Siding is actively used for exterior decoration of buildings and structures. An inexperienced person will quickly get confused in a variety of materials, there are several technologies. When installing siding, it is important to stick to the plan, slowly completing each step.

DIY installation

When installing siding, experts follow the instructions:

1. Material preparation.
2. Purchase of accessories for installation.
3. Design, markup.
4. Installation of the grill.
5. Preparation of the base.
6. Fixing the guides.
7. Installation of a profile for siding.
8. Installation of corners.
9. Decorating around the windows.
10. Framing to taste.
11. Installation of panels.
12. Gable trim.
13. Passage in places under the roof.
14. Final score.

We mount the crate

When installing siding, everything rests on the material, so it is recommended to do it conscientiously. Well-known and less popular materials are available, each of which has its own advantages. For fasteners, the surface condition is taken into account. In general, the following main stages of work can be distinguished:

1. Decide on the material.
2. Deal with the foundation.
3. Install guides.

The first stage - choose the material

According to the material for a residential building, they choose between metal and wood. The easiest way is to buy bars of the required thickness, but the metal has its own characteristics. Durability is taken into account, plus it is suitable for drywall, however, thermal conductivity affects. It is not necessary to use insulation for wood. The metal is considered durable, but after a while it will overtake corrosion.

To isolate themselves from this trouble, materials with a galvanized surface are used. If we consider large residential buildings, it is foolish to hope that there are bars of an ideal even shape. With any change in temperature, the wood leads in an unknown direction, and in some places it bends to a large degree. According to physical laws, even a small bar, when the humidity increases, twists like a drill. Metal, in turn, is ideal in any situation.

The second stage - we prepare the base

Regardless of the square of the building, you have to start from the corners. Bars or profiles are fixed in a vertical position and checked against a level. Further, a cord is pulled between the blanks, you can use a regular thread. This is the easiest option, there is no need to install the laser level on the wall.

When installing the lathing, the step of each section plays an important role. Many people start from quadrature, but other factors will have to be taken into account:

1. The type of material selected.
2. Surface condition.
3. The need to use insulation.

Also at this stage, platbands and gutters are prepared.

The third stage - set the guides

When the siding is fastened from top to bottom, the bars are laid horizontally. Wooden blanks are better attached with self-tapping screws. Nails are used as additional fasteners. Considering a concrete structure, you cannot do without preliminary drilling of holes and further installation of dowels.

We mount J-profiles

To prevent the panels from skewing during operation, it is necessary to set the profiles according to the level. To do this, it is recommended to follow the instructions for dummies:

1. Applying markings to battens.
2. Fixing a self-tapping screw.
3. We make marks around the entire perimeter.
4. Level check.
5. Fastening the starting rail.
6. Clearance check.

The profile should not rest against the corner; an indent of 6 mm is observed. If, when fixing the dowel, the strip is skewed, it is necessary to remove the fastener and re-install it. In the future, it will not be possible to correct the position of the element, it is worth rechecking in advance.

When attaching external corner profiles, the instructions are followed:

1. Marking with a marker.
2. Fitting profiles.
3. Fixation with self-tapping screws.
4. Level check.

The slightest deviation is unacceptable, the distance between the clamps is about 400 mm, the distance from the edge is 6 mm. In stores, profiles of various lengths are sold and, when elements are overlaid, a minimum overlap of 9 mm. To work with workpieces, a high-torque electric saw is used.

Important! If there is no professional tool, metal scissors will come in handy; in extreme cases, a hacksaw with small teeth is taken.

We mount internal corner profiles

According to the technology, the fixation of the inner corner profile may differ. Workpieces with a length of 1 meter or more are used, and the elements are installed with an overlap. In the upper part, it is necessary to provide a protrusion, which is attached first. In total, 3 popular options for installing a profile are known:

1. Using a zigzag element.
2. Vertical mount.
3. Horizontal fixation.

An indent of 10 mm is observed between the strips, fastening occurs from the upper workpiece.

We mount frames for openings

If the house has many windows and doors, a beginner may get confused. To get it right, it's important to follow a plan:

1. Waterproofing of openings.
2. Fixation of platbands.
3. Fastening the profile.
4. Final finishing.

If there are problems with the platbands, you will have to carefully remove the excess material. Initially, cuts are made, then the workpiece is gradually bent. If deformation of the material occurs, the elements do not fit together. The profile should fit snugly to the bridge, no distortions are allowed. If we consider wide frames, the bridge has to be folded back.

Openings in the same plane with the facade

As is the case with trims, near window profiles love precision. At the first stage, the depth of the opening is estimated, then the bridge is prepared. The specialist is obliged to understand the finishing elements in order to prevent moisture from entering the surface. When the opening is flush with the facade, no slope is required.

The openings are recessed into the facade

To make a slope with your own hands, measurements are taken, bridges are prepared. All finishing elements should be at hand; at the end of the work, the profile is fixed.

We mount the first panel

Siding installation begins at the back of the house. Various surprises are possible, it is important to be prepared for the worst scenario.

Overall plan:

1. Panel installation.
2. Checking the connection.
3. Fixing to the crate.
4. Level check.

When fixing the panel to the crate, the person evaluates the technological indentation. The parameter depends on the ambient temperature, in summer it is less than 6 mm, and in winter the panel is set to a distance of 9 mm.

Expanding the panels

If a non-H-profile is used, the panels are overlapped. This method is considered easier, since there is no need to check the locks. The minimum distance from the top of the soffit is 0.3 cm (the panel is laid with an overlap of 3 cm). A large indent is allowed at the bottom, the distance from the guide is taken into account.

We mount the rest of the siding

According to the technology, the whole house is cladding, it is recommended to take the level after installing 2-3 rows of siding. In order not to fiddle around the edges for a long time, it is recommended to shorten the panels in advance.

Interesting! In order to align the cladding along the plane, a finishing profile is used.

Mount under the roof

Only the J-profile is suitable for the wall, and when installation is carried out, the specialists act according to the plan:

1. Measurement of the distance between the panels.
2. Finishing elements markings.
3. Calculating the top and bottom indentation.
4. Siding blank.
5. The cuts are made on the panel.
6. Checking the hooks.
7. Fixing the siding.

We mount the pediment

Pediments are found in various shapes, but they begin to be sheathed around the perimeter. In this case, the necessary fasteners are installed in the central part, the starting profiles are fixed according to the level, the inner corners are checked. As is the case with wall panels, various installation technologies are available.

To speed up the siding installation process, it is recommended to trim the elements in advance. Most often, difficulties arise precisely with locks, since the indent is not respected (at least 6 mm). If the last panel does not become, then the level has floated, you will have to redo everything.

Features of installation in winter

If you install siding in the winter, there is a great risk of doing something wrong. The discomfort of workers due to low temperatures is taken into account, and technology is additionally taken into account. The material can react in different ways to frost, the moisture drop is taken into account. The main thing is to prevent significant overheating of the material, to try to keep a stable temperature.

If you unload the panels near the heating devices, its deformation will surely occur. When vinyl siding is used on hand, it should only be opened indoors. The preparation of the panels also takes place under the roof. Already at a temperature of - 5 degrees, plastic becomes unusually fragile. Even if you work with a grinder, a big crack can go, so the specialist decides himself the possibility of bending the workpiece, this is reflected in the number of scrap.

As mentioned earlier, when working in winter, the indentation of the panels is taken into account. In the cold, the siding will certainly become smaller and straighten out when it gets warmer. In order not to miscalculate with the gap, it is important to leave a distance of 6 mm. If the temperature does not rise sharply, everything will go well.

The workpiece length compensation is partially suppressed by the adjacent panel. Another secret lies in the use of fasteners, self-tapping screws are considered effective, but nails increase the chance of damaging the siding. Elements with a 2 mm head are selected, self-tapping screws are fixed clearly in the center, work on the edges is not allowed.

