For various reasons, it is necessary to transplant gooseberries in a summer cottage: overgrown bushes, an initially improperly selected place or allocation of territory for construction. Sometimes you have to completely remove all the bushes, sending them to a new place of residence. At the same time, it is important to adhere to certain rules so that plants take root more quickly.

When to transplant

Gooseberry transplant can be done in spring or autumn. Spring transplanting is less desirable since:

• the plant "wakes up" very quickly after winter dormancy, in connection with this it is difficult to choose the optimal time for the procedure, because the procedure must be performed before the sap flow begins;
• during the formation of kidneys, gooseberry roots are undesirable to injure, since the main forces of the plant are aimed at developing the upper part, and not strengthening the underground.

As a result, the transplanted bush adapts slowly, develops poorly, the quality of the crop decreases.

In the summer, it is also undesirable to transplant gooseberries, because at this time the green mass is growing, damaged roots will adapt for a long time.

It is better to give preference to the autumn procedure, because:

• the bush has already completed fruiting, so all the forces will be directed specifically to strengthening the root system, and not the development of the upper part;
• he gradually passes into a stage of rest, so he can easily adapt to new conditions;
• transplanting gooseberries in autumn is much easier than in spring.

It is better to transplant gooseberry bushes in the fall after falling leaves. The optimal time for a culture transplant to a new place is September-early October. A month or two and a half is enough for the bush to strengthen before the onset of frost.

Choosing a place for a gooseberry transplant

The correct plot is a certain guarantee that the bush will not just take root, but also increase fruiting. When choosing a place you need to consider the following nuances:

• currants and raspberries will not be the best neighbors or predecessors, because they have common pests and diseases with gooseberries that can be inherited;
• gooseberries can be transplanted after potatoes, legumes and beets, clovers or lupins;
• the culture loves sunlight and humidity, but wetlands with stagnant water should be avoided: under such conditions, a fungus develops well against which many gooseberry varieties do not have protective immunity;
• the place must be protected from the winds.

An important role is played by the type of soil on which the crop will grow. It should have the following characteristics:

1. Ease. Gooseberries grow well on loam. Heavy soil can be alleviated by adding sand and peat, while clay that is too light is desirable.
2. Weak acidity. To check it, put a few leaves of currant or cherry in a container, fill them with boiling water (0.5 l), cover. When the water cools, a lump of tested soil is sent to it. If the water remains green, then the acidity is normal, if it turns red it is acidic, and the bluish blue indicates insufficient acidity. Acidity can be reduced by adding lime or dolomite flour.
3. Fertility. So that the bush can receive from the soil the nutrients necessary for it to restore strength and development.

Having picked up a site, they dig it up and clean it, removing all plant debris, mark out places for planting. After that, they go directly to the procedure.

How to transplant gooseberries

There are two ways to transplant a gooseberry bush: together with an earthen lump or a seedling.

Planting a bush with a lump

Before planting, adult old gooseberries cut out all the old and excess shoots. As a result, no more than 7 of the youngest and most healthy branches should remain. They are shortened by 1/3.

Now you can dig up the bush. For this:

• dig it around the circumference at a distance of about 30 cm;
• chop the thick roots that stretch further;
• carefully remove the bush from the soil with a shovel and lay it on the film so that it can be transferred to a new place.

When transplanting a large bush of gooseberry, the diameter of the part to be dug is determined by the size of the crown and is taken out very carefully so as not to damage the numerous roots.

Further actions are carried out in stages:

1. Pit preparation. It is dug up about half a meter deep and slightly larger in diameter than the size of the bush. Several buckets of water are poured into it.
2. Installation of a bush.
3. Sleeping voids with a mixture of earth and compost.
4. Tamping soil.
5. Abundant watering of a bush fixed in the ground.
6. Dry falling asleep and mulching.

If a massive gooseberry transplant is planned, it is important to consider the following:

• the landing site is prepared in advance, pits can be dug right before landing, but it is better to outline their place in advance;
• shrubs are planted at a distance of 1.5-2 m;
• between the rows leave 1.3-1.5 m.
• transplant bushes one at a time in separate holes;
• if the diameter of the dug hole is small, then it is increased.

