 - surface preparation

The wall is examined for defects (cracks, delamination, biological formations - moss, fungus). The protruding parts in the future will be sheathed with foam, and those that are poorly fixed will go astray. If old plaster leaves (peels off) from the wall, it must also be removed.

Sometimes, there is moss on the walls - it needs to be scraped off. Paint, if any, is also removed. And any other layer with zero vapor permeability.

If there are deep cracks on the wall, they need to be repaired. To do this, they need to be expanded. Prime the resulting V-channel. Then close up. Suitable for embedding are sand-cement mortar, foam glue or construction foam.

Wall Cracks

The prepared wall surface is primed.

Priming walls For priming, use a deep penetrating universal primer. This will protect the wall from fungus and other biological activity, and will also increase the adhesion of the surface.

Tip: The suitability of the surface can be checked as follows. A block of polystyrene with a size of 10x10x10 mm is glued to the wall with an adhesive solution. After three days, they tear it off. If the block comes off completely, then the wall is not suitable and requires further cleaning. If the block breaks, but holds, you can get to work.

Is it possible to insulate the walls of a wooden house with foam plastic?

It is better not to insulate wooden walls with foam outside. This is due to the fact that the wood has a natural moisture content. In order for it to be able to release moisture into the external environment, a heater is needed with a porous structure. Mineral wool would be ideal in this case.

From a practical point of view, insulation of wooden walls with foam is possible. Provided that there are no serious cracks in the tree. Otherwise, before starting work, you need to close them up with natural insulation - moss, felt or a special acrylic sealant, which allows you to close up even the smallest defects and inter-crown seams. In addition, the installation of polystyrene is carried out only using the frame method.

Thermal insulation of wooden walls outside with foam - pros and cons

Stage 3 - marking

In this case, the markup does not mean that you need to apply the drawing to the entire wall. Such a mesh will only be confusing because the foam sheet has a tolerance of 10 mm. by 1 lm

But, it is simply necessary to measure the horizontal and vertical lines. Because it is not always possible to be equal in angle, tk. the wall may have slight deviations.

Stage 4 - installation of foam on the wall and facade

For beginners, start with the least visible wall, this will be your training ground.

The installation of foam on the wall begins with the installation of the starting profile. Its width is equal to the thickness of the foam sheet. Sometimes the profile UW-50 or 100 is used for these purposes. These are the most popular sheet sizes for insulation.

Nuance: It is better to use a special starting (base) profile, because there is a perforation in it, which allows the fastener to securely fix the profile, and at the same time allows its movement due to thermal expansion.

The starting profile is mounted according to the markings made earlier. Its use allows the first row of sheets to be laid absolutely evenly. In addition, there is a popular belief that a metal starting profile will protect the sheet from rodents.

To level the thermal expansion of the metal, a gap of about 5 mm must be left between adjacent profiles.

Fastening a profile for foam insulation

The arrangement of the corner is shown in the photo

Corner device for foam insulation

Styrofoam fixing methods

The foam mounting technology has several modifications. To fix the sheet on the wall, you can choose one of three options:

• apply glue to the edge of the sheet and make several sculpting over the area of ​​the sheet. This method is suitable for an uneven wall;

Method of attaching foam to an uneven wall

• Apply the adhesive with a notched trowel over the entire sheet. Option for a relatively flat wall;

Method for attaching foam to a flat wall

• apply special glue from a balloon. This glue is similar to construction foam. Moreover, it is much easier to work with it than with an adhesive solution. Plus, it does not need to be kneaded, it firmly attaches the sheet to the wall.

Fastening the foam to the glue from the balloon

The second row of sheets is stacked offset as shown below. This arrangement makes the installation more reliable and reduces the likelihood of cracks.

Foam fixing scheme with offset

So all the rows up to the last one fit in order.

Tip: In order for the glue to set completely, the wall covered with foam must stand 3-4 days. If you carry out foam insulation with your own hands, then by the end of the work the first section usually has time to withstand the required time.

Particular attention should be paid to finishing the slopes, because it is also a source of heat loss. The finishing process in the photo.

The device of slopes for insulation with foam

After installing the foam, the window sill will have to be replaced.

In order to avoid heat loss in the places where the insulation is adjacent to the frame of a metal-plastic window or door, you need to install a special window profile. Due to the fact that the profile has a self-adhesive strip, it can be easily installed on the window frame. Installation process in the photo.

Installation of a window profile for foam insulation

The installation of the profile guarantees the absence of deformations and a complete appearance.

Stage 5 - additional fixing of foam to the wall

Dowels umbrellas (fungi) for attaching the foam Special plastic dowels, umbrellas (fungus) for attaching the foam, which do not "fall" into the sheet, but securely fix it, can provide reliable fixation.

There are two ways to mount the "umbrellas", as shown in the figure.

The first option is suitable for smooth joints. If there are significant gaps between the sheets, then you need to use the second option.

Nuance: The first option will save the dowel, but it takes time to fit the sheets to size.

Fixed dowel umbrella When installing the dowel, make sure that it is slightly recessed into the sheet.

It is worth noting that in the classic version, the umbrella is mounted as shown in the photo. However, since such installation takes a lot of time, and the plastic of the dowel does not create cold bridges, even experienced builders neglect this rule.

Method of fixing the foam with "drowning" the head of the dowel-umbrella

The gaps formed at the junction of two sheets are sealed with foam. If the gap is more than 20 mm wide, the gap is sealed with a piece of foam. For greater reliability, the back side of the trim is smeared with glue or foam.

Sealing the shelves at the joints of the foam

After sealing all the cracks, they begin to trim the protruding parts of the sheet, which meet in the corners.

Foam grater

Tip: If a wall finished with polystyrene has stood for more than 2 weeks without finishing, it will have to be completely sanded, because ultraviolet light has already damaged the surface layer of the insulation.

