Construction, redevelopment of the site, very overgrown trees - this is an incomplete list of situations when a gooseberry transplant is required. Or maybe the place was originally chosen incorrectly, and only a few years later the owners realized this, found another, more suitable one. Be that as it may, the need to transplant bushes from place to place raises concerns and a number of questions. Is it possible to transplant an adult bush? When and how is it best to do? You will find the answers in our article.

Gooseberries can be transplanted in spring or autumn. Most gardeners prefer to do this precisely in the fall, when the plant has almost completed its annual vegetation cycle, begins to prepare for winter, that is, for the rest period. In August and September, the beds are usually prepared for the next season, from this point of view it is also better to make room for spring planting in advance.

In the spring it is more difficult to determine the time for a transplant, more precisely, it is difficult to correctly guess it. Gooseberries very early and quickly begin to grow, the very first warm days contribute to the rapid movement of juices, swelling of the buds - the plant rushes to flowering rapidly. The end of May is usually marked by the presence of small fruits. This means that you need to plant a bush before the sap flow begins, immediately after thawing the earth.

In the fall, you can decide on time much easier, knowing approximately when frost sets in annually. In late September or early October, after the bush drops its leaves, when all life processes slow down, it will more easily tolerate stress and the inevitable root injury caused by transplantation. Moreover, before the cold, he will have time to take root in a new place.

A prickly bush will take root well on non-acidic, fairly light and nutritious soil. Loam is best for him. If the soil selected for it is too light - clay can be added, if it is too heavy and dense - sand and peat can be added. The site should be dug up, cleaned of all plant debris, old roots, debris. If necessary, deoxidation of the soil, you need to add lime.

It is advisable to check the acidity of the soil before planting plants for which it is important. This can be done on your own, having previously prepared “reagents”.

To determine the pH of the soil, you need to take a handful of currant or cherry leaves, put in a half-liter jar, pour boiling water, close with a tight lid. After the water has cooled, a lump of earth is placed in it and the color change is monitored. Preservation of green color indicates a normal level of acidity, if a red tint appears - too acidic, if blue - not acidic enough.

Transplant Methods

When the place is defined and prepared (and on it you need to dig a hole with a depth of at least 50 cm and a diameter of up to 80 cm), it is time to move on to digging and preparing the bush. Gooseberries are severely cut off - all old branches need to be removed, and new shoots, which will be no more than 7, be shortened by a third. Then, a circle with a diameter of 30-40 centimeters is dug around him. Usually the roots occupy the area indicated by its crown. A bush well dug to a depth of half a meter is removed with a shovel, pitchfork, crowbar or other tools, together with an earthen lump, stretching at the same time as the base, and transferred to a film or fabric. On this film, he is transported to a new place of residence. The roots are not specially released from the ground (unless they are diseased and not rotten), but they examine the visible parts, cut off a little, wounds sprinkled with wood ash.

A pair of buckets of water is poured into the prepared pit (it should be wider than the roots), the excavated soil mixed with compost or rotted manure is poured onto the bottom of the pit, and a bush is placed on top, the roots are straightened, and they are sprinkled with the rest of the earth. It is advisable to deepen the bush 5 centimeters more than it grew before. The earth is tamped, watered with a couple more buckets, it is advisable to make a hole or a groove with sides so that the water does not flow past, but gets exactly to the roots. After that, the area around the stems is covered with dry soil and mulched with peat or straw.

Some gardeners add fertilizers when transplanting, but this is quite dangerous for disturbed and trimmed roots. Most experts are inclined to believe that except for compost, wood ash can be added, and mineral fertilizers can be added in the spring.

If transplants require not one but several bushes, then more space is prepared. The entire large area reserved for gooseberry planting is dug up, cleaned, and the soil acidity or breathability corrected, if necessary. And then they prepare pits for each bush separately, between them it is desirable to leave a distance of more than a meter - usually 1.3 m or 1.5 m.

With a spring transplant, a hole is dug as soon as the ground melts.  It immediately becomes clear whether the stagnation threatens the landings. If it turns out that there is such an opportunity, you need to dig a hole deeper and make a drainage layer of small gravel or pebbles, and then pour the earth and plant a plant.