DIY siding dismantling

If you do not want to contact a specialist, you can dismantle the siding yourself. Such work may be required when deforming panels, or moving a window. Also, owners often look for better siding and want to replace it.

Important! From the tools for dismantling, you will need an unpacker, as well as a nailer.

No special skills are required, the main thing is to follow the step-by-step instructions. The unpacker can be sold in the store, but it is easy to do it yourself, you only need a plate with a sheet thickness of 3 mm. On the subject of a nailer, wide-jawed tools are suitable. If we consider compact models, the likelihood of damage to the insulation increases. Also, inexperienced builders with screwdrivers are able to break through the membrane.

Dismantling starts from the lower planks, everything is done easily, without excessive physical effort. The big advantage is that a partner can be dispensed with on the construction site. It is recommended to lay the finished panels side by side on a previously prepared site. The whole work consists in prying the panel from the bottom side with the unpacker.

Next, there is a tightening on itself, the siding is shifted slightly down. If everything is done correctly, the lock opens, the panel is easily detached. Some will have difficulties with fastening, since the service life of the elements is taken into account. If the siding has been installed recently, it is much easier to detach.

The problem is that the plates lose their elasticity with prolonged use, they can easily be broken in half. Thus, it is recommended to work carefully, not to make sudden movements. Having reached the starting bar, the previously prepared nailer will come in handy. The fasteners are hooked from the top side.

The cost of installation of siding

If there is no possibility, or desire to independently install siding, you need to familiarize yourself with the price list:

1. Installation of plastic siding on the wall - 250-300 rubles per square meter.
2. Hemming the roof - prices from 300 rubles. per square meter.
3. Working with fiber cement siding - 700-800 rubles. per square meter.
4. Fixing the film - price per m2 60 rubles.
5. Collection and installation of wooden lathing - 100 rubles. per meter.
6. Lathing on a brick surface - the cost per square meter is 200 rubles.
7. Collection and installation of metal crate - the cost of work is 400 rubles. per meter.
8. Installing a metal lathing on a brick - 500-550 rubles.
9. The use of a heater with a thickness of 50 mm - 100-150 rubles. per meter.
10. Fixing insulation with a thickness of 100 mm - price per work 200 rubles.

The cost of dismantling siding

If you find a little-known company, it will dismantle the siding at a price of 100 rubles. per square meter. There are individuals who undertake work at a price tag of 500 rubles. per square meter, the average price is 300 rubles. per meter. This cost includes the following steps:

1. Departure of the brigade.
2. Inspection of the object.
3. Removing the siding.
4. Dismantling of decorative overlays.
5. Removing the ebb strips.
6. Closing the ends.
7. Removing the strips.
8. Dismantling the frame.
9. Removing the crate.
10. Removing insulation.
11. Ultimate material disposal.

This manual provides all the necessary information regarding the installation of Metal Profile siding. Please read this manual carefully before proceeding.

ATTENTION! A prerequisite for the provision of a guarantee is compliance with the rules of transportation, storage, loading, unloading and installation!

Transportation

• Siding panels should be loaded onto a flat, solid body base. The body length should not be less than the length of the siding packs.
• During transportation, it is necessary to ensure that the products are protected from movement and mechanical damage.
• The recommended vehicle speed is up to 80 km / h. Avoid sudden acceleration and deceleration.

Loading and unloading, storage

• Loading and unloading of siding should be carried out using lifting equipment with soft slings, with pack lengths over 5 meters - using traverses.
• When unloading manually, it is necessary to attract a sufficient number of workers (at the rate of 1 person per 1.5-2 lm sheet), but not less than 2 people.
• It is necessary to lift and move the sheets carefully in the position as shown in the figure, avoiding strong bends.
• It is forbidden to throw sheets and drag them by dragging.
• Storage conditions when exposed to climatic factors must comply with conditions 3 in accordance with GOST 15150 (unheated rooms without direct exposure to the profiles of sunlight and rain).
• Packs of siding in their original packaging must be laid out on level ground on beams of 50x150 mm with a step of 0.5 m in one row.
• When storing for more than 1 month, it is necessary to open the packing film on each end side of the packs to ensure ventilation.

Required tools and hardware

For work, you will need: a screwdriver, a set of nozzles, a tape measure, a level, a plumb line, a square, metal scissors (hand or electric), a hacksaw for metal or a circular saw with a disc for cutting metal, a drill (perforator), a hammer (mallet), a knife for thermal insulation, gloves, marker, technical documentation (ATR, PPR).

Tools and fasteners

	Self-tapping screw ∅4.2x16 galvanized with a press washer. For attaching shaped elements to cladding, for attaching siding.
	Steel rivets. For connecting the elements of the supporting frame to each other, facade products.
Plumb line	Roulette	Screwdriver	Level
Gon	Metal scissors	Hacksaw for metal	Circular Saw
	Drill attachment and set of interchangeable knives. Gives a conventional drill the function of electric shears for cutting steel up to 0.8 mm.
	Cutting scissors for metal and a set of interchangeable knives. For manual cutting of steel up to 0.6 mm.
	During work, it is necessary to comply with the current safety and labor protection regulations.
	ATTENTION! FORBIDDEN! When using an angle grinder (grinder), the polymer and zinc coating of the siding is damaged, which can lead to accelerated corrosion.

Siding types

Siding - decorative metal panels designed for facing facades and filing cornices. It is possible to manufacture three types of profiles:

"Ship board", "Lbrus", "Woodstock®", as well as soffits "Lbrus".
The panel is made of thin-sheet galvanized steel with a polymer coating in various colors, including imitation for various natural materials.

Siding "Shipboard" - the classic most popular siding profile. Due to its shape, it is easy to install and easy to use. Most often used for wall cladding. Raw material: galvanized steel coil with polymer coating.

Siding "Lbrus". The groove on the siding resembles the shape of the famous mountain, and the letter "L" stands for Light, emphasizing the advantage of a steel imitation of a bar over a wooden counterpart in terms of weight and ease of installation. It is used as wall cladding (in vertical or horizontal position) and filing of eaves of buildings when completing roofs.

Steel siding Woodstock®-28x330, having all the advantages of steel siding, is distinguished by its original shape and attractive appearance, imitating a round log. Woodstock® allows you to give your home the appearance of a natural log and create a sense of coziness and comfort. Woodstock® from Metal Profile accurately mimics the profile of log masonry and has a deep profile geometry that fully reproduces the texture of natural wood. The material is protected from corrosion, mechanical damage and burnout in the sun by a zinc and polymer coating. Woodstock® steel siding is an environmentally friendly material. Unlike wood, it does not burn, does not rot, is not affected by insects, and at the same time allows you to preserve the aesthetics of a wooden structure.

Panel characteristics

Additional elements

Outside complex corner plank PUNS-75x75x3000 PUNSW-75x75x3000		Outside corner strip PUN-30x30x3000 PUN-50x50x3000 PUN-75x75x3000
Internal compound corner plank PUVS-75x3000 PUVSW-75x3000		Internal corner plank PUV-30x30x3000 PUV-50x50x3000 PUV-75x75x3000
Complex docking bar PSTS-75x3000 PSTSW-75x3000		Docking bar PST-50x2000 PST-60x3000
Hard finishing plank PZS-30x25x3000		Finishing plank PZ-65x3000
Initial siding plank PNS-10x20x3000		Universal docking bar PSU-50x18x3000 PSUW-50x30x3000
Initial siding plank PNW-12x15x3000		Z-bar PZ-32x15x3000 PZ-30x23x3000

Preparing for installation

Substructure elements

Reinforced mounting brackets KKU-90 (120, 150, 180, 230) with washer and insulating spacer, t = 1.2 and 2.0 mm	Mounting brackets KK-50 (90, 120, 150, 180 and 230), with washer and insulating spacer, t = 1.2 and 2.0 mm	Bracket extension reinforced UK-150, t = 1.2 mm
Fastening profile L-shaped KPG-40x40x3000, t = 0.9 and 1.2 mm	Fastening profile L-shaped KPG-60x44x3000, t = 0.9 and 1.2 mm	Fastening profile L-shaped wide KPGSH-60x81x3000,

Substructure materials

Depending on the degree of aggressiveness of the environment and the required service life, substructure elements can be supplied in three versions:

• Galvanized steel (Zinc);
• Powder coated galvanized steel (Galvanized, WITH PO);
• Corrosion Resistant Steel (Stainless).

