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A clamp is a tool that resembles a hand vice, which is used to securely fix or glue two elements together. For example, in carpentry it is used to connect two planes while the adhesive solution dries. However, this tool is not always at hand, so you can resort to making a quick-release design yourself. To properly make a metal clamp with your own hands, you need to follow step-by-step instructions with photos and video master classes.

Design Features

A clamp can quickly fail, which is why it is so important to know how to make a homemade tool. The components of this metal structure are a lever part, a frame, clamp lips and a moving part.

What are the advantages of clamping tools:

A clamp can also be made from wood, but a metal structure is more practical and reliable. Its production does not require special knowledge and skills; you only need the use of welding equipment, a hacksaw and a torch. The entire process with step-by-step instructions is shown in the video.

Models of clamping tools are divided into the following classes based on the operation of mechanisms and structural features:

Manufacturing technology

A do-it-yourself metal clamp is much more reliable and practical than a wooden structure. To manufacture homemade units, you will need welding equipment and plumbing units.

Tools for making any type of clamp

1 option

Following the instructions, you can make a homemade clamp from metal reinforcement.

Option 2

To make a corner clamping tool with your own hands, we will need the following materials: steel scraps from a corner 40*40, 50*50 and 30*50 200 mm each, 2 F-shaped clamps and a strip 10*50 to 250 mm long.

Let's get started:

Purchasing clamps in hardware stores is quite expensive. Everyone wants to save themselves from unnecessary costs if there are alternative options. You may need several such tools at once, this is especially true when assembling, manufacturing or repairing pieces of furniture. Homemade clamps will replace your hand vice, as you can choose the model, type and size of the tool. By following the instructions in the photo and video, you can quickly understand the manufacturing mechanism and quickly make a manual clamp from scrap materials.

Often in the process of performing any work there is a need to quickly compress or fix parts. To solve this problem, a clamp is used - a type of auxiliary tool that is used, for example, for gluing parts, performing welding work and other work.

Homemade clamps usually made of either wood or metal. This tool has many varieties, and they also differ in clamping mechanisms. Now this tool can be easily purchased at any specialized store or ordered online, but you can also make the required clamp with your own hands, and in its properties this homemade tool will not be inferior to factory models.

Types of clamps

Nowadays there is enough a large number of varieties of clamps, which differ in size, scope and other parameters. For example, the following varieties of this tool are popular, which you can make with your own hands:

This tool also differs in clamping mechanisms:

• Corner;
• Screw;
• Quick-release;
• Lever.

Homemade quick-release clamp

Let's consider the option of making a quick-release clamp with your own hands, with which you can use one hand quickly secure parts with each other and fix them on the workbench for further work. This design can be used for woodworking, furniture repair, shoe repair, and so on. As an option, quick-clamping tools can be used not only for compressing workpieces, but also for work when spacers of parts are needed.

To make a clamp with your own hands, we will need a sealant gun and a wooden block measuring 500x50x40 mm. To make sponges we will use two rectangular bars measuring 10x80x20 mm. To use the gun, it needs to be modified; to do this, you need to cut off the part where the nose of the sealant bottle rests and use a hammer to align the plate that connects the gun itself with the removed part. Then we attach the gun with this plate to the wide side bar 500x50x40 mm. using self-tapping screws.

In this design, the bars for the jaws will move along a 500x50x40 bar; for this purpose, we make through square holes in these bars. We put one of the jaws on a large block and securely fasten it with self-tapping screws to the press circle of the gun. Next, putting on the second sponge, we drill several through holes through the clamp into a large block. Several holes are made so that the width can be adjusted. For fixation we will use a bolt with a nut of suitable diameter.

As a result, it turns out that when you press the gun trigger mechanism, the press will move one jaw to another along the block. In places where the jaws come into contact with the parts, you need to install inserts made of soft material, such as rubber or plastic. Compression force of a self-made clamp can reach 300 kg, installation work can be done with one hand. Removing the clamp also occurs with one click.