Transplant Care

Gooseberry is an unpretentious and viable plant. A healthy bush tolerates the transplant well. Moreover, a correctly carried out transplant in a convenient and fertile place can rejuvenate it, increase productivity. Transplanting an adult plant in the fall, you can wait for the harvest next year. The exception is the healing plant transplant, which grew in an inappropriate place, was sick. In this case, the crop may be in a few years - from 2 to 4, depending on the degree of neglect and pruning of the plant.

After planting in the fall, the plant is watered regularly (pushing and returning the mulch after watering to its original place) until the frost. If necessary, top dressing, fertilizers are applied in the spring, when the bush has taken root and began to grow. Then urea, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are added. If there is no urgent need, do seasonal feeding, adding a little fermented slurry or bird droppings to the water.

After the spring transplant, they also monitor the moisture, only you need not to overdo it, pay attention to the amount of rainfall. Further care consists in weeding, feeding, pest control. Since the roots are shallow, it is better to remove weeds by hand, after watering, resume the layer of mulch.

The need for transplanting shrubs in a garden or household plot can arise for a variety of reasons. All plants tolerate this procedure in different ways. Some cultures take root in a new and painful place for a long time, while others only need a couple of weeks to acclimatize. Gooseberries belong to the second unpretentious and non-capricious category. However, for the success of the whole event, several important conditions must be observed.

Why transplant gooseberries

Moving the shrub to another location may be required for the following reasons:

• redevelopment of the site due to the construction or planting of other garden crops;
• for the plant, an unfortunate location (excess dampness, lack of lighting, etc.) was initially selected, as a result of which it is poorly fruitful and often sick;
• neighboring cultures have grown over time and prevent gooseberries from developing normally, or, conversely, the shrub itself inhibits nearby plants, but it is difficult to transfer them;
• natural aging of the bush, requiring rejuvenation;
• very long bush growth in one place, as a result of which the soil is depleted.

Sometimes gooseberry bushes grow too much and prevent other crops from growing.

Nearby we planted two honeysuckle bushes and two gooseberry bushes. One honeysuckle bush turned out to be very high, although in principle it should not be. Gooseberries in his shadow did not grow well, there were few berries. I had to drag an adult gooseberry bush to another place, because it would have been much more trouble with its rival because of its overall size.

Spring or fall: when is it better to transplant

Gooseberries tolerate a change in habitat quite easily, it can be transplanted both in spring and autumn. And even in the summer, if such a need is urgently needed. But nevertheless, in the fall it is preferable to engage in a shrub transplant, because at this time the plant completes the vegetation, successfully prolific, and begins to prepare for wintering. Sap flow slows down, the ground part stops growing. A bush moving into a dormant stage is much easier to adapt in a new place, since it will immediately direct all its forces to the development of the root system.

It is best to transplant gooseberries in the fall, when the foliage has already circled

The best time for the transfer of gooseberry bushes is the second decade of September. In regions with severe climatic conditions, this can be done earlier, starting in late August. In the warm southern regions, landing is possible even in early November. Before the onset of real frosts, at least 4-5 weeks should remain so that the bush has time to take root well.

If for some reason it was not possible to gooseberry in the fall, then a spring transplant is also possible. But there is a difficulty with the fact that this berry shrub awakens extremely early after winter. With the onset of the first warm days, sap flow begins, the kidneys swell almost immediately and burst. At this moment, it is no longer possible to touch the plant, since it will hurt for a long time in a new place and lag behind in development, and may not even take root at all. The main forces of gooseberries are directed to the growth of the upper part, and not to the formation of roots.

When the foliage has already begun to bloom, gooseberries are undesirable

In the spring, you can dig out the gooseberry bush only before the start of the movement of juices.  The most suitable spring month for this is March, when the snow cover is already gone. In the northern regions, this is also possible in early April. However, very often the earth still remains frozen and it will be impossible to extract the plant from the earth. It is necessary that the earth has already warmed up enough, but the plant has not yet moved to growth. Guessing this moment is sometimes extremely difficult.

