Sliding wardrobes, which not so long ago were considered completely exotic interior items, which could only be seen in glossy catalogs or in very "rich" apartments, gradually entered the everyday life of the average family. Such furniture designs combine practicality, spaciousness, and economy of useful space, and plus to all this - they fit very well into the interior of the room, often becoming its central design element.

And yet, if you look at the price lists of firms engaged in the manufacture and installation of wardrobes, sometimes the prospect of such an acquisition looks somewhat frightening. Therefore, many owners who know how to hold carpentry and metalwork tools in their hands have questions - is it possible to make such a piece of furniture on their own? It turns out that this is quite possible. The biggest challenge is the sliding door structure. However, this should not scare you - in specialized stores you can purchase special kits-systems that will help you assemble beautiful and functional doors for a sliding wardrobe with your own hands, of course, if diligence, accuracy, a clear sequence of all technological operations are applied.

What is included in the kit for wardrobe doors

This article will not consider the installation process of the cabinet itself with shelves, side walls, drawers, etc. The essence is completely different - the defining element of such a piece of furniture is precisely. By and large, no matter how paradoxical it may sound, a wardrobe may simply not even be a "wardrobe" in the literal sense of the word.

Various options for sliding wardrobes, which sometimes are not even "wardrobes"

So, with a movable door structure, you can fence off a long niche in the wall, placing in the resulting space, both ordinary shelves and racks, bedside tables, etc. Often, such a partition separates the end part of the room, along its entire width, from wall to wall, and in height - from floor to ceiling. And the resulting mini-room can serve as both a spacious closet and a storage room, and sometimes even a small study. A similar design is also used for installation in the corner of a room or hallway - as a result, a triangular "closet" appears at the disposal of the owners, which can be used both as a closet and for other needs, for example, even for "home parking" of a bicycle.

In short, the options can be innumerable. But they all have one thing in common -. Correctly mounted doors effortlessly move along their guides, alternately allowing one or another section of the "cabinet" to be opened, and in the closed position, tightly, without cracks, adhere to the vertical planes framing the structure.

Wardrobe doors

It should not be assumed that numerous local firms engaged in the manufacture and installation of sliding wardrobes are using any of their own designs or mechanisms. In the overwhelming majority of cases, ready-made systems are used for this, which can be easily purchased in furniture fittings stores. Usually they represent a certain set of metal (more often - aluminum) profiles and necessary components: roller mechanisms, plugs, gaskets, jumpers, fasteners, etc. These systems help to assemble the frame structure of the doors and the mechanism for their movement, but each master is free to choose his own internal filling - mirrors, transparent or tinted glass, plastic, laminated fiberboard or MDF and other materials.

There are many such systems for sliding wardrobe doors. They can differ in the configuration and material for the production of profiles, the principle of assembly of parts, the level of complexity of the roller mechanism, the adjustment system, etc. Our publication will consider the "Aristo" system, as one of the most popular, which has proven its reliability, and is quite simple in self-installation. In addition, it is pleasant to realize that these are products of our domestic manufacturer, which have won recognition abroad as well.

Aristo profiles are made of primary aluminum, have a precisely adjusted geometry, which allows you to assemble door structures with high precision. The system implies sliding doors, the load from which falls on the lower roller. It is equipped with a metal rolling bearing that does not require lubrication during the entire service life, and provides a smooth and quiet movement of the leaf along the guide without the application of large forces. The upper rollers play a stabilizing role, keep the web in an upright position and ensure its smooth movement relative to the upper guide.

The manufacturer of the kits claims that the resource included in the mechanism, if properly assembled, will be enough for one hundred thousand (!) Cycles of closing and opening - a more than impressive indicator.

The manufacturer offers a wide range of color designs for aluminum profiles - it is possible to mount a structure that fits perfectly into the interior without standing out, or, conversely, contrasting sharply against the general background.

The wood-like profiles are covered with a high-strength double-layer laminating film, and the monochrome details get their own shade using the anodizing technology.

Aristo profiles allow manufacturing sliding doors filled with glass (4 mm thick), glass composition with plywood or fiberboard (6 or 8 mm thick) or from chipboard, MDF panels (10 mm thick). The maximum door dimensions can be: up to 1500 mm wide, up to 3300 mm high, the permissible weight of one leaf is up to 160 kg.

What are the main components included in the "Aristo" system (an option with guides for two or more leaves is being considered):

№№	Illustration	Dimensions (edit)	Short description
1.			Side stand-handle, open type, asymmetric, profile C.
2.			Side stand-handle, closed, symmetrical, profile H.
3.			The upper guide profile (track) is two-track.
4.			The lower guide profile (track) is two-track.
5.			Upper door frame. The channel for screwing in the assembly self-tapping screw is clearly visible.
6.			Bottom door frame. The same mounting channel for the screw, and the high profile flanges create a niche to accommodate support rollers.
7.			Middle door frame without additional fixing with a self-tapping screw. It is used when using several filling fragments in the case when no reinforced fixing of the lintel is required - it will be held by the filling panels (for example, if rigid chipboard or MDF 10 mm boards are used).
8.			Middle door frame with self-tapping screw. Able to give additional rigidity to the door frame. It is advisable to use it when using glass or mirrors filling as fragments, or with significant dimensions of the entire door leaf structure.
9.			Direct focus. Optional element. It is used for framing the vertical sides of the opening in the place of their abutment to the walls.
10.			Shaped emphasis. Optional element. It is used for framing the vertical sides of the opening if they are walls made of chipboard panels.
11.			P-profile. Optional element. It can be used for framing the ends of the chipboard panels used during the installation of the cabinet structure, in the places where they adjoin the floor, ceiling, walls.
12.		-	Top roller, symmetrical. It is used when using closed vertical profiles H.
13.		-	Upper roller, asymmetric. It is used when using open vertical profiles C. A set of two rollers is required for each sash.
14.		-	Support roller with an adjusting screw. A set of two rollers is required for each sash. The adjusting screw AB74 has a 6 mm socket head.
15.		-	Assembly screw AB75, with self-tapping working part. The head is for an internal hexagon 6 mm. One screw for each joint.
16.		-	Spring stopper. Optional element. Provides door fixation in the closed position.
17.		-	Silicone rubber gasket. It is laid along the perimeter of the door filling inserts. It differs in size - a seal is available for inserts of 4, 6 and 8 mm thickness. When using a filling with a thickness of 10 mm, the seal is not used.
18.		-	Schlegel is a self-adhesive strip made of plastic and lint. It is glued along the entire height of the door leaf from the end part - for this, a special groove is provided on the C and H profiles. The Schlegel softens the impact of the sash on the cabinet walls, and prevents dust from entering when the door is closed.