Stage 6 - finishing of corners and slopes with foam

Perforated corner with reinforcing mesh House corners or slopes need additional protection against impacts. In addition, it is difficult to provide the required mesh overlap here. And it can be difficult to trim perfectly styrofoam. Therefore, a special perforated corner with a reinforcing mesh is provided for them.

It is attached to glue and pressed tightly with a special angled spatula to the outer or inner corner of the house, or a slope.

The process of installing foam at the corners is shown in the photo. Inside the slope, as already mentioned, a special corner is used.

The process of installing foam on corners and slopes

At this stage, the house is ready for further finishing.

Stage 7 - facade plastering on polystyrene

External wall insulation with foam plastic helps to protect the house from heat loss. But what will take care of the protection of the insulation itself? Finishing (front, decorative) plaster, siding, lining or any other finishing material. In our example, this is plaster.

It is based on a polymer reinforced mesh for foam plastic with a cell of 3x3, 4x4, 5x5. The density of the mesh is in the range of 140-160 g / m2. The purpose of the mesh is to ensure the integrity of the wall surface and prevent cracking.

Tip: do not be tempted by the low cost of the mesh - in this case, the savings are irrelevant. A high-quality mesh is covered with a special solution that protects it from the influence of alkalis and acids, which are contained in adhesive solutions. Poor-quality mesh "dissolve" in the glue.

How to attach the mesh to the foam?

Fastening the mesh to polystyrene-1 The mesh is fixed to glue. The one on which the foam was attached. The mesh has a special marking. The red bar indicates how much overlap should be done. This is approximately 100 mm.

If there is no marking, try to maintain an even overlap along all the length of the strip.

Fastening the mesh to polystyrene-2

The procedure for attaching the mesh: a strip of mesh is cut to the required length, plus 250-200 mm. Glue is applied to the top of the wall. The area of ​​the adhesive strip is approximately 100x10 mm. The mesh is laid on it and pressed. Roughly speaking, the mesh should sink in the glue.

Trimming excess mesh

Tip: make sure that the mesh does not gather in an accordion. Smooth it out with a spatula. But, do not overdo it, otherwise you will pull the entire strip down. At the bottom, the excess mesh is trimmed off.

In order for the filler to cover the mesh over the entire surface of the wall, it must be applied in two layers. One thick layer will be covered with microcracks. This will not bring harm, but visually the defect will be noticeable. Please note that the previous layer must dry completely.

Advice: do not work with putty in windy weather. Otherwise, the layer will dry out quickly, which will also lead to the appearance of microcracks.

Stage 8 - priming and finishing

As the name of the stage suggests, the main work here is related to the priming of the wall surface. And then proceed to applying the finishing filler and / or painting.

More visual information on how to insulate the outer wall with foam contains video instructions

Ignoring the rules for installing foam when performing external wall insulation can lead to unpleasant consequences.

Consequences of poor-quality foam installation

Conclusion

We hope that this instruction will allow you to insulate the outer wall with polystyrene foam efficiently and without problems.

Tags: Wall Insulation Foam

Do you want to get cozy and warm accommodation, the temperature in which does not depend on the vagaries of the weather? Then you should insulate the walls from the outside with foam. Not sure where to start and how to get started? In this case, study this article - it will give you answers to your questions.

Insulation of walls from the outside with foam

Polyfoam, its advantages and disadvantages

First, let's get acquainted with the material that will be discussed in the article. Polyfoam is a polymer insulation produced in the form of white plates. The material has a pronounced granular structure, and each individual grain contains many voids filled with gas. It is their presence that gives the foam excellent thermal insulation qualities. You can familiarize yourself with other material properties from the table.

Styrofoam plates

Table. Polyfoam - the main characteristics.

Important! When buying polystyrene, pay attention to the fact that it has flame retardant additives, and the pores in the grains contain incombustible carbon dioxide.

Insulation of the facade with foam

The advantages of foam include:

• low cost;
• good thermal insulation qualities;
• low weight;
• ease of processing and installation;
• unattractiveness to bacteria and fungus;
• high durability.

As for the disadvantages of foam, there are two of them. The first is the flammability of the material. The second is low vapor permeability, which, in the event of an error in design or installation of insulation, can lead to the appearance of mold on the main wall.

Styrofoam as insulation

The main task performed by insulation is to move the dew point outward. Consider three options for buildings.

1. In the first case, there is only a wall without any insulation. The dew point is located inside the material, there is a significant temperature difference between its outer and inner sides. As a result, a lot of heat escapes through the wall, condensation forms in the house, and the service life of the material drops significantly due to dampness.
2. In the second case, the insulation is located from the inside. The dew point shifts to the area between it and the wall. Heat loss is significantly reduced, but dampness remains. There is also a risk of mold between the insulation and the wall.
3. In the third case, the insulation is located outside, the dew point is shifted behind the wall of the house. The latter is now not subject to dampness and does not lose heat.

Dew point location

Thermal insulation of external walls with foam. All components of the system are highlighted and signed

Preparation of external walls for insulation

Construction work related to the insulation of the facade of the house with polystyrene foam begins with the preparation of the walls. They need to be cleaned, leveled, primed, etc. In more detail, all these steps are described in the step-by-step instructions below.

Step 1. Use scaffolding to work at heights greater than human height. You can make them yourself from the beams and boards available on the site, but it is safer to use factory-made products.

Disassembled scaffolding

Assembly of factory scaffolding

The distance from the walls to the scaffolding should be equal to the thickness of the insulation layer (in this case, it is 20 cm) plus another 30-40 cm for the workspace

When erecting scaffolding, be sure to check the correctness of their position vertically and horizontally using a level

Step 2. Examine the walls for various defects. Seal cracks and holes, chisel off mortar build-ups. Prepare holes for water and gas pipelines and other utilities.