Gooseberries can be transplanted in the spring, but before the swelling of the kidneys

In principle, in case of emergency gooseberries can be transplanted in the summer. But since green mass is actively growing at this time, the bush will restore a damaged root system for a very long time.

Last year, we had to urgently transplant a gooseberry bush in the spring, which was badly damaged by the snow that came off the roof of a neighboring house. The snowdrift was large and thawed for a long time; the plant was only dug up at the end of April with leaflets that were almost full. They chose another, safer place for him, where there is no drier danger of falling snow blocks. Gooseberries took root for a long time and almost stopped growing, the fruits that had begun to fall fell.

Video: when and how to transplant gooseberry bushes

Choosing a place for bushes and plot preparation

Of decisive importance for the normal growth and good fruiting of the bush is a competent choice of planting location, it is necessary to approach the choice of future location with all responsibility. The gooseberry feels most comfortable in open and sunlit areas most of the day. Culture does not like piercing northerly winds and drafts, so it is better to provide protection from them in the form of a building wall or fence.

Gooseberries love sunny places protected from gusty winds

Despite all its moisture lovingness, gooseberries do not tolerate waterlogging and close occurrence of groundwater. Excessive moisture is fraught with the development of fungal pathologies and rot. It is preferable to plant the shrub in humus loams of medium density with an acid-base balance close to neutral (pH 6.5–7). Heavy clay soils are loosened by applying sand. A clay substrate is added to the sandstones, making the soil more water-absorbing. The acidity level is best checked in advance using a litmus test (kits are sold in gardening stores). If necessary, during digging, deoxidizers (dolomite flour, fluffy lime, etc.) are brought into the ground.

For gooseberries, slightly elevated areas with deep groundwater are suitable.

The best predecessors for gooseberries will be: beets, potatoes., Legumes and green crops.  After currants, both black and colored (white, red), as well as raspberries, planting gooseberry bushes is strongly not recommended, because the soil after them is already extremely depleted and devoid of almost all the necessary nutrients and trace elements. In addition, these berry crops have common pests and diseases that can cause irreparable harm to a weakened and immature plant.

Do not plant gooseberries next to currants or raspberries, as they have common pests and diseases

The site must be dug up in advance, trying to select the maximum rhizomes of perennial weeds from the ground.

Methods and nuances of gooseberry transplant

Before proceeding to the transplant procedure, it is necessary to prepare the plant itself.  The bush is cleaned of old, broken, affected by pests or diseases, as well as unnecessary branches. The remaining young strong and healthy shoots, in the amount of 6-8 pieces, are shortened by a third.

Before transplanting, old and unnecessary branches are removed, the rest is shortened by a third of the length

1. A few days before the expected day of the main work, a landing pit is prepared. Its depth is at least 0.5-0.55 m, and the diameter should be slightly larger than the root system of the bush to be transplanted. The removable upper fertile layer is used to create the soil mixture.

   The landing pit is prepared in advance so that the earth settles and compacts

2. A 5-10 cm drainage layer of gravel, pebble, rubble or brick fight is laid at the bottom of the pit.

   If the area is very wet, then the drainage layer must be laid

3. The pit is half filled with nutritious soil mixture prepared according to any of the options:
   
4. On the right day, the bush is dug around the entire perimeter, departing from its base about 30–35 cm.

   The bush is dug from all sides.

5. Thick and long roots that turn out to be outside the circle are chopped off with a sharp shovel or ax.
6. Using a crowbar, pitchfork or shovel, the bush is loosened and carefully removed from the ground, being careful not to damage the earthen lump. Then it is laid on a piece of burlap or polyethylene and dragged to the place of relocation.

   The dug bush is laid on a piece of burlap or film and dragged to the right place

7. On the eve of the pit abundantly watered with water (3-5 buckets, depending on size).

   Well on the eve of transplantation well shed water

8. The plant is lowered into the pit, set in the center at such a height that the basal neck is below the ground by 5-7 cm.

   Gooseberry bush is placed in a pit.

9. The roots are evenly distributed along the bottom, sprinkled with a layer of the remaining soil mixture and compacted well, trying not to leave voids.

   The pit is filled with the remaining soil mixture.