There are several more items that can be purchased at will - door closers, magnetic stoppers, locks, end caps for profiles, etc. But they do not directly affect the process of assembly and installation of wardrobe doors under consideration in any way.

The principle of assembling doors for a sliding wardrobe with the "Aristo" system

In the configuration of profiles and hardware elements of the Aristo system, everything is thought out, therefore, the installation of the door structure should not cause great difficulties.

A schematic diagram of the assembly of one door leaf with vertical profiles of type C is shown in the drawing. Hereinafter, the numbering of the profile and hardware elements is observed in full accordance with the detailing table above.

Profiles 3 and 4 are fixed to the ceiling (cabinet lid) and floor (cabinet base), respectively, and are stationary parts of the system.

Installation of the door leaf structure is carried out using assembly screws (pos. 15). # 14a shows the lower support roller adjusting screw.

The drawing does not show a variant of the central horizontal jumpers, if necessary. But their installation is fundamentally no different. They are either simply inserted without additional fixation (on the vertical posts from the inside there are special bumpers for precise centering), or they are fixed on the assembly screw according to the same principle as the upper crossbar of the door.

Below is an assembly drawing for an option using a vertical profile of type H.

There is no fundamental difference - it's just that a different, symmetrical type of upper rollers is used for these profiles. True, there will still be differences in the calculation of the dimensions and in the installation of the upper and lower guide profiles (runners).

Calculations of the dimensions of the doors for the wardrobe of the "Aristo" system

The assembly of the door will only turn out to be of high quality if thorough calculations, down to the millimeter, are carried out, and a very careful preparation of the parts will be made according to the dimensions obtained. No negligence, calculations "by eye" are not allowed - this will certainly lead not only to an inaccurate look, but also to distortions and even jamming of the door structure.

Calculations are carried out in the following sequence:

• The exact dimensions of the opening in which the door structure will be installed are determined.

The diagram shows the wall structures, the floor and the ceiling, but it can also be the walls of the mounted cabinet - the principle does not change from this.

Initial dimensions - the length and height of the opening in which the movable door structure will be installed

At the output, we have two values: the length of the opening - Lp and its height - Np, from which further countdown will go.

It is extremely important to pay attention to the fact that the upper and lower boundaries of the opening must be strictly horizontal along its entire length. If the deviation from the side walls from the vertical, although extremely undesirable, can still be somehow compensated for by decorative trim, then even small deviations from the horizontal will lead to looseness or jamming of the movable doors.

Often, in order to compensate for small irregularities in the floor and ceiling, and to facilitate the further fastening of the guide profiles, flat panels (strips), for example, made of chipboard, are mounted above and below along the entire length of the opening. In this case, the height of the opening is measured after the installation of such pads, or their thickness must be taken into account - subtracted from the total height of the opening.

• After measuring the opening, you can immediately get the height of the door structure, that is, the length of the required vertical handle profiles (1 or 2).

Regardless of the type of profile, it is always equal to

Нд = Нп - 40 mm

• Opening length Lp immediately gives the length of the profiles of the lower and upper guide (3 and 4).

There may be a nuance here. If you plan to install a frame from a straight or shaped stop (profiles 9 or 10), then the length of guides 3 and 4 will decrease by 3 mm (1.5 mm on each side due to the thickness of the frame).

Ld =Lp - 3 mm

The length of profiles 9 and 10 is always equal to the "net" height of the opening Np.

• The next question is the width of the door leaf.

This indicator depends on the total length of the opening and on the planned number of movable sashes, and on the used vertical profile-handle, and even on the presence or absence of a Schlegel.

With significant lengths of the opening, you should not chase the large width of the door leaves - they turn out to be too massive and not very convenient to use. On two-runner guides, it is quite possible to place two, three, four and even five leaves. Despite the fact that even 1500 mm is allowed, they usually try to adhere to the width of each within 750 ÷ 900 mm.

Initial value for calculating the sash width ( Lc) - opening length Lp and the planned number of flaps.

For calculations, the following ratios are used:

	Schlegel presence	Profile C	Profile H
2 sashes	- without schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 25) / 2	Lc = (Lp + 35) / 2
	- with schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 15) / 2	Lс = (Lп + 25) / 2
3 doors	- without schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 50) / 3	Lс = (Lп + 70) / 3
	- with schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 40) / 3	Lс = (Lп + 60) / 3
4 doors	- without schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 50) / 4	Lс = (Lп + 70) / 4
	- with schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 30) / 4	Lс = (Lп + 50) / 4
5 leaves	- without schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 100) / 5	Lс = (Lп + 140) / 5
	- with schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 90) / 5	Lс = (Lп + 130) / 5

In order not to get confused in the formulas, we suggest using the built-in calculator, which will quickly calculate the required sash width

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How to assemble a wardrobe yourself - a simple instruction with explanations

Have you decided to assemble a wardrobe, but do not know how to do it correctly? I offer a simple instruction for assembling cabinet furniture with explanations. As a result, you will be able to determine the appropriate furniture configuration and assemble it yourself.

Sequencing

When making a cabinet with your own hands, the sequence of actions is as follows:

• Measurements of the premises are carried out;
• A furniture project is being developed with an indication of the dimensions of the structure and an estimate is drawn up for the amount of materials and accessories;
• Materials are purchased and cut out, accessories are procured;
• The mounting base is being prepared;
• The furniture is being assembled.