Removal of mortar build-up

Step 3. Primer deeply penetrate the wall. Since the house in the example is composed of aerated concrete blocks, two layers will be required. For the first time, the primer must be diluted by adding water from one third to one half of the total volume.

First, the primer must be diluted with water.

Wall treatment with deep penetration primer

Important! Priming in two layers is necessary not only for aerated concrete, but also for other porous materials such as foam blocks and sand-lime bricks.

Step 4. Apply a second coat of primer, but not diluted with water.

Applying a second coat of primer

Wall insulation outside with foam - step by step instructions

After completing the preparation, proceed with the installation of expanded polystyrene boards. In this case, their fastening on the wall will be combined - both glue and dowels with "umbrellas" are used.

The process itself will include:

• laying polystyrene foam for insulation on ordinary walls of the house;
• on window and doorways;
• at the corners;
• to the space under the roof of the cottage.

For all processes from this list, separate step-by-step instructions have been compiled, which can be found in the subsections of the article presented below.

Wall insulation outside with foam - step by step instructions

Working with regular walls

Let's start insulating the house from the outside with polystyrene foam. Let's start with a relatively simple one - installing the first row of expanded polystyrene boards and laying them on ordinary walls.

Step 1. Measure how flat the walls of the house you are insulating are, identify the presence of differences in thickness. To do this, use either a tensioned thread or a laser level.

The evenness of the walls is checked

Step 2. Set a mark at the bottom of the wall and draw a line from it along which the first row of polystyrene foam boards will be laid.

A mark is set at the bottom

A line is drawn along which the first row will be laid

Important! In this case, when insulating the walls from the outside, the foam is laid directly on the foundation - it is even enough for this. In other situations, install a special aluminum support profile before installing the EPS boards.

Step 3. Mix the glue for installing the polystyrene foam insulation. To do this, dilute the dry mixture in water. Select proportions based on the instructions printed on the adhesive packaging. Stir the solution using a mixer or drill with a suitable attachment, working at low speed.

Water is poured first

Then the dry mixture is added

Step 4. Prepare EPS boards for the first row of insulation. In this case, a cutout is created in each of them, as in the diagram below. Carry out cutting of expanded polystyrene plates using a special table with a red-hot nichrome thread. If such equipment is not available, use a fine-toothed hacksaw.

The block from the first row of foam insulation is indicated by a red arrow

Cutting foam with hot nichrome thread

Step 5. Apply adhesive solution to the first block. To begin with, make a thin strip around the perimeter, pressing the trowel into the expanded polystyrene. Then add more mortar, bringing the layer thickness to 25-30 mm. In the center of the block, apply several glue points, their number depends on the area of ​​the insulation element.

How to apply adhesive solution

Applying the first thin layer of glue around the block

Application of a second layer, more voluminous. In the process of working with it, be careful - the glue should not get on the ends of the foam block

Glue points in the center of the block are indicated by arrows

Step 6. Carry out a test installation of the styrofoam block. The purpose of the event is to find out what proportion of the total area is occupied by glue. To do this, lean the block against the wall and then set it back. Depending on the thickness of the insulation layer, the adhesive contact area should be 40-60% of the total.

Test laying of insulation

Step 7. On paper or directly on the wall, prepare the marks along which the styrofoam blocks will be exposed. Lay the slabs according to the same principle as brickwork - the top row is shifted to the side relative to the bottom so that the vertical seams do not coincide. The permissible distance is from 15 cm, otherwise the seams will become "cold bridges". You can familiarize yourself with the layout of the foam blocks in the images below.

Layout of foam blocks

The same, but the distances are indicated

Step 8. Proceed with laying the first block - apply the adhesive on it as shown earlier, lean against the marked place and lean back. Then align the position of the product. This will help you with a thread stretched along the upper edge of the first row of blocks and a regular building level.

Laying the first block

Align the first block

Important! Use small pieces of foam to support the first row of blocks.

A piece of foam as a lining

Step 9. Following the same principle as in the previous step, lay the second, third and subsequent blocks of the first row.

Laying subsequent blocks of the first row

Step 10. Then, lay the remaining rows of foam insulation. You can read about how to do this on corners and openings in the following subsections of the article. Dock the blocks tightly to each other, fill the gaps with expanded polystyrene glue, polyurethane foam or thin pieces of material.

Filling the gaps

Step 11. After the glue or polyurethane foam, with which you filled the joints between the blocks, has dried, cut off the excess with a construction knife.

Removing excess adhesive

Step 12. Determine with the help of the rule how even the layer of insulation turned out to be. Grind the protruding areas with a special float.

Grinding protruding areas

Insulation of corners

Installation of insulation at the corners is carried out according to the following scheme - from one of the sides the block extends beyond the boundary of the wall at a distance equal to the thickness of the block installed on the second side. On the next row, the order of arrangement of foam insulation elements changes to the strictly opposite. By a similar principle, the blocks are installed on the inner corners. Check out the images below for a better idea.

The location of the block on one side of the corner with an exit beyond the boundary of the wall

Installing the block on the other side end-to-end with what goes beyond the wall. The excess is cut off with a saw

First block of the second row

Subsequent blocks

Installing foam blocks on the second row of the corner - the sides change

Diagram for applying glue to the corner block. The part that goes beyond the border of the wall must remain clean - the solution cannot be applied to it

Layout of polystyrene foam boards at inner corners

Now let's look at how the foam blocks are actually installed on the corners of the building.

Step 1. Mark one of the foam blocks. Select the part that will go beyond the edge of the wall at the corner and the part that will be glued to the surface.

Insulation slab marking

Another photo of the process

Step 2. On the part of the block that is glued to the wall at the corner, apply the previously mixed solution. Perform this operation carefully - the glue should not get on another part of the product, which you previously separated using the markings.