A fairly simple design of a corner clamp can be made with your own hands in a home workshop, since the factory analogue is quite expensive. The material from which this type of clamp will be of the highest quality is iron.

Initially, we make the base of the structure from sheet metal approximately 10 mm thick. Next, the base of the structure is made. To do this, we weld two corners together at an angle of 90 degrees; in the manufacture of this structural element, precision is required due to the fact that these corners act as stationary clamping jaws. Before welding the corners, you need to weld nuts to each of them, which will serve to move the movable jaws. Holes for bolts are drilled in two more corners. Next, these bolts are screwed into nuts and with its head they pull the movable angle, which achieves compression and tension of the fastening elements.

In order to increase the length on the sides of the grip, you can make a structure resembling a compass from two metal profiles connected at the end with a sleeve and a bolt. Having made two bushings that match the shape of the profile, a clamping screw is made on one side of the bushing, and on the other side they are attached to the existing corners. All that remains is to put the bushings on the profiles and secure them with screws. This achieves a large distance between the grips and makes it possible to work with large objects.

DIY corner clamp created has the advantage Compared to factory models, first of all, variety and cost. And also such a tool will have increased strength and reliability.

With its square nest design, making panels is a very common task in carpentry. In fact, trees of such thickness that you can cut out, say, a tabletop from them are not very common and there are not enough of them for everyone. Moreover, wide boards are often specially chopped into small pieces and re-glued. This greatly reduces the likelihood of their warping and cracking in their subsequent furniture incarnation.

The gluing process itself contains a number of important points - thickness, orientation of layers, glue thickness, which will be discussed later, but now we are talking about a mechanism for convenient compression of pre-prepared wooden blanks. This is a specialized clamp - vayma. To glue one board, use at least two clamps.

Here it should be said that there is a way to fasten workpieces with these “teeth”, which allows you to increase the gluing area and, accordingly, its strength. Practice, however, shows that since the use of “samovar” wood glue from dry tiles, the chemical industry has stepped far forward, and now, any gluing of even ends is stronger than the main wood. In any case, their coniferous varieties, from which shields are usually glued. Therefore, planing is quite enough.

So, the possible options.

Analysis of existing analogues.

The solution is “head-on”. It’s more convenient than gluing it directly on the workbench, but not by much. The only plus is the simplicity of the design. The base, however, must be very rigid, especially for any significant length.

When gluing, additional simple carpentry clamps and an even strip along the width of the board are required to prevent it from bending under load. However, with infrequent work, the design is quite justified; some complication of the technology can be easily survived.

Symmetrical design. In general, it logically follows from the previous, simple one. The end stops are movably attached to two flat sidewalls. When an axial force is applied, the sidewalls are simultaneously compressed.

Several options for end stops.

The blue version, in addition to painting, is notable for the fact that most of the details are standard - large hardware, a rectangular pipe.

There was even a do-it-yourself construction kit. “Tooths” for stepwise changes in the width of the workpiece will make it easier to push the mechanism onto the workpiece. It is proposed to make the most large and inconvenient parts to store and transport yourself from hard wood. Therefore, the set, presumably, costs a penny.

Practice, however, shows that no matter how careful you are, there will still be glue on the clamps, which can be peeled off from the pieces of iron without damaging them, even using very crude methods, including using an angle grinder. Wooden parts will either have to be protected with rough wooden gaskets, or simply changed frequently. Both are not very convenient.

Homemade metal analogue.

It can be seen that there are no special stop pads here, therefore, in order not to spoil the edges of the future shield with dents, a technological gasket made of wood is placed.

Less obvious clamp design – asymmetrical. The solution is ingenious, simple and elegant.

Our response to Chamberlain.

MASHKOV: Astronauts! Which zappa is here?
BI: There, a rusty nut, dear.
MASHKOV: Everything here is rusty!
BI: And this one is the rustiest.