10. Gradually layer by layer fill the hole completely. Each layer is compacted.

    The soil is well compacted

11. Abundantly watered (at least 2-3 buckets). When the soil settles, the soil mixture is still sprinkled.

    Transplanted bush watered abundantly

12. Lay a layer of mulch from dry leaves, sawdust, humus, etc.

    In the basal circle lay a layer of mulch

Video: transplanting gooseberries correctly

An adult plant during transplantation can be divided for reproduction.  For this, the root system is freed from the ground and cut into the required number of parts, each of which should have one main root and several subordinate.

When transplanting, the bush can be divided for reproduction.

Most often, young and not too overgrown bushes are transplanted using the transshipment method. It is very difficult to move old bushes with an earthen lump. If the shrub undergoes a transplant due to illness, then the root system must be completely cleaned of soil, carefully examined and cut off all diseased and suspicious parts of the plant.

There are several ways to plant gooseberry bushes:

• Kustov. The option is suitable for large and spacious areas. Pits for planting are placed in rows with an interval between plants of 1.2–1.5 m, leaving aisles of at least 2.5–3 m. Planting patterns can be:
  
• By tape. Planting material is planted in trenches with a depth of about 0.5 m, at a distance of 0.5 m between individual plants. Such a tape subsequently forms a dense dense trellis, the care of which is carried out in two directions.

  With a lack of space, gooseberry bushes are planted one at a time

Video: bush method of planting gooseberries

Gooseberry bush care after transplantation

Subject to transplant technology, the survival rate of gooseberries is quite high. But of great importance in the success of the entire event is competent post-transplant care.

Autumn transplant

The main autumn care for transplanted gooseberry bushes comes down to regular watering.  The soil in the near-stem circle must be constantly moist. But if it rains, then you do not need to moisten the plantings additionally.

If it is dry autumn, then transplanted gooseberries need to be watered

Some gardeners use pieces of roofing material or a thick film to retain moisture under the gooseberry bushes. Shelter is removed during irrigation, and then again returned to its original place.

With the onset of cold weather, plants are insulated with a thick (10-15 cm) layer of mulch from:

• dry leaves;
• sawdust (coniferous);
• hay;
• humus;
• peat;
• needles;
• cones;
• shredded tree bark, etc.

For the winter, gooseberries are additionally insulated with a layer of mulch

If there were traces of damage by diseases or pests on the shrub, then approximately two weeks after the transplant, they are treated with Bordeaux liquid (3%) and karbofos (the preparations are diluted according to the instructions).

Spring transplant

In spring, it is especially important to prevent drying out of the damaged transplant of the gooseberry root system.  Watering is carried out at least once every 10-15 days, spending 2-3 buckets of water on one bush.

In spring, the transplanted gooseberry bush should be regularly watered.

When the plant begins to grow, it must be provided with any of the nitrogen-containing fertilizers:

• organics:
  • bird droppings (in a ratio of 1:20);
  • mullein (1:10);
• mineral dressings - are applied in liquid form per 10 liters of water (consumption per 1 bush of 5 liters of working solution):
  • ammonium nitrate (20 g);
  • urea (10 g);
  • ammonium sulfate (20 g).

In the spring, gooseberries can be fertilized with wood ash and humus.

Throughout the growing season, weeds are removed under the bushes and the soil is loosened. This should be done carefully, without going deeper than 2-3 cm, as the gooseberry root system is located close to the soil surface.

Weeds under the bushes need to be pulled out, and the soil carefully loosened

A very good spring fertilizer for almost any crop is an infusion of herbs. I fill a large vat (about 50 liters) with various organic residues (mowed lawn grass, weeds, tops, etc.), pour water to the top and insist for about a week. Then I dilute the liquid additionally (a half-liter can on a bucket of water) and water the plants.

Video: how to plant a gooseberry bush and how to care for it

Proper and timely transplantation, as well as competent care for gooseberries after this procedure, guarantee excellent survival of the bush in a new place and the subsequent abundant harvests of delicious and extremely healthy berries.

Gooseberries are an unpretentious berry shrub. It happens that the bush grows so much that it begins to interfere with other crops. We have to find him a new place and transplant. Of course, the younger the bush, the easier the operation, but on the whole, transplanting gooseberries is nothing complicated.