Applying mortar to the part of the block that is glued to the wall at the corner

Solution applied

Step 3. Lean the block against the wall to allow the adhesive to adhere to the surface. Align horizontally and vertically, making sure to use a building level.

The block is attached to the wall

Block alignment

Step 4. Measure how long you need the block to fit on the other side of the corner. Cut off any excess with a fine-toothed hacksaw.

Cutting line

Cropping a block

Step 5. Apply glue to the back of the Styrofoam and install the unit on the other side of the corner. Dock it firmly with the product you installed a few operations ago.

Installing the unit

Step 6. Cut off the protruding part of the first block with a hacksaw. At the end, you should have a right angle without any defects. If there is a gap between the blocks, then cover it with special foam glue or polyurethane foam. Following the same principle as described in this manual, work with the rest of the outer and inner corners of the building.

The protruding part is cut off

Insulation of window / door openings and walls next to them

To begin with, consider the principle by which the walls are insulated near the doorway. Here, the main concern for you will be to ensure that there is enough space for opening and closing. There are two options for installing the frame and door.

1. The door is installed flush with the outer side of the insulation layer. In this case, you need special fasteners for it and support in the form of channels. You can see the diagrams of their installation in the image below.
2. The door is installed flush with the main wall. As a result, it turns out to be "recessed" in the insulation. To ensure the normal opening of the door, the polystyrene foam has to be sawed along the edges of the opening.

Installation of the door flush with the outer side of the insulation layer, top view

Fasteners can be seen on the sides of the door frame

Since the door, when fastened at the same level with the insulation, protrudes strongly forward, then it is not the basement that acts as a support for it, but two well-fixed channels

Installation of the door flush with the main wall. The very process of mounting the frame and canvas occurs as usual, but the insulation in the opening must be sawed off. Otherwise, when opening, the door will constantly rub against it, scratch and spoil the insulation itself

Let's imagine the process of installing insulation near the doorway in the form of step-by-step instructions. In this case, an option is being considered with the installation of the frame and the door itself at the level with the main wall.

Step 1. Select the required number of blocks and file them off the edge with a regular fine-toothed hacksaw.

The edge of the block is sawn off

Step 2. Install a frame in the doorway if not already done.

Step 3. Degrease the surface of the door frame.

Degreasing the surface of the door frame

Step 4. Prepare the required number of profiles for thermal insulation of openings. Unpack them, measure and cut. In this case, the edges of the profile adjacent to the corners of the openings must be cut at an angle of 45 °.

Preparation of profiles for thermal insulation of openings

Fitting

Profile trimming

Step 5. Remove the protective tape from the profile adhesive and fix it on one side of the opening. Make sure the profile fits snugly against the surface.

Profile attachment

Step 6. Using the same principle, glue the profiles to the other sides of the opening. In the corners, fit them tightly to each other with cuts made at an angle of 45 ° in one of the previous stages of work.

Installation of profiles on the other sides of the opening

Step 7. Prepare fiberglass strips. Their width should be equal to the thickness of the insulation layer plus 10 cm for fixing to the main wall. In this case, the strip is cut from a solid roll of mesh.

Cutting a roll of fiberglass mesh

Step 8. Along the perimeter of the opening, apply a 10 cm wide strip of adhesive mixture to the wall.

Strip of adhesive mixture

Step 9. Place one edge of the glass mesh strip against the adhesive you applied in the previous step. Press the material to it, literally "drown".

The edge of the fiberglass mesh is pressed against the glue

Step 10. Apply another layer of glue on top of the part of the mesh leaning against the wall.

An adhesive solution is applied on top

Step 11. Repeat the previous steps with the mesh for the other sides of the doorway.

The same is done with other parties.

Step 12. Install foam blocks with cut edges around the perimeter of the opening.

Installation of insulation blocks

The situation with window openings is approximately similar - the block itself with a frame and glass can be installed both in the depth of the opening and on its edge. In the first case, a gap appears between the outer layer of insulation and the window, which is closed with narrow strips of foam. They are glued to the inner surfaces of the opening.

Installation of a window block "in the depth" of the opening. You can see the gap between the frame and the insulation layer.

Same window setting, but top view. Added a narrow strip of Styrofoam to the inside of the opening. It bridges the gap formed, which otherwise could become a "cold bridge"

In the second version, the window is attached to the edge of the opening, adjoining the frame to the insulation layer on the outer wall. This method is more effective from the point of view of thermal insulation.

Regardless of the installation method, the foam layer on the outer walls should slightly overlap the window block in order to prevent the house from freezing through it during the cold season

Installation diagram of the window block with adjoining to the insulation layer

It is also worth saying that the joints of the expanded polystyrene blocks should not coincide with the joint of the window block with the opening. Therefore, along the perimeter, the insulation is installed in the form of products with L-shaped notches. There are two options for how to do this, and they are presented in the images below.

First option

Second option

The process of insulating walls with polystyrene foam near window openings is in many ways similar to that for a doorway. Here's a step-by-step guide.

Step 1. Install the window unit, move it closer to the edge of the opening and fix it well there.

Installation of a window block

Fastening the window block

Step 2. Remove the protective film from the frame and degrease it.

Degreasing the frame

Step 3. Stick a special profile around the frame.

A profile is glued around the perimeter

Step 4. Apply a 10 mm wide strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the profile.

Glue application

Step 5. On the glue applied in the previous step, fix the fiberglass strip using the same principles as for the doorway.

Fastening a strip of fiberglass

Step 6. Cut the blocks in accordance with the diagrams outlined in the images in this section of the article. Secure around the perimeter of the opening.

Installation of insulation blocks

Important! While fixing the foam under the window opening, make a slight tilt necessary to install the ebb.