Substructure

A substructure is a wall-mounted steel frame system for attaching siding or other cladding material. The substructure consists of KK (KKU) mounting brackets with a console overhang from 50 to 230 mm, bracket extensions (used only with extended KKU mounting brackets), L-shaped guide profiles. Ventilated facade systems are also equipped with various types, thermal insulation and films.

Most often, a lightweight substructure is used for the installation of siding panels.

Mounting

Installation of a metal substructure

Before starting installation, it is necessary to clean the surface of elements not connected to the base (peeling plaster, paint, etc.), as well as dismantle the elements of the drainage system, antennas, signs, etc.

Next, the axes are marked according to the project, and the beacons are installed. Brackets with an isolon (paronite) gasket are attached to the existing wall through a washer with facade anchors with a step of 800 mm in height and a step of 700 mm in the width of the building. The distance from the edge of the wall is at least 100 mm.

The length of the mounting brackets is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation. If the thickness of the insulation exceeds 230 mm, reinforced fastening brackets (KKU) should be used together with an extension arm (UK), which makes it possible to increase the outreach of the substructure up to 350 mm.

After mounting the mounting brackets, the use of insulation is allowed. The insulation is installed from the bottom up. In this case, the insulation must rest on the base or other surface in order to avoid slipping. Insulation plates are stacked tightly to each other, preventing voids and deformation. When laying insulation in two layers, the joints of the plates should not coincide. Fastening of thermal insulation boards to the base is carried out with plastic disc-type dowels with spacer rods (5-7 pcs. Per m2). When working with insulation, protective gloves and a respirator must be worn.

A hydro-windproof membrane with an overlap of 150 mm is installed on top of the insulation.

The L-shaped profile is installed perpendicular to the direction of the siding panels. When mounted horizontally - vertically.

The design of the brackets allows leveling (straightening) of the sheathing plane up to 30 mm to create a flat surface for siding. If this is not enough, then it is necessary to install brackets of a different length or an extension bracket.

To remove condensate from the insulation in the system, it is necessary to provide a ventilated gap of at least 40 mm.

Installation of additional elements

Additional elements are decorative elements used for cladding walls with siding, at joints, corners, slopes, etc. Additional elements are divided into complex and simple.

Complex planks are installed before the installation of wall panels, therefore, the joints of the siding panels must be determined and marked in advance, taking into account the overall dimensions of the panels. After fixing all complex planks, the siding panels are installed.

Installation takes place by inserting the siding panel into the groove in the lock of the previous panel. It is necessary to insert the panel all the way into the corner or joint strip, so that a gap of 10 mm remains between the siding and the ribs of the strips (to compensate for the temperature gap), we put the opposite end behind the strip. We fix the panel with self-tapping screws 4.2x16 to the L-shaped fastening profile.

For the normal functioning of the ventilation facade system, it is necessary to leave gaps (40 mm) between the surface of the insulation (hydro-windproof membrane) and the inner side of the cladding, as well as: at the base, under and above the windows, under the eaves of the roof.

Installation of simple shaped (additional) elements is carried out after the installation of wall panels.

Installation of siding "Ship board"

Installation of "Shipboard" siding begins from the bottom up. The initial bar (PNS-10x20x3000) is level in a horizontal position and fixed to the fastening L-shaped profiles with self-tapping screws 4.2x16. It is preliminarily recommended to install a base / plinth ebb, if required.

For ease of installation, the edge of the siding lock must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees with metal scissors on both sides.

The first "Shipboard" siding plank is inserted under the lower part of the initial plank, providing a locking grip, the upper part of the siding is attached to the guides with 4.2x16 self-tapping screws in the perforated holes.

The subsequent rows of siding are hooked on each other and fastened with 4.2x16 screws to the profiles. The self-tapping screw is placed in the center of the perforation hole with a certain gap to compensate for temperature deformations. Using the level, the horizontal installation of the siding rails is checked.

If it is necessary to screw the self-tapping screw into the edge of the hole in order to get into the subsystem bar, then it is recommended to increase the length of the hole. A gap of 1 mm must be left between the screw head and the panel. If the top siding panel is larger than the size required by the project, it must be trimmed to the required size. Position the Z-strip and rivet the last siding panel.

After the installation of the siding panels, the last row with perforations is closed, the joints to the roof, the joints of the window and door openings.

Installation of siding Lbrus

Installation of Lbrus siding is carried out from top to bottom, from left to right. This is due to the geometry of the lock, since during installation from the bottom up, precipitation may enter the siding lock, which can lead to negative consequences.

Installation begins with the installation of the PZS-30x25x3000 rail. The first row of siding is inserted into the strip and fixed with 4.2x16 self-tapping screws to the substructure: the self-tapping screw is placed in the center of the perforation hole with a certain gap to compensate for temperature deformations.

Subsequent rows of siding are inserted into each other and attached in the same way. Using the level, the horizontal installation of the siding panels is checked. If the last siding panel is larger than the size required by the project, it must be trimmed to the required size, a Z-bar should be installed and the last siding panel must be riveted.

Installation of siding Woodstock ®

Woodstock ® siding accurately reproduces the relief of log masonry and has a deep profile geometry that fully reproduces the pattern of natural wood.

The Woodstock ® siding lock creates a barrier to water, thereby preventing it from penetrating inside and, freezing, violating the integrity of the structure.

This lock makes it possible to mount Woodstock ® siding both from bottom to top and from top to bottom.

When installing siding panels from bottom to top. The perforation section for securing the panels (lock) must be on top. The number of panels is calculated according to the height of the facade, based on the useful width of the siding panel - 330 mm. If the number of panels is not a whole, you need to cut off the remaining (topmost) panel to the required size, install a Z-shaped bar and fasten the last siding bar with rivets.

Top-down mounting option.

The first row of siding is hooked onto the starting bar PNW-12x15x3000. The bottom of the panel is attached with self-tapping screws to the substructure: the self-tapping screw is placed in the center of the perforation hole with a gap to compensate for temperature deformations.

Subsequent rows of siding mesh with each other and are attached in the same way. Using the level, the horizontal installation of the siding panels is checked.

If the last siding panel is larger than the size required by the project, it must be trimmed to the required size, a Z-bar should be installed and the last siding panel must be riveted.

In cases where there are any external objects in the wall, such as: drainpipes, electrical wiring - you need to cut a hole 6-10 mm larger than the device itself.

Installation of frames for window and door openings

Fitting siding around windows.

The framing of window and door openings can be: a shaped product or an external complex corner strip, in some cases they can use external corner strips, which are already installed on top of the mounted siding. The window sill is usually placed on the window sill.

When installing door and window frames, you must first install the upper parts, then the side ones.

Completion of installation.

The final touch is the framing of the upper edge of the cladding. Depending on the situation, it can be done: with a window tide, a fastening strip or an internal corner.

All these elements are fastened with self-tapping screws. Step 300 mm.

You can improve the appearance of a house or any other extension by installing siding, moreover, it perfectly protects the walls from precipitation and wind blowing. This facade material is also used for cladding industrial buildings.