Where to start assembling a wardrobe

Before proceeding with the assembly, you need to decide what kind of furniture is to be assembled. Conventionally, all sliding wardrobes can be divided into two types:

• Case... In such furniture, in addition to the front part, there are sidewalls, an upper and lower part and a back wall;
• Embedded... This type of furniture is assembled in a niche or along one of the walls in the gap between the two side walls.

Illustrations	Initial work and their description
	We measure the wall... If the corners and abutment of the floors are made at right angles, we measure the height and width of the wall. We measure the wall in width at the top and at the bottom. All measurements are carried out with an accuracy of 5 mm. When making measurements, we take into account the location of heating pipes and other communications that may require amendments to the scheme.
	Drawing development... Let's say we need the assembled cabinet to have three doors and have 3 inner sections and a row of open shelves on one side. We leave one compartment for long clothes on hangers. The second compartment in the center will be for shelves and drawers. The third compartment will be designed for small shelves and space for an ironing board.
	Budgeting and procurement of materials... We calculate the amount of materials with exact dimensions and order the required number of parts in specialized organizations. We calculate the amount of necessary fittings and immediately buy them. If you are assembling a cabinet for the first time, contact a furniture factory with your project, where a set of cabinet furniture will be made to order for you for self-assembly.

Preparation for the assembly of the wardrobe

To begin with, we prepare the space for installation, namely, we move the furniture and things in the room to the wall opposite to the place where the cabinet will be assembled. We lay a blanket on the floor or lay out cardboard. This is necessary so that it is convenient to work, and during installation, do not scratch the floor.

Determine the purpose of the panels

The panels in the kit are packaged in packages for a reason, but in strict sequence. Therefore, it is not recommended to change the arrangement of structural elements when checking the completeness.

If the cabinet components were made handicraft, without drawing up instructions, everything will be a little more complicated. You will have to figure out the sequence of the panels yourself.

We carefully inspect the panels included in the kit for the presence of an edge and technological holes. The end edge on the panels is directed to the front side, and by this indicator it is possible to determine the location of the structural elements. Again, the technological holes for the screws and dowels must match.

Rules for installing various hardware

The prefabricated furniture set comes with a bag with various fixings. You need to know how and for what purpose these parts are used.

Illustrations	Description of fasteners
	Euro screw (confirmation). These are screws of different sizes for hexagons and curly screwdrivers. A common property for all Euro screws is the wide thread pitch. For ease of installation, you can buy a milling cutter for a Euro screw, for drilling a hole with sweat in one pass.
	Shkant (hidden connection). For hidden connection, a wooden dowel (Ø 8 mm) and wood glue are used. Holes of the corresponding diameter are drilled in adjacent parts. The drilled surfaces are connected with a glued dowel.
	Shkant and confirmat... If the connection is loaded, hidden fasteners are used, plus Euro screws are screwed in. In this case, no glue is used and the connection is collapsible.
	Eccentric connection (minifixes and rafixes)... This category of semi-concealed fasteners provides high bond strength. For fastening, three elements are used, one of which is screwed into one plane, the other into another, and the connecting pin connects the previously installed elements to each other.
	Corners... Various corners are used as independent and as auxiliary connecting fixtures.

The order of assembly of the wardrobe

The sequence of actions when assembling the wardrobe is as follows:

• Assembling the box... The perimeter of the cabinet is assembled from the side walls, upper and lower parts;
• Rear wall fixing... A solid sheet of fiberboard is nailed to the back of the box;
• Installation of the enclosure filling... Inside the box, vertical partitions are installed with pre-fixed rails for drawers and fasteners for shelves;
• Door assembly... At this stage, the guides for the doors are installed and the doors are installed;
• Setting the filling... At the final stage, shelves, rods and other accessories are installed inside the almost finished furniture, thanks to which the functionality of the cabinet is ensured.

We collect the box and nail the back wall

The assembly of the cabinet box is carried out on the floor, so that the assembled structure is located with the wrong side up. When assembling the perimeter of the cabinet, make sure that all corners are 90 °. For this we use a square.

After the box is assembled, do not lift it, but once again check that it is 90 ° in all four corners. If the box is rectangular, we fill a sheet of fiberboard from its inside out.

Custom cabinetry sets include back wall pieces that need to be secured in place. We fasten the back wall with boot nails, which we drive into the end of the side walls along the perimeter of the box with a step of 10 cm.

Installation of additional elements

Additional elements mean filling, namely partitions, shelves and everything that will make the finished cabinet more functional and convenient from the point of view of everyday use.

First, vertical partitions are installed, which will not only divide the cabinet into functional areas, but also provide the structure with additional rigidity. After the partitions are installed, shelves, rods and other accessories are installed in accordance with the project.

Door system installation

The door system in sliding wardrobes consists of longitudinal rails that are horizontally attached at the top and bottom of the structure. Sliding doors are located between the guides. Taking into account the design features of the door system, the following requirements are imposed on its installation:

• The guides must be parallel to each other, otherwise the flaps will not be able to move;
• The upper guide profile must be fixed especially firmly, since it is this that will bear the bulk of the load.

Installing the guides

Before attaching the rail, make sure that the top and bottom edges of the cabinet are flush. As a result, the installed profiles should stand exactly one above the other. You can determine the correspondence of the levels using a plumb line.

We cut the profile according to the previously made measurements. In order for the cut to be even, we use a miter saw or a hacksaw for metal and a miter box.

In the profile, as shown in the diagram, we drill through holes with a pitch of 30 cm. We immediately expand the holes in the metal so that the screw head disappears into the profile and does not interfere. We fasten the profile with short Euro screws.

Mirror installation

The mirror door filling, cut to the required size, is laid on a flat base. An aluminum frame is assembled along the edges of the mirror. Before mounting the profile, a silicone damper is glued along the edge of the mirror. The profile along the edge of the frame is pushed in with effort and is fixed with a self-tapping screw along the edge to another profile.