Slight slope required for ebb installation

As for the space under the roof, here the difference from working with ordinary walls is that it is necessary to pre-cut blocks with different and complex shapes from the foam.

Installation of blocks under the roof

Installation of fixing umbrellas on polystyrene foam

For a more reliable connection of the insulation layer with the main wall, fixing "umbrellas" are used, also known as disc dowels.

Step 1. Determine the length of the disc dowel you need. It consists of the thickness of the insulation layer (in this case, it is 200 mm), the adhesive layer (15 mm), the length of the expansion part of the dowel (60 mm) and another 20 mm of the reserve. Also decide on which of the schemes shown in the image below you will mount the fasteners.

Disc dowel

Dowel fixing schemes

Step 2. Unpack the disc dowels, check if the parameters of the product correspond to those you need.

Unpacking the dowels

Step 3. Prepare a drill with a hole depth stop, adjust the latter to the value you need.

Drill preparation

Step 4. Mark the points for the disc dowels and drill holes there.

Drilling holes

Step 5. Insert the foot of the disc plug into the hole so that the cap is flush with the foam surface. Then use a special drill bit and screw the spacer part of the fastener, then close it with a protective cap.

The dowel foot is inserted into the hole

Tightening the spacer

In some disc dowels, the spacer is not twisted, but clogged. You can see an example of how to work with them in the images below.

In some disc dowels, the spacer does not twist, but clogs

Plugging the spacer

Some builders believe that disc dowels in foam insulation are “cold bridges”. They fight this problem in the following way: using a special cutter, they cut a cylindrical recess in expanded polystyrene, insert fasteners there and fix it. Then the disc dowel is closed with the foam cover cut out earlier.

A cylindrical notch is cut

The dowel is closed with the previously cut foam

Video - Insulation of the facade of the cottage with expanded polystyrene

Insulation reinforcement

On the installation of expanded polystyrene blocks, the process of wall insulation from the outside does not end - the material must be protected with a reinforcing mesh and a plaster mixture.

Step 1. Prepare a plaster-adhesive mixture of dry powder and water. Choose the proportions based on the recipe printed on the package. Mix the mortar with a construction mixer.

Mixing process

Step 2. Start with windows and doors. On the inner surface of their openings, apply a thin layer of plaster-adhesive mixture and level it.

Application of a thin layer of the mixture

Layer alignment

Step 3. Reinforcing mesh, laid on the inner surface of the openings in one of the previous sections of the article, press against the adhesive mixture and drown in it. Smooth over everything with a rectangular trowel.

The mesh is recessed in the mixture

Step 4. In the same way as in the previous operation, press the mesh belonging to the previously installed profile to the adhesive layer and sink it.

The mesh of the previously installed profile is pressed

Step 5. Repeat the previous three steps for all sides of the window opening.

The same, but with the other sides of the opening

Step 6. At the corners near the openings, apply strips of adhesive mixture at a 45 ° angle. Then lay the reinforcing mesh on them and smooth it with a trowel. Such areas near openings are called "kerchiefs".

"Klondike"

Smoothing the reinforcing mesh

Step 7. Measure the corner profile to the required length. Apply a layer of glue mixture along the outer perimeter of the window, then lean the profile with the mesh against it and the inner surface of the opening and smooth with a rectangular trowel.

Profile trimming

Adhesive mixture application

Profile alignment

Smoothing the mesh

Step 8. In the same way, install corner profiles on other surfaces of the window opening.

The same, but on other surfaces of the window opening

Step 9. Attach a small rectangle or square made of reinforcing mesh to the inner corners of the opening, straighten and smooth with an adhesive mixture.

The mesh is applied to the inner corner

Smoothing the mesh with a mixture

Almost ready

Step 10. Repeat steps two through nine for each individual window and door opening.

Step 11. Apply adhesive solution around the perimeter of the house to the bottom of the insulation. Then attach the drip profile there. Install it so that no air pockets remain between it and the insulation. Control the process with the help of a building level.

Applying a solution around the perimeter of the house to the lower part of the insulation

Drip profile applied

Step 12. Apply another layer of plaster over the mesh of the drip profile and smooth with a rectangular trowel.

Smoothing with a rectangular trowel

Step 13. According to the same principles as outlined above, install the corner profile - apply an adhesive layer, attach the product to it, sink it into the mesh and smooth everything from above.

The adhesive layer is applied at the corner

Profile attached

The mesh is smoothed

Step 14. Now proceed to reinforce the entire surface of the walls. Cut lengths from the roll with a net that matches the height of the insulated walls of the house.

Reinforcing mesh cutting

Step 15. On top of the expanded polystyrene, apply a layer of plaster-adhesive mixture and smooth with a notched trowel.

Application of a plaster-adhesive mixture over polystyrene foam

Step 16. Lay a reinforcing mesh sheet on top of the adhesive layer, press it down and cover it with another layer of mortar. Smooth everything thoroughly - irregularities and cavities with air are unacceptable.

Reinforcing mesh laying

The mesh is smoothed with a solution

Step 17. Lay the next section of the net side by side in the same way. There must be an overlap of at least 100 mm between it and the previous one.

The overlap must be at least 100 mm

Step 18. Let the glue mixture dry a little (but not completely!) And scrape off any irregularities.

Irregularities are scraped off

Step 19. Using the rule, search for concavities on the glue layer applied over the insulation. Then line them up by adding a little more mixture in the right places.

Finding concavities using a rule

Leveling irregularities

Step 20. After the finally hardened adhesive mixture, make another leveling of the surface - puttying.

Puttying

Facade styrofoam plaster

The easiest way to insulate a house is to sheathe it with Styrofoam. The material is inexpensive, installation is easy to do on your own, the energy-saving effect is obvious. And in order to protect such a sheathing from the harmful effects of the environment, you need to choose a suitable coating for it. Read more here.