By transshipment, you can transplant a small plant at any time (except winter, of course). You only need to dig in a portion slightly larger than the crown, so that when digging out as little as possible damage the root system. Further - according to the general scheme. In August, very small gooseberry processes can be transplanted using the same method.

Planting a seedling

The main difference of a sapling is the root system cleared of the soil. That is why they cannot be stored for too long, and they adapt to the new conditions for a long time, because their roots were injured when digging and cleaning. For the spring landing of gooseberries, this option is definitely not suitable, since the roots do not have time to adapt before the sap flow begins.

For planting, take a young bush (no older than two years), on which there are at least three main roots with a length of about 15 cm. The adnexal roots must also be developed. The aerial part consists of two shoots about 40 cm long, freed from leaves.

The preparation of gooseberry seedlings for transplantation consists in removing unhealthy roots and stimulating the entire root system in a specially prepared talker (1 kg of clay and black soil, a bag of Kornevin and 6 g of Actara are taken for 3 liters of water).

Transplanting gooseberries in the fall to a new place with seedlings is similar to the previous method:

1. Prepare the pit.
2. A small mound of earth is poured into it.
3. Set a seedling on it vertically or slightly inclined so that the root neck is deepened by 7-10 cm.
4. Holding the trunk, they fill the soil, periodically compact it. At the same time, the bush is shaken a little so that the earth fills all the internal voids.
5. Shed and mulched, the branches are cut to the lower kidney.
6. For winter, seedlings are covered with sawdust.

Gooseberry care after transplantation is timely watering. Before the procedure, the mulch is removed, and after moisturizing, it is returned under the bush. Gooseberries do not need shelter for the winter. It is enough just to warm with sawdust.

Spring is not considered the best time for transplanting gooseberries. In autumn, there is more time for the event, and weather conditions are more favorable for both planting and transplanting, however, if you do not miss the moment and observe all the details, the bush will not suffer and will yield the crop as usual.

Possible causes of transplantation

Gooseberry transplant in spring may be required in the following cases:

• when redeveloping the site;
• when thickening the berry, when initially the distance between rows and bushes was incorrectly calculated;
• when moving (when you want to pick your favorite variety to a new place of residence);
• with a lack of sunlight (neighboring trees have grown, new buildings have appeared on the site);
• if in the fall the landing was not thought out (the site turned out to be in the shade, wet, not blown).

On a note. Bushes up to 5 years old are best transplanted. Therefore, if a transplant is ripe, do not pull until the bush is hopelessly out of date.

Spring Transplant Dates

In different climatic conditions, the timing of a gooseberry transplant will vary. There is only one principle: do this procedure as soon as the earth warms up so that it can be dug. In the southern regions, this is the end of February, the beginning of March. In the north - the end of March, the beginning of April. If the buds began to blossom, it means that the roots woke up and are vulnerable to manipulation and it is better to transfer the transplant to autumn.

The transplant must be done before the sap flow begins. Only in this case, the bush will well transfer the move to a "new place of residence."

On a note. When the gooseberry bush has already “woken up”, you should not touch it, but postpone the transplant until autumn. In an extreme case - not a transplant, but a “transshipment” with a large lump of land.

The principle of selection of planting material

An ideal transplant bush looks like this:

• age from 2 to 5 years;
• the kidneys have not yet begun to grow;
• there are 3 or more powerful roots of at least 15 cm .;
• subordinate roots well developed;
• the aerial part has two or more strong shoots of 35-40 cm.

The younger the bush, the easier it will tolerate the transplant. Do not transplant bushes older than 5-6 years, as it will be difficult for them to adapt to a new place.

On a note. Bushes affected by diseases or pests, replanting does not make sense. They will not become healthier, the diseases will be transferred to a new habitat. Not the fact that weakened plants will survive. Time will be lost and gardener labor will be lost.

Step-by-step transplant instructions

Gooseberry transplantation consists of several stages that cannot be ignored. Compliance with all aspects will save time on caring for transplanted plants.