Door installation

Doors are assembled according to the manufacturer's instructions. Then the upper edge of the doors is inserted into the upper profile. Further, the lower edge of the door leaf is installed with a roller into the lower profile. The installed sash moves to the stop and you can proceed with the installation of the next sash.

Door adjustment

The door leaf is adjusted in height. Adjusting screws are provided in the fittings for vertical adjustment.

To adjust, you need a 5 mm hexagon and a little patience, since you will have to adjust all the rollers by unscrewing the bolts one by one no more than half a turn at a time. As a result, the adjusted door leaf should stand up straight and move without jamming.

The nuances of assembling various types of cabinets

Illustrations	Description
	Wardrobe... There are no special requirements for the assembly of wardrobes. The main difference between the wardrobe is the appropriate content. That is, you need to provide special hangers and shelves. Of course, when assembling a wardrobe, you can't do without a mirror.
	Child... The sliding wardrobe in the children's room is distinguished by the safety of operation and design. For safety, we do not use glass in such furniture. In terms of design, the brighter it gets, the better.
	Sliding... These wardrobes are distinguished by sliding doors. Therefore, when choosing such furniture, be prepared to purchase the appropriate fittings. Nevertheless, such a cabinet is an ideal solution for rooms with limited space.
	Swing... This is a traditional wardrobe door arrangement. Therefore, when buying accessories, you can limit yourself to ordinary hinges.
	Angular... Corner wardrobes are more difficult to assemble than conventional straight configuration wardrobes. Basically, you will have to assemble two gusset cabinets.

Let's summarize

Now you know how to assemble the cabinet yourself. If you have any questions, you can ask them in the comments to the text.

To save money on assembling the wardrobe, without contacting specialists, you can do it yourself. In addition to all the details, the furniture set should contain instructions on how to assemble a 3-door sliding wardrobe, which will help to assemble the wardrobe correctly and quickly.

Required tools

Almost every cabinet model comes with the necessary bolts, nails and washers, but you need to prepare the tools yourself. To make a coupe, you need the following tools:

• Phillips screwdriver.
• Bit PZ2.
• Straight screwdriver.
• Screwdriver or drill.
• 4 mm drill bit for metal.
• Hammer.
• Level.
• Pliers.
• Stationery knife.
• Hex wrench.

And additional parts may also be required to assemble a 3-door wardrobe. For example, if the floors are uneven, the underlays must be prepared in advance. Confirmation and 6mm drills may be required depending on the model.

Assembly basics

There are standard rules for assembling a wardrobe:

1. Do not unpack all the parts at once, otherwise you can get confused and it will take a long time to find the necessary part.
2. It is necessary to carefully study the instructions on how to assemble a 3-door wardrobe before proceeding with the assembly.
3. Make sure all the accessories are in place and are the correct size and color.
4. The assembly is carried out in stages, starting from the bottom of the cabinet.
5. Mirrors and glasses are installed last.
6. The space for the cabinet must be precisely sized and free of openings or other obstructions during installation.

An example of an assembly using the example of a Basya sliding-door wardrobe:

Assembly stages

First of all, the frame is assembled. It is necessary to connect the frame elements. To do this, you need to insert the chopiks into the prepared holes and screw the confirmations into them, with the help of which the frame is fixed. It is more convenient to connect the cabinet parts when lying down. It is worth starting from the bottom shelf, so to speak, the bottom of the cabinet.

After the frame is ready, we proceed to placing the partitions of the three-door cabinet. It is very easy to decide where the top is in the partitions and where the bottom is, since holes for dowels are provided in the lower part of the partition. On the bottom shelf (the bottom of the cabinet), blind holes are also provided, into which the dowels are inserted, and only then we install partitions on them. It is worth noting that initially it is not worth fixing the confirmations to the end, it is necessary to leave a free run.

To betray the structure of rigidity and protect it from loosening, it is necessary to install. The wall must be reinforced with the laminated side outward. The wall is fastened with small studs, which are driven in around the entire perimeter of the cabinet.

For each shelf, special holes are prepared in which it is necessary to install corners or other fasteners provided in the kit and it is on them that you need to install at the shelf. produced using corners or on confirmations.

After that, you can install the cabinet. It is important to align the structure and only after that it is necessary to tighten all fasteners to the end. In order for the doors to open freely during operation of the cabinet and not jam, it is necessary to level it with a level. After that, it is necessary to install the guide rails for the cabinet doors. Using a screwdriver, holes are made for fasteners along the entire perimeter of the rails. The holes must be chamfered for flush screwing in and 4 holes must be made for each plank. The first one needs to be fixed to the bottom rail.

For the top rail it is necessary to make staggered holes in both planks. For fastening the strips, the wardrobe includes screws. The distance from the front end of the top cover to the beginning of the rail edge must be at least 3 mm.

The next step is to install the rods and fittings inside the cabinet. First of all, we mark the attachment points for the holders, drill holes and tighten the screws. It is important to install the rod mounts correctly to keep them level. Whether the mounts are correctly installed or not, you can check with a level.

The final step is to install the doors. Doors must be installed from the top, for which we insert doors into the upper rails, and then the end rollers are placed in the groove of the lower rail. Thus, all 3 doors are inserted in order, the main thing is not to confuse the front and inner sides.

Updating your wardrobe every season, you suddenly notice that there is simply nowhere to put new things. Throwing away good quality clothes, but bought last season, does not raise a hand. You can solve the problem by assembling a wardrobe with your own hands.

Comfortable and roomy designs will collect the things of all family members, while occupying a very small space in the room. Basically, this is a place that is little used and not very convenient for placing other pieces of furniture.

Design options

If you want to install a wardrobe in an apartment or house, you need to make accurate measurements of the proposed installation site for a piece of furniture and place an order with a company that manufactures wardrobes. The second option would be to measure the installation site, self-design the structure, order the sawing of parts and install the wardrobe.