Gooseberry Transplant Reasons

Among the possible reasons why there is a need for a gooseberry transplant, the following can be noted:

• serious redevelopment of the site was required;
• the bushes are too big and interfere with each other;
• gooseberry was originally planted in a hurry not at the optimal place: it lacks the sun, it is flooded with melt water, etc .;
• it is inconvenient to harvest: the fence located too close prevents, the branches spread along the paths, etc.

The sooner these reasons are discovered, the better: a gooseberry transplant at the age of 3-5 is very simple, and later difficulties can occur. Firstly, it is physically difficult to transplant a massive bush, and secondly, it will be more difficult to take root in a new place.

Gooseberry transplant conditions and optimal terms

Like the vast majority of shrubs, gooseberries can be transplanted in spring and autumn. This is not worth doing in the summer, although young bushes with a large lump of land can be moved at any time; with the correct operation and good care, they are likely to take root. It is considered easier and more reliable autumn transplant, when the bush enters a period of relative dormancy and prepares for winter.

The best time for a gooseberry transplant is considered autumn

The exact time of transplantation depends on the region and the weather, but usually this time falls on October, after the leaves fall. You need to do this 3-4 weeks before the onset of severe frost, so that the roots in the new place begin to take root and resume growth even in relatively warm weather. However, it happens that in the fall it was not possible to transplant the bush: unexpectedly frosts came early or there was simply no time for the gardener. In this case, the procedure can be postponed to the spring, but the place for planting should be prepared in the fall.

Spring is not the best time for a gooseberry transplant, because it wakes up early from hibernation when it is still difficult to work with the ground. With the advent of relative heat, its buds swell, open, and the growing season begins. A transplant with the beginning of sap flow will be very painful, and the bush may die in a new place, therefore, in most regions, spring surgery should be carried out in March, and in a cold climate in early April.

Gooseberry Transplant Technology

Gooseberries can be transplanted both with a lump of land and without it. Transplanting with a lump is more difficult, but the bush will take root faster and more reliable. It is especially important to preserve the roots with the earth, if the situation is “on the verge” by the terms of transplantation: gooseberries in the fall have not yet gone to rest, and in the spring his buds began to swell. A spring transplant without a clod of earth can be carried out only as a last resort and exclusively for a young bush (no older than 2-3 years) with a powerful root system. After such an operation, care for gooseberries in a new place should be especially thorough.

Preparing a landing pit in a new place

The landing site must meet the following requirements:

• be well lit (partial shade is allowed for several hours per day);
• be protected from drafts: as a rule, they try to plant gooseberries near a fence or low buildings;
• there should be no close occurrence of groundwater; the plant needs moist soil, but it does not tolerate waterlogging;
• the soil should be light, fertile, with a neutral reaction of the environment; excess acidity is corrected with slaked lime, chalk or dolomite flour, sand and peat are added to clay soil.

Do not plant gooseberries in the place where shortly before that raspberries or currants grew.

The procedure for preparing the place for landing:

Mineral fertilizers, as a rule, are not applied to the pit, but you can add 100 g of superphosphate, placing it away from future roots, that is, mix it with the ground and sprinkle over the drainage layer.

Preparing gooseberry bush for transplant

Procedure for preparing gooseberries:

Planting a bush in a new place

The transplant is carried out as follows:

If several gooseberry bushes are transplanted at once, a planting scheme is pre-selected. For mass transplants, the distance between the centers of the landing pits should be 1.5–2.0 m, while landing in several rows between them, free passage is provided.

Caring for a Transplanted Gooseberry Bush

Gooseberry is quite unpretentious, with a correctly transplanted bush successfully takes root. To help him in this, it is important in the first year to water it intensively and be sure to mulch the soil around, as well as weed. A layer of mulch of 6-8 cm prevents the growth of most representatives of weeds. When especially strong species (wheatgrass, dandelion, etc.) appear, they must be removed manually with the root, since they weaken the transplanted bush to compete for food and moisture.

In dry weather, the transplanted bush is watered until mid-summer 2 times a week, spending at least a bucket of water.  In particularly hot weather, sprinkling is also useful: wetting the crown with water. In the second half of summer, watering is less common. Water temperature is not significant, but watering should be done in the morning or evening.