Seat selection

A sunny area protected from drafts and northerly winds is the best place for a gooseberry transplant. Normally, when the sun's rays fall on the plant for at least 5-6 hours a day.

Usually choose a place near the fence or outbuildings. Gooseberries do not respond well to waterlogging. If the infield is high groundwater, you need to look for a hill.

The soil should be light and fertile. Excess acidity is easily removed by lime, chalk, dolomite flour. Clay soil is improved by the addition of sand or peat. Well, if before that, potatoes, legumes or beets were grown on the site.

On a note. In order to avoid the transfer of diseases, it is not recommended to plant gooseberries in the area where the berry was laid from currant or old gooseberry bushes grew.

Cooking holes

The site is freed from weeds, roots, debris. Most likely, it will not work to dig out a landing hole. In the spring, after the earth breaks through with a bayonet of a shovel, it is expensive every day. Ideally, if the landing pits are dug in the fall.

Sizes required:

• maintain a distance of 1 meter to the fence and 3 meters to the building;
• the optimal distance between the bushes is 1.5 m, between the rows - 2 m .;
• the size of the pit depends on the bush, while the depth is not less than 50-60 cm, the diameter of the hole should exceed the size of the root system by 1.5 times.

To ensure that water around the roots does not stagnate in problem areas, drainage from pebbles, gravel, shell rock, and screenings is placed at the bottom of the landing pit.

The fertile top layer is mixed with rotted manure, wood ash. At least 10 kg must be added to each well. organics and 2-3 glasses of ash.

On a note. It will not be superfluous to introduce mineral fertilizer (100 grams of superphosphate) between the drainage and fertile layers.

Gooseberry preparation

They dig a bush, inspect. Sick roots and branches are cut with secateurs. The tips of the roots are carefully cut with a sharp pruner by 3-5 mm.

Next, you need to bring the aboveground part in accordance with the underground in size. To do this, the shoots are shortened, usually by a third, leaving 7-8 buds. This is the optimal size for the plant to tolerate the transplant normally.

If the place of transplantation is far, the roots for transportation are packed in polyethylene.

On a note. The following procedure carried out before planting improves the adaptation: lower the gooseberry root part for a few minutes into the clay mash, into which the Kornevin bag and 6 grams of Actara are added.

How to transplant

The transplantation algorithm is as follows:

• pour a hill of prepared fertile soil (over drainage) into the planting pit;
• establish a bush, supporting it vertically (you can bend, deepening the root neck by 8-10 cm.);
• they fall asleep with prepared fertile soil, shaking the bush to fill the voids, crushing each layer;
• pour a bucket of warm water;
• they fall asleep on top with mulch.

On a note. Humate (100 ml. Per 10 liters of water) can be added to water for irrigation. This will improve the survival rate of the plant with a prolonged cold spring.

Transplant Care

Transplanted bushes should be watered abundantly at least 1 time in 2 weeks. It is imperative to mulch the soil in the near-stem circle with a thick layer of mulch so that the earth does not dry out, the “newcomer” was not afraid of temperature changes.

Of great importance are the weather conditions. Transplanted plants are very dangerous spring frosts, as the natural process of preparation for fruiting is disturbed.

In the future, gooseberries require regular care: loosening the soil, weeding weeds and timely treatment from pests and diseases.

If the spring transplant is done according to the rules, the plant will avoid stress, further growth and development will take their course.

People planting berry crops in their plots are interested in when it is possible to transplant gooseberries to another place. Experienced gardeners advise replanting berries in the fall, when the gooseberry is preparing for the winter, and it slows down all processes. But transplanting gooseberries in some regions of the country is impossible in the fall due to early frosts. Therefore, the gardener has to choose a different season when transplanting gooseberries.

What time of year to transplant

Most often, the transfer of bushes is carried out in the spring. For a plant, this is not the best time, because it refers to crops that are among the first to start blooming. If the buds burst on the stem, then you can’t touch the bushes, otherwise the plant will die. Therefore, the transplantation of gooseberries in the spring to a new place is carried out in March, when the bush has not yet come out of hibernation. At the same time, the roots of the plant must be minimally damaged, otherwise all the work will be wasted, and the crop will be scarce.

gooseberry

Methods of transplanting bushes

Gardeners are often interested in how to transplant gooseberries in the spring to a new place. Breeders apply 2 transfer methods:

1. Gooseberry bush can be planted and propagated by seedlings;
2. Transplanting bushes to a new place to produce with a lump of land.