Kin-Dza-Dza!

I offer my version of symmetrical clamps. The clamps are made without the use of stationary equipment - only with hand tools. Electric welding was used a little, but this was more due to the delight of a neophyte - in those days, he was just mastering the welding inverter and applying the new skill wherever possible.

The materials used were only standard hardware and two types of rolled metal - a rectangular pipe and a strip. Four identical wedges were made, with their help many different blanks were glued together, both of a purely utilitarian nature and for decorative ones.

The size of the clamps is for boards of moderate size, with a maximum width of approximately 700...750 mm, however, you can connect the clamps in pairs and glue large boards in two steps. The length of the shield depends on the number of clamps and with four pieces, it can reach 1...1.5 m. A number of symmetrical holes on the sides of the clamp allows you to easily rearrange its back stop, for convenient work when tightening narrow panels.

The design of the upper screw clamp is simple and technological; the materials for it are also standard rolled products and hardware, which is a big advantage in conditions of lack of access to machine tools.

The body of the screw clamp is made from a section of the same rectangular pipe 40x25, inside it there is an M12 extension nut.

The nut is held only by the threaded rod and the walls of the housing; the narrow side of the housing does not allow the nut to turn. When unscrewing the stud, the nut simply falls out of the body. The solution is very repairable - in case of thread damage, the elements are easily replaced with standard inexpensive hardware.

The back stop is also made from a piece of 40x25 mm pipe, held by two pairs of earrings. To compensate for the thickness of the “overlap,” two standard M10 washers are placed under one of the pairs, on each side (see photo below).

"Compensation" washers.

What was used for the job.

Tools, equipment.

A set of ordinary plumbing tools, a good vice, a hand-held electric drill. Marking tool - tape measure, square, scriber or alcohol felt-tip pen. For cutting pieces of iron - angle grinder. An electric sharpener will come in handy. Welding was used in some places, but it can be done without it. When working with electric tools, be sure to use safety glasses and headphones.

Materials.

Rectangular pipe 40x25, strip stud with M12 thread, bolts, nuts, M10 washers.

Let's get started. Sidewalls.

We decide on the required number of clamps and purchase the necessary materials.

We cut pieces of a rectangular pipe, mark them, and mark the centers of the holes. If you have a machine, you can drill from one side, right through, but if you work with a hand tool, it is better not to be lazy and additionally mark and drill the reverse side. It is better to drill holes in metal with a relatively large diameter at low speeds. It is convenient to work with a hammer drill in drilling mode, while its clamp is equipped with a small three-jaw drill chuck with a simple adapter. Often, such equipment is included in the hammer drill kit. High power and low speeds make working with such a tool very convenient.

After cutting and drilling, do not forget to dull the sharp edges.

We cut, mark, drill. I marked the rounded edges without any fuss - by applying a suitable coin. We grind the edges on a sharpener, dulling the sharp edges. With a magic file, in a vice.

Earring. 8 pcs. Material – strip 20x5 mm.

Screw clamp, back stop.

I cut the threaded rods to the required length and welded a long “connecting” nut to one end.

Sketch of a screw clamp, where: 1,2 – extension nut M12; 3 – body (pipe 40x25 mm); 4 – threaded rod M12.

If there is no access to welding work, the screwed nut can be drilled and a transverse rocker arm with stops can be inserted into it, in the manner of a vice gate. The rest is obvious.

The corner clamp and other models of this device belong to the assistant tools that are necessary for fixing parts during processing or for tightly compressing parts together, for example, during the gluing process.

Carpentry clamps are made from metal and wood. Some elements for non-stationary fastenings may also be called clamps, but this is incorrect. Meat grinders, table lamps, vices, and the like have similar fixation. The main difference between a clamp is that, once installed on a surface, you can work with both hands, although recently models have appeared that allow you to use only one hand.