In mid-summer, gooseberries should be fed with potash fertilizer. If the branches grow weakly, it is better to do this a little earlier, taking a complex mineral fertilizer. The transplanted gooseberries are necessarily fertilized closer to winter, while simultaneously carrying out water-charging irrigation.After leaf fall, 4–5 buckets of water are brought under the bush, diluting up to 100 g of superphosphate in it. After that, the soil around the bush is covered with fallen leaves of trees or sawdust with a layer of up to 10 cm. Gooseberry does not require additional warming of the crown for the winter.

Gooseberries are fertilized with superphosphate for the winter

Features of a gooseberry transplant at different times of the year

There is no significant difference in the technology of spring and autumn transplantation of gooseberries. A pit for autumn transplantation is prepared 2-3 weeks before it, and for a spring transplant, from autumn. Nuances may appear with subsequent care, and they depend on the current weather.

Gooseberry Autumn Transplant

With an autumn transplant, as a rule, frequent watering is not required until the onset of winter, since most often in October-November rains begin and there is no heat. A thick layer of mulch (up to 10 cm), which is required after transplanting, successfully retains irrigation water, so repeated frequent watering is required only in case of dry weather. In normal weather, it is enough to repeat watering a week after the transplant.

Fertilizing during the autumn transplant is not required; it is carried out already next year.  It is possible for the first time, until spring, to cover the soil under the bush with a piece of roofing material: it prevents the evaporation of water and warms the earth. But if there is a dry autumn, the roofing material should be periodically raised, the soil moisture should be checked and, if necessary, irrigated.

Video: gooseberry transplant in autumn

Gooseberry Spring Transplant

In spring transplantation, the soil is also mulched, but not with such a thick layer, otherwise the deepening of the root neck will be excessive. Watering is carried out often, because snow water in the soil ends very quickly. After the leaves bloom, the bush is watered weekly, and after 2-3 weeks after that, it can already be fed with nitrogen fertilizer (urea, infusion of mullein or chicken droppings).

In the spring, gooseberries can be fed with nitrogen fertilizer, such as urea

Video: gooseberry transplant in spring

Gooseberry transplant is a simple operation that may be required for various reasons. It is important not only to do it right, but also not to miss the deadlines: it is best to deal with a transplant in the fall, and if you have to do it in the spring, you need to finish the procedure as early as possible.

Gooseberries have been grown in our country for a long time. In Russia, already in the 11th century, monks cultivated cultivars of this berry in the monastery gardens. Thus, gooseberries were domesticated much earlier than the popular currants and raspberries. Now   the fruits of this berry are appreciated for the rich composition of vitamins, medicinal properties and delicious gooseberry jam. Although the plant is unpretentious, grows in Russia, Ukraine, it is necessary to approach its planting with all responsibility. Planted in compliance with all the rules, gooseberries are able to yield up to 10 kg per year for 40 years. Let's take a closer look at the rules for planting gooseberries in the fall.

Gooseberries are planted both in spring and autumn. In the spring, landing should be done as early as possible, preferably in the first half of April. It is important that the plant has not yet moved away from its winter dormant state. If the buds begin to bloom, then the chances that the seedling will take root will be reduced. But also a shrub planted on time will have a worse survival rate in spring than with an autumn planting. What month to plant gooseberries, you ask? Gardeners with experience recommend planting gooseberries late August - September - early October, depending on the region - Moscow Region, the Urals, the middle strip of Russia.

The best time for autumn planting is the last week of September and the first weeks of October. However, you need to focus on the weather. The main thing is that the first frosts come no earlier than two weeks later, and that the young roots do not freeze. And it is better to choose a non-sunny day and no wind, so that the roots do not dry out in the open air.

With the right choice of planting time in the fall, the plant takes root in almost 100% of cases. Among the other advantages of autumn planting are:

• Before the cold, there’s time seedling roots managed to grow stronger and grow.
• Spring plant will begin to develop rapidly.
• Before the winter the soil around the shrub will settle well and compact.
• A plant that has taken root in the fall spring will begin the process of vegetation with full force, which will provide greater growth of young shoots by next fall.