The disadvantage of the first method is that plants with open roots, from which they shook the ground, can not be stored for a long time. Such seedlings cannot develop normally, plants often get sick. For such transfers, the best time is autumn, when the gooseberry suffers stress, the overwintered plant in practice gives the maximum yield.

With a lump of land on the roots, gooseberries are recommended to be carried in the spring, but one should take into account the lunar calendar in order to choose the optimal transplant regime suitable for the area where the gardener lives. It is known from experience that during spring transplants, if all conditions and procedures are met, up to 70-80% of berry bushes normally develop.

Important! You can’t try to plant bushes in any summer month, because summer is contraindicated for any transplantation of berry crops.

Transplant sequence

Gardeners often ask how to transplant gooseberries to a new place, so that the berry will take root more quickly. Correct  The transplant method involves the following operations:

1. First, the gardener visually assesses what the appearance of the bush to be transferred to another bed. If the plant is very thickened, then old or broken branches are removed from it. The remaining stem is cut to a third of the length;
2. It is necessary to carefully form an earthen lump on the roots of the plant. To do this, dig in the soil around the gooseberry at a distance of 0.3 m in the form of a ring. This will save the root system of the bushes from damage, and the plants themselves will receive minimal stress;
3. If the soil contains a lot of clay, you get a good compact lump. In the presence of friable, loose soil, the sides of the dug ring are placed in a fabric (burlap), and then tightly bandaged. Instead of burlap, synthetic materials, such as geotextiles, are often used;
4. The bottom of the thus formed lump on the roots of gooseberries is separated by a shovel from the ground, and then removed from the resulting pit. The plant with the lump is transferred to a new bed, where a pit has been previously dug, which is 2 times larger (width and depth) than the diameter of the lump of earth on a portable bush;
5. At the bottom of the new pit, nutrient soil is added, which is watered for better compaction. It is recommended to sprinkle the earth until the level of the edge of the pit exceeds the earthen lump on the transplanted plant by 50 mm. The space between the walls of the pit and the lump of soil on the roots is trampled, and then a trunk circle is made. Its diameter should be larger than the crown of the bush. The bulk shaft in height should not exceed 100-150 mm.

Soil and fertilizer requirements

In order for the gooseberry to take root in a new place, it is desirable that the soil is a light loam with acidity with a pH from 6.5 to 7.

sand and soil

If the site is heavy soil, then it is diluted with coarse sand. When the soil on the bed is loose, then it must be carefully compacted.

When the pH of the soil on the beds is less than 6, the berries will be acidic and small, therefore it is recommended to improve this indicator until a neutral reaction is obtained.

Important! To support the plant in a new place, it is recommended that it be fed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. It contributes to the development of new roots that allow gooseberries to adapt to the new garden.

To improve the health of gooseberries, drugs like “Kornevin”, “Agroekol”, etc. are used in the new garden.

The buttock takes root in 20 days. A sign of good condition of the bush is the appearance of new leaves on it. After that, after 14-15 days, it is recommended to feed the plants. For this, nitrogen fertilizers are used. They allow gooseberries to grow green mass.

Feeding is carried out in the morning or late evening, after the next watering.

Immediately after moving the bush to a new location, nitrogen mixtures are not recommended. We must wait until the plants take root. To do this, you can use both industrial fertilizers containing nitrogen and bird droppings.

Before fertilizing, gooseberries are recommended to water well.

Watering transplanted plants is carried out with water having a temperature of 15 ° C. The volume of fluid for one irrigation can reach 30 liters. In the summer, gooseberries are watered 2 times in 6-7 days, until the last days of June. In July, the interval between watering is increased to 14 days. Water must be applied not only to the soil, but also to pour liquid over the crown of the plant.