Siding is a practical and popular building cladding material. It is produced in the form of panels from 3 to 4 meters long, each of which has a latch-lock and an edge with holes for fasteners. Siding has good performance and aesthetic appearance. Of the positive qualities, it can be noted:

• makes the appearance of the building more beautiful and neat;
• thanks to a large selection of panels, the house can be given an individual style;
• high-quality siding has a service life of more than 30 years;
• installation can be done independently;
• is a safe material;
• when dirty, it can be easily cleaned with water and detergent.

Low-quality and cheap siding burns out under the influence of the sun after 2 years, since a small amount of titanium dioxide is added to it during production.

Finishing panels are available in a variety of textures, and come in a wide range of colors. Siding is produced in several types:

1. Metal;
2. Vinyl;
3. Basement (fiber cement);
4. Acrylic;
5. Wood.

Let's take a closer look at each type:

• Vinyl siding is made of polyvinyl chloride and in appearance can copy finishing materials from stone, wood and brick. The panels are lightweight and resistant to mold and decay. The material is non-toxic and not damaged by pests. Vinyl products do not conduct electricity and are inexpensive, but not resistant to mechanical stress.

• Acrylic siding is a new finishing material, and in terms of technical parameters it is almost the same as vinyl siding. At the same time, it is very durable, has a more resistant coating to the effects of ultraviolet rays. The panels have a long service life and do not deform from high temperatures. It is also resistant to aggressive substances and non-flammable. Acrylic siding has one drawback - high cost.

• Metal siding is available in steel, aluminum and galvanized steel. This material is strong, durable and environmentally friendly. The panels do not change their original shape when the temperature drops and are resistant to oil and chemicals. Mold cannot grow on its surface and pests do not eat it. There are several disadvantages to metal siding. Rust will form on the panel when the protective coating peels off. There is a lot of noise when it rains. Metal siding is more expensive than vinyl siding.

• Wooden siding or facade clapboard is the most environmentally friendly material and has excellent thermal insulation performance. It is produced from coniferous and larch wood species. To prevent the panels from darkening and cracking, a protective coating is applied to them. The price of the material depends on the type and type of wood.

• Fiber cement panels are made from high quality cement, cellulose fibers and sand. The outer side of the slab has a special coating that protects against moisture and sunlight. The material is non-combustible, and it also does not rot and mold. Fiber cement siding is resistant to mechanical damage and deformation. Does not contain harmful substances and is environmentally friendly. The service life is 25-50 years, depending on the manufacturer and external conditions.

Installation of battens with waterproofing and insulation

Before installing the siding, you need to make a reliable frame. The lathing can be made of wooden beams or metal profiles. It is fixed to the walls with brackets. The racks of the lathing are fixed in the opposite direction of the siding, that is, if the panels are mounted horizontally, then the lathing is made vertically, and vice versa. The distance between the elements in the structure depends on the weight of the siding - the heavier the material, the more often the racks are attached.

Step-by-step instructions for making the lathing:

1. The surface of the walls is prepared, drains and all protruding parts are removed.
2. If necessary, the walls are primed, the wooden surfaces are treated with an antiseptic.
3. Using a level and a plumb line, places are outlined for attaching the suspensions. They are placed every 40 cm, they retreat from the edges of the walls by 15 cm, from the inner corner - 10 cm.
4. Drill holes, insert dowels and mount U-shaped brackets.
5. Bars are fastened along the edges of the wall, a rope is pulled between them.
6. The rest of the vertical beams are mounted.
7. With a step of 40 cm, horizontal metal profiles are installed.
8. Above the plinth, above and below the windows and doors, using the “crab” connector, the horizontal elements of the battens are fixed.
9. Mineral insulation is laid between the racks and under the crate; an overlap is applied at the joints. Attached to the wall with umbrella dowels.
10. Mineral wool and crate are covered with wind and vapor barrier insulation. The edges of the film are stacked on top of each other and glued with construction tape. It is fixed to the crate with double-sided tape and counter-rails.

You can insulate the walls immediately after installing the U-shaped brackets. The heat-insulating material is put on the suspensions and fixed with umbrella-type dowels, after which it is covered with waterproofing, and the lathing is mounted for installing the siding.

For regions with a warm climate, thermal insulation is not done, and for cold zones, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 15 cm.

Installation of the starter bar

Before installing the starting strip, ebb tides are installed. They are fixed with self-tapping screws with a distance of 40 cm between them. When joining, the ebb tides are placed on top of each other. The overlap width is at least 2.5 cm. A building level is used to indicate an even angle.

The starting or starting bar refers to the load bearing elements. Installed from the top edge of the ebb or at the very bottom of the wall. The first siding sheet is being installed on it. The initial bar is fixed by checking the level, since the evenness of the entire wall cladding depends on its installation.

Installation of the starter bar:

• from the lower border of the future sheathing retreat upward by 4 cm;
• using a level, they make marks on all vertical posts of the crate or make notes on the wall if there is no frame;
• the initial plank is set with the upper edge to the marks;
• fixed with self-tapping screws in the middle of the factory holes;
• the starting strips are attached so that the distance between them is 0.5 cm (this gap is necessary for thermal expansion);
• the same distance should be from the edges of the corner elements or the width of the corner profile plus 12 cm.

What is the J-profile for?

• The J-profile is a versatile, load-bearing siding trim element. It can be regular, arched (flexible) and wide.
• A regular J-profile is required at the end of a cladding row at the end of a wall, for sheathing the edge of an eaves, or for replacing a finish panel.
• Wide is usually used to decorate door and window openings.
• Arched is used along the edge of an arch-shaped opening. The panel has notches where cuts are made at the required distance, so that it can be bent at the desired angle.
• J-profiles are fixed to the walls with nails or self-tapping screws.

How to fix the siding

Fastening of siding is done on the facade of the building or on the lathing. Fastening methods depend on the type of facing material:

• Vinyl panels should only be fastened to the factory holes.
• It is recommended to use galvanized fixing hardware for wood cladding.
• The fastening of the elements should be done straight and straight, in the center of the factory hole.
• Fastening the siding to each other, they push it from the bottom up so that the upper panel snaps into the lower lock.
• When installing the slats, you need to leave a gap of 2 mm between them and the lathing to expand the cladding during temperature changes.

Installation of internal and external corner strips

Corner panels are load bearing elements. Attached after the starting profile. Designed to close and secure the edges of siding, also serve as guides.

Installation of corner strips:

• mount the panel so that its lower part protrudes 0.5-0.7 mm above the starting bar, and the upper edge does not reach the cornice by 5-7 mm;
• begin to fix the profile from top to bottom;
• the first self-tapping screw is screwed into the upper part of the factory hole, the rest of the fasteners are located in the middle of the holes;
• the distance between the screws is 20 cm;
• to lengthen the corners, the holes for fastenings are cut off at the top profile to a length of 34 mm so that the strips overlap each other by 25 mm, and the remaining 9 mm are left for a gap;
• if the starting strips are located close to the corner, then at the corner profile the edges of the nail fasteners are cut to the height of the starting strip;
• internal and external corner strips are installed using a plumb line and level.

How to lengthen siding strips

When the siding is shorter than the length of the sheathing wall, a connecting strip is installed to lengthen the panels horizontally. The connecting profile covers the joints of the siding, which makes it more durable, protects against precipitation under the cladding. In addition, this way the appearance of the facade will look more beautiful and look like one whole.

You can also lengthen siding panels using the "overlap" method. The profile sheets should be staggered, avoiding butt joints at the same level in a row. The overlap length of one panel on another must be at least 5 cm, with the obligatory coincidence of the factory holes for fasteners.

Installation of H-profile

H-profile refers to additional load-bearing elements. Used to join two horizontal cladding panels when the wall is longer than the cladding material. It is also used when connecting soffit (cornice) siding.