After the putty hardens, the insulation of the walls from the outside with foam plastic can be considered complete. Then you just have to apply the finishing decorative finish in accordance with your tastes and preferences.

How to insulate walls with foam outside

If the walls of the house are not able to retain heat, then no supermodern heating systems will be able to warm it up. At a low temperature in the room, humidity rises sharply and fungus and mold rapidly develop, affecting not only things and furniture, but also the building itself. Experts say that up to 30% of the heat is lost through the walls, so you should take care of their insulation in a timely manner.

Features of working with foam

Polyfoam is one of the most popular and inexpensive materials. It is an excellent heat insulator, is not afraid of moisture, does not rot and can be easily cut using the simplest tools. However, this material very quickly loses its properties under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, so walls lined with foam are never left open.

Another significant disadvantage of foam is flammability. That is why it is used most often in the so-called wet facade systems when the foam layer is covered with a layer of plaster fixed to the reinforcement mesh. This technology has gained great popularity due to its ease of decoration and low cost.

Important! Any tree is capable of absorbing and evaporating moisture, i.e. "breathe". Polyfoam, on the other hand, has a low vapor permeability, so it is not used for cladding a wooden house. In this case, it is better to use glass or basalt wool.

House decoration with foam plastic with further plastering ("wet" facade system)

Wet facade system with decorative plaster layer

Expendable materials

For wall cladding with foam you will need:

Primer: saving is inappropriate here, it will not only reduce the consumption of glue and prevent the development of fungus, but also strengthen the surface and improve adhesion;

Insulation: when laying polystyrene, part of the plate goes for trimming, therefore, for 1 sq. m of the facade will need about 1.05 sq. m of foam; its thickness depends on the climatic zone;

Dowels 6 mm for profile fixing;

Dowels-umbrellas ("fungi"): 1 sq. m will need 5-8 pcs.;

Basement (for the bottom of the wall) and corner profiles;

Reinforcing mesh: 1.35 sq. m per 1 sq. m of the facade; it is better to take a mesh with a density of 140-160;

Styrofoam cutting knife;

Building level;

Putty knife;

Plaster: its consumption is indicated on the package, but it should be noted that another 10% will be spent on the processing of slopes;

Facade paint;

Scaffolding, ladder, trestle or scaffolding.

Preparing the walls

Even a perfectly laid thermal insulation material will not help to avoid heat loss in the presence of open air channels. Therefore, before starting work, you should carefully plaster or fill with polyurethane foam all existing cracks. In order for the solution to penetrate inside, they are pre-expanded to the desired size.

Tap to locate any loose sections of the wall. Loose plaster, soot and mildew layers are removed with a wire brush. You can also use a special grinder attachment. In order for the foam to lie flat, too protruding parts of the wall get lost. Greasy stains are treated with a solvent. On oil-painted walls, it is better to make small notches with an ax to improve adhesion.

Wall priming

Concrete and brick walls are best treated with outdoor epoxy compounds that can penetrate deeply into the surface of the walls. For their priming, you can also use mineral acrylic mixtures for building facades, which provide good adhesion.

Wall priming

Adhesive selection

You can glue the foam to any walls: concrete, brick, plywood, etc. Before starting work, it is better

check the quality of the glue... To do this, smear a small sheet with it, press it against the wall for a few seconds and leave it to dry completely. If, after drying, the foam does not peel off the wall well and small pieces of it remain on it, then the glue is of high quality and is chosen correctly.

Important! You should carefully study the instructions for use: the glue must be frost and moisture resistant. For work with foam, you can take any facade adhesives, silicone sealants or liquid nails. For tile joints, polyurethane foam is used. The composition for fixing the foam must not contain organic solvents (acetone, gasoline, ethers, etc.).

The most suitable adhesive is special compound for gluing foam... There are several varieties of it:

1. Versatile for foam, which is suitable for both gluing and reinforcement.

2. Glue for gluing. Possesses high plasticity and stickiness, when using it, the foam sheets do not slip during the drying process.

3. Adhesive for foam reinforcement: has high strength, but less ductility.

Foam bonding

Wall markings

Corner alignment is not always possible. they may vary slightly. It is better to do the markup in the old old-fashioned way:

using plumb lines (lighthouses)... A load is tied to a twine suspended on a dowel at a distance of 5-7 mm from the wall. After it stops swinging, the string is secured.

If irregularities are found that do not allow the twine with a load to lie flat, they must be knocked down. You can apply glue or construction foam to the "holes" of the wall. Cross (horizontal) markings can be applied using hydro level and twine.

Aligning the wall to the beacons

Setting up a start profile

A metal profile is attached to the bottom of the wall to support the slabs. In addition, it is able to protect the foam from mice that like to settle in the foam.

The size of the profile is selected according to the thickness of the insulation. Fastening is done with dowels 6 mm with washers at intervals of 30-40 cm. The corners of the profile are joined by the method of oblique cuts or using an angle connector.

Fastening the starter profile

Methods for applying glue

You can glue the sheet in the following ways:

For uneven walls, it is better to apply a sufficiently large layer of glue around the perimeter of the sheet, as well as in several places along its center;

With a spatula with teeth, distribute the glue in a small layer evenly over the entire sheet, in this way the foam is glued on even walls;

A special adhesive for foam, sold in cylinders, is applied around the perimeter and center of the sheet.

Foam insulation

Before starting work

the walls must be dry... If you glue the foam on damp, not dry after winter walls, the glue joint will be fragile. When working in the summer heat, changes in day and night temperatures will also not have the best effect on the strength of the not yet dried adhesive composition.

All work should be carried out in the spring, about a week after the heating in the houses is turned off. You can also glue the foam in the fall, when the ambient temperature drops to + 17-18 ° C. You should not start work in warm windy weather, as the glue will set too quickly.