A transplant for a berry brings stress, so gooseberries need a rehabilitation period. To preserve gooseberries, mulching is recommended. For this, the trunk circle after watering is immediately mulched. At the same time, covering materials such as:

• grass peat in the form of dry crumbs;
• well rotted, crushed manure;
• sawdust obtained during the processing of hardwood;
• tree bark;
• small chips.

mulching

Mulching protects the berry shrubs from weeds. If weeds still appear, they are destroyed by weeding, tearing dangerous plants from the root.

Gardeners should be aware that in spring, transplants rarely go perfectly. For example, there are frequent cases when the gooseberry branches break down, and the branches do not come off, but they do not grow further. They must be cut to develop whole shoots. It is recommended to destroy those bushes that did not survive the procedure and became ill so that they do not cause the development of fungal and bacterial infections characteristic of berry crops.

Spring terms and conditions

It’s difficult to name the exact dates of berry transplantation in the spring, because they are different for different regions of the country. Earthwork is recommended only when the soil dries to such an extent that it becomes possible to dig with a shovel without effort.

If there is a lot of snow on the site, or it rained in the spring, the terms of the transplant procedures are postponed for 1-2 weeks. But then there is a danger that buds will begin to bloom on the gooseberry, which will make transplantation impossible.

Advice! If everything is fine, then the transplant should begin immediately after the snow melts and the soil dries. Most often, plant transfer occurs on March 10-15, when snowdrifts no longer exist in many regions.

The best time for spring berry transplantation is the first or second week of March. If this was not possible, then the operation will have to be postponed to autumn, for example, to the end of October.

Video

Summer residents who have already bought a seedling that has attracted attention (or are still just gathering) are puzzled by how to plant a gooseberry correctly so that it takes root and in the near future will gladden a good harvest. Such doubts are very justified, because in order for the plant to take root, you need to observe a number of rules. What you need to know in order for the spring planting of the “northern grapes” (gooseberries) in open ground to be successful? Let's consider the main nuances further.

One of the most important questions asked by gardeners is the question of when to plant gooseberries in spring in open ground.

We answer: it is optimal to plant gooseberry seedlings in early spring, immediately after the snow melts, until the earth has completely dried out (in a humid environment, plants take root well without additional watering), in other words, you need to catch the buds on the shoots of the bush, i.e. before gooseberries enter vegetation (\u003d the plant must still sleep).

If you have a seedling with a closed root system (ZKS), i.e. Since you bought it in a container, and it is in this form that they are often sold, it can be planted later. In general, seedlings with ZKS can be planted year-round (even in summer).

When to plant - in spring or autumn

Many gardeners who decide to grow a crop in their area are interested in when it is better to plant gooseberries in spring or autumn.

The answer is very simple! It is possible to plant a bush both in the early spring, and in the fall.

However, it is believed that it is best to plant berry bushes in the fall (2-4 weeks before the onset of frost).

Video: how to plant gooseberries in the fall - especially planting and care

When to plant in the spring in different regions

Naturally, depending on climatic features, the dates for spring planting of gooseberries in different regions differ:

• In the south of Russia you can plant gooseberries in March or early April.
• Gardeners in the Middle Strip and Moscow Region should plant it no earlier than April.
• In Siberia and the Urals, gooseberries can be planted in open ground only in late April or early May.

According to the lunar calendar in 2019

Choosing the best date for planting seedlings can help you moon calendar.

So, favorable days for the spring planting of gooseberries in 2019, according to the lunar calendar,  are:

• in April - 11-17; 21-26.

Yes, this is not a mistake, it is recommended to plant seedlings of fruit and berry crops according to the lunar calendar only in April.

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to get to the cottage on favorable days, so the main thing is not to land during periods unfavorable on the lunar calendar (new moon, full moon).

Unfavorable days, according to the lunar calendar, for 2019for planting gooseberry seedlings in spring are the following dates:

• in March - 6, 7, 21;
• in April - 5, 19;
• in May - 5, 19;
• in June - 3, 4, 17.

According to the lunar calendar, from the magazine "1000 Tips for the summer resident."