The fastening of the connecting strip starts from the top of the wall. The first fasteners are made at the top of the hole, the subsequent screws are screwed in the middle of the holes. The H-profile from the eaves should recede by 0.5 cm, and be 6 mm below the starting bar. On both sides, the connecting profile has a distance of 0.6 cm from the starting panels, that is, it is located between them.

During installation, the siding is not inserted into the H-profile until it stops, but so that a gap of 5-6 mm remains for thermal expansion.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

For an even and neat finishing of the facade of the building, it is necessary to use a level, the length of which must be at least 80 cm.

The end side of the first siding panel is inserted into the corner strip, and the lower part is inserted into the initial bend-lock and snapped into place. After that, if necessary, pull it up to level the horizontal row. Twisting the fasteners on the panel is done from the center to the edges. Leave 5 mm between adjacent strips for thermal expansion.

Fasteners must not be fully screwed in. A gap of 1-2 mm is left from the screw head to the panel. You cannot pull the profile up after the lock connection on the starter bar clicks into place.

Subsequent rows of panels are installed in the same way - one side of the siding is placed in the corner groove, and the other in the H-profile or in the opposite corner. The installed panel is snapped into the lock of the previous one and screwed to the crate.

Facade cladding with siding is mounted to the top of the wall, but so that there is room for the installation of the finishing strip and the last profile.

Laying the finishing siding strip

A finishing strip is a decorative element that is used to beautifully and sealed the top edge of the last panel. Install with the factory mounting holes facing down and the panel lock facing up.

Finishing strip installation procedure:

• the plank is mounted with screws at the very top of the wall, under the eaves;
• the distance from the top of the finishing strip to the installed panels is measured, and 0.3 cm is subtracted from the result; if the width of the profile sheet is greater than the distance, then the upper part is cut off from it;
• at the cut panel (without the upper part), holes are made every 10 cm with perforating pliers;
• at the prepared strip, the lower part is inserted into the lock of the previous profile, and the upper part is inserted into the lock mount of the finishing panel and latched into place.

Fasteners are screwed onto the finishing strip through 3-5 holes and in their center.

How to get around windows and doorways with siding

Before siding, the openings of windows and doors are trimmed with special additional elements (platbands). Along the perimeter of the inner side of the window (door), the slats are fixed to which the finishing profile is screwed.

At the upper and lower near-window strips, the edges from the inner side are cut by 2 cm, and bent in the form of "tongues". The upper and lower platbands are inserted into the groove of the finishing one, then fixed with screws to the crate. When installing the side window strips, the "tongues" are wound inward.

If the siding panel does not fit in width under the window or above the window (or door), it is shortened to the required depth along the width of the opening. At the place of the cut, holes are made for fasteners, which should be the same size as the factory ones. Then the siding panel is slipped under the window element and fixed. An ebb is installed at the bottom of the window opening, the upper edge of which rises from the window along its entire length. The width of the window sill should be 5 cm larger than the opening.

Above the window (door), the profile is mounted in the same way. For wall cladding on the side of the openings, the panels are cut to the required length. Then they are brought under the platbands.

When the wall cladding is made with highly embossed siding, for example, a block house, then the installation of window slats is done after the panels are installed.

Gable trim

At the final stage, they start facing the pediment. If the attic will be used for living quarters, then the pediment is insulated.

First, the roof overhangs and the end part of the roof are prepared. Remove old cladding, ebbs and wind boards. The roof material is trimmed so that it is flush with the front overhangs. The lathing for the siding of the pediment is made in the same order as on the walls.

Installation of siding on the pediment:

• if the wall of the house and the pediment are separated by the cornice, then ebb planks are mounted;
• along the perimeter of the pediment, J-strips are fixed or from below the starting one, and from above - the finishing one;
• corners are made from a metal profile and strips of outer corners are installed;
• since the shape of the pediment has an angular slope, a siding trim is used as a template to apply cutting lines to it;
• the connection of the panels is made with an overlap or with the help of an H-strip;
• the top is a ridge siding sheet, fixed from above directly through the panel, it is better to drill a hole in advance.

The cornice is finished with a special facing material - soffit. For the installation of panels, the edges of the cornice are sheathed from the inside with slats. J-bars are attached to them. Soffit siding is flexible enough, so it is easy to install with a slight downward bend and fit into the grooves of the J-strip. A click is heard when the panel is inserted correctly. The distance between them is 0.2-0.3 cm for thermal expansion. The cladding of the building is completed by the installation of roofing strips - drip planks. Placed on the outside of the slopes.

You can do the installation of siding with your own hands. The main thing is to strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions and follow all recommendations. Buying building material should be done in one batch at once, so that it is enough to finish all the walls, plus 5-10% more than the calculated amount (for fitting). Complementary elements are purchased from the same manufacturer.

Facade cladding with siding is considered a simple task, however, in order to perform it efficiently, it is important to comply with a number of requirements, rules and recommendations. To make the facade finish look neat, beautiful and serve for a long time, pay special attention to the preparatory stage.

Taking measurements

To calculate the number of ordinary panels, fasteners, components, you need to measure the facade. If it has a complex shape, the Euromet specialists recommend “breaking” it into rectangular, triangular segments. Measurements can be taken in two ways:

• including the area of ​​openings of windows, doors in the total area of ​​the walls. This will create the necessary siding stock;
• with a large area of ​​door and window openings - excluding them from the total area of ​​the facade. In this case, the measurement result is increased by 10% in order to create the necessary stock of material.

The result obtained is the usable area of ​​siding panels required for finishing the facade. To find out how many row panels you need, divide the resulting total area by the usable area of ​​one panel.

Separately, the number of corner elements (along the height of the outer and inner corners), window strips or platbands (along the perimeter of openings), starting profiles (perimeter of the house) and other components are calculated.

Vinyl siding installation rules

To perform the correct installation of siding, observe the following requirements.

Before mounting, the panel should not be stored in an environment where it can heat up to temperatures above 60 ° C. Do not place material under or on black or dark film, under unventilated plastic wrap, near heating appliances, or in direct sunlight.

The panels are installed in compliance with the temperature gaps. Siding shrinks when cooled and expands when heated. Clearances are needed to compensate for dimensional changes. In the longitudinal direction, it can be up to 0.3%. Make sure that the already mounted cladding elements move horizontally to avoid warping and deformation.

Monitor the condition of the interlocking connections. Ordinary panels are joined by moving them from bottom to top. At the same time, the elements are not pressed with great effort, so as not to break the locks, not to distort them.

For mechanical fastening, place the foot of a self-tapping screw or nail in the center of the fastening hole. Do not make a strong attachment: leave a gap between the surface of the material and the head. The foot of the fastener should not fit into the hole near the edge of the fastener. If there is no other way to get into the purlin, enlarge the hole.

At the joints and holes, Euromet specialists recommend to provide for temperature gaps. Their minimum size is 6.4 mm. If installing cladding in cold weather, leave a clearance of 9.5 mm.

The horizontal joints of ordinary panels are overlapped. It is impossible to use sealant at their joints with corner elements or profiles.

The foot of the mechanical fastener must be in a straight line perpendicular to the plane of the cladding. When placed obliquely, it will interfere with the free movement of the material in the event of expansion or contraction.

When using siding with a long service life, it is worth additionally buying a few ordinary panels in case, after a few years, repair or replacement of part of the cladding is required.

The lathing for siding is assembled from well-dried wood or metal profile. The frame must be flat and dimensionally stable.

Additional elements

For cladding corners, openings and other complex sections of the facade, auxiliary elements are used. This improves the quality of installation, improves the appearance of the finished facade.

Required tools and equipment

You can work with a standard tool (jigsaw, hammer, screwdriver, level and square, etc.). Observe safety precautions, use safety glasses and gloves. Additionally, you can use the following tool to speed up installation.

Electric saw

The electric saw cuts the siding evenly and neatly. In order not to damage the panels, the panel is installed in the opposite direction. Use a 12-16 toothed strip by 2.5 cm.