You have a choice - recessed structures, corner cabinets and models of individual walk-throughs. When you decide on the choice, you can start assembling it yourself.

The types of wardrobes differ in design. If you have never assembled furniture, it is better to start with a walk-through model. This versatile model can be installed in almost any room.

In many apartment projects, the entrance hall was made small in size in the shape of a rectangle. If you put an ordinary wardrobe with a swing door, there is absolutely no room left. A sliding wardrobe with a sliding door has become a real salvation. Its height mainly goes up to the ceiling, which maximizes the use of the area. Mirrored door leaves visually increase the space.

Materials (edit)

Even the most fastidious customer will be able to find on the market the color and shade of laminated chipboard he needs, most often used for self-assembly of a wardrobe. Hardboard is used for the back wall. The choice of accessories in stores practically has no boundaries - from the simplest to the most sophisticated bizarre shapes. The door leaf can be made to order from any material.

For cabinets, 16 mm thick laminated chipboard sheets are used. On the market, sheets are sold with a height of 2450 or 2750 mm and a width of 1830 mm. If you want to save money by reducing material waste, consider these dimensions when designing a wardrobe.

Let's take a closer look at the option of assembling a wardrobe with a height of 2450 mm, a width of 2400 and a depth of 650 mm.

In addition to chipboard sheets, we need a melamine self-adhesive edge. To assemble the cabinet of the design shown in the picture, we need details:

• Two sidewalls measuring 2433x650 mm.
• The bottom is 2367x650 mm in size.
• The lid of the cabinet is 2400x650 mm.
• Large shelf - 2367x550 mm.
• Seven small shelves - 778x550 mm.
• Two partitions - 1917x550 mm.
• Rear and front plinths - 2367x100 mm.
• The side parts of the base / plinth box in the amount of 3 pcs. and a size of 550x100 mm.
• Two edges of the basement box measuring 1159x100 mm.

Details of the back wall made of hardboard:

• Wide piece for two compartments - 1940x1595 mm.
• Narrow part for one compartment - 1940x800 mm.
• Detail for the upper part of the cabinet - 2395x410 mm.

It is better to order the sawing of parts of the future sliding wardrobe at the cutting service, which is a must at any construction supermarket. Show the experts your cabinet design and accurate measurements. In our case, there is already detailing and it is better to show it to the cutting masters.

You can make your own wardrobe door system, but is it necessary? If you are planning on assembling not one but several cabinets, this can be beneficial. Doors for one wardrobe will cost you much more than ordered sliding doors from a company that manufactures, supplies and assembles sliding facades.

You need to visit the office of the company and place an order, indicating the exact dimensions of the clean opening and the number of canvases. For our cabinet, the net size of the front is 2317 mm high and 2367 mm wide. We need to make two sashes of the same color as the purchased laminated chipboard and one mirror sash. There must be a seal, stoppers, guides. In general, the entire set required for high-quality operation of the sliding facade system.

Everything regarding the facade has already been ordered, but for the interior decoration of the cabinet, you need to purchase furniture fittings. For our project you need to buy:

• For fixing hardboard screws or nails.
• In the middle compartment of the cabinet, to adjust the height of the shelves, you need shelf racks.
• Confirmations of sizes 70x5 mm.
• Rod holders.
• Self-tapping screws measuring 16x4 mm.
• Two rods for 775 mm hangers.

When the finished parts are delivered, you can start preparing them for assembly. You need an iron to work. Gently attach the acquired edge to the end of the part so that the beautiful side is on top. Carefully walk over it with a heated iron. Make sure the steam is not turned on on the iron.

Press the heated edge well and wipe it thoroughly. Carefully sand the cut edges with sandpaper. There is no need to rush to prepare the parts. Try to achieve the maximum quality of work so that your wardrobe looks neat and beautiful.

From the base / plinth parts, assemble the base of the podium for the bottom of the cabinet. The base must be required.

Assembly

To assemble the cabinet you will need:

• Pencil and rectangle.
• Drill and drills 5 and 8 mm.
• Roulette.

Instructions:

1. Purchased confirmations are used to assemble parts into one whole structure. First, we look at our project and mark the attachment points.
2. When all the details are marked with markings, we proceed to the drilling process. For holes in the plane, use a drill with a diameter of 8 mm. The hole must be through. The depth of the hole at the ends is not more than 60 mm, and the diameter is 5 mm. We make holes at several levels in the places where the shelf supports are installed. When the cabinet is ready, you can safely move your shelves to the desired level.
3. To assemble the structure, you will need the help of one person. The work will go faster and the build quality will be better. We connect all the details of the cabinet and install it in place. We expose the cabinet exactly using a level.
4. Now you can start installing the facade. We fasten the upper guides along the edge of the cabinet lid. We retreat from the edge of the cabinet bottom by a maximum of 10 mm and fix the lower guides. Before tightening the screws, insert the stoppers into the roller track.
5. Now you can put the facade back in place with two people. One person sets the upper part of the facade into the guide, and the other sets the wheels in the desired track. A hex key is used to adjust the front. The adjusting screws are located at the bottom of the front end face. Raising or lowering the lower roller, we set the facade to the desired position.

When the wardrobe is loaded with things, the adjustment will need to be repeated. So the work on the installation of the wardrobe was completed. Now you can proudly consider yourself a master and try to assemble a more complex structure. We already have experience, which means that the assembly will be much faster and better.

Video: assembling a wardrobe

We offer you to watch a video on assembling the wardrobe.

Do-it-yourself sliding wardrobes photo

Home furnishing is the final step that brings together all the renovation and design stages. Modern furniture should combine several essential qualities: operational functionality, appearance as such, compliance with the general design idea.

Coupe systems or their elements are present in almost every home. The convenience and functionality of this furniture are indisputable, and for such design styles as minimalism, urban, high-tech, they are completely irreplaceable. The article provides comprehensive recommendations for self-manufacturing of a sliding wardrobe.

Advantages

Having considered the pros and cons of this class of furniture, we will get a complete picture of the modern concept of a wardrobe with a sliding door opening system.