How to plant gooseberries in spring: features, requirements and step-by-step instructions

For the spring landing of gooseberries to be successful, you need:

• buy a quality seedling;
• choose a suitable place on the site;
• prepare and refuel the landing pit;
• properly plant the seedling;
• comply with simple but mandatory rules of care after planting.

Video: gooseberry planting rules

How to choose and prepare a seedling for planting

When choosing a gooseberry seedling, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• Seedlings should have a healthy appearance, without any signs of disease (glass, powdery mildew, etc.) and mechanical damage.
• When buying seedlings with an open root system (ACS), it is very advisable to purchase exactly 2-year-old specimens.

Seedlings with a closed root system (ZKS) can be purchased both 1 year old and 2 years old.

• A 2-year-old seedling should have at least 2-3 strong shoots, at least 20-30 cm long and have a well-developed root system, at least 20-25 cm long.

On the seedling in the container (with ZKS) there should be a lot of leaves, and the length of the shoots should be about 30-50 cm. It is quite difficult to evaluate the root system, but it is possible. The seedling should sit firmly in the container, this will mean that the roots are well braided by an earthen lump and the plant was originally grown this way.

Video: how to choose gooseberry seedlings

How to prepare a seedling

Before planting a seedling, for better survival, its rhizomes can be dipped in a clay mash, reminiscent of thick sour cream in consistency, or maintained for a couple of minutes in any root formation stimulator (for example, in Heteroauksin or Kornevin).

Landing location and suitable soil

Gooseberries love the sun and will grow well in an open and well-lit place.

By the way!  It is believed that gooseberries endure partial shading from the sun (light partial shade).

But a dull shadow behind a shed or near a fence, a near-trunk circle of a spreading fruit tree, even very sprawled raspberry bushes - these are all unsuitable places for planting gooseberries.

Planting gooseberries in lowlands, marshy and waterlogged places, as in the case where you have close to ground water (closer than 1-1.5 meters), is not a good idea. Bushes planted in such areas will hurt and, as a result, are likely to die.

In this case, you can plant gooseberries on an artificial hill.

The soil

Gooseberries love to grow on light (loose) and fertile soils, the same loam or sandy loam soil. Acidity must be neutral.

Gooseberries do not like acidic soil. It is possible to lower the acidity (deoxidize) of the soil by adding dolomite flour or lime to it.

Naturally, if you periodically apply fertilizers and produce regular watering, gooseberries will grow well on poorer sandy or clay soils.

However, if the soil is excessively clayey, the water will stagnate, the root neck will rot and the seedling will simply disappear. On the contrary, if the soil is too sandy, the seedling can dry out due to a lack of moisture, which will evaporate very quickly after watering.

Advice!To make clay soil loose, it is mixed with sand. If the soil on the site is sandy, then clay is added to it.

How far to plant

As a rule, it is recommended to leave a distance of 1.2-1.5 m from each other between the gooseberry bushes, the row spacing is 2-2.5 m. This distance between the bushes is necessary due to the fact that when grown, adult bushes fill up with enough large space, and harvesting from individual bushes is much faster and safer than with a barbed hedge.

Important!In order for the gooseberry to develop normally, the distance to the fence should be at least 1, and preferably 1.5 meters.

Culture Neighborhood Rules

Many gardeners ask the question: "Is it possible to plant gooseberries next to currants?"

Some believe that they harm each other, but in fact this is not so. Another thing is that they have common diseases and pests. And in case   infection of one culture, the second is likely to suffer as well.

Too close to raspberries should also not be planted, because raspberries will simply obscure your gooseberries.

At what depth to plant (what should be the landing pit)

The optimal dimensions of the landing pit for gooseberries are 50 by 50 centimeters (depth and width / diameter), but can be wider and deeper (up to 60 cm).

Remember!  The larger the pit, the more fertile soil can be laid in it.

When planting, it is important to take into account one single fact - the root neck should be buried no less than 6-7 cm. Otherwise, shoots growing from the root will be weak.

Advice!  If you are planting a seedling in a container (with SCS), then simply make a hole 2-3 times larger than the container itself.