Knife

Convenient if you need to trim, trim the element.

Metal scissors

They simplify the cutting of rigid elements, ordinary panels.

Special tool. With its help, cuts are made in the panels. The trimmed element is folded back and used as a fastener.

Used to make additional or lengthen existing mounting holes.

Dismantling hook

Tool for opening lock connections. Simplifies replacement, removal of panels and other cladding elements.

Cutting material:

• perform work in compliance with safety regulations, protect your eyes with construction goggles;
• if you are using a power saw, turn the blade in the opposite direction. The cuts are made at low speed;
• when working with metal shears, 3/4 of the blade length is used. This helps to get neat cuts;
• the cuts are made in the direction from the upper edge of the panel;
• if the cut is made with a knife, the cut is not made through. A partial cut is enough, along the line of which the material then breaks off.

Using fasteners

For fastening the cladding elements, metal corrosion-protected fasteners are used. For reliable fastening, the length of the legs must be such that they fit into the battens or solid base to a depth of at least 2 cm.

Head diameter - 8 mm or more, legs - 3 mm.

Self-tapping screws. The leg is screwed into the center of the mounting hole. The fasteners are not rigidly fixed. A gap of 1 mm is left between the inner surface of the head and the surface of the cladding. The leg fits into the crate 2 cm or more. Good reliability of fastening is provided by self-tapping screws No. 8 made of galvanized steel.

Use brackets with wide heads, fasten them so that the panels move freely. When fastening, make sure that the bracket goes into the purlin to a depth of 2 cm or more.

Preparation for the installation of siding

Take measurements as described above. If necessary, fit the batten. The base must be flat, clean and solid. Where the siding will touch the surface of the walls and around the openings, lay to protect from moisture. To increase the service life of the cladding, FSF plywood can be installed under it.

Installation of siding during reconstruction, renovation of the facade

Prepare the walls for installation

Loose boards are fixed, worn ones are changed. Lighting elements, gutters and shutters are removed. Additionally, you can replace the insulating materials and. If the walls have solid sheathing, you can install siding on top of it.

Fastening the cladding

When installing vinyl siding, keep in mind that the size of the material changes as it cools and heats up. This change can be up to 9.5 mm for every 3 m of cladding. In order for the cladding to remain flat, not to warp, a number of requirements are fulfilled.

To perform horizontal joints of ordinary panels, locks are used. They are closed along their entire length. You need to latch the locks lightly, without significant effort, so as not to damage them.

Fasteners are driven in only through the nail holes. If the fastener is hammered into the material, it can crack and deform.

The fasteners do not rigidly fix the cladding. A small gap (1 mm) is required between the surface of the head and the cladding.

Closing of locks and mechanical fastening of ordinary elements is performed from the center towards the edges.

Make sure the foot of the fastener fits into the center of the hole in the panel.

The legs of nails, staples, self-tapping screws enter the crate without inclination, strictly perpendicularly.

The installation procedure for vertical panels is different. They are attached starting from the top. The fasteners are driven into the first hole as close as possible to the upper edge. In subsequent holes, the location of the fasteners is in the center. The step with which the mechanical fastening of the cladding is performed is:

• up to 20 cm for accessories;
• up to 30.5 cm for vertical panels;
• up to 40.5 cm for horizontal siding.

Installation of vinyl siding under strong wind load

For increased wind resistance, the cladding is shortened the distance between the fasteners. Additionally, nylon washers are used (diameter 15.88 mm, hole - 6.4 mm).

Installation of horizontal siding

Starting line

If the object is being reconstructed, it is possible to determine where the first row of cladding should begin based on the old finish. Check that its bottom edge is horizontal. If you are finishing the facade of a new home, place the first row to cover the top edge of the foundation. First mark out using a level so that the start row is horizontal around the entire perimeter. Additionally, control the verticality of the corners with a plumb line.

Accessories

Before the installation of ordinary panels, additional elements are installed. They are installed so that there is a space of 6.4 mm between the base and the cladding for ventilation. At this stage, the following components are installed.

Corner elements. Cut the corners with a 6.4 mm gap between the top edge and the overhang sheathing surface. Fastening starts from the top and is carried out immediately on both sides of the element. Nails are driven into the first fastening holes closer to their upper edge, into the subsequent ones closer to the center. With a high wall height, the corner elements are joined with an overlap of 2 cm, leading the lower corner element under the upper one. To make such an overlap, on the top panel, you need to trim the nail strip by 2.5 cm. The trimming is done so that all the elements are the same. In the lower part, Euromet engineers recommend mounting the corners in such a way as to leave a temperature gap (6-12.5 mm).

Initial profile. The markup done earlier shows where the bottom edge of the first row of panels goes. Above it, another horizontal line is drawn at a distance that is the width of the initial profile, reduced by 12.5 cm. The upper edge of the initial profile is aligned with this marking. It is fastened with nails with a pitch of 20-25 cm. A distance of 12.5 mm is left between adjacent profiles, and a distance of 6 mm is left between the edge of the profile and the corner.

Window decoration. Insulation is installed under the window opening and on the sides of it, performing an overlap. The insulating material is positioned to allow water to drain over the nail holes of the top row panel. Next, the installation of platbands is performed. These can be ready-made components or structures from J-profiles.

The figure shows two options for cutting a profile when arranging a window frame. If you are making a vertical cut, cut the side of the profile in two places and fold back the resulting strip so that the water can flow down it. The bottom of the side part of the window frame is also trimmed, but the bar is bent towards the window. The upper part of the frame should be wider than the opening. Its lateral parts are used to cut channels for water flow. When making an angular cut, an overlap is made, the profile is brought to the window to connect the element with the upper channels.

Install in the upper and lower parts of the opening finishing overlays... You can also use them to decorate a wall joint with. Install the batten in advance under the bottom edge of the opening. Fasten the strip to the strip. It is important that the edges of the trim do not reach into the installed J-profile. To decorate the upper edge of the opening, the overlay is turned over and installed where the profiles are connected to the window frame. After installing the lining, the sections of the frame connection with the opening frame are treated with a sealant.

At the last stage, the ebb is installed. A J-profile is used to isolate it. When installing the ebb, "ears" are cut on the sides, which are bent over the profiles. The ebb can be attached to the batten strip if you want to keep the corner of the panel.

Installation of ordinary panels

The panels of the first row are inserted into the initial profile and fastened with nails. Fastening is performed so that the panel is displaced sideways a short distance. Fasteners are installed every 40.5 cm. If an increased wind load is expected, this interval is reduced to 20 cm. In the areas of connection of ordinary panels with additional elements, temperature gaps of 6-9.5 mm are left. If installing siding in cold weather, increase the gap to 12.5mm.

For the correct execution of the joints, you can navigate by the factory marks on the panels. Place them on top of each other up to half the size of such marks. To make the cladding look neat, the specialists of the Euromet company do not recommend making such joints on the visible parts of the facade or performing them in steps, maintaining an interval of 61 cm horizontally in adjacent rows. It is desirable that the joints at the same level vertically be performed no more often than once in four rows. If you are making an overlap, nail it up to 15 cm from the edges of adjacent panels.

Installation of ordinary panels next to openings

Before starting installation, measure the distance between the bottom edge of the top-mounted panel lock and the bottom edge of the finishing strip lock. Add 16 mm to the distance obtained and trim the panel to obtain an element of the given width. Make holes with a punch every 20 cm and bend the strips towards the front side of the panel. Place the upper edge of the element into the terminal strip, fasten the locks along the lower edge. To fit the panels above the openings, they are cut from below, providing a gap on the sides of 9.5 mm so that when installed, the lower edge of the resulting element is fixed in the final strip.