Advantages
Ergonomics	Standard designs require blind zones for opening. In coupe systems, when opening and closing, the doors move in the same plane along the guides. The area of ​​the room is significantly saved.
Spaciousness	The ability to arbitrarily configure the internal space (filling), which determines the spaciousness. The only requirement is ergonomic feasibility.
Versatility	Fits into any interior. Various designs and finishes allow you to install the wardrobe in the bedroom, kitchen, living room, etc.
Functionality	Inside, unlike ordinary cabinets, you can store large items, household appliances. Build in various devices - ironing board, workbench, table top, etc.
Ideal for tight spaces	For narrow aisles and corridors, a wardrobe is often the only solution. Only it can be placed in such places and operated comfortably.
Zoning	Dual functionality. Using such furniture, you can easily zone a room, that is, it can also perform the function of a partition.
Variety of designs	No restrictions on internal content. A large number of materials for the manufacture of facades, which allows you to embody any design idea.
Using a mirror	A mirror can be installed on the facade. This will improve the functionality of the room and visually expand the space.
Operational reliability	Doors moving along guides will last much longer than hinged doors.

There are much fewer disadvantages, but they are:

disadvantages
Failure of the sliding system	Occurs only in case of purchasing a low-quality sliding system.
The need for additional lighting	If the dimensions are large, additional light will be required, which significantly increases operational comfort.
The need to clean the guides	Over time, the bottom rails become clogged, which can interfere with the movement of the roller. Therefore, sometimes it is necessary to clean the grooves of the guides.
The mirror gets dirty quickly	If a mirror is used in the decoration, then it will often have to be washed from stains and marks of hands.
No rearrangement possible	When designing, the dimensions are related to the specific location of the cabinet. Not suitable for frequent rearrangement lovers.

Varieties in shape

There are several varieties, they have structural and external differences:

• built-in;
• freestanding;
• corner;
• diagonal angular.

Let's consider each of them separately.

Built in

When constructing such a cabinet, there is no top, back wall and base. Only partitions are made. The entire structure is screwed directly to the ceiling, walls and floor. Metal corners are used as fixation.

It is a stationary structure, and it is an invariable part of the created interior.

Standing separately

Has sidewalls, top, bottom, back and sliding doors. It is a complete separate piece of furniture. Its movement is possible, it is not attached to any design elements.

Angular

An excellent solution for small apartments where every meter is expensive. Follows the shape of the corner and allows you to efficiently use the space of the room.

Diagonal Angle

This is a kind of corner, but the facade does not follow the shape of the corner, but is made diagonal. The increased capacity of this design determines its frequent use as a dressing room.

Material used

Furniture with a sliding door system is made from a variety of materials. The table shows the main ones:

Material
	The most widespread and frequently used one. The chipboard plate, having a low price, is distinguished by sufficient strength. A huge selection of textures, colors, patterns allows you to make the front part for any design decisions. There is one, but significant, drawback - it is difficult to fine-tune it. For this reason, mainly simple structures are made from chipboard or chipboard.
	Eco-friendly material, easy to process. The variety of facade coatings is not less than that of chipboard. Practical and affordable material.
	An expensive option, but natural wood will last a long time. A great decoration in any interior.

Types by design

The classification by design differences is as follows:

1. built-in;
2. case.

Built-in ... There is no need for top, bottom and side parts. Their function is performed by the walls, floor and ceiling of the niche. For manufacturing, drywall can be used, which will reduce the overall cost of the product.

Hull ... The main difference from a conventional wardrobe is the door opening method. You can move it if necessary. Transportation (moving) without disassembly is possible. The downside is the increased consumption of materials, since the side, bottom and top walls, and the rear part are manufactured.

Now let's take a closer look at the organization of the internal volume of the cabinet.

Design features

When designing, one should take into account the ergonomic and operational specifics.

Consider the main structural elements of the wardrobe.

Door width

The choice of door size depends on factors:

• manufacturers of sliding systems are limited to certain sizes. Some systems allow the manufacture of a sash up to 120 cm wide;
• the width is influenced by the number of inner sections. Each section must be freely accessible;
• the choice is influenced by personal preference. There are no special rules, if this does not go beyond the restrictions listed above.

The optimal width, proven in practice, is from 600 to 900 mm. This size provides the most comfortable conditions for use.

Sliding systems

Sliding systems are classified according to two main criteria:

1. profile material;
2. the principle of expansion.

For the manufacture of the profile of the movable system, aluminum or steel is used. The material of the sliding system is chosen, as a rule, the same as that used for the door frame. Steel structures are cheaper, but in most cases aluminum is preferred.

Structurally, there are two types of systems - bottom support and top-hung. In the lower support - the door with rollers moves along the rail. In the top-hung one - its rollers move along the top guides.

Height

Any height is chosen. The only limitation may be the ceilings or the small height of the owners of the apartment / house. Structures are made both from ceiling to floor, and of lower height.

The standard length of the material used for the walls is 270 cm. A standard apartment has a ceiling height of 260–270 cm. Almost the same dimensions allow you not to cut or build up structural elements.

For ceilings above 270 mm (if you wish to have a floor-to-ceiling cabinet), there are two solutions. First, the sheets of material are joined to the required length. Second, the mezzanine is being assembled. Sheets can be joined using high-precision equipment of companies specializing in such services.

Shelf depth

The depth of the shelves determines the daily usability of the cabinet. The optimal and recommended indicator is 60–70 cm. Usually, a bar for hangers is placed in the closet, the width of which is about 48 cm. A depth of 60 cm will completely exclude contact between the inner surface of the door and clothes hung on the hangers. Most furniture accessories (boxes, trays, etc.) have a width of 50 cm. You should not make the shelves deeper, since it will be inconvenient to get "under the wall" when placing things.

The dimensions of the premises do not always allow installing furniture with the maximum recommended shelf depth. But there are also limitations on the minimum depth. The best option may be a depth of 40 cm.Taking into account that 10 cm goes under the sliding door mechanism, you can purchase small hangers 30 cm wide.Only, installation of a hanging rod (rods) perpendicular to the doors and the rear wall, in this case, the width of the placed hangers not limited.