It is not recommended to use too brittle foam in the work: it is better to choose a material with a density of 20 kg / m3. Thermal insulation of denser sheets is less, therefore, it is better not to use them for insulation of external walls.

Finishing procedure You can start gluing the foam one day after applying the primer. Plates are laid with the long side of the sheet down, starting from the bottom corner... The second row should go with an offset, as when laying bricks (see photo). For this, the first sheets of odd rows adjacent to the corners are cut in half. Slabs with a size of 0.5 × 1 m and a thickness of 5 cm are most convenient to use.

The gaps between the sheets are sealed with foam. Gaps that are too large can be sealed with styrofoam trimmings.

Styrofoam gluing scheme

Additional fixation of foam

For this, "umbrellas" are used - special dowels for foam having a plastic head. Their length is selected taking into account the thickness of the slabs. Metal fasteners that can damage fragile plastic are not used. In addition, the metal has a different coefficient of expansion.

Foam dowels To install the dowels in a wall glued with foam, holes are made of appropriate depth into which the dowels are inserted. They should fit into the foam by 1.5-2 mm.

Holes for dowels The "umbrellas" are fastened with an envelope: at the corners of the sheet and in the center. Thus, 5 dowels are required to secure each sheet. The dowels must be inserted into the concrete base to a depth of 50 mm, into a brick wall by 90 mm. For example, with a foam plastic width of 8 cm, “umbrellas” measuring 13-17 cm are used. After inserting them, they are additionally knocked out with a rubber hammer so that each of them is sunk into the foam plastic by a couple of millimeters.

Creation of a decorative and protective layer

A day after laying the foam, it is leveled with a grater. The corners of the house are additionally protected with a reinforced mesh with a corner. It is attached to the glue and pressed tightly against the jamb with an angled spatula.

Styrofoam grout Important! Walls insulated with foam should not be left without finishing for a long time. Even after 2 weeks, ultraviolet rays are already capable of damaging its top layer. If this nevertheless happened, the damaged surface is removed with a float, and only then the wall is lined with mesh.

Reinforced corner and corner trowel

Reinforcement of walls insulated with foam is made using a mesh with cells of 3-5 mm. The mesh is cut into strips of the desired width. A special reinforcement glue is applied to the wall so that the mesh sinks into it. Its edges are fixed last. After fixing the mesh on the wall with a spatula, it is leveled and excess glue is removed. Too large a layer can lead to cracking.

Applying reinforced mesh The second layer of glue is applied only after the first has dried. After 3 days, the reinforced layer is primed, plastered, and then a layer of facade paint is applied to the wall.

From time immemorial, warmth has been included in the main indicators of home comfort. And if its quantity in the house does not suit you, then the time has come to insulate the walls. One of the most affordable, and therefore very popular ways - insulation of a private house with foam.

Styrofoam, aka polystyrene, aka high-quality insulation

The use of polystyrene (expanded polystyrene) in the construction and insulation of houses began relatively recently. But the effect that this simple material showed exceeded all expectations.

At first, polystyrene has high thermal insulation qualities, providing warmth in your home, and significant savings that you are used to spending on heating (those who are going to insulate a private house with polystyrene put on the savings).

Secondly, can withstand quite solid mechanical loads at the lowest density.

Thirdly, let's turn to the thermal conductivity table and make a small analysis of the indicators presented in it:

That is, it is clearly seen here that both types of bricks in terms of thermal conductivity exceed foam plastic at times. And if we compare the indicators, then we can easily come to the conclusion that the masonry of white brick in half a brick in terms of thermal conductivity is equal to 6mm foam layer... And if, for example, you take a standard sheet of foam plastic 25 centimeters thick (these are usually used when insulating houses), then the thermal conductivity of a thin wall increases noticeably - to the level if it were built in three bricks. And this is already 75 centimeters, capable of retaining high-quality heat inside the building.

Thickness and density for home insulation

First of all, expanded polystyrene is distinguished by its density. Based on the nuances of this property, the foam was assigned the following grades: 15 - the least dense polystyrene, the most fragile and least heat-conducting; 25 - has sufficient density, is easy to use, it is also used for construction work and insulation of a private house with polystyrene foam; 35 is a very dense foam that can be safely used in areas where some stress is expected.

Density mark digit- this is the thickness of the foam board in millimeters.

In addition to these standards, foam sheets can have a density of 100 mm. Ten centimeters thick! This is already a pretty solid wall, almost finished. This foam is used to create special conditions in the building. For example, if a full-fledged cellar cannot be dug out due to the proximity of groundwater, they build a ground storage for products with a decent wall thickness, supplemented with foam-plastic protection.

The technology of insulating the walls of the house with foam outside

The process of external insulation of the walls of a private house with polystyrene foam is not so difficult. so many work independently. And they always cope perfectly well. However, before starting work, you need to break it down into stages, measure the building and stock up on the necessary tools.

The first thing you need to do is figure out the exact amount of foam that will be needed to insulate the walls. To do this, you just need an accuracy in measuring the outer area and an accuracy of calculating the zero point.

ATTENTION! IMPORTANT! Calculating the zero point for each specific wall in the near future will save your home from dampness, mold and excessive moisture.

For high-quality and fast wall insulation, take care of the tools and materials in advance. Here is the set you need.:

• primer;
• glue;
• Styrofoam;
• putty;
• basement profile;
• polyurethane foam;
• reinforced mesh;
• two spatulas: notched and smooth;
• hammer;
• disc dowels;
• puncher;
• plastic grater.

Make sure that the materials you choose are suitable for outdoor use - and start with God.

Prepare the walls, install the basement profile, mount the foam plates, mask the seams, plaster the facade, level the walls - this is how the general scheme of insulation of a private house with foam looks like.