Planting gooseberries in the fall, although it gives great guarantees, it is very important not to be late with its timing.

The dates given are averaged. You need to start from the climate of your region. For the southern regions, the dates can move to October-November, and for the northern regions, the beginning of September is also suitable.

If you have decided the right time, a significant point for a successful planting is the preparation of a plant seedling.

How to choose and prepare a seedling

When buying a seedling, be sure to pay attention to the following indicators:

1. Seedling age. It should not exceed two years, an adult plant will take root more slowly and adapt longer to new conditions.
2. A sufficiently large number of roots. Among them should be three or more skeletal, the length of which exceeds 15 cm. And much more fibrous roots.
3. Shoots of the aerial parts of the plant length should reach 30-40 cm.

After buying a seedling, it is prepared for planting. To do this, you must:

1. Remove leaves  with a seedling.
2. Do crop  dry roots.
3. Dip the sapling in the clay mashprepared in advance. To prepare the solution, mix clay and chernozem 1 kg each, 2 packs of Kornevin, and fill with 3 liters of water.

Seat selection

It is equally important to choose the right place for a future landing. Where to plant this fruit shrub? Do not plant gooseberries between trees, this will create a shortage of sunlight. The neighborhood with currants is also detrimental to the plant, because they are susceptible to the same diseases and pests. Well, if before planting gooseberries, legumes, beets or potatoes were grown on this land.

The soil should be loose, the bush will not grow well in too heavy and waterlogged land. If groundwater lies high on the garden plot, then gooseberries are best planted at the highest place, or create an artificial elevation for it from the ground.

The proper placement of the bushes when planting several plants at once matters. Gooseberries are growing quite well. An eight-year bush reaches 2.5 meters in diameter.

There are several patterns of planting gooseberries:

1. Sparse landing. In this case, the bushes are planted in rows at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other, and between the rows leave a space of 2 meters wide. After 4-5 years, the plants will grow so much that they will be one continuous strip.
2. Planting between rows of young fruit trees. Under such conditions, gooseberries will grow well until the crowns above it begin to close. After this, the bushes should be transplanted to a more illuminated place.
3. Combined circuit. Plants are planted in rows at a distance of 75 cm from each other, observing a distance between rows of 1 m. When, after several years, the bushes begin to close, they need to be thinned out after one, replanting part of the plants to a new place. After a couple of years, thinning needs to be repeated. This scheme contributes to a larger yield of berries and significantly saves space on the site.

To expedite a plentiful harvest, gardeners sometimes plant two seedlings at once in one large hole, leaving a distance of 20 cm between them. In the early years, the harvest will indeed be good, however, the bushes will soon begin to thicken and grow old. At the same time, their roots will be so intertwined that it will be almost impossible to plant the plants.

When you prepare the seedlings and choose a good place for the gooseberry, you can proceed to the direct planting of the plant.

Gooseberry planting technology in spring and autumn

Planting a plant includes the following steps:

1. In the selected area you need digging up the earth no more than a bayonet on a shovel. In this case, all lumps are broken and weeds are eliminated.
2. Dig a hole, its size should slightly exceed the root system of the seedling, on average it is 50x50x50 cm. This should be done a little in advance - a couple of weeks before the landing. The upper fertile land needs to be folded on one side, and the rest on the other.
3. Fertilize the pit. At 2/3, it must be filled with fertile soil mixed with compost (1.5 buckets), superphosphate (300 g), peat (1.5 buckets), ash (3 cups), ground limestone (1 cup). From above it is necessary to pour more fertile soil and fill it all with 0.5 liters of water.
4. Before boarding the hole must be left to stand in this form for a couple of weeksso that the soil has settled enough.
5. During a direct landing, set the seedling in the hole by tilting it slightly. In this case, the root neck should be located in the very center of the fossa, and the roots should be spread out on the sides. To avoid voids, the space between the roots must be covered with earth. Gooseberries are usually deepened 5 cm lower than at the last place of seedling growth  (this is easy to track by traces on the cortex). Thus, conditions will be created for the growth of additional roots and shoots from the buried buds of the plant.
6. The earth around the seedling needs trample and water abundantly.
7. Add mulch to the hole  from peat or leaves with a layer of 10 cm.