Installation of ordinary panels around protruding elements

Fasteners, fixtures for lamps and other elements during the installation of ordinary panels are decorated with the help of special accessories. Another option is to make cutouts in row panels. At the same time, temperature gaps of 6 mm are additionally provided. If there are obstacles, panels begin to be installed away from them in order to reduce the number of overlaps.

Decorating the top edge of the walls

The installation of the top row panel is carried out in the same way as under the openings. If the gables are cladding, J-profiles are installed along their corners. Ordinary panels are trimmed to obtain the desired angle. The soffit is installed in the J-profile, taking into account the temperature gap.

Joints of vertical and horizontal row panels

To perform such a joint, after installing the last row of horizontal row panels, a J-profile or a finishing strip is mounted, and an ebb is installed. Every 60 cm, holes 6 mm long are made in the upper section of the J-profile for water drainage.

Installation of vertical siding

Before starting work, it is planned how the vertical panels will be placed on the facade. Drainage holes are pre-drilled in the J-profile with a step of 30.5 cm. The panels are fastened from the upper fastening hole. The fasteners are placed at its upper edge. Then the elements are aligned and fixed completely. At the same time, nails or self-tapping screws are placed in the center of the mounting holes.

When using lathing, the planks are placed horizontally at a distance of 30.5 cm. It is possible to use a solid base. The backing material must be such that the legs of the screws or nails enter it to a depth of at least 2 cm.

The starting strip is installed vertically. The line of its installation is planned in advance. Before installing ordinary panels, the corners are mounted and the J-profiles are inserted into their gaps, leaving a distance of 6.4 mm to compensate for thermal expansion.

The J-profile is also installed along the eaves, around window and door openings. At the joints of a vertically and horizontally installed J-profile, the horizontal element is brought out 6.5 mm further than the vertical one. The protruding section is trimmed and folded back to drain the water.

Ordinary vertical siding panels are installed from the corners. For this:

• the channel of the corner element is filled with a long and narrow (5 cm) board;
• the edge of the finishing strip is inserted into the filled channel of the corner piece;
• the lock of the first panel is cut off, the slots are made with a punch with a step of 30.5 cm, the strips cut out by the punch are bent towards the front surface of the siding;
• the prepared panel is installed in the final strip, fixed;
• then the siding is installed using locks and fasteners.

Measure the length of the wall before installing the cladding. It is important that the outer panel fits into the receiving channel of the terminal strip. If you cannot use the whole number of panels, the last element is trimmed.

On the gables the vertical siding is installed by leveling it so that the joint of the panels coincides with the top of the pediment.

The cladding is performed as follows:

• J-profiles are installed along the perimeter of the gable with an overlap;
• a vertical line is drawn from the top of the pediment;
• if ordinary panels are installed from the center, an H-profile and starting strips are installed on the central vertical line;
• if installation is carried out from the edge, make sure that the joint of the panels falls on the center of the gable.

If you cannot use a whole number of panels when mounting from the edge or from the center, the panels will have to be trimmed at the edges. For this:

• from the center line on the pediment, measure the distance corresponding to the maximum possible number of whole panels, mark the line that corresponds to the edge of the last whole panel;
• 3 cm from it towards the center of the pediment, a vertical line is drawn, which marks the edge of the first vertical panel;
• measure the obtained distance and trim the row panel taking into account the temperature gap.

To correctly perform the joint with the roof overhang, do the following:

• when installing ordinary panels, they control the correctness of their location. It is important to strictly adhere to the vertical. Additionally, they control the distance to the center of the pediment;
• if required, the location of the panels is corrected, gradually shifting them within the lock joints;
• the panels are installed so that the locking part is directed from the center of the wall to its edge.

The J-profile is installed 12.7 mm from the roof. The element cannot be mounted on the roof; it is used as a separator between the siding cladding and the roof structure.

Installation of spotlights

Finishing pad
Ventilated soffit

For fixing spotlights, two profiles are installed opposite each other. The first is mounted on the wall, the second is located parallel to the frontal board. They must have receiving gutters for installing spotlights.

The method of mounting the profile on the frontal board is chosen according to the configuration of the roof. Fastening is performed every 30-40 cm with galvanized nails.

If the canopy is already installed, install the J-profile on the wall. Mount the receiving chute opposite it. Soffits, if required, are trimmed in width, taking into account a gap of 6.5 mm. After installation, the panels are fastened together and fastened with nails. If the soffit is installed in place of a previously used molding or lining, check if the surfaces require alignment. If necessary, when preparing the base, you can assemble and install the crate.

If the soffit is installed under open rafters, an F-profile is attached to the wall. An F-profile or J-chamfer is installed on the frontal board to form a receiving groove. The soffit panel is trimmed, if necessary, and installed in the receiving troughs. If panels wider than 60 cm are installed, they are additionally fastened with nails in the central part. To decorate the ends of the soffits, J-profiles are used, fixed on the rafter beams located along the edges.

You can use a simple or complex method to decorate the corners. To perform a complex corner, an H-profile is installed along its diagonal, the soffit panels are trimmed and their edges are inserted into the receiving grooves of the installed profile. The panels are trimmed so that their grooves form V-shaped corners with the apex on the surface of the H-profile to keep the siding neat and tidy.

Installing a chamfer

Installed using a finishing strip. It is attached along the upper edge of the frontal board from the outside. A chamfer bar is inserted into the receiving chute. It is trimmed to the width if required. The width of the strip is equal to the width of the frontal part of the frontal board, increased by 16 mm. At the joints of adjacent planks, an overlap of 2.5 cm is performed, cutting off the locking part for this. The joint is secured with a nail through a pre-drilled nail hole.

Fastening the chamfer plank to the board

When installing a regular chamfer, the nail is driven into it without preliminary preparation of the hole. Soffits can also be fixed with nails on the frontal board. If the soffit is nailed to the board, a temperature gap is left on the opposite side for its expansion.

Caring for vinyl siding

Vinyl siding is a practical, affordable and undemanding material to maintain. In order for such a facade finish to last a long time, it is important to observe the following recommendations:

• the lining is washed with water from a garden hose;
• remove heavy dirt with soft bristled brushes;
• if the contamination is not washed off with water, wash it with a weak solution of 2 parts trisodium phosphate and 1 part detergent. Immediately after application, the solution is washed off from the siding surface;
• if mold develops on the surface of the cladding, use the solution described above with the addition of a liter of sodium hydrochloride (5%) per 3 liters of water;
• in some cases it is allowed to use abrasive cleaning agents.

For washing the cladding, it is prohibited to use products that contain organic solvents, agents that break down fats, solvents, etc. The components they contain will spoil the color or texture of the siding surface.

Of the huge variety of finishing wall materials, siding stands out for the simplicity of the operations carried out in terms of its installation on facades. Regardless of the raw materials from which this material is made, installing siding with your own hands is a real process, because it is universal. That is, whether it is vinyl siding, metal, wood or fiber-cement mortar, it is mounted on the crate. So the most important thing is to correctly install the frame structure on the wall.

There are several options, a regular hacksaw, a circular saw, hand scissors, and a sharp knife.

If you are using a circular saw, make sure the blade has fine teeth. If you are cutting vinyl siding, the saw needs to be set in the opposite direction; any other type of siding will only cut in the forward direction. Using scissors, you can cut elements of any shape and size. It is best to use protective goggles to cut and start cutting from the fastener upwards.

Siding frame

You can assemble the frame either from wooden blocks, or from a metal profile, which is used to install plasterboard sheets. Today, some siding manufacturers offer ready-made frame elements, which they sell complete with cladding.

The question of which frame is better: wooden or metal is asked by many novice home craftsmen.

Installation of the lathing

Before you mount the crate to the wall, you need to prepare the latter.

Wall insulation

For a facade that is clad with siding, it is best to use a slab thermal insulation material. This is mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. The main thing is to choose the exact thickness of the insulation. For central Russia, a thermal insulation layer thickness of 50-60 mm is suitable. Mineral wool and expanded polystyrene boards of this thickness are sold.