How and how to fill the landing pit

In order for the plant to take root in a new place faster, the planting under the gooseberry planting should be seasoned with a fertile substrate (soil mixture), namely make organic and mineral fertilizers:

Important!  Mineral fertilizers must be carefully mix  with earth and humus, and only then pour the resulting mixture into a pit.

• the upper fertile layer of soil (which you have left after digging a hole);
• compost or humus (bucket);
• deoxidized peat (optional and possible);
•   (80-100 grams) or 300-400 gr. bone meal;
• potassium sulfate (60-80 grams) or 200 gr. .

Or you can just pour about 80-100 grams of nitroammofoski or diammofoski, of course, if you use mineral fertilizers.

Direct landing

Step-by-step instructions planting gooseberry seedlings in spring:

• Fill the landing hole half with the nutrient mixture.
• Further, at will (many water only after planting, others both before and after - as you like), you can slightly spill the nutrient soil with water (5-10 liters).

• Make a small conical mound in the center of the landing hole.

If you plant a seedling with a closed root system (in the container), then you do not need to make any mounds, but simply drop it into a prepared landing pit without disturbing the earthen coma.

• Set the seedling in the center of the knoll and straighten the roots side down (the roots should never be bent and stick up!).

Note!   Gooseberries, unlike currants, are planted without tilting.

• To fill up with the earth (the top fertile soil layer mixed with humus or peat), at the same time slightly raising and shaking a seedling that the earth woke up between roots, without leaving empty cavities.
• Compact the soil.

Note!   Some gardeners recommend deepening the root collar a few (5-7) centimeters into the soil (for good tillering). However, given that the land is likely to settle, it is better not to deepen it initially.

On the other hand, there is an opinion that gooseberries do not like it when moisture accumulates near the root neck, so it is better to plant it flush with the surface of the soil or even slightly higher (because the ground will certainly settle).

By the way!  Remember that the root neck is the place where the first root originates from the trunk.

• Next, you need to make a hole (roller) along the diameter (perimeter) of the trunk circle 5-10 cm high.
• And then spill abundantly, pouring about a bucket of water (pour gradually - wait until it is absorbed and add more).
• As a result, level the roller, loosen the soil in the trunk circle and mulch it with peat, humus or compost.

Mulch will help to avoid drying out of the roots and excessive evaporation of moisture.

Video: how to plant gooseberries in spring

Gooseberry care after planting

Despite the fact that gooseberries have excellent survival rates, he, along with other crops, needs to ensure proper care after planting.

Immediately after landing, it should be mandatory   cut the shoots (the aerial part of the bush).Of course, if they have not been circumcised in advance by the seller, because as a rule, they are sold or sent precisely.

How much to crop?

If the roots are weak, then leave 2-3 buds (i.e., about 5-10 cm), and the rest - mercilessly cut, if stronger, then 3-4 buds (10-15 cm).

Important!  If this is not done, then gooseberries will spend a lot of effort on building green mass (leaves), which are formed on a high stem, which will greatly deplete its already weak roots. As a result, the seedling will noticeably lag behind in development: it simply does not form a good root system and a sufficient number of replacement buds (of which shoots should appear next year).

What is it for (mulching) for:

1. After heavy watering, a dry crust often forms. Thanks to the mulch, the soil will always be loose, and moisture will last longer.
2. Weeds will not grow under the mulch.
3. Mulch is an excellent organic top dressing.

• Of course, we must not forget about watering.

In the first year after planting, watering should be taken especially seriously.

• No top dressing will be required in the next 2-3 years, of course, if you carefully tucked the landing pit with everything you need.
• And in the fall you will need prepare the bushes for winter.

Advice!  About, how to care for currants (and for gooseberries everything is similar) in autumn and properly prepare for winterpainted in detail.

Already subsequently in the composition essential gooseberry care activities  will include the following:

• Annual or.

Main cropping  gooseberries are usually performed after fruiting (autumn), and in the spring they do only corrective, or rather sanitary pruning.

Of course, if you did not have the opportunity to cut gooseberries in the fall, then it is better to cut in the spring than not to cut at all.

• fertilizer application;

By the way!  More information about when and how to feed gooseberries in spring,you will find in.