Preparing the walls

More specifically, then preparation of walls- this is cleaning them from dust and dirt, freeing them from all kinds of protruding surfaces: whether it be an uneven brick or a lighting fixture.

Cracks and potholes on the wall first, they are primed and only after the soil has dried, they are putty.

Small cracks (no more than 2 mm) can be left alone, but local depressions must be eliminated. You can use a piece of the same foam.

Securing the plinth profile

To get the starting line it is necessary to mark the lower point of the insulated plane, then transfer the mark (using the hydro level) to all external and internal corners and connect with a strong cord.

According to this marking, the basement profile is installed, which will hold the first row of polystyrene, not allowing it to move too actively on the wet glue.

IMPORTANT! Plinth profile connections must not be overlapped.

Insulation sticker

Sticker time foam board on the wall - 20 minutes from the moment the glue is applied.

When insulating a private house with foam plastic, the sheet is applied to the wall taking into account the possible displacement (usually 20-30 mm), then pressed tightly so that it does not protrude beyond the plane of the already glued foam and (necessarily!) Remove excess glue from the surface.

Each newly glued board check the level- "jambs" can negatively affect the appearance of the facade, so you need to notice them and control the quality during the work, and not after.

For reliability, many owners of private houses use a combined method of strengthening foam sheets: they plant it on glue and nail it down with nails. This is a perfectly valid method if you are not sure about the quality of the glue.

IMPORTANT! Any glue for outdoor use is designed for an air temperature of at least +5 C.

In this video, you will clearly see how the insulation outside a private house with foam is done with your own hands.

Insulation inside

Before proceeding with the insulation of the walls of a private house with foam inside, you need to pay close attention to some details:

• the presence of gaps between door (window) openings and the wall. If there are any, they must be urgently eliminated;
• tightness of windows;
• the quality of the heating system (if the batteries are old, they will have to be changed or sections added).

The preparation of the walls in the case of insulating the house from the inside with foam plastic is identical to the preparatory work on the outside: we level the walls, remove the old putty and paint, remove all the nails and screws, wash the wall surface.

List of tools and materials similar:

• Styrofoam;
• antifungal putty;
• cement-based glue or adhesive;
• "Umbrellas";
• mesh and tape;
• roller;
• spatulas;
• drill.

The surface to be insulated must be dry, flat and clean - a universal requirement for such types of work.

It is customary to start installing the foam inside from the lower far corner... Holes are made in the slab and an "umbrella" is driven in. "Umbrellas" in one sheet of foam should be placed on average 5-6, and the cap of each should fit snugly to the surface of the foam (not stick out or "sink").

Judging by the experience of most of the owners who insulated a private house with polystyrene foam, it is most inconvenient to mount the last insulation element in a row - it must be adjusted in size.

When the insulation is applied camouflage the seams and umbrella hats... Regarding the seams: if they are narrow, then they are simply blown out with foam, and the gaps are laid wider with scraps of foam.

IMPORTANT! To insulate the walls from the inside, it is better to use thin sheets of foam - 20-25 mm. This way you will not "steal" the site.

A reinforced tape is applied to the finished wall and attached with an adhesive, then a mesh. There is one peculiarity in fixing the mesh on the wall: it is embedded in glue, and after drying, it is treated with sandpaper.

The final stage is decoration.

Brick house

Often it is brick houses with thin masonry walls that need insulation. And often it is the brick walls that are insulated with foam sheets.

Attach the insulation in this case adhesive mixtures... They are preferable because of their property of "clinging" even to a not very prepared surface. Although here, too, an element of savings must be taken into account: if the brick mill is leveled and prepared, then the consumption of the mixture, respectively, will be lower.

Insulation of a private house with foam - the most common way among the owners of brick housing.

Frame house

When insulating a frame house with foam, insulation is laid between the skin after protecting it from moisture.

You can use sheets with a density of 50 to 150 mm - they will provide a high energy-saving effect.

Wooden house

Thermal insulation is done inside the house., it also plays the role of soundproofing. The walls are sheathed with slabs 4-5 cm thick, leaving a kind of air "cushion" between them and the wall, which will protect the material from moisture.

Inside the house from a bar, foam sheets can be sheathed with plasterboard.

House insulation with penoizol (liquid foam). What the reviews testify

Liquid foam (penoizol) Is a modern variation of the well-known traditional styrofoam. In terms of properties, it is similar to its "ancestor", but noticeably outstrips it in many aspects: it serves flawlessly and trouble-free for 70-80 years, is not as susceptible to combustion as ordinary foam, if the ignition still occurs, then it does not emit toxic substances. And in terms of environmental safety, he has a solid "five".

That is, now the insulation of a private house with foam can be carried out using the latest type of foam.

According to consumer reviews who have tested penoizol on their walls, one can judge how much the new material is more profitable than the profitable old one.

82.3% of respondents noted that after insulation with liquid foam, their heating costs decreased 2-2.5 times.

86.1% of the respondents named the best property of penoizol its ability to penetrate into all cavities without leaving the slightest gap.

91.2% of the respondents, as the most convenient, noted the quality of penoizol filling the cavity between the walls through small holes.

How much does a new product cost? Prices for home insulation with liquid polystyrene foam

Despite the whole range of benefits and conveniences, for the consumer penoizol will be inexpensive: 600-1000 rub. per m2. True, this is not the final amount. Seriously taking on the insulation of a private house with polystyrene foam (liquid, of course), you are unlikely to be able to cope with this task on your own. It will take the involvement of a specialist. And this is an additional 1.3-1.5 thousand rubles. per m2.

The complex of works on warming a private house with traditional foam plastic with a facade area of ​​50 m will cost 10,000 rubles.

It is up to you to choose the material and technology, to pay to you. To live is for you. In a house, the warmth of which depends solely on your choice and possibilities. Although, as you may have noticed, space materials are not needed for foam.