Such a solution is much better than completely abandoning the installation of a cabinet, especially since even such a "narrow" design for small apartments is an ideal solution.

Length

When designing, the length of the cabinet is chosen in accordance with the place of its further installation.

Height of shelves and rods

The height between the shelves is 250–350 mm. The selection rule is simple: the greater the depth of the shelves - the greater the distance between them, the smaller the depth - the distance is less. This dependence is associated with the convenience of access to the stacks of linen located in the depths of the shelf (at the back wall).

When designing a mezzanine, one should take into account the size of things to be stored on it. If these are suitcases, then the height of the mezzanine should be equal to the height of the suitcase, plus a small margin.

The mounting height of the hanger bar is determined by the length of the clothes placed on it. The maximum height will be equal to the longest item. Average length of typical wardrobe items:

• shirts - up to 100 cm;
• jackets - up to 110 cm;
• long clothes - up to 130 cm;
• raincoats and fur coats - up to 150 cm.

These calculations are approximate, since the length of the clothes depends on the height, style and other parameters.

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Schemes and drawings

The diagrams show various options for projects and furniture assembly technologies:

Device inside

When designing the filling of the wardrobe, first of all, zoning of the internal space is done. The figure shows a universal scheme for dividing various things into storage areas:

When buying a finished product, you will have to agree with the filling configuration proposed by the manufacturer. Self-production will allow to maximally take into account the size, functionality, location of various zones and much more, which, ultimately, will provide maximum operational comfort.

Below is a table with examples of frequently used elements of internal filling and zoning of the wardrobe with their help.

Zoning
	Shelves are one of the main filling elements. They can be stationary and retractable, solid and ventilated, half and full depth, etc.
	Drawers are the second most important cabinet element.
	Suspension bar - necessary for clothes on hangers. The material of manufacture is different, more often metal.
	Convenient storage baskets. All things are clearly visible in them, which creates a certain convenience.
	This device is called the trouser. Pants are always ironed and ready to be worn.
	A bar (hanger) for storing ties - it is convenient to choose, it does not wrinkle, the correct suspension protects from changing the shape.
	Convenient placement of belts, alternatively storage on a shelf in rolls.
	Compact and convenient storage for underwear.
	Placing bed linen, towels, some clothes in piles on the shelves.
	For storing blouses, light blazers, short sundresses, a significant part of the internal volume is allocated. A pipe with shoulders is installed in the opening. You can make several of these sections - for short and long items.
	Section for accessories - bracelets, watches, glasses, etc. It is recommended to store these items in drawers. Inside, the space can be divided into separate cells.
	Shelves for storing shoes. In the upper (mezzanine) part, you can place shoes in boxes.
	Hooks, hangers, carabiners, rings and other accessories for bags.
Hiking suitcases	Place suitcases that are rarely used (once a year while on vacation) on the far (upper) shelves or mezzanine.
	One of the options for bed linen. Shelf width up to 80 cm, height up to 60 cm.

Characteristics of the main filling elements:

• pull-out and stationary shelves. For convenient use, the distance between them is from 350 to 450 mm;
• drawers. Two types - fully retractable (100%), partially retractable (80%). They can be equipped with door closers providing smooth semi-automatic closing of the box;
• mezzanines, known as hard-to-reach shelves. Located at the top. They store rarely used and large things;
• barbells are required for the hanger. They are mounted to the width of the cabinet;
• pantographs or special "furniture lifts". Thanks to them, clothes are kept at the required level and easily pulled out with a special bar. They are electrical or mechanical;
• baskets are convenient for storing small items. Equipped with rollers and guides.

Facades

The interior filling, thought out to the smallest detail, will sharply discord with the unsuccessfully chosen facades. It is the facades that give the entire cabinet a special finished look. Let's consider several options for their implementation.

Mirrored

The mirror visually enlarges the space and makes the room brighter. It can be whole or divided into several parts. The large weight of the mirror determines the need to select high-quality and reliable rollers. Such a facade creates additional hassle for maintenance - the mirror gets dirty quickly. It will have to be wiped and washed regularly, especially if the family has small children.

For facade mirrors, a variety of finishes are used - sandblasting patterns and drawings, dusting of all kinds of shades (silver, emerald, gold, etc.) for glass, printing color images and much more. For safety reasons, the mirror is covered with an anti-shock (armored) film on the inside. If the mirror breaks, the debris will not fly apart.

Glass

Glass is no less popular than a mirror; the facades are equipped with an unbreakable one. Frosted glass with a pattern is mainly used. Vertical, horizontal stripes look original, dividing the canvas into separate squares.

MDF and chipboard

These materials are laminated with foil. The facades look massive and heavy. You will need reliable roller systems to install them. One of the advantages is a huge selection of colors, shades and patterns, in texture - from matte to bright glossy.

Photo printing can be applied to MDF and chipboard facades.

These are the main types of facades used in the manufacture of sliding wardrobes. You can combine them with each other. This article contains photographs with a considerable number of original ideas for the manufacture of facades.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Bonding edge tape

After cutting all the elements, the edge tape is glued to the ends of the board. The sequence of operations performed:

Instructions for gluing the edge to the end face of the workpieces
	If there is no assistant, you can use a simple trick. You will need a small box and a quick-clamping clamp. The clamp presses the board against the box, ensuring the stability of the workpiece and the convenience of gluing the edging tape.
	One side of the edge band has an adhesive surface. When heated to a high temperature, it can be easily glued to the workpiece.
	Cut the hem to the required length. Leave a margin of 1 cm around the edges. You can cut it off after gluing with ordinary scissors.
	For gluing, set the position of the temperature sensor of the iron to "2".
	For safety reasons, wear two gloves on your left hand. There should be no pellets in the palm of your hand.
	Run the iron along the edge band and hold it with your left hand (even).
	We run the iron in the opposite direction, at the same time with a gloved hand, firmly press (smooth) the edging tape.
	Smooth the edge with your hand a few more times.
	Application of a special roller. Glue the edging tape with an iron and then roll it with a roller. Very comfortably.
	The cooled tape, carefully cut off the remnants from the end with a sharp knife.
	We get such a cut.
	We repeat the procedure for all ends of the workpiece. We measure the tape with a margin of 1 centimeter, from each edge.
	We glue it with an iron and smooth it.
	Cut off the cooled edge. The edge is already glued on the adjacent edge, we make the cut very carefully.
	Cut off the longitudinal remnants of the protruding edge from all sides.
	Result. We glue the ends of the remaining blanks with an edge tape.
	All sections are sanded with a special bar. The inner part is filled with foam rubber, and the outside is filled with fine-grained abrasive.
	Grinding of the sections is done only with longitudinal movements.

The processing of the main elements is carried out in the same way.

Assembly

The details are cut according to the project. This operation is best done in a workshop on a special formatting machine. After cutting and gluing the edges, we assemble the cabinet:

Frame assembly instructions
	For work, you will need to assemble an additional device consisting of a metal strip and two pieces of boards connected by an angle. It turns out a corner with a metal guide. You also need two quick-clamping clamps. With this device it is very convenient to connect workpieces at right angles.
	We do a square check - it should be 90˚.
	Set aside 70 mm from the top edge.
	In the example, a 16 mm plate is used, therefore, it is necessary to step back 9 mm from the edge. Why not 8 mm? Because the slab protrudes 1 mm beyond the edge, forming a small side. The middle of the end of the adjoining slab is at a distance of 9 mm.
	Drilling mark.
	A similar mark is placed below.
	Using a drill, we make holes for the fasteners.
	A special drill replaces three at once. It allows you to make a main hole, a collar and a chamfer in one operation.
	Drilling.
	We tighten the confirmation with a screwdriver.
	Having secured the sidewall, according to the project, we mark the installation locations of the shelves.
	Next, using a square, we put marks on both sides under the holes for attaching the shelves.
	Marks along which holes for confirmations will be drilled.
	The device assembled at the beginning of work is convenient to use for attaching shelves. We measure with a tape measure 1/2 of the plate thickness. The thickness of the slab is 16 mm, so we retreat from the mark by 8 mm.
	At this level, we install the shelf using quick-clamping clamps.
	It is clearly seen here that the mark is in the middle of the end of the workpiece. Everything is ready for drilling.
	We drill.
	We twist the confirmations.
	Install the remaining shelves in the same way.
	Install the cross member. And we fasten each shelf with confirmations.
	Having fixed the cross member with a quick-clamping clamp, we twist it with confirmations from above and below, after which we fix each shelf.
	This is how the lower part of the wardrobe is assembled. We clamp the strip from the plate with a clamp and fix it with a confirmation from the end.
	From below we drill shallow holes for installing furniture legs.
	We twist a metal sleeve with an external and internal thread.
	Using the hexagon, we tighten (recessed) to the required position.
	We twist a leg with a plastic support into the sleeve. Thanks to this, the furniture can be moved and leveled.
	Two pieces of support leg assembly.
	After assembling the cabinet, a fiberboard sheet is attached to its back with ordinary nails.
	We start fixing the fiberboard from the top. Tilting the cabinet from side to side, we achieve a 90˚ angle between the sidewall and the top bar. We nail the side and bottom sides of the fiberboard sheet.
	During the assembly, no such plastic furniture corners were used. Why? The use of a confirmatum is much more practical, since it is screwed into the plate by a few centimeters and reliably connects the structure, giving it additional rigidity.
	We close the caps of the confirmations with a decorative plug.

In the same operating sequence, you can assemble a sliding wardrobe of any configuration.

Video:

Manufacturing of doors

The door consists of a frame, metal guides and a roller system. It is worth ordering it in a company that professionally deals with such systems. Specialized software for the given dimensions will calculate all the elements and issue a complete specification for the assembly. Mirrors or plates from other materials are cut to the size of the doors for fastening to frames.

Elements for a sliding system
	Vertical uprights / handles for door side sections.
	Sealing rubber for the mirror.
	Self-adhesive brush to soften the impact of doors when opening / closing them.
	Brackets for fixing doors in extreme positions.

The main parts for door assembly are made of aluminum. All metal components must be covered with a protective film that protects them from scratches during transportation.

Assembling the sliding system

Consider the step-by-step assembly of the door leaf. In our example, there will be two flaps from the mirror.

Ready-made wardrobe

Door assembly instructions
	The door is located in a horizontal position and provides free access from all sides.
	In the upper part of the vertical post, which simultaneously serves as a door handle, we drill two mounting holes.
	The lower one is 6.5 mm in diameter.
	The top hole is 10 mm. Through it, the upper door profile and roller will be attached.
	The lower part of the same vertical profile. The top hole is 10 mm, the bottom hole is 6.5 mm. The distance from the edge of the first hole is 7 mm, the second is 43 mm. The lower roller will be attached closer to the edge. The second hole is for the screw connecting to the profile.
Profile installation	From above we fix the rubber seal with a profile, carefully inserting it.
	The procedure is performed sequentially on all faces. We do not cut the rubber seal at the corner, but continuously lay it around the entire perimeter.
Should not be tightened completely	This screw is not fully tightened. Later, the upper rollers will be installed in it.
	Install the upper rollers and tighten the screw until it stops.
	Rubber seal installed at the bottom of the door.
The screw with the upper roller is also tightened.	At the top, we fix the second pair of rollers.
	Install the lower roller. We squeeze the spring on the roller and carefully insert it into the hole, fasten it with a screw.
	The screw is tightened with a hexagon.	Cabinet with the first door installed.
	In the same sequence, we collect and mount the second door.

Additionally, we install auxiliary elements - a pipe for hangers, etc.

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In the end it should look like this

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the diagrams and drawings. They will help you create your own project.

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