• treatment for diseases and pests.
• If the gooseberry has grown too much (began to interfere)or he has markedly decreased fruiting and he generally stopped developing - it's time for him transplant or transplantbefore.

By the way!The site has a detailed article about (the technique is basically the same).



Video: planting and caring for gooseberries

Possible mistakes when planting gooseberries in spring

Novice gardeners, who are not well aware of the characteristics of the shrub, often make mistakes when planting it. In order not to step on the same rake, it is better to familiarize yourself with typical misconceptions in advance and protect the gooseberry from its own bad influence, eliminating the following most popular errors:

• Originally acquired poor seedling.
• Are selected incorrect landing dates -either too early (the earth is frozen), or too late (in the summer, when the heat is already).
• Too close   shaded spot.
• Ignored need making a sufficient amount of nutrient soil and fertilizer  into the landing pits.
• Bushes planted too close together. Strong thickened landings  poorly ventilated, causing plants to hurt. Or, as a result of a lack of sunlight and nutrients, too small berries are tied.
• After landing not pruning.
• Not produced  due post-landing care, namely regular watering.

Well, let your gooseberry be as tasty as it is prickly (although now we have already got some awkward, studless varieties).



Thus, planting gooseberries in their summer cottage is easy. All that is required of the gardener is a little free time and physical effort.

Video: how to plant gooseberries

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It happens that a gooseberry bush, planted seemingly in compliance with all the rules when laying a garden, after a few years is in an uncomfortable place. Either the layout has changed during this time, or fruit trees have grown, giving a lot of shade. Is it possible to move the constantly growing gooseberry bush to another place, saving it for your garden? Or will you have to uproot him, and instead plant a new one?

Fortunately, gooseberries endure the transplant quite easily, even at a very respectable age. As a rule, they make it in the fall, after all the leaves have fallen. Early spring, before the buds begin to bloom, is also suitable, but only if it is possible to regularly and abundantly water the transplanted plant. In addition, it must be borne in mind that in the spring gooseberries bloom very early, and root damage will not affect it in the best way.

The bush, intended for movement, must be prepared in advance. First of all, carry out a cardinal pruning, removing most of its crown. If this is not done, then the root system damaged during transplantation may not be able to cope with too much load, fail to “feed” the aerial part of the plant. In this case, the gooseberry will take root in a new place slowly, hard, and may even die.

If a very young bush or seedling is transplanted, then all its branches must be cut short, leaving no more than eight buds on annual growths. In older bushes, each annual growth should be halved by half. The next year, from three to five of the strongest zero branches are left, cutting off their unripened tops. The rest, weak or poorly located shoots, eliminate.

After trimming, the gooseberry bush should be dug, departing from the base at least 30 cm in all directions. Too thick roots will have to be cut or even sawed with a saw. Then the plant is carefully removed, preferably together with a lump of earth, and transferred to a new place of residence.

In a new place, first of all, you need to dig a landing hole. It will be required large enough - the roots of the bush should fit freely in it along with an earthen lump. It should be borne in mind that adult shrubs should be located at a distance of at least one and a half meters from each other. The bottom of the pit must be carefully shed with water so that there is a supply of moisture required for the damaged roots.

The soil mixture for filling the pit is prepared separately. It requires a complete, with a top, a bucket of well-rotted compost or manure, at least 100 grams of superphosphate and two glasses of wood ash. For lack of ash, potassium sulfate can be used - about 40 g per plant.

Part of the mixture is poured into the bottom of the pit with a small mound. The bush is placed on this mound and thoroughly spread all its roots. Then they fill it with the remaining soil mixture in such a way that the root neck is 10 cm deep in the ground. This contributes to the rapid growth of additional roots at the base of the branches. During backfilling, it is necessary to monitor how evenly the soil lays down around the roots - the formation of voids is unacceptable.

When the pit is filled up, the ground around the bush is leveled and slightly crushed. Then abundantly watered and mulched with compost, peat or any other organic material. Some experts even advise covering the near-trunk circles of transplanted plants with roofing material - to reduce evaporation and prevent the formation of soil crust. During irrigation, the roofing material is removed, and then returned to its place. This method significantly increases the survival rate of bushes.