There is a type of these devices called lever ones. They differ in that they are based not only on a system of axes, but also on levers. They are often called clamps or clamps, as well as quick-clamping devices, systems for quick fixation. All you need to do is apply a little force, and a decent clamping force is instantly created. In order to quickly secure a part, you only need to perform one movement - move the clamping handle. The simplest manual clamp consists of a main frame or bracket and moving elements with clamps; this can be either a screw or a lever. Its purpose is not only to fix the moving part, but also to adjust the compression force.

The main difference between different models of clamps is their mechanism. Therefore, the following classes are often distinguished:

• screw;
• installation;
• corner;
• quick-release;
• manual.

When choosing this tool, you need to pay attention to the working stroke, as well as the distance to which the locking elements can move apart. The most practical devices are those that have the highest listed indicators. With larger parameters, you can use larger parts in your work; dimensions can vary in different models from 20 to 350 mm. Now let's say a few words about each type of clamp.

Screw-type devices are distinguished by the fact that they have a screw and the handle is T-shaped. When turning the handle, the jaws begin to compress, and when rotating in the opposite direction, they begin to unclench. Such clamps are often used to secure pipes when working with plumbing fixtures. The corner clamp is used to support workpieces at right angles. This can be a variety of locksmith work. They are considered very durable because duralumin is used for their production, and they are convenient for metalwork because they have special mounting holes so that they can be used.

The design of such clamps is good for holding frame elements or corners, as well as other similar parts while gluing them.

The mounting clamp is designed to secure and clamp reinforced concrete slabs and other materials that are used in the construction of buildings or structures. For this work, clamps are made from especially strong metals. This allows them to be used for securing heavy structures during construction or repair work. Although it performs complex and responsible work, the design of such a clamp is very simple, the drawing clearly indicates this. It is considered the most reliable.

Workers without special qualifications can easily handle its use and repair. This type of device is also used to secure pipes and other communication elements. With their help, you can securely secure round or oval parts with different diameters. The main difference between this type of clamp is that there are several attachment points, so working with them will ensure a reliable connection of the pipeline pieces, and the structure will be well prepared for welding work.

Quick-release clamps are called the most effective. Often when working with parts there are cases of their displacement due to force.. It’s good if the reaction is immediate, and you can move the clamp handle with your hand and lock it more securely. Therefore, quick-release clamps have linings attached, and the system of axes and levers allows you to operate the clamp with only one hand.

A hand clamp is also called a spring clamp. It has two handles, and if you move them apart, the main clamping parts will also instantly move apart, and when performing the reverse actions, they will close together and fix any object. Due to the existing spring mechanism, the user's efforts are greatly reduced. This type of clamp is used when it is necessary to glue small parts or hold small objects made of non-solid materials: cardboard, wood, plastic. In addition to the main types of clamps, there are also unique or highly specialized ones. There are also a lot of them, the following options are often found: cam, wedge, corner, with deep grooves, special for chairs.

If you want your own clamp to help you in your work, we will try to make an option with our own hands that has the simplest design.

A pair of holes are drilled on them so that the nuts and studs are pressed very tightly against each other. In order for the device to be stable and durable, the lower beam must be placed tightly on a horizontal plane, that is, flat, and the upper beam must be placed on the contrary with its edge towards the table top. Then you need to install plywood boards and attach a block to them, which will be attached to the surface of the table. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the bottom edge of the boards is at least 3 cm below the block. All these elements, and there are three of them, are drilled through. They will be needed to insert the studs a little later.

Step 3: Making the Clamp

One plank must be firmly fixed to the bottom bar. The second board will act as a clamp. This design will grip using a movable plywood strip, and with the help of short pins the clamp will be attached to the table surface. Long pins are needed to determine the working stroke, and nuts are needed to fix the moving part and adjust the clamping force. Their role in this design is to be levers. You have learned how to make a clamp, but you should understand that homemade tools have a low level of strength. But for doing simple housework they will be good helpers.