If the house is insulated and clad with siding in the northern region, then the thermal insulation layer should be at least 100 mm. And here there is a difficulty, because the antennae of straight suspensions have an attachment length of 80 mm. That is, the insulation is thicker. In this case, proceed as follows:

• wooden bars with a section of 50x50 mm are placed vertically on the walls along the outlined lines, which I do not align vertically;
• and already on them, direct suspensions are installed and fastened to them with self-tapping screws on wood.

There is a simpler and better option - a short bar of the same section is installed under each suspension, which is previously attached to the wall. And already a suspension to it. This is how the distance from the cladding to the wall surface increases, where an insulating layer even 130 mm thick will fit.

As for the installation of the insulation, through cuts are made in each plate with a knife so that the antennae of the suspensions can squeeze through them. Therefore, it is very important to accurately determine the location of the undercuts.

Attention! It is impossible to make large holes for direct suspensions. This will reduce both the strength characteristics of the insulation and the heat engineering.

The slabs themselves must be laid tightly to each other so that gaps do not form between them. If suddenly the cracks still remain, then they must be filled with foamed sealant. This is foam in a spray can, but not assembly foam. It does not expand in volume in air.

Continuing the assembly of the frame

A profile is mounted in one corner of the facade. It is exposed using a vertical level and attached to the antennae of the suspension with special self-tapping screws, which the craftsmen call bugs or seeds. Now four or five strong threads are tied to the profile, which are pulled to the opposite corner of the house. Here, each thread is exposed horizontally, previously attached to a self-tapping screw screwed into the wall. That is, the threads should form a plane that is even vertically and horizontally.

First, an angular profile is installed along them, attaching it to the suspensions, then the rest of the intermediate ones. Be sure to carry out the installation of profiles along the perimeter of window and door openings.

Siding assembly

Do-it-yourself sidig installation continues. We pass to the last stage - cladding. Despite the seeming simplicity of the process, there are several important nuances in it that affect the quality of the final result. Therefore, special attention should be paid to them.

Installing the starting guide rails

This cladding element must be installed perfectly level horizontally. Therefore, a self-tapping screw is temporarily screwed onto the corner rail, stepping back from its lower edge 5 mm. A strong thread is tied to it and pulled to the opposite corner of the building. They expose it horizontally and at this level, a self-tapping screw is also screwed on the corner profile, to which the free end of the thread is tied.

Attention!If all the front walls of the house are clad with siding, then all self-tapping screws screwed into the corner elements of the crate are tied with one thread around the perimeter.

Now you need to attach the corner siding profile to the corner of the house and mark their edges on the frame at the level of the stretched thread. Marks are made with a pencil or marker.

Further, it is necessary to retreat 6 mm horizontally from the edge of the corner profile, set the starting bar below the thread, but with its upper edge exactly along it, and fix it to the elements of the crate. Then the rest of the thread guides are installed. The main thing is to leave a gap of 1 cm between adjacent strips, which is compensatory. That is, it makes it possible for plastic products to expand under the influence of the rising temperature, without touching each other.

There is another option, in which the gap between the corner profile and the starting strip is formed by cutting off the nail (mounting) shelves. In which holes for fastening are made. They are simply cut to the width of the starting profile, and the latter is installed closer to the corner elements, but with a gap equal to the width of the mounting shelf.

Corner profile installation

There are no difficulties here, you just need to pay attention to two important points:

1. The bottom edge of the corner strip should be 5-6 mm lower than the starting profile.
2. The upper edge should not reach the soffits or other lining of the cornice by 3-4 mm.

And so the corner profile is applied to the corner of the building and is attached with self-tapping screws to the crate of two walls. The main thing is to set the corner exactly vertically.

The length of the corner strips is standard - 3 m. If the height of the wall is higher than this parameter, then you will have to mount two or three elements. They are installed with an overlap relative to each other with an offset of 2.5-3.0 cm. The upper one is laid on top of the lower one. In this case, the mounting shelves of the upper element are cut to a length of 3 cm. Be sure to leave an expansion gap between the mounting shelves of the two strips within the range of 8-10 mm.

If the house has internal facade corners, then special corner profiles are used for them. Their installation is carried out in the same way as for the outer corners.

How to get around windows and doors - chipping doorways

Difficulties with openings should not be. For their design, either special platbands are used, which are now offered by many siding manufacturers, or starting profiles. Their length is 3 m, so that one element can be used to close both the window opening and the door. That is, you do not need to dock anything with each other.

Side elements are aligned vertically, top and bottom horizontally. The main thing is that the upper bar should overlap the side ones so that precipitation does not flood under the cladding.

If the windows and doors are not located in the same plane of the wall, that is, they are recessed into the facade, then a special corner element is used to frame them. It is called that - window. To do this, a finishing profile is mounted along the perimeter of the window end-to-end to the frames. The spike of the corner element will be inserted into its groove. And the corner itself is attached with self-tapping screws to the metal frame profiles, which were installed along the perimeter of the opening.

Let us add that the width of the corner shelves on the market is represented by several dimensional parameters. This is done so that it is convenient to choose an element depending on the depth of the window or door.

Siding installation step by step instructions

Do-it-yourself siding installation is the simplest process of all the above. You need to start from the corner of the house. The panel is inserted with its lateral edge into the corner element, with the lower edge into the starting plate. Do not be too lazy to check if it is horizontal.

Fastening is done with self-tapping screws on the elements of the crate. The length of the siding varies in the range of 2.5-4 m, so the length of the wall may not be covered by one panel. Therefore, they are joined together with a special profile. It is called the H-profile. Its structure has two grooves on different sides that accommodate two adjacent siding panels. The H-profile itself is attached to the frame in the same way as the corner one. By the way, its installation is carried out before the installation of siding panels.

In this way, all the rows are collected to the last. In this case, every third row must be checked for horizontalness.

Now, regarding the installation of the last row. Firstly, a finishing J-profile is mounted near the roof overhang cladding with an indent of 3 mm. Secondly, the distance is measured from it to the edge of the penultimate siding panel. It is good if this distance is equal to the width of the siding. That is, the panel fits exactly, covering the free space of the wall. If the size is less than the width of the panel, then it is transferred to the siding, in which the upper part with the mounting shelf is cut for this value.

The so-called hooks are made along the upper cut edge. In fact, these are cuts across the length of the panel, 2-3 cm long and 2-3 cm wide. The pitch of the hooks is 20 cm. The cut strips are bent outward. Their purpose is to enter the groove of the finishing strip and spread it apart to create a tight connection.

Installation of the pediment

We follow by analogy with the installation of wall panels, take into account the indents from the edge of 9 mm in warm weather and 6 mm in cold weather. installation is carried out around the perimeter, all fasteners are installed in the center of the holes. the last top element is attached to the top of the hole. For cladding, an internal profile or starting profile is suitable.

Take them into account and stick to them strictly.

1. It is better to lay siding from left to right, from bottom to top.
2. Self-tapping screws are screwed in strictly in the middle of the mounting groove perpendicular to the lathing elements.
3. Do not tighten the fasteners too much. Leave a small gap in case of thermal expansion of the material.
4. If nails are used as fasteners, and not self-tapping screws, then you need to purchase galvanized fasteners.
5. Fiber cement siding is attached to the frame with cleats.
6. If a wooden blockhouse is finished with siding, then you need to give time (at least six months) for the house to shrink.

Video - DIY siding installation instructions

Conclusion on the topic

So, do-it-yourself siding installation (step-by-step instructions are thoroughly disassembled) is not the most difficult process in the category of facade decoration. The main task is to correctly assemble the frame structure and strictly adhere to the nuances that were discussed above. If you follow the proposed instructions, you can be sure of the high quality of the final result.