After planting in the fall, young plants do not require special care, until spring you can not touch them. Mulch and snowfall will help the sapling to winter. If you are afraid that there will be little snow in the winter, then you can additionally insulate the gooseberry with covering materials.

After planting in spring, for survival and growth, trim the plant. At the same time, cut the aerial part by 10 cm, and leave 2-3 buds on each shoot. During autumn planting, this pruning is not recommended. If you still decide to do it, then be sure to cover all the slices with garden var.

How to transplant an adult bush

When choosing a planting scheme with further thinning of the rows, it is important to know the rules for transplanting gooseberries. Plants should also be transplanted in the fall, so that the plants take root more easily in a new place. To safely remove the bush from the ground, dig it on each side at a distance of 30 cm from the base. Thick roots can be chopped off, this will not harm the plant. Further, with the help of a shovel, the bush is removed from the soil, together with an earthen lump, it is laid on polyethylene and moves to a new landing site. The technology of planting an adult plant itself is no different from planting seedlings.

Such a capricious plant as gooseberries does not require constant care of it. One time is enough to give him timehaving landed in accordance with all the rules, and for many years the plant will provide you with a tasty and healthy crop.

The trends of modern fashion make us think about how to change our site and create stylish landscape compositions on it. Most design ideas require free space so that trees and shrubs do not interfere with evaluating the author’s idea. For the sake of beauty, you have to make sacrifices and transplant plants that are not in place.

It is possible to move even a large fruiting bush, if you approach this task correctly. Moreover, sometimes a transplant is beneficial for the plant, as it leads to its rejuvenation.

Let's try to transplant a gooseberry bush. To do this, we first carry out a strong crop.

Like currants, gooseberry bush consists of branches of various ages. According to the structure of the bush, gooseberries can be divided into two types. Some varieties have a bushy shape with strongly curved, arched branches, others a more compressed form, in which in the center of the bush perennial branches occupy a vertical and inclined position, and the lateral branches are slightly curved. In the varieties of the first type, the pods live in the bush for 3-4 years, and bear fruit for 2-3 years, in the second, respectively, 5-6 and 3-4 years. In the second type, the pods are less thickened and better lit than in the varieties of the first type.

When pruning, all branches that are older than the specified age must be ruthlessly removed. It is not difficult to distinguish them from young shoots: in old, the bark is darker and rougher.

We cut out all low-lying branches, as well as thin and diseased. We make a cut at the level of the soil, without leaving stumps. If it is difficult, we cut branches in two steps.

We consider how many shoots we have left: if more than ten, then we need to reduce them to six to seven. These young shoots are greatly shortened - 40-50 cm long is enough. Sometimes it is recommended to cut branches even lower, but practice shows that gooseberries take root well with this length.

Now we begin to dig out a bush. We dig it from all sides as deep as possible. The distance from the center of the bush is at least 40 cm. We take the bush out of the ground and put it on film or fabric. We dig a hole in a new place. In size, it should be larger than an earthen coma, both in depth and in diameter. It is desirable that at least 10 cm gaps remain on the circumference. At the bottom of the pit, we fall asleep a fertile mixture consisting of humus and garden earth. Fertilizers should not be added so as not to burn the roots.

On the fabric we transfer the bush to the place of planting. We put it in a hole and fill in the gaps along its perimeter with the same fertile mixture. Tamp the soil lightly and water abundantly (2-4 buckets of water, depending on the size of the bush). We fall asleep on top with dry earth. The base of the bush should be deepened by 5-7 cm. Until the onset of cold weather, we continue to water the bush.

Gooseberries are planted in the fall, as even a slight delay in replanting in the spring will negatively affect its development. Gooseberries begin to grow very early, so it is important that the roots receive all the moisture from the melting snow.

In the spring, do not forget about the transplanted bush. Even if the soil is wet, water it, as damaged roots still do not produce water well. The first dressing can be given when the leaves grow a little.

The branches that were left from the gooseberry trimmings are very useful for protecting plants from rodents. Put them in the trenches when planting tulips and use them to tie fruit trees.